Well I launched YT for a totally different topic and then found myself watching this. Not my hobby or business but I found it very interesting, informative and well presented. Well done and thank you.🎉
WONDERFUL VIDEO! I know nothing about ceramics. I came to UA-cam to find a video that showed what I had just read about in an article on deflocculation, rheology, & thixotropy. Your video did a great job of showing the things I didn't understand because of my lack of familiarity with ceramics! My background in chemistry could only help me understand so much before watching your video. Thank you!
I am a DIY guy, and currently I have an antique automobile. A broken part on my transmission has forced me into learning a lot of this stuff, because I have to make my own part on my car transmission. Yesterday I attempted to make a mold using petrobond on my aluminum part. I learned very quickly that petrobond sticks to the aluminum Park that I'm trying to make a mold of. I spent all my money this month on my fixed income, on everything I need to do this, LOL oh, now I have to wait until the 3rd of next month to continue lol again. Nonetheless... ... learning what I am watching in this video is the Avenue in which I need to take next month when I resume my task... ... this is an absolute wonderful video teaching me how to make this part using ceramics. Thank you very much for your Productions, I have subscribed and will continue to watch all your videos thank you very much!
Hello, Great video, I just subscribed. Please tell me where I can have a mold made? I want to have an Egg pitcher mold made, size 34" x 45". Any Idea on cost for a mold that size? Thank You!
That's huge! I'm guessing from your spelling of "mold" you are in the USA, in which case I doubt I'd be much help over in the UK. I could offer a couple of videos shwoing you how to do it yourself though.. check this channel..
@@HobbyCeramicraft Correct, I'm in the US. 34 inches x 45 inches would be 88 cm x 114 cm, wouldn't call it huge. Sure, I'd grealy appreciate the channel you mentioned in your comment. If you could please post the link, thank you!
I grew up watching my grandparents do this. They owned a ceramics shop. Sadly grandpa passed away and now the business is for sale. I contemplate buying it just to keep it alive.
We've been in this industry for a literal lifetime and I feel there will always be a demand for this sort of creative enterprise.. just adapt it to the changing market and demographic of your area.. its a great industry to be part of!
I like to do that when the clay is leather hard. If you leave until dry then you will make a bit of dust, so do when the item is still a bit damp and the clay flecks will drop off in chunks.
Thank you for this demo. I have a chance to buy 300 molds but I know nothing about how do use the molds. This has been very helpful. next I need to know the next stage. will check back later for more videos. I think we have a Pottery club in my area so I.m wondering if I do go ahead making these if I can get them fired at the pottery club. Lots of things to suss out before making the commitment. thx again.
I'm new to the ceramics world, my mom and I got lucky and bought a ton of molds and a kiln as well as paints and I believe pre-mixed slip? It came in jugs, and so I am a bit concerned for creating a proper consistency. I don't have a fancy mixer set up, is there a way to mix slip by hand and then determine if it's appropriate consistency for use within the molds? I don't imagine the jugs of clay and water will have gone bad, it's just clay and water after all, but I do imagine we will have to spend some time on properly mixing it and playing around with pouring it into the molds by hand as well as experimenting with how long each mold takes to set. I believe all our molds are plaster, and I anticipated that they'd take days to set so learning it could be on a timeline more so of hours was quite the shock. I have no idea how low to let the slip go for most of them, and the fellow who sold it to us never quite hammered out the specifics himself. We also have no idea what the type of clay in mixture was used, but I hate to let so many jugs go to waste so we'll use them to practice before making better pieces. Thank you for your video! It has been very helpful.
Sorry for the late reply, hopefully you have experimented and worked out how to get started. Don't worry if you mess up a bit, all of the bad castings can be reclaimed and made back into new slip to try again..
Thanks for your previous reply Can I ask, what is the most plaster mould pieces youve ever made? I heard for the Maquette example made for 2005 King king film (kong battling the dinosaur) it took 50 mould portions, BUT I don't understand how anyone can join curved plaster portions even when using keys/locks, without them falling over
It's not sensible to have a mold with too many pieces, as that makes it a puzzle to assemble and strap together, and every join will make a raised line on the piece that needs to be cleaned off. Better in my opinion is to make a mold simple that has fewer parts to it, and if the shape is complicated, make separate molds and join them together after casting.
Toilet.. sorry, no.. maybe contract a commercial producer and ask for an old mould. BTW, try painting a new toilet with glazes on top of the already glazed surface for a fun activity. Fire slowly though.. there's a lot of mass in that shape and needs even heating... (We've made a few.. cracked a few in firing them too!)
Well it depends on the slip. If you were casting with a strong high temperature clay like porcelain then you could go quite thin, maybe 3mm, but if you are using earthenware slip, I'd head for around 4-5mm. The larger the item the thicker you'll want it as a thin piece will struggle to hold its own weight when wet.
I want to make a fine china serving bowl, what slip do you recommend I use? I want to be able to put food in it to serve at the dinner table. Thank you
Slip is heavy and can be costly to ship, so it can be a good idea to find a supplier that is local to you so you can collect. Look for a high temperature casting slip, stoneware is forgiving to cast with (in my experience) Porcelain can be tricky.. but when it works definitely worth it!
I am quite new to a slip casting technique. Have made several plaster molds for casting porcelain. And had some success, but recently I have noticed that some of the greenware gets tiny pinholes and then, (because some cups doesnt have it) there are SOMETIMES also pinholes on the glaze. If i got it right, those tiny pinholes are the result of air bubbles or pieces of dust in the casting slip, right? But i wonder, do those pinholes influence the glaze? I am a bit confused, because some of the porcelain cups are not having those pinholes on the glaze and some do have. it fires hire than it should and moreover fires unevenly. pinholes on the greenware? I'm using the vacuum matching,but my slip viscosity 1200
Nice demonstration and very well explained! I have one question about the mold: it has to be made of plaster? Or it can be made with ceramic? I'm thinking of making a mug and i was wondering if i could use a ceramic pot i have for the mold with no glazing. Thank you!
To make a casting mould you really need to use plaster in order to absorb the water from the clay which creates a clay lining. Ceramic would not work in the same way.
This is a really interesting method of combining a traditional material and modern technology. It's made me think - could something like clay (or liquid chalk, plus some aggregate) be used to build a house wall, using a similar methodology as a concrete pour?
When you order your specific bag of slip, ask them for directions. You will likely also need sodium silicate, sodium ash and barium carbonate. (And water)
Hello! I have multiple ceramic mold like the one on your video. What I would like to know is if we use quickrete or mortar in these molds, will it come out and the mold be reusable?
Awesome vid thanks so much @hobbyCeramicraft - this huge contraption you're emptying your slip in, poring back slip and that pump thingy to fill up molds. What is it call? I would definitely like to invest in one down the line xx
You just need to be respectful that you may not have the rights to make a mold of a pre-existing mold. There are videos on here showing you how to make a casting mold.
Then you are good to go. Castthick with slip and mold away. Or if you are feeling extravagant, you could cast with a rubber or latex to get the original form, then separate onto the plaster and get molding.
Thank you, very informative. How do you know if your slip is too thick? I'm using Chromartie 1075 White Earthenware, with a small, baby's shoe mould. After only about 5 mins the slip is too thick to pour out. Should I thin it somehow?
@@HobbyCeramicraftThanks for the reply. No idea about specific gravity- there's no info on the slip container label other than that above.(Ive had it about 8/9 months). Even if it said what is was supposed to be I'd have no idea how to measure it. let alone where to get de-flocculant.....
Watch our video "Reclaim waste clay into casting slip for ceramic production" for a lesson on specific gravity. If you are unsure what the s.g. of your slip should be, 1.8 is a decent start. Deflocculant, like Sodium silicate we sell.
You want a strong plaster blend which is both absorbant but also stong enough to retain detail. There are many different blends of plaster available, contact a specialist supplier in your area and have a chat with them, as there will be quite a difference in mould efficiency dependant on the plaster used... and also the ratio of the plaster mix too..
There is another video we made explaining this. You'll need to work out the specific gravity required for the slip you are using and get hold of some deflocculant, like sodium silicate.
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation: 00:03 🏺 To cast ceramic shapes, use liquid clay (slip) and plaster molds. 00:28 💧 Ensure the slip consistency is right; not too wet or too thick. 02:30 🚰 Be patient with slip flow; it thickens as it's mixed. 05:38 🏺 You can cast ceramics at home with basic tools like a jug. 06:19 🧰 Rubber bands can be used as mold straps. 07:50 ⏲️ The time to let molds set varies; monitor the slip level. 08:30 🌧️ Setting time depends on factors like mold dampness and previous casts. 10:04 🛡️ Thickness of the piece's clay film inside the mold matters for durability. 13:38 🧱 After casting, let the pieces dry; drying time varies with size. 22:33 🎨 Glaze-fired ceramics show hot spots if slip wasn't moved during casting. 25:08 🔥 Firing temperature depends on the clay used; bisque firing is around 1020°C. 26:35 🧽 Proper slip preparation is crucial for successful casting. Made with HARPA AI
Hello! How do you make a mold of a vintage lighted ceramic Christmas tree without damaging the original tree? Can it be done with silicone? I can't find any tutorials online. Thank you.
It would be possible, but quite an undertaking. You'd have to make the mould in sections, using strong plaster and bedding the original in clay. Even after all that, you would likely not get a great detail as the original would have a coating of glaze which would smooth over sharp details. I would suggest it would be a lot easier to source a ready made mould or a replacement bisque item.
If the slip sticks to your finger, it is too wet to open the mold. Also, if the mold doesn't want to open... don't force it as its a sign the slip is still to wet and you will rip the cast.
Are the molds made of plaster of Paris? If not what is it made of? Trying to determine how to cast a mold to remake an old 60s Duncan chess board piece (can't find a mold anywhere for my board, hopeful i can make one and cast it myself)
No, there are many different types and grades of plaster available for all sorts of applications, we use one which is both strong to retain detail, but also absorbant to develop a skin of clay inside the mould without excessive ware. You should contact a plaster seller or craft supplies outlet local to you and ask for a plaster that would suit.
is it true that clay shrinks by an average of 10% ? when completely dry. And do you ever do push moulding, are there any limitations on the amount of detailing (could an Alien creature as in the film, be cast this way) barring in mind this is just clay?
Hi Nigel, different clay shrinks at different rates. Earthenware doesn't shink that much, but a higher temperature clay like Porcelain will shrink quite a lot, especially when being fired. To cast a mould you do need to consider the detail, insofar as making sure the mould is still functional and can be separated after casting without damaging the form. A very detailed shape may need to be cast from several separate moulds and assembled together after casting. Almost anything is possible though!
Hi, Thankyou for this wonderful video and explaining the whole process. I was wondering if for high fire stoneware clays we can do the same thing and make molds for the pots/utensils we want to make. Do you think it would work? Or only pinching is the right way to make it?
No, the water from the clay goes into the plaster and thats how you biuld up a clay lining in the mould. You do not want to get in the way of the clay/plaster or this magic cannot happen.
Add to that the water content of the slip, yes all this makes a difference to how much the level drops and consequently, how thick the item cast will be.
Literally as soon as you remove one cast, put the mould back together and cast again. In a warm, dry workspace you will get several castings per day. Eventually the mould will become saturated and you'll need to rest it to dry it out, you'll notice that when the slip takes ages to absorb, and perhaps you see little air bubbles in the surface of the cast item when you extract.
Yes. Stoneware slip requires more deflocculant, more often. It has a similar s.g. Works in a similar way, but from my experience it benefits from a long, steady mix and will keep asking for deflocculation.
While the clay is still wet and you are using slip to join I find it really is not necessary to score. If it were a larger surface area it is a good idea.
I have a mold for a chess set and the kings are about 5 inches tall, so small pieces. I would like each piece to be as heavy as possible so is it ok to make the men solid by adding more slip as it goes down ? Will they crack durring the firing if I do this? Most likely I will leave a small air pocket in the bodies put the heads , sholders and arms will be solid. Thanks
Hmm... well, it depends on the size of the piece.. as you say the item may not get through a firing as the heat needs to get to the centre at the same time as the outside of the piece. If this does not happen the rate at which the piece heats up will be different and so the expansion of the clay in different areas... in some cases this will crack the item and in extreme cases the item will explode. The solution is to fire reeeeeaallll slow, so the inside and outside heats up at the same rate and you may well get away with it!
@@HobbyCeramicraft Dear Sir: when you say "...reeeeaal slow..." I am assuming that means 'at a lower temperature for a longer time period'? Thank you for your videos! Wayne
The temperature you go to is less of an issue, however the rate of ascent is likely to be the cause of any cracking. Slow the rate and then adjust the top temperature to match the heatwork generated in the kiln. If you are taking longer to get to temperature, then, yes, you can conclude the firing at a lower temp and get same heatwork as firing higher-quicker.
If you are in the UK we sell a plastic knife which is not identical but works in the same way: www.hobbyceramicraft.co.uk/tools-plastic-pallette-knife or this little fella : www.hobbyceramicraft.co.uk/tools-clay-tools-mould-trimmer-
It depends which plaster they were made from, how much detail is in the plaster and what the specific gravity (clay content) of the slip is. Plaster is porous. It has to be in order to absorb the water from the slip. This means that naturally it will wear. More noticeable on detailed items. Choose a strong plaster and go for high bodied slip for the best mould life. I would say some plain moulds I have I am still casting over 100+, yet would not get perhaps more than 50 from a detailed mould before I noticed detail fading.
Either use chopped up inner tubes for small moulds or woven ratchet straps for larger moulds. Depends where you are in the world, we sell both types in the UK.
It may be you have something in the plaster which is not allowing the slip to dry suffiently in that area. It could be you need to leave the slip to set a little more, if that means the tree is liekly to crack when drying, then I would suggest getting your slip to a higher sg which will not shrink so much when setting.
This is a slip we make from Italian (Colorobbia) ingredients. Contact them directly if you want to know more. We buy as pellets and mix with water and deflocculant.
Could you tell me where you're from? I buy slip from companies that make slip. It is so thick that you can't pour it. If you do stir it down until it gets more liquid, it thickens within minutes and you can't get it to drain. I stir and shake and carefully take a dowel and try to make it drain. I don't know what to do. I have made slip in the past and I can make it work better. I'm not setup to make it all the time for myself so it's best for me to buy it premixed. I think there are ingredients that by law the companies are not allowed to put in, because years ago, it was always wonderful . I have been doing ceramics for more than 50 years so it's not like I'm a novice. I teach ceramics at one of the rec centers even at 75. I do the pouring but am so discouraged by the slip that I feel like throwing in the towel. Thanks.
Hi Diana, we make the slip we use onsite. That way I can make and adjust it to our liking. We actually use an Italian clay because it has a great compatibility with the Italian clear glaze we most often use. Slip will change in consistency from day to day. One day it will popur fine, the next it will be a thick as yoghurt and not want to move. that is where you need to check the Specific Gravity (weight) of the slip. The Specific Gravity will show you how much water and how much clay is in your slip. Often a slip may appear very thick, yet the Specific Gravity will suggest you have the perfect amount of clay to water, this is when you need to add deflocculant, which is like a magical liquid which will thin the slip without altering the S.G.
Make sure your slip is the right consistency. If the plaster mould is particularly wet and the water from the slip cannot absorb into the plaster, then you can get small air bubbles.
The type of mould soap I have chosen over the years makes a big difference. Some that others recommended I can't get the hang of. I use a 'magical' liquid which I have no idea what is in it, but works for me.. so my advice, is.. if you are struggling, try a different separator.
I hear you! The principle is simple, but in practice it can be a quite a process! Search online for plaster casting moulds, a simple mug mould should be fairly easy to find..
Siempre pensé que los españoles y las mujeres hablan sin posibilidades de detenerse, pero he descubierto que éste tipo es una nueva categoría.... Me aburrió mortalmente y no pasé de verlo un par de minutos..... Pobre del que miró el video completo......
Eduardo, thank you for taking the time to comment on this video! If I may.. you could help make the world a better place by simply finding the videos you 'are' interested in and adding "nice" comments instead of sneering, negative ones. I don't doubt it's in your character; underneath your trolling, unappreciative, misogynist attitude, there's a kind hearted, lovable chap just bursting to spread some positivity. Have a great day Eddie.. x
Well I launched YT for a totally different topic and then found myself watching this. Not my hobby or business but I found it very interesting, informative and well presented. Well done and thank you.🎉
Thanks for taking the time to share the love!
WONDERFUL VIDEO!
I know nothing about ceramics. I came to UA-cam to find a video that showed what I had just read about in an article on deflocculation, rheology, & thixotropy. Your video did a great job of showing the things I didn't understand because of my lack of familiarity with ceramics! My background in chemistry could only help me understand so much before watching your video.
Thank you!
Crumbs, what a lovely comment, thanks!!
I am a DIY guy, and currently I have an antique automobile. A broken part on my transmission has forced me into learning a lot of this stuff, because I have to make my own part on my car transmission.
Yesterday I attempted to make a mold using petrobond on my aluminum part.
I learned very quickly that petrobond sticks to the aluminum Park that I'm trying to make a mold of.
I spent all my money this month on my fixed income, on everything I need to do this, LOL oh, now I have to wait until the 3rd of next month to continue lol again. Nonetheless...
... learning what I am watching in this video is the Avenue in which I need to take next month when I resume my task...
... this is an absolute wonderful video teaching me how to make this part using ceramics. Thank you very much for your Productions, I have subscribed and will continue to watch all your videos thank you very much!
I wish you success, my greetings to you 🌹
Very informative. I wasn't aware before I thought slip was slip for ceramic.
Thank you, very informative, and now we understand more about why we get hotspots.
Great video, clearly explained and demonstrated. Thank you.
Boom!
Great video, thank you for sharing. Very informative and lots of good tips!!
Glad it was helpful!
This is a great demonstration, thank you so much Mr.
You are very welcome
Great tutorial! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
My pleasure!
Sir how can mankig boday selip
Plz sir gauide me
Plz sir i am learning calyz and body and i am working ceramic industry
Thanks for sharing your knowledge,great tutorials 👍🏼
you are very welcome.
so satisfying to watch the unmolding :0
Hello, Great video, I just subscribed. Please tell me where I can have a mold made? I want to have an Egg pitcher mold made, size 34" x 45". Any Idea on cost for a mold that size? Thank You!
That's huge! I'm guessing from your spelling of "mold" you are in the USA, in which case I doubt I'd be much help over in the UK. I could offer a couple of videos shwoing you how to do it yourself though.. check this channel..
@@HobbyCeramicraft Correct, I'm in the US.
34 inches x 45 inches would be 88 cm x 114 cm, wouldn't call it huge. Sure, I'd grealy appreciate the channel you mentioned in your comment.
If you could please post the link, thank you!
Excellent video for a novice to watch.
Glad you think so!
I grew up watching my grandparents do this. They owned a ceramics shop. Sadly grandpa passed away and now the business is for sale. I contemplate buying it just to keep it alive.
We've been in this industry for a literal lifetime and I feel there will always be a demand for this sort of creative enterprise.. just adapt it to the changing market and demographic of your area.. its a great industry to be part of!
Hey buddy. Good job creating all of that and making something out of “nothing” in a way.. just a muddy liquid into a beautiful product
Thanks 👍
I subscribed a week ago, first video of you for me to see. . .thanks!
Welcome aboard!
Great video, thank you for sharing !
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video.
You are welcome!
Thank you - great video for me and what i need to have done in my pottery studio
Glad it was helpful!
That was very simple to understand. Not yet slip cast, but have just ordered my first mug mould. When do you take off the lines on the clay.
I like to do that when the clay is leather hard. If you leave until dry then you will make a bit of dust, so do when the item is still a bit damp and the clay flecks will drop off in chunks.
Thank you for sharing from Slovakia :)
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this demo. I have a chance to buy 300 molds but I know nothing about how do use the molds. This has been very helpful. next I need to know the next stage. will check back later for more videos. I think we have a Pottery club in my area so I.m wondering if I do go ahead making these if I can get them fired at the pottery club. Lots of things to suss out before making the commitment. thx again.
How exciting!
Excellent video. Thank you so much.
You are welcome!
I'm new to the ceramics world, my mom and I got lucky and bought a ton of molds and a kiln as well as paints and I believe pre-mixed slip? It came in jugs, and so I am a bit concerned for creating a proper consistency. I don't have a fancy mixer set up, is there a way to mix slip by hand and then determine if it's appropriate consistency for use within the molds? I don't imagine the jugs of clay and water will have gone bad, it's just clay and water after all, but I do imagine we will have to spend some time on properly mixing it and playing around with pouring it into the molds by hand as well as experimenting with how long each mold takes to set. I believe all our molds are plaster, and I anticipated that they'd take days to set so learning it could be on a timeline more so of hours was quite the shock. I have no idea how low to let the slip go for most of them, and the fellow who sold it to us never quite hammered out the specifics himself. We also have no idea what the type of clay in mixture was used, but I hate to let so many jugs go to waste so we'll use them to practice before making better pieces. Thank you for your video! It has been very helpful.
Sorry for the late reply, hopefully you have experimented and worked out how to get started. Don't worry if you mess up a bit, all of the bad castings can be reclaimed and made back into new slip to try again..
This was great. Thank you.
Yes I will
@Zavier Joziah piss off spam boy.
Thanks for your previous reply
Can I ask, what is the most plaster mould pieces youve ever made?
I heard for the Maquette example made for 2005 King king film (kong battling the dinosaur) it took 50 mould portions, BUT I don't understand how anyone can join curved plaster portions even when using keys/locks, without them falling over
It's not sensible to have a mold with too many pieces, as that makes it a puzzle to assemble and strap together, and every join will make a raised line on the piece that needs to be cleaned off. Better in my opinion is to make a mold simple that has fewer parts to it, and if the shape is complicated, make separate molds and join them together after casting.
@@HobbyCeramicraft I agree but there are times when say a...four part mould might be necessary, because of under cuts trapping pieces
good stuff
grew up using that slip machine, want to make dishware out of my homes natural clay on the property
It is a Lehman table.. been in service for decades!
Thanks for your lessons. Am looking for a toilet mold. Any recommendations. Thanks
Toilet.. sorry, no.. maybe contract a commercial producer and ask for an old mould. BTW, try painting a new toilet with glazes on top of the already glazed surface for a fun activity. Fire slowly though.. there's a lot of mass in that shape and needs even heating... (We've made a few.. cracked a few in firing them too!)
This is a great video! Very informative, thank you very much!
You're very welcome!
لو سمحت ما هيا مكونات الطين والاضافات والنسب المئويه
Could you please make a video that shows how to produce the plaster mold. Thank You so much
Maybe..
U R great work sir
So nice of you
How would you do this to make vessels for liquid? As in a specific wall thickness?
Well it depends on the slip. If you were casting with a strong high temperature clay like porcelain then you could go quite thin, maybe 3mm, but if you are using earthenware slip, I'd head for around 4-5mm. The larger the item the thicker you'll want it as a thin piece will struggle to hold its own weight when wet.
I want to make a fine china serving bowl, what slip do you recommend I use? I want to be able to put food in it to serve at the dinner table. Thank you
Slip is heavy and can be costly to ship, so it can be a good idea to find a supplier that is local to you so you can collect. Look for a high temperature casting slip, stoneware is forgiving to cast with (in my experience) Porcelain can be tricky.. but when it works definitely worth it!
I am quite new to a slip casting technique. Have made several plaster molds for casting porcelain. And had some success, but recently I have noticed that some of the greenware gets tiny pinholes
and then, (because some cups doesnt have it) there are SOMETIMES also pinholes on the glaze.
If i got it right, those tiny pinholes are the result of air bubbles or pieces of dust in the casting slip, right? But i wonder, do those pinholes influence the glaze? I am a bit confused, because some of the porcelain cups are not having those pinholes on the glaze and some do have.
it fires hire than it should and moreover fires unevenly.
pinholes on the greenware?
I'm using the vacuum matching,but my slip viscosity 1200
A wet plaster mold can cause pin holes where the water is unable to absorb into the plaster from the slip.
Nice demonstration and very well explained! I have one question about the mold: it has to be made of plaster? Or it can be made with ceramic?
I'm thinking of making a mug and i was wondering if i could use a ceramic pot i have for the mold with no glazing.
Thank you!
To make a casting mould you really need to use plaster in order to absorb the water from the clay which creates a clay lining. Ceramic would not work in the same way.
Are these the same as ceramic slip cast molds?
Also is there a need of a kiln?
great video, subscribed! you need an iv of caffine though!
Thank You,... you need a dictionary.
This is a really interesting method of combining a traditional material and modern technology. It's made me think - could something like clay (or liquid chalk, plus some aggregate) be used to build a house wall, using a similar methodology as a concrete pour?
To get durability with clay you will need to fire it. The higher the temperature, the more vitrified, stronger and non-porous it becomes.
@@HobbyCeramicraft I see. Perhaps liquid chalk would be a better material. Or large tiles could be fired, and fitted into a timber frame.
Hi Sir, Can you please tell how to make the liquid clay mixture ?
When you order your specific bag of slip, ask them for directions. You will likely also need sodium silicate, sodium ash and barium carbonate. (And water)
Hello! I have multiple ceramic mold like the one on your video. What I would like to know is if we use quickrete or mortar in these molds, will it come out and the mold be reusable?
No and Yes. Pour concrete in and it will glue the mould together. The mould is reusable if you use liquid clay.
Awesome vid thanks so much @hobbyCeramicraft - this huge contraption you're emptying your slip in, poring back slip and that pump thingy to fill up molds. What is it call? I would definitely like to invest in one down the line xx
Oh I see, pouring bench & slip mixer
Yes, its from an American company called Lehman manufacturing.
@@HobbyCeramicraft thanks for responding!
Can you make a video on how to make a copy from another mold. When we missed the original piece.
You just need to be respectful that you may not have the rights to make a mold of a pre-existing mold. There are videos on here showing you how to make a casting mold.
@@HobbyCeramicraft But the mold is mine, I have the registration and the rights, I simply only have one because the original piece was broken.
Then you are good to go. Castthick with slip and mold away. Or if you are feeling extravagant, you could cast with a rubber or latex to get the original form, then separate onto the plaster and get molding.
how to make ceramic powder
Not something we would do, sorry..
How long do I wait to remove the liquid ceramic from the mold?😊
Thank you, very informative. How do you know if your slip is too thick? I'm using Chromartie 1075 White Earthenware, with a small, baby's shoe mould. After only about 5 mins the slip is too thick to pour out. Should I thin it somehow?
Check the weight. If the specific gravity shows it too heavy, then add water. If the S.G. is good, then add deflocculant.
@@HobbyCeramicraftThanks for the reply. No idea about specific gravity- there's no info on the slip container label other than that above.(Ive had it about 8/9 months). Even if it said what is was supposed to be I'd have no idea how to measure it. let alone where to get de-flocculant.....
Watch our video "Reclaim waste clay into casting slip for ceramic production" for a lesson on specific gravity. If you are unsure what the s.g. of your slip should be, 1.8 is a decent start. Deflocculant, like Sodium silicate we sell.
hi sir! good products you got there! i wish to do it my own, may know what material u used to make the mold? plaster moulds ya?
You want a strong plaster blend which is both absorbant but also stong enough to retain detail. There are many different blends of plaster available, contact a specialist supplier in your area and have a chat with them, as there will be quite a difference in mould efficiency dependant on the plaster used... and also the ratio of the plaster mix too..
great video. How would I reconstitute the clay off cuts.
There is another video we made explaining this. You'll need to work out the specific gravity required for the slip you are using and get hold of some deflocculant, like sodium silicate.
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation:
00:03 🏺 To cast ceramic shapes, use liquid clay (slip) and plaster molds.
00:28 💧 Ensure the slip consistency is right; not too wet or too thick.
02:30 🚰 Be patient with slip flow; it thickens as it's mixed.
05:38 🏺 You can cast ceramics at home with basic tools like a jug.
06:19 🧰 Rubber bands can be used as mold straps.
07:50 ⏲️ The time to let molds set varies; monitor the slip level.
08:30 🌧️ Setting time depends on factors like mold dampness and previous casts.
10:04 🛡️ Thickness of the piece's clay film inside the mold matters for durability.
13:38 🧱 After casting, let the pieces dry; drying time varies with size.
22:33 🎨 Glaze-fired ceramics show hot spots if slip wasn't moved during casting.
25:08 🔥 Firing temperature depends on the clay used; bisque firing is around 1020°C.
26:35 🧽 Proper slip preparation is crucial for successful casting.
Made with HARPA AI
thanks for the breakdown..
Why did you not remove the flashing on the Penguins? Michael
Because this is just a test piece.
Hello! How do you make a mold of a vintage lighted ceramic Christmas tree without damaging the original tree? Can it be done with silicone? I can't find any tutorials online. Thank you.
It would be possible, but quite an undertaking. You'd have to make the mould in sections, using strong plaster and bedding the original in clay. Even after all that, you would likely not get a great detail as the original would have a coating of glaze which would smooth over sharp details. I would suggest it would be a lot easier to source a ready made mould or a replacement bisque item.
@@HobbyCeramicraft
Thank you for taking the time to respond to me. Happy New Year! 🥳
How long should you wait for larger molds to open the mold?
If the slip sticks to your finger, it is too wet to open the mold. Also, if the mold doesn't want to open... don't force it as its a sign the slip is still to wet and you will rip the cast.
Great tutorial.
Would like to know what is the mould material are you using for casting wet clay?
You need a plaster which is both absorbant to take the water from the clay, but also strong to hold the detail.
Hi can you help me build a custom plaster mould for a project. i basically need a concave disk 5 mm wide is good enough but size 650mm *650mm.
Find a shape that you want to reproduce in a non-porous material and pour plaster over it.
Are the molds made of plaster of Paris? If not what is it made of? Trying to determine how to cast a mold to remake an old 60s Duncan chess board piece (can't find a mold anywhere for my board, hopeful i can make one and cast it myself)
No, there are many different types and grades of plaster available for all sorts of applications, we use one which is both strong to retain detail, but also absorbant to develop a skin of clay inside the mould without excessive ware. You should contact a plaster seller or craft supplies outlet local to you and ask for a plaster that would suit.
is it true that clay shrinks by an average of 10% ? when completely dry. And do you ever do push moulding, are there any limitations on the amount of detailing (could an Alien creature as in the film, be cast this way) barring in mind this is just clay?
Hi Nigel, different clay shrinks at different rates. Earthenware doesn't shink that much, but a higher temperature clay like Porcelain will shrink quite a lot, especially when being fired. To cast a mould you do need to consider the detail, insofar as making sure the mould is still functional and can be separated after casting without damaging the form. A very detailed shape may need to be cast from several separate moulds and assembled together after casting. Almost anything is possible though!
What does mean when a mold sportive have fur mold after pouring
Perfectly normal. Salts from the plaster working their way out from the water being absorbed.
I am learning calyz and body silp.
Teach me plz
Hi, Thankyou for this wonderful video and explaining the whole process.
I was wondering if for high fire stoneware clays we can do the same thing and make molds for the pots/utensils we want to make. Do you think it would work? Or only pinching is the right way to make it?
You can slipcast with many other clays, not just earthenware. Stoneware casting is a great idea if you need identical multiples.
@@HobbyCeramicraft Thankyou. 😊😇
Do you put a coating of something on the inside of the plaster mold before pouring the slip into it to keep the clay from sticking?
No, the water from the clay goes into the plaster and thats how you biuld up a clay lining in the mould. You do not want to get in the way of the clay/plaster or this magic cannot happen.
Is there a surface area to volume of the level drop formula?
Add to that the water content of the slip, yes all this makes a difference to how much the level drops and consequently, how thick the item cast will be.
Great video! And I like your blunger and pump machine. Can you tell me who made it or where you got it?
Lehman Manufacturing, Indiana
Excellent video, after removing the piece of slip from the plaster mold, how long should
I wait to use this plaster mold again? thank you so much. :)
Literally as soon as you remove one cast, put the mould back together and cast again. In a warm, dry workspace you will get several castings per day. Eventually the mould will become saturated and you'll need to rest it to dry it out, you'll notice that when the slip takes ages to absorb, and perhaps you see little air bubbles in the surface of the cast item when you extract.
@@HobbyCeramicraft Thank You :)
I’m having trouble finding a plate mold like in your video. Could you recommend a US source?
Thank you🌻
We get most of our moulds from MaycoColors in Ohio USA.
@@HobbyCeramicraft Thank you for your quick reply.
figures are very good
Do you have to fire the clay or can you just leave it and use it for a cute figurine?
Really should fire it, or else it will not be very durable.
Can you use liquid Stoneware slip?
Yes. Stoneware slip requires more deflocculant, more often. It has a similar s.g. Works in a similar way, but from my experience it benefits from a long, steady mix and will keep asking for deflocculation.
What is that tool called? Lucy? Loosey? can't find it.
Lucy tool.. no clue why its called that, look up mold trimmer.
should you not score up the 2 pieces of clay? we did with the ceramics
While the clay is still wet and you are using slip to join I find it really is not necessary to score. If it were a larger surface area it is a good idea.
I have hundreds of molds I don’t know what to do with, some of them never even used, was gifted to me, what should I do with them?
There is always a demand for batches of molds, but if you sell as a bundle you will have to be sensible about how much you ask for them.
@@HobbyCeramicraft what’s a good price? Range from a salt/pepper shaker size to statues. $10/mold? 5 for $25
I have a mold for a chess set and the kings are about 5 inches tall, so small pieces. I would like each piece to be as heavy as possible so is it ok to make the men solid by adding more slip as it goes down ? Will they crack durring the firing if I do this? Most likely I will leave a small air pocket in the bodies put the heads , sholders and arms will be solid. Thanks
Hmm... well, it depends on the size of the piece.. as you say the item may not get through a firing as the heat needs to get to the centre at the same time as the outside of the piece. If this does not happen the rate at which the piece heats up will be different and so the expansion of the clay in different areas... in some cases this will crack the item and in extreme cases the item will explode. The solution is to fire reeeeeaallll slow, so the inside and outside heats up at the same rate and you may well get away with it!
@@HobbyCeramicraft Dear Sir: when you say "...reeeeaal slow..." I am assuming that means 'at a lower temperature for a longer time period'? Thank you for your videos! Wayne
The temperature you go to is less of an issue, however the rate of ascent is likely to be the cause of any cracking. Slow the rate and then adjust the top temperature to match the heatwork generated in the kiln. If you are taking longer to get to temperature, then, yes, you can conclude the firing at a lower temp and get same heatwork as firing higher-quicker.
SO YOU HAVE TO USE A CERTAIN KIND OF CLAY FOR YOUR SLIP? WILL AIR DRY CLAY WORK THE SAME WAY?
We use white earthenware clay. I do not think air drying clay would work as a slip, because it hardens in a different way to regular clay.
What pouring table do you use?
Hi Stephen, Its an old Lehman pouring bench.. I think the code was 'T60'..?
What is the plastic Knife called you are using?
We know it as a "lucy" tool. No clue why.. but alternatively, look up plastic mould trimmer.
Just wanted to ask you were you get the mould scraper from been trying to find them with no luck at all
If you are in the UK we sell a plastic knife which is not identical but works in the same way: www.hobbyceramicraft.co.uk/tools-plastic-pallette-knife or this little fella : www.hobbyceramicraft.co.uk/tools-clay-tools-mould-trimmer-
Hello there
Can we cast gupsum slip in such mold .any idea sir
Not sure what gupsum slip is.. these plaster moulds will only work with liquid clay slips.
Can you do this with air-dry clay?
No, sorry..
Do moulds have a limited life span? If yes, how long is that?
It depends which plaster they were made from, how much detail is in the plaster and what the specific gravity (clay content) of the slip is. Plaster is porous. It has to be in order to absorb the water from the slip. This means that naturally it will wear. More noticeable on detailed items. Choose a strong plaster and go for high bodied slip for the best mould life. I would say some plain moulds I have I am still casting over 100+, yet would not get perhaps more than 50 from a detailed mould before I noticed detail fading.
What’s the recipe please? I can’t find this slip anywhere in the US
The slip we use in the UK is made from Italian white earthenware clay. The principles of casting will be very similar with USA made casting slips.
Thank you so much, love your videos and knowledge it’s fun learning and doing projects with my kids.
Do you sell the slip by chance or have a link to where I can purchase?
Hi, thank you for the video. When would you have the time to share the video how to reclaim the clay and prepare the slip?
He already answered this question.
I will soon
once you remove from molds do you cover them to dry or just air dry
Just let air dry naturally.
Hello sir 🙋
Can u use fiber glass mould for casting
No, you need plaster to absorb the water from the clay.
How to make the moulds to use again and again?
Thats a whole different process. I'll make a mould making video at some point, but you can already find some on youtube..
Where did you get your strap belts for the mould
Either use chopped up inner tubes for small moulds or woven ratchet straps for larger moulds. Depends where you are in the world, we sell both types in the UK.
hi can you tell me what makes my christmas tree mold sticks at the top and when I open my mold it breaks the top of my christ.as tree
It may be you have something in the plaster which is not allowing the slip to dry suffiently in that area. It could be you need to leave the slip to set a little more, if that means the tree is liekly to crack when drying, then I would suggest getting your slip to a higher sg which will not shrink so much when setting.
How to create this molds or any mold like that??
Do a search for how to make plaster casting moulds, plenty of instructional videos on UA-cam.
Me de por favor a receita dessa barbotina!.
Obg
This is a slip we make from Italian (Colorobbia) ingredients. Contact them directly if you want to know more. We buy as pellets and mix with water and deflocculant.
Ok obrigado!.
Could you tell me where you're from? I buy slip from companies that make slip. It is so thick that you can't pour it. If you do stir it down until it gets more liquid, it thickens within minutes and you can't get it to drain. I stir and shake and carefully take a dowel and try to make it drain. I don't know what to do. I have made slip in the past and I can make it work better. I'm not setup to make it all the time for myself so it's best for me to buy it premixed. I think there are ingredients that by law the companies are not allowed to put in, because years ago, it was always wonderful . I have been doing ceramics for more than 50 years so it's not like I'm a novice. I teach ceramics at one of the rec centers even at 75. I do the pouring but am so discouraged by the slip that I feel like throwing in the towel. Thanks.
Hi Diana, we make the slip we use onsite. That way I can make and adjust it to our liking. We actually use an Italian clay because it has a great compatibility with the Italian clear glaze we most often use. Slip will change in consistency from day to day. One day it will popur fine, the next it will be a thick as yoghurt and not want to move. that is where you need to check the Specific Gravity (weight) of the slip. The Specific Gravity will show you how much water and how much clay is in your slip. Often a slip may appear very thick, yet the Specific Gravity will suggest you have the perfect amount of clay to water, this is when you need to add deflocculant, which is like a magical liquid which will thin the slip without altering the S.G.
How to create these molds please???
Make a plaster mould of a shape you like, or search for ready made moulds from specialist manufacturers.
What glaze was used for these?
On the penguins, we just used a standard clear earthenware glaze.
Please can you tell me sir
How i make liquid cly
We will make a video showing this in the future..
@@HobbyCeramicraft yes but it's really urgent to me. Because of i wanna make some statue idols so please sir help me...?
Sir...how to control or eliminate air bubbles?
Make sure your slip is the right consistency. If the plaster mould is particularly wet and the water from the slip cannot absorb into the plaster, then you can get small air bubbles.
Also, once you have filled tour mold, tap the sides with your hands to release any bubbles to the top.
Thank you for your information sir..
I use a sharp slice of mango to cut off the edges.
Mango? really??
What the materials are using
Earthenware clay in plaster moulds.
@@HobbyCeramicraft hi contact no place
Just curious to why you didn't sand off the ridges?
Just demonstrating the process. Yes, normally you would remove the seam lines.
9:30 I guess you also don't want to leave it so long that your pour hole closes up?
absolutely
Meanwhile im struggling to get moulds half that size appart when pouring the plaster 😅
The type of mould soap I have chosen over the years makes a big difference. Some that others recommended I can't get the hang of. I use a 'magical' liquid which I have no idea what is in it, but works for me.. so my advice, is.. if you are struggling, try a different separator.
@@HobbyCeramicraft awesome! Thank you for the reply 🙏
I’m looking to buy the plaster molds made. I need a lg coffee cup! I tried to make one myself and it’s more work than I thought!
I hear you! The principle is simple, but in practice it can be a quite a process! Search online for plaster casting moulds, a simple mug mould should be fairly easy to find..
Siempre pensé que los españoles y las mujeres hablan sin posibilidades de detenerse, pero he descubierto que éste tipo es una nueva categoría.... Me aburrió mortalmente y no pasé de verlo un par de minutos..... Pobre del que miró el video completo......
Eduardo, thank you for taking the time to comment on this video! If I may.. you could help make the world a better place by simply finding the videos you 'are' interested in and adding "nice" comments instead of sneering, negative ones. I don't doubt it's in your character; underneath your trolling, unappreciative, misogynist attitude, there's a kind hearted, lovable chap just bursting to spread some positivity. Have a great day Eddie.. x
we say slip strike
instead of 'hot-spot'?
@@HobbyCeramicraft yes.
how did you create the pasture molds in the first place?
commercially available slip casting plaster moulds