I’ve watched and read so much today and this is the one video that’s really made sense in a “now I can do this” way. Conveniently a little toy is what I really want to slip cast first so this is extra helpful.
Found this video randomly out of boredom, and general mold making interest. 8 minutes in and all I can think is "wow this guy and his video production remind me of Alton Brown"... needless to say - I'm now subscribed 😄
I thought the exact same thing while watching. The close-up/slightly angled shots with great levels of enthusiasm really channels Alton Brown. Love the work!
Yay! Tiki Technical Tuesday! I minored in ceramics in college, accidentally, but we never made molds. Now, 25 years later, I'm wanting to make stuff again. Your channel has been great for both instruction and motivation. If you're wondering who's been binging your videos, it's me. Thanks so much!
I write comments so rarely, but I couldn't help myself. You are a natural teacher. You are funny and nice and have so much knowledge. Your future self almost cut this video short and I was thinking - please let it run! Anyway - it's possible to watch this at higher speeds to "save time" but I like your content so much I watch it like a series episode 😅. Keep on what you are doing! 🙏
I will never make a mold or a mug or use slip. HOWEVER, i am fascinated and love all your Technical Tuesday videos. Such great and fun info and great editing. I know a lot of time and work goes into these and I appreciate them and you.
This is me too! I try and make videos for my craft - and I learn so much about the video making process from this series. I also just love watching a master of craft at work! I also recently found your reels on Instagram - enjoying watching those too!
I appreciate you standing up for the copyrights of everyone. It bothers me when people think that stealing another artist's work is ever okay. You might not like how a company operates, but at the end of the day, you're hurting an artist, not a corporation.
Yes! It drives me nuts that lately the attitude is "its ok to steal if it's from a big company" - what?! Stealing is not ok - ever! I got a surprising about of kickback on this video saying i'm overreacting
I recently became very interested in slip casting, so i found you while looking for casting tutorials and i have to say i love your sympathetic and easy way of explaining things. Great video!
Your channel is one of my absolute favorites! I get so much useful information from your videos, and I find myself watching them over and over for inspiration and to work through problems with my own projects. As a secondary visual arts teacher, your channel has become one of my most valuable resources for technical information. I love your funny t-shirts, too! 👏👋👋
I've watched all your videos. What is cool is that this one fills in some details that I didn't pick up from the other mold making videos. And, as always, great production values! 👍
The info is great, the videos are great, but honestly- I would probably enjoy a video of you just sitting and reading the Manhattan directory. You have so much fun with whatever you do. Thanks for bringing us along; it's a fantastic ride!
These are great! So thorough! I have a dentist friend who I told about these and he is likely watching every one of your videos now he phoned and it felt like a phone call from heaven, he was so happy. Planning space in the next kiln load for his stuff.
I've just found you. Thank you so much, I want to change my professional life and you have given me a wonderful path to follow. Please, Please never stop teaching us. Thank you so much. 1 quick request maybe? Can you please do a video with a list of tools, kiln, underglaze colors, et cetera for beginners. Thank you so much for all your knowledge and generosity.
I'm getting ready to move into a mold making position for a jewlery company and while the product is different the work is basically the same. Thank you for this video. It's very knowledgeable.
You gained yourself a subscriber! I just found this one video from you and i thoroughly enjoyed sitting through the whole video like its an educational tv series on the afternoon!! Youre a great teacher and please keep doing amazing :)
Your videos are awesome! You are a natural and also the production quality is very good. I watched several of your videos in a day and I don't even have any interest in pottery and yet I found your clips very interesting and entertaining.
Thank you kindly for the video and the joy of your teaching and editing style! This will help me immensely as I start up my slip-casting production work. Greetings from Salem! I love Georgies. :)
Subscribed. I am so many years away from needing to know how to make my own moulds it's kind of funny, but I'm not going to start resisting my inner need to know everything *now* at my age.
Thank you so much for this excellent and so detailed tutorial!!! I am working on casting parts of vintage dolls, I just create my first plaster mold, and this tutorial has been a treasure!!! ❤😊
This video is perfectly timed! I had plans to start making moulds, starting with something small. Now I just need to find a plastic McD's toy (...they were banned in our country about 8 years ago...). 🤔🤔🤔 Also, you can make this 3hrs long, I'd still watch all of it (maybe in a couple of sittings...).
Thank you! Any simple small toy will do - simple objects (like a ball or an apple) can be great as well, but it is nice to learn from where the seam lines travel on the toys. Glad the episode wasn’t too long - I always worry!
I look forward to all of the videos on your channel and can’t believe you don’t have more followers. Your videos are entertaining and informative. While I am not likely to ever use this, I enjoy going on the journey with you and had zero issues with the length of this one. Looking forward to the video with the testing of coloured ceramics.
So cool to see you make this great educational video. A few years ago I got back into ceramics and started using sprig molds and I cast my originals in silicone so I could make multiple molds. The skills one picks up in film are quite transferable to a studio practice. Your instagram is great too!
I was thinking,”I don’t remember having issues with my small molds” when I used your tutorials to start off. But now I’m realizing the benefit of 3D printing. I just printed a mold of a mold of a mold and made a silicone master mold straight from the 3D print.
@@vantikistudio i’m going to have to look into that when I don’t have a solidworks license on my personal computer anymore. Definitely more skilled at CAD software than clay so far but I did drop off my first stuff at a studio for firing today so, fingers crossed I didn’t mess up.
These videos are great and again thank you!! One thing ive been wondering, as i cant seem to find any of your mugs for sale on your site, is how you go about pricing your Tiki mugs, what factors do you take into account etc. would be amazing to have a video on how you structure your time vs. payouts etc If not your actual numbers just an indication on what a ceramists starting out should consider when setting up to sell, operational equipment , the market etc
@@vantikistudio it is a difficult thing to navigate tho, as an artist attempting to break into the slipcast "scene" I have no idea how to price my product. Obviously quality, your artistry and your years of experience all factor into what people are willing to pay, you also create many many versions of the same mug. From comments you've made I believe you do a pre-sale before slipcasting begins? I guess it all boils down to what you have learnt along the way and what you are prepared to share regarding your business setup. TO BE CLEAR too what you have already shared is truly the most amazing resource for this process and I "we" are very grateful...looking forward to the next one..best
So good. Thank you. I have a particularly problematic area where I keep getting chipping on a 5 part mold I am trying to make. It’s not undercut, but it is a tight area with no draft for about 0.5”. It’s driving me crazy. As I’m typing this I realize perhaps I should put the thinnest sliver of clay there to draft it? The undercuts animation is amazing. The way you drew it breaking off is painfully accurate hah.
Good idea. I have seen that but have not tried it. I think I may have also not mixed my plaster for long enough. Data sheet has some very helpful plots that I didn’t see until now. Also ordered the book you recommended.
I just found your channel a few days ago and have been binging through all your wonderful videos. Even my 3yr old and 5 yr old enjoy watching them with me. Keep up the good work! How long do the silicone master molds last?
I’m so glad you found my channel! I have only been using this silicone for 5 years, and the 5 year old molds I have are in great shape. Back in my FX days the silicones we’d use would begin to tear as they aged and broke down - you’ve inspired me to reach out to the manufacturer and find out how long they think their product will last!
I noticed that you rapped the foam core mould to get the plaster to level. I remember that in concrete pouring, a vibrator is often used to ensure that the concrete flows properly around the rebar, around any corners and generally avoid any voids. Would an ultrasonic toothbrush vibrated against the side of the mould walls help with removing any potential bubbles from the plaster? That would also work with casting silicone around a plaster mould.
I was looking at your shop and saw a picture of the jack-o-lantern mug you did a while ago. Very neat. Do you think you will ever do anything like that again?
Regarding vibrations - I've found that a super cheap cordless massager works wonders for vibrating bubbles out of plaster. Way better than banging on the form - though a vibration table would be sweet! Regarding the plaster trap - are there issues pouring cured plaster down the sink? Uncured plaster would of course be a problem, because if it cures in your pipes, you're in a world of hurt. But what are your thoughts on slices/sludge of cured plaster?
You are right, technically cured plaster bits should be ok down the drain, but I don’t like to risk it. They can still build up on the low spots of your pipes as they are heavier than water. I’d put a mesh screen over your drain if you’re cleaning molds/buckets in your sink to keep the plaster chips out of the drain.
Great video...love your style But need some help. Can i use plaster of parish instead of potter plaster for mold making and how to make casting slip using wet clay.😊
I'm not a fan of plaster of paris - it isn't good for making molds. As for making slip from wet clay I've never tried it. I only use pre-made clay bodies designed for slip casting in the studio.
Excellent as always! Hopefully a helpful hint, if you tip the level on its face, you can level in the X, Y, and diagonal all at once! Hope that wasn't already obvious😊
Thank you for taking the time to teach this process! It's been 20+ years since I made a mould in college for just one assignment. Elementary art teacher and home Potter hobbyist here. I like to work on wheel thrown objects and handbuilding. I'm interested in sculpting a small figurine of my favorite soccer captain. (Acosta, Go FC Cincinnati!) Anyway... I want to bisque fire the master and use a simple glaze on it before casting it's mould. Any tips for finding the center line? He'll be standing in a pose similar to the example you use. I'll have to make sure it's perfectly level and even. I wonder if I could lay the master in a container and pour sand around it to help mark the midline?? Am I overthinking?? Lol Tips for finding the center all the way around would be awesome! Thanks! I wonder if I could lay the bisqueware in a dish then pour a stain up to the midline?? Then it's marked with one color on one side evenly?
Those all sound like interesting ways to find the edges! I’ve seen artists set a piece down on a flat table, then move a right angle around the piece, marking where it makes contact with a small dot as they make their way around the entire model. I hope that makes sense 😃
I love these instructional videos, but I have a question. Why do you drill the keys after the first half is done? Couldn’t you just put a depression/mound in the clay for the first piece?
you definitely can! Sometimes I make clay keys (you can see me do it in my other mold making videos), and sometimes I like the clean keys a drill can make. As long as the shape you make registers the two mold halves together, it's a good key!
For very small objects like coins you may not need to make a mold box/jacket - the silicone block won’t need the support as the piece you’re casting is so small it isn’t likely to distort the mold.
What kind of clay do you use when making the base? I've been following you for a while and then this video came my way again right as I'm in the process of making a small mold with one of my 3d prints as the figure!
its a soft oil based modeling clay - i think it is made by Chavant. For small pieces like this I use oil based clays to make the mold walls, as they don't dry out like water based clay, and are generally much cleaner. WARNING - be sure you use a sulphur free clay, as sulfur can inhibit some silicones. Also, I always use a clay that is softer than the model I am molding
It’s a round router bit - sometimes called a box bit. You can get them in various diameters - just make sure they have a 1/4” shank to fit in a standard drill. amzn.to/3xCZKkw
When I do large molds I make the cottle box out of wood and use clamps to hold everything together. For small molds like this I find the foam core buttresses to be the fastest for my process.
I'm diving into this world with my own 3d printed designs, and I had a question: since the plaster is what wicks away the moisture from the slip, is it possible to have a tiki mug design with 1 part silicone and second part plaster? (specifically a plaster insert forming the interior of the mug/wicking moisture away from the inside out?) my designs work well for silicone molds but less so for plaster
Interesting idea, but I don’t think it would work - the slip would never “skin” over the silicone sections. It would remain in a liquid state, and when you open the mold it would just pour out. If it did gel (say you left it in the mold for a loooong time) it wouldn’t catch any of the detail in the silicone side - think of trying to cast something out of ketchup.
@ what’s a good place to learn how to make more complex molds like that 9 part one for example, i’m a VFX artist and sculptor, so I can write a shader for example to figure out the draft angle based on various mold splits, but actually making a very complex mold like that would be a really interesting class to learn!
I can NOT tell you how very very much I appreciate your videos!! This was so informative and I realllly appreciate it. I’ve never seen anyone cover the holes in the mold. Looks like slices of cheese! Lol. What does this do? Obviously it will help it to not dry out. But why? Also… I wanted to ask you how you only fill the molds once without topping off every few minutes?
I was thinking 'this is a lengthy video' not that I expected it short but you are very thorough adding little tips, you're not boring to watch so it being longer isn't a hassel.... but I did lose any composure at your excitement at getting to use your vibrating table. I do alot of various diy stuff and have been learning about casting with different molds and materials and even making molds but I like your thoroughness and pace, even if I weren't planning to make my own molds I would have watched this after coming across the video.
hmm- will it freeze outside where you will put the pots? If so, I'd use a stoneware slip like the one I use in the studio - low fire slips don't completely vitrify and can get moisture seeping into them that can freeze and crack the clay.
Does adding some alcohol (as a wetting agent) in to the plaster mix make it cast smoother and release trapped bubbles better ? Would evaporate before mix cures ....
I wouldn’t want to take away from the water or dilute the water in the mix - it’s necessary for the plaster to properly set (the rehydration of the gypsum is part of the chemical reaction that makes the liquid plaster turn to stone). I do find a spritz of alcohol after pouring helps to break any surface bubbles
Good question! One way is to hold the shape out, and close one eye. Move a pencil tip slowly around the edge - if the pencil tip disappears behind the model, that is an undercut. Mark a line with the pencil at the exact point before the tip moves behind the model - I hope this makes sense! 😅
I know of several folks who make additives for gypsum that make it stronger for architectural use - but I would worry that it would affect the absorption qualities of the plaster and make slipcasting difficult
I find if I mix carefully and pour a thin steady stream I don’t have issues with bubbles. I picked this silicone specifically because it works well for me without vacuum de-airing (it sets too quickly I feel for using a vacuum chamber). I talk more about my silicone choice here: ua-cam.com/video/12UahLu-NYw/v-deo.htmlsi=04KmjhrscV05_N4s
@@vantikistudio interesting! This will come in handy for large molds. Thank you for your great knowledge - my kids and I have started slip casting and they're excited to start selling!
We had a mold make of my late daughter's hand. It was made with plaster of paris, I believe. I would like to make additional molds. How would I make a copy? I have heard that you can coat it with several layers of latex to make a negative to make more molds.
Great question! I’d recommend using silicone to make a flexible mold of the plaster hand - mainly because it has a low shrink rate and the castings would be the same size as the original hand. Smooth on makes a two part silicone putty that is like silky putty. It sets quickly and you could mold your hand with that.
I use Rebound 40, and go into the reasons it works for me here: Making a Slipcast Mug pt3: Silicone Mold Making! - Tiki Technical Tuesday ua-cam.com/video/12UahLu-NYw/v-deo.html
Hi, I'm trying to make a plaster mold for my ceramic project. It's a wax candle (figure) and it is kind of complicated form to start with. I don't know where to find a center line. Do you mind if you can check to see if it's even possible to make one? I could send pics or vidoe for you to see.
It’s very hard to give moldmaking advice without being able to hold the model - My advice is to hold the model away at arms length, and mark the edge of what you can see to find a rough parting line.
Hi, wondering about your choice of Rebound 40. I'm trying to save some money with the master mold making process. Have you tried Urethane rubber for making your molds? Econ 60 Urethane runs about half the cost of Rebound 40 and on paper looks like it would work. I looked at the tin cures that smooth on makes but the combination of long set time and need for a vacuum degasser make the cost savings seem moot.
You can definitely save $$ using urethane, and many artists I know go that route. I’ve used it in the past with good results, but it has some issues that can lead to disaster. It is VERY stiff (which can be a good thing - you don’t need wood boxes for your molds), but it is also VERY sticky. It’s essentially a glue, and if you don’t release your model well it will bond permanently. Another factor is it’s moisture sensitivity (moisture will cause it to foam and it will inhibit the cure) and I’ve had the water in plaster molds inhibit the urethane which left me with a sticky mess all over my model. Lastly, (and this is the same for silicone) you need to mix it very well or it won’t set. Unlike silicone, the two parts are not different colors giving g you a good visual of the quality of your mixing. That being said, it is MUCH cheaper!
Why didn't you insert marks on the first half of the mold while wet by pressing in a rounded piece of wood or whatever? Drilling it when it's still curing puts a lot of tension on the plaster and might crack it. Is there a certain reason for doing it this way? Or did you just forget to make them?
You can totally press a round sale into the clay - I often build keys into my clay walls that way. I find I get cleaner keys when doing round keys by drilling them into the plaster. I’ve never had any issues with the plaster cracking.
When tupperware/rubbermaid containers *used to be more affordable, that was my go-to enclosure for anything that might have fit for my reusable mold box. I was a prolific foam core user for a long time, but if/when you find yourself duping the same size shapes and just need a quick off-the-shelf solution, I'd reach for those old containers before the glue gun. Now it's about even anymore as the containers are so thin, you might get two uses out of one, but you get the added benefit that they have draft angles built in for easier removal. In a true tit-for-tat, I've tried a lot of release agents from home brew to commercial options, though depending on what mold material you're using, the 'ceramic' car wax works great for just about everything except silicone (as I later found out, that 'ceramic' component is just watered down silicone, literally, which in my book barely qualifies as ceramic). The stuff in the 16-32oz spray bottles last A LONG time. I used to go for carnauba wax layers, but things with exothermic reactions will definitely melt through wax, including things that use epoxy. Vaseline is good for those things but it's messy and time consuming during removal. I'll definitely have to try out the murphy soap as an alternative!
Another wall material I’ve seen folks use are LEGO bricks - they seem to work great and can be set up in multiple sizes. I just don’t have any in the studio, and while I could probably search for a bunch of used bricks foamcore suits my needs, and it’s super fast (time is always the key in production)
@@vantikistudio Interesting! I've never even thought of legos. My kids have piles of them; heck, free labor, and surely they can be coerced to make a box. 😁
I really couldn't say without seeing the piece. Is there a ceramics supply store near you that you could contact? They may know of a local mold maker who could give you advice.
Just so you know, pressure is a function of height, you would need them for a tall mold but not a shallow mold, even if the mold is very wide. You get into surface tension fun at very thin molds but a 4 inch wide and 15 inch tall mold would need extensive buttressing.
Yes! Totally with you on the height = pressure. Even on small molds like this I put the buttresses in as the silicone has a high specific gravity and I want to just play it safe 😄
![도자기 석고몰드는 어떻게 만들까? : How to make slip casting mold for ceramics [LEEDA atelier]](/img/n.gif)
I’ve watched and read so much today and this is the one video that’s really made sense in a “now I can do this” way. Conveniently a little toy is what I really want to slip cast first so this is extra helpful.
I’m so glad it helped your mug journey!
Found this video randomly out of boredom, and general mold making interest. 8 minutes in and all I can think is "wow this guy and his video production remind me of Alton Brown"... needless to say - I'm now subscribed 😄
Thank you for subscribing! I’m glad UA-cam pointed you in my direction
I thought the exact same thing while watching. The close-up/slightly angled shots with great levels of enthusiasm really channels Alton Brown. Love the work!
Same !!
Yay! Tiki Technical Tuesday! I minored in ceramics in college, accidentally, but we never made molds. Now, 25 years later, I'm wanting to make stuff again. Your channel has been great for both instruction and motivation. If you're wondering who's been binging your videos, it's me. Thanks so much!
Thank you so much for binging! I’m so glad you found the channel!
I write comments so rarely, but I couldn't help myself. You are a natural teacher. You are funny and nice and have so much knowledge. Your future self almost cut this video short and I was thinking - please let it run! Anyway - it's possible to watch this at higher speeds to "save time" but I like your content so much I watch it like a series episode 😅. Keep on what you are doing! 🙏
Thank you! I was SO torn on splitting this into two episodes - I even filmed an alternate take where future me says we need to cut it here 😁
"I'm going to do something special for the 10,000th episode." I really do hope you make that many videos.
Ha! I caught that flub in the editing - that would be a lot of episodes!
I will never make a mold or a mug or use slip. HOWEVER, i am fascinated and love all your Technical Tuesday videos. Such great and fun info and great editing. I know a lot of time and work goes into these and I appreciate them and you.
Thank you so much!
This is me too! I try and make videos for my craft - and I learn so much about the video making process from this series. I also just love watching a master of craft at work! I also recently found your reels on Instagram - enjoying watching those too!
I appreciate you standing up for the copyrights of everyone. It bothers me when people think that stealing another artist's work is ever okay. You might not like how a company operates, but at the end of the day, you're hurting an artist, not a corporation.
Yes! It drives me nuts that lately the attitude is "its ok to steal if it's from a big company" - what?! Stealing is not ok - ever! I got a surprising about of kickback on this video saying i'm overreacting
Thanks for 49 amazing minutes! I hope you enjoy making these videos as much as we like watching them.
They are fun to do - but I worried that this one ran too long! Thank you for watching!
Your undercut drawing/video explanation was awesome! Now I finally understand it! Thank you.
I’m so glad! It is a tricky concept to explain
So excited to see a new video.!!!!! I find little gems of information in each one. Thanks!!!!
Thank you so much! I packed a lot into this one 😅
I recently became very interested in slip casting, so i found you while looking for casting tutorials and i have to say i love your sympathetic and easy way of explaining things. Great video!
Thank you! So glad you found my channel!
This is an amazing wealth of knowledge and not many people do small molds, so i really appreciate it.
Thank you so much, and thank you for watching!
Your channel is one of my absolute favorites! I get so much useful information from your videos, and I find myself watching them over and over for inspiration and to work through problems with my own projects. As a secondary visual arts teacher, your channel has become one of my most valuable resources for technical information. I love your funny t-shirts, too! 👏👋👋
Thank you so much! As a former teacher, it makes me so happy to be a reference for educators!
Thank you for the fun video. You are clearly passionate about your craft and it shows in all the best ways.
Thank you for watching!
I've watched all your videos. What is cool is that this one fills in some details that I didn't pick up from the other mold making videos. And, as always, great production values! 👍
Thanks for watching! I tried to sprinkle some new stuff in there - small molds are less stressful, so I had time to think :)
This is awesome! I didn't know any Tiki guys were posting on UA-cam!
The info is great, the videos are great, but honestly- I would probably enjoy a video of you just sitting and reading the Manhattan directory. You have so much fun with whatever you do. Thanks for bringing us along; it's a fantastic ride!
Thank you!
These are great! So thorough! I have a dentist friend who I told about these and he is likely watching every one of your videos now he phoned and it felt like a phone call from heaven, he was so happy. Planning space in the next kiln load for his stuff.
I've just found you. Thank you so much, I want to change my professional life and you have given me a wonderful path to follow. Please, Please never stop teaching us. Thank you so much. 1 quick request maybe? Can you please do a video with a list of tools, kiln, underglaze colors, et cetera for beginners. Thank you so much for all your knowledge and generosity.
that's a great idea for a future episode !
This is a great channel, you deserve more subscribers. I learnt a lot, thankyou
Thank you!
I always love to learn from Master Artisans. I learn the entire process. Thank you.
Thank you so much!
Thinking of starting a production ceramic business. Your vids have been invaluable. Can't thank you enough
thanks for watching - glad I could help!
I'm getting ready to move into a mold making position for a jewlery company and while the product is different the work is basically the same. Thank you for this video. It's very knowledgeable.
I’m so glad you found the video! Best of luck in your new position!
I get so excited when there's a new TTT!
Thank you so much for watching!
You gained yourself a subscriber! I just found this one video from you and i thoroughly enjoyed sitting through the whole video like its an educational tv series on the afternoon!! Youre a great teacher and please keep doing amazing :)
Thank you so much for subscribing!
Your videos are awesome! You are a natural and also the production quality is very good. I watched several of your videos in a day and I don't even have any interest in pottery and yet I found your clips very interesting and entertaining.
Thank you so much!!
Thank you kindly for the video and the joy of your teaching and editing style! This will help me immensely as I start up my slip-casting production work. Greetings from Salem! I love Georgies. :)
Thank you for watching! Georgies is the best!
We dont need quick and snappy, we stay put any way ❤
Thank you! 😅
A fabulous , informative and entertaining video. Thank you.
Thank YOU for watching!
Great explanation. I’m a sculptor looking to get into slipcasting, and this was exactly as technical as i needed.
Awesome!
Subscribed. I am so many years away from needing to know how to make my own moulds it's kind of funny, but I'm not going to start resisting my inner need to know everything *now* at my age.
Happy to help you prepare for a moldmaking adventure!
You ubder estimate how interesting the video is. I was already planning to go and fibd the silicone mold video after this one
Thank you so much for this excellent and so detailed tutorial!!! I am working on casting parts of vintage dolls, I just create my first plaster mold, and this tutorial has been a treasure!!! ❤😊
Best of luck with the doll casting!
@@vantikistudio thank you!🙏💗
I have hundreds of ceramic molds if you interested in purchasing some
I'm also excited that 9999 more people find your content absolutely worth their time :D
Me too! Thank you for watching!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. This is exactly what I needed!
Sure thing!! Thank you for watching!
Another fantastic tiki technical Tuesday. Finished it over 3 sittings!!
And I’ve also subscribed and I see the 10k has been unlocked!!
Thank you! I’m so happy about hitting 10k - I appreciate your support!
Never mind next comment. I reloaded you video and the "SAVE" button was THERE ! Tanks for great information.
This video is perfectly timed!
I had plans to start making moulds, starting with something small. Now I just need to find a plastic McD's toy (...they were banned in our country about 8 years ago...). 🤔🤔🤔
Also, you can make this 3hrs long, I'd still watch all of it (maybe in a couple of sittings...).
Thank you! Any simple small toy will do - simple objects (like a ball or an apple) can be great as well, but it is nice to learn from where the seam lines travel on the toys. Glad the episode wasn’t too long - I always worry!
beautiful graphics in your undercut animation! I can appreciate the time that went into making it :D
Thank you! It’s a difficult concept to explain.
This was such a helpful video. Very well done - thank you!
Thanks for watching!
I look forward to all of the videos on your channel and can’t believe you don’t have more followers. Your videos are entertaining and informative. While I am not likely to ever use this, I enjoy going on the journey with you and had zero issues with the length of this one. Looking forward to the video with the testing of coloured ceramics.
So cool to see you make this great educational video.
A few years ago I got back into ceramics and started using sprig molds and I cast my originals in silicone so I could make multiple molds.
The skills one picks up in film are quite transferable to a studio practice.
Your instagram is great too!
So glad you found my channel! Those film techniques have lots of real world uses 😄
Thanks for watching!
@@vantikistudio the quality of the content you are making is amazing and you are so open and honest about your process. Thank you VanTiki!
37:55 - Thank you present-Henrik for persuading future-Henrik on our behalf. Much obliged!
😂
I was thinking,”I don’t remember having issues with my small molds” when I used your tutorials to start off. But now I’m realizing the benefit of 3D printing. I just printed a mold of a mold of a mold and made a silicone master mold straight from the 3D print.
Nice!! I hope to be at that point someday soon - I just need to get competent at Z Brush 🤞
@@vantikistudio i’m going to have to look into that when I don’t have a solidworks license on my personal computer anymore. Definitely more skilled at CAD software than clay so far but I did drop off my first stuff at a studio for firing today so, fingers crossed I didn’t mess up.
@@canorth some other CAD alternatives are Fusion and FreeCAD.
@@fredericapanon207 If I wasn’t so comfy with Solidworks, I’d absolutely use the free ones.
That was so very helpful and so very fun to watch. Thanks!
Thank you!
These videos are great and again thank you!! One thing ive been wondering, as i cant seem to find any of your mugs for sale on your site, is how you go about pricing your Tiki mugs, what factors do you take into account etc. would be amazing to have a video on how you structure your time vs. payouts etc If not your actual numbers just an indication on what a ceramists starting out should consider when setting up to sell, operational equipment , the market etc
Whoo! That would be a tough episode to do, as studio setups and material costs can vary so widely depending on where you are.
@@vantikistudio it is a difficult thing to navigate tho, as an artist attempting to break into the slipcast "scene" I have no idea how to price my product. Obviously quality, your artistry and your years of experience all factor into what people are willing to pay, you also create many many versions of the same mug. From comments you've made I believe you do a pre-sale before slipcasting begins? I guess it all boils down to what you have learnt along the way and what you are prepared to share regarding your business setup. TO BE CLEAR too what you have already shared is truly the most amazing resource for this process and I "we" are very grateful...looking forward to the next one..best
Really nice video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge :D
My pleasure!
This is fantastic! Thank you so much!
Thank YOU for watching!
Love your Ceramic Hobbiest sign (Honolulu), they’re good people.
Wouldn’t be the ceramicist I am today without them!
just watched like 6 of your videos haha..thank you soooo much :))
Exactly the video I’ve been looking for! Thank you! I subscribed for more content, I love your energy!
Thank you for subscribing!
Fantastic explantation
Thank you!
So good. Thank you.
I have a particularly problematic area where I keep getting chipping on a 5 part mold I am trying to make.
It’s not undercut, but it is a tight area with no draft for about 0.5”. It’s driving me crazy.
As I’m typing this I realize perhaps I should put the thinnest sliver of clay there to draft it?
The undercuts animation is amazing. The way you drew it breaking off is painfully accurate hah.
Undercuts and zero draft is the worst! Have you tried to use compressed air to release the part with a tight draft?
Good idea. I have seen that but have not tried it.
I think I may have also not mixed my plaster for long enough. Data sheet has some very helpful plots that I didn’t see until now. Also ordered the book you recommended.
I just found your channel a few days ago and have been binging through all your wonderful videos. Even my 3yr old and 5 yr old enjoy watching them with me. Keep up the good work!
How long do the silicone master molds last?
I’m so glad you found my channel!
I have only been using this silicone for 5 years, and the 5 year old molds I have are in great shape. Back in my FX days the silicones we’d use would begin to tear as they aged and broke down - you’ve inspired me to reach out to the manufacturer and find out how long they think their product will last!
I noticed that you rapped the foam core mould to get the plaster to level.
I remember that in concrete pouring, a vibrator is often used to ensure that the concrete flows properly around the rebar, around any corners and generally avoid any voids.
Would an ultrasonic toothbrush vibrated against the side of the mould walls help with removing any potential bubbles from the plaster? That would also work with casting silicone around a plaster mould.
I have a vibrating tabletop in the studio that really helps when pouring plaster for mold making
@@vantikistudio that would certainly do the trick :-)
Great vid ! Can you use a universal mold release spray on the piece instead of mold release ?
Thank you! I haven’t tried universal mold release, so I’d say to do tests first before committing an important piece to a mold.
Another great video and explanation. Thank you for all your hard work. I did find the Easter egg typo.
Oh no! I haven’t found the typo! 🥺
@@vantikistudio opening. 😄
Congratulations on 10k.
I was looking at your shop and saw a picture of the jack-o-lantern mug you did a while ago. Very neat. Do you think you will ever do anything like that again?
That mug edition is closed - but I may revisit the concept one day!
Regarding vibrations - I've found that a super cheap cordless massager works wonders for vibrating bubbles out of plaster. Way better than banging on the form - though a vibration table would be sweet!
Regarding the plaster trap - are there issues pouring cured plaster down the sink? Uncured plaster would of course be a problem, because if it cures in your pipes, you're in a world of hurt. But what are your thoughts on slices/sludge of cured plaster?
You are right, technically cured plaster bits should be ok down the drain, but I don’t like to risk it. They can still build up on the low spots of your pipes as they are heavier than water. I’d put a mesh screen over your drain if you’re cleaning molds/buckets in your sink to keep the plaster chips out of the drain.
Another beautiful master class! Thanks for sharing your knowledge :)
Thank YOU for watching!
You’re crazy and likeable all in one 😂 hello from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 👋
Thank you so much!
Love the Gunshow T!
One of the best dinners I’ve had in my life!!
Você é simpático. E me senti animada com sua energia.
Great job on the end card :)
Thanks! 😂
Great video...love your style
But need some help. Can i use plaster of parish instead of potter plaster for mold making and how to make casting slip using wet clay.😊
I'm not a fan of plaster of paris - it isn't good for making molds. As for making slip from wet clay I've never tried it. I only use pre-made clay bodies designed for slip casting in the studio.
Excellent as always! Hopefully a helpful hint, if you tip the level on its face, you can level in the X, Y, and diagonal all at once! Hope that wasn't already obvious😊
Good tip!! Thanks!
Thank you for taking the time to teach this process! It's been 20+ years since I made a mould in college for just one assignment. Elementary art teacher and home Potter hobbyist here. I like to work on wheel thrown objects and handbuilding. I'm interested in sculpting a small figurine of my favorite soccer captain. (Acosta, Go FC Cincinnati!) Anyway... I want to bisque fire the master and use a simple glaze on it before casting it's mould. Any tips for finding the center line? He'll be standing in a pose similar to the example you use. I'll have to make sure it's perfectly level and even. I wonder if I could lay the master in a container and pour sand around it to help mark the midline?? Am I overthinking?? Lol Tips for finding the center all the way around would be awesome! Thanks! I wonder if I could lay the bisqueware in a dish then pour a stain up to the midline?? Then it's marked with one color on one side evenly?
Those all sound like interesting ways to find the edges! I’ve seen artists set a piece down on a flat table, then move a right angle around the piece, marking where it makes contact with a small dot as they make their way around the entire model. I hope that makes sense 😃
Thanks so much for your videos. How do you prevent the 2nd half of the plaster mold from sticking to the 1st half ?
Mold soap! At least 3 coats, wiping away and buffing after each coat with a clean soft rag
@@vantikistudio thanks
I love these instructional videos, but I have a question. Why do you drill the keys after the first half is done? Couldn’t you just put a depression/mound in the clay for the first piece?
you definitely can! Sometimes I make clay keys (you can see me do it in my other mold making videos), and sometimes I like the clean keys a drill can make. As long as the shape you make registers the two mold halves together, it's a good key!
Do you have any advice for molding coin sized objects?
For very small objects like coins you may not need to make a mold box/jacket - the silicone block won’t need the support as the piece you’re casting is so small it isn’t likely to distort the mold.
What kind of clay do you use when making the base? I've been following you for a while and then this video came my way again right as I'm in the process of making a small mold with one of my 3d prints as the figure!
its a soft oil based modeling clay - i think it is made by Chavant. For small pieces like this I use oil based clays to make the mold walls, as they don't dry out like water based clay, and are generally much cleaner. WARNING - be sure you use a sulphur free clay, as sulfur can inhibit some silicones. Also, I always use a clay that is softer than the model I am molding
@vantikistudio Thank you!! That's very helpful.
Your video is amazingly helpful! Could you please let me know what the tool at 19:23 called? Thanks!
It’s a round router bit - sometimes called a box bit. You can get them in various diameters - just make sure they have a 1/4” shank to fit in a standard drill.
amzn.to/3xCZKkw
13:00 Have you thought about just using bar clamps instead of your flying buttress idea?
When I do large molds I make the cottle box out of wood and use clamps to hold everything together. For small molds like this I find the foam core buttresses to be the fastest for my process.
I'm diving into this world with my own 3d printed designs, and I had a question:
since the plaster is what wicks away the moisture from the slip, is it possible to have a tiki mug design with 1 part silicone and second part plaster? (specifically a plaster insert forming the interior of the mug/wicking moisture away from the inside out?)
my designs work well for silicone molds but less so for plaster
Interesting idea, but I don’t think it would work - the slip would never “skin” over the silicone sections. It would remain in a liquid state, and when you open the mold it would just pour out. If it did gel (say you left it in the mold for a loooong time) it wouldn’t catch any of the detail in the silicone side - think of trying to cast something out of ketchup.
@ what’s a good place to learn how to make more complex molds like that 9 part one for example, i’m a VFX artist and sculptor, so I can write a shader for example to figure out the draft angle based on various mold splits, but actually making a very complex mold like that would be a really interesting class to learn!
Fantastic video!
Thank you!
I can NOT tell you how very very much I appreciate your videos!! This was so informative and I realllly appreciate it. I’ve never seen anyone cover the holes in the mold. Looks like slices of cheese! Lol. What does this do? Obviously it will help it to not dry out. But why? Also… I wanted to ask you how you only fill the molds once without topping off every few minutes?
Thank you!
@@vantikistudio Would you mind answering my other questions please?
I was thinking 'this is a lengthy video' not that I expected it short but you are very thorough adding little tips, you're not boring to watch so it being longer isn't a hassel.... but I did lose any composure at your excitement at getting to use your vibrating table. I do alot of various diy stuff and have been learning about casting with different molds and materials and even making molds but I like your thoroughness and pace, even if I weren't planning to make my own molds I would have watched this after coming across the video.
So glad you found the video! I often worry that they are too long - but I like to put as much info into them as I can
What kind of slip clay would you use to make a ceramic planter for planting flowers outside?
hmm- will it freeze outside where you will put the pots? If so, I'd use a stoneware slip like the one I use in the studio - low fire slips don't completely vitrify and can get moisture seeping into them that can freeze and crack the clay.
@@vantikistudio Where would I buy that? sorry If you have already said that somewhere. I havnt watched all your videos yet.
Does adding some alcohol (as a wetting agent) in to the plaster mix make it cast smoother and release trapped bubbles better ? Would evaporate before mix cures ....
I wouldn’t want to take away from the water or dilute the water in the mix - it’s necessary for the plaster to properly set (the rehydration of the gypsum is part of the chemical reaction that makes the liquid plaster turn to stone). I do find a spritz of alcohol after pouring helps to break any surface bubbles
Melhor vídeo explicativo. Com detalhes relevantes. Parabéns.
Hi! Love the video! Super useful, quick question! How would you suggest finding the centerline when the prototype does not have this obvious seamline?
Good question! One way is to hold the shape out, and close one eye. Move a pencil tip slowly around the edge - if the pencil tip disappears behind the model, that is an undercut. Mark a line with the pencil at the exact point before the tip moves behind the model - I hope this makes sense! 😅
Can we add some glue with plaster to make mold stronger and prevent cracking?
I know of several folks who make additives for gypsum that make it stronger for architectural use - but I would worry that it would affect the absorption qualities of the plaster and make slipcasting difficult
Question? Can you use a silicone mold to be used to make porcelain cast figures?
I wish! Sadly the mold needs to be porous plaster for the slipcasting process to work.
Hi, how did you remove he air bubbles from the silicone withiut using a vacuum chamber?
I find if I mix carefully and pour a thin steady stream I don’t have issues with bubbles. I picked this silicone specifically because it works well for me without vacuum de-airing (it sets too quickly I feel for using a vacuum chamber). I talk more about my silicone choice here:
ua-cam.com/video/12UahLu-NYw/v-deo.htmlsi=04KmjhrscV05_N4s
@@vantikistudio interesting! This will come in handy for large molds. Thank you for your great knowledge - my kids and I have started slip casting and they're excited to start selling!
We had a mold make of my late daughter's hand. It was made with plaster of paris, I believe. I would like to make additional molds.
How would I make a copy? I have heard that you can coat it with several layers of latex to make a negative to make more molds.
Great question! I’d recommend using silicone to make a flexible mold of the plaster hand - mainly because it has a low shrink rate and the castings would be the same size as the original hand. Smooth on makes a two part silicone putty that is like silky putty. It sets quickly and you could mold your hand with that.
Could you please link the silicone which you use for molding 😇
I use Rebound 40, and go into the reasons it works for me here:
Making a Slipcast Mug pt3: Silicone Mold Making! - Tiki Technical Tuesday
ua-cam.com/video/12UahLu-NYw/v-deo.html
@@vantikistudio thank you so much👍
Hi, I'm trying to make a plaster mold for my ceramic project. It's a wax candle (figure) and it is kind of complicated form to start with. I don't know where to find a center line. Do you mind if you can check to see if it's even possible to make one? I could send pics or vidoe for you to see.
It’s very hard to give moldmaking advice without being able to hold the model - My advice is to hold the model away at arms length, and mark the edge of what you can see to find a rough parting line.
Thx for the Inspiration
41:34
What kind of plastic backing do you use, sir?
Those are sheets of foam core - it’s a foam/paper sandwich used for posters/models/etc
Hi, wondering about your choice of Rebound 40. I'm trying to save some money with the master mold making process. Have you tried Urethane rubber for making your molds? Econ 60 Urethane runs about half the cost of Rebound 40 and on paper looks like it would work. I looked at the tin cures that smooth on makes but the combination of long set time and need for a vacuum degasser make the cost savings seem moot.
You can definitely save $$ using urethane, and many artists I know go that route. I’ve used it in the past with good results, but it has some issues that can lead to disaster. It is VERY stiff (which can be a good thing - you don’t need wood boxes for your molds), but it is also VERY sticky. It’s essentially a glue, and if you don’t release your model well it will bond permanently. Another factor is it’s moisture sensitivity (moisture will cause it to foam and it will inhibit the cure) and I’ve had the water in plaster molds inhibit the urethane which left me with a sticky mess all over my model. Lastly, (and this is the same for silicone) you need to mix it very well or it won’t set. Unlike silicone, the two parts are not different colors giving g you a good visual of the quality of your mixing. That being said, it is MUCH cheaper!
Why didn't you insert marks on the first half of the mold while wet by pressing in a rounded piece of wood or whatever? Drilling it when it's still curing puts a lot of tension on the plaster and might crack it.
Is there a certain reason for doing it this way? Or did you just forget to make them?
You can totally press a round sale into the clay - I often build keys into my clay walls that way. I find I get cleaner keys when doing round keys by drilling them into the plaster. I’ve never had any issues with the plaster cracking.
Great video!!
Thank you!
When tupperware/rubbermaid containers *used to be more affordable, that was my go-to enclosure for anything that might have fit for my reusable mold box. I was a prolific foam core user for a long time, but if/when you find yourself duping the same size shapes and just need a quick off-the-shelf solution, I'd reach for those old containers before the glue gun. Now it's about even anymore as the containers are so thin, you might get two uses out of one, but you get the added benefit that they have draft angles built in for easier removal.
In a true tit-for-tat, I've tried a lot of release agents from home brew to commercial options, though depending on what mold material you're using, the 'ceramic' car wax works great for just about everything except silicone (as I later found out, that 'ceramic' component is just watered down silicone, literally, which in my book barely qualifies as ceramic). The stuff in the 16-32oz spray bottles last A LONG time. I used to go for carnauba wax layers, but things with exothermic reactions will definitely melt through wax, including things that use epoxy. Vaseline is good for those things but it's messy and time consuming during removal. I'll definitely have to try out the murphy soap as an alternative!
Another wall material I’ve seen folks use are LEGO bricks - they seem to work great and can be set up in multiple sizes. I just don’t have any in the studio, and while I could probably search for a bunch of used bricks foamcore suits my needs, and it’s super fast (time is always the key in production)
@@vantikistudio Interesting! I've never even thought of legos. My kids have piles of them; heck, free labor, and surely they can be coerced to make a box. 😁
One question I would like to make a 3D mold of a craft skate I have the skate however what should I put in between the blade and boot part? Thanks
I really couldn't say without seeing the piece. Is there a ceramics supply store near you that you could contact? They may know of a local mold maker who could give you advice.
Thank you for the reply No I don't have anyone around to ask
What's the foam board thickness you are using?
I think it’s 3/16” - just shy of a quarter inch.
Thank you for the class
Thank you for watching 🤙
How thick do you make your silicone for the master mold? How much extra beyond the flat plaster edge?
Usually between a half inch to an inch. I go deeper into it here:
ua-cam.com/video/s_st3s5GKzY/v-deo.html
Just so you know, pressure is a function of height, you would need them for a tall mold but not a shallow mold, even if the mold is very wide.
You get into surface tension fun at very thin molds but a 4 inch wide and 15 inch tall mold would need extensive buttressing.
Yes! Totally with you on the height = pressure. Even on small molds like this I put the buttresses in as the silicone has a high specific gravity and I want to just play it safe 😄
where would you buy your pry points?
Here’s a link!
amzn.to/2YY0WtD
great video!
Thank you so much!