I being a former Dealer Jeep Tech, use grease on the seals ALL (3); and junk the purolator oil filter, get a mopar and grease the seal also. That's what I did my 92' xj. No leaks and eazy oil filter changes!
I appreciate you recording your mishaps and miscalculations. Ty for being human! I have had my 91 XJ for a couple of years and this is my favorite vehicle ever!
Hey Tim! I did mine last August along with rear main oil pan and valve cover [thx for the vids on those]. Used a t60 in a set from advanced auto. Hammered out the bit and loosened it with a 12mm and a brakerbar accessed from the bottom. Maybe mine was easier cuz it was hot out. Anyhow I changed the seals.. got an Oem pack of 3 from the dealership. When i finished i put the T60 back together and returned the Torx set! Great job on the Vid. Keep em coming!
Did this recently. Some tips I learned: Advance Auto Parts sells a T60 with a shorter bit than others I’ve seen. Gives a little more clearance. Using two other sockets like a pushing bolt/receiving cup pressed in a workbench vice works well to easily remove the T60 bit from the holder with no pounding. A piece of duct or black wire tape around the bit makes it fit snugly in the wrench. A large enough buddy wrench on the 12mm was enough leverage to bust mine loose. Finally, it would be hard to imagine doing this job without a ratcheting wrench. Hope that helps someone.
That's a good fix, but here's what I did on my 92 after some research. I removed that whole adapter thing, removed the dowel pin from the block, transferred the longer threaded pipe from that adapter into the block, and screwed the small filter directly to the block. Its a tight fit but the small filter will go in there. No leaks ever again in that area.
There are 3 O-rings. The other two are on the bolt itself. This is why I recommend getting the kit from the dealership. It's like $15, but you get everything you need. It's very likely your adapter will start leaking again. Also, this job is MUCH easier if you undo the engine mounts and jack up the engine. It'll give you enough room to use an unmodified torx bit with a breaker bar. It's the perfect opportunity to replace/upgrade your engine mounts
Ah man, what about the other two O-rings in there? There's two more inside there, where the bolt goes through to the engine block. Should have all 3 of these O-rings: 0.676 x 0.070 AS568 size -017, 0.859 x 0.139 AS568 size -212, and 2.484 x 0.139 AS568 size -230. I'd be a shame not to get all three of them replaced. I just did mine two days ago and all three rings were hardened and flat. They were all shot.
There are 3 o rings in that 90 degree filter adapter. One between the block and adapter and 2 on the bolt that holds the adapter to the block. The one near the head of the bolt can also cause a external oil leak. The complete 3 piece o ring kit is available online for $2 plus shipping.
I'm about to buy a 92 cherokee that's been sitting for 5 years (been ran 2 years ago, but didn't move) so I'm watching your videos to bone up on what the common problems/leaks are. Thank you for having decent information and showing what you're doing.
I also struggled to remove this adapter when i did the adapter delete. (I don't recomend the delete, but was unable to source the 3 o-ring kit.) I used the T-60 key, like you got, cut short with a 12mm, 3/8 drive socket and breaker to break it loose.
I love the videos, even though I have been a mechanic for years your videos help me quickly diagnose repair my 90 XJ. Saves me hours of diagnostics. Thank you. 😎👍🏼
good showing to have put this together. you've done us all a service. after 10 months of losing 1 qt/week i finally dove into the job. took about an hour with $2. o-ring from NAPA. chop-saw open end of a 12mm 12-point wrench. so its handle would fit inside a 18" piece of 1/2" iron pipe. .. and the box end would go around the t-60 the arc of swing available after moving the cruise cable and some wires out of the way was only about 30 degrees. that is enough though. once loosened with the t-60 bit, the 12mm wrench and the pipe the bolt was loosened the last 10 turns or so with a 8" slip wrench. this meant bending over in that way that strains your back to be in that position so long. one thing i'd do different next time is use grease to hold the new o-ring in place. instead of just the engine oil. too much chance it could fall off during those moments getting the thread to engage when re- attaching the adapter. on checking the oil level dipstik each morning it is spot on where its been since this job. no wet puddles under the jeep either when parked. your video was the final nudge i needed to get going , even tho its winter here in colorado. and increasingly when i tell someone this story and mention viewing a u-tube how-to video others smile w/ understanding.
That's funky my 91 XJ has the exact same adapter but 180 instead of 90 degrees, same mess and embarrassment and extra quarts here n there, plus the environment... T60 as well, the guy at Sears thought I was out of my mind and I second guessed myself, nope that's a damn T60, probably the only use for this bit that I can think of. Thanks for the video, cheers!
at orillies i got the L wrenches that are torx and at lowes i got a 1/2 black iron pipe about 1 1/2 feet and used it like that to get it off really good
@@dynasty_c63amg59 not sure, i actually went to the parts dept of a local dealership to have them look it up and bought it there, if memory serves it was under $20
When I did mine, I used a t60 3/8 drive that was molded as one piece, not the typical two piece socket ones, then I took the threaded piece out of the adapter and installed just that piece back in the motor to eliminate the adapter, and now I just use a filter from a 2005 Toyota tundra to have the clearance from the unit frame, I'm sure there are other filters that will work I just know of that one cause I had it laying around, but now I don't have to worry about the adapter leaking ever again
It is a great fix. I pulled passenger side motor mount. Rocked engine to the driver side. Actually used an old oil filter gasket due to no parts store having a gasket.
On my 95 ZJ I got rid of the 90 degree fitting all together. The oil filter will screw directly on to the engine block where that 90 degree fitting went.
I remember a ratcheting wrench helped a bit on this job. After doing oil pan, rear main, valve cover, distributor gasket, and oil adapter I still have a little bit of oil still getting on bell housing. Noticed my head gasket on passenger side seeps. Never ending!
I believe you spoke wrong when you mentioned a tube that feeds the oil pressure sender. That "tube" is a roll pin. It's to keep the adapter oriented. Someone discovered if you remove that roll pin you can find an oil filter that fits the block withOUT the adapter... smaller filter but solves all those "O" ring problems.
I used the handle from my 3T floor jack to fit over my 12mm wrench and got it from the top. Threw the adapter away and bought a 3614 size oil filter and some poly motor mounts. Now my jeep uses the same oil filter as my car and it's SO much easier to change.
When I did mine, I found that an L-key t-60 and a pipe for extra leverage was by far the easiest way to go. I had to order it online from a specialty tool store. Those bits can be a real pain to try to get out of the socket.
I did mine last year 2001 XJ. There are at least 2 o rings if not 3 on there. I wish I could remember. DEFINITELY 2! (edited) Yup there are 3!!!!! Push the bolt out of the adapter. There are 2 on that shaft.) To remove the torx bit I placed the socket under my floor jack and lifted the Jeep a bit. It was the only way I could find to hold it tight enough to hit it with a punch. I was able to remove the adapter from the top. Something I do to loosen a stuck bolt is to put hard even pressure on it. Hold it for a bit. Try more than once. Think of opening a stuck jar. Someone tries and tries and a bit later it comes off with ease. I find this works with frozen bolts. Hitting or yanking on it can break the bolt.
I struggled with mine and did it the same way. You had a great idea with the socket if you grinded the bottom of the torques bit to get more clearance. Btw my 94 had 3 o-rings
GREAT INFORMATION! READ THIS ALSO! Ok, so I just took on this project today on my 2000. What I thought would be about 2 hrs. ended up taking almost 4 1/2! A few other things to add that might help you if you’re going to do this. Definitely need a 3/8 breaker bar and a 2 foot long piece of pipe.You can try to break it loose from the top, yes it seems easier but, go at it from underneath, the angle is far better and less likely to destroy the torques head. (Then you’re screwed)! You shouldn’t need a torch, just make sure the motor is at temperature! Remove the 15mm frame bolt in your way. That gave me just enough room to get the breaker bar and T-60 head on with a 12 mm socket, (barely). Then SNAP, she finally broke loose, (then finish from the top).Also, use a bit of putty or even super glue or gum to keep the T-60 on! It’ll piss you off how many times it falls out! O’Reilly had the Felpro O ring kit in stock for 4.99$. ES72962 invoice # 170-202304
I replaced just about every gasket/seal on my 4.0 (rear main, oil pan, filter adapter, distributor, valve cover, etc.) and it still pissed oil everywhere. But that’s because it had bad piston rings and there was so much blowby that it was too much for the pcv valve so all the extra pressure in the crankcase that couldn’t escape through the pcv valve was forcing its way through a seal somewhere which caused it to leak A LOT. Unfortunately this was when I was in high school and I didn’t have money to rebuild it so I had to sell the jeep
I drive a 2000 Cherokee Sport that I have already had the top and bottom engine gaskets replaced, yes both spots were leaking. It looks like oil filter adapter O-ring like in your video is the culprit on an oil leak I still have. I do a lot of things myself, but this is not going to one of them. I have a shop that does all my Jeep work I don't do so I'll leave this up to them. Great video.........
The oil adapter ring, the dizzy ring and the dipstick tube are the main leaks in the upper part, the rear seal is also a leaky part, then the cranck case ventilation ports in teh valve cover also like to leak oil
Did this today. Took maybe 45 minutes and I was in no rush. Pounded out the bit from a T60 socket I had, inserted into the bolt, put a 12mm wrench on it, grabbed the end of the jack handle and it popped right off. Cranking it out was the worst part. Slow with not a lot of room to work. Once out, remove and replace o rings and reinstall. Easy stuff and should have done is sooner.
The accessibility of the bolt was fixed in later year, post 1998 obviously. More than likely in 2000 with the coil on plug newer system, without the distributor, because with my 2001 I could use a 1/2 socket wrench with theT-60.
I've been avoiding doing this on my 91 but now I know how to get to the bolt. I'll do it once spring rolls around since the oil leak is keeping my XJ underbody rust free
my son is a Ford Ranger nut and he has a special long 12 point wrench for his driveshaft. it would be perfect for this application. has a massively long handle and a box end on each end one is 12mm and i think other is 14mm
I did mine today and I had to remove some steering linkages off the front so I can get a cheater pipe on my wrench... then after that it popped right loose. I also replaced all 3 o rings and I didn't have any trouble getting the bolt screwed back in but I have been mechanic for 20 odd years....great video though because after all my years this jeep always has something new and weird go wrong with it...lol and it's good to get different ideas
Tim...Thank you for posting this. I have putting this off for the longest time but haven't really found any material on it. I have burned up 2 starters from the oil that drips onto them. This is much needed. Maybe think about doing other quick fixes in the future. BTW Love the 2 DR XJ.
They make allen wrenches with those torx ends. I don't know what they're called, but having a set for this and other things would be swell. I've thought of buying some over the past half year because I have encountered more than enough situations to warrant. If they sold them at the local hardware store I would've bought some, but I'm impatient so I just find shade'tree engineering methods more to my liking. I've only had to take that thing off with the engine out so I haven't had to deal with this fiasco, although knowing for sure that clearance is a pain I will certainly be considering a set of those as my next necessary tool purchase.
Nice, I've been trying to do the same thing with my 97 XJ but cold weather, not wanting to do it keeps me from a spotless driveway. I will take charge and complete it next weekend. Thanks for the video. Awesome.
Btw.. you want to put a layer of oil on the o-rings on bolt, but I cleaned the o-ring surface for the housing with brakekleen, wipes it, then installed it.. makes a better seal when it’s dry..
Just did mine a few weeks ago. PITA! I used a socket wrench and mistakenly backed it out so far that the back of the wrench got stuck against the unibody. It was too tight to flip the wrench switch to drive it back forward a bit. Took me 45 extra minutes.
0n my 92 cherokee instead of a torx its a bolt head, something to look for in the scrap yard if you're going to be replacing/doing this job... dude you totally missed replacing orings while you had this out. however judging by the difficulty you had reinstalling/starting the bolt the ones you missed are probably still good. I recomend you replace the torx bolt with the bolt off an older jeep so itll be easier in the future if you ever need to do this job again
You can use part of that adapter with the male-male threads, screw it straight into the block, and use a smaller filter and just skip the 90 degree adapter altogether. I think it’s fram ph3614.
Thanks bleepingjeep I found my problem to my oil leak and it's my adapter and I even took pics of the leak to make sure it was that and it is. Once again thanks for providing this info and I'll fix my adapter.
Thank you for your great detailed video. I greatly appreciate all the side notes... the unnecessary footage that so many others omit. I watched this and feel prepared to attack my jeep without any doubts. Again.... thank you so much!
Just swapped a 99 Tj 4.0 in my 99 XJ and while yes it is a snug fit to the unibody you can still change the oil with relative ease, you only need to move the one starter wire out of your way with one hand and, then finagle the filter into place and tighten it. Idk why Jeep just didn't use this style instead of the adaptor. Yes the adaptor made oil changes easier but it was still about the same with this new motor, so my recommendation is if your 97-99 XJ motor blows try to find a 97-99 TJ motor to swap in.
Hey there, I reccently did this and found some great advice to jack the engine up from the oil pan (using a piece of wood to distribute the pressure) and then removing the enging mounting bolt and then jack it up about another 2 inches and you'll be able to get a breaker bar in there easier from the top which then allows you to use the largest breaker bar tube or cheater tube to get maximum leverage. Mine was about 1.5m long lol
I did this two months ago and I’m seeing almost zero leaking from my 99 on the ground. Except I am now seeing some from the differential seal on the rear. At least it ain’t motor oil!
Great video...I will let my mechanic know about this...I've had just about everything else replaced that could have caused it to leak oil! Sure wish he would have tried this first!!!!!
Thank you for a great video. I had to change my crank shaft white waiting on the mopar part I did an oil change. Ouch the oil filter for the life of me would not budge filter was crumbling into a collapsed mess. Finally with a bit of wd40 got it loose. changed the filter hand tight
So 3 years later, how’s it holding up? I’ve just ordered the filter adapter gasket, valve cover gasket, rear main and oil pan gasket. Gonna have the front axle out for a long arm kit, so might as well go for all of them!
Valve cover gasket is easy except for the furthest most rear bolt that’s more towards driver side but furthest back. Super pain. I usually take the upper rad hose off when doing this repair.
Mine started leaking at a car meet. Took it out had no rtv but had some window silicone that got me home. I replaced the orings the next day. Yes it was a pits but I had a hex bolt instead of the torx
The bolt isn’t a captured bolt it has an o ring on the bolt itself that you should replace as well. And not all xjs have the torx style some have a hex head bolt which I converted mine to makes it so nice.
If you take the motor mount bolt out of the sides of the oil doctor is on the engine jack up the motor enough to get a socket ratchet on their breakover bar and make it really easy
You did not replace the o-rings on the bolt. I welded the t-60 into the wrench for my 98 Cherokee. My 94 Cherokee had a 14mm allen. You should have pushed the bolts out though.
I have a 1 piece Cornwell T60, grinded flat sides on it to fit a 7/8 wrench, then put a longer wrench on the end of that, then used my foot to break it loose.. those things are tight..
I did this. That old, hard, flattened out, leaking O-ring isn't just another used up part to be thrown away. That thing is a war trophy. (One O-ring on a 1996.)
Cut the bit down to the point where that shallow socket would just cover over the splines and you should have had enough space. Then epoxy it in after the job and designate that to this specific job!
After breaking 2 t60s and twisting a 3rd I see now that bolt just comes that tight. My o-ring came out in 2 piece. Tiny bit more room in ZJ. I hear some lifters rattling, next video?
its still tight because there's two o- rings on the bolt, for those watching this video for how to info tap on the big bolt that was threaded into the block and it'll come apart and you'll find two more o-rings you need to replace
Questions about this project: Apparently it’s tough as heck to get this part off- should red thread locker be used on reinstall? Does this bolt need to be torqued? If so, how much or do you bottom that bolt out? Great video! Great viewer comments! Thanks
Need to do this to my '01 XJ for the second time. Last time, I paid a shop. This time, I've run into all the same problems, but my T60 is 10mm shaft instead of 12mm and I've destroyed one cheap wrench already. Guess I should pony up for a good quality forged wrench that won't turn into spaghetti.
Hey, an easier way of doing that is to thread a pipe for the end of your oil filter adapter, and just screw the pipe on in place of your oil filter and you have an instant lever.
Good video, but I have one little piece of advice to ad to it. If you are planning to reuse your oil filter, which you should not, even if it is a day old, at least cover it and protect it from getting any trash in it. Any debris that gets into it obviously could get into the motor.
I didn’t know about this when I changed my oil and I thought it was the pan bolt because they have the copper washer replaced that and nothing thanks for the tip to get it off
I being a former Dealer Jeep Tech, use grease on the seals ALL (3); and junk the purolator oil filter, get a mopar and grease the seal also. That's what I did my 92' xj. No leaks and eazy oil filter changes!
greg a purolator makes the oil filters for mopar lol
what kinda grease do you recommend
@@abrahambarkhordar5572 any kind of wheel bearing grease is ok, better than old engine oil🙂
I appreciate you recording your mishaps and miscalculations. Ty for being human!
I have had my 91 XJ for a couple of years and this is my favorite vehicle ever!
The correct part for ALL 3 O-Rings by FEL-PRO is ES 72962 and in stock at 5000+ O'Reilly Auto Parts stores!
So I'm seeing some comments that only two of the O-ring fit on AutoZone's website for that part
Or is AutoZone customer just a dumbass cuz both comments say the same thing
youre the real mvp
I got that part number for a 96 GC base oring was too thin.
@@saintm1680 I don't know what to tell you but, I know it worked for me and every customer I've sold it to.
Hey Tim! I did mine last August along with rear main oil pan and valve cover [thx for the vids on those]. Used a t60 in a set from advanced auto. Hammered out the bit and loosened it with a 12mm and a brakerbar accessed from the bottom. Maybe mine was easier cuz it was hot out. Anyhow I changed the seals.. got an Oem pack of 3 from the dealership. When i finished i put the T60 back together and returned the Torx set! Great job on the Vid. Keep em coming!
Did this recently. Some tips I learned: Advance Auto Parts sells a T60 with a shorter bit than others I’ve seen. Gives a little more clearance. Using two other sockets like a pushing bolt/receiving cup pressed in a workbench vice works well to easily remove the T60 bit from the holder with no pounding. A piece of duct or black wire tape around the bit makes it fit snugly in the wrench. A large enough buddy wrench on the 12mm was enough leverage to bust mine loose. Finally, it would be hard to imagine doing this job without a ratcheting wrench. Hope that helps someone.
That's a good fix, but here's what I did on my 92 after some research. I removed that whole adapter thing, removed the dowel pin from the block, transferred the longer threaded pipe from that adapter into the block, and screwed the small filter directly to the block. Its a tight fit but the small filter will go in there. No leaks ever again in that area.
Did the same on my 2001xj today after putting it off for seven months. Bear of a job.
There are 3 O-rings. The other two are on the bolt itself. This is why I recommend getting the kit from the dealership. It's like $15, but you get everything you need. It's very likely your adapter will start leaking again.
Also, this job is MUCH easier if you undo the engine mounts and jack up the engine. It'll give you enough room to use an unmodified torx bit with a breaker bar. It's the perfect opportunity to replace/upgrade your engine mounts
gui577b felpro has an oring kit too. And maule.
Thank you for this comment!
Ah man, what about the other two O-rings in there? There's two more inside there, where the bolt goes through to the engine block. Should have all 3 of these O-rings: 0.676 x 0.070 AS568 size -017, 0.859 x 0.139 AS568 size -212, and 2.484 x 0.139 AS568 size -230. I'd be a shame not to get all three of them replaced. I just did mine two days ago and all three rings were hardened and flat. They were all shot.
Seen the same thing on a few other vids of this project
That's what I was thinking.
SOMEONE SHOULD PIN THIS POST
Finally someone who speaks o-ring. You are the only person I've seen listing the AS568 dash numbers for these O-rings - thanks for that!
Can I get these at autozone? And if so what do I ask for?
There are 3 o rings in that 90 degree filter adapter. One between the block and adapter and 2 on the bolt that holds the adapter to the block. The one near the head of the bolt can also cause a external oil leak. The complete 3 piece o ring kit is available online for $2 plus shipping.
Got a part number or link? Thanks
Not in the later years
I'm about to buy a 92 cherokee that's been sitting for 5 years (been ran 2 years ago, but didn't move) so I'm watching your videos to bone up on what the common problems/leaks are. Thank you for having decent information and showing what you're doing.
I also struggled to remove this adapter when i did the adapter delete. (I don't recomend the delete, but was unable to source the 3 o-ring kit.) I used the T-60 key, like you got, cut short with a 12mm, 3/8 drive socket and breaker to break it loose.
I love the videos, even though I have been a mechanic for years your videos help me quickly diagnose repair my 90 XJ. Saves me hours of diagnostics. Thank you. 😎👍🏼
Cut 1/8 inch off each end of bit, gain another 1/4 inch clearance.
good showing to have put this together. you've done us all a service.
after 10 months of losing 1 qt/week i finally dove into the job.
took about an hour with $2. o-ring from NAPA.
chop-saw open end of a 12mm 12-point wrench. so its handle would fit
inside a 18" piece of 1/2" iron pipe. .. and the box end would go around
the t-60
the arc of swing available after moving the
cruise cable and some wires out of the way was only about 30 degrees.
that is enough though. once loosened with the t-60 bit, the 12mm wrench and the pipe
the bolt was loosened the last 10 turns or so with a 8" slip wrench.
this meant bending over in that way that strains your back to be in that position so long.
one thing i'd do different next time is use grease to hold the new o-ring
in place. instead of just the engine oil. too much chance it could fall off during
those moments getting the thread to engage when re- attaching the adapter.
on checking the oil level dipstik each morning it is spot on where its been since this job.
no wet puddles under the jeep either when parked.
your video was the final nudge i needed to get going , even tho its winter here
in colorado.
and increasingly when i tell someone this story and mention viewing a u-tube
how-to video others smile w/ understanding.
That's funky my 91 XJ has the exact same adapter but 180 instead of 90 degrees, same mess and embarrassment and extra quarts here n there, plus the environment... T60 as well, the guy at Sears thought I was out of my mind and I second guessed myself, nope that's a damn T60, probably the only use for this bit that I can think of. Thanks for the video, cheers!
at orillies i got the L wrenches that are torx and at lowes i got a 1/2 black iron pipe about 1 1/2 feet and used it like that to get it off really good
witnesszer0 i gotta try that when i do mine!
witnesszer0 Right on!
I really have been avoiding this!! It’s my next fix. Thanks for your work.
Always looking forward to your next video, Tim!
Did this a few years ago on my 92. Thankfully mine wasn’t a torx but an actual bolt head. Slightly easier but still put up a hell of a fight.
What part is it the one for a 97 jeep charge would not work
@@dynasty_c63amg59 not sure, i actually went to the parts dept of a local dealership to have them look it up and bought it there, if memory serves it was under $20
When I did mine, I used a t60 3/8 drive that was molded as one piece, not the typical two piece socket ones, then I took the threaded piece out of the adapter and installed just that piece back in the motor to eliminate the adapter, and now I just use a filter from a 2005 Toyota tundra to have the clearance from the unit frame, I'm sure there are other filters that will work I just know of that one cause I had it laying around, but now I don't have to worry about the adapter leaking ever again
It is a great fix. I pulled passenger side motor mount. Rocked engine to the driver side. Actually used an old oil filter gasket due to no parts store having a gasket.
On my 95 ZJ I got rid of the 90 degree fitting all together. The oil filter will screw directly on to the engine block where that 90 degree fitting went.
It fits?
I'm going to try on my 93 zj. Hope it works
My 94 had 3 o rings that needed changed. I also bent a 12mm snap on wrench in doing this! Good helpful video!
I remember a ratcheting wrench helped a bit on this job. After doing oil pan, rear main, valve cover, distributor gasket, and oil adapter I still have a little bit of oil still getting on bell housing. Noticed my head gasket on passenger side seeps. Never ending!
I believe you spoke wrong when you mentioned a tube that feeds the oil pressure sender. That "tube" is a roll pin. It's to keep the adapter oriented. Someone discovered if you remove that roll pin you can find an oil filter that fits the block withOUT the adapter... smaller filter but solves all those "O" ring problems.
Wait! What? ―Ref' or UA-cam video?
I found the “Ford” large oil filter fits very well.
What filter is that exactly?
I think I am going to go outside and hug my TJ for not having one of these. Good video!
I used the handle from my 3T floor jack to fit over my 12mm wrench and got it from the top. Threw the adapter away and bought a 3614 size oil filter and some poly motor mounts. Now my jeep uses the same oil filter as my car and it's SO much easier to change.
When I did mine, I found that an L-key t-60 and a pipe for extra leverage was by far the easiest way to go. I had to order it online from a specialty tool store. Those bits can be a real pain to try to get out of the socket.
Here you go.
www.homedepot.com/p/Bondhus-T60-Torx-Long-Arm-L-Wrench-with-ProGuard-Tagged-and-Barcoded-31860/302011792
That is exactly how I did mine the last wrench was a great help
I did mine last year 2001 XJ. There are at least 2 o rings if not 3 on there. I wish I could remember. DEFINITELY 2! (edited) Yup there are 3!!!!! Push the bolt out of the adapter. There are 2 on that shaft.) To remove the torx bit I placed the socket under my floor jack and lifted the Jeep a bit. It was the only way I could find to hold it tight enough to hit it with a punch. I was able to remove the adapter from the top. Something I do to loosen a stuck bolt is to put hard even pressure on it. Hold it for a bit. Try more than once. Think of opening a stuck jar. Someone tries and tries and a bit later it comes off with ease. I find this works with frozen bolts. Hitting or yanking on it can break the bolt.
I did it with out cutting it, I fixed a box end on the shaft of the torx and then plugged it in the screw and it worked fine
Good information for owners of this vehicle. Thanks for posting the information, greatly appreciated.
I struggled with mine and did it the same way. You had a great idea with the socket if you grinded the bottom of the torques bit to get more clearance. Btw my 94 had 3 o-rings
GREAT INFORMATION! READ THIS ALSO! Ok, so I just took on this project today on my 2000. What I thought would be about 2 hrs. ended up taking almost 4 1/2! A few other things to add that might help you if you’re going to do this. Definitely need a 3/8 breaker bar and a 2 foot long piece of pipe.You can try to break it loose from the top, yes it seems easier but, go at it from underneath, the angle is far better and less likely to destroy the torques head. (Then you’re screwed)! You shouldn’t need a torch, just make sure the motor is at temperature! Remove the 15mm frame bolt in your way. That gave me just enough room to get the breaker bar and T-60 head on with a 12 mm socket, (barely). Then SNAP, she finally broke loose, (then finish from the top).Also, use a bit of putty or even super glue or gum to keep the T-60 on! It’ll piss you off how many times it falls out! O’Reilly had the Felpro O ring kit in stock for 4.99$. ES72962 invoice # 170-202304
I replaced just about every gasket/seal on my 4.0 (rear main, oil pan, filter adapter, distributor, valve cover, etc.) and it still pissed oil everywhere. But that’s because it had bad piston rings and there was so much blowby that it was too much for the pcv valve so all the extra pressure in the crankcase that couldn’t escape through the pcv valve was forcing its way through a seal somewhere which caused it to leak A LOT. Unfortunately this was when I was in high school and I didn’t have money to rebuild it so I had to sell the jeep
Glad this came out now! Will be replacing mine while my engine is out. In two weeks it would have been too late.
I drive a 2000 Cherokee Sport that I have already had the top and bottom engine gaskets replaced, yes both spots were leaking. It looks like oil filter adapter O-ring like in your video is the culprit on an oil leak I still have. I do a lot of things myself, but this is not going to one of them. I have a shop that does all my Jeep work I don't do so I'll leave this up to them. Great video.........
Have you ever thought about relocating the oil filter to the top of engine bay? Such as they do on mercruiser.
The oil adapter ring, the dizzy ring and the dipstick tube are the main leaks in the upper part, the rear seal is also a leaky part, then the cranck case ventilation ports in teh valve cover also like to leak oil
Just put some black or gray rtv on the surface works great ...last longer then O ring.. I have done this with 2 xj’s...
Wats rvt?? And were can I buy some
Did this today. Took maybe 45 minutes and I was in no rush. Pounded out the bit from a T60 socket I had, inserted into the bolt, put a 12mm wrench on it, grabbed the end of the jack handle and it popped right off. Cranking it out was the worst part. Slow with not a lot of room to work. Once out, remove and replace o rings and reinstall. Easy stuff and should have done is sooner.
The accessibility of the bolt was fixed in later year, post 1998 obviously. More than likely in 2000 with the coil on plug newer system, without the distributor, because with my 2001 I could use a 1/2 socket wrench with theT-60.
Dylan Cox That would have been SO nice!
I've been avoiding doing this on my 91 but now I know how to get to the bolt.
I'll do it once spring rolls around since the oil leak is keeping my XJ underbody rust free
my son is a Ford Ranger nut and he has a special long 12 point wrench for his driveshaft. it would be perfect for this application. has a massively long handle and a box end on each end one is 12mm and i think other is 14mm
I did mine today and I had to remove some steering linkages off the front so I can get a cheater pipe on my wrench... then after that it popped right loose. I also replaced all 3 o rings and I didn't have any trouble getting the bolt screwed back in but I have been mechanic for 20 odd years....great video though because after all my years this jeep always has something new and weird go wrong with it...lol and it's good to get different ideas
Tim...Thank you for posting this. I have putting this off for the longest time but haven't really found any material on it. I have burned up 2 starters from the oil that drips onto them. This is much needed. Maybe think about doing other quick fixes in the future. BTW Love the 2 DR XJ.
Two O-rings One for the bolt towards the torx end and the large one you replaced. Thx for the torx wrench tip.
Yes a large Ford oil filter works great on a 4.0 L jeep with the 90 degree oil filter adapter. Such as part number 51515 from WIX.
They make allen wrenches with those torx ends. I don't know what they're called, but having a set for this and other things would be swell. I've thought of buying some over the past half year because I have encountered more than enough situations to warrant. If they sold them at the local hardware store I would've bought some, but I'm impatient so I just find shade'tree engineering methods more to my liking. I've only had to take that thing off with the engine out so I haven't had to deal with this fiasco, although knowing for sure that clearance is a pain I will certainly be considering a set of those as my next necessary tool purchase.
Here's an image: static.axminster.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/9/5/950952_inset1_xl.jpg
I used those to get one off a ZJ at the junkyard. Didn’t have any issue getting it off. Must have forgot to loctite it on the assembly line
those allen wrenches cannot hold up to the torque of that fastener. The ends snap off imediately
On my ZJ I just removed the adapter and threaded the filter into the block, like it should be. No more leaks.
Nice, I've been trying to do the same thing with my 97 XJ but cold weather, not wanting to do it keeps me from a spotless driveway. I will take charge and complete it next weekend. Thanks for the video. Awesome.
Btw.. you want to put a layer of oil on the o-rings on bolt, but I cleaned the o-ring surface for the housing with brakekleen, wipes it, then installed it.. makes a better seal when it’s dry..
Just did mine a few weeks ago. PITA! I used a socket wrench and mistakenly backed it out so far that the back of the wrench got stuck against the unibody. It was too tight to flip the wrench switch to drive it back forward a bit. Took me 45 extra minutes.
0n my 92 cherokee instead of a torx its a bolt head, something to look for in the scrap yard if you're going to be replacing/doing this job... dude you totally missed replacing orings while you had this out. however judging by the difficulty you had reinstalling/starting the bolt the ones you missed are probably still good. I recomend you replace the torx bolt with the bolt off an older jeep so itll be easier in the future if you ever need to do this job again
Nice job. I tried a long time ago to change that O Ring, I'll try again next weekend.
I swear it's like every time I'm about to fix something y'all make a video. Thanks a ton guys
You can use part of that adapter with the male-male threads, screw it straight into the block, and use a smaller filter and just skip the 90 degree adapter altogether. I think it’s fram ph3614.
Thanks bleepingjeep I found my problem to my oil leak and it's my adapter and I even took pics of the leak to make sure it was that and it is. Once again thanks for providing this info and I'll fix my adapter.
Thank you for your great detailed video. I greatly appreciate all the side notes... the unnecessary footage that so many others omit. I watched this and feel prepared to attack my jeep without any doubts. Again.... thank you so much!
Just swapped a 99 Tj 4.0 in my 99 XJ and while yes it is a snug fit to the unibody you can still change the oil with relative ease, you only need to move the one starter wire out of your way with one hand and, then finagle the filter into place and tighten it. Idk why Jeep just didn't use this style instead of the adaptor. Yes the adaptor made oil changes easier but it was still about the same with this new motor, so my recommendation is if your 97-99 XJ motor blows try to find a 97-99 TJ motor to swap in.
Easy to understand why the fix was avoided. Good job! How do you know all that stuff?
Nancy Eisenhart Through the ownership of 6 Jeeps.
THATS MY PROBLEM FIXED, THANKS TO YOUR VIDEO.😅
Hey there, I reccently did this and found some great advice to jack the engine up from the oil pan (using a piece of wood to distribute the pressure) and then removing the enging mounting bolt and then jack it up about another 2 inches and you'll be able to get a breaker bar in there easier from the top which then allows you to use the largest breaker bar tube or cheater tube to get maximum leverage. Mine was about 1.5m long lol
I did this two months ago and I’m seeing almost zero leaking from my 99 on the ground. Except I am now seeing some from the differential seal on the rear. At least it ain’t motor oil!
Ahah this is like an episode that’s worth watching until the end. Thanks for posting
Great video...I will let my mechanic know about this...I've had just about everything else replaced that could have caused it to leak oil! Sure wish he would have tried this first!!!!!
Thank you for a great video. I had to change my crank
shaft white waiting on the mopar part I did an oil change.
Ouch the oil filter for the life of me would not budge filter was crumbling into a collapsed mess. Finally with a bit of wd40 got it loose. changed the filter hand tight
My first change on mine I had to drive a spike through it and use a 4’pipe on it to get her to spin. Got it.
So 3 years later, how’s it holding up? I’ve just ordered the filter adapter gasket, valve cover gasket, rear main and oil pan gasket. Gonna have the front axle out for a long arm kit, so might as well go for all of them!
Valve cover gasket is easy except for the furthest most rear bolt that’s more towards driver side but furthest back. Super pain. I usually take the upper rad hose off when doing this repair.
You can use a slim ratchet instead of a wrench if that's what you got. After borrowing one from a Neighbor I bought a set at harbour freight
You do have to pull one of the engine mount bolts out though
Mine started leaking at a car meet. Took it out had no rtv but had some window silicone that got me home. I replaced the orings the next day. Yes it was a pits but I had a hex bolt instead of the torx
The bolt isn’t a captured bolt it has an o ring on the bolt itself that you should replace as well. And not all xjs have the torx style some have a hex head bolt which I converted mine to makes it so nice.
If you take the motor mount bolt out of the sides of the oil doctor is on the engine jack up the motor enough to get a socket ratchet on their breakover bar and make it really easy
If you put the torx socket on a 1/2 inch Serpentine belt tool it fits in the area and put a cheater bar over the tool it comes out instantly.
You did not replace the o-rings on the bolt. I welded the t-60 into the wrench for my 98 Cherokee. My 94 Cherokee had a 14mm allen. You should have pushed the bolts out though.
Same here, that's where i see oil coming out, and also maybe from my old oil pressure sensor too.
I have a 1 piece Cornwell T60, grinded flat sides on it to fit a 7/8 wrench, then put a longer wrench on the end of that, then used my foot to break it loose.. those things are tight..
I did this. That old, hard, flattened out, leaking O-ring isn't just another used up part to be thrown away. That thing is a war trophy. (One O-ring on a 1996.)
Thank you for the video and thank you to everyone else for the informative comments! Getting prepared to do this to my 1998 Cherokee
Fantastic video! Got the job done in a couple hours and now no more leaks!
I would go to a garage or dealership p*** on doing it myself!
It’s why I love my long reach ratcheting wrenches
There's a total of 3 o-rings on that adapter. 2 smaller ones on the bolt
James Taylor That's what I keep hearing. I'll take it off again to check eventually but my leak has definitely stopped with just the one o ring.
BleepinJeep you have to press the bolt out and they are two smaller ones...thanks for the vid...mines leaking and i am going to fix next oil change
Cut the bit down to the point where that shallow socket would just cover over the splines and you should have had enough space. Then epoxy it in after the job and designate that to this specific job!
Once i got the bolt out on my 96xj i got a 15/16 nut welded onto the end made it so much easier too do up an undo
How did you know I would be doing this install this weekend. :) Thank you BleepinJeep!
I like the adapter on the earlier cherokees that point straight up.
The earlier ones also aren't torx
A T-60 3/8” impact socket...along with a 3/8” breaker (small head) will fit without having to alter a socket
After breaking 2 t60s and twisting a 3rd I see now that bolt just comes that tight. My o-ring came out in 2 piece. Tiny bit more room in ZJ. I hear some lifters rattling, next video?
matt parker nah, runs good. At 230k it will probably be a full rebuild if I do anything to the engine. Toying with the idea of a turbo too.
BleepinJeep gotcha, same thing I did after 325k, lifters sounded like rod knocks for the last 25k. Couldn't be angry at it
Thanks for this video. Fixed this problem. I changed my rear seal 3 times and still have a leak
there’s 3 o rings that need to be changed, the large one and then u pull that torx bolt out and there’s 2 smaller o rings that sit on that
There's usually a smaller o ring on the bolt
Thank you for the demo and the journey through the battle lol ... Well done. Not looking forward to do this on our 91.
its still tight because there's two o- rings on the bolt, for those watching this video for how to info tap on the big bolt that was threaded into the block and it'll come apart and you'll find two more o-rings you need to replace
What a Pain!!! 🤬 *Good Job!* 👍
Been there done that. Had to remove my engine mount bolts to make enough room for my wrench.
pra3t0rian Yeah, that would work too!
Questions about this project: Apparently it’s tough as heck to get this part off- should red thread locker be used on reinstall? Does this bolt need to be torqued? If so, how much or do you bottom that bolt out? Great video! Great viewer comments! Thanks
You should never need red threadlocker on most of an XJ. Idk why they would use it at the factory.
Very good video and I know videos. As for leaks, know that one drop of oil contaminates 10,000 gallons of ground water.
Need to do this to my '01 XJ for the second time. Last time, I paid a shop. This time, I've run into all the same problems, but my T60 is 10mm shaft instead of 12mm and I've destroyed one cheap wrench already. Guess I should pony up for a good quality forged wrench that won't turn into spaghetti.
Hey, an easier way of doing that is to thread a pipe for the end of your oil filter adapter, and just screw the pipe on in place of your oil filter and you have an instant lever.
Good video, but I have one little piece of advice to ad to it.
If you are planning to reuse your oil filter, which you should not, even if it is a day old, at least cover it and protect it from getting any trash in it. Any debris that gets into it obviously could get into the motor.
I didn’t know about this when I changed my oil and I thought it was the pan bolt because they have the copper washer replaced that and nothing thanks for the tip to get it off
Just did this today, thanks for suggesting...motor was on a stand so was perfect timing