I attempted to do mine 3 years ago, even bought a nice T60 key from Amazon that fit perfect, I was hanging off it with all my body weight and still couldn't get it to budge lmao.
I bought a torx kit just for that ridiculous thing. Haven’t used any of them since. Mine was leaking oil from the rear seal/pan and filter adapter so bad they came off with ease. Nice thing about oil leaks is it keeps the porch clean Love that you’re still alive!
This ended up being way easier to do than alot of people are saying… yes you will need to make a tool, took me 20 mins at most, welded a torx 60 tip to the bottom side of a open ended lug nut, worked absolutely wonderful, used the double wrench breaker bar method, i found it a little harder to get the threads started with the bolt having the o rings makes it a little hard to turn, everything else was easy, but you just have to make the right tool
To get more room for a breaker bar undo the passengers side motor mount through bolt and loosen the drivers side. Jack up the engine a few inches. Creates more than enough room.
I saw in a someones else's video and it worked way better for me. Serpentine belt tool worked for me and found a torx bit that wasn't long and worked way easier. I couldn't get the way he did
Mine was ripped tried JB weld, it didn’t hold, frustrating. Settled with high temperature seal gasket around the leak, had to use some Jeep engineering 🧐🤣😂
It really makes you wonder why they went to the torx. My '88 has a regular hex bolt on the adapter. Edit: BTW, the kit does not work entirely on the '88. Instead of two orings on the plunger there is only the small one and a second one that fits into a groove at the end of the adapter that the plunger "cap" presses up against. The oring size is 1 5/16" ID, 1 9/16" OD, 1/8" thickness, p/n 7272219 at napa. I wonder if the style changed when they switched to the high output in 1991. Just saying cuz I just went through this xD
Mine wasn't too bad. Just needed a long enough breaker bar that was also thin enough to fit in there with a socket on it. Weirdly enough I needed a 14mm hex socket instead of a torx,
Most of the time was setting up the cheater bar and holding everything in place. Mine was tight but not as tight as it would be if it wasn't removed before. But just took a couple pulls on the cheater bar to break free.
I attempted to do mine 3 years ago, even bought a nice T60 key from Amazon that fit perfect, I was hanging off it with all my body weight and still couldn't get it to budge lmao.
You need unlimited cheater pipe and someone on a ladder 🤣
I bought a torx kit just for that ridiculous thing. Haven’t used any of them since. Mine was leaking oil from the rear seal/pan and filter adapter so bad they came off with ease. Nice thing about oil leaks is it keeps the porch clean
Love that you’re still alive!
One of the best videos on this repair. Thanks.
This ended up being way easier to do than alot of people are saying… yes you will need to make a tool, took me 20 mins at most, welded a torx 60 tip to the bottom side of a open ended lug nut, worked absolutely wonderful, used the double wrench breaker bar method, i found it a little harder to get the threads started with the bolt having the o rings makes it a little hard to turn, everything else was easy, but you just have to make the right tool
To get more room for a breaker bar undo the passengers side motor mount through bolt and loosen the drivers side. Jack up the engine a few inches. Creates more than enough room.
😂
Hey men I would like to ask you a few questions about the jeep a340 automatic gearbox.


I saw in a someones else's video and it worked way better for me. Serpentine belt tool worked for me and found a torx bit that wasn't long and worked way easier. I couldn't get the way he did
Whatever works for you is the best. Best part of UA-cam is seeing various ways of tackling a job.
Do we need to apply loctite when putting it back on?
Yeah, doesn’t take much though. Be liberal with it
Myyyyyy man... Another great video that I can use! Thanks!
Nice job Austin.I always thought of you as an over size oil filter guy.I guess not...😁😁
Always great videos Austin, Thank you.
Mine was ripped tried JB weld, it didn’t hold, frustrating.
Settled with high temperature seal gasket around the leak, had to use some Jeep engineering 🧐🤣😂
It really makes you wonder why they went to the torx. My '88 has a regular hex bolt on the adapter.
Edit: BTW, the kit does not work entirely on the '88. Instead of two orings on the plunger there is only the small one and a second one that fits into a groove at the end of the adapter that the plunger "cap" presses up against. The oring size is 1 5/16" ID, 1 9/16" OD, 1/8" thickness, p/n 7272219 at napa. I wonder if the style changed when they switched to the high output in 1991. Just saying cuz I just went through this xD
Interesting, that's probably why there was 2 extra o-rings in the kit. May be for all the years and different style adapters.
@OutJeeping accidentally bought this kit and no, they do not fit on my 89 comanche
Great job! Thanks for explaining!
Mine wasn't too bad. Just needed a long enough breaker bar that was also thin enough to fit in there with a socket on it. Weirdly enough I needed a 14mm hex socket instead of a torx,
I’m thinking that’s what I need because I picked up torx it’s too small
Need to do mine so video helped. But how long did it take to break the bolt free? I can guess it was a pain in the butt
Most of the time was setting up the cheater bar and holding everything in place. Mine was tight but not as tight as it would be if it wasn't removed before. But just took a couple pulls on the cheater bar to break free.
Another great vid.
Great video!
Thanks alot.
Mine was a night mare, almost as bad as the upper rear leaf spring bolts.
Not all are t60 my 1993 was
Cool 👍👍
No oil filter relocation adapter
Filter is in a very convenient spot compared to most vehicles now a days.