I did basically the same but found huge advantage using a “ribbed roller”. These are like a bunch of half inch washers with spacers on a frame used to get resin to penetrate fiber glass chopped strand. I found it very helpful to get out wrinkles and get maximum penetration into my drop sheet.
Good info. When I found myself nodding and raising my eyebrows a bit when you were deciding which tools to use, I knew that I liked your video self! Nice, easy to watch, easy to understand!
as someone who has had questions about this for a long time, this video was very helpful. Thank you! About to embark on my 2nd build and I'm going to use PMF this time.
Just FYI, I'm using Titebond 3 instead of Titebond 2 because it's water PROOF which Tieibond 2 is only water RESISTANT. Also, if you want it to turn out like fiberglass, you need to give it three coats, sanded between each coat. It will be smooth and strong like fiberglass.
@@shawnhenderson1130 Why do you think Titebond 3 will not stick to itself after it's dry? I think I pretty much proved that statement wrong when I sed three coats over my fabric and it is hard as a rock.
You’ll get tons of views on this video over time, I have . I used a different glue and paint process on mine . 2 1/2 years and no issues with mine . Good luck with the build 👍
RubberTrampRenegade haha get ready for plenty of opinions and nasty comments ,,, I think the tiny camper people are more opinionated that the laid back camper van group haha. Good video .theres so many ways to do it I just picked the most common one I saw and went for it .
@@ArmadilloJunction I dunno, I have had my share of nasty comments from vanners also. Especially on UA-cam. Let them say what they will. If it works for me its a success in my book. Thanks for watching and thank you for the advice.
Hi Armadillo and RubberTramp. Do either of you leave the camper out in the elements? What about snow? How is it holding up a few years later (I'm nervous about long term sun and weather exposure, but I don't have the ability to store it inside.) I've never heard of this method, but I'm very intrigued. Do you have to reapply the top glue layer ever?
I'm trying to figure out like with flooring, I can put wood glue and then the insulation and then a canvas cloth and then if I could put cement over it and it would harden the same as if with glue because I have like 50 lbs of quick cement
I’m not sure on cost comparison, that’s just what it’s known as. It may or may not be cheaper than actual fiberglass. However, it does not have the strong odor from off gassing like fiberglass resin does and it doesn’t burn your skin or eyes like the fumes from resin does.
Cool. I did not know that Wood Glue was water proof. This technique reminds me of Paper Mache. Which is what I did on the inside of my Van. Except I used PVA Elmers Glue All & packaging paper to coat my polyiso insulation. Then a coat of Water Based polyurethane to seal it then exterior paint over that.
@@curtiswilson8402 interesting, ty. Im making a note of that. How would you remove it if you needed to in the future? Can it be cut or sawed or drilled into?
Tight Bond II & III designed as waterproof. The difference between the two is this. The region that you're applying it to. Tight Bond III, if you read the label, is designed to be used in cooler climates. II is used in the remaining ones. A lot of people knock III because they didn't read the label.
@@RubberTrampRenegade I just cut the windows out and purchased the glue. I’m going to used old bed sheets and see how this goes. Thanks for checking in on the progress.
Have you done any tests for compression? Like if you built a cabinet and the sides were made up of foam with PMF coating. How strong do you think it would be?
I found your video after I saw video of someone showing off her teardrop camper that she made and she said she used the poor mans fiberglass but also mentioned a step of mixing what I think she said was oil paint and water - I'm not sure and cant find the video at the moment. Do you know what she meant? Thank for the great video I found it very informative. I've been looking at eventually building my own camper trailer, and I find everybody's videos a huge inspiration on what is possible - especially if done alone.
Thanks for the comment. There’s more than one way to do poor mans fiberglass. I have seen people use glue mixed with water to thin it down some. I’ve also seen people use bed sheets and paint. I’m not experienced in using paint. I used straight Tite bond 2 glue out of the bottle. After it all dried I painted over it. I have not had any trouble or leaks. I’ve been off Facebook for over a year now, but if you are on there look for a group called “DIY teardrop campers community” they are all helpful and full of knowledge.
I found your channel while looking at different van builds for ideas. I never knew anything about building with foam. My curiosity led me to teardrop and truck campers built from smart (Poor Man’s Fiberglass), lightweight, and cost effective materials. Some of these guys go off-roading and across very challenging terrain for years with no issues. So, here’s my crazy but serious question. Could this method of building be used to build affordable structures to house the homeless even for short term transitional housing, if not long term?
Just to be clear.......you don't need to use Titebond 2. Any waterproof exterior glue will do (except a PU glue!!). There are lots to choose from. I use a waterproof PVA. And yes, ironing first is a really important step. Water your glue down substantially.
@@RubberTrampRenegade I don't think anyone said you were reckless. I am just pointing out for your global followers that there are options other than TB2 which work every bit as well.
I didn’t price actual fiberglass. PMF has several other benefits vs actual fiberglass resin. I chose PMF because the smell is not so strong and it does not harden as fast allowing you more working time. It’s a matter of preference really.
So one thing i see on a lot of these poor man's fibergass videos (excepting one) is people trying to use the glue sparingly. That is not the concept. The way to get a good watertight smooth finish is start like uou did with initially gluing the cloth down and speading it out to get out any wrinkles. Then lay a cover coat of tight bond II entirely saturating the cloth and let it dry. Sand and wipe off the lose dust and apply another generous coat of tight bond II. Sand again. Prime with a exterior primer. Sand and wipe again. Apply several finish coats of exterior paint of your Choosing.
I used damn near 4 gallons of glue on my tiny camper so I would hardly call it sparingly. I did not sand abs re apply, but I did go over the top of it with rust oleum oil base paint and it has held up fine and does not leak. One thing I find on UA-cam is people like you who tell me I’ve done everything wrong. This way worked for me.
@@RubberTrampRenegade i was not trying to say tou did everything wrong and forgive me if it came accross that way. My point was that if the material pattern is still visable after the glue hardens then there isnt enough glue. Same as resin. I imagine that would be quite a bit of addrd weight. I am not sure how the structure stability will be sffected with all the added weight traveling at highway speeds. The pounds per square inch of force is multiplied as the speed is increased. There is always more than one way to skin a cat. The test which way is best will be the longevity. I hope yours last as long as your desire to use it!
"poor man's fiberglass" was the standard covering material for wood boats long before fiberglass was invented, there are boats that are over 100 years old with painted canvas cabin tops and decks that are still in good condition. instead of glue they used oil-based paint to set and saturate the canvas, not sure if the titebond will hold up over a long period of time.
Thank you for this video. I did my bottom a few days ago. And was going to start the sides tomorrow. Same exact drop cloths, I was looking for an easier way to spread it. Im going to try the spreader out.
Use a small foam paint roller to apply the glue before you lay down the cloth or canvas. Then you can also use a roller to apply the coat of glue over the canvas, but I would use a brush so you know all the glue is penetrating the canvas. Then sand it before you add another coat. Three coats are recommended with Titebond 3 (use Titebond 3 not 2)
One thing I'm curious about is is that everything I've seen is on the 1st coat, you apply the glue on the wood 1st THEN the clothe or canvas to press it on. 2nd coat, obviously is over the top.
You can do PMF two ways. You can use glue then adhere the cloth to the glue and be finished. Or, you can do like I did and coat the exterior of the canvas as well. If you do not use a second coat of glue, you need to paint the exterior of the canvas to provide another layer of water resistance.
You said you "came up a little shy" on one bottom edge, after you had precut the width to overlap - did you find that the material tended to contract and shrink a bit rather than stretch once the glue was applied? Just wondering how much overlap to allow to insure I have 2" of overlap at each joint? Thanks for any thoughts on this from anyone.
@@kevinsykes6645 Thanks Kevin - I used a pretty similar sequence in applying the poor man's fiberglass, and it turned out pretty well. I overlapped all of the edges 2 inches and I've had my camper out a few times now and I'm happy with the result. I used 3-M 5200 marine adhesive sealant to seal the very bottom edge where the wall met the frame. Great stuff.
Hello RTR, love the channel and builds. Now that it has been a few months, how has the "Poor Man's Fiberglass" held up? Is it still serving as water proofing? I'm starting a build and need to figure out the best way to water proof ply wood. Thanks in advance
Thank you. It has been in the rain a couple times and I have washed the mud off of it with the water hose and it has not leaked at all. So far I am satisfied.
You just want to keep in mind the way the water will run. I did my sides first and rolled them over the top about an inch, then I did the top and overlapped where it rolled over the sides. I could have rolled the top piece over the side about an inch if I wanted to but there have been no leaks
Do you know if polyurethane (Spar varnish)would work as well or better than TB2? Also , Would TB3 hold up better than TB2 if the camper is to be used in a wet environment (East Coast) .
@@RubberTrampRenegade Thanks. While TB3 is rated to be a little more resistant to water than TB2, some woodworkers feel it is not significant,. Also TB3 is significantly more expensive than TB2. Most polyurethanes don't hold up well in bright sun. Spar varnished help but still a problem. Just curious if you had read or had experience with these products.
I can't imagine this will be as strong or durable as actual fiberglass. So why? Cost savings is all I can see. How much did you save relative to fiberglass. The work involved appears to be similar. Thanks for the video.
It’s actually surprisingly durable. It has proven to be abrasion resistant and waterproof. It probably is not as strong as fiberglass, but it works for me. It’s easier to work with and has more working time than fiberglass so you don’t have to worry about the resin getting hard on you in the middle of the job. It also is less noxious and doesn’t irritate my eyes and nose like fiberglass does even with proper ventilation. It’s just a matter of preference. Fiberglass would be a superior product, but this is the way I chose to do it.
PMF is an updated version of the canvas water proofing done on boats before fiberglass was invented. You can still find some boats that are over 100 years old with the original canvas still intact. Except for the Scamp and a select few other campers the fiberglass does not not provide significant strength but rather weather proofs the structure. Both methods accomplish this end, both have advantages and drawbacks. PMF has a couple significant advantages in cost and ability to easily repair any damage. A down side is that it will need a new coat of paint every 5 years, where the fiberglass will need little maintenance for 15-20.
@@jimmyjohnson911 I would not recommend OSB, but Runaway campers are made of OSB. I am currently building a house and OSB used to be around $10 a sheet and when I bought some in october it was $28. If you have studs or ribs in your build OSB may work, but to build it the way I did out of plywood only I would not recommend OSB. You need something more solid.
@@RubberTrampRenegade awesome, thank you. I will either end up with studded OSB, or MDX. It all depends on what I can source. Thank you for being helpful and speedy!
I did not lie. The process is called poor mans fiberglass. It was created by the poor class who would use this process to waterproof their plywood boats because they could not afford the more expensive fiberglass boats that were available. The process works well for waterproofing. But I guess if it makes you feel all warm and fuzzy calling me a liar for sharing a process then I feel sorry for you.
The use of paints and coating to glue and protect wood predates fiberglass, they each have to similarity in fitness or performance. It’s perpetuating a slang term myth. This is dangerous. Saying tin is poor mans aluminum or titanium is the same deception. Canvas covered canoes followed birch bark canoes, the structure is different, the methods and materials are different. If anyone decides to say fiberglass is poor mans carbon fiber is the same type of lie. Be accurate.
@@mmac4047 I feel sorry for people like you. Again. I did not name the process. Do you get bent out of shape about Easter candy? I mean, there are chocolate eggs, but they are not really eggs.
@@RubberTrampRenegade sorry you had to deal w that kind of individual. I think you are doing Great, no matter What you call it or compare it to. Thank you for the help.🙏
I did basically the same but found huge advantage using a “ribbed roller”. These are like a bunch of half inch washers with spacers on a frame used to get resin to penetrate fiber glass chopped strand. I found it very helpful to get out wrinkles and get maximum penetration into my drop sheet.
Good info. When I found myself nodding and raising my eyebrows a bit when you were deciding which tools to use, I knew that I liked your video self! Nice, easy to watch, easy to understand!
dilute glue glue, 1 part water / 2 parts glue. I did that building a foam row boat, worked fine .
Covered two boats with "poor man's fiberglass". After years of use both boats still in excellent shape.
!interesting!
How much glue and paint per m2?
@@leonordin3052 +1 for me
Try pinking shears, They leave a zigzag pattern instead of a straight edge, less fraying of the material.
as someone who has had questions about this for a long time, this video was very helpful. Thank you! About to embark on my 2nd build and I'm going to use PMF this time.
I used elastomeric roof coating ( the good Kool-Seal) to do this with beehives roofs. After 10 years, most are intact.
Just FYI, I'm using Titebond 3 instead of Titebond 2 because it's water PROOF which Tieibond 2 is only water RESISTANT. Also, if you want it to turn out like fiberglass, you need to give it three coats, sanded between each coat. It will be smooth and strong like fiberglass.
Titebond 3 when dry won't even stick to itself. That's why people use titebond 2 it will adhere to itself for the multiple coats your applying
@@shawnhenderson1130 Why do you think Titebond 3 will not stick to itself after it's dry? I think I pretty much proved that statement wrong when I sed three coats over my fabric and it is hard as a rock.
UV light is what’s damages even fibre glass or any other paint so where possible keep it in a shed and covered with a drop sheet.
Absolutely BRILLIANT!!
p.s. I like the pinstripeng on your black tool boxes up top. Looks cool!
You’ll get tons of views on this video over time, I have . I used a different glue and paint process on mine . 2 1/2 years and no issues with mine . Good luck with the build 👍
Thanks for watching. I actually watched one of your videos when researching the process. Thanks for uploading it.
RubberTrampRenegade haha get ready for plenty of opinions and nasty comments ,,, I think the tiny camper people are more opinionated that the laid back camper van group haha. Good video .theres so many ways to do it I just picked the most common one I saw and went for it .
@@ArmadilloJunction I dunno, I have had my share of nasty comments from vanners also. Especially on UA-cam. Let them say what they will. If it works for me its a success in my book. Thanks for watching and thank you for the advice.
That's pretty cool! How was your finished result? Are you still happy with the finished result? How is it holding up?
Hi Armadillo and RubberTramp. Do either of you leave the camper out in the elements? What about snow? How is it holding up a few years later (I'm nervous about long term sun and weather exposure, but I don't have the ability to store it inside.)
I've never heard of this method, but I'm very intrigued. Do you have to reapply the top glue layer ever?
Thank you for sharing!!!
HF scissors. They work great. Easy to resharpen on a flat stone
I'm trying to figure out like with flooring, I can put wood glue and then the insulation and then a canvas cloth and then if I could put cement over it and it would harden the same as if with glue because I have like 50 lbs of quick cement
Cheers dude, used this to build my rig!
Try a sheetrockers knife, maybe 8-10".
How do the costs compare?
At the very least, I think canvas and wood glue would be more pleasent to work with than fiberglass cloth and resin.
I’m not sure on cost comparison, that’s just what it’s known as. It may or may not be cheaper than actual fiberglass. However, it does not have the strong odor from off gassing like fiberglass resin does and it doesn’t burn your skin or eyes like the fumes from resin does.
Rek'n a feller could add some paint to that to create a color fast concoction?
Cool. I did not know that Wood Glue was water proof. This technique reminds me of Paper Mache. Which is what I did on the inside of my Van. Except I used PVA Elmers Glue All & packaging paper to coat my polyiso insulation. Then a coat of Water Based polyurethane to seal it then exterior paint over that.
Titebond 3 is fully waterproof when dry--it won't even stick to itself--once dy, freash layers cannot be added.
@@curtiswilson8402 interesting, ty. Im making a note of that. How would you remove it if you needed to in the future? Can it be cut or sawed or drilled into?
Tight Bond II & III designed as waterproof. The difference between the two is this. The region that you're applying it to. Tight Bond III, if you read the label, is designed to be used in cooler climates. II is used in the remaining ones. A lot of people knock III because they didn't read the label.
@@guyh.4553 Ty
awesome info man 🙌 I’m still early in my build but I’m gonna try this
Have you tried PMF yet? Just curious how it worked out for you.
@@RubberTrampRenegade I just cut the windows out and purchased the glue. I’m going to used old bed sheets and see how this goes. Thanks for checking in on the progress.
I wonder if you could make a kayak with the same method? Could be another video?
I'm trying to build one with this method be done this weekend I will let you know I'm just use indians cardboard and the poor mans fiberglass
Wouldn't Titebond 3 be better?
Any idea if pmf works on the smooth film of polyisocyanurate foamboard.... it's R value is 6.5/ in rather than 5/in pinkboard
Have you done any tests for compression? Like if you built a cabinet and the sides were made up of foam with PMF coating. How strong do you think it would be?
Nice work sir! How many gallons of glue did you use?
I found your video after I saw video of someone showing off her teardrop camper that she made and she said she used the poor mans fiberglass but also mentioned a step of mixing what I think she said was oil paint and water - I'm not sure and cant find the video at the moment. Do you know what she meant? Thank for the great video I found it very informative. I've been looking at eventually building my own camper trailer, and I find everybody's videos a huge inspiration on what is possible - especially if done alone.
Thanks for the comment. There’s more than one way to do poor mans fiberglass. I have seen people use glue mixed with water to thin it down some. I’ve also seen people use bed sheets and paint. I’m not experienced in using paint. I used straight Tite bond 2 glue out of the bottle. After it all dried I painted over it. I have not had any trouble or leaks. I’ve been off Facebook for over a year now, but if you are on there look for a group called “DIY teardrop campers community” they are all helpful and full of knowledge.
I found your channel while looking at different van builds for ideas. I never knew anything about building with foam. My curiosity led me to teardrop and truck campers built from smart (Poor Man’s Fiberglass), lightweight, and cost effective materials.
Some of these guys go off-roading and across very challenging terrain for years with no issues.
So, here’s my crazy but serious question. Could this method of building be used to build affordable structures to house the homeless even for short term transitional housing, if not long term?
Question: Why not TB3?
Nice work, great tips on the installation of the covering.
Hello did you screw or nail your plywood? Thanks.
Just to be clear.......you don't need to use Titebond 2. Any waterproof exterior glue will do (except a PU glue!!). There are lots to choose from. I use a waterproof PVA. And yes, ironing first is a really important step. Water your glue down substantially.
Glad you straightened me out as reckless as I have been….
@@RubberTrampRenegade I don't think anyone said you were reckless. I am just pointing out for your global followers that there are options other than TB2 which work every bit as well.
You said PMF is “a little cheaper”. I heard it was greatly cheaper. If it’s just a little cheaper, then I would probably go with the fiberglass.
I didn’t price actual fiberglass. PMF has several other benefits vs actual fiberglass resin. I chose PMF because the smell is not so strong and it does not harden as fast allowing you more working time. It’s a matter of preference really.
Aurait il été mieux de diluer la colle ?
How much was the cost of the PMF project, glue and tarps etc. ?
So one thing i see on a lot of these poor man's fibergass videos (excepting one) is people trying to use the glue sparingly. That is not the concept. The way to get a good watertight smooth finish is start like uou did with initially gluing the cloth down and speading it out to get out any wrinkles. Then lay a cover coat of tight bond II entirely saturating the cloth and let it dry. Sand and wipe off the lose dust and apply another generous coat of tight bond II. Sand again. Prime with a exterior primer. Sand and wipe again. Apply several finish coats of exterior paint of your Choosing.
I used damn near 4 gallons of glue on my tiny camper so I would hardly call it sparingly. I did not sand abs re apply, but I did go over the top of it with rust oleum oil base paint and it has held up fine and does not leak. One thing I find on UA-cam is people like you who tell me I’ve done everything wrong. This way worked for me.
@@RubberTrampRenegade i was not trying to say tou did everything wrong and forgive me if it came accross that way.
My point was that if the material pattern is still visable after the glue hardens then there isnt enough glue. Same as resin.
I imagine that would be quite a bit of addrd weight. I am not sure how the structure stability will be sffected with all the added weight traveling at highway speeds. The pounds per square inch of force is multiplied as the speed is increased.
There is always more than one way to skin a cat. The test which way is best will be the longevity. I hope yours last as long as your desire to use it!
"poor man's fiberglass" was the standard covering material for wood boats long before fiberglass was invented, there are boats that are over 100 years old with painted canvas cabin tops and decks that are still in good condition. instead of glue they used oil-based paint to set and saturate the canvas, not sure if the titebond will hold up over a long period of time.
Can you use toghtbond 3?
Thank you for this video. I did my bottom a few days ago. And was going to start the sides tomorrow. Same exact drop cloths, I was looking for an easier way to spread it. Im going to try the spreader out.
Glad it was helpful!
Use a small foam paint roller to apply the glue before you lay down the cloth or canvas. Then you can also use a roller to apply the coat of glue over the canvas, but I would use a brush so you know all the glue is penetrating the canvas. Then sand it before you add another coat. Three coats are recommended with Titebond 3 (use Titebond 3 not 2)
One thing I'm curious about is is that everything I've seen is on the 1st coat, you apply the glue on the wood 1st THEN the clothe or canvas to press it on. 2nd coat, obviously is over the top.
You can do PMF two ways. You can use glue then adhere the cloth to the glue and be finished. Or, you can do like I did and coat the exterior of the canvas as well. If you do not use a second coat of glue, you need to paint the exterior of the canvas to provide another layer of water resistance.
@@RubberTrampRenegade you can tell you have done fiberglass, second cost on top method and faired in - good job!
You said you "came up a little shy" on one bottom edge, after you had precut the width to overlap - did you find that the material tended to contract and shrink a bit rather than stretch once the glue was applied? Just wondering how much overlap to allow to insure I have 2" of overlap at each joint? Thanks for any thoughts on this from anyone.
Sides first
100mm overlap
Top last
Trim to edge of roof
Hope that helps
@@kevinsykes6645 Thanks Kevin - I used a pretty similar sequence in applying the poor man's fiberglass, and it turned out pretty well. I overlapped all of the edges 2 inches and I've had my camper out a few times now and I'm happy with the result. I used 3-M 5200 marine adhesive sealant to seal the very bottom edge where the wall met the frame. Great stuff.
Hello RTR, love the channel and builds. Now that it has been a few months, how has the "Poor Man's Fiberglass" held up? Is it still serving as water proofing? I'm starting a build and need to figure out the best way to water proof ply wood. Thanks in advance
Thank you. It has been in the rain a couple times and I have washed the mud off of it with the water hose and it has not leaked at all. So far I am satisfied.
@@RubberTrampRenegade Thanks for this video, going to be trying this on a 5x8 camper I am building!
How much glue Did you use
Sub’d & Bell’d and thanks so much. You go straight titebond glue, not 1 h2o/1 glue ratio. Interesting
Got a question about how u handled the corners wen cutting ur cloth n wen gluing? Concerned bout overlap causing leak issues.
You just want to keep in mind the way the water will run. I did my sides first and rolled them over the top about an inch, then I did the top and overlapped where it rolled over the sides. I could have rolled the top piece over the side about an inch if I wanted to but there have been no leaks
Nice!...this is new for me. What is the real name of the fabric?. Is a synthetic fiber or cotton (natural) fiber base fabric?
It is canvas drop cloths that painters use. I am pretty sure they are cotton.
@@RubberTrampRenegade Thank you for the info!
Cotton gives maximum penetration of glue or resin or paint.
Good info
Cheers
Do you know if polyurethane (Spar varnish)would work as well or better than TB2? Also , Would TB3 hold up better than TB2 if the camper is to be used in a wet environment (East Coast) .
I’m really not sure the answer to any of those questions. I know there’s a reason people use TB2 specifically.
@@RubberTrampRenegade Thanks. While TB3 is rated to be a little more resistant to water than TB2, some woodworkers feel it is not significant,. Also TB3 is significantly more expensive than TB2. Most polyurethanes don't hold up well in bright sun. Spar varnished help but still a problem. Just curious if you had read or had experience with these products.
It’s not the Titebond that creates a waterproof barrier, it’s the multiple layers of paint that you follow up with. Titebond II is not waterproof.
Do a poor man's fiberglass on foam board and show how well that works.
I have not tried that but I hear its strong.
thanks for the tips. i will try them.
I can't imagine this will be as strong or durable as actual fiberglass. So why? Cost savings is all I can see. How much did you save relative to fiberglass. The work involved appears to be similar.
Thanks for the video.
It’s actually surprisingly durable. It has proven to be abrasion resistant and waterproof. It probably is not as strong as fiberglass, but it works for me. It’s easier to work with and has more working time than fiberglass so you don’t have to worry about the resin getting hard on you in the middle of the job. It also is less noxious and doesn’t irritate my eyes and nose like fiberglass does even with proper ventilation. It’s just a matter of preference. Fiberglass would be a superior product, but this is the way I chose to do it.
PMF is an updated version of the canvas water proofing done on boats before fiberglass was invented. You can still find some boats that are over 100 years old with the original canvas still intact. Except for the Scamp and a select few other campers the fiberglass does not not provide significant strength but rather weather proofs the structure. Both methods accomplish this end, both have advantages and drawbacks. PMF has a couple significant advantages in cost and ability to easily repair any damage. A down side is that it will need a new coat of paint every 5 years, where the fiberglass will need little maintenance for 15-20.
What is the cheapest plywood I can use?
I’m sorry but I am not sure. Lumber prices are insane right now. I have not kept up with plywood prices.
@@RubberTrampRenegade do you think I would have much issue with OSB?
@@jimmyjohnson911 I would not recommend OSB, but Runaway campers are made of OSB. I am currently building a house and OSB used to be around $10 a sheet and when I bought some in october it was $28. If you have studs or ribs in your build OSB may work, but to build it the way I did out of plywood only I would not recommend OSB. You need something more solid.
@@RubberTrampRenegade awesome, thank you. I will either end up with studded OSB, or MDX. It all depends on what I can source. Thank you for being helpful and speedy!
to much gab
Too* if your going to be a jerk at least have good grammar.
Not fiberglass, zero performance, implying is simply a lie.
I did not lie. The process is called poor mans fiberglass. It was created by the poor class who would use this process to waterproof their plywood boats because they could not afford the more expensive fiberglass boats that were available. The process works well for waterproofing. But I guess if it makes you feel all warm and fuzzy calling me a liar for sharing a process then I feel sorry for you.
The use of paints and coating to glue and protect wood predates fiberglass, they each have to similarity in fitness or performance. It’s perpetuating a slang term myth. This is dangerous. Saying tin is poor mans aluminum or titanium is the same deception. Canvas covered canoes followed birch bark canoes, the structure is different, the methods and materials are different. If anyone decides to say fiberglass is poor mans carbon fiber is the same type of lie. Be accurate.
@@mmac4047 I feel sorry for people like you. Again. I did not name the process. Do you get bent out of shape about Easter candy? I mean, there are chocolate eggs, but they are not really eggs.
@@RubberTrampRenegade sorry you had to deal w that kind of individual.
I think you are doing Great, no matter What you call it or compare it to. Thank you for the help.🙏
@@RubberTrampRenegade Thanks for the laugh!