As I read the comments below or before me I have to comment. I have 30-06,308, 30 carbine. I am an avid 38/357 pistol and rifle shooter. I have numerous 223/556 firearms. Point is why the 300 BO. Well I use H 110 powder for 357(9 firearms). I have 1000"s 223/556 brass, I have 1000"s 308 diameter bullets. The 300 BO is an awesome 300 yard deer caliber. Great timber rifle, black bear and cougar annihilator!!! No recoil very accurate and I have all the components already. Not to mention the subsonic ability. PLEASE try the Everglades Ammo bullets. Their 135 gr fmj with cone-lure is great for the 300. Their 75 gr 224 bullets are totally awesome in the 556 loads. I also use their bullets by the 1000 in 38/357. End note is I think I have watch every video on this channel. Keep up the great work.
Hey Johnny, love your videos keep em coming. I have been hand loading for over 30 years and you teach this old dog new tricks. I do have to pass a time saver on to you after watching this video. I use the same same Lee trimmer set up. I don't use the shell locking holder anymore, just put the cutter with the depth pin in your drill chuck and hold the cartridge case in your hand. You can go through a tray pretty quick this way because you dont have to stop each time to unlock and lock a new case in the holder ;)
I seem to be getting very similar results. With a 10.5" barrel, I started seeing the SD get pretty low around the 20 grain point. At 21grains it dropped to 10 with a 5 shot average of 2264. My COL was a bit longer than yours though - 2.1" as I didn't want to compress too much to begin with. It seems that that combo really starts ticking well with a bit of compression, and my next tests will be around the 20-21 grain mark with varying lengths to optimize groups and velocities a bit. I have not shot groups yet as time has been limited, but this recipe seems to be pretty decent for short barrels. I don not have access to a 16" barrel so to everyone out there that thinks of trying this in a 16" - be careful. That being said, thanks for the videos John!
I love those videos sir, Even your frustration and sarcasm goes to something good. Great info about using the 8.5 inch barrel and reloading. I was considering abandoning my 10.5" idea in favor of 8.5 and you just saved me a bunch of frustrations. I don'e need max velocity for my needs and 12.5 is a bit too long for what I'm building. Thanks you, sir!
I shoot in all kinds of outdoor environments, mostly old gravel pits, and logging landings. Lately I've made it a habit of bringing a tarp with me, for the brass to land on. It's now pretty necessary, as I am the proud owner of lots of Starline brass and can't afford to lose it..LOL Anyway, it works great, and I'm no longer spending half an hour wondering around looking for brass after I'm done shooting. Haven't lost one case since I started using my tarp! Also, thank you for all the good information on how to identify pressure signs on my brass. It has been super helpful, especially on days where I've forgot my chrony or too lazy to set it up. And I've done most all my load work ups anyway, so other than curiosity I don't use it as much lately. Will be dragging it out again soon, though, as I'm starting to work up loads for my .357 mag/.38 spl. Your videos on that subject have already been invaluable on that...Thanks!
That's going fast out of a short barrel! My 8.5" is getting 2150. I'm afraid of loading it hotter with all that increased pressure. I enjoy your channel
+The Immortal Yeah, absolutely. I still need to catch up on a lot of your older stuff but I've enjoyed everything I've watched so far. Back to your original comment...I'm surprised I was able to get to max case capacity without seeing pressure issues with the brass. I really didn't like seeing the jackets getting marred with the full case, so I'll need to back off a bit if only to avoid that. Can't wait to try the Barnes bullets!
@@JohnnysReloadingBench factory loaded hornady brown box listed .300whisper, 110gr vmax at 2350fps. Has a OAL of 2.100". That's .050" more case fill capacity.
@@echota23 2350 factory Hornady velocity number on the ammo box is most likely out of a 16” barrel. They are always optimistic and best case scenario, would be interesting to see how much .050” more capacity would give.
I built mine from the ground up as a stamped SBR with a 10.5" barrel. I have the dies and a bottle of W296 and an assortment of bullets of different types/weights, but I just haven't gotten around to working up any loads for it yet. But I'm looking forward to it. Thanks for the videos. BTW, if you ever find a heavy bullet for suppressed use that will perform well at subsonic velocities, please let us all know!
6 років тому+4
Wouldn't it be more efficient to leave the case in the holder on the drill after the trim and use the chamfer and debur tools while it is chucked?
Ive had a can of 1680 for like 5 years, it was the first powder I ever bought and it was for x39 which was a dumb caliber to start reloading for lol. I can FINALLY use the damn 1680 now though. I might even disassemble the x39 loads I made because I never even shot them in all that time.
Die Set - RCBS .300 AAC Blackout SB (small base) P/N 22407 Primer Pocket Swager Tool - RCBS P/N 9481 (mild push) Brass - Lake City 5.56 (home cut and reformed) * Trim Length 1.364" thru 1.361" Powder - Winchester 296 - 20.5 grains Primers - CCI Magnum Small Rifle Primers (#450) Bullet - Hornady V-Max 110 grain .308 #23010 Overall Length (OAL) - 2.030" thru 2.035" Ruger Mini 14 300 Blackout Barrel - 16" Rifling 1:7 (RH Twist) Chronograph - ProChrono Distance - Approximately 10' Average Velocity: 2475 fps Muzzle Energy: 1495.92 ft/lbs. I never use anything other than Winchester 296 or H110. Primers are slightly flattened but no fall outs. Brass is not stretched and once resized and de-primmed fit perfectly in my L.E. Wilson 300 Blackout Case Gauge. I use only the Caldwell Ammo Box (hinged) for my 300 Blackout. Caldwell box for .223 - 5.56 - .204
+TOBORE8THMAN Update - Experimented with 21 grains of W296. All other loading parameters mention above remain the same except the increase powder charge. Powder was fed to the cartridge via Lyman Powder Charger #55. Here are my chronograph results: 2505 fps 2496 fps 2490 fps 2513 fps 2510 fps Average velocity - 2503 fps Average muzzle energy - 1530 ft/lbs. Temperature - 49 degrees F Humidity - 30 % While a fun experiment. Not interested in loading anything other than 125 grain bullets for now on. Only load either the 125 grain Hornady SST or the Sierra Matchking 125 grain HP. Working on an charge of 19.2 grains W296 with velocities hovering around the 2330-2355 fps range. Loved your videos and I'm looking forward to more of you 300 Blackout loading videos. Thank you!!!
Try to find you some Alliant 300MP. I'm running the 110 Barnes TAC-TX at 2315 fps out of my 8" noveske barrel loaded to 2.260" mag length. I've found 300MP to give anywhere from 80-200fps velocity increase over H110/W296 depending on which cartridge I'm loading for.
I have been using CCI No. 41 primers in all of my 300 Blackout so far. I have been collecting different brands and plan to do some testing soon to see how much difference they make. I'm even planning to try small pistol primers. I routinely use different brand primers than the recipes call for, and just start low and work my way up. So far I haven't blown my face off.
I agree with you, the sound of rain you mentioned in the video might actually be unburned powder. If you try small rifle magnum primers, you should probably start from a lower charge all over again.
I don't remember exactly what I said in this video, but the VMax is designed to be a varmint bullet. Or course it's great for hunting! I must have misspoke. I want more weight retention and penetration for medium and big game, though. The VMax is made for explosive expansion and minimal penetration.
While this is an old Vid now, it makes so much sense. You're the guy I look to for basic information. You're close to right in saying using your loads is for idiots. However, your 6.5 Grendel load of 25.4 grains worked perfectly for me. (LOL) I didn't develop the load, I just used what shot best for you. (It was not an over max charge) I have yet to find a load that shot better for my 18 inch, Atheris Barreled, Grendel. I would never follow you over max listed. New loaders should NOT take UA-cam short cuts. My 300' are 10.5 and a 16 inch. My 10.5 is faster than your 8.5, physics! Keep going Johnny, you are the best source of data on UA-cam.
you need at least an 11 inch barrel and use small rifle magnum primers to get the speed you are looking for. I load 300 Blackout as well but I have a 16 inch barrel. I have not used small rifle magnum primers yet, I am still fire forming brass.
How do you get anymore than 20grs of anything in a 300aac case. Mine are full to the top of the case at 20grs and I’m loading lake city brass. Anything else takes even less to fill
You won't get as much velocity with that boat tail bullet as you did with the flat base bullet. There simply is not enough case capacity. Not only the boat tail but the long bearing surface will cause a decrease in case capacity and an increase in pressure. I would like to see the V-max at this velocity into ballistic gel since it is a varmint bullet, however at this velocity it might actually perform well.
The number one reason not to copy anyone else's load, especially in 300 AAC, with small charge weights of fast burning propellants is variation in case volume. My Starline brass measures 23.06 grains of water. My Lake City brass measures 24.32 grains of water, which makes a huge difference in pressure with the same charge weight. As the case volume decreases, you have to reduce the propellant charge. Case manufacturers don't make everything to the same exact dimensions. The case wall thickness can vary greatly from one manufacturer to another. Thus the case volume will vary greatly. My charge weight of W296 using the 110 Grain V-Max bullets in Starline brass is 1.3 grains lower than in LC brass, achieving roughly the same velocity, in the same rifle. The only variable being case volume.
This question is a little off subject but I trust your opinion. Could .556 be loaded with the right amount of 1680 to push a 55gr faster out of a 8 inch barrel to make it work more effectively like a 300blk was designed for a short barrel.
I would say no, because 5.56 uses a gas port much further down the barrel than blackout's pistol length gas port. So you need a slower burning powder. Blackout powders will cycle 5.56, but you will reach pressure limits before you reach the same velocity as H335.
I know this video is old but with that barrel, I would think a pistol powder like 2400 or Blue Dot might work out better. It looks like you're not burning all the powder in that short of a barrel.
Man you gotta get some h110 powder, push these bad boys a bit faster and i did not think that those primers were very flat so you could probably crank those loads up a bit more. Ughhhh i do not know i have been hand loading for my 8mm mauser and i know that i can crank a 150 grain bullet out to almost 3000 fps which really does flatten the primer without being close to over pressure.
Because maybe different brass, different primers, different seating depth, different test barrel. Maybe. This is why you start low and work up. Don't blow your face off.
Add 8 more inches to that barrel and be done with it. Then you can get picky on powder and primers if you ain't happy. Keep that shorty for subs. Great videos. Keep them coming. I'm a bit behind. Im in Conroe Tx. Shot on my property. If you are near hit me up. I love shooting by 300BO.
Those lee trimmers work real nice but god damn do they chew up my fingers, and my gloves if I use them. If you havent seen them, check out the Worlds CHEAPEST trimmer. Its a copy of the worlds finest trimmer and they work great, plus its adjustable unlike the lee. Ive trimmed about 3000 223 with mine so far and its still going strong on its first cutter. Gonna order a 300blk one this week.
Get a large window red dot like eotech or holosun 512c , it will make stock almost unneeded. YOU just bend elbows , touch your chick with your fist that hold the rear end of the gun and unload the mag . No - stock -necessary ! ( you will need effective muzzle break )
i tryed 21 grns of lil gun/max/w 125 sst,cci 450= blew all 5 primers out of cases=dont go by hodgedon data,start low,lc brass,16 inch 1-7 twst bbl,ill let u know fri,range opens,19,19.5,im gettin brave again,5 at 20,to test
You may need to add a disclaimer at the beginning. People will take advantage where they can. They may do it on purpose to try to get something. Its a sad world, but its true.
I totally agree. My pistol is hard to shoot properly...well is there really a "proper" way? I have an arm brace. That sucks. I have a one point sling attached, which if I pull it out tight in front of me, I get an acceptable sight picture. But only two points of contact, and not very solid either..kinda like shooting a really big pistol with a lower handguard. Anyway, yeah, I'm seriously considering just paying the stupid tax and SBRing it, just so it is more shootable.... I hate the idea of registering my firearm, though. Repeal the NFA Repeal the GCA Disband the ATF God Bless America
The hardest thing that I find shooting an AR pistol is the urge to shoulder it. Other than that, I kind of like it better because it is lighter, and more mobile.
I tried to follow but between dropping and throwing tools, brass, and just about everything, I had to stop and take a Xanax. I would love to take a peak and see how this guy handles his guns and ammo at the range.
Glad I found this video. I am working up with the 110 V-Max and W296 now in an 8” pistol. Good data to have.
"...neighbor's dogs and stray cats...." LMAO!
As I read the comments below or before me I have to comment. I have 30-06,308, 30 carbine. I am an avid 38/357 pistol and rifle shooter. I have numerous 223/556 firearms. Point is why the 300 BO. Well I use H 110 powder for 357(9 firearms). I have 1000"s 223/556 brass, I have 1000"s 308 diameter bullets. The 300 BO is an awesome 300 yard deer caliber. Great timber rifle, black bear and cougar annihilator!!! No recoil very accurate and I have all the components already. Not to mention the subsonic ability. PLEASE try the Everglades Ammo bullets. Their 135 gr fmj with cone-lure is great for the 300. Their 75 gr 224 bullets are totally awesome in the 556 loads. I also use their bullets by the 1000 in 38/357. End note is I think I have watch every video on this channel. Keep up the great work.
Hey Johnny, love your videos keep em coming. I have been hand loading for over 30 years and you teach this old dog new tricks. I do have to pass a time saver on to you after watching this video. I use the same same Lee trimmer set up. I don't use the shell locking holder anymore, just put the cutter with the depth pin in your drill chuck and hold the cartridge case in your hand. You can go through a tray pretty quick this way because you dont have to stop each time to unlock and lock a new case in the holder ;)
I seem to be getting very similar results. With a 10.5" barrel, I started seeing the SD get pretty low around the 20 grain point. At 21grains it dropped to 10 with a 5 shot average of 2264. My COL was a bit longer than yours though - 2.1" as I didn't want to compress too much to begin with. It seems that that combo really starts ticking well with a bit of compression, and my next tests will be around the 20-21 grain mark with varying lengths to optimize groups and velocities a bit. I have not shot groups yet as time has been limited, but this recipe seems to be pretty decent for short barrels. I don not have access to a 16" barrel so to everyone out there that thinks of trying this in a 16" - be careful. That being said, thanks for the videos John!
I love those videos sir, Even your frustration and sarcasm goes to something good. Great info about using the 8.5 inch barrel and reloading. I was considering abandoning my 10.5" idea in favor of 8.5 and you just saved me a bunch of frustrations. I don'e need max velocity for my needs and 12.5 is a bit too long for what I'm building. Thanks you, sir!
I shoot in all kinds of outdoor environments, mostly old gravel pits, and logging landings. Lately I've made it a habit of bringing a tarp with me, for the brass to land on. It's now pretty necessary, as I am the proud owner of lots of Starline brass and can't afford to lose it..LOL
Anyway, it works great, and I'm no longer spending half an hour wondering around looking for brass after I'm done shooting. Haven't lost one case since I started using my tarp!
Also, thank you for all the good information on how to identify pressure signs on my brass. It has been super helpful, especially on days where I've forgot my chrony or too lazy to set it up. And I've done most all my load work ups anyway, so other than curiosity I don't use it as much lately. Will be dragging it out again soon, though, as I'm starting to work up loads for my .357 mag/.38 spl. Your videos on that subject have already been invaluable on that...Thanks!
That's going fast out of a short barrel! My 8.5" is getting 2150. I'm afraid of loading it hotter with all that increased pressure. I enjoy your channel
+The Immortal You need training
Oh man you watch my videos? I had no idea
+The Immortal Yeah, absolutely. I still need to catch up on a lot of your older stuff but I've enjoyed everything I've watched so far.
Back to your original comment...I'm surprised I was able to get to max case capacity without seeing pressure issues with the brass. I really didn't like seeing the jackets getting marred with the full case, so I'll need to back off a bit if only to avoid that. Can't wait to try the Barnes bullets!
@@JohnnysReloadingBench factory loaded hornady brown box listed .300whisper, 110gr vmax at 2350fps. Has a OAL of 2.100". That's .050" more case fill capacity.
@@echota23 2350 factory Hornady velocity number on the ammo box is most likely out of a 16” barrel. They are always optimistic and best case scenario, would be interesting to see how much .050” more capacity would give.
I built mine from the ground up as a stamped SBR with a 10.5" barrel. I have the dies and a bottle of W296 and an assortment of bullets of different types/weights, but I just haven't gotten around to working up any loads for it yet. But I'm looking forward to it. Thanks for the videos. BTW, if you ever find a heavy bullet for suppressed use that will perform well at subsonic velocities, please let us all know!
Wouldn't it be more efficient to leave the case in the holder on the drill after the trim and use the chamfer and debur tools while it is chucked?
Yeah, I was thinking the same. And when youre done with all the cases put the primer tool in the drill and clean the pockets that way as well.
Ive had a can of 1680 for like 5 years, it was the first powder I ever bought and it was for x39 which was a dumb caliber to start reloading for lol. I can FINALLY use the damn 1680 now though. I might even disassemble the x39 loads I made because I never even shot them in all that time.
Die Set - RCBS .300 AAC Blackout SB (small base) P/N 22407
Primer Pocket Swager Tool - RCBS P/N 9481 (mild push)
Brass - Lake City 5.56 (home cut and reformed) * Trim Length 1.364" thru 1.361"
Powder - Winchester 296 - 20.5 grains
Primers - CCI Magnum Small Rifle Primers (#450)
Bullet - Hornady V-Max 110 grain .308 #23010
Overall Length (OAL) - 2.030" thru 2.035"
Ruger Mini 14 300 Blackout
Barrel - 16"
Rifling 1:7 (RH Twist)
Chronograph - ProChrono
Distance - Approximately 10'
Average Velocity: 2475 fps
Muzzle Energy: 1495.92 ft/lbs.
I never use anything other than Winchester 296 or H110. Primers are slightly flattened but no fall outs. Brass is not stretched and once resized and de-primmed fit perfectly in my L.E. Wilson 300 Blackout Case Gauge.
I use only the Caldwell Ammo Box (hinged) for my 300 Blackout. Caldwell box for .223 - 5.56 - .204
+TOBORE8THMAN Update - Experimented with 21 grains of W296. All other loading parameters mention above remain the same except the increase powder charge. Powder was fed to the cartridge via Lyman Powder Charger #55. Here are my chronograph results:
2505 fps
2496 fps
2490 fps
2513 fps
2510 fps
Average velocity - 2503 fps
Average muzzle energy - 1530 ft/lbs.
Temperature - 49 degrees F
Humidity - 30 %
While a fun experiment. Not interested in loading anything other than 125 grain bullets for now on. Only load either the 125 grain Hornady SST or the Sierra Matchking 125 grain HP. Working on an charge of 19.2 grains W296 with velocities hovering around the 2330-2355 fps range.
Loved your videos and I'm looking forward to more of you 300 Blackout loading videos. Thank you!!!
Try to find you some Alliant 300MP. I'm running the 110 Barnes TAC-TX at 2315 fps out of my 8" noveske barrel loaded to 2.260" mag length. I've found 300MP to give anywhere from 80-200fps velocity increase over H110/W296 depending on which cartridge I'm loading for.
I like your sense of humor
I know this is old but dam that is amazing!!!!!!! In a 8.5?!?!
Seriously! I'm only getting 2,163fps in my 9in barrel.
Hello wondering if you have any plans to test the hornady 190 gr sub x bullet?
They aren't the best expanding bullet at sub velocity but okay for pest and suppressed shooting
Hodgdon calls for #7 1/2 Small Rifle Magnum Primers... Where did you manage to find those? Did you replace them with CCI450?
I have been using CCI No. 41 primers in all of my 300 Blackout so far. I have been collecting different brands and plan to do some testing soon to see how much difference they make. I'm even planning to try small pistol primers. I routinely use different brand primers than the recipes call for, and just start low and work my way up. So far I haven't blown my face off.
I agree with you, the sound of rain you mentioned in the video might actually be unburned powder. If you try small rifle magnum primers, you should probably start from a lower charge all over again.
Just use CCI Magnum Small Rifle Primers #450. I use nothing else.
41 are mag.?
By any chance did you do any accuracy testing with the fastest loadings ?
Love the vid but i disagree with the hornady vmax not being a hunting round thats all i use for groundhog through grizzly
And i look at videos for load data ill the time its the best way to find good info then work up to wat you have
I don't remember exactly what I said in this video, but the VMax is designed to be a varmint bullet. Or course it's great for hunting! I must have misspoke. I want more weight retention and penetration for medium and big game, though. The VMax is made for explosive expansion and minimal penetration.
Aw alright
I have to agree with you, I understand that we're not pushing the V-max fast at all but how will it hold up when it strikes bone.
Wow, I haven't ever seen angry Johnny before.
While this is an old Vid now, it makes so much sense. You're the guy I look to for basic information. You're close to right in saying using your loads is for idiots. However, your 6.5 Grendel load of 25.4 grains worked perfectly for me. (LOL) I didn't develop the load, I just used what shot best for you. (It was not an over max charge) I have yet to find a load that shot better for my 18 inch, Atheris Barreled, Grendel. I would never follow you over max listed.
New loaders should NOT take UA-cam short cuts. My 300' are 10.5 and a 16 inch. My 10.5 is faster than your 8.5, physics! Keep going Johnny, you are the best source of data on UA-cam.
you need at least an 11 inch barrel and use small rifle magnum primers to get the speed you are looking for. I load 300 Blackout as well but I have a 16 inch barrel. I have not used small rifle magnum primers yet, I am still fire forming brass.
CCI No. 41 primers are magnum primers for those who did not know.
I think that, at 29:18, I would have started using new/newer brass.
Lmfaoo neighbors dogs and cats
H-110 I’m going to try with 16 inch barrel, with Hornaday 125 HP.
Your thoughts?
Nice video’s!
How do you get anymore than 20grs of anything in a 300aac case. Mine are full to the top of the case at 20grs and I’m loading lake city brass. Anything else takes even less to fill
You won't get as much velocity with that boat tail bullet as you did with the flat base bullet. There simply is not enough case capacity. Not only the boat tail but the long bearing surface will cause a decrease in case capacity and an increase in pressure. I would like to see the V-max at this velocity into ballistic gel since it is a varmint bullet, however at this velocity it might actually perform well.
The number one reason not to copy anyone else's load, especially in 300 AAC, with small charge weights of fast burning propellants is variation in case volume. My Starline brass measures 23.06 grains of water. My Lake City brass measures 24.32 grains of water, which makes a huge difference in pressure with the same charge weight. As the case volume decreases, you have to reduce the propellant charge. Case manufacturers don't make everything to the same exact dimensions. The case wall thickness can vary greatly from one manufacturer to another. Thus the case volume will vary greatly. My charge weight of W296 using the 110 Grain V-Max bullets in Starline brass is 1.3 grains lower than in LC brass, achieving roughly the same velocity, in the same rifle. The only variable being case volume.
Have you tried N130 in the Blackout? Seems to give great velocities in 223 and was wondering what it could do in the shorter cartridge.
Squirrel! J/k good video!
This question is a little off subject but I trust your opinion. Could .556 be loaded with the right amount of 1680 to push a 55gr faster out of a 8 inch barrel to make it work more effectively like a 300blk was designed for a short barrel.
I would say no, because 5.56 uses a gas port much further down the barrel than blackout's pistol length gas port. So you need a slower burning powder. Blackout powders will cycle 5.56, but you will reach pressure limits before you reach the same velocity as H335.
Wonder how many neighbours cats Johnny harvested 5 years ago. Lol
getting over 1,700 fps with a 165 grain btsp from a 10" pistol with lil gun. That has quite a bit of work up to be done on it as well.
I am messing around with 110 grain bullets with little gun powder
That Vmax is a varmint bullet for a 308 or 3006. In 300 blk its not. Keep it around 2000 or 2100 and its awesome. Try it on some gel.
what primers do you what do you think r the best for 300 AAC BLACKOUT
Mitchell Zajac #400 CCI small rifle primers work just fine for 300 blackout
I know this video is old but with that barrel, I would think a pistol powder like 2400 or Blue Dot might work out better. It looks like you're not burning all the powder in that short of a barrel.
Man you gotta get some h110 powder, push these bad boys a bit faster and i did not think that those primers were very flat so you could probably crank those loads up a bit more. Ughhhh i do not know i have been hand loading for my 8mm mauser and i know that i can crank a 150 grain bullet out to almost 3000 fps which really does flatten the primer without being close to over pressure.
Time for LUDICROUS SPEED.
Have you (or anyone on here) used H4198 for supers around 150gr? Thanks
crossan008 i was wondering the same thing
anybody know why new Lyman book shows 19.5 gr max and barnes site says 20.2 max for 110 tac-tx fb w/296 powder?
Because maybe different brass, different primers, different seating depth, different test barrel. Maybe.
This is why you start low and work up.
Don't blow your face off.
Add 8 more inches to that barrel and be done with it. Then you can get picky on powder and primers if you ain't happy. Keep that shorty for subs. Great videos. Keep them coming. I'm a bit behind. Im in Conroe Tx. Shot on my property. If you are near hit me up. I love shooting by 300BO.
You mad bro? Love the video's though
Those lee trimmers work real nice but god damn do they chew up my fingers, and my gloves if I use them. If you havent seen them, check out the Worlds CHEAPEST trimmer. Its a copy of the worlds finest trimmer and they work great, plus its adjustable unlike the lee. Ive trimmed about 3000 223 with mine so far and its still going strong on its first cutter. Gonna order a 300blk one this week.
Maybe 110 needs magnum primers
Get a large window red dot like eotech or holosun 512c , it will make stock almost unneeded. YOU just bend elbows , touch your chick with your fist that hold the rear end of the gun and unload the mag . No - stock -necessary ! ( you will need effective muzzle break )
i tryed 21 grns of lil gun/max/w 125 sst,cci 450= blew all 5 primers out of cases=dont go by hodgedon data,start low,lc brass,16 inch 1-7 twst bbl,ill let u know fri,range opens,19,19.5,im gettin brave again,5 at 20,to test
You may need to add a disclaimer at the beginning. People will take advantage where they can. They may do it on purpose to try to get something. Its a sad world, but its true.
I totally agree. My pistol is hard to shoot properly...well is there really a "proper" way?
I have an arm brace. That sucks. I have a one point sling attached, which if I pull it out tight in front of me, I get an acceptable sight picture. But only two points of contact, and not very solid either..kinda like shooting a really big pistol with a lower handguard. Anyway, yeah, I'm seriously considering just paying the stupid tax and SBRing it, just so it is more shootable.... I hate the idea of registering my firearm, though.
Repeal the NFA
Repeal the GCA
Disband the ATF
God Bless America
The hardest thing that I find shooting an AR pistol is the urge to shoulder it. Other than that, I kind of like it better because it is lighter, and more mobile.
I tried to follow but between dropping and throwing tools, brass, and just about everything, I had to stop and take a Xanax. I would love to take a peak and see how this guy handles his guns and ammo at the range.