To add strength to the mounting holes in fiberglass or FRP parts, a washer can be glassed in and redrilled later to clear it out. Also, as someone that worked in a fiberglass boat plant, the tip about the chopped glass in resin is spot on.
As a wooden kayak and canoe builder who goes through gallons on marine epoxy resin and rolls of fiberglass, your tips are generally spot on. Putting chopped mat into resin is a classic tip. The fiberglass mat is held together with a binder which dissolves in resin. You can also make a thicker resin mixture (like a putty) that won't sag by adding flour to it. The commercial products are wood flour and a fumed silica (aka Aerosil or Cabosil) but kitchen wheat flour also works. For a someone totally new to fiberglass work I'd consider starting them with epoxy. It's more expensive but heaps friendlier to use. First, the smell isn't as noxious polyester (most car and boat repair kits), the mix ratios are simpler (usually around 2:1, and the pot life is a lot longer (30-45 minutes depending on the hardener). It also doesn't "kick" fast like polyester.
I worked in the same building with a fiberglass firm that made pieces for Moroso 50 years back. One thing they did was lay strips of corrugated cardboard and glass over them for strength. They also used small diameter cardboard tube (13mm) in stress points. Their shoes lasted a few weeks covered in resin. The inhalation of fumes made them... interesting.☺
From someone who has probably wrapped a mile of hot pipe with 2-4" fiber glass rolls to keep the heat in: it really isn't too bad to work with bare handed/skinned you just HAVE TO plan to make a 'tape hand' with blue painters tape or in a pinch packing tape to get all the itchies off your skin. Sounds silly but works amazingly well!
I did a week's work experience at the old Seawind catamaran factory in Wonoona - gotta say fibreglassing a boat from the inside is possibly one of the most unpleasant things I've ever done. Itchy arms for days & intense fumes have put me off it since!
@@BennysCustomWorks Noo, I do not unfortunately. They came attached to one of my Minis at the time of import. Do you have an cutout on right rear for your fueldoor? Mine has. They might not be the same after all, maybe.
Hey Benny...great Ep! I save the sanding dust when levelling new fiberglass... mixed with resin this makes a great fine scratch filler, but obviously has no structural strength....
Great timing for me with this coming out when I need to repair some damaged body work. Very helpful. Roughly what grit is the sand paper you used? Thanks.
@@BennysCustomWorks Yeah heavy grit or score the shit out of it with a razor knife. On repair work you will only ever get a physical/mechanical bond so a rough surface works best. If you need maximum strength, say for a bar or lower lip, drill small holes around the area being repaired and sand them down so you have no hard edges to hold air. When you laminate from both sides you will have a mechanical bond to the original surface and a chemical bond holding all three layers together that will help prevent future delamination. Also if you can only work one side at a time don't stress as the resin will still reach a chemical bond for about 10-20 days depending on the temperature you're working in or just ask for unwaxed resin if buying bulk like a 20lt pail. But most of all be careful with the MEKP catalyst as it will burn skin and by the time you feel the pain it's to late, get it in your eyes....3 seconds and it will begin to burn and send you blind. Lastly, 100% keep your work dry, water will kill the catalyst dead and stop the reaction in the resin leaving you with a uncured spot that can be a total pain to remove.
Love the nuggets of wisdom you pass on from your prior experiences. Thanks. You also realise that you’re going to have to release a ‘the background sounds of BCW’ soundtrack at some point right? Dig the music just as much as the video itself!
No joke, this is actually quite dangerous, PPE is needed. Maybe a little less for limited/DIY-exposure than for professionals. The fibers are nasty little buggers that will enter your body through both skin and lungs. Better safe than sorry when it comes to these things. With that said, I really liked your instructions. They were clear and to the point, thank you for sharing. Some additions/tips from me would be that I find rowing mat easier to work with than chopped mat. I also use tape from the front side but have found that transparent packaging tape gives you better control over air voids. I usually build my repairs in V-shape to ensure good adhesion and strength. If the part is thick enough i do two V's, one from each side. P.s. If you work with Epoxi you can sandwich your repair in tape which isnt a great idea with polyester resin..😂
Polyester resin is really bad to work with: very short pot life, strong exothermic reaction and even stronger smell. Epoxy resin is way easier to handle, at least for the pot life.
"one of one" workbench? So, it's the only one out of the 87,000 that were built that year optioned with the engine block warmer, grey floor mats instead of black, snow tyres, and radio delete in the baby shit green colour? Wow dude, you'll fit right in at any American car show!
@@BennysCustomWorks Car life, when your side projects create more side projects to your main builds that you have parts for but can't work on because of all the side projects that need to be done first.....!!
To add strength to the mounting holes in fiberglass or FRP parts, a washer can be glassed in and redrilled later to clear it out. Also, as someone that worked in a fiberglass boat plant, the tip about the chopped glass in resin is spot on.
Thanks mate :D
Bingo to both, same with carbon fiber work.
yup, learned the chopped mat and resin trick from my brother who spent a good number of years building fibreglass speedboats :)
As a Pajero mini owner myself i thank you for uploading this video! 👍👍👍👍👍
15 degrees sounds great. It's like 31 and 70% humidity here. And it's only getting started with the miserable weather.
Just watching this episode made me itchy
Benny's Videos are always really interesting. Needs many more views
As a wooden kayak and canoe builder who goes through gallons on marine epoxy resin and rolls of fiberglass, your tips are generally spot on. Putting chopped mat into resin is a classic tip. The fiberglass mat is held together with a binder which dissolves in resin. You can also make a thicker resin mixture (like a putty) that won't sag by adding flour to it. The commercial products are wood flour and a fumed silica (aka Aerosil or Cabosil) but kitchen wheat flour also works.
For a someone totally new to fiberglass work I'd consider starting them with epoxy. It's more expensive but heaps friendlier to use. First, the smell isn't as noxious polyester (most car and boat repair kits), the mix ratios are simpler (usually around 2:1, and the pot life is a lot longer (30-45 minutes depending on the hardener). It also doesn't "kick" fast like polyester.
I worked in the same building with a fiberglass firm that made pieces for Moroso 50 years back. One thing they did was lay strips of corrugated cardboard and glass over them for strength. They also used small diameter cardboard tube (13mm) in stress points. Their shoes lasted a few weeks covered in resin. The inhalation of fumes made them... interesting.☺
From someone who has probably wrapped a mile of hot pipe with 2-4" fiber glass rolls to keep the heat in: it really isn't too bad to work with bare handed/skinned you just HAVE TO plan to make a 'tape hand' with blue painters tape or in a pinch packing tape to get all the itchies off your skin. Sounds silly but works amazingly well!
Nice job brother, catch ya next week!
I did a week's work experience at the old Seawind catamaran factory in Wonoona - gotta say fibreglassing a boat from the inside is possibly one of the most unpleasant things I've ever done. Itchy arms for days & intense fumes have put me off it since!
Needed this guide
Awesome video Benny, and it’s great to see other people’s take and tips on this sort of stuff. Looking forward to seeing the outcome fitted up
I have the same flarekit. But missing the bumperbar extensions. Care to make & sell spares? 😅
Do you know who made them?
Thanks :)
@@BennysCustomWorks Noo, I do not unfortunately. They came attached to one of my Minis at the time of import. Do you have an cutout on right rear for your fueldoor? Mine has. They might not be the same after all, maybe.
Great vlog lads, very informative ❤💯🔥
Aluminum tape (pronounced Ah-loom-in-um) works great to build a shape on the outside edges while you lay the glass up on the back side
Hey Benny...great Ep! I save the sanding dust when levelling new fiberglass... mixed with resin this makes a great fine scratch filler, but obviously has no structural strength....
Great timing for me with this coming out when I need to repair some damaged body work. Very helpful. Roughly what grit is the sand paper you used? Thanks.
Normally 40-60 to get going but go gently
@@BennysCustomWorks Yeah heavy grit or score the shit out of it with a razor knife. On repair work you will only ever get a physical/mechanical bond so a rough surface works best. If you need maximum strength, say for a bar or lower lip, drill small holes around the area being repaired and sand them down so you have no hard edges to hold air. When you laminate from both sides you will have a mechanical bond to the original surface and a chemical bond holding all three layers together that will help prevent future delamination. Also if you can only work one side at a time don't stress as the resin will still reach a chemical bond for about 10-20 days depending on the temperature you're working in or just ask for unwaxed resin if buying bulk like a 20lt pail. But most of all be careful with the MEKP catalyst as it will burn skin and by the time you feel the pain it's to late, get it in your eyes....3 seconds and it will begin to burn and send you blind.
Lastly, 100% keep your work dry, water will kill the catalyst dead and stop the reaction in the resin leaving you with a uncured spot that can be a total pain to remove.
Love the nuggets of wisdom you pass on from your prior experiences. Thanks. You also realise that you’re going to have to release a ‘the background sounds of BCW’ soundtrack at some point right? Dig the music just as much as the video itself!
Great video thanks for sharing Benny
No joke, this is actually quite dangerous, PPE is needed. Maybe a little less for limited/DIY-exposure than for professionals. The fibers are nasty little buggers that will enter your body through both skin and lungs. Better safe than sorry when it comes to these things.
With that said, I really liked your instructions. They were clear and to the point, thank you for sharing.
Some additions/tips from me would be that I find rowing mat easier to work with than chopped mat. I also use tape from the front side but have found that transparent packaging tape gives you better control over air voids. I usually build my repairs in V-shape to ensure good adhesion and strength. If the part is thick enough i do two V's, one from each side.
P.s. If you work with Epoxi you can sandwich your repair in tape which isnt a great idea with polyester resin..😂
Literally used the same kit to mould 2 different bumpers together
When there’s no aftermarket, gotta make your own shit
Farken hate this job, but I keep doin it
At least doing it yourself is always a good feeling, the only time I've had to deal with fibreglass is house insulation
Ripper vid!
Polyester resin is really bad to work with: very short pot life, strong exothermic reaction and even stronger smell. Epoxy resin is way easier to handle, at least for the pot life.
Where can I get the HKS table?
Sorry it’s 1/1 worldwide . #backshelf
PRO TIP FOR FIBREGLASS - USE TALC POWER TO BLOCK YOUR PORES BEFORE TOUCHING THE FIBRES.
You're either getting old or your beard is covered with fiberglass 😄
"I'm not a PPE-ologist" yeah I can tell from the acetone rub without gloves
Should’ve used two minute noodles and super glue.
Has goggles.. Doesn't wear them. PPE done to industry standards.
He was using safety squints, better than safety goggles/glasses 👍🏻👍🏻
Benny follows the Chuck Norris school of face protection. Under that beard......
Is another fist!.
Should have used some JDM noodles as filler.
That matting is awful to work with, it would be good if they made stuff that doesn’t separate as easily when trying to soak it in the resin
"one of one" workbench? So, it's the only one out of the 87,000 that were built that year optioned with the engine block warmer, grey floor mats instead of black, snow tyres, and radio delete in the baby shit green colour? Wow dude, you'll fit right in at any American car show!
Can’t tell if you’re angry or continuing the very clear joke.
Can you sack off all these side projects and get a shift on with the viper?😅 Sorry, please 👍
And do what to it? The Viper is a side project.
@@BennysCustomWorks Car life, when your side projects create more side projects to your main builds that you have parts for but can't work on because of all the side projects that need to be done first.....!!
Moist
Indeed