Replacing A Leaking Windshield The Hard Way | Project Mosquito Ep105
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- Опубліковано 9 лют 2025
- Our custom supercar needs a bonded windscreen surround and we need to repair the original surround so let's make a mold for a composite bonded windscreen. a first for a Cox GTM.
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I can't believe there's only 14.7 k of us following these guys. I watch with my coffee and play it in my garage while doing my own build. Thank you guys. We are all learning together.
I agtee
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Below 15°C is too cold for your resin to cure, but it makes it less stressful to apply. You can build a little tent of some sort with an oil radiator heater to cure your parts in.
🎉 Good comment. I don't think people give enough weight to how important temperatures are. The difference between a hot day and a cold day in your workshop can be the biggest issue with composites. Not much worse than having everything kick too fast because it's hot AF. 😂
Me in the 90s - watched some guy make stuff with PVA glue on TV
Me today - watched some guy make stuff with PVA glue on UA-cam.
As an alternative to sheet wax you can use canning paraffin wax instead. Just melt it in an old metal can and paint it on the work surface. Having rebuilt a Mitsubishi Eclipse completely out of carbon fiber I know a thing or two about release agents for composites. Having made negatives off the original metal parts it was a struggle until I found how easy it was to wax the parts before applying the fiberglass mold parts. I built boxes out of plywood and bits of old pallets as bracing then backfilled them with expanding foam while it was still attached to the original part. It made some reasonably rigid molds to put the carbon and resin on and vacuum bag. From there it was a matter of using 3M panel bond to glue all the parts together which worked exceptionally well. I shaved almost half a ton off the base chassis without compromising the structural properties of it all. The door skins, inners, and crash bar was done the same way. I also used this process on the other body panels which worked superbly. I was building the layers with 3 carbon weave, 2 Kevlar, 2 carbon, 2 more Kevlar, and 3 final carbon layers. It was well strong...
I have this idea to use positive pressure instead of vacuum. Basically hydroforming prepreg fiber sheets. I just dont have any money to survive let alone do projects.
Thank you guys for giving us all a an honest (and occasionally negative) narrative in such a unique and inspirational project 🦟
Seems very tedious. Your dedication to your vision is inspiring. I can't wait for this project to end. Then you need another one to keep the channel running. Thanks for sharing. truly inspiring and Awesome.
Thanks!
Thank you!
Great to watch the developments and the learning curve. Wonderful progress....
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Love your videos. 🎉
Happy birthday
Happy Birthday 🦟🦟🦟
🦟🏎️ really enjoying the build. Keep up the good work.
I'm looking forward to the overall body shape, would be great if someone artistic could draw out your ideas like think did for HBJ"s alfa-ferrari
Reminds me of making a race car body mould out cement. Only had enough money at the time for four bags. Worked reasonably well considering. Actual body was made by a swimming pool company for me. Necessity is the mother of invention.
Happy birthday 🇦🇺
I look forward to your videos every week, this is some of the only UA-cam content that I sit down and drop everything else to watch. No games, no peojects, just Mosquito. I think the illusion at play isn't so much that the car looks wide, but that the body looks so incredibly narrow on camera, because you can't see the taper.
I would recommend Bill's Build & Race he has some good fibreglass tutorials and just work from a home workshop so insane shop setups also covers things i you would find useful like the use of kevlar in impact since it helps stop the shattering effect of fibreglass good for inside wheel arch's and the lip of the front end
Not all resins will eat that foam. I can't remember which is which but if polyester eats it, epoxy might not
but lot better safe mold foam paint foam first whit water base paint, then lot sanding come smoot clean piece. epoxy have better use all ,have little expensive than polyester resin but better lot.
This is great stuff and am liking the fact you are putting a lot of thought to the wheelbase to wheel track ratio. In my experience of nearly 50yrs in cars/motorsport this is critical for high speed cornering stability. Alan Staniforth’s book is brilliant, although there are several others. Changing rear suspension on some cars, dry minis and Ford Escorts , to upright coilovers caused them to roll. Much more than standard! The why is important!!! I know about stiffer springs and antiroll bars but this is not a realy good resolution imo.Get it right first time. I would also look at Lotus Europa set up?
Best of luck with the project, this is really interesting!
Always such great explanations. Love the progress
There are no flies on these lads! 😁👍🦟
Well that's because it's so cold in the garage. I know, had to say it lol. Love learning from them.
Another great video, Happy Birthday🦟 🥳🍥
once you start the fiberglass im sure some lovly frennch sun coming through will help it cure.
I'm also made with PVA and foam! loved the video
With mold making that foam form that you made, that is your plug. You create a mold on top of it after you make it the exact shape you want. Then you use the mold to make what you have as a foam plug into a useful sheet of preformed fiberglass.
I don't know if that was very straightforward so I will reword it. The foam form is the plug in this case, you apply fiberglass over it to create a mold, then you use that mold to apply fiberglass in the shape of the original plug. That gives you the best likeliness of a positive outcome with surface finish as well as keeping the dimensions that you wanted in the first place.
A cheap spray / fabreglassing booth can be found in a large garden store sold as a portable greenhouse, just add some heaters and heat lamps
Great video again, happy birthday!
Hope you had a nice Birthday love the video 37:38 mosquito
Happy birthday Oliver. I had TR7 lights on the rear of mine.🦟
Very nice work. I'm trying to make a flush fit in steel. Yours looks easier to repair, and I think it'll turn out nicer!! Again, very nice work!!
Wow!🦟🦟🦟
Happy Birthday! 🎂🎈 🦟
GTM EVO OP
That was an informative explanation of the bodywork. As you said,the impression through the camera is misleading. Happy birthday Oliver and thanks to you all for the video. 🦟🦟🦟
No experience with tooling resin. But My Brother worked in GRP in 70s at a Norfolk boat yard. Also I have build RC boat hulls up to 5' long. And the Biggest mistake i have made is not leaving the hull in the mold long enough while the fibreglass is green, so I ended up with a scale Minesweeper that was an inch or two shorter and the hull sides were 3 inches wider than the deck as it relaxed out of the mold. Mind you that was with the older style styrene type resins (the ones that smell like Isopon body filler )🦟🦟
You both get your blue peter badge for art. Happy birthday and your gonna have to get your mum to give us a wave.
Perhaps look at a couple marine / boat repair UA-cam videos. Parley Revival, and The Duracell Project.
Watch 'the cre8ors' Richard makes some fibreglass moulds for his Rb200 👍🏻
Liked and subbed. Did you consider cutting the body down the middle?
best widen body need do cut body center line dowm and then wide all together, but this is expensive problem, need made new windshield front windows dimension come wide too, and back window. but if want wide body good need doing, big fail have add fender wide body kit, worst idea ewer have. ugly.
If it's a one time mold just use paper mache .
Mix some PVA glue into water use it to wet paper strips and lay them onto the surface you want to take a mold of. Make sure to form any corners or lips without gaps or air pockets.
Use small strips of wood and bamboo skewers to reinforce .
Stop every few layers to allow to dry and scuff with sandpaper before sticking on new layers .
Make sure that there are no thick sections that will dry too slowly and cause the mold to warp
You can also use plastic wrap or packing tape to create section breaks.
Sorry mate but that is a terrible suggestion
@ .
What’s so terrible about it.
I’ve used it a number of times without problem.
@@anomamos9095 Hi there. I planned to write quite a lengthy reply but realised it can be summed quite quickly. Paper mache does not perform comparably with any of the more traditional methods in any metric except cost. I am happy that you have good results though!
@ .
I guess that you’re thinking of childhood arts and crafts paper mache.
What I’m referring to is actually laminated wood products little different from how fibre glass is made.
@@anomamos9095 laminating paper with pva is exactly what I read. They would end up with a mold which lacks rigidity, has large amounts of shrinkage, poor stability when exposed to tempersture and humidity changes, poor surface finish and it will require much more surface preparation when compared with epoxy and polyester resins. It is not coincidence that more people are not using paper mache within their composites projects (hahaha).
It'd be a lot faster doing that windscreen frame with a Festool Rotex sander and vacuum cleaner attached... check them out, or a Mirka equivalent. As said before, Polycell Polyskim or Finishing Skim as I think it is called painted on, brush or use a small roller, and then after sanded covered with emulsion paint (get a Durable Acrylic Matt) as this will seal the foam. It used to work on my industrial model making days on XPS, so can't see it not for you guys.
dont buy ewer any Festool machine, all have only ower price and many other lot cheapen brand have all same tools and lot better tools. idiot waste money Festool shit.
I guess one benefit of widening the body, but maintaining the windscreen geometry is that there will be more room in the doors for the window mechanisms.🦟
Really thought you had lost the plot at the start, but it all came together. Great video 🦟🦟
Brilliant "Art Attack"!!! Worked out well!!🦟
Interesting, never seen this done.
Q: could you not have built CaD / digital model and had it fab'ed ? Is that a process available in EU ? FYI: In US I could have had a online service do that.
These guys are still going to build this car for 10 years. I haven't watched for a year..... little progress. Watch them sand and talk for for many episodes.
10 year, were shit has waste lot time,
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Tooling resin takes a long time to gel and requires a relatively thick laminate to generate enough heat through its exothermic reaction to fully cure properly. Whenever I have used it, once the layup is complete we would put it under a large fan heater and essentially cooked it to get a proper cure. Another tip for gelcoating is to make sure you have enough airflow across the part to minimise any styrene build up in localised lows. Sometimes depending on the part shape you would gelcoat one side then roll the part over 90 or even 180 degrees (female box) to let the styrene vent out properly. Personally if it is for only 10 or less parts which will be getting painted any way I wouldn't bother using tooling gelcoat and resin, I would just stick with regular polyester and for the first layer that makes contact with the gelcoat a thin layer of 225 or 300g/m2. Tooling products are more for molds that you are going to be making 100s of part out of. Another aspect of plug and mold building is making sure there is a draft angle to the part or plug actually releases and not mechanically locked in. Do you know if you are going to handlay the final parts or resin infuse (better resin to glass ratio), if it's the latter the molds will need a larger flange and a path to flow across the full part. I don't know if any of that was helpful, but that has been my experience using tooling resins and what not in NZ. Best of luck and much love 🦟
Mantez
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Thank you for your hard work. Where did you buy the windshield out of curiosity. Thx
From Hambly but its made by Pilkington I believe who make screens for just about everything with wheels
Thanks for the video, but you are going down the Retropower road of talking to much and not working enough, only Dad was working and with all those words I dont actually know what you have made there or what you want to make ❤
i has be glassfiber factory working make mold, 3 year, and we build all mold at wood, and plywood, router uses lot and sanding lot mold, then paint resin all mold and then sanding 600,1000,2000,3000 grid paper all, lot work, boat cabins, car bed covers, many many different work, dont use resin under +15 celsius, not cure good. fail all expensive work.
I've liked last weeks and this video but still not exactly sure what you're doing, I'm sure it will do eventually😕🦟🦟
Happy birthday Oliver🎉🎉🎉🦟🦟🦟🦟🦟
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