Project 63 part 17 - Install steel main caps and line bore an A-Series block
Вставка
- Опубліковано 6 бер 2023
- We take a look at the MED steel main caps, install the AFS studs and have the block bored and line bored to suit.
Part 16 - • Project 63 part 16 - M...
--Video Contents--
0:30 - Block liners
2:10 - 1275 GT block
2:50 - Steel main caps
9:12 - AFS main studs
13:25 - Drilling and tapping the block
19:17 - Fitting the steel caps
20:56 - Block boring
22:15 - Installing liners
23:45 - Block honing
25:44 - Line boring the main caps
www.med-engineering.co.uk - Авто та транспорт
This is an actual demonstration of how to correct and do things even better than original
Awesome engineering. I’m very impressed with the thoroughness of preparation through to completion of machining.
My shop gets cleaned and organized often. Customers comment on it and feel as the work I do is also neat, organized and correct
Thanks, this was a very good video, I really enjoyed it.
Love the detail to all MED's products. Such great engineering and Steve knows his stuff. 👌
Incredible video very informative and a great piece of engineering
A masterclass in A-series engineering. Steve's knowledge is amazing , he's build 4 engines for me over the years (1430 5 speed , 1293 inline, 1000 mini 7 and super mighty mini) all are superb powerful drive-able engines. Spend your money well - go to MED
Really enjoy your knowledgeable input to this series , thank you 👍🙂
Just amazing, commentary brilliant
Another stunningly useful video. I’ve understood all the theories for years, but actually seeing it being done is highly illuminating. Very impressive seeing the care taken by the machinists too - seeing craftsmen take pride in their work is really pleasing. I’ll be trucking my blocks way down south to MED in future. Thanks for these videos, can’t wait for the next one. Cheers, Will
Wow brother, this is very interesting. I am from the USA. I really enjoy slow motion machine work. I had a friend back in the late 80s early 90 that had a Mini GTS I think it was. It was a race type version. His dad used to race them in the 70s here. He had to order a new block from France and then pretty much everything else lol. He essentially had a brand new high performance engine. As you can imagine, you can't just walk into a part store here back then and get anything for those little cars over here. Thank you for the content.
Nice work , impressive skill , a true world of real mechanic and machining .
Great video, I especially like the in depth detail that you have taken on this block
My Dad would have loved that , he had his apprenticeship at Armstrong Whitworth then moved on to British Steel, Jarrow. Both Foundries are now gone as is my Dad sadly !!!
Super video guys! Great insight into preparing the block for the steel crank. Thanks for sharing
No problem, glad it was useful :)
You were right on with using flanged sleeves and machining them for flats, I don’t know why you abandoned that plan.
I’d question the accuracy of the bore job as the oil pan rails aren’t always a datum location. The mains should have been finished first, and then the block mounted in the boring machine off the main datum line.
If they didn’t have that fixturing, cutting the deck off the mains and then referencing that deck surface to the boring bar would work too. It iften requires some shimming of that pan rail to dial in correctly.
The long end of the ARP stud is designed to apply torque force in the deep end of the hole and not on surface of the block to avoid strain and surface lift , that request to be sure than the threaded hole ( the real thread lenght ) is long enough to not stop the stud before it reach the end of the hole .
It’s worth mentioning that Teflon seals should NOT be lubricated when fitting. I learnt this the hard way fitting a crank seal to my defender (3 times 🙊)
Goes against everything I was taught.
I was lubricating the deal with the fluid it was going to contain, but it leaked each time.
New OEM seal each time and I was meticulous!
Quality 👍👍
Material is also remowed from the block, are you using oversize bearings or are you mowing crankshaft a little bit upwards.
I suspect that the multi-web crank with it's full counter weights has much less whip and hence less stress on the centre main cap.
Yes, although most multiweb-equipped motors are regularly taken to high RPM, so we would suggest steel main caps.
How long does this take?
Do you machine or check the mating face of the cap to ensure it is flat and not a finish produced by the side of an endmill?
These are CMM checked at the machine shop but we would always advise double checking everything when going to the nth degree on a race engine build.
At what power levels/rpm can the center main cap strap alone
be used?
There's no hard and fast rule on this. We tend to go for steel main caps alongside a steel crankshaft - higher sustained RPM. If money were no object, we'd do this to every block, but it's not always feasible.
Dear Steve I would like to develop this type main seal conversion for a 1964 Holden engines, could you please tell me the supplier of this type of seal . It would be appreciated Kit Cullen from Down Under
The second half was a bit boring 😂😂😂😜