Installing Surge Protection at the Electrical Disconnect Box! Pass Code! Protect the HVAC Unit!
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- Опубліковано 23 чер 2023
- In this HVAC Training Video, I show a Quick Install of a Ditek Surge Protector while NOT Double Lugging. We are not permitted by code to put two wires under a single lug. Electrical or HVAC licensed contractors should be installing a surge protector on the load wires inside the disconnect box if the building's breaker box does not have surge protection installed. This is because the circuit boards in modern HVAC systems are much more likely to fail if there are power problems due to grid issues, connection problems, or lightning strikes. Supervision is needed by a licensed HVACR Tech while performing tasks as Experience and Apprenticeship garners Wisdom and Safety.
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Information in this video is intended for educational purposes only. Any work related to the topics in this video should be performed by licensed technicians or by apprentices under the supervision of licensed technicians. AC Service Tech LLC is not responsible for any possible damages or injuries caused by the use or misuse of any information provided.
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#hvac #hvacr #hvactraining #surgeprotection #hvactraining101 #electrical #disconnect #ditek #wiring #wires #install
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For those of you not fully understanding the purpose of the surge protector.
The purpose of the surge protector is to take the blunt force of the power surge and sacrifice itself in order to protect the circuitry of the system. It can usually take several smaller hits before it's destroyed, but normally, one large hit will take it out. Now it doesn't shut the system down, because that's not its job, again, it's job is to take the blunt force of the surge so that the circuitry doesn't.
Great video Greg!
What about a phase loss monitor? That would shut the system down and sacrifice itself at the same time?
Er, Craig.
@@klabkebashwell a phase monitor would control a contractor normally which would open and close as the phase monitor sees fit. Different from surge protection but honestly just as important
Or you can put a fused disconnect..
@@Big_boom90 a fused disconnect is for safely disconnecting power to a piece of equipment and protecting from over current. However will do little to nothing for surge protection. Fuses just don’t blow that quickly. The perfect install would be the correct size breaker in the main panel which that panel should have a surge protector on it too. Then a properly sized fused disconnect with another surge protector because when you layer surge protectors they work more effectively. It’s just like putting up barricades for cars the more you have the more energy you can dissipate. And finally if it’s a three phase piece of equipment a phase monitor wired to a normally open contactor is highly recommended to keep from having the equipment “single phase”. Question anyone??
A must have for any outdoor inverter condensing unit.
Daikin activities
@@brayancrespo1517what?
That is how a surge protector gets install in the AC disconnect. I’m talking to all the HVAC people that get this wrong 99.999% of time
You know what I'm going to keep doubling up on the lugs how I was taught.
@@DRmechanical Well, that is is wrong. Lugs are only design to take one wire.
It's like looking back in time, Seeing equipment from 50 years ago still being used.
Yep I still roll the older classic vehicles, less mechanical problems and no computer trackers😶🌫️
@@gods959 maybe but Mains electrical equipment that half a century obsolete is scary.
@@dogwalker666 What makes it so obsolete? can you refer a newer setup.
@@ronwest7930 lack of buss bar protection and MCB 's that are 3 generations obsolete, Modern distribution boards are way more advanced. Any that old would be scrapped.
Thankyou!
I’ve seen it done different- Wrong
appreciate your videos- never stop learning
Omg, everything nice and dandy, and the freakin wire nut.... its not 70's anymore man.
What do you want him to use?
I certainly wish there was another way but the only two options are a splice connector or wire nut. This is also stranded wire. I would love to double lug but that will not pass code so until the disconnect manufacturers step up and provide more lugs, this is where we are stuck at. I hear ya!!
Guys, WAGO connectors, just type in favorite uncle.
Yes, wire nuts or WAGO's, that is what I was holding in my other hand during the video. We are stuck at this point with using wire nuts or WAGO's, and to make it worse, its stranded wire.
If you can’t install a wire nut properly. Then definitely don’t use them. They work great if you know what you’re doing. Glad my old 1995 RUUD central air still works great. Reliable. Last Saturday 122 degrees outside. 75 in house. Temp probe in register 50 degrees. AC not even working hard. Wouldn’t trade for a new system that needs so much protection. Too much pee poor electronics in everything now days.
I started installing these because it gave us a better warranty. I can charge more and it's only like a 5-minute Job. Admittedly, I will just put the wires in the same place in that lug connection for the load. We're starting to get away from wire nuts over here. We like those new wire connectors they got. I forgot what they call em.
Direct to the lugs is a MUCH better SPD installation than using wire nuts.
Surges are high-frequency events, thus sharp bends create high impedance, and a wire nut is a 180 deg, very sharp bend.
@@craighorner7801 I figured it should work relatively close to the same. It's just a lot easier than cutting and wire nutting. Not to mention I've seen plenty of wire nuts fail.
So on any new inverter type hvac system, the circuit boards are susceptible to damage from undervoltage, overvoltage, grid problems, lightening strikes, and other electrical issues. A surge protector can help protect from power problems due to nearby lightning strikes which are very common. They work by shorting the very high voltage to ground temporarily. These are just connected to the circuit. Overvoltage and undervoltage protection devices are different as they are connected in series and will cut power off. These are also typically equipped with surge protection. The only issue is if they cut power off to a running inverter system too much, it is possible to damage the system so care must be taken to set the undervoltage and overvoltage set points correctly for your average voltage in the area installed. I have another video on installing overvoltage and undervoltage protection linked in the description section of the video. Also make sure to read our mini split articles and check out our new book "Inverter mini split operation and service procedures available at www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech or at our website at www.acservicetech.com/store
Surge protection is not the same thing as lightning protection. A surge protector will help a bit but it’s not what there designed to do
Is Not doubling it on the ground lug only to make sure it has full contact?
@@jonlehman2671that's not what he is saying, he literally said in the comment it helps with overvoltage from near by lighting strikes. Obviously its not going to help with lighting strikes that hit the house that is what lighting protection is for.
@@drewdubois6171 yes it is but also lugs are only rated for a certain amount of wires because they can become loose if there are multiple wires doubled up. Granted ive seen lugs that arn't rated for that and get doubled up anyway and last decades but its not code and defenintly not best practice. There are lugs that are rated to be doubled up but if it's not rated for it or you don't know if it's rated for than ya it's best to only use one wire per lug.
If the whole panel has a surge protector, would you want this one too?
They Sycom ones that show Holmes on homes were installing were recalled for catching homes on fire, You gotta look up recalls on everything I guess..
This channel would be so much more popular if hvac pay Madd it worth getting into the trade
you should pay a school to help teach you to make sense in a sentence
As an electrician since 1981, I do not recommend wire nuts on stranded wire.
They were never designed for stranded wires.
I would love to have another solution but really with this type of disconnect, its splice connectors or wire nuts. Even crimp connectors won't due because there are three wires. We can't double lug either in the existing terminals. We need a new design to our disconnect boxes that will facilitate surge protection. If you have any connection ideas, please feel free to share. We try to be a community that listens and thinks what could be best, thanks!
set screw wire connector
Thanks alot 💡
Thanks-great informative video.
Installed a couple of the icm ones before pretty useful
Really? On the Load Side?
I always wired to the Line Side based on Install instructions included in the surge protector box.
Yeap
Ones I seen say on the load side
same ive installed 50+ always on the line side
We install this on the load side because of the instructions on this brand, its going to do the same thing after the disconnect is in, and state licensed HVAC contractors typically are not supposed to work on the line side of the outdoor disconnect per NEC code, thanks!
My exact thoughts
Surge protector we use goes on the line side
READ line 5 under the install data sheet for HVACS. www.diteksurgeprotection.com/wp-content/uploads/DTK-120_240CM-Plus-191130-R9.pdf
I built my own. Ever body knows what they are cheap to build..
The surge protectors I install say to hook to the line power🤔
It depends on the brand but licensed HVACR contractors in most states are only permitted by code to work on the load side. It will do the same thing if the disconnect is in so either side won't change funtionality.
That ground is in illegal that is not an attachment point… that secures the ground bar to the box…
I love this
Brilliant!
Could use one of those!😮
Can I send you a photo of my heat pump set up where I would like to put a surge protector like you have in this video? Mine is wired differently and I’m questioning the installer. Thanks.
That reminds me- I doubled lugged mine. Been meaning to change that.
Did you change it ?
good
When using wire nuts, aren't you supposed to twist the copper together, snip it, and THEN put on the wire nut?
That’s the best practice especially if your new to the game but if done correctly a wire but will twist the wires as you tighten the wire nut.
Maybe it's just me but I really prefer double lugging. One less point of failure
100 percent
I do get it and I wish the disconnect manufacturers would supply a better design!
Yeah, I know sparkys talk down on double lugging, but the strand wire used on those big solid wires really allows it to conform around that solid wire when tightening down. I yank on those wires pretty hard after every install and they never budge. 😅
Sparky here, dont double lugs unless UL listed too. Against electrical code to do so.
Two wires in one lug is a NEC code violation, you must pigtail
SPDs do NOT protect against lightning stikes. SPDs are only designed to protect against one thing and one thing only: transient voltages. A transient voltage is a voltage spike or sag that occures when lines are *transitioning* (that's why theyre called *transient*) between connected and disconnected (be it service lines, or even your neighbor turning on their electric oven). If you want lightning protection, that's an entirely separate kind of protection. Surge protection is still vital in these inverted systems (and should be installed on newer furnaces, the blower motors are inverted too and just as expensive as inverter boards), we just don't need techs out there promising the world with SPDs and making angry customers when the manufacturer won't honor a warranty claim for protection that they never promised.
Nice.
The video shows the surge protector connected to the wires on the load side. Does it matter if you connected to the line or the load wires?
Since the device is in parallel, and since that circuit is almost always on, is it fair to say this will partially protect the entire house?
Those are Ok, but phase monitors like the ICM 493 are better and not a one time use device. Use these on any inverter system.
About off the shelve parts:
In the transponders of aircrafts is a pressure senor to measure the altitude. That sensor costs ~400€. You can get the exact same sensor from the same production line for 4€ at an electronic parts shop. The difference: one is certified and has veen zested and calibrated extensivly the other not. Usion standard consumer parts in an application where fire an or failure of the part is extremly dangerous is an absolute no go.
Why in parallel!? How could it protect anything without being in line?? It's going to reduce the surge of the entire grid??
Its going to temporarily short to ground at that location to protect anything downstream of the device. Its only going to help and is self sacrificing and won't continue to work after that. The indicator light shows it will still work to help protect the device, thanks!
Just do a plug on EATON CH surge protector in the panel inside. Fast and you have plenty of breaker slots
Those plug ons are very weak
@clash2survive813 on a homeline maybe
I don't think it matters if it's parnell on the load or line, once the disconnect it installed it does the same job
This is true. We just install these on the load side because of the instructions on this brand, its going to do the same thing after the disconnect is in, and state licensed HVAC contractors typically are not supposed to work on the line side of the outdoor disconnect per NEC code, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel this is actually a good point I overlooked.
No no no thats not how you do it 😡 - every electrician comment section
Good video. I need to install one on my system
Is the surge protector's include a capacitor
Supposed to be on line and the ground wire is supposed to be as short as possible..
Short as possible really for all wires but also one that gets forgotten a lot is you want your leads as straight as possible to. Less resistance and interference the better.
Actually not true per spec of the designer. All wires to be on the load side
@@aihf3063 what do you mean?
Why do some videos say install the wires into the line side and this is saying install in the load side? Thanks in advance
Always always twist your wires with lineman pliers before you apply the wire nut to them..... Always.....
Wire nuts, how quaint. 😄
Believe me, I wish there were some other way besides those or splice connectors! I wish the disconnect manufacturers would come aboard and may disconnects with more lugs. I would love to just double lug but that is against code!
@@acservicetechchannel hey man the work is clean. Some really cool stuff from wago out there too bad it can't be used in some places.
Yes in the vid, I know its fast forwarded but I was holding a WAGO in one hand and a Wire Nut in the other to show, technically those are the only two options which kind of stinks since its stranded wires. Thanks brother!
Nothing wrong with wire nuts on stranded to solid.
Would fuses accomplish the same thing or is the surge protector more sensitive?
That's an awefully clean looking disconnect to be on a house. I've never seen one that didn't have 2 extra feet of every wire squished into it
Ha ha, yeah, true!
What about the 24v thermostat wires?
It should send an alert to someone who can arrange to replace it after it blows. Without that, it's only good for the first surge, unless you go check it every week.
I Alway's like doing this but some folks don't think its needed 🤦🤷
We don't want to come back because of a bad board, thats for sure!!
You better put in a 4 X 4 metal box when these things blow they will catch a house on fire
Multimeter isn't certified to do a dead measurement. You need a voltage tester meant for it
@yamaszlofmcdurkin yes, you can measure voltage with it. But it's not certified to use as a prove dead device.
@yamaszlofmcdurkin Why can’t I use a Multimeter or non-contact voltage detector to prove dead?
Firstly, the use of Multimeters or non-contact voltage detectors is advised against in the HSE guidance and the use of these has resulted in accidents in the past.
The reason why a Multimeter is not suitable is that it is all too easy to select the wrong range. In addition, the Multimeter relies on battery power to function, thus there is a great margin for error in making a false “dead” reading on a live circuit.
The best way to test for voltage is to lick your fingers and place them on both line leads. Certified by god
@@pablonavarro278 we have a code book from the 70s or 80s (I’ll have to check the exact year) but it says to test voltage with you thumb and forefinger. So yeah your right
@@justme5384 well that’s why one of the most important things a new tech learns is how to properly use his tools and the potential dangers associated with each practice.
They make these that install on the compressor too
what kind of protector is that? usually the protector is in series, so the load get to the protector first.
This temporarily shorts the surge to ground and does not act as a switch like undervoltage/overvoltage protection which costs a lot more and could possible switch off the power too much while the compressor is running, thanks!
Preference I suppose, but I'm not a fan of the wire nuts on high voltage, as I see too many loose connections causing melted connections. Generally, I use male spade connectors and place on the lug behind the wire.
Have you seen how large a Lightning strike is??? Surge protection is not Lightning protection. You’re little circuit board and plastic isn’t going to protect against lightning. It’s a “surge protector”
I agree, I didn't mean any direct strike but just if there were one that affected the grid or power lines nearby which affected the electrical power here.
How about show a simple diagram instead of all the wiring exercises
put on line side as well
Isn't that style aluminum lug rated for more than one conductor??
Craig, do you recommend surge protection on a condenser that is PSC driven?
It is really meant to protect inverter or other sensitive circuit boards compared to just a contactor and compressor that are just windings.
@@acservicetechchannel you sir know your shit!
I think we are all just trying to be better, thanks!!
Hi. Do you guys in America test external loop impedance and or any perspective short circuit currents at your origin of supply? Only ever seen tests for polarity on videos? Or tests for disconnection times with your GFC(?) devices? We do over in the UK. Be great to hear from you.
Explain a little bit more please.
That panel Cutler Hammer?
Craig, in your opinion is the DTK 120 good enough for an inverter heat pump compared to KoolGuard or ICM493??
No but it's cheaper and easier
For a more in depth explanation, check this video out: ua-cam.com/video/yJziZssS4FM/v-deo.html
Why didn’t you put a fused disconnect box on in stead of adding wires?
If I were to install one just like this, would it only protect the HVAC line or would it protect the whole house too? I’ve been trying to protect my home for a while but my panel is full and am not really looking to upgrade just yet.
You would probably want a whole house surge protector which would be installed at your panel. There are ones that fit outside of your panel.
Can you show for 120 furnace
Why isn't there surge protection on it already? Most have fuses.
Lighting strikes? Surge protectors don’t protect your home electrical service from lighting strikes unless if there is a lighting close by that might hit a transformer or something. That’s why you have grounding electrodes for that actual protect your home from lightings
These are not mean't for direct lightning strike hits but one nearby can cause a surge in the electrical grid that will affect these units circuit boards!
Will this protect 30amp ac?
These offer enhanced protection, unplugging your equipment works 100 times better 😂.
Face the wire nuts up to keep water out. Pro tip...
If water is in that box you’ve got bigger problems
You can't have a splice in that box by code. You would have to run the protection in a junction then into the box
Why didn't you put it in the main panel?
HVACR contractors cannot go in the main panel like licensed electricians, but can only work on the load side of the outdoor disconnect, thanks!
Any Idea Where I can get this from Nigeria
On a recalled box
Looks like you should read the instructions .. the ground wire need to be the shortest wire coming from the surge protector..
What happens if the surge detector fails ?
Lever wire nug would have been better. Also, you didn't follow manufacturer guidelines for the wire nut. The wires should be twisted several times.
is it allowed to install in canada?
If i was an American electrician i would just move to the uk for a much better time 😂
Uuuh. So does it matter that he put the on/off switch back in, upside down?
What are your thoughts on surge protectors catching fire? Would you recommend installing them on the HVAC unit instead?
Right? I've heard that too that the AG3000s caused fires
They are real people if you watch it again the movement on the right when the camera man going out the door.
Sorry to say but wrong wire nuts to the wire size.....nomas digo
why not a line conditioner?
Yuk US surge protection looks horrendous ! Why can’t you Atleast make it look nice like we do over here across the pond! And none of those horrendous wire nuts needed
It all comes down to meeting our NEC code while also using existing disconnect boxes. I really wish there were more lugs and then certainly there would be no wire nuts or splice connectors! That would be best!
What size AC is that?? 1/4 ton? LoL . Those wires look like 15amp max. Or 16guage.
Smallest size 1.5 ton central air units usually only need 14 awg at 15 amps. Check nameplate for minimum circuit ampacity. Wire has to be able to handle that number
Couldn't you just pop in a surge protection breaker and protect the entire electrical panel?
That's not how you twist a wire nut, especially when bonding solid to stranded wires.
Black for a power/live wire, WTF who thought that through?
A surge protector isn't doing anything for a lightning strike that's close!
Use Wago's in the Future damn american wire nuts.
Electronic controls? We don't need no electronic controls!
Just go back to MECHANICAL controls and no more problems.
A wirenut is a type of splicing connector. Just an FYI. Good job bud.
That is so ,not they way to properly install it, electric vibrates and can come lose. Fail
How can I wire in 115 V minisplit ac disconnect
it says on the instructions not to cut the wires .Stop showing the wrong way
READ LINE 5 under HVAC Disconnect Install.....www.diteksurgeprotection.com/wp-content/uploads/DTK-120_240CM-Plus-191130-R9.pdf
A 240 VAC circuit is a series circuit, not a parallel circuit.
Too fast, you can’t see the wiring properly, slow down
These of limited
Great 😂1300 cost