Beautiful Raku Glaze Recipe
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- benshane.com/
/ benshane
/ tinkerandthink
Glazing pottery can be daunting, and for good reason--it's chemistry, and the deeper you get into glazing, the more complex it becomes. But don't let that stop you from experimenting with making your own glazes! It can actually be very simple, easy, and affordable to mix your own glazes. In this video, I show you several variations on a super easy raku glaze--it's a Paul Soldner recipe.
Clear/Transparent Raku glaze:
Gerstley Borate 80
Custer Feldspar 20
Gerstley Borate 1
EPK (Kaolin) 1
To which you can add:
*2.5-5 parts Copper Carbonate [turquoise in oxidation; opalescent/copper penny when heavily reduced in pine needles (the material used for reduction does matter, so experiment!); red/pink when reduced lightly in kiln]
*5 parts Manganese Dioxide [brown to black; the darkness of the brown varies with thickness of glaze application]
And, though I don't mention it in this video, some other common colorants and their resulting colors are:
-Tin Oxide [White] (5 parts)
-Cobalt Carbonate [Blue] (0.5 parts; Cobalt is a very strong colorant)
-and so many more...
Mixing different colorants into the same glaze produces yet more variety. You can look up all sorts of glaze recipes on glazy.org. I recommend using recipes as a starting point, as a sort of proof of concept, and then tweaking things to see what happens. It's a great way to learn from a hands-on approach, and you never know what kind of beauty will result from some happy accident. Making your own glazes allows you to find an aesthetic that really speaks to you personally.
Considering it's at least a thousand dollars for a medium sized professional kiln, it's actually really quite impressive you've managed to make your raku style glazes and get them to work from a homemade gas kiln.
thanks! I was excited to learn it's possible, and surprised it turned out to be as easy as it is!
Those thousand dollar kilns are a rip off too. At least they are when you want a part for one. I just tried to buy some gas parts from GreatKilns/Olympic for a burner. They wanted $60 each for the small gas connector that I found for $20 and pretty sure if I keep looking I'll find them cheaper. They told me they cost so much because they were special made by a local machine shop (lie). LOL I found them 200 miles from them for $39. Even more surprising is I found them in a well known burner; I can buy that whole burner kit for $51.
I use microwave kiln to fire everything it works pretty good you should look into it
The opalescent and copper colors are truly stunning. I have an old ceramic kiln and it would be fun to try to make a raku kiln out of that and the weed torch. Thanks for your straight forward instructions without any extra useless babble.
4:40 OMG! that copper glaze is just amazing! WOW it's beautiful! if you made the copper carbonate thicker, would it result is LESS crackle?
Absolutely beautiful!
you remind me of ....me, when i was younger. I am now 72 and have done raku professionally for 40+ years. I still get a kick out of it. Dale Ferguson
It's always fun. Any chance you're the Dale Ferguson of Laguna Clay?
At 5:28... I don't understand the reduce and cover and not cover do you have a video?
Thank you
Q; Is there any way to figure out how to force just iridescent blue/green/copper?
Note I'd like do this with handmade clay beads.
If you have links/videos to learn this for beads & making the colors I'm looking for, this would be most appreciative.
Thank you again - very nice
Hello, I just asked myself if it would work to just grind glass bottles into powder and use that to make glaze?
very nice! woof!
I did a Raku firing with this glaze yesterday. The out side of the bowl turned out very nice, the inside stayed rather glassy green with some copper flash where the flames came over I think. It's nice but I'm wondering if the glassy green is a sign the firing temperature wasn't hot enough, any thoughts?
Sounds like it didn't get reduced strongly enough. How did you do the reduction?
@@tinkerandthink I had it in a small trash can with sequoia needles in the bottom, it flamed up good and we let it burn a minute before putting the lid on......the guy doing the firing wasn't using a pyrometer, just watching the glaze.
Yeah, sounds like the bottom, which was touching the needles, got more heavily reduced. The inside got much lighter reduction, just from the smoke from the needles below. Copper will be green/blue with light reduction/oxidation.
@@tinkerandthink ok, so what should I have done different to get more reduction on the inside?
Pile some more pine needles on top of the bowl after placing it in the can. The direct contact will make it reduce more heavily
Oooo these are fantastic, love it.
I was wondering, can you put a layer of glaze over an existing layer of glaze? That would allow the texture of the crackle glaze, while still being able to be entirely food safe.
Definitely. I've been meaning to re-fire some pieces to see if I can get a smooth glaze on the inside surface to hold water.
Learning about mudfossils would up your pottery game, knowledge & understanding of the true geology hidden in front of our eyes.
Hello from Chile, very nice work, i dont have that borate but i have gillespie borate, i will try it.
They look amazing!
Did anyone tell you that you could play the next Superman? :)) You look like a Superman, just saying .. haha! :D
Absolutely wonderful YT channel. High production values so it’s watchable but more importantly the communication of the techniques is great and the notes with videos are fantastic. I hope you consider producing a simply produced ‘beginner firing and glaze recipes’ style of book. So much of what is available teaches perfection of technique whereas you really do teach the art. Cannot thank you enough.
…and when will your online store open so we can purchase some of your pottery????
Hopefully this year!
Well you better get busy because I think you’ll have a line of customers. I’ll be the one in front.
I love your presentation. Thank you so much. I'm new at making my own glazes and don't understand what actual quantity ( a part ) represents. You have 80% + 20% +100% ben then you a "part" what is the quantity of a part? Thank you in advance. Matthew
A "part" is whatever measurement you use. Grams, kilograms, ounces, pounds, etc.
Typically, a base recipe adds up to 100%, and then there are additions of colorants on top of that. This simplifies the math.
You have a great presentation style and useful interesting information. More videos please.
loving this ceramics series, please keep it going :)
Many more to come 😊
Oh hellz yea brüder
When you say parts like 5 parts copper carb are you talking 5% in weight in grams
Yeah, just percent
Really great stuff. I love the interior of that bowl that looks like copper foil.
Beautiful colours copper andturquoise from outside inside amazing work.
What temperature did you have and how long did you hold the temp? Great video, thanks.
I just fired it by eye. When the glaze looks melty, it's ready.
Stunning! But wish you had shown the whole process of firing and redux.
I love the unprocessed clay pieces. This is my first time finding your channel.
Thanks! I'm still trying to find a glaze/surface finish that I think works with the unprocessed clay texture. Glad to hear you're liking some of the pieces!
Is this food safe?
For various reasons, no, unfortunately.
Por favor pone el subtitulado en español por favor así puedo aprender y poder hacerlo me encanta lo que haces los colores del esmalte glaze como decís vos
Much thanks..very helpful
Maravilloso, hermoso , felicitaciones ❤️❤️
Amo el Raku ❤️
One important thing! You never said the firing temperature of this glaze neither did you mentioned the type of kiln You used either for bisc or for ra-ku firing. And that's one of the most important factors in the process!
I've got videos on all that! I made my own kiln, and fired it until I could see the glaze melting (no cones or pyrometer).
I understand the terms "colorants / clear base" but i so don't relate x.x i would cover my piece in pure cobalt or iron or copper carbon.. feldspar can make color with combined with the right material. The line is soo much more blurry than common potter speach would suggest
Nice video tho! I like the "treat the glaze in different ways"
Beautiful Art your creating!
Do the colors change over time?
Amazing videos! Definitely the best information I could find on this topic 👌
Question: can you actually use raku as dinnerware? Is the glaze food safe?
Thanks a lot :)
Depends on the glaze, but yes you can. Copper tends to leach, no matter how it is fired. But the base glaze is safe, I believe.
Thank you very much!
How do you bisque fire the pieces before the glaze firing/reduction process?
I talk about that here: m.ua-cam.com/video/XTh86PrXayM/v-deo.html
What temp do you fire to? And do you hold or anything like that? Thanks!
I didn't use a pyrometer or cone pack, so I don't know the exact temp. I just watched until the glaze looked melted, waited a couple minutes (held at that temp, basically), and then pulled pieces. I talk about firing pieces with raku glaze here: m.ua-cam.com/video/XTh86PrXayM/v-deo.html
creating beauty!
Hermoso!!
How do you apply your glaze and how many layers? Super excited to try this out in a couple days!
I talk about in some videos. It depends on the effect you want. Different pieces have different applications, even the ones in this vid
These are beautiful!
Great videos !
By "reduced" you mean how much pine straw you covered the pottery in, right?
"Reducing" pottery literally refers to reducing the amount of oxygen it receives. Anytime you deprive it of air, whether through a secondary reduction like I do here when I cover it in pine needles (anything combustible works), or in a gas or wood kiln where you cut off the air supply but keep feeding the kiln fuel.
@@tinkerandthink hi... you put pine staw in the bottom which touch the outside of the bowl but you didn't put anything inside of the bowl but cover the whole bowl with a bucket so no oxygen will go in? Is the picture that I am imaging right?
@@lindalee945 it turns out that combustibles can block the surface of a piece from receiving oxygen from air entering the fire chamber. A wonderful side affect would be pine needle shapes appearing in various colors ( depending on the glaze). These nuances have crept me firing my various hand built raku and pit kilns yearly for 50 years. There is never a dull moment, and never a complete grasp of the results of the process. Always a journey! I have had great luck with newspapers, various sawdust sources including pet bedding and cheap metal bowls for reduction chambers.😊
Amazing job, congrats , i have a question propably because of my poor english , you add Gerstley Borate 80, Custer Feldspar 20 and then + Gerstley Borate 1 (Part)
+ EPK (Kaolin) 1 (Part)... i cant understand that step how much is a Part, Thank you in advance for your time
Glaze recipes are all about proportions. If you add 80g Gerstley Borate and 20g Feldspar, then you add 1g extra GB and 1g EPK. But you can make as much as you want, with those percentages.
@@tinkerandthink Thank you, now i get it
@@tinkerandthink Why not just say 81% Gerstley Borate? Why 80% + 1%?
The math is easier. The main recipe adds up to 100. If it's 81 GB and 20 Custer, now it's no longer adding to 100%. It helps with scaling and makes glaze recipes written with a universal formula
@@tinkerandthink But in reality, at the end of the day, you are adding 81% gerstley borate in this recipe, right? Just checking to be sure. Meaning if I were measuring ingredients in a jar ready for glaze mixing, I'd measure 81% gersley borate - not 80%, and then 1% separately.
I am familiar with color and such being added outside of the 100% formula, but I wasn't aware of the main ingredient, gerstley borate, being added on top of the 100%.
Thanks for your response.
Pretty cool, thanks.