My wife and I have been in St George this week and we stopped by MORR a couple days ago. It was really cool to see everything and all the folks we talked with were super nice. I would have loved to pet the doggos while we were there, but they were shooting video at the time so it wasn't possible. We did see Matt and Peanut come out of the shop while we were there. Spoke with Jake for a few minutes and he's just as genuinely nice as he appears in the videos. I was actually surprised at how small the shop area was, as it looks really big on video. For me it was the highlight of the trip! Thanks MORR!!!!
Well it would pretty easy to make a universal T-Bar that would fit into the wrecker's receiver and be positioned to let the front tires or tire bump up against the T-bar which could also have bumpers on it to bounce against the tires or tire...
I miss the old days of being able to stop by during business hours and just chat with Matt and the team. I have pictures of me and my girlfriend checking out the Morrvair build, petting Max, and touring the shop. We were on a road trip from Idaho to Yuma, AZ and I was an early fan of his videos, so I just stopped by. Everyone was super nice and cool. Unfortunately, because of the incredible increase in popularity, they have had to clamp down on tourists and accessibility. I totally understand and get why things have changed. Last time I stopped by on my yearly road trip, I didn't make it past the little office, didn't see anyone, and was just offered to buy merch. Sad, but it is what it is.
Jefe thank you for your service.✝✌ From a retired76 year-old us army E -9 First. Sergeant From The Good Old U.S.of A Combat vet of two warswiththe25thDiv in Vietnam & 24th.Div in Iraq to include being seriously wounded in both combats! good luck on your new channel and I love this show
I have a brown and white boarder collie . He has to go with me in what ever I drive , Head out the window and enjoying the view . The people I got him from called him Charlie and my last name is Brown= Charlie Brown LOL
Well it would pretty easy to make a universal T-Bar that would fit into the wrecker's receiver and be positioned to let the front tires or tire bump up against the T-bar which could also have bumpers on it to bounce against the tires or tire...
Matt. When you need to block/isolate one brake, use this trick. Undo a line at the nearest undamaged spot. Install a little disk made out of a soda (beer) can. Reinstall that line, trapping the disk in place, thus blocking off that wheel's brake. I've successfully used this trick numerous times to temporarily block off a brake while causing no damage. Great channel! Vettepilot
Well it would pretty easy to make a universal T-Bar that would fit into the wrecker's receiver and be positioned to let the front tires or tire bump up against the T-bar which could also have bumpers on it to bounce against the tires or tire...
A pair of vice grips or a nail to block it off works wonders.Also,bigger hydraulic hoses can be blocked off with dimes or nickles.Old underground mining tricks.
The scenery, the comradery between the team, the family environment, the dogs and a cup of coffee to start my day...I personally think of your channel as Matt's Off Road Mental Recovery. Thank you.
Jefe thanks for serving our country! Good luck with your new youtube channel. Morrvair and big wrecker to the rescue. Matt's right the spud truck needs to be working for these broken sxs! Good video!
The Morr crew is at it again, saving those in need. You all do a fantastic job getting them out! Always a good time watching everyone having fun and getting people out of tight spots at the same time!!
The Norwegian armed forces uses modified under reach wheel lift mounted on a modified square tube tow hitch, on the G-Wagens and Isuzus, to salvage their Polaris vehicles. Much the same terrain as you guys have, but more low brushes and less sand. The Danish armed forces use the same thing. There are clamping devices on them that can be adjusted to any width and height and that clampes on to wheels, A-arms or drive shafts. A relatively big canvas air bag sometimes cushions the movements between the vehicles. Maybe an idea? Thanks for sharing! Best regards from Norway.
He seems to be absolutely opposed to a wheel lift for some reason. I live nearby and there is no regional reason for this that I am aware of, just Matt having a strong opinion. I agree with you though.
I can see of a reason not to use SMC Car Towing A-Frame 2.6Ton Recovery Dolly Trailer together with Matt’s boom is the danger of the vehicle being tow excessive high approach angle. On certain downhill terrain, the vehicle being tow will “ride” on top of A-Frame dolly if the tow vehicle make sudden stop (that’s why always someone in tow modulate the brake)
The wheel lifts aren’t gonna work for off road recoveries. Way too many extremes in the environment. Not only that he don’t get paid for most of these recoveries so I’m sure he don’t want to invest a lot of money
You asked about a bar for towing SXS's. It never occurred to me you needed one until this one with no brakes, but here's a suggestion you could put together in an afternoon ... What if you fabbed up some type of y-shaped tow bar that could be clamped to the lower a-arms of the SXS? I think the arms of the "Y" would have to be able to swing in and out so you could use it on all trackwidths as you try to find a good spot on the A-arm that would clear the pretty plastic body parts. You'd also need some kind of clamping/strapping system that could wrap around the whole a-arms even if they had skid plates. The "tail" of the "Y" could have a steel loop in it to connect to your pintle hitch and let you turn and go through any angle without binding. I'm thinking somewhere along the arms there would need to be connection points for your winches to lift the "Y" adapter and, with it, the end of the SXS off the ground for towing. Seems like you'd want those winch points to be as close to the SXS as possible. Did I explain it well enough? I can send a picture of a good sketch if my explanation is a mess. I really think it'd work but you have WAY more experience than me. My wife and I love this channel so much! Thanks for all the content including the shop content channel! It is the epitome of edutainment!
Well it would pretty easy to make a universal T-Bar that would fit into the wrecker's receiver and be positioned to let the front tires or tire bump up against the T-bar which could also have bumpers on it to bounce against the tires or tire...
That's what I was thinking. Not sure if they just omitted them looking for a tool they didn't have on hand, but I doubt that they'd just be sending it without thinking through the brakes even if they didn't show it.
Thanks for another great vid! I met all of you at Sand Hollow at the first games. I noticed Jefe's guard plates on his truck. I introduced myself, a retired First Sergeant, and we chatted a bit and Jefe said he'd be retiring soon. Thank you for your service and your courtesy offered when we met! Take care and catch ya on the next vid!
Hey Matt, this idea wouldn't help with the nose bumping your wrecker... But have you ever thought of using what is called a "spreader bar" between your two lifting ropes / lines. This would create more of a box shape and widen out where your lifting lines pass by the hood/fenders etc. Cranes use them for large loads & marinas use the to lift boats. You wouldn't need anything that heavy ( I-Beam), you could use a 1.5 inch pipe and maybe make it adjustable for common widths of vehicles you tow. You probably have already thought of this & figured out some reason why it wouldn't work... I would love to hear about that... Good luck! 😊
i was scanning the comments and did not watch the video yet and for a moment thought Peanut had died! I was about to get misty lol. No Peanut, no Ed I might unsub.
You need to manufacture a universal temporary bumper attachment that has the ability to adjust and attach to multiple styles of razors when they need to be towed. There are some newer vehicles that I think could also be modified and turned into a similar vehicle to the Morvair including the following: Saturn Wagon, Ford Taurus Wagon, Subaru Outback, Dodge Magnum Wagon, and any other crossover type wagon vehicles. I only bring this up because there are more of those donor vehicles available than there are the older Corvair Wagons. The Morvair is one of the coolest vehicles I have ever seen.
Okay I was one of those who commented, year or so ago about a stiff link from the pintle hitch. If you are pulling from the back there is normally a receiver hitch that you could attach to but most are damaged at the front. So I have an idea how this might work. You could try putting a piece in the receiver hitch on the SXS that would 90 down and extend an attachment point below the bottom. Then run an adjustable length tube (driveline from something?) from that point to the pintle on the wrecker. Seems easy enough to weld up and try.
hey Matt Thanks for sharing your adventures. I've been thinking of your dilemma towing those side by sides and came up with a pretty simple idea you might like. I was thinking of a pipe, about 3" diameter, maybe 4 or 5 feet long with a sort tee on one and with rings welded on each end. The single ring would attach to your hitch at the center of the rear bumper on your tow truck and extend underneath the vehicle you're towing and then attach straps from the suspension back to the two rings on either side of the bar, but not tight, just tight enough to keep the towed vehicle from hitting your tow truck. I was also thinking you could make the bar that goes underneath into a simple shock absorber by with a capped tube inside the main tube with a strong spring inside and also two smaller springs on the outside from the two tees down to the outer tube to keep the unit together. Just a thought. Thanks again, Kevin
Adding a firm connection between the wrecker and towed vehicle. Consider building a Y shaped device. The (Y) pieces should pivot at the y to make wider or narrower and go to the tie rod area next to the wheel. Then attach ratchet straps to go around the tie rod area to affix that to the y. Next the long portion of the y could have two pieces, one inside the other so one is inside the other and holes holes through each so the long portion of the y can be made longer or shorter to fit the desired tow length. A simple ball hitch on the end will finish the job. Watching your great content is a joy. Thanks
Maybe some form of an adjustable length cross bar that sticks out that is lowered and raised by the cable from the boom. It ratchet straps to the lower arms (or what's left there of the suspension arms) of a side by side or wheels of a vehicle. When not in use, it folds into the bed of the wrecker so as to affect departure angles. Otherwise if you want another option to pull side-by-sides with the wrecker, besides the rollback if its busy or broken down, then why not just make a 2 wheel vehicle dolley just for side-by-sides just so there is one set of wheels under the disabled portion of the side-by-side? They are usually only damaged on either the front or back but rarely both.
3:23 for the manufactures to put any type of accessory on the front like a bumper or tow hook, will concede that all they’re selling, are broken ball joints, and axles on a rolling chassis.
The way you design the tow bar; Create a T bar with a telescoping length using unistrut, determine a desired minimum and maximum length. On one end of the center tow bar affix a tow ring that will attach to the wrecker. On the other end affix a cross bar. On that cross bar make two adjustable blocks that can adjust from side to side. Make the slide back and forth and pin in place, use unistrut here too. (Unistrut is the stuff they put stop signs on, it has 3/8” holes spaced 1”apart on all 4 sides.) These blocks should be maybe 6” tall, with a cushioned cradle that can pivot. When attaching to a towed vehicle, the top of the “T” attaches to the towed vehicle, adjust the blocks and affix them in place and strap the vehicle to that block, the bottom end of the “T” that has the pintle ring drops into the pintle, done. You use the hoist to keep or adjust the height of the towed vehicle, the backwards “T” tow bar (think of how you flat tow a VW) keeps your towed vehicle at a fixed distance.
Matt, you need to check out an old "Cradle Snatcher" wheel lift tow unit. It had an overhead hydraulic boom - the "frame of which went up at about a 60 degree angle for three feet, and then leveled off so it was parallel to the ground for about 5 feet. The boom could go up and down using one ram and in and using another. A heavy steel "wing" hung from the end of the boom. Two seta of "straps" hung from either end of the wing. The straps attached to two "trays". The trays were hung on the back of the unit while in transit (fully secured). You would take off each tray and slide one under the back of the tires and the other in the front of the tires - they weren't that heavy. The trays were secured to each other by a heavy chain. The straps from the wings attached to the front and back of the trays. When you lifted the boom everything would tighten up, the car would be tightly held by its tires sitting in the trays. The end result, is a fully secured car "floating" in the air - looking just like your side-by-sides. The way the trays were connected to the vehicle was slick (realize that the way the wing attached to the boom allowed it to turn as the car "followed" the tow truck). On the middle of the front tray, a circular piece of heavy duty steel was welded (it had a "tab" welded on to either side of the circle). Securely mounted to the back of the tow truck was a large "receiver" made of heavy duty steel. The implementation of the connections, kind of resembled how a ball hitch is slipped into its receiver. The difference with the Cradle Snatcher is that its "receiver" was only three sided, the top was open. A large, heavy 2"x4" steel "tow bar" about 3 feet long with the end having a heavy duty "ring" welded to it. The ring had two slots cut into its inside circumference, allowing it to be placed over the tabs on the front tray, you'd extend the boom out a little, swing the tow bar around to slide into the receiver which would then be locked using by a heavy duty pin much like the old ones used on the tow bar of an old fashioned sling. When the ring was attached to the circle, the tabs would ensure that the connection couldn't be separated while towing. Between the wing, the trays, and the tow bar the towed vehicle was safely secured and would "track" perfectly" behind the tow truck. Fun fact, to tow a car from the middle of a bunch of cars closely parked along a sidewalk was super easy with the Cradle Snatcher. You just had to approach the desired vehicle at a ninety degree angle - line up the boom with the center of the front or rear tire, and stop about three feet away from the target tire. You'd place the trays under either tire as normal, swing the wing out at a 90 degree angle, attach the wing straps to the trays and lift the car. You could then easily tow the car out of its space with no damage. You just needed to attach the tow bar and you'd be on your way. The whole operation took about 5 minutes, The End 😄
Wasting time and energy..... Matt knows every kind of tow attachment there is but just hates the idea of any kind of tow sling, wheel lift thingy. Even tho you're just writing on air, I write long comments too, you were done at "have a idea".... Great comment tho. rick in Tennessee
I know, but I couldn't stop writing and it wasn't my idea - the Cradle Snatcher was one of the first, if not the first successful damage free wheel lift tow unit. Matt pretty much knows ALL of his stuff. But, if it could be used in the Great New England Blizzard 0f 1978, towing snowed in cars from the highways (Boston was shut down for almost a week) which it was, it could at least manage the slippery sands of Utah (and anywhere else where the ground was reasonably flat or had the use of a jack 😀
@@TheAcceleratorMagazine He used to hate winches when I first started watching :) Give him time, I like the way he dissed the old tire idea then smashed the Razor into the jib, which could have been cusioned with some kind of absorbtion device 🛞 Just because you have lots of follower doesn't make you right be default. :)
@@RobCanada Hey, I'm on his side and stopped makin suggestions. It's his business AND channel so he can do as he pleases. It's the only channel I check every day for new content. I was just updating the commentors. One wrote a long highly detailed comment that was wasted. No disrespect to him or Matt. Musta been new to the channel. Guessin that's why Tom left. Made suggestions that weren't welcome. Again, it's Matt's business and channel. Thanks for takin the time to read and reply to my comment. rick in Tennessee
Matt, how about a military style tow bar with adjustable arms that could be strapped to the front wheels? Every vehicle has front wheels, unless they get ripped off, and most off road vehicles have a lot of clearance around the front wheels. You could make the "feet" of the tow bar pinned on so they pivot and they could be interchangeable with other foot designs for specific vehicles or situations like a missing wheel or attaching to the suspension arms. You could use ratchet straps to attach the "feet" to the wheels making it reasonably quick. My only other idea is to make a fold up style wheel lift with a pivot that could be raised with the boom lines and could cradle the front end like a a heavy wrecker does a road tractor.
I feel like some combination of a long shock with a limiting strap would be your best bet for a bar between wrecker and towed vehicle. Maybe weld some sort of U shaped, well padded metal on the towee side that you could get around an a-arm or frame member and you could weld a hoop on the other end to go in your pintle hitch on the wrecker side. Regardless, I enjoy watching you guys figure out how to make it work every time!
Instead of the tire between riggs suggestion. ...... maybe a block of super dense foam, like the stuff pole vaulters land on. Or.. ..Maybe I'd have to show this idea on paper to make sense but, if you had a bar between the two which had an airbag or some kind of damper that on the towed side could use straps to cinch it up to the A-arms or bumper. I'm thinking air bags cause they're adjustable, you could also make it a Hitch mount kinda deal with gladhand fittings for the air. Just maybe it would work. Also maybe add a slip yoke in there so you don't rip apart what ever damper you use.
That last recovery brought up a good point. If you are gonna take your truck out into off-raod situations, have standard recovery points installed so the guy pulling you out does got to go around the a-arm or axle of your truck with the recovery strap.
Really enjoyed the recent comments Matt made to answer questions about exploring the abandoned mines in the SW - we love having a line-up of expert desert "locals" to help those of us from other locales safely enjoy your glorious deserts! Thanks aren't enough, but thanks to the entire MORR team, as well as Fab Rats, Robbie Layton, and mining and geology specialists Gly and Laura with Abandoned and Forgotten Places - you all help us plan our SW vacations, and we're planning our 16th trip for the spring after we get the JK's driver fixed (knee replacement)! Thanks, Matt and Crew, for what you do! And, if you haven't seen it, Gly and Laura are already using Matt's mining terminology on their latest videos, referencing the "chicken foot" construction of connected drifts within the haulage adits - 😁
What was with the white motorhome at the start? Loved Matt's shirt! You are so right that those offroad vehicles need tow points or maybe between you, Cleet and Heavy D. Airlift service for when all other options aren't!
Matt was talking about something between the tow vehicle and the wrecker. I have always wondered, why couldn't you have someone make something out of a stiff rubber or polyurethane with loops or holes made into it at different lengths. Hook one end to the back of the wrecker and then just let the rubber piece go under the tow vehicle and with the holes at different lengths you can put a soft shakle where you find a tie off point to add some resistance so the tow vehicle doesn't hit the back of the wrecker. Just something I have been thinking of. Love your show! Been watching for years!
@@jeepindave5464 which this one did and people are still suggesting this idea as if it will work. No wonder they have to respond so many times now I didn’t realize there were so many people in these comments were Monday morning tow truck drivers lol
Don't know if you've done or tried this, we used to connect a tire between the tow vehicle and towed, it would stretch when pulling and absorb the hit when braking. Great vids.
Matt, for those side by side recoveries could you take an underlift and mount it to the deck of the wrecker below the boom, and the fab a spreader bar to replace the wheel clamps. Then you could have that almost “ridgid” tow point with both adjustable height and tow bar length, while having the side by side rigged to the wheels or suspension?
POOL NOODLES! They're cheap and they're great for helping with small impacts. Zip tie or ratchet strap a few together and put them on the back of the wrecker or front of whichever vehicle you're towing.
I usually don’t comment but had a thought. Why not make a platform that pivots off the frame of wrecker that you can place the front wheels on. Weld a D-ring on it so can be attached to boom winch. Then you can raise or lower it with obstacles. You can strap tires down like a tow dolly and it won’t move forward or backward.
Here's a thought, how about building a boom attachment for sxs. What I have in my head is basically a T. It would slip into the top of the boom to help make it a little longer to keep the machine away from the bumper and it would act as a spreader bar for the winch lines so you would be grabbing the machine from a wider point thus stopping the plastics from getting crushed. I know all of that isn't ideal for the tow vehicle and I'm not sure what it would do for the stability of the vehicle being towed but sxs's are light enough that I think it would work well
We have large round ball fenders we use on boats that would have worked perfect between the wrecker and side by side in this situation. They make them a lot of different sizes. You really should keep one on the truck for these jobs.
You need a boom that can be extended out the back that can be raised and lowered that has two winch lines come out at 90 deg angles that can attach to the front wheels of the sxs. You raise the sxs up like you normally do then this comes out a foot or 2 below the sxs and you fasten each winch Rope to each front wheel and it should keep the sxs from smacking into the wrecker. Too far out it will drag the ground of course. But just lift the sxs higher to provide the clearance you need. Just an idea. I'd love to come out and build it for you.
Hey Matt, love you guys! Thought just came to me. Instead of stiff-arming the machine, what if, instead, you stiff-arm the winch lines a little above the front of the rig being towed? It would shorten the swing of the lines without having to raise the boom or lift the front of the machine too high. Visualize something like a kickstand (but with better pivoting) on each arm of the boom that can be pivoted around to hold each of the lines away from the rear of the wrecker. Bunch of ways to engineer them but if you permanently attach the pivot-end to the boom arm and then make a clip that each one can snap into, they will be easily accessible when needed but clip out of the way when not in use. They could also be used in conjunction with an adjustable spreader bar between the lines to hold them out wider, side-to-side, so you don’t risk damaging all the plastic bits if the best attachment points below are narrower than the protruding front of the machine. Just a thought. 🤔
Matt !!!! Install 2 hydraulic arms on the wrecker pointing straight back to push against the tire area of the vehicle being hauled . if you put them on swing arms you can adjust for different widths of vehicles
It is somewhat amusing to watch so many people who have no actual experience doing what MORR does daily criticize, pontificate an opinion on what MORR does as their speciality!
Don't know if Matt reads but a suggestion for sideXside towing with wrecker. LOWER the boom as much as possible this will put lift point back away from truck. As SxS swings toward truck it will be going up, so gravity will slow. Then use lower winch line to keep SxS from pulling away, so can gain no momentum
@@Z-BartI've used water as brake fluid in a pinch. Obviously not for long term but it would get you out of a jam. And as long as you flush it out a few times with new brake fluid you will purge out any water
3:00 Matt, you can take something like a flat towing kit, take a v-arm that is there and mount it to the ropes or maybe even soft shackles. If you can put a soft shackle on it, you can mount a v-arm
Look at using a 40” Dive Ball. They are tough and only take about 1.5 psi. Or a large dock fender like a large boat would use to protect it from dock rash. Just a thought.
What is Jefe’s channel called?? I am sure there are many who would support his channel because he is such a nice guy! Also have you ever thought of having a couple of pool noodles (they are really cheap) on the wrecker for those jobs when the cables are rubbing on the vehicle. Super easy to cut to size and place around cable. Great recoveries MORR team ❤
I think Matt doesn't really like it when people leave to start their own channels... Otherwise they would have at least linked to it in the description...
@@Ashley_Schaeffer ]You are wrong. Matt likes to see people get ahead. Jefe is not quite ready to release his Channel yet. We will be notified when he is ready.
So I was thinking (and I know that is dangerous) but what if you made a boom extension for lighter vehicles like SxS not much longer maybe 3 foot that you could slot in by the fairleads on the boom, just to give the vehicle you are towing more room to swing. You could still snub it to the back like you normally do to limit swing in accel but on decel the pendulum effect would be able to do hopefully enough braking to stop the towed vehicle from making contact. You would have to test it but you may not have to lift the boom so high depending on terrain which would probably make the ride for the person in the towed vehicle better as a side effect and leave more room for error if they were late on the brakes of if they are not functional.
Talking about adding some type of arm to the wrecker to keep whatever you're towing from swinging forward. Maybe make some type of universal adjustable length straight bar with a mounting point welded in the center. Then that bar can be strapped to each of the front wheels. That will give you an attachment point to add some type of anti-swing from the wrecker. Just a thought on how to eliminate the swinging back and forth while towing something.
Matt likes to bash SxS, but I can tell you they don’t break that easy without abusing them. My can am came with a front bumper that is strong enough to lift or pull on , the back has a receiver hitch to attach to. You can buy aftermarket bumpers for all of these. I thought the off road trailer was for the broken ones. By the way Matt it’s your choice to recover whatever you want. Are you still an off road recovery or just a U tube channel
Did you check on that Motorhome you thought was stuck on your way back, just wondering. Re the short reach boom, how about a slide out adjustable with pins extension mounted to the underside of it, with a couple of pullies that line up with the winch ropes, and Bob's your uncle, recon that would sort out your clearance problem by up to 3 feet. Good to see Jefe back.
For the bar from wrecker to the wrecked, a telescopic tube that can adjust to different lengths required based on the ride in tow. Eyebolts on either side or something of the such for soft shackle attachment. Could be a triangle that is hinged so that it can also telescope and that attaches to your pintle hitches.
3:12 YES!! Even if just that lower 3rd or half of the "bumper" was steel tube to make that design you could pick it up and drag it out no problem. Plastic bumpers make no sense to me.
The wrecker needs a new BOOM 😊 Instead of stabilizing the towed vehicle, the current one makes the towed vehicle swing around in all directions. The new boom should be about as wide as the wrecker in the back/top (6 ft?), with one winch line in each end/corner. The idea here is that when you lift with both those winch lines from the same point in the center of the towed vehicle, you have a strong triangle that inhibits the motion from side to side. Then, you can attach a single bar between the wrecker and the towed vehicle. This will keep it on the wanted distance. Because of the stability added with the new boom, you would probably not need to fasten either end - it can just hang there loose like with a ball joint. Actually, you could probably use a pipe that the line from the lower winch can go through, so you can loosen and tighten up the bar with the remote, if needed. This pipe can be made adjustable by having two sizes of pipes into each other. You could also add a spring and shock absorber to it.
Mat I have had some experiences where thing were swinging. What I did was the straight life like you did --but-- then I cross ties the ropes. In other words I put a half hitch in the rope on the right (after I lifted to my traveling height) and pulled a rope from the right side to the left and found a tie point on my bed and then the same for the left. Here is an idea if that interested you. Have your rope/wire company design a clamp that would not hurt the main cable buy attaching it (maybe some kind of thumb or snap assembly) Over all I found with the vehicle hanging behind me and the ropes cross tied I had little to no problems ever
These sxs are what you are building the spud truck for, but they are also the reason you have your offroad trailer that you didn't take it. Instead, you brought the heavy wrecker without the trailer in tow.
A lot of the times they use the off-road trailer, the newer side by sides seem to be almost too big. Especially with one wheel broken off, they barely fit on the trailer, if at all. I can understand using the wrecker instead of trying to drag the broken SxS up onto the trailer it barely fits on.
MORR fam, have you considered some form of your own axle under the rear of the sxs's being towed by the offroad wrecker with a trailer brake controller to run brakes on that axle? You would still want someone inside the sxs controlling it. Only thing is most 12v axle brake setups are drum and may not work as nice as caliper brakes. Any option I can think of to build something wouldn't have the clearance you would probably want or it would raise the sxs rear up too high. it would have to be very custom lol.
I would use "Boat Bumpers" (those cylindrical balloon tied to boats when docking too a marina) to prevent side by sides / ATVs to hit the tow truck. These are very soft and will adsorb all the impacts and can be attached easily with ropes on the ATV side. Some models come with holes on each ends. They are also very light so you can throw a couple in your truck. Cheers from Canada
Hey Matt's off road recovery. I'm just taking a swing at this 😉 but I think. If the machine is brought closer to the wrecker (away from the pendulum effect) or the boom extended out. you could gain significant cotrol.
Make your stiffener a t-arm and you can attach to the front end using soft shackles with different option holes for different width vehicles, it's not fully ridgid, but will contain the back and forth motion into a tighter threshold. Attachment at the back of the wrecker can be done in a lot of ways to allow for articulation.
Just a suggestion. You need a spreader bar. 2 Fixed points on the bar for the winch and then some sort of sliding/adjustable slings for the ATV. More junk to carry around but could make ATV recoveries less aggro.
Solid bar suggestion for holding vehicles away. Add a bar, with joints at each end, from the truck, to a clasp that loops around the cable. Then it would follow to where the hook points are, and it would have room to move, but only a few inches instead.
What about two brace arms that attach to the winch lines. Like an eyelet that the soft shackle would thread thru. And it would keep the Can-Am spaced off the back. The way you hooked up to the tires, it would keep the braces up enough to keep from hole punching the grill. Just a thought
I had an idea when watching this recovery. What about making some telescopic compression tubes with compression springs in them? You could hook one on each side of the back of the wrecker and one on each side of the front end of the car/side by side you are towing so when the towed vehicle gets too close to the wrecker the springs will keep the wehicle from running into the back of the wrecker.
The 6x6 would solve a lot of these problems. it’s hard to judge the aas they have been working on it. I think the height is going to be the biggest issue. It’s as tall as his road rollback. I wondered why they did not build it lower and have drove over fenders. The bed tilting and sliding back would clear and the fenders could taper to the rear like a ramp. The winch could pull the razors over the fender ramp if needed. Unloading could be done with a reverse winch pull. Or a system like the move containers on trailers or trash dumpsters. They would have to modify the frame but the center of gravity could go down a lot. It would go over terrain a lot
Lower boom down as close to shock towers as possible, attach there, then it will have minimal movement forward and backwards, yes more tippy side to side but I believe you know how to easily accept/account for that, ultimately a set of specialty rigs built into 1 is what is needed
My wife and I have been in St George this week and we stopped by MORR a couple days ago. It was really cool to see everything and all the folks we talked with were super nice. I would have loved to pet the doggos while we were there, but they were shooting video at the time so it wasn't possible. We did see Matt and Peanut come out of the shop while we were there. Spoke with Jake for a few minutes and he's just as genuinely nice as he appears in the videos. I was actually surprised at how small the shop area was, as it looks really big on video. For me it was the highlight of the trip! Thanks MORR!!!!
They do have ER brake if he needs to use it. Right??
Well it would pretty easy to make a universal T-Bar that would fit into the wrecker's receiver and be positioned to let the front tires or tire bump up against the T-bar which could also have bumpers on it to bounce against the tires or tire...
I miss the old days of being able to stop by during business hours and just chat with Matt and the team. I have pictures of me and my girlfriend checking out the Morrvair build, petting Max, and touring the shop. We were on a road trip from Idaho to Yuma, AZ and I was an early fan of his videos, so I just stopped by. Everyone was super nice and cool.
Unfortunately, because of the incredible increase in popularity, they have had to clamp down on tourists and accessibility. I totally understand and get why things have changed. Last time I stopped by on my yearly road trip, I didn't make it past the little office, didn't see anyone, and was just offered to buy merch. Sad, but it is what it is.
Jefe thank you for your service.✝✌ From a retired76 year-old us army E -9 First. Sergeant From The Good Old U.S.of A Combat vet of two warswiththe25thDiv in Vietnam & 24th.Div in Iraq to include being seriously wounded in both combats! good luck on your new channel and I love this show
Matt, I think the reason you are so successful is because you make your audience feel like family. Thank you.
Thanks for pulling me out!!! Lol my dad wanted everyone to know he wasn't driving😂😂😂😂 you guys are awesome!!!!!
Peanut hit the lottery finding you. What a great life for her!
I have a brown and white boarder collie . He has to go with me in what ever I drive , Head out the window and enjoying the view . The people I got him from called him Charlie and my last name is Brown= Charlie Brown LOL
Or is it Matt hit the lottery finding Peanut? 😊
Well it would pretty easy to make a universal T-Bar that would fit into the wrecker's receiver and be positioned to let the front tires or tire bump up against the T-bar which could also have bumpers on it to bounce against the tires or tire...
I am glad to see Jefe back. He is a great part of MORR.
Matt. When you need to block/isolate one brake, use this trick. Undo a line at the nearest undamaged spot. Install a little disk made out of a soda (beer) can. Reinstall that line, trapping the disk in place, thus blocking off that wheel's brake. I've successfully used this trick numerous times to temporarily block off a brake while causing no damage.
Great channel!
Vettepilot
Well it would pretty easy to make a universal T-Bar that would fit into the wrecker's receiver and be positioned to let the front tires or tire bump up against the T-bar which could also have bumpers on it to bounce against the tires or tire...
A pair of vice grips or a nail to block it off works wonders.Also,bigger hydraulic hoses can be blocked off with dimes or nickles.Old underground mining tricks.
Something I've seen that might be a tad easier, carry small bolts of varying size and just screw it into the end of the hose to block off the flow.
@@lonniemuncy1005i have used Vise grips to get out of the Rubicon. Works great.
The scenery, the comradery between the team, the family environment, the dogs and a cup of coffee to start my day...I personally think of your channel as Matt's Off Road Mental Recovery. Thank you.
@@joeradican2023 so true
Well said!
...and I concur....
Dude! Jeffe me missed ya bro. Thanks for serving your country all those years and congrats on retirement.
Jefe thanks for serving our country! Good luck with your new youtube channel. Morrvair and big wrecker to the rescue. Matt's right the spud truck needs to be working for these broken sxs! Good video!
The Morr crew is at it again, saving those in need. You all do a fantastic job getting them out! Always a good time watching everyone having fun and getting people out of tight spots at the same time!!
The Norwegian armed forces uses modified under reach wheel lift mounted on a modified square tube tow hitch, on the G-Wagens and Isuzus, to salvage their Polaris vehicles. Much the same terrain as you guys have, but more low brushes and less sand. The Danish armed forces use the same thing. There are clamping devices on them that can be adjusted to any width and height and that clampes on to wheels, A-arms or drive shafts. A relatively big canvas air bag sometimes cushions the movements between the vehicles. Maybe an idea? Thanks for sharing! Best regards from Norway.
He seems to be absolutely opposed to a wheel lift for some reason. I live nearby and there is no regional reason for this that I am aware of, just Matt having a strong opinion. I agree with you though.
I can see of a reason not to use SMC Car Towing A-Frame 2.6Ton Recovery Dolly Trailer together with Matt’s boom is the danger of the vehicle being tow excessive high approach angle. On certain downhill terrain, the vehicle being tow will “ride” on top of A-Frame dolly if the tow vehicle make sudden stop (that’s why always someone in tow modulate the brake)
@@CapablePimento They can't use a wheel lift with some of the angles they drive up and down over rocks and stuff, he's explained it.
The wheel lifts aren’t gonna work for off road recoveries. Way too many extremes in the environment. Not only that he don’t get paid for most of these recoveries so I’m sure he don’t want to invest a lot of money
One consideration here is that they're always doing recoveries that involve detached front wheels
You asked about a bar for towing SXS's. It never occurred to me you needed one until this one with no brakes, but here's a suggestion you could put together in an afternoon ...
What if you fabbed up some type of y-shaped tow bar that could be clamped to the lower a-arms of the SXS?
I think the arms of the "Y" would have to be able to swing in and out so you could use it on all trackwidths as you try to find a good spot on the A-arm that would clear the pretty plastic body parts. You'd also need some kind of clamping/strapping system that could wrap around the whole a-arms even if they had skid plates.
The "tail" of the "Y" could have a steel loop in it to connect to your pintle hitch and let you turn and go through any angle without binding.
I'm thinking somewhere along the arms there would need to be connection points for your winches to lift the "Y" adapter and, with it, the end of the SXS off the ground for towing. Seems like you'd want those winch points to be as close to the SXS as possible.
Did I explain it well enough? I can send a picture of a good sketch if my explanation is a mess.
I really think it'd work but you have WAY more experience than me.
My wife and I love this channel so much! Thanks for all the content including the shop content channel! It is the epitome of edutainment!
Nice to see Jefe back, will definitely follow his channel
Whats his channel name? I'm a doofus and mightve missed it
I think its great that Matt has a way to allow his people to grow too... we wait to know the new channel
@@imacaryay7628 I didn't catch it either.
Great to get an update on Jefe! Glad he’s doing well.
The first time I saw the Morrvair, I was hooked. People can come and go, but as long as the Morrvair stays, so will I. Love that car!
The music that Morrvair makes towing something up the beach is just beautiful! Thanks for the video!
Pinching that brake line was probably worth a go.
But I understand the head space of ‘I hate these bloody things let’s just get it over with’.
Well it would pretty easy to make a universal T-Bar that would fit into the wrecker's receiver and be positioned to let the front tires or tire bump up against the T-bar which could also have bumpers on it to bounce against the tires or tire...
That's what I was thinking. Not sure if they just omitted them looking for a tool they didn't have on hand, but I doubt that they'd just be sending it without thinking through the brakes even if they didn't show it.
Great recoveries guys and Caitlin....love the videos...stay safe and see you soon
Thanks for another great vid! I met all of you at Sand Hollow at the first games. I noticed Jefe's guard plates on his truck. I introduced myself, a retired First Sergeant, and we chatted a bit and Jefe said he'd be retiring soon. Thank you for your service and your courtesy offered when we met! Take care and catch ya on the next vid!
Jeffe grew 10 years since I last saw him
Beards make you look older. I'm 38 and look my age with my beard. No beard, people start asking me where I go to college hahahaha.
Still has a missing tooth like a stingy gold miner
I think he's lost weight as well.
You can tell he left the Army - immediate beard!
Plus he seems done with the braces .
Hey Matt, this idea wouldn't help with the nose bumping your wrecker...
But have you ever thought of using what is called a "spreader bar" between your two lifting ropes / lines. This would create more of a box shape and widen out where your lifting lines pass by the hood/fenders etc.
Cranes use them for large loads & marinas use the to lift boats. You wouldn't need anything that heavy ( I-Beam), you could use a 1.5 inch pipe and maybe make it adjustable for common widths of vehicles you tow.
You probably have already thought of this & figured out some reason why it wouldn't work... I would love to hear about that... Good luck! 😊
1:25 peanut is in dogy heaven. hanging out the window while sitting on matts lap 💞
She seems to be so enthusiastic and alert like that. Maybe she was hunting for a rabbit?
i was scanning the comments and did not watch the video yet and for a moment thought Peanut had died! I was about to get misty lol. No Peanut, no Ed I might unsub.
16:25 her cleaning her paws in the back seat
You need to manufacture a universal temporary bumper attachment that has the ability to adjust and attach to multiple styles of razors when they need to be towed. There are some newer vehicles that I think could also be modified and turned into a similar vehicle to the Morvair including the following: Saturn Wagon, Ford Taurus Wagon, Subaru Outback, Dodge Magnum Wagon, and any other crossover type wagon vehicles. I only bring this up because there are more of those donor vehicles available than there are the older Corvair Wagons. The Morvair is one of the coolest vehicles I have ever seen.
Thank you Jefe for your service.
Okay I was one of those who commented, year or so ago about a stiff link from the pintle hitch. If you are pulling from the back there is normally a receiver hitch that you could attach to but most are damaged at the front. So I have an idea how this might work. You could try putting a piece in the receiver hitch on the SXS that would 90 down and extend an attachment point below the bottom. Then run an adjustable length tube (driveline from something?) from that point to the pintle on the wrecker. Seems easy enough to weld up and try.
Its great to see Jefe again. Seems he always has a smile. Too bad he didn't mention the name of his channel. Nice recoveries. Thanks for the video.
hey Matt
Thanks for sharing your adventures.
I've been thinking of your dilemma towing those side by sides and came up with a pretty simple idea you might like.
I was thinking of a pipe, about 3" diameter, maybe 4 or 5 feet long with a sort tee on one and with rings welded on each end.
The single ring would attach to your hitch at the center of the rear bumper on your tow truck and extend underneath the vehicle you're towing and then attach straps from the suspension back to the two rings on either side of the bar, but not tight, just tight enough to keep the towed vehicle from hitting your tow truck.
I was also thinking you could make the bar that goes underneath into a simple shock absorber by with a capped tube inside the main tube with a strong spring inside and also two smaller springs on the outside from the two tees down to the outer tube to keep the unit together.
Just a thought.
Thanks again, Kevin
Glad to see that Jefe is doing well!!
Adding a firm connection between the wrecker and towed vehicle. Consider building a Y shaped device. The (Y) pieces should pivot at the y to make wider or narrower and go to the tie rod area next to the wheel. Then attach ratchet straps to go around the tie rod area to affix that to the y. Next the long portion of the y could have two pieces, one inside the other so one is inside the other and holes holes through each so the long portion of the y can be made longer or shorter to fit the desired tow length. A simple ball hitch on the end will finish the job. Watching your great content is a joy. Thanks
Jefe is back! Welcome back!
Maybe some form of an adjustable length cross bar that sticks out that is lowered and raised by the cable from the boom. It ratchet straps to the lower arms (or what's left there of the suspension arms) of a side by side or wheels of a vehicle. When not in use, it folds into the bed of the wrecker so as to affect departure angles. Otherwise if you want another option to pull side-by-sides with the wrecker, besides the rollback if its busy or broken down, then why not just make a 2 wheel vehicle dolley just for side-by-sides just so there is one set of wheels under the disabled portion of the side-by-side? They are usually only damaged on either the front or back but rarely both.
3:23 for the manufactures to put any type of accessory on the front like a bumper or tow hook, will concede that all they’re selling, are broken ball joints, and axles on a rolling chassis.
The way you design the tow bar; Create a T bar with a telescoping length using unistrut, determine a desired minimum and maximum length. On one end of the center tow bar affix a tow ring that will attach to the wrecker. On the other end affix a cross bar. On that cross bar make two adjustable blocks that can adjust from side to side. Make the slide back and forth and pin in place, use unistrut here too. (Unistrut is the stuff they put stop signs on, it has 3/8” holes spaced 1”apart on all 4 sides.) These blocks should be maybe 6” tall, with a cushioned cradle that can pivot. When attaching to a towed vehicle, the top of the “T” attaches to the towed vehicle, adjust the blocks and affix them in place and strap the vehicle to that block, the bottom end of the “T” that has the pintle ring drops into the pintle, done. You use the hoist to keep or adjust the height of the towed vehicle, the backwards “T” tow bar (think of how you flat tow a VW) keeps your towed vehicle at a fixed distance.
Jefe! Great to see you. We have room for another channel in our list. We'll check it out.
Matt keep up the great work been watching your videos from day one when it was only you and Ed. God bless
Matt, you need to check out an old "Cradle Snatcher" wheel lift tow unit. It had an overhead hydraulic boom - the "frame of which went up at about a 60 degree angle for three feet, and then leveled off so it was parallel to the ground for about 5 feet. The boom could go up and down using one ram and in and using another. A heavy steel "wing" hung from the end of the boom. Two seta of "straps" hung from either end of the wing. The straps attached to two "trays". The trays were hung on the back of the unit while in transit (fully secured). You would take off each tray and slide one under the back of the tires and the other in the front of the tires - they weren't that heavy. The trays were secured to each other by a heavy chain. The straps from the wings attached to the front and back of the trays. When you lifted the boom everything would tighten up, the car would be tightly held by its tires sitting in the trays. The end result, is a fully secured car "floating" in the air - looking just like your side-by-sides. The way the trays were connected to the vehicle was slick (realize that the way the wing attached to the boom allowed it to turn as the car "followed" the tow truck). On the middle of the front tray, a circular piece of heavy duty steel was welded (it had a "tab" welded on to either side of the circle). Securely mounted to the back of the tow truck was a large "receiver" made of heavy duty steel. The implementation of the connections, kind of resembled how a ball hitch is slipped into its receiver. The difference with the Cradle Snatcher is that its "receiver" was only three sided, the top was open. A large, heavy 2"x4" steel "tow bar" about 3 feet long with the end having a heavy duty "ring" welded to it. The ring had two slots cut into its inside circumference, allowing it to be placed over the tabs on the front tray, you'd extend the boom out a little, swing the tow bar around to slide into the receiver which would then be locked using by a heavy duty pin much like the old ones used on the tow bar of an old fashioned sling. When the ring was attached to the circle, the tabs would ensure that the connection couldn't be separated while towing. Between the wing, the trays, and the tow bar the towed vehicle was safely secured and would "track" perfectly" behind the tow truck.
Fun fact, to tow a car from the middle of a bunch of cars closely parked along a sidewalk was super easy with the Cradle Snatcher. You just had to approach the desired vehicle at a ninety degree angle - line up the boom with the center of the front or rear tire, and stop about three feet away from the target tire. You'd place the trays under either tire as normal, swing the wing out at a 90 degree angle, attach the wing straps to the trays and lift the car. You could then easily tow the car out of its space with no damage. You just needed to attach the tow bar and you'd be on your way. The whole operation took about 5 minutes,
The End 😄
Wasting time and energy.....
Matt knows every kind of tow attachment there is but just hates the idea of any kind of tow sling, wheel lift thingy. Even tho you're just writing on air, I write long comments too, you were done at "have a idea"....
Great comment tho.
rick in Tennessee
I know, but I couldn't stop writing and it wasn't my idea - the Cradle Snatcher was one of the first, if not the first successful damage free wheel lift tow unit. Matt pretty much knows ALL of his stuff. But, if it could be used in the Great New England Blizzard 0f 1978, towing snowed in cars from the highways (Boston was shut down for almost a week) which it was, it could at least manage the slippery sands of Utah (and anywhere else where the ground was reasonably flat or had the use of a jack 😀
@@TheAcceleratorMagazine He used to hate winches when I first started watching :) Give him time, I like the way he dissed the old tire idea then smashed the Razor into the jib, which could have been cusioned with some kind of absorbtion device 🛞 Just because you have lots of follower doesn't make you right be default. :)
@@RobCanada Hey, I'm on his side and stopped makin suggestions. It's his business AND channel so he can do as he pleases. It's the only channel I check every day for new content. I was just updating the commentors. One wrote a long highly detailed comment that was wasted. No disrespect to him or Matt. Musta been new to the channel. Guessin that's why Tom left. Made suggestions that weren't welcome. Again, it's Matt's business and channel.
Thanks for takin the time to read and reply to my comment.
rick in Tennessee
@@johntuttle5396 I know....
I do the same thing, or did. I try to control my self now days.
Thanks for nice reply.
rick in Tennessee
Daily viewer.
16:39 peanut in the back licking mud off her paws 😂😅
Matt, how about a military style tow bar with adjustable arms that could be strapped to the front wheels? Every vehicle has front wheels, unless they get ripped off, and most off road vehicles have a lot of clearance around the front wheels. You could make the "feet" of the tow bar pinned on so they pivot and they could be interchangeable with other foot designs for specific vehicles or situations like a missing wheel or attaching to the suspension arms. You could use ratchet straps to attach the "feet" to the wheels making it reasonably quick.
My only other idea is to make a fold up style wheel lift with a pivot that could be raised with the boom lines and could cradle the front end like a a heavy wrecker does a road tractor.
Might try a big inflatable boat fender for those plastic bumpers. Great videos!
I feel like some combination of a long shock with a limiting strap would be your best bet for a bar between wrecker and towed vehicle. Maybe weld some sort of U shaped, well padded metal on the towee side that you could get around an a-arm or frame member and you could weld a hoop on the other end to go in your pintle hitch on the wrecker side. Regardless, I enjoy watching you guys figure out how to make it work every time!
Thanks for your service Jefe!!
-Retired USN
Instead of the tire between riggs suggestion. ...... maybe a block of super dense foam, like the stuff pole vaulters land on. Or.. ..Maybe I'd have to show this idea on paper to make sense but, if you had a bar between the two which had an airbag or some kind of damper that on the towed side could use straps to cinch it up to the A-arms or bumper. I'm thinking air bags cause they're adjustable, you could also make it a Hitch mount kinda deal with gladhand fittings for the air.
Just maybe it would work. Also maybe add a slip yoke in there so you don't rip apart what ever damper you use.
That last recovery brought up a good point. If you are gonna take your truck out into off-raod situations, have standard recovery points installed so the guy pulling you out does got to go around the a-arm or axle of your truck with the recovery strap.
Really enjoyed the recent comments Matt made to answer questions about exploring the abandoned mines in the SW - we love having a line-up of expert desert "locals" to help those of us from other locales safely enjoy your glorious deserts! Thanks aren't enough, but thanks to the entire MORR team, as well as Fab Rats, Robbie Layton, and mining and geology specialists Gly and Laura with Abandoned and Forgotten Places - you all help us plan our SW vacations, and we're planning our 16th trip for the spring after we get the JK's driver fixed (knee replacement)! Thanks, Matt and Crew, for what you do! And, if you haven't seen it, Gly and Laura are already using Matt's mining terminology on their latest videos, referencing the "chicken foot" construction of connected drifts within the haulage adits - 😁
What was with the white motorhome at the start? Loved Matt's shirt! You are so right that those offroad vehicles need tow points or maybe between you, Cleet and Heavy D. Airlift service for when all other options aren't!
meth lab
Off road HELICOPTER!!
Prolly some over-the-top 120K overlander on a stretched FT4x4 Mercedes euro-van chassis🙄
Matt was talking about something between the tow vehicle and the wrecker.
I have always wondered, why couldn't you have someone make something out of a stiff rubber or polyurethane with loops or holes made into it at different lengths. Hook one end to the back of the wrecker and then just let the rubber piece go under the tow vehicle and with the holes at different lengths you can put a soft shakle where you find a tie off point to add some resistance so the tow vehicle doesn't hit the back of the wrecker.
Just something I have been thinking of.
Love your show! Been watching for years!
Rectangular tire dolly that the wheels strap to and the winch lines connect to the dolly. You can then add a stiff arm to the dolly if so desired.
Only works when wheels are attached.
@@darrinrebagliati5365yeah usually those have the whole front suspension blown apart. 😂
@@jeepindave5464 which this one did and people are still suggesting this idea as if it will work.
No wonder they have to respond so many times now I didn’t realize there were so many people in these comments were Monday morning tow truck drivers lol
Why not use the trailer?
Don't know if you've done or tried this, we used to connect a tire between the tow vehicle and towed, it would stretch when pulling and absorb the hit when braking. Great vids.
Nice job by her dad raising her. She was in the mud helping get it out. I hope she keeps getting out there, and enjoying the outdoors.
That wasn't the one that got it stuck. That was a different girl.
appeared to be the shovel chick had a cocktail or two
Matt, for those side by side recoveries could you take an underlift and mount it to the deck of the wrecker below the boom, and the fab a spreader bar to replace the wheel clamps. Then you could have that almost “ridgid” tow point with both adjustable height and tow bar length, while having the side by side rigged to the wheels or suspension?
POOL NOODLES! They're cheap and they're great for helping with small impacts. Zip tie or ratchet strap a few together and put them on the back of the wrecker or front of whichever vehicle you're towing.
I usually don’t comment but had a thought. Why not make a platform that pivots off the frame of wrecker that you can place the front wheels on. Weld a D-ring on it so can be attached to boom winch. Then you can raise or lower it with obstacles. You can strap tires down like a tow dolly and it won’t move forward or backward.
Cool to see Jefe back .
Here's a thought, how about building a boom attachment for sxs. What I have in my head is basically a T. It would slip into the top of the boom to help make it a little longer to keep the machine away from the bumper and it would act as a spreader bar for the winch lines so you would be grabbing the machine from a wider point thus stopping the plastics from getting crushed. I know all of that isn't ideal for the tow vehicle and I'm not sure what it would do for the stability of the vehicle being towed but sxs's are light enough that I think it would work well
We have large round ball fenders we use on boats that would have worked perfect between the wrecker and side by side in this situation. They make them a lot of different sizes. You really should keep one on the truck for these jobs.
This is the best idea I've read so far. They'd probably go through a few a year, but they'd protect the WLORW
Was thinking the same
You need a boom that can be extended out the back that can be raised and lowered that has two winch lines come out at 90 deg angles that can attach to the front wheels of the sxs. You raise the sxs up like you normally do then this comes out a foot or 2 below the sxs and you fasten each winch Rope to each front wheel and it should keep the sxs from smacking into the wrecker. Too far out it will drag the ground of course. But just lift the sxs higher to provide the clearance you need. Just an idea. I'd love to come out and build it for you.
Hey Matt, love you guys! Thought just came to me. Instead of stiff-arming the machine, what if, instead, you stiff-arm the winch lines a little above the front of the rig being towed?
It would shorten the swing of the lines without having to raise the boom or lift the front of the machine too high.
Visualize something like a kickstand (but with better pivoting) on each arm of the boom that can be pivoted around to hold each of the lines away from the rear of the wrecker. Bunch of ways to engineer them but if you permanently attach the pivot-end to the boom arm and then make a clip that each one can snap into, they will be easily accessible when needed but clip out of the way when not in use.
They could also be used in conjunction with an adjustable spreader bar between the lines to hold them out wider, side-to-side, so you don’t risk damaging all the plastic bits if the best attachment points below are narrower than the protruding front of the machine.
Just a thought. 🤔
Matt !!!! Install 2 hydraulic arms on the wrecker pointing straight back to push against the tire area of the vehicle being hauled . if you put them on swing arms you can adjust for different widths of vehicles
It is somewhat amusing to watch so many people who have no actual experience doing what MORR does daily criticize, pontificate an opinion on what MORR does as their speciality!
Don't know if Matt reads but a suggestion for sideXside towing with wrecker. LOWER the boom as much as possible this will put lift point back away from truck. As SxS swings toward truck it will be going up, so gravity will slow. Then use lower winch line to keep SxS from pulling away, so can gain no momentum
Pinch the cut line off, you'll have 3 brakes!😉
Yes! Came to say this! The line is already damaged, pinch it off!
Except, he hit the brake pedal and blasted all the fluid out the broken line. Oops.
@@Z-BartI've used water as brake fluid in a pinch. Obviously not for long term but it would get you out of a jam. And as long as you flush it out a few times with new brake fluid you will purge out any water
Vice grips, pinch the line off
@@SnowPiercer1975 Good tip.
3:00 Matt, you can take something like a flat towing kit, take a v-arm that is there and mount it to the ropes or maybe even soft shackles. If you can put a soft shackle on it, you can mount a v-arm
Jefe - thank you for your service.
Look at using a 40” Dive Ball. They are tough and only take about 1.5 psi. Or a large dock fender like a large boat would use to protect it from dock rash. Just a thought.
9:31 When you're a Peanut and you wanna shlorp Dad, but Dad's busy talking to the camera.
I agree - here in Quartzsite it is cooling down. The cooler nights are great.
HEY! Gooooooood morning everybody !
Have a good Friday
Good evening from Australia 😁
@@this_andrewgood morning from Atlantic Canada! Have a good snooze
Morning mate
Good morning!
thank you for your service jefe!❤ always love to see your humble personality and occasional funny little comments. can't wait for the new channel!
What is Jefe’s channel called?? I am sure there are many who would support his channel because he is such a nice guy! Also have you ever thought of having a couple of pool noodles (they are really cheap) on the wrecker for those jobs when the cables are rubbing on the vehicle. Super easy to cut to size and place around cable. Great recoveries MORR team ❤
In Canada we have hollow pool noodles split for insulation on pipes!
I think Matt doesn't really like it when people leave to start their own channels... Otherwise they would have at least linked to it in the description...
@@Ashley_Schaeffer ]You are wrong. Matt likes to see people get ahead. Jefe is not quite ready to release his Channel yet. We will be notified when he is ready.
So I was thinking (and I know that is dangerous) but what if you made a boom extension for lighter vehicles like SxS not much longer maybe 3 foot that you could slot in by the fairleads on the boom, just to give the vehicle you are towing more room to swing. You could still snub it to the back like you normally do to limit swing in accel but on decel the pendulum effect would be able to do hopefully enough braking to stop the towed vehicle from making contact. You would have to test it but you may not have to lift the boom so high depending on terrain which would probably make the ride for the person in the towed vehicle better as a side effect and leave more room for error if they were late on the brakes of if they are not functional.
Talking about adding some type of arm to the wrecker to keep whatever you're towing from swinging forward. Maybe make some type of universal adjustable length straight bar with a mounting point welded in the center. Then that bar can be strapped to each of the front wheels. That will give you an attachment point to add some type of anti-swing from the wrecker. Just a thought on how to eliminate the swinging back and forth while towing something.
Matt likes to bash SxS, but I can tell you they don’t break that easy without abusing them. My can am came with a front bumper that is strong enough to lift or pull on , the back has a receiver hitch to attach to. You can buy aftermarket bumpers for all of these. I thought the off road trailer was for the broken ones. By the way Matt it’s your choice to recover whatever you want. Are you still an off road recovery or just a U tube channel
I thought of that too. But I did notice the bigger ones just barely fit on the trailer. That one looks almost as big as the wrecker length.
Did you check on that Motorhome you thought was stuck on your way back, just wondering. Re the short reach boom, how about a slide out adjustable with pins extension mounted to the underside of it, with a couple of pullies that line up with the winch ropes, and Bob's your uncle, recon that would sort out your clearance problem by up to 3 feet. Good to see Jefe back.
Put a spreader bar on the two boom lines? Add a stiff bar to the spreader bar?
Spread dez cheeks
or a tire
@@webfreakzdidn't he just say the tire would destroy the front of the razor and raidiator
@@dormantmenace then use pillows
For the bar from wrecker to the wrecked, a telescopic tube that can adjust to different lengths required based on the ride in tow. Eyebolts on either side or something of the such for soft shackle attachment. Could be a triangle that is hinged so that it can also telescope and that attaches to your pintle hitches.
What the manufacturers must do is build them stronger, it is ridiculous how easy they break..
3:12 YES!! Even if just that lower 3rd or half of the "bumper" was steel tube to make that design you could pick it up and drag it out no problem. Plastic bumpers make no sense to me.
3:18 or you could build a off road 6x6 flat bed tow truck to haul them
You guys are becoming cohesive with each other and are really putting on a good show.
Why not use vice grip on brake line?
The wrecker needs a new BOOM 😊
Instead of stabilizing the towed vehicle, the current one makes the towed vehicle swing around in all directions.
The new boom should be about as wide as the wrecker in the back/top (6 ft?), with one winch line in each end/corner.
The idea here is that when you lift with both those winch lines from the same point in the center of the towed vehicle, you have a strong triangle that inhibits the motion from side to side.
Then, you can attach a single bar between the wrecker and the towed vehicle. This will keep it on the wanted distance.
Because of the stability added with the new boom, you would probably not need to fasten either end - it can just hang there loose like with a ball joint.
Actually, you could probably use a pipe that the line from the lower winch can go through, so you can loosen and tighten up the bar with the remote, if needed. This pipe can be made adjustable by having two sizes of pipes into each other.
You could also add a spring and shock absorber to it.
Every time is better than the last. You’re on a roll!
who seriously believes that this is not a Bot comment?
Mat I have had some experiences where thing were swinging. What I did was the straight life like you did --but-- then I cross ties the ropes. In other words I put a half hitch in the rope on the right (after I lifted to my traveling height) and pulled a rope from the right side to the left and found a tie point on my bed and then the same for the left. Here is an idea if that interested you. Have your rope/wire company design a clamp that would not hurt the main cable buy attaching it (maybe some kind of thumb or snap assembly) Over all I found with the vehicle hanging behind me and the ropes cross tied I had little to no problems ever
These sxs are what you are building the spud truck for, but they are also the reason you have your offroad trailer that you didn't take it. Instead, you brought the heavy wrecker without the trailer in tow.
A lot of the times they use the off-road trailer, the newer side by sides seem to be almost too big. Especially with one wheel broken off, they barely fit on the trailer, if at all. I can understand using the wrecker instead of trying to drag the broken SxS up onto the trailer it barely fits on.
MORR fam, have you considered some form of your own axle under the rear of the sxs's being towed by the offroad wrecker with a trailer brake controller to run brakes on that axle? You would still want someone inside the sxs controlling it. Only thing is most 12v axle brake setups are drum and may not work as nice as caliper brakes. Any option I can think of to build something wouldn't have the clearance you would probably want or it would raise the sxs rear up too high. it would have to be very custom lol.
Who is that dude driving the wrecker?!?😂
Think it's alternate reality Matt
@Jimmy_Jones let's get that guy another candy bar!
I am very glad that Jeff has shown himself. People have been asking where he has been.
I would use "Boat Bumpers" (those cylindrical balloon tied to boats when docking too a marina) to prevent side by sides / ATVs to hit the tow truck. These are very soft and will adsorb all the impacts and can be attached easily with ropes on the ATV side. Some models come with holes on each ends.
They are also very light so you can throw a couple in your truck.
Cheers from Canada
Same reason normal wreckers quit using slings decades ago!!!
Hey Matt's off road recovery. I'm just taking a swing at this 😉 but I think. If the machine is brought closer to the wrecker (away from the pendulum effect) or the boom extended out. you could gain significant cotrol.
Make your stiffener a t-arm and you can attach to the front end using soft shackles with different option holes for different width vehicles, it's not fully ridgid, but will contain the back and forth motion into a tighter threshold. Attachment at the back of the wrecker can be done in a lot of ways to allow for articulation.
JEFFEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!! I've missed you brother. Good to see you, looking forward to visiting your new channel
How about an inner tube? You have onboard air so you could adjust the tube to match the weight of the towed vehicle.
Good to see Katelyn. God Bless.
Just a suggestion. You need a spreader bar. 2 Fixed points on the bar for the winch and then some sort of sliding/adjustable slings for the ATV. More junk to carry around but could make ATV recoveries less aggro.
Solid bar suggestion for holding vehicles away. Add a bar, with joints at each end, from the truck, to a clasp that loops around the cable. Then it would follow to where the hook points are, and it would have room to move, but only a few inches instead.
What about two brace arms that attach to the winch lines. Like an eyelet that the soft shackle would thread thru. And it would keep the Can-Am spaced off the back. The way you hooked up to the tires, it would keep the braces up enough to keep from hole punching the grill. Just a thought
I had an idea when watching this recovery. What about making some telescopic compression tubes with compression springs in them? You could hook one on each side of the back of the wrecker and one on each side of the front end of the car/side by side you are towing so when the towed vehicle gets too close to the wrecker the springs will keep the wehicle from running into the back of the wrecker.
The 6x6 would solve a lot of these problems. it’s hard to judge the aas they have been working on it. I think the height is going to be the biggest issue. It’s as tall as his road rollback. I wondered why they did not build it lower and have drove over fenders. The bed tilting and sliding back would clear and the fenders could taper to the rear like a ramp. The winch could pull the razors over the fender ramp if needed. Unloading could be done with a reverse winch pull. Or a system like the move containers on trailers or trash dumpsters. They would have to modify the frame but the center of gravity could go down a lot. It would go over terrain a lot
Lower boom down as close to shock towers as possible, attach there, then it will have minimal movement forward and backwards, yes more tippy side to side but I believe you know how to easily accept/account for that, ultimately a set of specialty rigs built into 1 is what is needed