VCarve inlay - CNCnutz Episode 59
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- This is my first attempt at Vcarve Inlaying.
To do this you need to use Vectric VCarvepro to create the toolpaths.
You also need to read and understand the method outlined in the document at the bottom of this post
forum.vectric....
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Your channel is, by far, the best reference for hands-on demonstrations of hobbyist CNC, mister. This was uploaded 6 years ago, and it’s still incredibly useful and perfectly relevant. Your channel and its content will still be floating around the web 30 years from now, and considered must-watch for any CNC nutz, mark my words ;) Thanks!
Thanks Simon
Peter, I just completed my first inlay project and with your help it came out perfect the first time. As a mater of fact it was so good that I used my practice male piece on the actual project. Couldn't be happier!! Cheers to you from across the pond.
I took a picture for you but can't post it here.
Thanks,
Dave
+solarmandave
That's great Dave.
If you like you can email the photo to me. cncnutz65@gmail.com
I would like to see it.
Cheers
Peter
i bet its a perfect program for people looking to do mother of pearl inlays on guitar fretboards , man the possibilities are endless
this is one of the things where even one that isnt good at working exact with woodworking tools kan look like a professional
+watahyahknow
It certainly does a good job and once you master the technique is easy to do.
Depending on the purpose of the plate, to have the symbol just proud of the surface, as it was when you have finished with the bandsaw, looks equally impressive. To the observer, unfamiliar with wood working and not knowing how it's done, it is a delicate fine result.
+Greynerd
That's very true, I never thought of that. It would look very impressive to have v shaped characters just proud of the wood background
Cheers
Peter
Very nice, i find running the endmill pass first and the v carve 2nd gives a cleaner end product🙏
Great Video, I started an inlay with my son yesterday. By the way your Chinese character is actually a Japanese character for love.
Hope all goes well with your inlay.
To be honest Chinese and Japanese look the same, It's all Greek to me.
Cheers
Peter
If you hate sanding as mush as I do, then just use a surfacing bit to CNC the remaining inlay off. Super nice finish with out the Hassel
Thank you for your feedback...
Maybe a video on feeds and speeds would be a great project
Hermoso trabajo, gracias por compartirlo
'chicken soup' very funny
Awesome video. I plan on doing some v carved inlays soon but will do in mastercam. Hopefully I can achieve similar results. I like the idea of sharp corners for sure. Thanks for sharing.
Your Welcome.Hope the VCarves come out good for you.CheersPeter
The document in the description has been moved to: www.vectric.org/video/aspire4-vcp7/2d-25d-techniques/D07/VCarve_Inlay_Description_and_Procedure.pdf
On the male inlay, how deep is the actual cut from the blue top to the bottom flat area? I only have Start Depth and Max Depth in my Carbide Create software, not Flat depth.
the glue goes on the female part much easier and it will satisfy all areas are touched.. Furthermore, the male part should be much thinner stock!
Thanks Osamah
You sure made it look easy! Great video!
great job, thank you.
Thank you for posting very nice project ideas.
Cheers on your first only inlay
Thank you for a great video! Very informative
Thanks it help me a lot.
This is my first inlay in some firewood.
Hedekys 2013 01 CNC INLAY
Watched your inlay bowl project. Really liked it. Nice use of an inlay and very impressive for a first attempt.
Thanks.
I sure miss your videos! They are always well thought out and most Americans like your accent! New Zealand, Right?
Wish this document was still available
Try this and see if it is what you are looking for.
Cheers Peter
forum.vectric.com/viewtopic.php?t=564
Frankmali17 - I know this is a bit of a late response, but for feeds and speeds, not sure what software you use, but mach3 has a feeds and speeds wizard that helps to very accurately calculate feeds and speeds, based on material, cutter chipload, cutter size, flute count of cutter, and spindle max rpm.
Hi Peter
can you please tell me are you happy with the remote control appearing at 2.05 ?
I want to buy one and am divided between that model and the wireless one with jog wheel, as the one with jog wheel is much more expensive I'm wondering if the wheel is worth it ?
thank you
Personally I like it and it has worked well for me. Others have had problems with the USB cable. Mine worked well for about 3 years before the cable gave out. I just made a new one and it works well again. Others have had cable issues within weeks of receiving the pendant but it is possible that these issues have been resolved in the 3 years since I bought mine. I hope it has because I find it to be a very good pendant.
Here is a video I did which covers the pendant
ua-cam.com/video/Mnum5PgvHWw/v-deo.html
The Pendant was about $40 USD when I bought mine which was the cheapest one I could find.
Never having had a jog wheel I don't know if it is good or not.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Peter
How did you get the two-tone color? The wood doesn't look that different when you started?
Great video. Thanks!
One is pine and the other is Rimu. Linseed oil brings out the difference.
Cheers
Peter
Hello Peter, it appears the document link is no longer active. That would have been a good document to have.
Hi, I found the document at the following address;
www.vectric.org/video/aspire4-vcp7/2d-25d-techniques/D07/VCarve_Inlay_Description_and_Procedure.pdf
I read the Vectric instructions and was wondering something.. Why did they say "For reasons that are rather complicated, it is important to use a bit whose height is at least as high as the deepest cut you will be making."? I'd love to know the complicated reason...
+Nolan Gaudreau
Your guess is as good as mine but here is my best guess anyway..
VCarve Pro can do a VCarve deeper than the flutes of the cutter by doing passes at increasing depths.
The one thing I have found when doing this is if the cutter angle is not exact then the bevel of the Vcarve will have ridges in it. This I imagine will make trying to get the matching part which will also have ridges on it fit correctly a bit of a mission.
Cheers
Peter
+CNCnutz (Peter Passuello) Hmm Interesting thought. I guess I'll have to experiment with it a little bit. Thanks!
Nice inlay, very well explained. Could you share where you got the cutter holder. Does it fit a 1/4 inch collet and hold 1/8 inch cutters?
Hi Kenneth,
The cutter holder is something I turned up on my lathe.
It fits my 1/4" collet and a the 1/8" Vbit goes into it.
I have just made some new collets on the lathe for the router to hold the Vbits directly so don't need an adapter now.
If you are looking for a commercially made adapter have a look here. If I recall correctly I payed $20 for 5 adapters so shop around you might be able to do better.
www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-power-collet-chuck-adapter-for-tools-bits-and-cnc-router-parts-1-4-to-1-8-/201192138166?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item2ed7fc65b6
I have tried one on my 1/8th Vbits and they work well for me. I haven't tried them with a spiral cutter as mine are 3mm not 1/8th so the adapter will not hold them to try.
Cheers
Peter
Great vid. Thanks, Peter. wondering if you've ever used a milling bit on your router to remove the excess inlay material after curing?
+southerncrosssmoker
No I haven't but it would be a good way for leveling the surface rather than sanding.
Cheers
Peter
Thanks for another informative video. I found a forum where Paul discussed his method but could not find the pdf you referred to. Is there another link that would take me there? THX.
www.vectric.org/video/aspire4-vcp7/2d-25d-techniques/D07/VCarve_Inlay_Description_and_Procedure.pdf
Great Idea !
Thank you for your videos,
i'm in the US and recently I built my first CNC machine.
Maybe you can share your experience and insight.
What cutter RPM / cutting(moving) speed did you use...
It sounds like quite low RPM...
Is there a guide online somewhere that you know off, that would be good reading and education on setting cutting speeds?
thank you in advance and great job on the videos.
Nice video, could you tell me where is the procedure document you talking in beginning.
Hi Yoann,
Follow the link posted in above.
forum.vectric.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=564
Look at the first post and at the bottom below the photo of the hummingbird inlay look for a link called VCarve_Inlay_Description_and Proceedure.pdf
Click on it and away you go.
Don't feel too bad about not being able to find it. It took me a minute or two to find it myself when I had a look today.
It doesn't stand out too well.
Cheers
Peter
Where did you get that endmill collet holder attachment at 11:00? Could be super useful!
Hi Tyler,
The endmill holder is something I made up at home on the lathe.
It is very good for holding engraving bits but will not hold endmills. An up or down cutting bit will push itself into or pull itself out of the holder because it is only held by grub screws which cannot grip the bit properly.
For an engraving bit it is no problem.
Cheers
Peter
Your comments say that you have to use VCarvePro to do this. Wouldn't
VCarve Desktop work? Is there a feature missing from it that you need?
+Scott House
I'm not familiar with the desktop version of VCarve but if it does VCarving then I see no reason why it won't work.
main issue is you are using an engraving bit no a purpose built v-carve bit ....
Nice project sir
Thanks.
could you just but a flattening bit in cnc and flatten it all out in 1 shot?
Yes you can.
Just use the "Use Falt Area Clearance tool" to clear the excess material.
Cheers
Peter
If you have a lot of flat areas it will take some time to cut as the end of the vcarve bit is very small, you might be better off changing to a dedicated end mill.
The link to the documentation does not work.
Vectric have changed around their website. Try this address.
forum.vectric.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=564&hilit=Vinlay
where to find interesting projects on the internet?
Love.
Makes the world go around.
Or is that money?
Cheers Peter
Thanks!!!
can u used the v for metal ?
I can't see why the process wouldn't work for metal though I couldn't do it on my machine.
Your first trick will be to find a V cutter for a mill.
Cheers
Peter
nice tutorial...i sub.
Square dancing old fashion
In all honesty this doesn't work for me... The only way I could get the inlay to fit properly on my 20 Degree cutter is to make the START depth on the male exactly the same as the flat depth on the female. I then set the flat depth on the male to something like 0.1mm. If you think of it logically it is round about the same thing...
+Wonder Around
Something doesn't sound right. When the 2 parts are put together you should have a gap between the 2 parts.
The cutter angle will have no effect on the project as a whole with respect to whether the method works or not. The flat depth should be 3mm or so.
Without being able to see what you are doing and the results you are getting it is almost impossible to work out what is going on. The document I mentioned at the beginning of the video is your best bet for figuring out what is going wrong. The method is sound and works with the only issue I had was to do with getting a decent cut because of a blunt cutter.
I am happy to try and help you figure out what is going wrong if you like.
You can email me cncnutz65@gmail.com and we can go from there.
Cheers
Peter
Hi, I know it's been almost a year, but did you end up solving the problem? My male inlay part ended up being bigger than the female gap by using this method -- unless I did something grossly wrong.
Understanding inlays or the software settings is key. I got mine solved by taking a day to "play" on a systematic approach with inlays in scrap wood or in the case of female pocket in MDF. and the male out of any cheap offcuts (MDF male breaks normally) The function in itself is quite simple but there are a few options like start depths/flat depth that can be confusing in the beginning or for me at least when I started to do inlays for the first time. I don't know much to what you did but it sounds to me as if your male portion starts to cut too low (for a lack of better description) and then it is too big. You have to keep one variable static like the pocket (female) which is the size you want your end product to be and then systematically work on settings on the male portion/inlay (one by one) and test the inlay after each cut. This way you will know the effect of each setting but also learn how the depths can influence each other. One thing I did find extremely helpful in the day I spent getting to understand it was how I can make a very fine inlay work so that you have enough meat for a proper inlay in the finer detail leaving room/meat for sanding/finishing. This was discovered actually by accident. I also cut each and every try I made with the bandsaw in half so I could see and measure how well the inlay sat in the pocket. It might sound like a waste of time but I promise you it is so worth it... it was actually during one of these dissections on the bandsaw that I found the answer to fine inlays and also the initial question I asked...
Ok, I'll just have to put some time and elbow grease into it. See, I thought I followed the directions in the document he referenced carefully, but I still ended up with things that don't quite work. I'll tinker and see where it takes me. In one vectric video I watched they cut both parts out of the inlay from the same piece of stock. While you'd never do that practically, it was cool to see both male and female parts side-by-side in software, made it easier to judge whether things would fit in the final product.
It sounds like you are not setting your start depth and pucket flat depth properly when you are machining the male part of the inlay.
If you are really stuck you can email me and i will have a look at the files to see if I can see what is wrong. it is probably one of those things that is blinding obvious but because you have spent so much time looking at it, you can't see it. I've been down that road quite a few times and it always leaves me thinking, how did I not see that.
Cheers
Peter
Thanks for sharing. It is true V Carve inlay produces sharper corner compared to traditional (straight bit) inlay, but you forgot mention that V Carve inlay cannot create design which combines different wood species adjacent to each other such as this one (ua-cam.com/video/nTaQC7lZHTI/v-deo.html). So, traditional inlay with straight CNC bit can achieve stunning results where V Carve inlay cannot. What we need is a 1/16 straight router bit for smaller detailed sharp corner projects if there is such a bit. Traditional inlay is here to stay just because of this huge advantage over V Carve inlay.
+Vincent Doan
Hi Vincent, I only just spotted this comment and have just watched your video on Laser Marquetry. I am very jealous.
Cheers
Peter
Vincent, I'm not sure this is true. It would require a great deal of repeatability, but you could process the base piece as many times as you wanted if you could only keep the zero point the same each time. It would look like this:
Run each inlay first in different woods.
Run the base piece for wood #1, glue in inlay 1. Remove the excess overhead from the inlay.
Run the base piece for wood #2, perhaps even cutting through wood #1 in some places. Glue inlay 2, remove excess.
Repeat.
The problem with this technique is its pretty much useless unless you have a very powerful motor. The need to set the Vcarve to a start depth means you cant control pass depth, so a 3.2 mm carve plue the 1mm backing gives you a 4.2 mm plunge carve which will cripple anything except a very powerful motor. You arent going to do this on most hobby machines, believe me ive tried. It looks nice but in the end its just not workable at all for anything but high end machines.
You can VCarve in multiple levels so if your machine can only work in 1mm at a time then it will still work.
Cheers Peter
Thanks! Inlays are no longer magic to me.
It is always the way.
As soon as you see how is is done the magic is gone.
Now you will need to preform the inlay trick yourself and amaze those about you.
cheers
Peter
Sorry, mate, no hard feelings, but I don't understand where is the point in this job. I can't see any skill here. CNC machine is doing all job and all other is the first grade school lection.
No worries at all, I do understand what you are saying. I does look easy and it looks like I am just along for the ride.
The skill in this job was done long before the wood was even mounted on the table.
The machines mecanicals were built by hand in my workshop. The motors and electrical were then installed. Many hours of learning were undertaken in the workshop understanding the machine and how to use. CAD and CAM software had to be learned as well as the technique required for this particular process. Each and every job requires time spent in preparation deciding how exactly to do the job and creating the required files.
Only then is wood put on the table and the button pressed. It just looks so easy like the many infomercials we see on TV. Everything is great until you buy the dam product and try to reproduce the results. Only then do you discover that it takes more then the press of a button to do things. Sometimes hours are spent designing and perfecting that design because this machine is just as dumb as the rest of the machines ion my workshop, and in some respects even more useless.
I have nothing but respect for those who take a hammer and chisel and do inlays by hand. Some use hand tools over power, but I prefer to use power tools personally. I suspect there are very few that shun power tools when give the choice.
To me it is all about the results and it is better to spend the day building something, even if the machine does most of the hard work, than to sit about doing nothing.
I would be impressed to find any first grader who could operate such a machine to be honest. I would foresee broken cutters a gouged table and destroyed wood. Probably a sizable pool of blood for good measure.
Again I take no offence at your comment and understand where you are coming from.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.
Cheers
Peter
Your channel is great and now I get the point. Ok, here in Croatia - CNC and Cad is like ''must have and know'' in school, so I did not understand the story. Great. Anyway, thank you.
Davor Kavelj No worries. It sounds great that CAD and CNC are taught in Croatian Schools. When I was at school CAD was done with pencil and paper and CNC was unknown. I suspect that this is probably still true in New Zealand schools though I could be wrong. There are definately no CNC machines in schools around here but there should be.
Cheers
Peter