WHEN I SAID 40 DEGREE ANGLE I MEANT 80 DEGREE ANGLE. STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN IS 90 DEGREES AND THE ANGLE WAS SLIGHTLY LOWER THAN THAT ON THE ONE WITH THE BAD EDGE ANGLES.
Ladies and gentlemen. Wanna know why knife company’s got better n better the past couple of years? Neeves knives for one. A channel that brought depth to the game. That educated fellas like me that had left knives in my 20s to make bank. And once I could breath I tip toed back. And Neeves did the teach. 3rd year in…And I bore witness. Ipso Facto, Truth. And we are better for it. Thanks
This is a great video bud, very educational to those new to topics like heat treatments. I appreciate that you say when you dont know something and dont just make shit up like a lot of guys. Its no BS and its appreciated. Keep it up Neeves !
Great vid on what a burnt edge is and how to get rid of it. A stone sharpened edge will always be better quality over a belt edge and that edge will last longer as well. Cold Steel has some inexpensive ones and Condor id say is a step above them when it comes to machetes at least. You definatly get what you pay for sometimes but if your only using it once every six months i can see why some would go the cheapest route possible. Personally i am of the mindset of buy once cry once when it comes to tools. Thanks for the great vid Jerad and keep making sharp things fun and enjoyable.
I wonder what your neighbors think about the crazy knife dude next door, always chopping shit and blowing up fruit with obscure deadly ass knives? 😂 Not to mention the packages...i get a freakish amount of packages, so i can only imagine what it looks like on your porch every day lol.
Thanks for the video Jerad! Those close up shots you have where we can see the edge through the jeweler's loupe view are invaluable. How common do you think burnt edges are nowadays? At what price point can a buyer expect the edge to not be a rush job burnt edge? And tool steel they have recently started using in some katanas. Its a very hard composition, so lots of edge retention but not as much flex. So you might see some cracks and chips if you hit it into hard wood but it should also make really clean and defined cuts. Looking forward to the follow up!
The old guys that taught me to sharpen machetes and bush axes called the initial sharpening "getting the jaws off" meaning reprofile the edge with a 12" flat file. Those knives would shave after they got through. I find the Gerber or Cold Steel machetes to be the best inexpensive ones.
Interesting video, So Thanks for that. I actually had to dig into one of my totes to see if I have one of those Barebones Japanese Nata's. I do. I'm pretty sure I got it from a Bespoke $50 monthly box. I've had it a few years now and never touched it. It has a fairly respectable bevel and edge on it. The steel is 3CR13 stainless steel. A reasonably decent budget steel with 11% chromium.
Loved this review. That Barebones Nata Tool is kinda pricey for what it is. Have you had a chance to check out Silky Nata Tool? The guys at Dutch Bushcraft compared the Silky Nata Tool with a custom made chopper (forget the maker, but it was a pricey machete/chopper) and the Silky chopped almost as well as the custom (but costing way less...around 100$).
Good video, Jerad. I own several machetes. Couple of my favorites are from the Philippines made from old leaf springs really well done. They will last several lifetimes. A couple others are from makers like CRKT and Kershaw decent quality and steel but I do have some crap that I purchased at places like Walmart that are real fecal matter. So bad in fact that I wouldn't even give them away unless it was to my enemy. Thanks for what you do.
Thank you Jared I didn't know any of that, the square fracturing of the metal along the edge, I wonder if that is because when it is over heated therre is a conversion back to martensite, which we know is super hard and thus prone to fracture
Got myself a $5 jammie from Walmart. Was dull so I put it on my bench sander. Sharpened up nice. Works great. I'm done I can just throw it in the garbage.😄
I have a great custom chopper made from nitro-v at 61hrc. It's my own design and a maker made it for me for around $200 which is nuts for a 12" chopper. It cut twice as much as a Shrade and Cold Steel choppers and they dulled and chipped while mine was still cutting newsprint. Let me know if you want to check it out.
Custom knives are so much better quality and value than nicer factory knives. Sure, a mora or opinel is a good value but if you want something nice.. get a custom from someone that knows what they're doing. A heat treat furnace is a must.
@@mikafoxx2717 exactly. You can get a knife exactly the way you want it (if the maker is good enough), with amazing fit and finish and designed just for you. The performance will be better and usually they're ground thinner (not always, depending on the knife) so they cut better. My Assassin's Knives Argo in m398 at 64hrc (0.007 bte) and Biruykov in s125v at 64-65hrc are cutting beasts.
@@MFD00MTR33 WOW. For sure. I've had quite a few production knives that are pretty thin, but that's usually scandi at some 11 degrees per side. I usually grind my primaries very thin, probably less than 15 DPS compared to the scandi angle I hold. Nowhere near as thin behind the edge though, I'm not patient enough to do that on the 400 grit. I use tough steels like 14c26n and nitro-V so they certainly never chip on me, and I find they hold a razor edge better for ultimate slicing. I also have basic Hitachi sk85 and xc90.
@@mikafoxx2717 I really like steels like Aeb-l and 14c28n because they have high edge stability. You can do 10 DPS or even a bit lower and they'll be able to support it if heat treated properly. I have some custom kitchen knives in them. My masterpiece is a paring knife in Aeb-l at 63hrc. It's 0.048" stock and probably 0.001" -0.002" bte. It's a FFG with a slight convex from the platten and it was ground to a full zero and just has a microbevel for its edge. I think I have it at 14-15 DPS. Nothing cuts like it, even when it's really dull, it still cuts cardboard better than most knives just on geometry alone. And it can still cut most fruits and vegetables except for tomatoes or stuff like it with skin that needs a sharp edge.
When you have a damaged edge (from factory or from use) you shouldn't just sharpen over it. You should cut away the damage by running the edge perpendicular to the stone so you cut the damaged weaker part of. Think of it like breaking a soda can tab by bending it until it breaks and now it's weaker, same thing with damaged edges. Plus you get into quality steel faster and it's easier to sharpen since you have a fresh new starting point.
great video on bad heat treatment and very informative. but if your machete can cut paper its probably not going to do machete things for very long before you have to reprofile it... i think the edge on the 10 dollar machete was probably just fine the way it was. they probably had two edges on purpose. i could be completely wrong tho
If anyone is curious, Condor is a reputable machete maker. Not too expensive neither. You can get a decent chopper for $70 and a few models can run up to about $200 if you really want to splurge on a larger blade. But they are probably the best machete company under $100.
As someone who uses machetes on a daily basis, you can spend ten dollars to 30 dollars on a really good useful machete. Even a cheaper 70 dollar one from a good company really isn't necessary. I used my cold steel one for 13 years until I dropped it into a storm structure. 😬
If you haven't already, Condor is a great company for mid range $ machete/parang. Everything I've used has been impressive the 1095/1075 heat treatment is awesome, and their leather sheaths are high quality. Worth a look guys..
In Germany you can buy machetes from Norma in the supermarket that have a blade that allows you to shave right from the start and still holds the edge despite hard use 🎉
And that's exactly why my current favorite EDC is a victorinox huntsman, a victorinox SD on the keychain and a Cold Steel Voyager Vaquero XL serrated in the waistband 😅
I expect everything to be dull out of the box at this point. Never had a sharp blade from the factory hell some had no edge at all. From cheap stuff sub 100 from no name to spyderco cold steel civivi ect to high end 400 plus ferrum forge and spycerco , japanese kitchen knives fujiwara and others.
Dude! I play you at double speed sometimes like a knife im not into or im short on time, but you sound hilarious when i do it. But at 10x speed like you did, was way overkill 😂 and that was fucked. Burr flakes???
Tramontina does an ok job, but you're going to have to reprofile it and the handle. Like 10 - 20 bucks. Thais make good machetes as well. Reasonable prices
I have decades of sharpening experience and I just thought that's how all 1095 / 1055 type steels acted, especially the ones with softer heat treats like machetes. NESCO, Old Hickory, Ka-Bar, Camillus, various others. It's like I just know I'll be dealing with long flappy flakes anytime someone hands me a well patinaed carbon steel blade haha. Perhaps I need to get my hands on an Esee or something to see if there's a difference.
I sharpen a lot of steels daily, I rarely see this unless it's super soft, burnt, etc.. I'm going to do some more thorough testing, I'm not a 100% just yet and after Sharpening it might get into good steel, also I think these were just a no name stainless steel to my knowledge
@@NeevesKnives Gotcha. It'll be interesting to see some more of your results on this. One thing is, with machetes, heavy choppers, and hatchets I'm usually quickly whacking off a bunch with a belt grinder - 80 then 180 grit- before going to the stone. Have to do that to get down to useful edge worthy steel (landscapers and military personnel are harsh on blades haha). Maybe I'm the one burning the steel even though it doesn't feel too hot to the touch. Thanks for all you do Neeves! Good lil chat!
@@chevyman6999 thats funny because that was my exact plan as well lol, i might just use the belt sharpener but i was thinking about doing the belt then stones, just to reprofile faster because they can be a nightmare otherwise, you just want to make sure you keep it cool, dont let the edge heat up, dip in water or use slow belt and touch it
@@NeevesKnives HA! That is funny! Belts save a lot of time and money for sure. Diamonds are too expensive to waste reprofiling large budget blades. I do keep it cool. The trick is to move fast, 3-5 inches per second. "Stick it and run". Heat ruins blades and destroys belts. Good luck bro. I'm curious to see what happens. I'll be tuning in, I've seen all of your vids. Keep up the good work!
I've seen that flake/powder before when trying to sharpen a couple knives. In my case it was where the rest of the blade was making a good burr, but in smaller areas it was doing the flaking/peeling mess or just turned to powder. Nice educational video. On the $13.99 knife, it seems the best part of that purchase was the sheath.
@@NeevesKnives You don't have anything to be sorry for! I was just genuinely curious what you had to say during that part and wanted other people to know if they were also wondering
Are you going to sharpen this with a stone , fixed or Ken onion belt ? Maybe you ll find good steel under there hopefully .oh it’s $10 then no , lol 😂. Go Jared 👍
WHEN I SAID 40 DEGREE ANGLE I MEANT 80 DEGREE ANGLE. STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN IS 90 DEGREES AND THE ANGLE WAS SLIGHTLY LOWER THAN THAT ON THE ONE WITH THE BAD EDGE ANGLES.
Ladies and gentlemen. Wanna know why knife company’s got better n better the past couple of years? Neeves knives for one. A channel that brought depth to the game. That educated fellas like me that had left knives in my 20s to make bank. And once I could breath I tip toed back. And Neeves did the teach. 3rd year in…And I bore witness. Ipso Facto, Truth. And we are better for it. Thanks
Thanks for the education Jerad!
Thanks for all the information Jared.
I guess this explains why when I see online from the gangs and cartels chopping up "stuff" they have so much trouble doing it.
This is a great video bud, very educational to those new to topics like heat treatments. I appreciate that you say when you dont know something and dont just make shit up like a lot of guys. Its no BS and its appreciated. Keep it up Neeves !
5:02 even the rubber handle has a burnt edge burr hanging out.
Ya spend little of nothin, ya get little of nothin.
YOU GOT IT
Great vid on what a burnt edge is and how to get rid of it. A stone sharpened edge will always be better quality over a belt edge and that edge will last longer as well. Cold Steel has some inexpensive ones and Condor id say is a step above them when it comes to machetes at least. You definatly get what you pay for sometimes but if your only using it once every six months i can see why some would go the cheapest route possible. Personally i am of the mindset of buy once cry once when it comes to tools. Thanks for the great vid Jerad and keep making sharp things fun and enjoyable.
I wonder what your neighbors think about the crazy knife dude next door, always chopping shit and blowing up fruit with obscure deadly ass knives? 😂
Not to mention the packages...i get a freakish amount of packages, so i can only imagine what it looks like on your porch every day lol.
Thanks for the video Jerad! Those close up shots you have where we can see the edge through the jeweler's loupe view are invaluable. How common do you think burnt edges are nowadays? At what price point can a buyer expect the edge to not be a rush job burnt edge?
And tool steel they have recently started using in some katanas. Its a very hard composition, so lots of edge retention but not as much flex. So you might see some cracks and chips if you hit it into hard wood but it should also make really clean and defined cuts. Looking forward to the follow up!
The old guys that taught me to sharpen machetes and bush axes called the initial sharpening "getting the jaws off" meaning reprofile the edge with a 12" flat file. Those knives would shave after they got through. I find the Gerber or Cold Steel machetes to be the best inexpensive ones.
Thanks for all the hard work you put it in your videos, you are a great source of information.
Interesting video, So Thanks for that. I actually had to dig into one of my totes to see if I have one of those Barebones Japanese Nata's. I do. I'm pretty sure I got it from a Bespoke $50 monthly box. I've had it a few years now and never touched it. It has a fairly respectable bevel and edge on it. The steel is 3CR13 stainless steel. A reasonably decent budget steel with 11% chromium.
Me too. I haven’t used it too much but it’s good for stripping twigs from a branch.
I’ve used it to cut up watermelon haha
We love you for being such a steel nerd!
I’ve seen that on a Case stainless steel knife before. Thanks for the video.
Loved this review. That Barebones Nata Tool is kinda pricey for what it is. Have you had a chance to check out Silky Nata Tool? The guys at Dutch Bushcraft compared the Silky Nata Tool with a custom made chopper (forget the maker, but it was a pricey machete/chopper) and the Silky chopped almost as well as the custom (but costing way less...around 100$).
Nice video
Condor does a great job on such blades at a reasonable price.
Great video
Good video, Jerad. I own several machetes. Couple of my favorites are from the Philippines made from old leaf springs really well done. They will last several lifetimes. A couple others are from makers like CRKT and Kershaw decent quality and steel but I do have some crap that I purchased at places like Walmart that are real fecal matter. So bad in fact that I wouldn't even give them away unless it was to my enemy. Thanks for what you do.
We need to see how kukri's are as choppers
That ten dollar machete blade looks like when I first started learning how to sharpen 😂.
😆 🤣 same
Thank you Jared I didn't know any of that, the square fracturing of the metal along the edge, I wonder if that is because when it is over heated therre is a conversion back to martensite, which we know is super hard and thus prone to fracture
I have a ZT0562 in Elmax one of the first batches that did that to me. I thought I was doing something wrong when I was sharpening.
Got myself a $5 jammie from Walmart. Was dull so I put it on my bench sander. Sharpened up nice. Works great. I'm done I can just throw it in the garbage.😄
Lol
I have a great custom chopper made from nitro-v at 61hrc. It's my own design and a maker made it for me for around $200 which is nuts for a 12" chopper. It cut twice as much as a Shrade and Cold Steel choppers and they dulled and chipped while mine was still cutting newsprint. Let me know if you want to check it out.
Custom knives are so much better quality and value than nicer factory knives. Sure, a mora or opinel is a good value but if you want something nice.. get a custom from someone that knows what they're doing. A heat treat furnace is a must.
@@mikafoxx2717 exactly. You can get a knife exactly the way you want it (if the maker is good enough), with amazing fit and finish and designed just for you. The performance will be better and usually they're ground thinner (not always, depending on the knife) so they cut better. My Assassin's Knives Argo in m398 at 64hrc (0.007 bte) and Biruykov in s125v at 64-65hrc are cutting beasts.
@@MFD00MTR33 WOW. For sure. I've had quite a few production knives that are pretty thin, but that's usually scandi at some 11 degrees per side. I usually grind my primaries very thin, probably less than 15 DPS compared to the scandi angle I hold. Nowhere near as thin behind the edge though, I'm not patient enough to do that on the 400 grit. I use tough steels like 14c26n and nitro-V so they certainly never chip on me, and I find they hold a razor edge better for ultimate slicing. I also have basic Hitachi sk85 and xc90.
@@mikafoxx2717 I really like steels like Aeb-l and 14c28n because they have high edge stability. You can do 10 DPS or even a bit lower and they'll be able to support it if heat treated properly. I have some custom kitchen knives in them.
My masterpiece is a paring knife in Aeb-l at 63hrc. It's 0.048" stock and probably 0.001" -0.002" bte. It's a FFG with a slight convex from the platten and it was ground to a full zero and just has a microbevel for its edge. I think I have it at 14-15 DPS. Nothing cuts like it, even when it's really dull, it still cuts cardboard better than most knives just on geometry alone. And it can still cut most fruits and vegetables except for tomatoes or stuff like it with skin that needs a sharp edge.
When you have a damaged edge (from factory or from use) you shouldn't just sharpen over it. You should cut away the damage by running the edge perpendicular to the stone so you cut the damaged weaker part of. Think of it like breaking a soda can tab by bending it until it breaks and now it's weaker, same thing with damaged edges. Plus you get into quality steel faster and it's easier to sharpen since you have a fresh new starting point.
So I've gotten a couple of the Ontario knife co 12 inch in 1095 for under $20 & has held up great
Awesome I should try some of them out
👊
great video on bad heat treatment and very informative. but if your machete can cut paper its probably not going to do machete things for very long before you have to reprofile it... i think the edge on the 10 dollar machete was probably just fine the way it was. they probably had two edges on purpose. i could be completely wrong tho
I just assume the bevel is crap on a machete and start from there.
Wow I don’t know if have ever seen something sharpened that bad from side to side before.
If anyone is curious, Condor is a reputable machete maker. Not too expensive neither. You can get a decent chopper for $70 and a few models can run up to about $200 if you really want to splurge on a larger blade. But they are probably the best machete company under $100.
Yup
As someone who uses machetes on a daily basis, you can spend ten dollars to 30 dollars on a really good useful machete. Even a cheaper 70 dollar one from a good company really isn't necessary. I used my cold steel one for 13 years until I dropped it into a storm structure. 😬
Tops knives are notorious for burnt edges
I am a fan of the Ka-Bar Kuk machete!!! It's a front heavy bitch with a decent edge for roughly $75.
A burnt edge will typically have some coloration in my experience. I think it’s just a bad heat but I’m certainly no expert. Great video either way.
Sometimes it does, and this one definitely did, orange and brown is a good indicator that it's burnt but that doesn't mean it's not if it doesn't
@@NeevesKnivesthe tip can get overheated then shave off all the overheated colour steel.. still ruined temper
SLD MAGIC!
If you haven't already, Condor is a great company for mid range $ machete/parang. Everything I've used has been impressive the 1095/1075 heat treatment is awesome, and their leather sheaths are high quality. Worth a look guys..
Machetes do not come sharp generally. They expect user to put the edge on it for your use case.
In Germany you can buy machetes from Norma in the supermarket that have a blade that allows you to shave right from the start and still holds the edge despite hard use 🎉
Very popular with our Muslim fellow citizens at the moment 😡🇩🇪🕊👊
And that's exactly why my current favorite EDC is a victorinox huntsman, a victorinox SD on the keychain and a Cold Steel Voyager Vaquero XL serrated in the waistband 😅
I expect everything to be dull out of the box at this point. Never had a sharp blade from the factory hell some had no edge at all. From cheap stuff sub 100 from no name to spyderco cold steel civivi ect to high end 400 plus ferrum forge and spycerco , japanese kitchen knives fujiwara and others.
Dude! I play you at double speed sometimes like a knife im not into or im short on time, but you sound hilarious when i do it. But at 10x speed like you did, was way overkill 😂 and that was fucked. Burr flakes???
Tramontina does an ok job, but you're going to have to reprofile it and the handle. Like 10 - 20 bucks. Thais make good machetes as well. Reasonable prices
I have decades of sharpening experience and I just thought that's how all 1095 / 1055 type steels acted, especially the ones with softer heat treats like machetes. NESCO, Old Hickory, Ka-Bar, Camillus, various others. It's like I just know I'll be dealing with long flappy flakes anytime someone hands me a well patinaed carbon steel blade haha. Perhaps I need to get my hands on an Esee or something to see if there's a difference.
I sharpen a lot of steels daily, I rarely see this unless it's super soft, burnt, etc.. I'm going to do some more thorough testing, I'm not a 100% just yet and after Sharpening it might get into good steel, also I think these were just a no name stainless steel to my knowledge
@@NeevesKnives Gotcha. It'll be interesting to see some more of your results on this. One thing is, with machetes, heavy choppers, and hatchets I'm usually quickly whacking off a bunch with a belt grinder - 80 then 180 grit- before going to the stone. Have to do that to get down to useful edge worthy steel (landscapers and military personnel are harsh on blades haha). Maybe I'm the one burning the steel even though it doesn't feel too hot to the touch.
Thanks for all you do Neeves! Good lil chat!
@@chevyman6999 thats funny because that was my exact plan as well lol, i might just use the belt sharpener but i was thinking about doing the belt then stones, just to reprofile faster because they can be a nightmare otherwise, you just want to make sure you keep it cool, dont let the edge heat up, dip in water or use slow belt and touch it
@@NeevesKnives HA! That is funny! Belts save a lot of time and money for sure. Diamonds are too expensive to waste reprofiling large budget blades. I do keep it cool. The trick is to move fast, 3-5 inches per second. "Stick it and run". Heat ruins blades and destroys belts. Good luck bro. I'm curious to see what happens. I'll be tuning in, I've seen all of your vids. Keep up the good work!
How does it affect performance? Would you show a before and after you resharpened it chopping test?
Yup
@@NeevesKnives Thanks, I appreciate it.
Any thoughts on which steel lasts longer on steel lock inserts?
No way id attempt too sharpen one of those turds on a stone lol
I've seen that flake/powder before when trying to sharpen a couple knives. In my case it was where the rest of the blade was making a good burr, but in smaller areas it was doing the flaking/peeling mess or just turned to powder. Nice educational video. On the $13.99 knife, it seems the best part of that purchase was the sheath.
I think they don't need to be razors sharp to chop
What does it mean when the bur feels gummy?
It depends but usually it means it's on the softer side, you want a burr to feel hard and crispy, with very lite effort to break off
If you want to hear what he's saying during the sped up part, put the vid on 25 percent speed
I'm sorry
@@NeevesKnives You don't have anything to be sorry for! I was just genuinely curious what you had to say during that part and wanted other people to know if they were also wondering
If your knife came in a blister package, chances are it's sharpened scrap.
😆 🤣
PizzA
Are you going to sharpen this with a stone , fixed or Ken onion belt ? Maybe you ll find good steel under there hopefully .oh it’s $10 then no , lol 😂. Go Jared 👍
The worst edges ever😂
This video was pointless it seems