How To Set Ignition Timing On Vintage Ski Doo Rotax Engine
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- Today I am setting the breaker points ignition timing on a vintage Ski Doo Rotax Engine. I show you how to make an inexpensive timing light and also how to hook it up and use it.
Very well explained. You know your stuff. Thank you for passing it on. Info like this may not be easy to find, and having someone explain it is priceless.
Thank you David, I am glad you appreciate it. I tested it out in the machine today and it runs pretty good, no lack of power I'll say. Thanks again, you have a great evening. Cheers.
For some reason I’ve never been able to figure out points and timing. Maybe cause I’ve never been taught properly so I’m glad your doing these videos. Cheers from Missouri.
Hello Ketch....Point setting is very easy once you learn, it's just proper point gap setting and the correct time they open, and BOOM you got er. Thank you my friend. You have a great evening. Cheers.
Great job Cecil. Look forward to seeing it back in the machine and running.!
Cheers, Jeff.
Thanks Jeff. It's all back in and running great now...That should be tomorrows video here. You have a great day...Cheers.
Great video, finally someone who explains this process and fills in all the blanks. Two questions if I may, the light you use, is that just regular AC work light that you clipped off the plug and and spliced wires so it works with a battery, and when those marks align is that top dead center or a bit before? I have replaced may stator on the machine so maybe my etch lines are out of sync now and if so how would I sync them again? I do have a piston height gage tool but don't know what to calibrate it too if not original stator. Ie tdc, 20 degrees before, etc. Thanks!
Hey I just want to say this video helped me fixed my sled, i believe it was the placement of the cup that you put on before you put the magneto on, somehow was out of position and wouldnt spark, dont understand it but thank you thank you thank you!
Now this is exactly what I needed, I have two Polaris colts I’m trying to get started,
Hello, I am glad you are enjoying the video. Those little Polaris Colts were amazing machines...We had 250 singles and 340 twins growing up, they are hard to find now up here. Best of luck. Cheers.
Hey there Cecil, how's it going. I finally got the old machine running on two cylinders. Quite the tedious procedure getting the points set with the engine in the machine, but it's alive. After checking a half dozen old coils for resistance, if found one that was within spec, and it works. The other coil that was working all along, is an original Bombardier.
Would really like to see a Points to CDI Conversion for Skidoo Singles using the Nippon Denso Horse Shoe CDI.
Happy Thanksgiving Cecil and Heather, Cecil you do Amazing work I love how you can fix things when everyone else say it's broken you can fix it like brand new
Thank you Estella, we celebrated our Thanksgiving in October....But Happy Thanksgiving to you. Thank you, I just love working on junk is all. You have a great evening. Cheers.
Points timing on these is a real pain. Figure 2 to 3 hours to get them dialed in. I have had a lot better results using the indirect timing gauge instead of using the plate, (which is not very accurate).The indirect gauge will give you much better results with a much smoother, and more responsive engine.
Very impressive Cecil 👍 👍
Thank you my friend. You have a great evening. Cheers.
very good info! I'm working on a 1980 Citation 377 and i dont have that cam looking device but from the comments I learned using a volt meter on continuity doesnt work... I'll be trying the light trick you explained at the end of the video! thank you. wish me luck, i'll need it.
I may have questions 😕
Update on the 377 citation… I had a 12v incandescent light bulb (obviously a standard 110/120v bulb wont work) and a 12v ice fishing flasher battery and it work perfectly. The fluke meter on continuity doesn’t work because there I always enough contact that it stays on. the light trick is the only way to go in my opinion.
I am trying to do this with a multi meter on a type 377 engine and when I put black lead to the engine to ground and red lead to the blue wire that goes to coil it should continuity when the points are open and closed. Is that normal? I thought I could listen for the beep on meter to check timing marks. But now I'm confused because it never stops making the sound indicating continuity while points open and close.
Hello Jay, yeah it may continue buzzing..the sound should change when the points open, I prefer a light though.
@@cecilsshadetreegarage7408 Thank for the response I did end up making a light with a small single AA battery it worked well. I see that it will always show continuity because of it being wired into to he magneto like it is. Also the kill switch had me thinking for a minute because it works by connecting both black wires from the points and the are grounding at opposite times.
I was doing the same! i'll be building a light set up based on this comment! thank you. I'm also working on a 377 and trying to figure this all out for the first time. lots to learn!
man ,that is a bad design, i don't think i have seen anything a difficult to do for something that is regular maintenance...thanks for sharing , i am picking one of these up today i think...Creator bless...doug (central kanada)
Awesome videos keep up the good work, I've learned so much!! I do have a question...I have a 76 olympique 340 (343) and with the key at the top the advance mechanism tab window is on the left side at about 10 o'clock and I also only see a T stamped into the flywheel which I am assuming is the mark to set the timing but I don't see any other marks besides that one and seems when that T lines up with the mark on the shroud the bottom set of points starts to open...could you shed some light on this setup and how it should be timed? Thanks
Good video thanks for sharing 👍
Thank you matthew. I am glad you enjoyed it. Thank you for watching and especially commenting and liking it. You have a great day my friend...Cheers.
...mornin' to you ,sled surgeon, great vid, have a good one...
Good morning Bob...Well thank you, the Dr is n the house lol. I am glad you enjoyed it.... How are you this fine snowy morning???
@@cecilsshadetreegarage7408 feelin' fine, -6 ,no snow on the ground and sunny.. a mild winter is good for us old guys..lol..
I am glad you are well...Hey our temp. is the same here, but we got hit with a big snow storm yesterday and last night. This means we should be hauling logs soon to continue building :-) Cheers. Yes I like a mild winter as well ( but not to mild ) lol.
@@cecilsshadetreegarage7408 glad you can haul logs for your build, watching you work outside makes me turn up the thermostat a few more degrees..lol..
Thanks Bob...Well to be honest with you I am just sitting on the couch relaxing myself, but now that the plow has just went by we can now clean the driveway and go check the mail...Then it's back to work lol...Cheers.
Use a ohm meter with a swing needle. You don't have to pull the flywheel, you work through the holes.
It's too hard to watch the OHM Meter needle and the lines on the block and flywheel at the same time..I find a light or a buzzer is way more accurate.
Will this work on any engine, my husband is trying to find out the timing- TDC for a 63 Ski doo, Rotax 247
There is a label on the top of the fan shroud with degree timing, what do we do with this ?
Hi Cecil. Great video tutorial. Your the Maaaaaan! Keep um comin. :-))
Hello Dave. Thank you, I am glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks and I shall keep the videos coming. Cheers.
Do those lines indicate top dead center? on the mag cylinder? I am working on a 69 Sea Doo. I can not find a service manual so I am trying to translate this to my machine. Sea Doo uses Ski-Doo ignition parts, but I do not have the marks on the case to use as a reference.
Hello, I'm rebuilding a 1981 Citation with the 377 and have watched this video a dozen times. I'm not sure if you can help me but I'm getting desperate. the tech manual shows the same procedure you're explaining but my flywheel doesn't have the little lever inside and the window cutouts are different. My light stays on during the full revolution but slightly dims but never goes out completely. any ideas what I'm missing? if you can help I'd greatly appreciate it! Dan
Hello yes that is normal for that engine..the light dims when the points are opening. Your advance will not be like this older one.
Can u show how you wired up ur light to the battery and coil please?! Haha
Hello, I did explain it in another video on here. Cheers!
hi cecil, i have a 1972 ski doo olympuqe 400 and i am having a spark issue but i am not sure what it is. i’ve got good coils, good wiring and the clutch side shock the crap outa you but no spark even with new plug , the owner before me had it running good but ended rebuilding the motor and since has not had spark as far as i know he had every piece apart including stator, i’m at the point where i have to set timing like this video but am not sure where to start. if you have any advice that would be nice
thanks, Ben from minnesota
You said it should dim when it lines up? what exactly is being lined up?
Hello Grant. the mark on the flywheel should line up with the mark on the top of the engine case...it should have a lightning bolt embossing on the engine casing. Cheers.
One time my 299cc Rotax started backwards, and ran good.
Hey I tried using this but light wouldn’t light up. Are you using 9 v light. My trouble light got normal 120v light bulb.
Thanks
Hello Gregory. You need to use a 12v trouble light for this. Cheers!
Thanks Cecil.
I've got a 76 Moto ski Nuvik with the 340 Rotax in it. I have had the engine in and out so many times, I can practically do it with my eyes closed. The only trouble is, it runs good for maybe an hour, then craps out on the mag side. Checked everything many times and can't find any broken or shorted wires. The weird thing is, if I pull the plug wire off and just let it sit on the plug without pushing it all the way on, it fires just fine. Got tired of fooling around with it for ten years, and just got itching to tackle her again today. More than likely needs oem condensers, do you know where to get them. The kimpex stuff is just not cutting it. When it's running fine, it's a lovely little sled.
Hello John. Yeah it sounds like a condenser problem...I am guessing you switched the coil wires to make sure it isn't an ignition coil? The other thing, when soldering in the new Condensers use a large soldering gun, a small one takes so long to melt the solder and therefore it heats up the inside of the condenser as well and cooks it...I always use Kimpex Condensers and have no problems..Cheers.
Yeah Cecil, I have tried just about everything, and I am pretty sure I used the same type of soldering gun that you have. Quite possible I may have heated them up to much. I'll order some new ones and give it a whirl. Thanks. I asked you the same question in your other video, so just ignore it, I guess.
Hello John. Yeah they don't take much heat to cook the inside of the condensers. Best of luck... Please let me know if this works for you. Cheers.
Will do. Thanks again.
If i understand correctly, you start by gapping the points, then you adjust with light using backplate?
Hello. Hes that is correct. Cheers.