Links you should check out► Veneering bag set: www.roarockit.com/tap-kits-bags-and-parts/ Glue roller: amzn.to/3kQWyZP When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us► Dura Grit Carbide Sanding Products: (Use Coupon Code: STUMPYNUBS): duragrit.com/home.php (We may get a small commission if you use one of the above affiliate links.) Subscribe (free) to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal e-Magazine► www.stumpynubs.com/
Looks like a band saw is in my future, veneers at the big orange/blue are hellishly expensive. Which combined with my lack of veneering experience, you get the idea.
I’ve been using a Roarocket TAP for about 4 or 5 years, and it works fantastically. Also, they are a great source for colored veneers (originally for skateboards, but I use them for tons of projects, especially turning projects)
@@gregm2181 Does anyone have any advice for how big the bag needs to be relative to the pieces to be veneered? That would help me choose the smallest kit size that would work for me. Thanks!
I had never seen those duragrit products before, with abrasives being a constant recurring cost in any shop finding products that last longer saves a ton of time and money over the long haul, hearing you say you still haven't worn out the first place nes you bought has piqued my interest so I'll definitely be picking some of them up and giving them a try in my projects.
I’ve become a huge fan of your channel. Every time I watch your videos a new aspect of woodworking opens up to me. The vacuum bag is a perfect example. When I see magazine articles or videos about this process I immediately assume “there goes another 500 bucks”. What you showed us looks do- able. Many thanks!
Great video! Enough in 5m to leave woodworkers wanting to learn more in a longer video; which… they may not have watched up front with so many things competing for their time. Much appreciated! Ready for the sequel.
Good tutorial! Not long ago I was building some nightstands using oak plywood for the carcass. Clumsy me dug the sander into the plywood’s veneer layer in a not so conspicuous spot. Veneer to the rescue! Made for a quick fix and it looks as though I didn’t screw it up…. Cheers!
Could you please make a comprehensive tutorial on how to properly resaw? You said there were a lot of tutorials, but I didn't found any in-depth or from experienced woodworker such as yourself. They all talk about pretty basic stuff: take bandsaw, put wood against your fence, go. That's pretty much it. I'm sure you have some know-hows and tips from experience to share. Thank you very much. With love from Russia.
Great timing. I'm preparing a 1948 singer sewing machine cabinet and the veneer needs replacing. I definitely feel more confident after watching this video!
That little vacuum bag is awesome! I've never tried to veneer a panel before because I haven't felt confident about my ability to apply even pressure and I've only ever seen large/expensive veneering bags/pumps.
This is very timely for me. I've been putting off a project that is repairing a damaged veneer. The original piece had a sopping wet towel left on the veneer surface overnight, which ruined the veneer. (Also ruined the particleboard under the veneer.) Fortunately, it's a slide-out shelf on pretty standard drawer hardware. So it's just the replacement of one piece without any significant disassembly. This info will help me tackle this job. And if I mess up, I can simply try it again. The materials involved aren't that significant. A perfect job for a first try at veneering.
Another great class at Stumpy School. This one is a big help to me. I have shied away from veneering because I did not feel capable, but with this demo, I will try it the next time a project that needs a veneer comes across my word table. Need to order the vacuum bag kit.
I'm going to be doing my first veneering soon. It'll be a jewelry box made of machiche. The top will be veneered using lacewood and zebra wood. Your ideas are well taken.
I was actually just planning on buying some veneer for the first time for my job. I take care of 90 apartments and a prior maintenance guy installed cheap kitchen cabinets that all exposed sides are press wood. Above the sink and stove is where I want to install to the sides of the cabinets to hide the press board, as well as urethane. I have no clue how I'll clamp it, but I'm sure I'll figure it out.
Ever since I learned about the technique, my favorite way to apply thin veneer, is to coat both surfaces with Titebond glue, let it dry (or slightly tacky), then use an iron to join the pieces, just as if it was coated with hot melt glue. No special tools (other than an iron), it's repositionable and non-toxic. Are you familiar with the technique and are you aware of any reason not to use it?
Thanks for the tutorial. Your videos are always educational and you are constantly presenting new tools and methods to accomplish a task. Take care and stay safe so that we can all benefit from your talents and content. Have a good one :D 🖐
I do veneers occasionally and have done some laminates as well. Two tricks I picked up: use gel contact cement (easier to spread evenly and doesn't run as much); rollers can apply enough pressure but edge of the soft wood (lightly curved by sanding) or plastic carpet tucker are better. Hope this helps. Also as a general comment contact cement is not that scarry - watch few videos and open the garage doors and you will do fine.
Never apply glue to the veneer. Only to the base wood. A nice guide anyway. :) Especially that simple vacuum bag. I created a 3 ton press for my inlays that works well on planar objects, but i will definitely get that bag so curved surfaces will be easier to press. Thanks!
Great video! Veneering can be very easy or as intricate and labor intensive as you like. I have done many cabinets with paper backed veneer all the way up to hammer veneering with traditional hide glue. All methods have their place and benefits
Stumpy, I have used vacuum pumps for about $100. They can draw down to about 27", and as a compressor, they put out around 40 PSI, varying with the different models.
Hey James, I'm working on starting a UA-cam channel and would like to ask your permission to reference you on occasion when giving advice and tips/tricks as you have a fantastic way of walking through processes and explaining how things work
have you ever tried a method of spreading yellow glue on both surfaces. Let it dry completely and then iron the veneer on? the iron melts the glue and the two surfaces that have been covered with glue become fused.
Great subject, and good tips. The sanding tools look intriguing as well, because using a rasp is not my best skill. Smaller tools to get into the corners look like they may help. How about a video on those tools (rasps, files, Dura grit. More on veneering would be welcome too.
I veneer every day at work, we use 3M Fastbond contact cement because it has low VOC’s. It’s great stuff and can be released with a household iron. The vast majority of our veneer is a paper backed, so it’s not as delicate.
When using contact cement, you may want to seal the glue surfaces with shellac first. This will limit water absorption and prevent the cement bleeding through to the finish side
I don’t like using contact cement for wood veneers…have had a couple of spectacular failures. Heat Lock glue works very well for me. It works similar to the wood glue method, with the addition of ironing it to set it.
Stumpy: Your videos are always interesting and feature methods that many of us may not be aware of. Today's video was sort of an exception since you missed one very easy way to apply veneer. You just coat both surfaces with wood glue (much as you do with contact cement) let the glue dry to touch, place it on the substrate and go over the veneer surface with a hot iron. (just use a domestic iron just like home makers have been using for years and don't use any steam) If you are applying veneer to solid wood it is important to veneer both sides to prevent warping caused by surface tension. Try the hot iron method you will find it is a cinch. David Adair
"Your videos are always interesting and feature methods that many of us may not be aware of. Today's video was sort of an exception..." How is this video an "exception" when it appears the method that I did not discuss was one you were already "aware of?" ;)
I have a question. I have veneered paper backed thin veneers as well as solid wood thin veneers with the iron on method. i would be curious to hear your take on that process. also what you might think about iron on with say 1/8" veneer. I have used both titebond 2 abd titebond 3 for this purpose. Also, my love goes out to those good titebond people and their support staff that offer such good advice to the average woodworker. The Franklin company I believe.
Great timing for this video for me. My next project involves veneering and I've been reading up on it. The info on glue choice was very informative, but I wonder, could/would you use epoxy for gluing veneers? Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for sharing. A question for experienced woodworkers. In your experience, do brad nails apply sufficient pressure to guarantee a good bond with wood glue between the veneer and the underlaying wood? I have actually had to do it, with good results, i think. But it's a technique that seems a bit sketchy to me. Let me preface by saying that i'm a carpenter by trade, i work mostly on site, not in a shop. A few times i had to apply AC grade 1/8in plywood to some surfaces that offer NO reasonable clamping options. I realize that there are some adhesives that don't require hours of clamping, much like the type James uses in the first section of the video. But i live in a the rural zone of a forgotten village in the least mentioned province of a developing nation at the edge of the known world. I really, really don't get to play with anything remotely fancy in terms of products. I have wood glue, epoxy, super glue (expensive as hell) and polyurethanic glue. That's it.
Ooh, could that vacuum bag system be used for stabilizing small pieces of wood? Or like, would it be practical or economical to try and rig up that valve to a big mason jar or something?
Too bad that veneers got a "bad rap" long ago. Sure, you can veneer some cheap crap and you end up with cheap crap that looks a little better. But, you can also get tremendous furniture and other items of the highest quality. Veneering gives you a way to use species of wood that would otherwise be too rare and/or too expensive to do with solid pieces. I have used the roarockit when I was starting out and eventually graduated to a big bag and pump that can hold a full size sheet of plywood. I loved your video, but you left out one key tidbit of information. Even though veneers are thin, the forces of wood expansion and contraction are very strong, so you need to veneer both sides of a project to prevent your piece from bending, curling or warping.
Thanks, I'm starting a project next week and was only going to veneer the visible side. Should the same veneer be applied to both sides or will any veneers do?
Could someone recommend an online supply house for veneers for the home woodworking market? I've been looking lately. Ty. And which product do you buy? Plus, I read that some buy a cheaper veneer for the back of veneered pieces. Any info for a beginner, thanks.
The Roarockit vacuum kit he talks about in the video excells at this... perfect for that kind of veneering... it was designed to do curved skateboard decks. There are other vids on using it on curved pieces.
If you don't want to invest in a ton of new equipment, hide glue hammer veneering is an inexpensive option used prior to the invention of PVA for centuries and requires no clamps. Hide glue is also non marking under finishes, so no more glue marks on your project.
@@bluewanderer9903try UA-cam search for Shannon Rogers channel or the old brown glue website. They both have instructional videos on using hide glue for veneering panels, marquetry, columns & curved edges.
Thought of a question. Many of the vacuum systems I have seen on other channels, stay attached, and monitors if vacuum goes down. At least this is what I thought. What do you do in the case of this system? Thanks.
A caul us a strip of wood, usually with a crowned edge. A platen is a panel that distributes pressure over an area rather than a corridor. At least that's my understanding. But these are merely semantics :)
Yes, I veneered a custom exterior door (stave core stiles) with 1/4" (resawn on table saw) 165 y.o. maple. Used Cascamite UF glue and rolled it out. Then Parallel bar clamps to lock it down for a day.
Those little bits you're gluing on look like commercial veneers, the very thin pieces around 1/32". I don't think I'd care to cut my own via any sort of resaw technique, as shown here. 1/4", 1/8" or even 1/16", maybe; but making the really thin ones calls for more specialized machinery and technique.
Links you should check out►
Veneering bag set: www.roarockit.com/tap-kits-bags-and-parts/
Glue roller: amzn.to/3kQWyZP
When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us►
Dura Grit Carbide Sanding Products: (Use Coupon Code: STUMPYNUBS): duragrit.com/home.php
(We may get a small commission if you use one of the above affiliate links.)
Subscribe (free) to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal e-Magazine► www.stumpynubs.com/
Looks like a band saw is in my future, veneers at the big orange/blue are hellishly expensive. Which combined with my lack of veneering experience, you get the idea.
I love the Roarockit kit. I had no luck with veneers before that. Now, it’s another arrow in the quiver.
Choosing a band saw: ua-cam.com/video/sUsKYElDKl0/v-deo.html
I’ve been using a Roarocket TAP for about 4 or 5 years, and it works fantastically. Also, they are a great source for colored veneers (originally for skateboards, but I use them for tons of projects, especially turning projects)
@@gregm2181 Does anyone have any advice for how big the bag needs to be relative to the pieces to be veneered? That would help me choose the smallest kit size that would work for me. Thanks!
I appreciate you showing us new skills and the fact you understand most of us are not master wood workers !! Thanks!
totally agree, its just one more skill like turning, sharpening, sanding, finishing and so on that every wood worker should know at a basic level
I had never seen those duragrit products before, with abrasives being a constant recurring cost in any shop finding products that last longer saves a ton of time and money over the long haul, hearing you say you still haven't worn out the first place nes you bought has piqued my interest so I'll definitely be picking some of them up and giving them a try in my projects.
The most consistent and best woodworking content out there/here 😁 Thanks
I’ve become a huge fan of your channel. Every time I watch your videos a new aspect of woodworking opens up to me. The vacuum bag is a perfect example. When I see magazine articles or videos about this process I immediately assume “there goes another 500 bucks”. What you showed us looks do- able. Many thanks!
Great video! Enough in 5m to leave woodworkers wanting to learn more in a longer video; which… they may not have watched up front with so many things competing for their time. Much appreciated! Ready for the sequel.
I Love Every Video You’ve Made. You Explain Them In Detail . Your Awesome.
Good tutorial! Not long ago I was building some nightstands using oak plywood for the carcass. Clumsy me dug the sander into the plywood’s veneer layer in a not so conspicuous spot. Veneer to the rescue! Made for a quick fix and it looks as though I didn’t screw it up…. Cheers!
Could you please make a comprehensive tutorial on how to properly resaw? You said there were a lot of tutorials, but I didn't found any in-depth or from experienced woodworker such as yourself. They all talk about pretty basic stuff: take bandsaw, put wood against your fence, go. That's pretty much it. I'm sure you have some know-hows and tips from experience to share. Thank you very much. With love from Russia.
Great timing. I'm preparing a 1948 singer sewing machine cabinet and the veneer needs replacing. I definitely feel more confident after watching this video!
This was perfect. I'll be veneering big leaf quilted maple to make cabinet doors. Thanks for the timely help.
I am a fan of hot hide glue and hammering. Also have used yellow wood glue and an iron. Very effective and very simple.
Thanks for the simple number 3. I've been wanting to try that for a while. Finally someone/you showed how easy that is using a vavume bag.
Thanks for sharing with us James, that’s a good looking door! 🙏🏻🙏🏻👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👋👋
That little vacuum bag is awesome! I've never tried to veneer a panel before because I haven't felt confident about my ability to apply even pressure and I've only ever seen large/expensive veneering bags/pumps.
Great video. I had dismissed veneers out of hand as being too difficult for a home shop but this has shown me I was wrong! Thanks!
This is very timely for me. I've been putting off a project that is repairing a damaged veneer. The original piece had a sopping wet towel left on the veneer surface overnight, which ruined the veneer. (Also ruined the particleboard under the veneer.) Fortunately, it's a slide-out shelf on pretty standard drawer hardware. So it's just the replacement of one piece without any significant disassembly. This info will help me tackle this job. And if I mess up, I can simply try it again. The materials involved aren't that significant. A perfect job for a first try at veneering.
Another great class at Stumpy School. This one is a big help to me. I have shied away from veneering because I did not feel capable, but with this demo, I will try it the next time a project that needs a veneer comes across my word table. Need to order the vacuum bag kit.
I'm going to be doing my first veneering soon. It'll be a jewelry box made of machiche. The top will be veneered using lacewood and zebra wood. Your ideas are well taken.
I was actually just planning on buying some veneer for the first time for my job. I take care of 90 apartments and a prior maintenance guy installed cheap kitchen cabinets that all exposed sides are press wood. Above the sink and stove is where I want to install to the sides of the cabinets to hide the press board, as well as urethane. I have no clue how I'll clamp it, but I'm sure I'll figure it out.
My favorite is dried yellow glue on both surfaces. Using yellow glue's weakness to heat, you simply iron them together creating flatness as well.
Ever since I learned about the technique, my favorite way to apply thin veneer, is to coat both surfaces with Titebond glue, let it dry (or slightly tacky), then use an iron to join the pieces, just as if it was coated with hot melt glue. No special tools (other than an iron), it's repositionable and non-toxic. Are you familiar with the technique and are you aware of any reason not to use it?
@brooos
Have you tried it on a guitar?
Veneering pre bent sides would be a challenge
Nice one. Short, informative and inspirational - thank you.
Thanks for the tutorial. Your videos are always educational and you are constantly presenting new tools and methods to accomplish a task. Take care and stay safe so that we can all benefit from your talents and content. Have a good one :D 🖐
I do veneers occasionally and have done some laminates as well. Two tricks I picked up: use gel contact cement (easier to spread evenly and doesn't run as much); rollers can apply enough pressure but edge of the soft wood (lightly curved by sanding) or plastic carpet tucker are better. Hope this helps. Also as a general comment contact cement is not that scarry - watch few videos and open the garage doors and you will do fine.
To the point, great info, another tool to add to the kit of knowledge. Thanks, James.
Never apply glue to the veneer. Only to the base wood. A nice guide anyway. :) Especially that simple vacuum bag. I created a 3 ton press for my inlays that works well on planar objects, but i will definitely get that bag so curved surfaces will be easier to press. Thanks!
Great video! Veneering can be very easy or as intricate and labor intensive as you like. I have done many cabinets with paper backed veneer all the way up to hammer veneering with traditional hide glue. All methods have their place and benefits
Thanks for the post. Makes it a little less imposing
Great tutorial, Stumpy~! I'm going to pick up one of those vacuum bags for my shop. Thanks~!
Very helpful. Thanks.
Stumpy, I have used vacuum pumps for about $100. They can draw down to about 27", and as a compressor, they put out around 40 PSI, varying with the different models.
I keep learning stuff, so I keep coming back. Thumbs up to crush a troll.
Hey James, I'm working on starting a UA-cam channel and would like to ask your permission to reference you on occasion when giving advice and tips/tricks as you have a fantastic way of walking through processes and explaining how things work
great video. would love a similar one about creating book match or similar veneer joints seamlessly.
We'll see how this veneering video is received :)
@@StumpyNubs I'll second that request.
Would that last method also work with those space saver bags for clothing, which you can vacuum with a vacuum cleaner?
People actually do that... look it up... The info is out there.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Ditto
have you ever tried a method of spreading yellow glue on both surfaces. Let it dry completely and then iron the veneer on? the iron melts the glue and the two surfaces that have been covered with glue become fused.
Great subject, and good tips. The sanding tools look intriguing as well, because using a rasp is not my best skill. Smaller tools to get into the corners look like they may help. How about a video on those tools (rasps, files, Dura grit. More on veneering would be welcome too.
Great video! Would you also put a tutorial on bent lamination? Will the hand pump still work there?
Good video.
Awesome video. I always wanted to try Veneer, but was hesitant to try it. Maybe some time down the road I'll try it.
I veneer every day at work, we use 3M Fastbond contact cement because it has low VOC’s. It’s great stuff and can be released with a household iron. The vast majority of our veneer is a paper backed, so it’s not as delicate.
When using contact cement, you may want to seal the glue surfaces with shellac first. This will limit water absorption and prevent the cement bleeding through to the finish side
I don’t like using contact cement for wood veneers…have had a couple of spectacular failures. Heat Lock glue works very well for me. It works similar to the wood glue method, with the addition of ironing it to set it.
You my boy blue
I heard that you can iron on a thin layer ov yellow glue on your vener and peice of wood,then let dry.then iron them.
Great for covering endgrain plywood.
thanks
I want to learn how to do this process, need a band saw 1st but it is on my list of tools to buy
Where’s the video on loose tenon joinery to make that exterior door. I really want to see that.
Stumpy: Your videos are always interesting and feature methods that many of us may not be aware of. Today's video was sort of an exception since you missed one very easy way to apply veneer. You just coat both surfaces with wood glue (much as you do with contact cement) let the glue dry to touch, place it on the substrate and go over the veneer surface with a hot iron. (just use a domestic iron just like home makers have been using for years and don't use any steam)
If you are applying veneer to solid wood it is important to veneer both sides to prevent warping caused by surface tension. Try the hot iron method you will find it is a cinch. David Adair
"Your videos are always interesting and feature methods that many of us may not be aware of. Today's video was sort of an exception..." How is this video an "exception" when it appears the method that I did not discuss was one you were already "aware of?" ;)
I have a question. I have veneered paper backed thin veneers as well as solid wood thin veneers with the iron on method.
i would be curious to hear your take on that process. also what you might think about iron on with say 1/8" veneer. I have used both titebond 2 abd titebond 3 for this purpose. Also, my love goes out to those good titebond people and their support staff that offer such good advice to the average woodworker. The Franklin
company I believe.
I agree, I think veneering should be used more, why? Because stable wide boards are getting harder to find, and cost is rising.
Great timing for this video for me. My next project involves veneering and I've been reading up on it. The info on glue choice was very informative, but I wonder, could/would you use epoxy for gluing veneers? Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for this!
Thanks for sharing.
A question for experienced woodworkers. In your experience, do brad nails apply sufficient pressure to guarantee a good bond with wood glue between the veneer and the underlaying wood? I have actually had to do it, with good results, i think. But it's a technique that seems a bit sketchy to me.
Let me preface by saying that i'm a carpenter by trade, i work mostly on site, not in a shop. A few times i had to apply AC grade 1/8in plywood to some surfaces that offer NO reasonable clamping options.
I realize that there are some adhesives that don't require hours of clamping, much like the type James uses in the first section of the video. But i live in a the rural zone of a forgotten village in the least mentioned province of a developing nation at the edge of the known world. I really, really don't get to play with anything remotely fancy in terms of products. I have wood glue, epoxy, super glue (expensive as hell) and polyurethanic glue. That's it.
Ooh, could that vacuum bag system be used for stabilizing small pieces of wood? Or like, would it be practical or economical to try and rig up that valve to a big mason jar or something?
Would you recommend buying remade veneers of different wood types for a small project such as bedside tables? I enjoy your lessons. Thank you.
I would say definitely yes. Jon Peters had couple of such videos where he uses zebra wood.
And then there's the 'real' method. Hot hide glue. I enjoy the whole process.
Too bad that veneers got a "bad rap" long ago. Sure, you can veneer some cheap crap and you end up with cheap crap that looks a little better. But, you can also get tremendous furniture and other items of the highest quality. Veneering gives you a way to use species of wood that would otherwise be too rare and/or too expensive to do with solid pieces. I have used the roarockit when I was starting out and eventually graduated to a big bag and pump that can hold a full size sheet of plywood. I loved your video, but you left out one key tidbit of information. Even though veneers are thin, the forces of wood expansion and contraction are very strong, so you need to veneer both sides of a project to prevent your piece from bending, curling or warping.
Thanks, I'm starting a project next week and was only going to veneer the visible side.
Should the same veneer be applied to both sides or will any veneers do?
I've heard "platints" called "cauls"
Nice
Could someone recommend an online supply house for veneers for the home woodworking market? I've been looking lately. Ty. And which product do you buy? Plus, I read that some buy a cheaper veneer for the back of veneered pieces. Any info for a beginner, thanks.
Love it, thank you.
Any tricks on veneering curved edges or mouldings? Can it be done?
The Roarockit vacuum kit he talks about in the video excells at this... perfect for that kind of veneering... it was designed to do curved skateboard decks. There are other vids on using it on curved pieces.
@@0dtp1 thank you
If you don't want to invest in a ton of new equipment, hide glue hammer veneering is an inexpensive option used prior to the invention of PVA for centuries and requires no clamps. Hide glue is also non marking under finishes, so no more glue marks on your project.
@@csstatham must research that never heard of it sounds very interesting, thank you 👍.
@@bluewanderer9903try UA-cam search for Shannon Rogers channel or the old brown glue website. They both have instructional videos on using hide glue for veneering panels, marquetry, columns & curved edges.
will contact cement trigger the saw stop?
I doesn't trigger mine.
Thought of a question. Many of the vacuum systems I have seen on other channels, stay attached, and monitors if vacuum goes down. At least this is what I thought. What do you do in the case of this system? Thanks.
If you have a good bag, it will hold a seal. I don't see a need to monitor it.
One point I did not pick up on is if those vacuum bags are reuseable? Can someone comment on this please. Toby
Yes, they will last for years.
What's the difference between a platten and a caul?
A caul us a strip of wood, usually with a crowned edge. A platen is a panel that distributes pressure over an area rather than a corridor. At least that's my understanding. But these are merely semantics :)
🤔 That may work on my 3D cutting boards
♥️
What is the recommended thickness of the veneers?
As thick as you like.
Yes, I veneered a custom exterior door (stave core stiles) with 1/4" (resawn on table saw) 165 y.o. maple. Used Cascamite UF glue and rolled it out. Then Parallel bar clamps to lock it down for a day.
Worked at a woodshop, had to quit because every project was veneered. I want to work with wood not mdf and veneer. Smh
Those little bits you're gluing on look like commercial veneers, the very thin pieces around 1/32". I don't think I'd care to cut my own via any sort of resaw technique, as shown here. 1/4", 1/8" or even 1/16", maybe; but making the really thin ones calls for more specialized machinery and technique.
The bandsawn veneers in the video were 1/8" thick.