The screws I prefer► castleusa.com/categories/accessories/screws.html When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us► Castle Pocket Hole Machines castleusa.com/
Maybe you misspoke but Castle states their pocket holes are 6 degrees, not 3 degrees as you stated in the video. Normal pocket holes, Kreg, etc. are 15 degrees...
I had no idea about high-low screws until watching this. I think I finally found an answer to not needing to buy a variety of different screws; this is a fantastic piece of knowledge. Seriously, thank you for this.
On Castle's website they now say :" NOTE: The #7 Coarse threaded pocket screw is now recommended in place of the #7 Hi-low thread for most common pocket joinery applications. The #7 Coarse-threaded is best suited for softwoods and hardwoods up to the hardness of Hickory as well as for melamine and plywood."
Forget about the one misspoken name ... this has got to be one of the most informative videos I've seen. I've had a few issues trying to get my pocket joints slick, and I think you've highlighted some really subtle things I'm not doing right. Spot on, well done, keep up the good work!
I so much appreciate that you explain the "why"s of what you show and choose. It helps me to think of factors I may not have thought about. Keep up the excellent videos!
Watch your vids all the time and watched the wood working show you used to be on. I’m an electrician for over 30 yrs but have always had an appreciation for wood workers cabinet makers ect. I’d like to consider myself a serious wood working hobbiest and wanted to let you know I really do appreciate your videos and the time you spend thank you
I’ve NEVER heard of a Robertson (square drive) head screw referred to as a “Nicholson” head screw. Even google doesn’t know was a Nicholson head screw is. Is that something unique to a specific region of the US? Isn’t Nicholson an old early industrial era New England company known for making files?
I agree. Having used Square head screws for tons of years I have always referred to them and only heard them referred to as Robertson drive screws including from bulk screw suppliers.
The clamp @1:25 looks interesting. I've almost finished my first pocket hole project (a router cabinet) and I soon learned that stopping the timber moving as the screw is tightened was something that needed dealing with. I ordered one from Amazon right after watching this video.
I use a normal wood screw (with taper head for countersunk holes) and use a metal machine bolt washer on the wood screw. That washer gives the underside flat, and the taper of the head centers on the washer nice. Also The metal washer is plenty strong to withstand the spreading load of the taper head. So the flat underside is held. It may protrude more of the head as the head will be proud and appear loose when fully tighten against the metal washer but for a recessed or counter-bored hole it does not matter much.
@@StumpyNubs I live in eastern europe. Pocket holes are not a thing (hard to find anything related like jigs, drillbits, screws). So i made my own jig and use whatever screw i have around. Also I'm not a woodworker, but a general purpose handyman. Phd in automotive engineering (lecturer at Uni) and in the weekend i am a mechanic/constructor/welder/woodworker/electronist/chemist/etc. I like to repair and maintain my own stuff. Mainly because i don't trust random people to do a good work and clean so i do it myself. And is nice to learn new skills whenever i need something.
Great video with great info. Answered some questions I’ve had. Sorry you got jumped on so many times. I guess people don’t bother to read prior comments before sounding off. Makes me happy not to be a content creator but very glad some of you out there not only have more knowledge, but also thicker skins, than i do.
I never knew there was so much to learn about pocket holes and the screws, this was a butt kicking video (as always). I didn't know there was a high low screw either and I like that idea a lot! Thank you sir!
Wow! Very informative, I learnt a lot from todays video and some reminders of things I had forgotten. I think I'll be buying less Phillips head screws from now on. I used to think a screw was a screw until I started watching your channel, now I understand that different heads are there for a reason and I had never thought about or considered thread spacing. All made sense and was very easy to understand. Thanks
Wow, I feel like I just took a master class on pocket hole screws! I was looking for specific information, but got a lot more. Thank you for the great explanation and information!
I do only the most basic woodworking; repairs mostly. But, watching your videos with the excellent amount of detail is nothing short of compelling. Great videos. SO informative. Maybe someday I'll get to use all your good counsel and advice.
Been using those for years. Work great. Use the proper screws, follow the chart for settings, use the proper screws, always do a test piece. Oh, and be real fussy about your screw bin. Never let a long screw into a shorter screw bin.!
I love the video. I just bought a starter kit of Kreg screws yesterday and was looking for good prices. It seems that, at least around here, Kreg screws are not the most expensive as I've constantly heard. Here at the local Lowes, the Kreg screws are about the same prices as those at Castle USA after adding shipping on the 1.25"/1000 count. In the per-100 packages, they are the lowest cost screws I found at Lowes. Someone mentioned the GRK and they are more expensive, but I think they are outdoor screws, so they should cost a little more. A friend of mine says he doesn't use the Kreg brand because he breaks the heads off way too often. I guess there are pros and cons to using the Kreg screws, too.
I'll admit I don't like the look of pocket holes and never intend to use one no matter how much easier they make a project, yet here I am, watching the entire video because of your excellent presentation of useful information.
Great guidelines for new comers and seasoned users of pocket hole joinery. I have been trying to figure out what angle the pocket hole should be at when making a pocket hole jig I'm in my 60s so it is better for me to try to make one than going into huge expense because of my health conditions and what glue is best for sticking the metal insert to the wood thanks great video
Only thing you didnt mention is weather resistance, what material the screw should be made of for indoor vs outdoor projects. But your video is so awesome..you explain things really well
In Sweden, I usually find the torx head screws by standard everywhere. I also got a nice pocket jig though it was not well known here. So it was hard to find the right screws after the kit provided ones ran out. Thanks
G'day You might want to redefine the description of "self tapping" screw (about 2:10) You showed 2 types of "self tapping" screws and implied the screw without the flute was not a "self tapping" type. My understanding was the fluted style was to cut the wood fibres to try and reduce splitting of the timber. It can also extract some of the "Swarf" to allow room for the screw thread.
Man, that was a stressful 4 min. as I stopped the video on the description of THAT screw. Thanks guys to have this all worked out before I arrived. Whew! Thanks Stumpy Nubs for a great sense of humour (spelt Canadian style). I guess I should have assumed a good sense of humor when a Master Woodworker chooses his Internet name to be Stumpy Nubs.
I just use decking screws such as GRK or similar copies. The counter sinking acts as a self centering locator and i 3D printed a guide to drill a pilot hole on side B based on the divot the pre-screwed screws make from side A.
I build pocket hole furniture for a living and have driven many thousands of screws. I find the hi lows give me more problems in hardwood and plywood. I run fine and coarse thread screws only. All square bit.
Great video, as usual. Interesting to see those typical Kr-g silver screws (cheap and low-toleranced) side-by-side to those precise filister screws. I will definitely look into those for sure. I guess the Phillips is the "new" slot-head screw! Btw, has anyone ever seen the King of Queens episode where Arthur invents a new type of screw he names "the Arthur-head" ... "the tip of the screwdriver fits into the corresponding 'A-hole' on the screw". Hilarious!
Thank you for the pocket hole cnudrum. Now it is clear on what type of screws to use on what ever project your working on I always have a question in the back of my mind if I'm using the right srew for the project that I'm working on. Again thank you for your info videos!!!!!
I recently got the castle 110 and used it for a large kitchen instead of the kreg. The castle screws are superior for hardwood face frames, however the threads do not work as well in plywood as kreg or even regular drywall screws.
Are you using an impact or a drill driver to install the screws? A drill driver with a moderate torgue setting should give you consistent results. You only need to compress the wood fibers on the sides of the screw just a bit to get a tight joint.
@@castleusa2792 I do recall having some issues with pocket screws (different jig) a few years back when we built some utility shelving with 5-layer construction grade plywood. That type of material crumbled when the screws were tightened because the thick end grain plies were fragile.
@@StumpyNubs Thanks for the reply. We use cabinet grade 3/4" maple plywood but I still think this may be the case. The threads going in 5/8" for hardwood face frames is plenty but the plywood layers just didn't have the holding power, I will probably change up the joinery for the next job to allow for more threads.
Inappropriate screw for pocket-hole joins; inappropriate screw for what many people use them for....because of the coarse thread, it feels like they're pulling and holding well, but they aren't strong enough to ensure a long-term join.
@@ricksolari9570 Good that it's been holding up. I'm just saying, many people use drywall screws instead of wood screws, but drywall screws tend to break relatively easy. Not the same thing as a wood screw.
@@darkmagna9004 True, but these are in a cabinet carcass. For the reasons you've stated, I'd never recommend their use for hinges or some other dynamic application.
Rick…why go to so much trouble and still end up with and incorrect screw. I have found that the Kreg screws are the right choice for several reasons including the fact that they are available in different lengths through to 2 1/2”.
I swear by pocket hole joinery, for a beginner woodworker it really opens up the scope of what is possible. And the joints are really strong when done correctly. Will I use pocket hole joinery in 5-10 years from now? Yes, even when I get better and am able to create more "authentic" joints, there's still places where pocket hole joinery makes a lot of sense. About screws? I just buy the Kreg stuff, not saying they're cheap, but I buy the blue ones which are mid range and in the end, in the grand scheme of things in woodworking there are other elements which start costing much more than pocket hole screws.
Another great topic. Pocket hole joinery is a system I have been looking into, do you have a special skill to pick relevant topics? I'm not the only commenter with this coincidence (Farmer Jesse). As always, thank you for informative and relevant topics for all of us.
I always enjoy your videos! Any thoughts on the torque setting on the drill when driving the pocket hole screws? I recall, perhaps in an older Kreg video, they did strongly suggest a setting of 1 to prevent problems. That requires using a drill that has torque settings.
Now how about if you are joining 1/2” to 3/4” stock at a 90 degree angle? Do you still use 1.25” long screws, or do you go to 1” long? Would you set your drill bit collar or drill depth to the setting you would use for 3/4” or 1/2” stock?
But Kreg drills at 15 degrees, so much more limited than the Castle that does it at 6 degrees and much harder to do it precisely and as repeatable as you can with the Castle...
7+ minutes of excellence. 7+ minutes of very interesting information that helps so many people improve their carpenter game. 0.5 seconds spent accidentally naming a screw head type incorrectly. Guess which of these some, (too many, imho) focus on?
Robertson screws are a Canadian invention and have been used here for many years. Once you have used one you’ll understand and never want to use a Phillips or Straight ..
Yup, there might be some people defending philips but they might as well be defending flat heads. One never goes back once they use torx or even Hex. Torx drives can even drive Hex.
I can't really think of one good thing to say about phillips heads. No idea why they still exist. They should really be extinct along with the flat head.
All of that because Mr Robertson didn't want to sell rights to Ford... And now the world is using a shitty screw that was originally designed for the driver to slip after a certain amount of torque :)
Great video. I have a porter cable production pocket hole cutter that looks identical to the Castle in your video (except the color). I have used it in a few of my videos and I agree that that type of machine cuts the best pocket holes and quickly. I wonder if Castle bought that from Porter or if they just made a good design better.
I know you meant "Robertson" screws... but for the sake of levity, I call them "Canadian Screws" in my shop. Kinda on purpose as a joke, because I heard a rumor that every time you say his name out loud, he's supposed to get a royalty. A couple of Loonies per instance.
i seem to have issues with splitting when im joitning 1 1/2" face frames the pocket hole that screws into the edge of the face frame ( maple ) seems to almost always want to split, im using the right screws and the only solution ive found is to do drill a pilot hole on the holes that will be on the outside edges :( .
This is great! Thanks for the feedback and for helping to explain all this. However, the screw that you are recommending is not listed as available on the castle website. The ⭐️ head 1 1/4 is not listed. ;-/ Furthermore, the shipping cost is nearly the cost of my order itself for two boxes of 250 screws. That seems a bit … egregious to me. But what do I know? 😉
I have one of the early Kreg Jig systems and it's done a lot of work for me. However, I find the step drill bit dulls quickly and I haven't found one that lasts long. Have you got any tips for better step bits, sharpening step bits, etc?
The screws I prefer► castleusa.com/categories/accessories/screws.html
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@@ddnaveh I feel you didn't understand the theme of the video was about screws.
Maybe you misspoke but Castle states their pocket holes are 6 degrees, not 3 degrees as you stated in the video. Normal pocket holes, Kreg, etc. are 15 degrees...
@@ZeoCyberG - The Castle 110 cuts a 3-degree pocket. The larger TSM-12 cuts at 6-degrees. Both are much lower angles than are typical.
@@StumpyNubs So this is specific to the portable system and it requires cheese head torx screws?
@@ZeoCyberG I find those do work the best.
Dude you are the king of video efficiency - LOVE these videos. No fluff, no meandering off on a tangent, just straight ahead information.
I had no idea about high-low screws until watching this. I think I finally found an answer to not needing to buy a variety of different screws; this is a fantastic piece of knowledge. Seriously, thank you for this.
On Castle's website they now say :" NOTE: The #7 Coarse threaded pocket screw is now recommended in place of the #7 Hi-low thread for most common pocket joinery applications. The #7 Coarse-threaded is best suited for softwoods and hardwoods up to the hardness of Hickory as well as for melamine and plywood."
Forget about the one misspoken name ... this has got to be one of the most informative videos I've seen. I've had a few issues trying to get my pocket joints slick, and I think you've highlighted some really subtle things I'm not doing right. Spot on, well done, keep up the good work!
I so much appreciate that you explain the "why"s of what you show and choose. It helps me to think of factors I may not have thought about. Keep up the excellent videos!
How do you always post videos with content that are relevant to me with my upcoming work? Unreal, I always look forward to your videos
Watch your vids all the time and watched the wood working show you used to be on. I’m an electrician for over 30 yrs but have always had an appreciation for wood workers cabinet makers ect. I’d like to consider myself a serious wood working hobbiest and wanted to let you know I really do appreciate your videos and the time you spend thank you
I’ve NEVER heard of a Robertson (square drive) head screw referred to as a “Nicholson” head screw. Even google doesn’t know was a Nicholson head screw is. Is that something unique to a specific region of the US? Isn’t Nicholson an old early industrial era New England company known for making files?
It would appear that he mis-spoke. He responded to another comment.
I agree. Having used Square head screws for tons of years I have always referred to them and only heard them referred to as Robertson drive screws including from bulk screw suppliers.
I misspoke. Now I get to hear about it a billion times. So much for the other seven minutes and two seconds of the video... LOL...
I’d love working with you in your shop. So much knowledge. Well done on your videos, always clear and well presented
A Robertson is a Canadian invention.... most American manufacturers don’t like paying Canadian royalties,,,that’s why torx was invented,,,,just saying
I have never used Pocket Hole joinery before and I am looking for all the help I can get. Thanks for an informative tutorial.........
Love the level of in depth detail.
The clamp @1:25 looks interesting. I've almost finished my first pocket hole project (a router cabinet) and I soon learned that stopping the timber moving as the screw is tightened was something that needed dealing with. I ordered one from Amazon right after watching this video.
You by far give the most information on woodworking videos. I really appreciate it. You help me become a better woodworker.
I use a normal wood screw (with taper head for countersunk holes) and use a metal machine bolt washer on the wood screw. That washer gives the underside flat, and the taper of the head centers on the washer nice. Also The metal washer is plenty strong to withstand the spreading load of the taper head. So the flat underside is held. It may protrude more of the head as the head will be proud and appear loose when fully tighten against the metal washer but for a recessed or counter-bored hole it does not matter much.
May I ask why? Proper pocket screws aren't expensive.
@@StumpyNubs I live in eastern europe. Pocket holes are not a thing (hard to find anything related like jigs, drillbits, screws). So i made my own jig and use whatever screw i have around.
Also I'm not a woodworker, but a general purpose handyman. Phd in automotive engineering (lecturer at Uni) and in the weekend i am a mechanic/constructor/welder/woodworker/electronist/chemist/etc. I like to repair and maintain my own stuff. Mainly because i don't trust random people to do a good work and clean so i do it myself. And is nice to learn new skills whenever i need something.
Great video with great info. Answered some questions I’ve had. Sorry you got jumped on so many times. I guess people don’t bother to read prior comments before sounding off. Makes me happy not to be a content creator but very glad some of you out there not only have more knowledge, but also thicker skins, than i do.
I never knew there was so much to learn about pocket holes and the screws, this was a butt kicking video (as always). I didn't know there was a high low screw either and I like that idea a lot! Thank you sir!
Wow! Very informative, I learnt a lot from todays video and some reminders of things I had forgotten. I think I'll be buying less Phillips head screws from now on. I used to think a screw was a screw until I started watching your channel, now I understand that different heads are there for a reason and I had never thought about or considered thread spacing. All made sense and was very easy to understand. Thanks
Thanks, Bros, Whenever I watch your video, there are so many details In the content that I hardly see on other youtube videos!
Wow, I feel like I just took a master class on pocket hole screws! I was looking for specific information, but got a lot more. Thank you for the great explanation and information!
Really good clear explanation. Ive never used pockets in any projects, but still learned some info here. Thanks MrvStumpy
Good info that the average person wouldn’t even know to consider. Thanks again!
I agree!
Always love when a new Stumpy drops!
( 👁 ͜ʖ👁)
Great tutorial. Covered all my questions plus the one about using glue. Thanks!
Great video. You always do a great job presenting information without bias. I appreciate hearing your recommendation. Keep up the great work!
Man, that was beautiful. I can't believe that. I want you on the Board of Directors.
I do only the most basic woodworking; repairs mostly. But, watching your videos with the excellent amount of detail is nothing short of compelling. Great videos. SO informative. Maybe someday I'll get to use all your good counsel and advice.
Poor stumpy nubs is getting a grilling over the screw type comment. Good video keep it up.
Been using those for years. Work great. Use the proper screws, follow the chart for settings, use the proper screws, always do a test piece. Oh, and be real fussy about your screw bin. Never let a long screw into a shorter screw bin.!
Thanks for all your great videos.
Walt Sommers
Clearly lays out the alternatives and rationales. Thanks for the video.
Very informative and convincing and always - thanks @StumpyNubs!
I love the video. I just bought a starter kit of Kreg screws yesterday and was looking for good prices. It seems that, at least around here, Kreg screws are not the most expensive as I've constantly heard.
Here at the local Lowes, the Kreg screws are about the same prices as those at Castle USA after adding shipping on the 1.25"/1000 count. In the per-100 packages, they are the lowest cost screws I found at Lowes.
Someone mentioned the GRK and they are more expensive, but I think they are outdoor screws, so they should cost a little more.
A friend of mine says he doesn't use the Kreg brand because he breaks the heads off way too often.
I guess there are pros and cons to using the Kreg screws, too.
I'll admit I don't like the look of pocket holes and never intend to use one no matter how much easier they make a project, yet here I am, watching the entire video because of your excellent presentation of useful information.
Great guidelines for new comers and seasoned users of pocket hole joinery. I have been trying to figure out what angle the pocket hole should be at when making a pocket hole jig I'm in my 60s so it is better for me to try to make one than going into huge expense because of my health conditions and what glue is best for sticking the metal insert to the wood thanks great video
Great lesson for me. Thank you very much.
Thanks for the great video James 👍 Lots of excellent information 👍 😀
Great info.... also great to see your videos .... great information all the time
Only thing you didnt mention is weather resistance, what material the screw should be made of for indoor vs outdoor projects. But your video is so awesome..you explain things really well
Thanks for this info. And also, for simply giving out information concisely without trying to do standup!
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Amazing explanation video thank you.
In Sweden, I usually find the torx head screws by standard everywhere. I also got a nice pocket jig though it was not well known here. So it was hard to find the right screws after the kit provided ones ran out. Thanks
So many details Iv never considered through 1000000 pocket holes. Great stuff
as usual you explain things incredibly clear and precise!! congratulations!!
Thanks James
G'day You might want to redefine the description of "self tapping" screw (about 2:10) You showed 2 types of "self tapping" screws and implied the screw without the flute was not a "self tapping" type. My understanding was the fluted style was to cut the wood fibres to try and reduce splitting of the timber. It can also extract some of the "Swarf" to allow room for the screw thread.
Very informational as usual and greatly appreciated.
wow I learned a lot about pocket screws that I only have used a few times
Thanks for the note on the screws. Only issue was that it was almost as much to ship them as to purchase them so I just left them in my cart.
Man, that was a stressful 4 min. as I stopped the video on the description of THAT screw. Thanks guys to have this all worked out before I arrived. Whew! Thanks Stumpy Nubs for a great sense of humour (spelt Canadian style). I guess I should have assumed a good sense of humor when a Master Woodworker chooses his Internet name to be Stumpy Nubs.
Excellent video. Excellent explanation. Thanks for the info!
I just use decking screws such as GRK or similar copies. The counter sinking acts as a self centering locator and i 3D printed a guide to drill a pilot hole on side B based on the divot the pre-screwed screws make from side A.
I build pocket hole furniture for a living and have driven many thousands of screws. I find the hi lows give me more problems in hardwood and plywood. I run fine and coarse thread screws only. All square bit.
As always in your videos, clear and informative.
We don't have square screw heads here in the UK. It's either straight slot or phillips head.
Great video, as usual. Interesting to see those typical Kr-g silver screws (cheap and low-toleranced) side-by-side to those precise filister screws. I will definitely look into those for sure.
I guess the Phillips is the "new" slot-head screw!
Btw, has anyone ever seen the King of Queens episode where Arthur invents a new type of screw he names "the Arthur-head" ... "the tip of the screwdriver fits into the corresponding 'A-hole' on the screw". Hilarious!
Thank you for the pocket hole cnudrum. Now it is clear on what type of screws to use on what ever project your working on I always have a question in the back of my mind if I'm using the right srew for the project that I'm working on. Again thank you for your info videos!!!!!
I recently got the castle 110 and used it for a large kitchen instead of the kreg. The castle screws are superior for hardwood face frames, however the threads do not work as well in plywood as kreg or even regular drywall screws.
That's strange. We use them in plywood quite often and they work very well.
Are you using an impact or a drill driver to install the screws? A drill driver with a moderate torgue setting should give you consistent results. You only need to compress the wood fibers on the sides of the screw just a bit to get a tight joint.
@@castleusa2792 I do recall having some issues with pocket screws (different jig) a few years back when we built some utility shelving with 5-layer construction grade plywood. That type of material crumbled when the screws were tightened because the thick end grain plies were fragile.
@@castleusa2792 I tried with both, but will definitely play around with the drill settings for driving screws.
@@StumpyNubs Thanks for the reply. We use cabinet grade 3/4" maple plywood but I still think this may be the case. The threads going in 5/8" for hardwood face frames is plenty but the plywood layers just didn't have the holding power, I will probably change up the joinery for the next job to allow for more threads.
Well presented.
I've gotten excellent results with drywall screws and tiny washers to create a shoulder.
Inappropriate screw for pocket-hole joins; inappropriate screw for what many people use them for....because of the coarse thread, it feels like they're pulling and holding well, but they aren't strong enough to ensure a long-term join.
@@darkmagna9004 Thanks, but they've been holding well for over eight years. Kreg makes coarse thread pocket screws as well.
@@ricksolari9570 Good that it's been holding up. I'm just saying, many people use drywall screws instead of wood screws, but drywall screws tend to break relatively easy. Not the same thing as a wood screw.
@@darkmagna9004 True, but these are in a cabinet carcass. For the reasons you've stated, I'd never recommend their use for hinges or some other dynamic application.
Rick…why go to so much trouble and still end up with and incorrect screw. I have found that the Kreg screws are the right choice for several reasons including the fact that they are available in different lengths through to 2 1/2”.
Awesome, very educational and great advise. Thanks
I use the washer head screws for non pocket hole applications that do not require a flush head.
Awesome tips, dude! Thanks a lot! 😃
I still need to get a pocket hole jig... But the tips are noted! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great information James, thanks for sharing with us. Fred.🙏🏻🙏🏻👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👋👋
Wow. Great job. A lot of information. Thanks 😊
Thanks for the helpful info
Thanks for sharing those tips!
I swear by pocket hole joinery, for a beginner woodworker it really opens up the scope of what is possible. And the joints are really strong when done correctly.
Will I use pocket hole joinery in 5-10 years from now? Yes, even when I get better and am able to create more "authentic" joints, there's still places where pocket hole joinery makes a lot of sense.
About screws? I just buy the Kreg stuff, not saying they're cheap, but I buy the blue ones which are mid range and in the end, in the grand scheme of things in woodworking there are other elements which start costing much more than pocket hole screws.
Great video and tips. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent video
Another great topic. Pocket hole joinery is a system I have been looking into, do you have a special skill to pick relevant topics? I'm not the only commenter with this coincidence (Farmer Jesse). As always, thank you for informative and relevant topics for all of us.
Thanks for the video! When reassembling again, is it still solid enough?
This has been interesting, I've been considering getting a Safety speed pocket hole machine and wasn't sure what to use going from kreg.
Whew! Gonna have to watch this one a few more times.
Outstanding as always.
I always enjoy your videos! Any thoughts on the torque setting on the drill when driving the pocket hole screws? I recall, perhaps in an older Kreg video, they did strongly suggest a setting of 1 to prevent problems. That requires using a drill that has torque settings.
Do you mean torque or speed setting? I do drive square head bits at a lower torque, but 1 would be awfully low
Now how about if you are joining 1/2” to 3/4” stock at a 90 degree angle? Do you still use 1.25” long screws, or do you go to 1” long? Would you set your drill bit collar or drill depth to the setting you would use for 3/4” or 1/2” stock?
How do you preload a screw?
Have a video for that one?
Great video. Thanks.
I used SPAX screws for pocket holes
I can easily adjust the distance between the pocket and the board on my kreg pocket hole jig, too.
But Kreg drills at 15 degrees, so much more limited than the Castle that does it at 6 degrees and much harder to do it precisely and as repeatable as you can with the Castle...
Thanks mate. As always a great presentation
7+ minutes of excellence. 7+ minutes of very interesting information that helps so many people improve their carpenter game.
0.5 seconds spent accidentally naming a screw head type incorrectly.
Guess which of these some, (too many, imho) focus on?
Yes, one misspeak costs you BIG on the internet because people LOVE to correct you :)
Awesome info, thanks
Robertson screws are a Canadian invention and have been used here for many years. Once you have used one you’ll understand and never want to use a Phillips or Straight ..
"philips head screws are a poor choice" that sentence can just end there and still be just as correct.
@@bobt2522 exactly. If you're using the right bit, and you Don't drive it in like an idiot, the bit locks in great
Yup, there might be some people defending philips but they might as well be defending flat heads. One never goes back once they use torx or even Hex. Torx drives can even drive Hex.
I can't really think of one good thing to say about phillips heads. No idea why they still exist. They should really be extinct along with the flat head.
@@bobt2522 Yeah if I see a Phillips screw my fist thought is, will it take a accept a square drive? Many do and is rather not mess with pozidrive.
All of that because Mr Robertson didn't want to sell rights to Ford... And now the world is using a shitty screw that was originally designed for the driver to slip after a certain amount of torque :)
Very informative, thank you!
Well thought out tutorial. I thought square drives were called Robertson. What name did you use?
Never mind. Read the answer.
Bryan…you can thank us Canadians for the Robertson drive screws. 🇨🇦
Always helpful. thanks
Good explanation. Thanks.
Would 3/4 inch Radiata Pine Plywood work well for cabinets using pocket hole joints?
Great video. I have a porter cable production pocket hole cutter that looks identical to the Castle in your video (except the color). I have used it in a few of my videos and I agree that that type of machine cuts the best pocket holes and quickly. I wonder if Castle bought that from Porter or if they just made a good design better.
Castle licensed it to PC for a while. The new Castle version includes several improvements over the old PC version, as well.
Good stuff! Another very helpful video :)
Can we use self tapping screw?
I know you meant "Robertson" screws... but for the sake of levity, I call them "Canadian Screws" in my shop. Kinda on purpose as a joke, because I heard a rumor that every time you say his name out loud, he's supposed to get a royalty. A couple of Loonies per instance.
salways James very informative!! Thank you!
i seem to have issues with splitting when im joitning 1 1/2" face frames the pocket hole that screws into the edge of the face frame ( maple ) seems to almost always want to split, im using the right screws and the only solution ive found is to do drill a pilot hole on the holes that will be on the outside edges :( .
This is great! Thanks for the feedback and for helping to explain all this.
However, the screw that you are recommending is not listed as available on the castle website. The ⭐️ head 1 1/4 is not listed. ;-/
Furthermore, the shipping cost is nearly the cost of my order itself for two boxes of 250 screws.
That seems a bit … egregious to me. But what do I know? 😉
I have one of the early Kreg Jig systems and it's done a lot of work for me. However, I find the step drill bit dulls quickly and I haven't found one that lasts long. Have you got any tips for better step bits, sharpening step bits, etc?
That's the downside of stepped drill bits as opposed to a router-based system like Castle.
3:51 did you mean Robinson screw head? I never heard of Nicholson's square head.
How do those Castle screws hold up outdoors?