I have stuck 75mm PIR with "Mega Stik" Foam and then stuck a 12.5mm plasterboard ontop of that with this foam too. Very easy and very quick and works! Also minimal filling/joining too
I battened my bathroom walls which were all over the place... I used a method suggested by Robin Clevett which was to build the batten frame on the floor, then screw it to the wall - this allows you to get the corners flat and plumb - and then basically have something holding your timber in place while you put in any packers you need. Also, a laser level would be your friend here - rather than using a conventional level to check for plumb.
I've watched many similar videos recently and this is by far the best. Your attention to detail (even down to drill size) and full explanation of what you're doing and planning to do is exactly what novices such as myself need. Ten out of ten and thank you.
I keep a tube of red lipstick in my toolbox to dab on the edges of the electric boxes/ protrusions before doing the tamping for impressions method you used, leaving an easy to see red line to cut out. Chalk can also work for this if you can get it to stick to the protruding object. Happy DIYing😻
Mr. TCD has a talent for filming, assisting and managing to keep himself out of camera range. Seriously, Well Done to the both of you...ya'all did a beautiful job with the wall!!! It is interesting to see the differences in building methods between the US & the UK...I had cinder block walls when I lived in US Navy barracks...hated them...but now I can see how the wall would have been vastly improved with your batten and drywall process. Wishing you both great success with future projects!
Thanks so much 😀 I just can't seem to convince him to be in front of the camera 😅 I certainly love the cosier feel now.... can't wait to get this finished!
15:00 spot on 🙂 Other ways to do this is to put chalk around the edge of the back boxes, or a bit of ink if it won't dry too quick, or you can get things called SOCKITZ SPLATEZ that can put marks on the back of the board. Lovely stuff thanks. If a bloke had done this, he would have done it all wearing the same outfit, including pants 🙂🙂
Great work Vicki, when you do more boarding and if you decide to dot and dab then lay your boards horizontally, you can get a straight edge along the board so skirting sit true and then use a plumb rule to tap home 1200mm high, this is easier to do then trying to plumb a 2400mm board and them hoping you get a straight wall with it going in and out. Hope you understand my thinking there.
Well done Vikkie you're doing a fab job one tip I would give you is when you score the plasterboard with your knife then fold it over run your knife down the paper from the back of it you'll find it a lot easier to follow the natural crease in the fold. I'm really enjoying your journey although I'm not sure whats harder doing the work yourself or keeping my name sake off camera lol. Keep up the great work xx
13:59 This is why you run it horizontal. Then you tape it and bed the tape. Then you can thin the mud out and roll it on with a nappy roller. Then take a wide blade and smooth it out flat. Looks like a million bucks.
Battening the wall is what I did on my new extension and also the unlevel and untrue walls of the original house , dot and dab has damp (issues) , and foaming has unlevel issues, I've tried them all, battening takes longer to do but has a much better job result and has the added strength that you can fix OSB boards to the battens and plasterboards over the top as well if you want to hang cupboards or anything like tv or shelfs of them .
Nice work Vikkie, no matter what anyone says you can do it alot better than i could. Love the new look shorts and boots ha ha ha. Take Care. Barry (the Wirral)
Looks good, battens are a good shout for this area. In this heat I think you'd be looking at 20-30 mins tops work time with dot and dab, which is a bit frantic for us diyers! To save all the drill bit changes try the Bosch multi material bits, they aren't amzing wood or masonry bits but for framing onto a wall like this they are perfect, just bang through the lot with one bit now swapping and they do the job nicely. For marking your sockets use the old trick of rubbing a bit of pencil lead around the back boxes first, it saves a lot of banging and risk of damaging the boards. I've found an old tenon saw to be great for thin little cuts on plasterboard, pb eats Stanley blades so might as well save them and avoid the risk of crumbly edges on small cuts. Looks perfect though especially with the added support for the monster TV!
I absolutely agree, the bigger my subscribers have grown, the more valuable tips and advice I have received and I truly appreciate it. Sharing my DIY journey has been surprisingly more beneficial than I first ever imagined it would be than when I started this channel 🤩
Well done Vicki, brilliant, have a think about using foam designed for attaching plasterboard, it's a similar process as using plasterboard adhesive, it will take a lot of time pressure of you,
Great video helpful and informative thanks good tip for getting electrical back box impressions on the sheet is to run a scrap of plaster board around all the rim edges and chalk them up leaves a much clearer mark of the sheet back ✊ best wishes Mikee
Lining paper might help with the wall when you have filled all the gaps and sanded them down. It might save on getting the wall plastered. Remember to fill the gaps on the joining paper if you use that method. Use a high-grade paper to hide any imperfections. 👍👍
Great job Vikkie, so satisfying seeing it come together. Got to agree about timber in packs, we built a massive catio last year and so much of what turned up was useless, really frustrating.
Yes, it really is but sometimes it's hard to resist DIY store's flash sales (15% off) and the price of these pushed us up into the free delivery bracket as didnt want to pay delivery for the plasterboard 😆😆
Hi Vikkie starting to look real good, can’t wait to see it finished, two things when mounting the TV ideally the middle of the screen should be at eye level when you re sitting down also you mentioned about colours for the wall as you are mounting a Philips Ambilight it needs to be a white wall really otherwise the lighting won’t look right.
them masonry screws look very good, saves a lot of rawlplug faff... i would have gone with battens too, I just don't trust myself to level plasterboard with dot and dab and I think battens are a better job all round. thanks for sharing and all is progressing well!
Thanks. I was worried I'd fail at getting it perfect on the wall woth d&b.... particularly with sockets too. I'll have to get it out of my system for some of the other walls 😆
I am battening my hallway. My first attempt at dot and dab in the the living room was horrible and knackering. The adhesive is really heavy to work with. Hoping mine goes as well as yours 😊
Sounds like we're both doing it in reverse! It'll be my turn soon 😅 Just take your time checking for level. I can tell the process is so much forgiving than when I've worked cement that goes off quick!
I Love Watching Your Video's Your Doing A Great Job. Have A Question The Heater you are putting in the Fire Place Area how Will you Get heat from their? And How Much Heat Do You expect to get? We have One in Ours and Get Very Little!!
If I'm doing a wall that will have stuff hanging like tv's etc! I stud that bit then double up with 18mm osb then plasterboard at least you have a chance of getting some sort of a decent fixing 👍🏻
Greets from your old Debs lot! Loving the series. Have you decided what you're using to hang the TV yet? Have done similar in the past with a timber frame followed by ply and plasterboard, bit more space behind to allow future working room. On the penetrations to ceiling, i think i'm going with a fire sock next time, will still close the gap, but allow future access
Having dot and dabbed an entire house, I can say it’s hard work even with helper. When cutting close to a board edge, score both sides with knife before snapping and cleaning up. When cutting board well away from edges (normal cuts), after snapping, cut the backing paper from the back not the front, it’s easier.
I would have taken the opportunity to insulate any external wall with multifoil. Rather than timber battens metal firrings can be used, which can be adjusted to take up any deviations in plumb and provide a substantial fixing for the plasterboard.
Use the edge of a bit of scrap plasterboard and rub it on your boxes. It'll act almost like a crayon and leave a nice clear mark when you knock your sheet onto the boxes.
Dot and dab just seem a bit ropey to me for some reason - and I've noticed a lot of movement on some of our walls particularly when timber framed. Battens just seem a bit more mechanically "robust" albeit maybe more time consuming and costly?
Im looking to mount a plasterboard wall on an exterior wall (just so i can insulate) do i need to remove the wallpaper and plaster or can i just put the batons straight on the wall?
Thee's a liquid/paste called machinist's blue. It takes a very long time to dry... Put a little on the rim of the boxes, and it WILL mark the back of the plasterboard... and everything else... effing stuff gets onto everything! You get the idea; avoid that stuff and find something that dries a bit faster.
Haha... it's been VERY hot this week 🤩 (plus there's less brambles on our property, so I've felt a bit daring.... although the nettles have been getting me 😬
I never buy wood in a pack. I open them up and get the better ones and cable tie them together in the right quantity. Just make sure you have a bar code on the new 'pack' 😉😉
Dot and Dab is the quicker method for getting it on the wall, but needs experience to level the surface before the board becomes soggy from the moisture in the adhesive. Also takes days to dry properly as all the moisture has to go through the board, making the board very susceptible to damage (look at it wrong and it'll take a chunk out the surface, just because) until it's completely dry again. Also doesn't give much help in the future for cable runs.
If you have used square edged 12mm plasterboard I guess you will plaster the wall traditionally. That being the case, why did you fill all the screw holes and butt joints. And, why use a water based tape system? If you intend to tape fill the butt joints you should have used tapered edge boards. In addition, if you put a TV on the wall, normally that would be mounted about 1.2 metres off the flour. The board you screwed to the wall were too low and also too thin to take the normal 90mm mounting coach bolts.
Tape & fill should've used tapered edge boards. Square edge is for skim. You're right by pre soaking the tape. I just don't get why you've used SE boards if you're not skimming
I wanted to perfect my taping skills tbh and think getting the boards plumb was easier to straight edge. Have used tapered edges before for the ceiling.
Never batten out walls in your home with wood because it’s prone to shrinkage and in time all you’ll get is hairline cracks where the plasterboards butt up, if you want to use anything other than dot and dab use metal stud or metal furrings which won’t suffer shrinkage problems.
Sadly I've tried for years to get him in front of the camera with me because i think our videos would be so much better with extra banter, but I think I'm flogging a dead horse 😆😆😆
Screws should be every 150mm when plasterboarding unless the regulations have changed. Also its better to just cut an inch or so off the bottom of the boards as the skirting will cover it anyway. Apart from that good work 👍
Remodeling is so much easier in the U.S. where the houses are made of wood.unless it is 150 years old like mine and the wood is petrified .lol. I would use construction glue as well as screws. Concrete block cannot be trusted to hold a fastener.
Interesting... I thought I'd try it this time as so many people previously recommended the Vancouver Carpenter's method in my last video who prefills them
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK metal frame,it comes with a top and bottom track,and brackets that fix to he walls. Saves messing about with packers,and it won't rot.
brave using plasterboard.. or maybe i am just old fashioned but i hate plasterboard i much prefer "Real" plaster so much better to hang heavy things like TV's on as you go directly into the wall and have no void's ...
How would you have finished this wall?
Dot and dab quicker and cheaper but battens are more precise. Cross battened is best if you have the space.
I have stuck 75mm PIR with "Mega Stik" Foam and then stuck a 12.5mm plasterboard ontop of that with this foam too.
Very easy and very quick and works!
Also minimal filling/joining too
Thanks so much for your thoughts 😀
Now that is very interesting!
GYPLINER
I battened my bathroom walls which were all over the place... I used a method suggested by Robin Clevett which was to build the batten frame on the floor, then screw it to the wall - this allows you to get the corners flat and plumb - and then basically have something holding your timber in place while you put in any packers you need. Also, a laser level would be your friend here - rather than using a conventional level to check for plumb.
Love Robin Clevett. He’s so particular. I wish he lived in or worked in Cardiff
Me too
You think that will hold tile (shower walls)?
I've watched many similar videos recently and this is by far the best. Your attention to detail (even down to drill size) and full explanation of what you're doing and planning to do is exactly what novices such as myself need. Ten out of ten and thank you.
06:17 - nice safety squint and flinch technique especially when safety glasses were on top of your head! 🤣
Oh 😅😅😅😅😅
I keep a tube of red lipstick in my toolbox to dab on the edges of the electric boxes/ protrusions before doing the tamping for impressions method you used, leaving an easy to see red line to cut out. Chalk can also work for this if you can get it to stick to the protruding object. Happy DIYing😻
you can use an offcut of the plasterboard to rub on the edges of the boxes. It will leave a chalk line without the need to bang to hard to make dents.
@@Matt-yv4rm yes, brilliant!
Thanks so much :) now I have a use for all the lipsticks I never bother to use 😆
Thanks for the tip 😀
8:55 is a good idea. Extra support.
Mr. TCD has a talent for filming, assisting and managing to keep himself out of camera range. Seriously, Well Done to the both of you...ya'all did a beautiful job with the wall!!! It is interesting to see the differences in building methods between the US & the UK...I had cinder block walls when I lived in US Navy barracks...hated them...but now I can see how the wall would have been vastly improved with your batten and drywall process. Wishing you both great success with future projects!
Thanks so much 😀 I just can't seem to convince him to be in front of the camera 😅 I certainly love the cosier feel now.... can't wait to get this finished!
15:00 spot on 🙂
Other ways to do this is to put chalk around the edge of the back boxes, or a bit of ink if it won't dry too quick, or you can get things called SOCKITZ SPLATEZ that can put marks on the back of the board.
Lovely stuff thanks. If a bloke had done this, he would have done it all wearing the same outfit, including pants 🙂🙂
Ha...that's probably because they'd be able to get it done in one day 😅😅😅😅
Great work Vicki, when you do more boarding and if you decide to dot and dab then lay your boards horizontally, you can get a straight edge along the board so skirting sit true and then use a plumb rule to tap home 1200mm high, this is easier to do then trying to plumb a 2400mm board and them hoping you get a straight wall with it going in and out. Hope you understand my thinking there.
Well done Vikkie you're doing a fab job one tip I would give you is when you score the plasterboard with your knife then fold it over run your knife down the paper from the back of it you'll find it a lot easier to follow the natural crease in the fold. I'm really enjoying your journey although I'm not sure whats harder doing the work yourself or keeping my name sake off camera lol. Keep up the great work xx
13:59 This is why you run it horizontal. Then you tape it and bed the tape. Then you can thin the mud out and roll it on with a nappy roller. Then take a wide blade and smooth it out flat. Looks like a million bucks.
Battening the wall is what I did on my new extension and also the unlevel and untrue walls of the original house , dot and dab has damp (issues) , and foaming has unlevel issues, I've tried them all, battening takes longer to do but has a much better job result and has the added strength that you can fix OSB boards to the battens and plasterboards over the top as well if you want to hang cupboards or anything like tv or shelfs of them .
Brilliant Vickie that will look amazing when it’s done 😊
Nice work Vikkie, no matter what anyone says you can do it alot better than i could. Love the new look shorts and boots ha ha ha. Take Care.
Barry (the Wirral)
Very impressed with your knowledge and skill. Personally I always go for sand and cement. Potentially Messy but with the right person can’t go wrong
Excellent video and a professional look
I have always gone for taper edge that way you fill the join and get a perfect flat wall
Looks good, battens are a good shout for this area. In this heat I think you'd be looking at 20-30 mins tops work time with dot and dab, which is a bit frantic for us diyers! To save all the drill bit changes try the Bosch multi material bits, they aren't amzing wood or masonry bits but for framing onto a wall like this they are perfect, just bang through the lot with one bit now swapping and they do the job nicely. For marking your sockets use the old trick of rubbing a bit of pencil lead around the back boxes first, it saves a lot of banging and risk of damaging the boards. I've found an old tenon saw to be great for thin little cuts on plasterboard, pb eats Stanley blades so might as well save them and avoid the risk of crumbly edges on small cuts. Looks perfect though especially with the added support for the monster TV!
Amazing job, love seeing the updates and following your journey, I'm learning so much too!!👍⚒
I look forward to your videos every week :D Please keep them coming
Aww, thank you. Glad you enjoyed them 🥰
Vikki, you have a fantastic audience here! Experienced craftswomen and men willing to share their expereince and advice😊❤
I absolutely agree, the bigger my subscribers have grown, the more valuable tips and advice I have received and I truly appreciate it. Sharing my DIY journey has been surprisingly more beneficial than I first ever imagined it would be than when I started this channel 🤩
You've made the right decision!
Always score the paper at the back of the cut after you've snapped it it's much easier and a cleaner cut.
Great job done the Mr and Mrs TCD!
Cheers 😀
Well done Vicki, brilliant, have a think about using foam designed for attaching plasterboard, it's a similar process as using plasterboard adhesive, it will take a lot of time pressure of you,
Great video helpful and informative thanks good tip for getting electrical back box impressions on the sheet is to run a scrap of plaster board around all the rim edges and chalk them up leaves a much clearer mark of the sheet back ✊ best wishes Mikee
Excellent job vikkie and mr tcd ,love your videos vikkie you are awesome at everything you do ,nice one thankyou both of you keep em coming 👍🏻💪🏻
Lining paper might help with the wall when you have filled all the gaps and sanded them down. It might save on getting the wall plastered. Remember to fill the gaps on the joining paper if you use that method. Use a high-grade paper to hide any imperfections. 👍👍
I did this with metal gypliner system. You don’t much space and you can also add insulation behind
Great job Vikkie, so satisfying seeing it come together. Got to agree about timber in packs, we built a massive catio last year and so much of what turned up was useless, really frustrating.
Yes, it really is but sometimes it's hard to resist DIY store's flash sales (15% off) and the price of these pushed us up into the free delivery bracket as didnt want to pay delivery for the plasterboard 😆😆
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK Yeah, I do the same, wish I had a big enough vehicle to go get it myself .
@kimstockwell721 yep 🤣🤣🤣
OMG bloody amazing thank you soo much. I’m going to be following your method for our bathroom. ❤
I used to live in a flat that was dot and dabbed throughout. Trying to fix anything to the wall was a nightmare. Batons every time would be my advice.
Hi Vikkie starting to look real good, can’t wait to see it finished, two things when mounting the TV ideally the middle of the screen should be at eye level when you re sitting down also you mentioned about colours for the wall as you are mounting a Philips Ambilight it needs to be a white wall really otherwise the lighting won’t look right.
Great thinking! Mr TCD agrees.. I may try for grey or other neutral colour there and accent colour on the fire place 😀
Yet another very informative video.
Glad you found it was 🤩
them masonry screws look very good, saves a lot of rawlplug faff... i would have gone with battens too, I just don't trust myself to level plasterboard with dot and dab and I think battens are a better job all round. thanks for sharing and all is progressing well!
Thanks. I was worried I'd fail at getting it perfect on the wall woth d&b.... particularly with sockets too. I'll have to get it out of my system for some of the other walls 😆
I am battening my hallway. My first attempt at dot and dab in the the living room was horrible and knackering. The adhesive is really heavy to work with. Hoping mine goes as well as yours 😊
Sounds like we're both doing it in reverse! It'll be my turn soon 😅 Just take your time checking for level. I can tell the process is so much forgiving than when I've worked cement that goes off quick!
One thing I would say is put some larger wood running along the floor, then if you want to screw on your skirting board it will make it really easy.
Coming along nicely. Well done 👍
I Love Watching Your Video's Your Doing A Great Job. Have A Question The Heater you are putting in the Fire Place Area how Will you Get heat from their? And How Much Heat Do You expect to get? We have One in Ours and Get Very Little!!
Nice job! Work done right is work worth being proud of. I enjoyed watching
Thanks so much :)
When you fold the plasterboard over cut in the fold underneath it will give you a clean cut edge.
Try the Bosch Expert Multi Material drilll bits as they allow you to drill through the wood and then into the brick
Was looking to see if anyone had suggested these, have completely switched to these now.
Well done all round.😀👍
Thanks so much 😀
If I'm doing a wall that will have stuff hanging like tv's etc! I stud that bit then double up with 18mm osb then plasterboard at least you have a chance of getting some sort of a decent fixing 👍🏻
100% get a finish plasterer in, it's a real skill
I'll be doing dot and dab in my garage because I really cant be arsed to batten the whole thing!
Greets from your old Debs lot!
Loving the series. Have you decided what you're using to hang the TV yet?
Have done similar in the past with a timber frame followed by ply and plasterboard, bit more space behind to allow future working room.
On the penetrations to ceiling, i think i'm going with a fire sock next time, will still close the gap, but allow future access
Get a board lifter you can stick your foot in. Makes it so much easier.. It's best to use tape on tapered boards and skim square edge.
Thanks. I always found it the other way around while researching
Having dot and dabbed an entire house, I can say it’s hard work even with helper. When cutting close to a board edge, score both sides with knife before snapping and cleaning up. When cutting board well away from edges (normal cuts), after snapping, cut the backing paper from the back not the front, it’s easier.
Thanks. Yes, I've tried that method too (both sides) but admittedly with a full sheet, I got lazy as it's heavy to rotate 😅
40mm cellotex on 12.5mm plasterboard bonded with gripfix at 100mm intervals for the win.
Why? It’s an internal wall.
Even doing internal walls increases thermal efficiency and reduces losses between rooms. Plus creates a moisture membrane/barrier.
@@digitalfantazia3953 There are very little losses between rooms if the house is heated uniformly.
Looking good!
Hi ya, top top... Use blue roof battens as these are true square and true 25mm x 50mm. Find them much better quality.
Looks good & should definitely look all the better for being flat, not wavy 😉 Don’t ask how I know, ha hmm…
Haha.... that's what I was afraid of so took a long time triple checking 😆
I would have taken the opportunity to insulate any external wall with multifoil. Rather than timber battens metal firrings can be used, which can be adjusted to take up any deviations in plumb and provide a substantial fixing for the plasterboard.
Use the edge of a bit of scrap plasterboard and rub it on your boxes. It'll act almost like a crayon and leave a nice clear mark when you knock your sheet onto the boxes.
Thank you 😀
Dot and dab just seem a bit ropey to me for some reason - and I've noticed a lot of movement on some of our walls particularly when timber framed. Battens just seem a bit more mechanically "robust" albeit maybe more time consuming and costly?
I bet battens are cheaper. A £15 bag of adhesive is recommended per sheet. That's dear to me 😬
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK haha, yes good point - anything more than a quid feels expensive to me 😆
Im looking to mount a plasterboard wall on an exterior wall (just so i can insulate) do i need to remove the wallpaper and plaster or can i just put the batons straight on the wall?
tip for the boxes - add chalk to the edge of the boxes before tapping
I love that idea! I've always thought this would be great with lipstick 💄 🤣
Thee's a liquid/paste called machinist's blue. It takes a very long time to dry... Put a little on the rim of the boxes, and it WILL mark the back of the plasterboard... and everything else... effing stuff gets onto everything! You get the idea; avoid that stuff and find something that dries a bit faster.
Yeahhhh shorts at last 🎉🎉🎉🎉lol would multi material drill bits help ?
Haha... it's been VERY hot this week 🤩 (plus there's less brambles on our property, so I've felt a bit daring.... although the nettles have been getting me 😬
Well done you it's great to feel like summer at last nettles get you no matter what you do 🤬🤬🤬🤬
Use a bit of plaster board and chalk the front edge of back box’s as when you bang the plaster board on it will leave the mark better
Thanks for the tip!
I never buy wood in a pack. I open them up and get the better ones and cable tie them together in the right quantity. Just make sure you have a bar code on the new 'pack' 😉😉
Agree! Maybe I should start taking some back for an exchange lol
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK Bet it was wickes or B&Q that the wood came from - they store all their wood on end so all you get is bananas!
Pleased to see you're not mounting the TV at some neck-craning height! Looks good.
Thanks. Nope.. not doing that and may even lower 6" more than planned..
So begs the question, would you rather work on outdoor tasks or indoors???
Outdoors at the moment 😆😆😆
Dot and Dab is the quicker method for getting it on the wall, but needs experience to level the surface before the board becomes soggy from the moisture in the adhesive. Also takes days to dry properly as all the moisture has to go through the board, making the board very susceptible to damage (look at it wrong and it'll take a chunk out the surface, just because) until it's completely dry again. Also doesn't give much help in the future for cable runs.
you plumb a vertical surface and level horizontal ones...
👍
Cheers 😀
remember your batten spacing and that way hanging pictures and mirrors will be simple.
Stick to 400mm centres.
Thankfully my stud buddy works perfect on it 😀
If You get a fixing that doesn't bite push a zip tie into hole then screw the fixing back in job done 😉
2.4m is the height of an average house 😂.... we know what youe meant but still cracked me up
Good decision I reckon.
Thanks so much 😀
Nooice!
Cheers :)
If you have used square edged 12mm plasterboard I guess you will plaster the wall traditionally. That being the case, why did you fill all the screw holes and butt joints. And, why use a water based tape system? If you intend to tape fill the butt joints you should have used tapered edge boards. In addition, if you put a TV on the wall, normally that would be mounted about 1.2 metres off the flour. The board you screwed to the wall were too low and also too thin to take the normal 90mm mounting coach bolts.
Tape & fill should've used tapered edge boards. Square edge is for skim.
You're right by pre soaking the tape.
I just don't get why you've used SE boards if you're not skimming
I wanted to perfect my taping skills tbh and think getting the boards plumb was easier to straight edge. Have used tapered edges before for the ceiling.
Never batten out walls in your home with wood because it’s prone to shrinkage and in time all you’ll get is hairline cracks where the plasterboards butt up, if you want to use anything other than dot and dab use metal stud or metal furrings which won’t suffer shrinkage problems.
just use gypliner metal stud - watching that was painful
All im going to say is ""GYPLINER" or at the least ,timber battens with "GYPLINER" brackets .
The cost of those 😬😆
Board foam is so much quicker and easier
Is Mr TCD camera shy?
Sadly I've tried for years to get him in front of the camera with me because i think our videos would be so much better with extra banter, but I think I'm flogging a dead horse 😆😆😆
Just be very careful scoring a line dragging the knife towards your knee!! One slip and there is a lot of blood!!
Rather than faffing around with a 6’ level, Vicki, invest less money in a cheap laser.
Why don't you just render it then plaster it much faster and easier, roy.
True, but I like people's thinking about space for hidden cables later
Screws should be every 150mm when plasterboarding unless the regulations have changed. Also its better to just cut an inch or so off the bottom of the boards as the skirting will cover it anyway.
Apart from that good work 👍
Affix - not fix
Masonry nails would been good enough and lot cheaper
Remodeling is so much easier in the U.S. where the houses are made of wood.unless it is 150 years old like mine and the wood is petrified .lol. I would use construction glue as well as screws. Concrete block cannot be trusted to hold a fastener.
You have obviously not heard the story of the three little pigs!
You’re definitely not a beginner!
You shouldn’t prefill the joints.
Interesting... I thought I'd try it this time as so many people previously recommended the Vancouver Carpenter's method in my last video who prefills them
Would have been easier with mf imho.
Mf?
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK metal frame,it comes with a top and bottom track,and brackets that fix to he walls. Saves messing about with packers,and it won't rot.
I like your video but you talk way too much
brave using plasterboard.. or maybe i am just old fashioned but i hate plasterboard i much prefer "Real" plaster so much better to hang heavy things like TV's on as you go directly into the wall and have no void's ...