Why I DITCHED dot & dabbed plasterboard for a batten wall
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- Опубліковано 22 чер 2024
- Hi all 👋 After weeks... if not months of planning, I finally work on plasterboarding our TV media wall.
Originally, I discussed doing dot and dab - I bought all of the drywall adhesive.
But with all of the potential HDMI cables, etc, you advised me on battening the wall instead, so that's what I did.
Here's how things went!
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Gyproc Plasterboard sheets 2400mm x 1200mm 12.5mm square edge geni.us/fohZgN (amazon)
Spirit level geni.us/j9BKfb (amazon)
Stanley combi drill geni.us/fN8isKn (amazon)
Stanley impact driver geni.us/8vo6o15 (amazon)
Worx Switchdriver geni.us/ZmUD (amazon)
Werner work platform bench geni.us/3wx4a0K (amazon)
Masonry drill bit (5 and 6mm from this set) geni.us/Jljx (amazon)
Masonry concrete screws geni.us/29bMX (amazon)
Dewalt multi tool geni.us/TNwIv (amazon)
Assorted packers geni.us/xs8DAq (amazon)
Drywall screws 25mm geni.us/02Wuzm (amazon)
Bolster chisel set geni.us/Y7zZ0 (amazon)
Worx compact saw geni.us/APupt (amazon)
Amtech Plasterboard plane rasp geni.us/1HRiAW (amazon)
Wrist magnet geni.us/rwpBG (amazon)
Drywall bits geni.us/PbRF
Skim joint filler geni.us/vEAA (amazon)
Paper tape geni.us/nk9QT0F (amazon)
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How would you have finished this wall?
Dot and dab quicker and cheaper but battens are more precise. Cross battened is best if you have the space.
I have stuck 75mm PIR with "Mega Stik" Foam and then stuck a 12.5mm plasterboard ontop of that with this foam too.
Very easy and very quick and works!
Also minimal filling/joining too
Thanks so much for your thoughts 😀
Now that is very interesting!
GYPLINER
I battened my bathroom walls which were all over the place... I used a method suggested by Robin Clevett which was to build the batten frame on the floor, then screw it to the wall - this allows you to get the corners flat and plumb - and then basically have something holding your timber in place while you put in any packers you need. Also, a laser level would be your friend here - rather than using a conventional level to check for plumb.
Love Robin Clevett. He’s so particular. I wish he lived in or worked in Cardiff
Nice work Vikkie, no matter what anyone says you can do it alot better than i could. Love the new look shorts and boots ha ha ha. Take Care.
Barry (the Wirral)
I keep a tube of red lipstick in my toolbox to dab on the edges of the electric boxes/ protrusions before doing the tamping for impressions method you used, leaving an easy to see red line to cut out. Chalk can also work for this if you can get it to stick to the protruding object. Happy DIYing😻
you can use an offcut of the plasterboard to rub on the edges of the boxes. It will leave a chalk line without the need to bang to hard to make dents.
@@Matt-yv4rm yes, brilliant!
Thanks so much :) now I have a use for all the lipsticks I never bother to use 😆
Thanks for the tip 😀
Mr. TCD has a talent for filming, assisting and managing to keep himself out of camera range. Seriously, Well Done to the both of you...ya'all did a beautiful job with the wall!!! It is interesting to see the differences in building methods between the US & the UK...I had cinder block walls when I lived in US Navy barracks...hated them...but now I can see how the wall would have been vastly improved with your batten and drywall process. Wishing you both great success with future projects!
Thanks so much 😀 I just can't seem to convince him to be in front of the camera 😅 I certainly love the cosier feel now.... can't wait to get this finished!
Brilliant Vickie that will look amazing when it’s done 😊
06:17 - nice safety squint and flinch technique especially when safety glasses were on top of your head! 🤣
Oh 😅😅😅😅😅
I used to live in a flat that was dot and dabbed throughout. Trying to fix anything to the wall was a nightmare. Batons every time would be my advice.
You've made the right decision!
Lining paper might help with the wall when you have filled all the gaps and sanded them down. It might save on getting the wall plastered. Remember to fill the gaps on the joining paper if you use that method. Use a high-grade paper to hide any imperfections. 👍👍
OMG bloody amazing thank you soo much. I’m going to be following your method for our bathroom. ❤
Well done Vikkie you're doing a fab job one tip I would give you is when you score the plasterboard with your knife then fold it over run your knife down the paper from the back of it you'll find it a lot easier to follow the natural crease in the fold. I'm really enjoying your journey although I'm not sure whats harder doing the work yourself or keeping my name sake off camera lol. Keep up the great work xx
Looks good, battens are a good shout for this area. In this heat I think you'd be looking at 20-30 mins tops work time with dot and dab, which is a bit frantic for us diyers! To save all the drill bit changes try the Bosch multi material bits, they aren't amzing wood or masonry bits but for framing onto a wall like this they are perfect, just bang through the lot with one bit now swapping and they do the job nicely. For marking your sockets use the old trick of rubbing a bit of pencil lead around the back boxes first, it saves a lot of banging and risk of damaging the boards. I've found an old tenon saw to be great for thin little cuts on plasterboard, pb eats Stanley blades so might as well save them and avoid the risk of crumbly edges on small cuts. Looks perfect though especially with the added support for the monster TV!
100% get a finish plasterer in, it's a real skill
15:00 spot on 🙂
Other ways to do this is to put chalk around the edge of the back boxes, or a bit of ink if it won't dry too quick, or you can get things called SOCKITZ SPLATEZ that can put marks on the back of the board.
Lovely stuff thanks. If a bloke had done this, he would have done it all wearing the same outfit, including pants 🙂🙂
Ha...that's probably because they'd be able to get it done in one day 😅😅😅😅
Coming along nicely. Well done 👍
Excellent video and a professional look
I have always gone for taper edge that way you fill the join and get a perfect flat wall
Vikki, you have a fantastic audience here! Experienced craftswomen and men willing to share their expereince and advice😊❤
I absolutely agree, the bigger my subscribers have grown, the more valuable tips and advice I have received and I truly appreciate it. Sharing my DIY journey has been surprisingly more beneficial than I first ever imagined it would be than when I started this channel 🤩
Yet another very informative video.
Glad you found it was 🤩
Great work Vicki, when you do more boarding and if you decide to dot and dab then lay your boards horizontally, you can get a straight edge along the board so skirting sit true and then use a plumb rule to tap home 1200mm high, this is easier to do then trying to plumb a 2400mm board and them hoping you get a straight wall with it going in and out. Hope you understand my thinking there.
Looking good!
Well done Vicki, brilliant, have a think about using foam designed for attaching plasterboard, it's a similar process as using plasterboard adhesive, it will take a lot of time pressure of you,
Excellent job vikkie and mr tcd ,love your videos vikkie you are awesome at everything you do ,nice one thankyou both of you keep em coming 👍🏻💪🏻
I look forward to your videos every week :D Please keep them coming
Aww, thank you. Glad you enjoyed them 🥰
Nice job! Work done right is work worth being proud of. I enjoyed watching
Thanks so much :)
Great job done the Mr and Mrs TCD!
Cheers 😀
Always score the paper at the back of the cut after you've snapped it it's much easier and a cleaner cut.
Well done all round.😀👍
Thanks so much 😀
Greets from your old Debs lot!
Loving the series. Have you decided what you're using to hang the TV yet?
Have done similar in the past with a timber frame followed by ply and plasterboard, bit more space behind to allow future working room.
On the penetrations to ceiling, i think i'm going with a fire sock next time, will still close the gap, but allow future access
When you fold the plasterboard over cut in the fold underneath it will give you a clean cut edge.
Great job Vikkie, so satisfying seeing it come together. Got to agree about timber in packs, we built a massive catio last year and so much of what turned up was useless, really frustrating.
Yes, it really is but sometimes it's hard to resist DIY store's flash sales (15% off) and the price of these pushed us up into the free delivery bracket as didnt want to pay delivery for the plasterboard 😆😆
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK Yeah, I do the same, wish I had a big enough vehicle to go get it myself .
@kimstockwell721 yep 🤣🤣🤣
tip for the boxes - add chalk to the edge of the boxes before tapping
I love that idea! I've always thought this would be great with lipstick 💄 🤣
Hi Vikkie starting to look real good, can’t wait to see it finished, two things when mounting the TV ideally the middle of the screen should be at eye level when you re sitting down also you mentioned about colours for the wall as you are mounting a Philips Ambilight it needs to be a white wall really otherwise the lighting won’t look right.
Great thinking! Mr TCD agrees.. I may try for grey or other neutral colour there and accent colour on the fire place 😀
Having dot and dabbed an entire house, I can say it’s hard work even with helper. When cutting close to a board edge, score both sides with knife before snapping and cleaning up. When cutting board well away from edges (normal cuts), after snapping, cut the backing paper from the back not the front, it’s easier.
Thanks. Yes, I've tried that method too (both sides) but admittedly with a full sheet, I got lazy as it's heavy to rotate 😅
Use the edge of a bit of scrap plasterboard and rub it on your boxes. It'll act almost like a crayon and leave a nice clear mark when you knock your sheet onto the boxes.
Thank you 😀
them masonry screws look very good, saves a lot of rawlplug faff... i would have gone with battens too, I just don't trust myself to level plasterboard with dot and dab and I think battens are a better job all round. thanks for sharing and all is progressing well!
Thanks. I was worried I'd fail at getting it perfect on the wall woth d&b.... particularly with sockets too. I'll have to get it out of my system for some of the other walls 😆
40mm cellotex on 12.5mm plasterboard bonded with gripfix at 100mm intervals for the win.
Why? It’s an internal wall.
Even doing internal walls increases thermal efficiency and reduces losses between rooms. Plus creates a moisture membrane/barrier.
@@digitalfantazia3953 There are very little losses between rooms if the house is heated uniformly.
Get a board lifter you can stick your foot in. Makes it so much easier.. It's best to use tape on tapered boards and skim square edge.
Thanks. I always found it the other way around while researching
Thee's a liquid/paste called machinist's blue. It takes a very long time to dry... Put a little on the rim of the boxes, and it WILL mark the back of the plasterboard... and everything else... effing stuff gets onto everything! You get the idea; avoid that stuff and find something that dries a bit faster.
Try the Bosch Expert Multi Material drilll bits as they allow you to drill through the wood and then into the brick
Was looking to see if anyone had suggested these, have completely switched to these now.
I never buy wood in a pack. I open them up and get the better ones and cable tie them together in the right quantity. Just make sure you have a bar code on the new 'pack' 😉😉
Agree! Maybe I should start taking some back for an exchange lol
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK Bet it was wickes or B&Q that the wood came from - they store all their wood on end so all you get is bananas!
Nooice!
Cheers :)
Pleased to see you're not mounting the TV at some neck-craning height! Looks good.
Thanks. Nope.. not doing that and may even lower 6" more than planned..
Looks good & should definitely look all the better for being flat, not wavy 😉 Don’t ask how I know, ha hmm…
Haha.... that's what I was afraid of so took a long time triple checking 😆
remember your batten spacing and that way hanging pictures and mirrors will be simple.
Stick to 400mm centres.
Thankfully my stud buddy works perfect on it 😀
👍
Cheers 😀
Dot and dab just seem a bit ropey to me for some reason - and I've noticed a lot of movement on some of our walls particularly when timber framed. Battens just seem a bit more mechanically "robust" albeit maybe more time consuming and costly?
I bet battens are cheaper. A £15 bag of adhesive is recommended per sheet. That's dear to me 😬
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK haha, yes good point - anything more than a quid feels expensive to me 😆
Use a bit of plaster board and chalk the front edge of back box’s as when you bang the plaster board on it will leave the mark better
Thanks for the tip!
Yeahhhh shorts at last 🎉🎉🎉🎉lol would multi material drill bits help ?
Haha... it's been VERY hot this week 🤩 (plus there's less brambles on our property, so I've felt a bit daring.... although the nettles have been getting me 😬
Well done you it's great to feel like summer at last nettles get you no matter what you do 🤬🤬🤬🤬
Dot and Dab is the quicker method for getting it on the wall, but needs experience to level the surface before the board becomes soggy from the moisture in the adhesive. Also takes days to dry properly as all the moisture has to go through the board, making the board very susceptible to damage (look at it wrong and it'll take a chunk out the surface, just because) until it's completely dry again. Also doesn't give much help in the future for cable runs.
you plumb a vertical surface and level horizontal ones...
Good decision I reckon.
Thanks so much 😀
So begs the question, would you rather work on outdoor tasks or indoors???
Outdoors at the moment 😆😆😆
just use gypliner metal stud - watching that was painful
All im going to say is ""GYPLINER" or at the least ,timber battens with "GYPLINER" brackets .
The cost of those 😬😆
Is Mr TCD camera shy?
Sadly I've tried for years to get him in front of the camera with me because i think our videos would be so much better with extra banter, but I think I'm flogging a dead horse 😆😆😆
Affix - not fix
Rather than faffing around with a 6’ level, Vicki, invest less money in a cheap laser.
Why don't you just render it then plaster it much faster and easier, roy.
True, but I like people's thinking about space for hidden cables later
You’re definitely not a beginner!
You shouldn’t prefill the joints.
Interesting... I thought I'd try it this time as so many people previously recommended the Vancouver Carpenter's method in my last video who prefills them
Remodeling is so much easier in the U.S. where the houses are made of wood.unless it is 150 years old like mine and the wood is petrified .lol. I would use construction glue as well as screws. Concrete block cannot be trusted to hold a fastener.
You have obviously not heard the story of the three little pigs!
Would have been easier with mf imho.
Mf?
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK metal frame,it comes with a top and bottom track,and brackets that fix to he walls. Saves messing about with packers,and it won't rot.
brave using plasterboard.. or maybe i am just old fashioned but i hate plasterboard i much prefer "Real" plaster so much better to hang heavy things like TV's on as you go directly into the wall and have no void's ...