Appreciate the video. Simple and to the point! Very accurate and i do agree on the mobil 1 for everything. But this last route my 04 kodiak 450 got k&n oil filter and valvoline oil only cuz it was available
Krystian, only 1 in a 1000 people would do this for the next owner. This is why I watch your videos. Maybe you could do an update on the pickup. Rust management and mechanics. Thanks.
I'm sucker. When I go to buy stuff, people lie and hide things. I could never do that. I would feel really bad if something broke on the first week. I enjoy doing this work so why not fix it for the next owner.
Good video, to check oil on these you gotta unscrew dip stick wipe it and dip it back into the engine without screwing it back in, thats what the manual says.
this guy.. never herd anyone actually say thousandths, just shows how much he works around real mechanics, you need to take tolerances more seriously when your dealing with tenths of a thou, yeah its true feeler gauges only go to 1 thou increments, but thats where you need to feel whether its to tight or to lose and make small adjustments to fine tune it.
I got the same Yamaha and it backfires when trying to fire it up. it doesn't start. Carb is leaking fuel from the overflow tube. I assume the float is stuck. I assume i need to follow your steps to remove the tank and all and get in there? did u ever clean up this carb?
Hey Trout Junkie, A friend and I just checked out our valves, mine were tight like your video said it would be. I adjusted and everything went well, but now when I go into drive or reverse the machine bogs out. I can get it running for very short distances but it eventually bogs out, no backfiring or other odd sounds. Would this happen if the valves were opened too wide?
No. No way valve being too loose or tight would stall the engine. You may loose 10% of power with valves too tight but if too loose, you would hear a rattle,ticking, thats it. These valves travel 1/4 of an inch. You would have to have them loose by half that fot them no to deliver mixture for ignition
Thanks for the quick reply! There is no ticking or rattle, so that's not the problem then. I may have pinched the gas-line or something foolish when I put it back together.
Im looking for the top dead center through the opening as you explained. there are two marks. a line and a T, which one of them should be aligned with the crankcase stationary groove?
I have a 2000 kodiak 400 that is leaking fuel. I try to throttle it in gear and it limps forward and doesn't have normal power. Any thoughts on what it is? Carb related?
jayonez 13 708cc is the best made regardless how hot they get, that’s what the fan and coolant are for...my buddy and I would go on 10-12 hrs rides, he had a 708 and I have a 421. Never any issues...
The american craving for more, more cc's specifically. Most poor countries use what is sufficient or just right. Here though in America it's bigger badder faster harder more you know right, just like the ole lady said. That was his point of the statement, not because he's tarded.
Astro Camper except the Kodiak doesn't have a wet clutch so it wouldn't matter much. It has a CVT. Nice try trying to shit on somebody else's video, but he did use the wet clutch oil either way. Congrats on failing.
+88silvergt Actually the Kodiak's with the Ultramatic transmissions like this one in the video have a wet clutch, that's why you'll never smoke the belt because the wet clutch is what slips, not the belt. I've replaced lots of wet clutches on the Kodiak's, and Grizzly's ! Usually the belt will never slip as long as the belt doesn't get wet, and belt case stays some what clean.
WRONG. Yamaha (at least in my '03 Kodiak manual) clearly states to use conventional (not synthetic) motor oil as there is a WET CLUTCH (their words) in the transmission drives system which uses a wet clutch (their words again...)
Appreciate the video. Simple and to the point! Very accurate and i do agree on the mobil 1 for everything. But this last route my 04 kodiak 450 got k&n oil filter and valvoline oil only cuz it was available
great video thanks, just bought one today, gonna run through it
Thank-you such an great video.... I learned lot.... dealing with a Timing check ....
Excellent video
Wow, that is good engineering.
Krystian, only 1 in a 1000 people would do this for the next owner. This is why I watch your videos. Maybe you could do an update on the pickup. Rust management and mechanics. Thanks.
I'm sucker. When I go to buy stuff, people lie and hide things. I could never do that. I would feel really bad if something broke on the first week. I enjoy doing this work so why not fix it for the next owner.
Good video, to check oil on these you gotta unscrew dip stick wipe it and dip it back into the engine without screwing it back in, thats what the manual says.
this guy.. never herd anyone actually say thousandths, just shows how much he works around real mechanics, you need to take tolerances more seriously when your dealing with tenths of a thou, yeah its true feeler gauges only go to 1 thou increments, but thats where you need to feel whether its to tight or to lose and make small adjustments to fine tune it.
Will this make the four wheeler start hard if the timing is off? Mine has a hesitation frequently before it will start.
how often do you replace the differential oil and water coolant fluid?
Becarful the oil stick should check unscrewed as it says in service manual you have to put more oil
I got the same Yamaha and it backfires when trying to fire it up. it doesn't start. Carb is leaking fuel from the overflow tube. I assume the float is stuck. I assume i need to follow your steps to remove the tank and all and get in there? did u ever clean up this carb?
I have 03 Yamaha Kodiak 400 4x4 and i think the valves where never adjusted. I bought it preowned.
Have you ever replaced the woodruff key on this. I have a grizzly 450 that I'm having trouble with
No
you never put fully synthetic oil of that nature into the kodiak. it will destroy the transmission.
The front diff is measured, not topped off.
Awesome, what is the coolant you use, and kind of oil for the differential? Thank you.
Is 550 grizzly the same
What tires and rims pls
Hey Trout Junkie,
A friend and I just checked out our valves, mine were tight like your video said it would be. I adjusted and everything went well, but now when I go into drive or reverse the machine bogs out. I can get it running for very short distances but it eventually bogs out, no backfiring or other odd sounds.
Would this happen if the valves were opened too wide?
No. No way valve being too loose or tight would stall the engine. You may loose 10% of power with valves too tight but if too loose, you would hear a rattle,ticking, thats it. These valves travel 1/4 of an inch. You would have to have them loose by half that fot them no to deliver mixture for ignition
Thanks for the quick reply!
There is no ticking or rattle, so that's not the problem then.
I may have pinched the gas-line or something foolish when I put it back together.
what year is that kodiak..?.... thank im lookin for one on cl....
mikeatc33
I CSX
how did you actually adjust the valve? That nut on top?
Yes. Brake it loose and spin the screw with filler gauge between till its tight
both valves are adjusted at the top dead center? I assume you check it through the spark plug hole with a screwdriver?
You can feel it cranking by hand. Compresses the air
Im looking for the top dead center through the opening as you explained. there are two marks. a line and a T, which one of them should be aligned with the crankcase stationary groove?
@@Sean-Aviation T
@@shawnmcclure7282 The line guy. The t itself just there because it specifies the fact of the check line beside it
Which one is the top dead center mark?
It's got T stamped next to the line
Hey there bud I can’t Figure out this feeler gauge what were your numbers on the intake on the gauge and the exust thank you
Intake next to carb should be .004 max. .005 should not fit
Exhaust should be .007
Astro Camper opps i went .005 on the intake and exhaust I want .008
So wat is if u run out of tread on the lock nut
Imposible. You are only turning half a turn. Full turn gives you .015 gap
That's fine. Always better to be on a high side. The gap gets tighter as the valve seats wear in.
did you remove the side fender to be able to adjust the exhaust valve? no room at all. trying to figure out how to get in there
you can if you want man its your choice i did remove the fender for more room
Is this 550 if not is the procedure the same
450. Not sure but they are all the same
I have a 2000 kodiak 400 that is leaking fuel. I try to throttle it in gear and it limps forward and doesn't have normal power. Any thoughts on what it is? Carb related?
aaron jacobsen old gas
Is it the same for the grizzly 700
Not sure
Pea yes it’s the same
Not the 16-18 Grizzly
It’s a horror to adjust valves on the 708 bucket and shim job
jayonez 13 why is it a horror?
jayonez 13 708cc is the best made regardless how hot they get, that’s what the fan and coolant are for...my buddy and I would go on 10-12 hrs rides, he had a 708 and I have a 421. Never any issues...
Only in America? It’s Japanese
The american craving for more, more cc's specifically. Most poor countries use what is sufficient or just right. Here though in America it's bigger badder faster harder more you know right, just like the ole lady said. That was his point of the statement, not because he's tarded.
You do realize thar you are suppose to use an oil designed for the wet clutch in the motor.
Yes. and that is the motorcycle Mobil 1 oil I used which is made for wet clutches.
Astro Camper except the Kodiak doesn't have a wet clutch so it wouldn't matter much. It has a CVT. Nice try trying to shit on somebody else's video, but he did use the wet clutch oil either way. Congrats on failing.
That was obviously for Dfuller lol
+88silvergt Actually the Kodiak's with the Ultramatic transmissions like this one in the video have a wet clutch, that's why you'll never smoke the belt because the wet clutch is what slips, not the belt. I've replaced lots of wet clutches on the Kodiak's, and Grizzly's ! Usually the belt will never slip as long as the belt doesn't get wet, and belt case stays some what clean.
WRONG. Yamaha (at least in my '03 Kodiak manual) clearly states to use conventional (not synthetic) motor oil as there is a WET CLUTCH (their words) in the transmission drives system which uses a wet clutch (their words again...)