Lego should sell those and more trains under a revived Lego Trains Theme. Maybe for older audiences like 16+? At that point in life, people get more into model railroading, so they take safety seriously. Plus, I’m sure Lego has seen how far people will go with trains.
Im new to the whole 9v speed controler thing trying to connect my power functions motor to the speed controller. Things I wanted to know, are, what kind of ac/adapter plug dose the speed controler use? And where can I get that 9V to Power functions conversion cable, what part number is it? I've been trying to find out just some of this basic info for hours now. It's rediculus how scarce this info is. All the other videos I've watched don't even mention that you need a conversion cable for the thing. They just assume you know this stuff already.
thanks for the video! I've just taken my old 9V trains out from storage and unfortunately I'm running into a heap of problems. I've got 3 motors: - one barely runs and loses power after running for a very short while - one is just absurdly fast and derails any train I'm attaching it to - one is slightly less fast, but still derails my old 4558 Meteoliner I'm really unsure about the problems... I'm wondering if my regulator is broken.
I don't think you even mentioned one of the biggest downsides to 9V trains: If you want to run multiple trains, you can only control them all at the same time and same speed, right? So you can't even have one rest at a station while another keeps running. Either they all go, or they all stay.
I wish...i only wish I knew where to buy such stuff I so want 9v power for my trains I would just need to find train motors and that's it I can sort out the rails
Bricklink is your friend. Search up 9V train tracks and you will be greeted to all of the parts you need, sold by many independent vendors online. Same goes for literally any other Lego part you need in any condition. Sealed, brand new, good condition, bad condition, etc.
He awnsered this in the video. The trains do not come with LEDs, so you would need to power them with other sources. The most convenient is Lego Power Functions LED lighting kit. While the Lego 9V system and Power Functions system is largely incompatible, they are made compatible via the Lego Power Functions Extension Cord. This extension cord has a Grey Power Functions style plug, and a Light Grey Power Functions/9V plug. The light grey plug can connect to the top of 9V connectors, such as the 9V train motor. You can connect the extension cable to the top of the motor, and the other end to the PF LEDs, and it will draw the power through the motor, to the lights.
I really want 9V because the Night Stormer custom 6 car Lego train project I'm doing has a problem: the battery pack SITS TOO HIGH! I hate that! The loco has to be 5 bricks tall instead of 4 like the cars. Also I have 9V wires and I have no clue why
If you build the track too long the controller will not have the far end of the track powered. You will need to get another controller or long 9v wires lol.
Hey I have a ques for you. I just got a mint 9v lot w regulator and AC plug. I don't have a full track yet. If I hook it up to a few straight 9v tracks, the light flashes green and the train doesn't move. If I wiggle the AC plug, where it meets the regulator, it stays green and the train moves. Is it supposed to move with an incomplete track, or do I need a full loop?
Basic circuitry. An open circuit does not flow, it meets too much resistance (The air), and will not move. A closed circuit flows freely. It will not work until the track completes a circuit, so it is closed. This is why sticking metal into outlets gets nasty, your closing the circuit, much like a plug would. Otherwise its exposed to the air, which has too much resistance to conduct electricity.
Well talking about your problem with the deadzone on your track and the genral problem with power supply. I think the problem is that you have the contacts for your inner track connected the other way around and you need to reconnect them so they are arranged the same as the contacts on the outer track. Then you won't even need the second speed regulator that you have connected. The way that you have it connected now just short-circuts your electric circut. Is that possible, or did you think the polarity through otherwise? ;-) Anyway the way that you describe your problem would imply that what I said before with the wrong contact polarity is the case.
That's true and longer the track, the more voltage and current needed. So eventually it will need a second pickup line connected if the track is long enough.
How would it work if you were to change the speed on one of the Regulators would you also need to need to change the speed on the other Regulator as well?
So I can connect my power functions lights to the 9v train motor using a power functions extension cable. So the lights connect to the Power functions end of the extension cable and the other end of the extension cable connects to the 9v motor?
So I can power both my loops with only 1 regulator and 1 wall adapter. All I need is 2 train track contact wires that both stack ontop of each other on the regulator. Do you think I will have any problems using copper tape straight track? I am still going to use 9v curves but for all the straight track I will just buy some copper foiling tape and apply that to the track. Thanks again
+JR Bricks Yes, I think you should be fine. The copper foil works fine for conducting, just make sure all of your contact point between copper and 9V are in working order.
+JR Bricks Oh, I forgot to mention how you do that; on the track connection wires, there are two ends connecting to the tracks. One has a little plastic cylinder on its wire. When you attach the wires to one track, you can put it on however you like. If you want the other track to go in the other direction, make sure you put the end with the plastic part on the other side of the track. That way it will make the second loop go in the other direction. If that's still confusing I can take some pictures explaining it better.
+CoolBricksSayHello Also, is it possible to not have any genuine 9v track and only copper track or do you need at least 1 piece of real 9v track? I'm not sure whether to go out and buy 32 pieces of 9v curved tracks or to just use copper foil on the whole thing? I already have curved tracks so I don't really want to go out and buy more curved track if I don't need it. If i have to i might get two pieces, one for each loop. That way my connector wires are connected to real 9v track.
I can see the part about never having to resupply electricity. Reduced size, too, a great pro: you can build tiny engines, no need to worry about room for a battery box and an IR receiver. But is weight not good in a locomotive? The heavier one is, the more cars it can pull. As for speed, have you run any tests? I have a few 9V motors and I am now wondering whether I should get some more - as well as more 9V track.
Hm, the weight is a good point. I usually find that traction is more of an issue than weight. Even if a locomotive has enough weight, the wheels slipping is usually what hinders it. I haven't run any tests, but the 9v motors certainly go quite fast. With a larger locomotive and train, I think that torque-wise the PF motors have an advantage. That said, I don't really know for sure.
Traction, weight, friction/slipping, torque, speed - so many parameters even toys such as these! :) I will have to make two identical tracks and run two identical trains on them myself, one, PF, one, 9V. And hope that will lead to some obvious, and final, conclusions. Irrespective of the results of such comparative runs, though, there will be situations when a 9V engine is the best option as well as there will be others when PF only should be considered - indoors vs outdoors, for instance, short vs long, inability to replace/recharge batteries vs time and means to perform any operations on the train, etc.
I really wish lego would bring these back, they’re just so much more reliable than power functions and powerup
Thanks for this video, this really helps a lot of people who don't understand 9v trains and how they work.
+JR Bricks You're very welcome! :)
Very Helpful in discerning the differences.
Lego should sell 9v engines, power block and rails with16 plus.
Lego should sell those and more trains under a revived Lego Trains Theme. Maybe for older audiences like 16+? At that point in life, people get more into model railroading, so they take safety seriously. Plus, I’m sure Lego has seen how far people will go with trains.
The power functions extension part number is 8886
Im new to the whole 9v speed controler thing trying to connect my power functions motor to the speed controller. Things I wanted to know, are, what kind of ac/adapter plug dose the speed controler use? And where can I get that 9V to Power functions conversion cable, what part number is it? I've been trying to find out just some of this basic info for hours now. It's rediculus how scarce this info is. All the other videos I've watched don't even mention that you need a conversion cable for the thing. They just assume you know this stuff already.
fun fact: if you get an adapter with adjustable voltage you can make the trains go even faster (or slower if you want)
thanks for the video!
I've just taken my old 9V trains out from storage and unfortunately I'm running into a heap of problems.
I've got 3 motors:
- one barely runs and loses power after running for a very short while
- one is just absurdly fast and derails any train I'm attaching it to
- one is slightly less fast, but still derails my old 4558 Meteoliner
I'm really unsure about the problems... I'm wondering if my regulator is broken.
Keep em
I like the 9-volts better. Much better
Me too. But I think I’ll still end up with all types.
I don't think you even mentioned one of the biggest downsides to 9V trains: If you want to run multiple trains, you can only control them all at the same time and same speed, right?
So you can't even have one rest at a station while another keeps running. Either they all go, or they all stay.
Thanks! Good info bro!
I wish...i only wish I knew where to buy such stuff I so want 9v power for my trains I would just need to find train motors and that's it I can sort out the rails
Bricklink is your friend. Search up 9V train tracks and you will be greeted to all of the parts you need, sold by many independent vendors online.
Same goes for literally any other Lego part you need in any condition. Sealed, brand new, good condition, bad condition, etc.
I‘ll have a layout with around 130 tracks. Will one 9V travo be enough to power the whole layout if there is only one circle? Great video btw :)
Love to set up with 9volt rails. Still clueless where to start
Can it also power up LEDs on the lego train?
He awnsered this in the video.
The trains do not come with LEDs, so you would need to power them with other sources.
The most convenient is Lego Power Functions LED lighting kit.
While the Lego 9V system and Power Functions system is largely incompatible, they are made compatible via the Lego Power Functions Extension Cord.
This extension cord has a Grey Power Functions style plug, and a Light Grey Power Functions/9V plug. The light grey plug can connect to the top of 9V connectors, such as the 9V train motor.
You can connect the extension cable to the top of the motor, and the other end to the PF LEDs, and it will draw the power through the motor, to the lights.
I wonder what if I touch the rail,will I get electroucted?
Joxel marico lol
A bit late, but I only ever had been shocked once while plugging the track power wire to the current controller.
I really want 9V because the Night Stormer custom 6 car Lego train project I'm doing has a problem: the battery pack SITS TOO HIGH! I hate that! The loco has to be 5 bricks tall instead of 4 like the cars. Also I have 9V wires and I have no clue why
AngrySlime11 you can buy 9v from eBay or bricklink. Also I saw video where new tracts converts to work with 9v
have the metro liner and the large black my own train with some cars
why use a second regulator? Use booster cables to channel the power from where the trains run the fastest to where it is weak i.e. a dead zone
If you build the track too long the controller will not have the far end of the track powered. You will need to get another controller or long 9v wires lol.
Hey I have a ques for you. I just got a mint 9v lot w regulator and AC plug. I don't have a full track yet. If I hook it up to a few straight 9v tracks, the light flashes green and the train doesn't move. If I wiggle the AC plug, where it meets the regulator, it stays green and the train moves. Is it supposed to move with an incomplete track, or do I need a full loop?
Basic circuitry. An open circuit does not flow, it meets too much resistance (The air), and will not move. A closed circuit flows freely.
It will not work until the track completes a circuit, so it is closed.
This is why sticking metal into outlets gets nasty, your closing the circuit, much like a plug would. Otherwise its exposed to the air, which has too much resistance to conduct electricity.
Well talking about your problem with the deadzone on your track and the genral problem with power supply. I think the problem is that you have the contacts for your inner track connected the other way around and you need to reconnect them so they are arranged the same as the contacts on the outer track. Then you won't even need the second speed regulator that you have connected. The way that you have it connected now just short-circuts your electric circut. Is that possible, or did you think the polarity through otherwise? ;-) Anyway the way that you describe your problem would imply that what I said before with the wrong contact polarity is the case.
You have a good point and you are wright.
Maybe you should make a video on youtube
That's true and longer the track, the more voltage and current needed. So eventually it will need a second pickup line connected if the track is long enough.
Wish I could get my hands on 1 :(
How would it work if you were to change the speed on one of the Regulators would you also need to need to change the speed on the other Regulator as well?
It just goes slower/faster on the portion of track each regulator controls
Hello, can you tell me the number of the cable at 3:30? One that connects 9v to power functions?
I think its ; LEGO Extension Cable (20cm) Set 8886
So I can connect my power functions lights to the 9v train motor using a power functions extension cable. So the lights connect to the Power functions end of the extension cable and the other end of the extension cable connects to the 9v motor?
+JR Bricks That's right! :) Great, isn't it? You can even power PF motors using the 9V motor, which I did in my maersk train.
So I can power both my loops with only 1 regulator and 1 wall adapter. All I need is 2 train track contact wires that both stack ontop of each other on the regulator. Do you think I will have any problems using copper tape straight track? I am still going to use 9v curves but for all the straight track I will just buy some copper foiling tape and apply that to the track. Thanks again
+JR Bricks Yes, I think you should be fine. The copper foil works fine for conducting, just make sure all of your contact point between copper and 9V are in working order.
+CoolBricksSayHello Is it possible to run both trains in different directions or is that only possible with two regulators?
+JR Bricks Oh, I forgot to mention how you do that; on the track connection wires, there are two ends connecting to the tracks. One has a little plastic cylinder on its wire. When you attach the wires to one track, you can put it on however you like. If you want the other track to go in the other direction, make sure you put the end with the plastic part on the other side of the track. That way it will make the second loop go in the other direction. If that's still confusing I can take some pictures explaining it better.
+CoolBricksSayHello thanks, yeah some pictures would be great :) I just ordered all the stuff I need off bricklink, can't wait!!
+CoolBricksSayHello Also, is it possible to not have any genuine 9v track and only copper track or do you need at least 1 piece of real 9v track? I'm not sure whether to go out and buy 32 pieces of 9v curved tracks or to just use copper foil on the whole thing? I already have curved tracks so I don't really want to go out and buy more curved track if I don't need it. If i have to i might get two pieces, one for each loop. That way my connector wires are connected to real 9v track.
can you use rc train decorative sides on a 9v motor? thankful for answer!
Yes, but you have to bend them a little
What is the 9v train motor number?
It is part # 590, also it is sometimes referenced as having part # 70358
What are some advantages over power functions?
No batteries. Faster. More reliable. Smaller. Less weight. Goes on and on lol
I can see the part about never having to resupply electricity. Reduced size, too, a great pro: you can build tiny engines, no need to worry about room for a battery box and an IR receiver. But is weight not good in a locomotive? The heavier one is, the more cars it can pull. As for speed, have you run any tests?
I have a few 9V motors and I am now wondering whether I should get some more - as well as more 9V track.
Hm, the weight is a good point. I usually find that traction is more of an issue than weight. Even if a locomotive has enough weight, the wheels slipping is usually what hinders it. I haven't run any tests, but the 9v motors certainly go quite fast. With a larger locomotive and train, I think that torque-wise the PF motors have an advantage. That said, I don't really know for sure.
Traction, weight, friction/slipping, torque, speed - so many parameters even toys such as these! :)
I will have to make two identical tracks and run two identical trains on them myself, one, PF, one, 9V. And hope that will lead to some obvious, and final, conclusions.
Irrespective of the results of such comparative runs, though, there will be situations when a 9V engine is the best option as well as there will be others when PF only should be considered - indoors vs outdoors, for instance, short vs long, inability to replace/recharge batteries vs time and means to perform any operations on the train, etc.
Is there a Australian plug transformer
Yes
Can you electrocute with the 9v track?
Nope, it's designed to be safe to use.
CoolBricksSayHello oh ok that's a relief
About how much are the 9v tracks
Will smith pretty expensive. I don't have any 9v track but I do have foiling tape which works pretty well, just a little time consuming but worth it!!
straights ~2€ curves ~1€ in germany at least but i bet its like that everywhere
@@majstealth about right
@@trijetz3562 fucking 4years already again..^^
@@majstealth lol
waffle waffle to much