Nice video, but when you're showing off the guillotine this is really not how one should handle film...you'll get fingerprints all over it and see it in your scans! Then you'll have to use a film cleaning solution (like Pec-12) to get the oils off. Use gloves and/or handle it only by the edges at all times! Also, changing the Target Size, rather than just setting the scan resolution, has two drawbacks: 1. You have more complicated math to figure out the actual scan resolution. By maxing out the target size I think you don't realize that you are also forcing a super high scan resolution that you said earlier was unnecessary. When you set the target size to 36" high (enormous for a 35mm scan) the software is actually ALSO scaling the scan resolution in the background to create a file with that target size and resolution. If a 35mm negative is ~1" high, then the 36" high target size is 36x that. So it is actually scanning at 10,800dpi (36x300dpi) to get an output file of 36x57" at 300dpi . This is unnecessarily enormous and way beyond the actual resolution of the film grain and the scanner (which is interpolating at that point). If you set the scanner resolution to say 2400 or 3200dpi (a setting that gives you a nice large image dimension to work with) and leave the target size alone, then you can scale the resultant file for print/output however you want up to your minimum output resolution of say, 300dpi. Generally I like using 3200dpi for my scans. Then I know I can get at least a 10x enlargement of the original. A 35mm neg will print up to about 10x15" at 320dpi, or a little larger at 300dpi. Even with very fine grain film you can't go too much larger than that with 35mm or it will start to look soft or grainy in print. 2. As you said, you have to set your Target Size for every frame. This is a pain, and way slower than leaving the target size alone and resizing your file later. I say this as a constructive criticism - I also a run a college art department media lab with this same scanner. I was happy when I came across your videos. Thanks for making these!
Great advice and great techniques, thanks for sharing. Totally agree with the gloves, I mention that when loading the scanner tray. This was a throw away film strip. And I wanted to move quickly for the video. But you’re right, I should have mentioned to wear gloves when working with the guillotine.
For any future audience, @11:37 you said that you have to change scan settings for each image individually, fortunately thats not true. You can select all or some of the images (just by shift+ click)
I can't believe the film holders you use are not glassless. I have the EPSON Perfection V600 Photo scanner and it came with glassless film holders. This eliminates the biggest source or risk of dust. Did EPSON release glassless film holders for the V850 after this video was made?
What's a decent "target size" you recommend scanning at to avoid the long wait times? Picture a situation of 12 rolls to scan and mostly all of them are recreational shots. Thanks (;
The is a very subjective question :) It really comes down to what you are planing to do with the files. Faster scans are usually smaller dimensions or lower resolution, so you’ll be sacrificing quality for speed. To get a good quality image it takes time. But if you are not looking for anything too spectacular I might go for an 8x10 range.
@@CarlosSanchezPhotography Right, testing out various options for each photo has proven to be best. I'm running into a problem when I increase the target size to the max.... After it finishes scanning, no program is able to open it to view it. I understand these individual files are as large as 2.93 GB, is my laptop just week (not considered a week laptop) and just need a desktop? Or is there a program you recommend that can handle this? *note: I've trred windows photo viewer, bridge, lightroom, photoshop. Even the thumbnails of the files are not viewable. Thanks for your help
@@joshualarkin3802 let’s get all the details so we can properly diagnose the issue. What are the exact settings you are choosing for “max”? And what file format are you scanning to?
hello how are you, i just started using the scanner and I've encountered a problem, it was working fine when scanning picture would automatically gets separated and stuff like in 9:35 but after a few scanning it stopped dividing them and now I'm stuck with the whole scanning image and tray like in 9:21. any idea how to fix this?
@@CarlosSanchezPhotography ok so the version you are using is working with me, but the Epson scan 2 or smartscan software stopped functioning and is giving me the things i told u before. If u have any idea how to fix it let me know plss
Hi Carlos, the emulsion side the way you load it has the film lettering "backwards". If you see on the the holder you have ABC and CBA "mirrored". The mirrored is the wrong way according to Epson. Or am i making a huge mistake? Cheers
It might depend on the model you are using. I know the older versions were top load trays, and the 850 has bottom load trays. Traditionally though the rule of thumb was to have the emulsion face the scanner. But even if it was mirrored, it’d be an easy fix in post.
@@CarlosSanchezPhotography Thank you for the fast reply. I have the Epson V850 Pro. How bad is scanning with the emulsion on the wrong way? Does it affects quality?
@@carlosfelicio4863 in general you're missing out on a small amount of sharpness by scanning them mirrored, but most of the time that only happens if not using a tray, and it is not really noticeable. If scanning at a good resolution with a tray it should be fine either way.
I loaded all my negatives with the emulsion side (dull side) facing upwards like shown in your video and after examining over 100 scans in photoshop I noticed all my scans turned out inverted. :(
Not sure what scanner you have, but a couple of things to note. The reason for mine being up is because for my model of scanner the tray gets flipped so the emulsion would then be down. On the v700 model the tray loads differently and you would load it down. The most important thing is to have the emulsion face the scanning device. Also, the importance of this is not for orientation but for the quality of the scan. Emulsion to the scanner will give you a better result. For me, if that means having to flip it in post, that's a minor thing.
I have the latest Epsom V850 with the software of Scan 2 and I can't find instructions on you tube on how to use the new software Can you help me. Thanks Taly
This workflow is incredibly SLOW! I have 5400 negatives to scan. With the techniques shown in this video, I'll need to work continuously until the year 2200 to finish. Not gonna happen.
Very good, but I would've liked to see more about dust and scratch removal.
Thanks, that would make a great topic for another video.
Nice video, but when you're showing off the guillotine this is really not how one should handle film...you'll get fingerprints all over it and see it in your scans! Then you'll have to use a film cleaning solution (like Pec-12) to get the oils off. Use gloves and/or handle it only by the edges at all times!
Also, changing the Target Size, rather than just setting the scan resolution, has two drawbacks:
1. You have more complicated math to figure out the actual scan resolution. By maxing out the target size I think you don't realize that you are also forcing a super high scan resolution that you said earlier was unnecessary. When you set the target size to 36" high (enormous for a 35mm scan) the software is actually ALSO scaling the scan resolution in the background to create a file with that target size and resolution. If a 35mm negative is ~1" high, then the 36" high target size is 36x that. So it is actually scanning at 10,800dpi (36x300dpi) to get an output file of 36x57" at 300dpi . This is unnecessarily enormous and way beyond the actual resolution of the film grain and the scanner (which is interpolating at that point). If you set the scanner resolution to say 2400 or 3200dpi (a setting that gives you a nice large image dimension to work with) and leave the target size alone, then you can scale the resultant file for print/output however you want up to your minimum output resolution of say, 300dpi. Generally I like using 3200dpi for my scans. Then I know I can get at least a 10x enlargement of the original. A 35mm neg will print up to about 10x15" at 320dpi, or a little larger at 300dpi. Even with very fine grain film you can't go too much larger than that with 35mm or it will start to look soft or grainy in print.
2. As you said, you have to set your Target Size for every frame. This is a pain, and way slower than leaving the target size alone and resizing your file later.
I say this as a constructive criticism - I also a run a college art department media lab with this same scanner. I was happy when I came across your videos. Thanks for making these!
Great advice and great techniques, thanks for sharing. Totally agree with the gloves, I mention that when loading the scanner tray. This was a throw away film strip. And I wanted to move quickly for the video. But you’re right, I should have mentioned to wear gloves when working with the guillotine.
ive never gotten fingerprints on my scans and ive never worn gloves while handling them lmao
For any future audience, @11:37 you said that you have to change scan settings for each image individually, fortunately thats not true. You can select all or some of the images (just by shift+ click)
You can select them all, yes, but the setting will not change for all.
I can't believe the film holders you use are not glassless. I have the EPSON Perfection V600 Photo scanner and it came with glassless film holders. This eliminates the biggest source or risk of dust. Did EPSON release glassless film holders for the V850 after this video was made?
What's a decent "target size" you recommend scanning at to avoid the long wait times? Picture a situation of 12 rolls to scan and mostly all of them are recreational shots. Thanks (;
The is a very subjective question :) It really comes down to what you are planing to do with the files. Faster scans are usually smaller dimensions or lower resolution, so you’ll be sacrificing quality for speed. To get a good quality image it takes time. But if you are not looking for anything too spectacular I might go for an 8x10 range.
@@CarlosSanchezPhotography Right, testing out various options for each photo has proven to be best. I'm running into a problem when I increase the target size to the max.... After it finishes scanning, no program is able to open it to view it. I understand these individual files are as large as 2.93 GB, is my laptop just week (not considered a week laptop) and just need a desktop? Or is there a program you recommend that can handle this?
*note: I've trred windows photo viewer, bridge, lightroom, photoshop. Even the thumbnails of the files are not viewable.
Thanks for your help
@@joshualarkin3802 let’s get all the details so we can properly diagnose the issue. What are the exact settings you are choosing for “max”? And what file format are you scanning to?
@Casey Zayne Yea, have been using flixzone for months myself =)
@Casey Zayne definitely, been using flixzone for months myself :D
hello how are you, i just started using the scanner and I've encountered a problem, it was working fine when scanning picture would automatically gets separated and stuff like in 9:35 but after a few scanning it stopped dividing them and now I'm stuck with the whole scanning image and tray like in 9:21. any idea how to fix this?
At the top of the preview window, is thumbnail or normal selected?
@@CarlosSanchezPhotography ok so the version you are using is working with me, but the Epson scan 2 or smartscan software stopped functioning and is giving me the things i told u before. If u have any idea how to fix it let me know plss
Hi Carlos, the emulsion side the way you load it has the film lettering "backwards". If you see on the the holder you have ABC and CBA "mirrored". The mirrored is the wrong way according to Epson. Or am i making a huge mistake? Cheers
It might depend on the model you are using. I know the older versions were top load trays, and the 850 has bottom load trays. Traditionally though the rule of thumb was to have the emulsion face the scanner. But even if it was mirrored, it’d be an easy fix in post.
@@CarlosSanchezPhotography Thank you for the fast reply. I have the Epson V850 Pro. How bad is scanning with the emulsion on the wrong way? Does it affects quality?
@@carlosfelicio4863 in general you're missing out on a small amount of sharpness by scanning them mirrored, but most of the time that only happens if not using a tray, and it is not really noticeable. If scanning at a good resolution with a tray it should be fine either way.
@@CarlosSanchezPhotography Thank you. All the best
I loaded all my negatives with the emulsion side (dull side) facing upwards like shown in your video and after examining over 100 scans in photoshop I noticed all my scans turned out inverted. :(
Not sure what scanner you have, but a couple of things to note. The reason for mine being up is because for my model of scanner the tray gets flipped so the emulsion would then be down. On the v700 model the tray loads differently and you would load it down. The most important thing is to have the emulsion face the scanning device. Also, the importance of this is not for orientation but for the quality of the scan. Emulsion to the scanner will give you a better result. For me, if that means having to flip it in post, that's a minor thing.
You forgot to remove with your brush the dust in the air
I have the latest Epsom V850 with the software of Scan 2 and I can't find instructions on you tube on how to use the new software Can you help me. Thanks Taly
This workflow is incredibly SLOW! I have 5400 negatives to scan. With the techniques shown in this video, I'll need to work continuously until the year 2200 to finish. Not gonna happen.