a good video Todd, but this is also important as 'general maintenance' as sometimes the lenses loosen from the board, like if you remove a tight filter, and turn the lens on the board, or using a different camera body, where you need to turn the lens, to get the release socket in the right orientation.
Great video, thanks for making it. Didn't even know the Rodenstock lens wrench existed - another thanks for that tip. Another key tip was to be sure a retaining ring is included with any used lens/shutter assembly you purchase, and preferably attached to a mounting board. You may not be able to use the board on your equipment, but you would know that it came with all the parts necessary to mount it on the correct board. I'm not sure that you mentioned that the purpose of the lip on the retaining ring was to help center the lens/shutter assembly within the hole in the lens/shutter mounting board. If one just holds the front element of the lens while tightening the rear element, while the lens board drops down between them, i.e. without regard to the positioning of the lens/shutter assembly within the mounting board, the lip of the retaining ring may be riding up on the edge of the hole on one side and down in the hole on the other side. If this occurs, the lens/shutter assembly may not be centered correctly, which could cause the lens/shutter assembly to be slightly cocked in the mount and put undue pressure on the aperture mechanism and other internal mechanical parts of the shutter, when the retaining ring is tightened. A cocked lens/shutter assembly could tend to be loose in the mount, leading to the overtightening of the retaining ring you mentioned. In addition to binding the aperture mechanism, it could also affect the evenness of the plane of focus if not recognized and corrected. My comment is based on my own experience in learning things the hard way.
Hey Todd - thanks for creating this video. I just purchased a Schneider Xenotar 135mm F3.5, which I need to attach to a lens board. Also, thanks for mentioning about the retaining ring!
I have a 90mm Rodenstock Objektive Large Format lens I purchased used. Operationally it appears to work fine. Below the front element it is clearly written "Copal 1". I purchased a Copal 1 lens board. However, I cannot find a way to unmount the rear element from the front element. Both elements appear to be part of one piece. Any thoughts on that?
Hi Todd, thanks so much for the video. I just got a Rodenstock Sironar-N 300mm f/5.6 MC and want to attach it to my Toyo 8x10 GII, but I think I may need a different retaining ring it seems from what I am observing from your video. Can anyone here give be some insight as to how I can make my Toyo lens board and Rodenstock compatible to mount? Very green at the large format process, thanks in advance to anyone who may know!
I am making a fixed fl camera and need a wrench for my lens. I also need a way to hold the lense board against the front of the camera I am a nooby newbie and need toknow the place to get this stuff. The lens came from KEH
I’m new in the large format. I recently bought a Toyo 4x5 rail camera. I would like to know what is the difference between a recessed lens board from a flat board. Thank you in advance.
Just a question : this tool work fine with a flat lensboard. How to do with a wide angle lensboard, like Linhof lensboard for 90mm Schneider Lens, where front and back sides can’t be accessible by this tool ?(sorry for my bad english…)
@@toddkorolphoto I surely got a special lensboard because the rear is recessed inside too. I can’t access by front or rear. It’s a Linhof lensboard made for and old Schneider 90/5.6. So…. Thank for the answer.
Those threads are quite large and very fine pitch, so if you're not careful it would be very easy to cross-thread them. So be gentle. Also, if you have an older lens, it might be tightned and seized to where it is very difficult to remove, or the threads chatter and scrape when you loosen them. Just a tiny dab of vaseline (NOT WD-40) will keep your lens element threads turning freely for when you want to remove them. If you have one you really cannot remove, do not be tempted to go for the vise-grips. Take it to a professional instead. When you have either the front or rear group removed, the very delicate shutter or aperture blades are exposed, so be careful not to touch them. A little air from a squeeze-bulb to blow away any dust will not hurt before reassembly, but a blast from a compressed air can is enough to damage them.
a good video Todd, but this is also important as 'general maintenance' as sometimes the lenses loosen from the board, like if you remove a tight filter, and turn the lens on the board, or using a different camera body, where you need to turn the lens, to get the release socket in the right orientation.
you are on a noble quest, sir
Found it! Thank you Todd. Great tips and now I know I need a spanner wrench.
Perfect, glad it worked out.
Nice. Would love to get into large format some day.
Great video, thanks for making it. Didn't even know the Rodenstock lens wrench existed - another thanks for that tip. Another key tip was to be sure a retaining ring is included with any used lens/shutter assembly you purchase, and preferably attached to a mounting board. You may not be able to use the board on your equipment, but you would know that it came with all the parts necessary to mount it on the correct board.
I'm not sure that you mentioned that the purpose of the lip on the retaining ring was to help center the lens/shutter assembly within the hole in the lens/shutter mounting board. If one just holds the front element of the lens while tightening the rear element, while the lens board drops down between them, i.e. without regard to the positioning of the lens/shutter assembly within the mounting board, the lip of the retaining ring may be riding up on the edge of the hole on one side and down in the hole on the other side. If this occurs, the lens/shutter assembly may not be centered correctly, which could cause the lens/shutter assembly to be slightly cocked in the mount and put undue pressure on the aperture mechanism and other internal mechanical parts of the shutter, when the retaining ring is tightened. A cocked lens/shutter assembly could tend to be loose in the mount, leading to the overtightening of the retaining ring you mentioned. In addition to binding the aperture mechanism, it could also affect the evenness of the plane of focus if not recognized and corrected. My comment is based on my own experience in learning things the hard way.
Thank you, that as great. Reminded me of what to do after 20 odd years!
Hey Todd - thanks for creating this video. I just purchased a Schneider Xenotar 135mm F3.5, which I need to attach to a lens board. Also, thanks for mentioning about the retaining ring!
Perfect. Those are nice lenses!
Gr8 vdo. Can I mount a mamiya lens onto a lens board? If so, do I need an adapter for the lens board?
Very interesting and useful. Thanks a lot !
I didn't realize that if you over tighten the lens it could impact the aperture ring. Good to know.
Thank you! I’m gonna mount another lens on my crown graphic this week!
morethanyoucaretosee 👍👍
Hi everyone. I have a question about what a new experience I can get when attach large format lenses on full frame camera? I just have a ff camera…thx
I have a 90mm Rodenstock Objektive Large Format lens I purchased used. Operationally it appears to work fine. Below the front element it is clearly written "Copal 1". I purchased a Copal 1 lens board. However, I cannot find a way to unmount the rear element from the front element. Both elements appear to be part of one piece. Any thoughts on that?
Hi Todd, thanks so much for the video. I just got a Rodenstock Sironar-N 300mm f/5.6 MC and want to attach it to my Toyo 8x10 GII, but I think I may need a different retaining ring it seems from what I am observing from your video. Can anyone here give be some insight as to how I can make my Toyo lens board and Rodenstock compatible to mount? Very green at the large format process, thanks in advance to anyone who may know!
Your best bet is to find someone that can help you out where you live. A good camera store can help. SKGrimes can also do it. skgrimes.com
I am making a fixed fl camera and need a wrench for my lens. I also need a way to hold the lense board against the front of the camera I am a nooby newbie and need toknow the place to get this stuff. The lens came from KEH
skgrimes.com
I’m new in the large format. I recently bought a Toyo 4x5 rail camera. I would like to know what is the difference between a recessed lens board from a flat board. Thank you in advance.
A recessed board is for wide angle lenses. It gets the lens closer to the film plane. Often used because the bellows won’t compress enough.
Just a question : this tool work fine with a flat lensboard. How to do with a wide angle lensboard, like Linhof lensboard for 90mm Schneider Lens, where front and back sides can’t be accessible by this tool ?(sorry for my bad english…)
It’s just the front that is not accessible, the back is the same where you can get at it. I use this with a recessed lens board.
@@toddkorolphoto I surely got a special lensboard because the rear is recessed inside too. I can’t access by front or rear. It’s a Linhof lensboard made for and old Schneider 90/5.6. So….
Thank for the answer.
You had another wrench there on the table. Will one like this work, too? Or is it possible to over-tighten the retaining ring with those too easily?
Waiting for the answer !
Those threads are quite large and very fine pitch, so if you're not careful it would be very easy to cross-thread them. So be gentle.
Also, if you have an older lens, it might be tightned and seized to where it is very difficult to remove, or the threads chatter and scrape when you loosen them. Just a tiny dab of vaseline (NOT WD-40) will keep your lens element threads turning freely for when you want to remove them. If you have one you really cannot remove, do not be tempted to go for the vise-grips. Take it to a professional instead.
When you have either the front or rear group removed, the very delicate shutter or aperture blades are exposed, so be careful not to touch them.
A little air from a squeeze-bulb to blow away any dust will not hurt before reassembly, but a blast from a compressed air can is enough to damage them.
Hey here, I have exactly this problem. It would be nice to have some help
For wide angle lenses, one will most likely need a recessed lens board.
Terry Thomas...
the photographer
Atlanta, Georgia USA