We acquired an 03' Expedition earlier this year. We'd already been thru an intake manifold replacement to fix a coolant leak. Fortunately got the plugs replaced too without breaking the old ones! But it had lukewarm heat at best, then gradually went to no heat at all. I just did this trick today, doing the inlet and outlet flush; we watched the crap flow into the bucket. Put it back together and took it for a drive. Its early summer in June but by golly, this baby has heat! Alot of it! An easy and cheap fix! Thanks Natan!
I just cut the hoses and clamped a 5/8 heater hose connector in both. Not only was it easier and saved time than struggling with those annoying quick connects, but when I work on my 5.4 tritón it's so much easier to work on the spark plugs in the rear cos I can just remove that connector and give me a hell of a lot more room
I believe my 2002 ford f150 has the same problem.I am in the process of of treating the core with CLR. I was able to rig one of those cheap Harbor Freight pumps to the hose ends to agitate the CLR back and forth thru the core to hopefully open them up.I am able to switch the ports on the pump to force the chemical thru both directions. I noticed the inlet hose was much more hot than the exit.The heat seemed to build with the blower motor off and quickly discipate when turned on.Thanks for your video !
I found that if you can connect to the hose so it doesn't leak, then turn the water on and kink the hose, then let the water surge through the heater core. You will break much more of the crap loose. I had a water pump with no fins left. Those pieces of fins went somewhere!
The problem is that you can really directly push 100% water though the heater core (on this expedition, etc)...to do a good flush because of the rear core. The hoses are designed to split the flow to the rear also. I found out the hard way ~_~
My father used a bottle of clr with water, drove it a few days, of course warmer weather and he said his heater started working better. He told me a bunch of crud came out when he drained it. Then flushed with water and refilled the system with coolant and he said the difference was night and day.
Good idea on the hoses. Was thinking about doin the hose thing today. It sounded funyy to me but I just looked up heater core cleaning, and your vid popped up. And you posted it Pretty cool . I'm going to do this idea it will keep engine dry and save any electrical. Thanks Nathan good vid
nathan rohrbough my was so bad i got the back to work real well but the front is ok but i think the core is bad we will see and someone told me at a shop it would be 712.00 for the whole thing I look on line it say only between 79 to 90 for a flush but it's going for now it was so rusty I did the whole system
I have the same vehicle with the Aux climate control and the heater (front and rear) blew only cold air. I decided to flush the cores so I disconnected the core inlet hose at the front top of the engine and the engine return hose at the metal tube at the Rh side of the Engine bay. I reverse flushed the core system and discovered that there was a restrictor (from the factory) in the core inlet hose. The hole in the restrictor was about the size of a pencil. It now appears that the restrictor was "restricted" and when I hooked everything back together the heaters worked fine. I looks like I could have disconnected the core inlet hose at the engine and simply used a small pipe brush to clean the hose restrictor. Could have saved a lot of time and effort.
i have the same issue on my f150. inlet hose was super hot and outlet hose was warm. has only warm air when set to full heat. might be good practice to do a full coolant flush
On a lot of these Expeditions and F-150's (Mine's a '98) The heater core is way up higher than the engine and gets air trapped in it . You can flush it all you want and get some heat for a while but it always goes away again , You have to burp the system , there are many good videos on youtube that shoe haw to do this .
Well 2002 F150 low heat so seen your post. So with truck running one hose the one going to the front burning hot the other hose going god knows where down the back warm. So seems reasonable to assume the heater core is clogged and the very easy to remove hose right up front is the feed. So I am sometimes lazy and that leads to invention so I decide I am going to just take off the front heater hose open the fill cap and connect my shop vac to the hose (reverse flow suction coolant is the flush not water). Yup I do it fluid starts coming out I watch the reservoir until it is almost down to the bottom and I stop. I then put the hose on pop on the clamp and top off with fresh coolant. Start the truck up and whoha both hoses too hot to hold and burning hot heat in the cab. Total job time oh 5 min 10 if you include the top off and closing the hood and stuff.
I had to do the same thing on my f150. I stuck pvc in them and connected an old water hose and flushed it both ways. One way looked clean and the other side shot out all kinds of junk
..yep . We are definitely going to need the heaters this year. Yesterday it was 78 degrees with a slight breeze now and then. today 53 with steady 10 mph wind gusting 15-20 mph. yep, winter is coming and she may be mad...
I flushed mine yesterday. I think I might have gotten water in the injectors because my truck Is shaking now. Any ideas on what I need to do to fix that? Thanks man.
Just replaced my radiator in my 1999 Ford expedition...225k Miles.. I have to do this and replace my blender motor/ actuator. I've been told that I have to pull the dash. I'm an old electronic tech but I don't like playing with the dash and instrumental parts.
Hi so I have the same problem and I have the same car ford expedition 2000 5.4 and I fix the thermostat but it doesn't work so. So what u did is that will help and make the hat work better so can u tell me back
I run across this problem many times. Want to do it right? Flush the coolant system and replace the heater core. Also get new O-rings don't reuse the old ones you're setting yourself up for a leak. But if you can get heat working perfectly with a flush more power to you.
I have a similar problem in my 2000 F-150 (5.4L Triton V8), although, the issue with mine is a small leak in the head gasket that is forcing gas fumes into the coolant system. I had a flush Spring of last year and it’s worked well until recently. I don’t have the money to replace the head gaskets at this time, so I’m going to attempt to flush the core myself and install a purging valve on the core supply line. Just FYI I would apply silicone grease to those O rings before reinstalling them. It will ensure a proper seal when re-seating the connectors. Does anyone know what size these circ lines are? They look like 3/4” id. I’m hoping it will seat nicely over a 3/4” od copper pipe or perhaps pex for the purge assembly. Just FYI if you do decide to install a purge system, make sure it is not placed directly over the coils. You will end up with misfires if any liquid lands on top of those things. It inevitably will find its way between the coil and plug, causing a short in the ignition.
I used that seal all in the oil. It's like $6 for last option. It actually worked and it's been good until recently. Did it again and it worked again. Just a thought. Mine was going to the junk yard next with to many other problems. So last ditch effort. Check out my channels for some videos
Nathan Rohrbough a little is no problem. I just wondered if I didn’t drain the coolant or pinched the hoses. If the coolant would drain out everywhere. Thank you.
i have 04 navigator and the heater throws cold air only. it started with the heater hose coming out of the manifold blowing out. you think i can do this?
the next time you flush your heater core use CLR in it.let the CLR soak in the heater core for a hour or so..So far I have done 3 heater core this winter and the CLR does the job.
TVWXMAN32,I got my mechanic using CLR and it really does the job on heater cores...My daughters heater core was plugged up and she wasn't getting any heat at all.we soaked it in CLR for 30 minutes and flushed it out.then filled it back up with CLR and let it soak over night.it was so nasty that the CLR came out looking like coffee and tons of chunks came out with it...look on UA-cam for a video by Eric the car guy..type in CLR to flush a heater core.my 1999 ford expedition is next to have the core flushed.
That's something I need to try cuz just running cold water through it really doesn't work in most cases. And it is a lot of labor but replacing the heater core is not brain surgery. Plenty of good UA-cam video showing you were all the Bolts are for removing the dashboard.
I broke one of the QD when taking the hose off the heater core. I bought the recommended replacement QD do I need to put the O rings on the new QD because I cant get it to click or stay on with the o rings on. I appreciate your help
Well if the quick connect clips are on and the seals are on...it might take several tries to get those hoses to click. It took me several tries on one of my hoses before it actually connect..spray some oil on the inside of those hoses, it might make them slide on easier also. That's what I did.
Thank you very much sir you sure have one amazing truck. Mine is that dark green eddiebaur 1997 and I have the same color 1994 Ford Explorer XLT love them both.
i*m gonna have to do this but i will have to use a very strong degreaser , had an issue with the motor and it mixed wather with oil and its a still to much messy
That answered my question. My heater gets luke warm as well. It only gets hot when I drive it on the highway it seems like. But when I first start the truck in the morning to let warm up there's just cold air. It can be running for 30 minutes and barely anything till I drive around.
That is not enough dirt to clog a heater core. I would check the door behind your radio in the dash. A gear driven electric motor opens and closes a door to alternate between A/C air and heater air. the gear strips and you get stuck with either cold air of hot air.
Do not run your car,that would be not to smart your hose's is going to be unhooked,you will run all the antifreeze out of motor and mayget burnt bad make sure your motor is cool b4 doing this if you don't know how to do don't attempt please get a mechanic!!!
so my heat actually just started to get luk warm it used to be really hot yesterday but when I was driving it wasn't . so would u assume it's clogged right cause there's no leaks anywhere and it's kinda warm . and would it hurt if I used a power washer ?
Funny thing is i'm going to do a heater core flush tomorrow for a second time on this expadition ! It got luk warm over time. I will do a 2nd video again. I would not use a power washer just to much pressure for a heater core. I would just flush it out with water hoes etc. Besides you can catch the water in a bucket and see what comes out.
I thought I had a video on that....but I'm getting lost in my own videos.....But I can tell you....you have to stick your hands up under there and release those clips and pull off the hoses. It can be done. Just don't drop those little seals. If I find that video I'll post it.
TVWXMAN32 I'm trying to figure out how you got the pieces of hose to fit on the firewall mine would not stay in or clamped so I just put a running hose right to it and it was a weak flush can you help me with a good clip recommendation or something
@@FixingWithPassion Maybe Comet might do since it's not too grainy. It DOES clean drain pipes on bathroom sinks. Maybe pour some in the radiator and run it with the heater on. Let it sit and the bubbles pop and loosen dirt. It cleaned my bathroom sink pipe! It can mix with antifreeze I guess.
Put CLR in the heater cores and leave it I there for an hour,then with the water hose put it in the top heater hose a flush it out.Use a air compressor if the water can't un clog it.
@@frankmata1812 A compressor might pop the tubing. It's too much pressure. Comet or Ajax and normal water pressure would be better. Let the Ajax or Comet popping bubbles will loosen dirt. The water flowing with the abrasive Comet or Ajax will loosen the dirt. Or a gallon of WD-40 might do.
I quart mixed antifreeze with 50 gallons of fresh water......no harm done. Your car probably does more harm by leaking some oil and transmission over time into the ground and going into the water supply.
Heater cores quit working for a bunch of reasons and rarely because clogged. DIYs on here with a dysfunctional core who wish to save money by fixing the problem themselves are best to take the vehicle to a good shop and have a real mechanic diagnose the core and coolant system. Pay the $100 labour or whatever for the estimate and get a detailed rundown of what the real causes are, instead of wasting money and time chasing up the wrong tree. Throw them the $100 and drive the car off with the to-do list. If a heater core becomes clogged with rusty goop, the whole coolant system will be in the same state. Just unclogging the core, without flushing and replacing the entire system, is a waste of time. The causes are usually more complex and expensive due to failure to regularly replace the coolant. Dirty coolant will destroy the water pump and all hoses, resulting in cold air because the coolant drained out of the pump. The problem could be a broken actuator in the core. The whole system is fine except that the deflector door is unable to move to channel hot air into the cab. Or a cable snapped or broke off its mount. For about $100, a good honest mechanic will provide an accurate explanation of why the heat isn't working. From there, the DIY can take a shot at it or pay a pro.
I agree. Sometimes there just to involved for the average person to fix it them selves. So many different heating and cooling systems now days operate with different means. Computers, wires, vacuum lines...So complex.
You have a point , I flushed my heater core out several times and it didn't fix the problem . The problem ended up being that I had air in the system . The heater core is the highest part of the cooling system so any air is going to collect there .
We acquired an 03' Expedition earlier this year. We'd already been thru an intake manifold replacement to fix a coolant leak. Fortunately got the plugs replaced too without breaking the old ones! But it had lukewarm heat at best, then gradually went to no heat at all. I just did this trick today, doing the inlet and outlet flush; we watched the crap flow into the bucket. Put it back together and took it for a drive. Its early summer in June but by golly, this baby has heat! Alot of it! An easy and cheap fix! Thanks Natan!
Great!~~~~~~
I just cut the hoses and clamped a 5/8 heater hose connector in both. Not only was it easier and saved time than struggling with those annoying quick connects, but when I work on my 5.4 tritón it's so much easier to work on the spark plugs in the rear cos I can just remove that connector and give me a hell of a lot more room
Good tips!!!
I may do that depending if I can't get that quick connect off
Thank you for your advise for a person with no means of paying a high price of fixing my car you were a big help again thank you God bless you
I believe my 2002 ford f150 has the same problem.I am in the process of of treating the core with CLR. I was able to rig one of those cheap Harbor Freight pumps to the hose ends to agitate the CLR back and forth thru the core to hopefully open them up.I am able to switch the ports on the pump to force the chemical thru both directions. I noticed the inlet hose was much more hot than the exit.The heat seemed to build with the blower motor off and quickly discipate when turned on.Thanks for your video !
I found that if you can connect to the hose so it doesn't leak, then turn the water on and kink the hose, then let the water surge through the heater core. You will break much more of the crap loose. I had a water pump with no fins left. Those pieces of fins went somewhere!
I’ve always left the hoses connected at the heater core and disconnect them elsewhere and flush them through the hoses themselves. A lot easier
The problem is that you can really directly push 100% water though the heater core (on this expedition, etc)...to do a good flush because of the rear core. The hoses are designed to split the flow to the rear also. I found out the hard way ~_~
My father used a bottle of clr with water, drove it a few days, of course warmer weather and he said his heater started working better. He told me a bunch of crud came out when he drained it. Then flushed with water and refilled the system with coolant and he said the difference was night and day.
Yea that would do it. I have to either replace my core or give it one more flush....it getting not very warm again....Video soon.
Good idea on the hoses. Was thinking about doin the hose thing today. It sounded funyy to me but I just looked up heater core cleaning, and your vid popped up. And you posted it Pretty cool . I'm going to do this idea it will keep engine dry and save any electrical. Thanks Nathan good vid
nathan rohrbough my was so bad i got the back to work real well but the front is ok but i think the core is bad we will see and someone told me at a shop it would be 712.00 for the whole thing I look on line it say only between 79 to 90 for a flush but it's going for now it was so rusty I did the whole system
I have the same vehicle with the Aux climate control and the heater (front and rear) blew only cold air. I decided to flush the cores so I disconnected the core inlet hose at the front top of the engine and the engine return hose at the metal tube at the Rh side of the Engine bay. I reverse flushed the core system and discovered that there was a restrictor (from the factory) in the core inlet hose. The hole in the restrictor was about the size of a pencil. It now appears that the restrictor was "restricted" and when I hooked everything back together the heaters worked fine. I looks like I could have disconnected the core inlet hose at the engine and simply used a small pipe brush to clean the hose restrictor. Could have saved a lot of time and effort.
Good job! Enjoy the new heat.
i have the same issue on my f150. inlet hose was super hot and outlet hose was warm. has only warm air when set to full heat. might be good practice to do a full coolant flush
Yes!
I'm having the same problem with my 2003 tundra I will definitely try that thanks
On a lot of these Expeditions and F-150's (Mine's a '98) The heater core is way up higher than the engine and gets air trapped in it . You can flush it all you want and get some heat for a while but it always goes away again , You have to burp the system , there are many good videos on youtube that shoe haw to do this .
Right...even the reservoir has to to up pretty high. So far heat is like a boss! Good thing....tomorrow night 13 degrees ;( ugh
I have the same model. and I have 186,560. so it needs to be cleaned. I'm having trouble with no heat your video helped. it's just too cold right now.
Got ya. Yea heater core probably needs flushed;)
Well 2002 F150 low heat so seen your post. So with truck running one hose the one going to the front burning hot the other hose going god knows where down the back warm. So seems reasonable to assume the heater core is clogged and the very easy to remove hose right up front is the feed. So I am sometimes lazy and that leads to invention so I decide I am going to just take off the front heater hose open the fill cap and connect my shop vac to the hose (reverse flow suction coolant is the flush not water). Yup I do it fluid starts coming out I watch the reservoir until it is almost down to the bottom and I stop. I then put the hose on pop on the clamp and top off with fresh coolant. Start the truck up and whoha both hoses too hot to hold and burning hot heat in the cab. Total job time oh 5 min 10 if you include the top off and closing the hood and stuff.
This reads like something Donald would write. I may give this a shot
I had to do the same thing on my f150. I stuck pvc in them and connected an old water hose and flushed it both ways. One way looked clean and the other side shot out all kinds of junk
Glad you fixed it!
Wooheee. Hell ya brother. Saved about 12 hours of labor.
I have the same problem ,i bled the air from system and the heater core started making weird noises ,but i got my heat back
..yep . We are definitely going to need the heaters this year. Yesterday it was 78 degrees with a slight breeze now and then. today 53 with steady 10 mph wind gusting 15-20 mph. yep, winter is coming and she may be mad...
Did this fix your issue or did it cause your heater core to start Leaking in the future?
Bone dry still!
Was your vehicle overheating or not reaching optimum performance temperature
Not getting warm enough
I flushed mine yesterday. I think I might have gotten water in the injectors because my truck Is shaking now. Any ideas on what I need to do to fix that? Thanks man.
Dry them.
Sounds like you got water between coil pack and spark plugs. Take coil packs off and blow air inside the hole. Do NOT take out spark plugs.
Theres stuff in the heater core. Thats good. Lmfao thats great
Just replaced my radiator in my 1999 Ford expedition...225k Miles.. I have to do this and replace my blender motor/ actuator.
I've been told that I have to pull the dash. I'm an old electronic tech but I don't like playing with the dash and instrumental parts.
Yea the dash has to be removed...I've seen guys cut and hack through the glove box...but that's not good.
Hi so I have the same problem and I have the same car ford expedition 2000 5.4 and I fix the thermostat but it doesn't work so. So what u did is that will help and make the hat work better so can u tell me back
ok
@@FixingWithPassion so it's just clean it with the water right
@@mohamedabdulrahman8153 Yep...check for leaks
I run across this problem many times. Want to do it right? Flush the coolant system and replace the heater core. Also get new O-rings don't reuse the old ones you're setting yourself up for a leak. But if you can get heat working perfectly with a flush more power to you.
Yes! True. = HOT HEAT!~~
I have a similar problem in my 2000 F-150 (5.4L Triton V8), although, the issue with mine is a small leak in the head gasket that is forcing gas fumes into the coolant system. I had a flush Spring of last year and it’s worked well until recently. I don’t have the money to replace the head gaskets at this time, so I’m going to attempt to flush the core myself and install a purging valve on the core supply line. Just FYI I would apply silicone grease to those O rings before reinstalling them. It will ensure a proper seal when re-seating the connectors. Does anyone know what size these circ lines are? They look like 3/4” id. I’m hoping it will seat nicely over a 3/4” od copper pipe or perhaps pex for the purge assembly. Just FYI if you do decide to install a purge system, make sure it is not placed directly over the coils. You will end up with misfires if any liquid lands on top of those things. It inevitably will find its way between the coil and plug, causing a short in the ignition.
I used that seal all in the oil. It's like $6 for last option. It actually worked and it's been good until recently. Did it again and it worked again. Just a thought. Mine was going to the junk yard next with to many other problems. So last ditch effort. Check out my channels for some videos
Do you need to drain out the coolant before removing the heater core hoses?
I did not...but you may lose some coolant but no biggie. Just re fill after the job is done! ;D
Nathan Rohrbough a little is no problem. I just wondered if I didn’t drain the coolant or pinched the hoses. If the coolant would drain out everywhere. Thank you.
I have the same problem but on my 2006 F150. Will this flush work the same on it??
it should
My experience with a heater that only puts out luke warm air is that the thermostat is weak or stuck open.
Great job!
Word!
Way to go showing how those rubber washers go back in
PITA!! lol
i have 04 navigator and the heater throws cold air only. it started with the heater hose coming out of the manifold blowing out. you think i can do this?
Boy your engine is clean.
only 135,000 miles...
TVWXMAN32 I wish u was in hammond,la to help me with mine lol
the next time you flush your heater core use CLR in it.let the CLR soak in the heater core for a hour or so..So far I have done 3 heater core this winter and the CLR does the job.
Good advice!
TVWXMAN32,I got my mechanic using CLR and it really does the job on heater cores...My daughters heater core was plugged up and she wasn't getting any heat at all.we soaked it in CLR for 30 minutes and flushed it out.then filled it back up with CLR and let it soak over night.it was so nasty that the CLR came out looking like coffee and tons of chunks came out with it...look on UA-cam for a video by Eric the car guy..type in CLR to flush a heater core.my 1999 ford expedition is next to have the core flushed.
That's something I need to try cuz just running cold water through it really doesn't work in most cases. And it is a lot of labor but replacing the heater core is not brain surgery. Plenty of good UA-cam video showing you were all the Bolts are for removing the dashboard.
thanks for the how to, hope this works the same on my 03
I hear ya...The coldest part of winter is coming! I flushed my heater
core 3 times! But the first time, it made a big difference!
Hey Nathan, did you get an antifreeze smell when you had this issue? Maybe I have a seal leaking a bit due to it being plugged... Any thoughts?
Im having the same problem did you find out what was needed to be done?
@@bodaddydaboss9029 after flushing the system, the smell went away in a short amount of time.
Thanks im gunna do the same thing
I broke one of the QD when taking the hose off the heater core. I bought the recommended replacement QD do I need to put the O rings on the new QD because I cant get it to click or stay on with the o rings on. I appreciate your help
Well if the quick connect clips are on and the seals are on...it might take several tries to get those hoses to click. It took me several tries on one of my hoses before it actually connect..spray some oil on the inside of those hoses, it might make them slide on easier also. That's what I did.
got cha.thanks
Great video solved my problem. Thanks
Thank you very much sir you sure have one amazing truck. Mine is that dark green eddiebaur 1997 and I have the same color 1994 Ford Explorer XLT love them both.
Heater cores can be a problem
Replaced my heater core and blend door on my f150 and only have heat now under acceleration. ????
i*m gonna have to do this but i will have to use a very strong degreaser , had an issue with the motor and it mixed wather with oil and its a still to much messy
so did you slid those o rings in the dis connected hose or on the heat core hose end ?
Yea, they go on the heater core tube ends. There is nothing on the hose part.
That answered my question. My heater gets luke warm as well. It only gets hot when I drive it on the highway it seems like. But when I first start the truck in the morning to let warm up there's just cold air. It can be running for 30 minutes and barely anything till I drive around.
Tim Osness did you try this? Did it work?
That is not enough dirt to clog a heater core. I would check the door behind your radio in the dash. A gear driven electric motor opens and closes a door to alternate between A/C air and heater air. the gear strips and you get stuck with either cold air of hot air.
Okay my 2002 Lincoln navigator l by last year have a good cold AC but no hit l change tarmostat but still no work no hit
thanks for the video, do you have any idea whats the inner diameter of the heater hoses?
not sure of inner/outer but its 3/4" hose on the sends and 5/8" hose on the returns.
Are all Saturn sl1blower motor core the same
what size of garden hose (diameter) did you use?
5/8" But check you to make sure ;)
crye redd v
When you flush out the heater core does the car need to be running while flushing it out?
You can run or let it idle while flushing. Its really up to you.
Do not run your car,that would be not to smart your hose's is going to be unhooked,you will run all the antifreeze out of motor and mayget burnt bad make sure your motor is cool b4 doing this if you don't know how to do don't attempt please get a mechanic!!!
so my heat actually just started to get luk warm it used to be really hot yesterday but when I was driving it wasn't . so would u assume it's clogged right cause there's no leaks anywhere and it's kinda warm . and would it hurt if I used a power washer ?
Funny thing is i'm going to do a heater core flush tomorrow for a second time on this expadition ! It got luk warm over time. I will do a 2nd video again. I would not use a power washer just to much pressure for a heater core. I would just flush it out with water hoes etc. Besides you can catch the water in a bucket and see what comes out.
Ok thanks
TVWXMAN32 is this new video posted? mine was warm/hot for about 20 minutes after flush then it got cold again
Why not disconnect the heater hoses at the other end?? Much easier..
No Antifreeze?
I''ll check
Did you get all the air out of system. So you don't get that gurgle sound ?
Yep all good.
Going to try this. My air is blowing ice cold.
How did you get to the hoses in the firewall?
ulrek54321 I will post a link how I took the hoses off in a bit.
Thanks!
I thought I had a video on that....but I'm getting lost in my own videos.....But I can tell you....you have to stick your hands up under there and release those clips and pull off the hoses. It can be done. Just don't drop those little seals. If I find that video I'll post it.
TVWXMAN32 I'm trying to figure out how you got the pieces of hose to fit on the firewall mine would not stay in or clamped so I just put a running hose right to it and it was a weak flush can you help me with a good clip recommendation or something
This Jimmy smith
Very good job 👏 extremely good
Now I'm going to drop in a new heater core next week....Video soon ;)
Couldn't some company come up with a radiator chemical to flush out the core?
Some do, but its not to effective.
@@FixingWithPassion Maybe Comet might do since it's not too grainy. It DOES clean drain pipes on bathroom sinks. Maybe pour some in the radiator and run it with the heater on. Let it sit and the bubbles pop and loosen dirt. It cleaned my bathroom sink pipe! It can mix with antifreeze I guess.
Put CLR in the heater cores and leave it I there for an hour,then with the water hose put it in the top heater hose a flush it out.Use a air compressor if the water can't un clog it.
@@frankmata1812 A compressor might pop the tubing. It's too much pressure. Comet or Ajax and normal water pressure would be better. Let the Ajax or Comet popping bubbles will loosen dirt. The water flowing with the abrasive Comet or Ajax will loosen the dirt. Or a gallon of WD-40 might do.
Hank Bridges I've done it by reducing the air on the air compressor,cause one time a cars heater was to darn plugged.
Any Brady give me any information how to make work my hit 2002 Lincoln navigator
Half of that may of came off the motor when all that water was dripping
It's P1074 you're welcome
Thanks A bunch
Word!
Try c.l.r. cleaner thatll so the trick
Yes sir!~
Take of the invirmement
Little trick. Flush with lime away.......
Yes!!
They wanted 712.00 for that
Just love the sound of your own voice, and clips on those hoses mean nothing as the hoses are reinforced so those clasps did nothing lmao
But they do enough ;)
Antifreeze lecks inside how can i fix that
Replace the heater core.
OTC has tools to reach back there.
I ask about a 2008 kia reo and i get this
lol
you poured the water from your heat core out ob the ground that does contain antifreeze ya know!
I quart mixed antifreeze with 50 gallons of fresh water......no harm done. Your car probably does more harm by leaking some oil and transmission over time into the ground and going into the water supply.
TVWXMAN32 would you drink it? 😐😕
Tree hugger stop bitching
yeah you can call me a tree hugger, animal caretaker, or whatever you want, have you ever seen a dog die from antifreeze??
yes SO COOL
Wasn't dirty
ok
Heater cores quit working for a bunch of reasons and rarely because clogged. DIYs on here with a dysfunctional core who wish to save money by fixing the problem themselves are best to take the vehicle to a good shop and have a real mechanic diagnose the core and coolant system. Pay the $100 labour or whatever for the estimate and get a detailed rundown of what the real causes are, instead of wasting money and time chasing up the wrong tree. Throw them the $100 and drive the car off with the to-do list.
If a heater core becomes clogged with rusty goop, the whole coolant system will be in the same state. Just unclogging the core, without flushing and replacing the entire system, is a waste of time.
The causes are usually more complex and expensive due to failure to regularly replace the coolant. Dirty coolant will destroy the water pump and all hoses, resulting in cold air because the coolant drained out of the pump. The problem could be a broken actuator in the core. The whole system is fine except that the deflector door is unable to move to channel hot air into the cab. Or a cable snapped or broke off its mount.
For about $100, a good honest mechanic will provide an accurate explanation of why the heat isn't working. From there, the DIY can take a shot at it or pay a pro.
I agree. Sometimes there just to involved for the average person to fix it them selves. So many different heating and cooling systems now days operate with different means. Computers, wires, vacuum lines...So complex.
$100. bucks for a 5-6 hour job?? lolol
You have a point , I flushed my heater core out several times and it didn't fix the problem . The problem ended up being that I had air in the system . The heater core is the highest part of the cooling system so any air is going to collect there .
Elaine Hamarsheh $100 to diagnose. If it takes 5-6 hours for diagnosis then that seems a bit extensive don’t you think?
JD G it cost me 800. 50 for the heat core the rest went to labor I didnt need a diagnoses it was obvious my window was fogging up with a greasy film.
😂
Are all Saturn sl1blower motor core the same