Professional carpenter here (30yrs), good to see young guys doing excellent work and admitting still learning. Building and remodeling is always the same yet different and we should never stop learning and improving our skills.
I agree with you it's good seeing young people in the carpentry business I've been doing it for 32 years and I absolutely love it I wouldn't have it any other way
I agree with you it's good seeing young people in the carpentry business I've been doing it for 32 years and I absolutely love it I wouldn't have it any other way
We do our stairs exactly the same in MN except we glue between the top riser and joist, and the one on the floor. Keeps it from squeaking later on, etc... Sometimes builder's want us to notch out the bottom and run treated lumber on the slab, too. Nice job! 🇺🇸👍😊 It's nice seeing the younger generation stepping up. 🇺🇸
Keep it up man. It’s hard to find younger people joining the trade nowadays. Nobody wants to get their hands dirty. It’s good to see a younger crew out there.
I use the same framing square and buttons exactly haha. I also like to build my stairs as a unit and set it instead of each stringer individually if i can. All stairs come down to is math, layout, and cutting with a saw! Each veteran carpenter I worked with and was taught by all build stairs differently. Nice video man.
That’s sick man you’re very good. The way I learned was using treated 2x4 and fastening to the concrete and notching the risers to sit on it. Very cool to see a different and experienced way of doing this
They look nice but you can't use plywood or osb to hang the stairs off the landing. You need to either use hangers or post them up from the concrete floor. Also, you need some hangers for your landing floor joists and you cant just nail the joist to the studs at the exterior wall. You could post under each joist at that wall but you make drywalling it a nightmare as you will need to cover any and all wall penetrations for fire. You will also need to add a vaper barrier under any untreated wood to concrete. You almost got it though. Keep up the hard work.
The joists are posted, Hangered, and the house is well past inspection and getting flooring done by now. Had zero issues with any of this section! Never added posts under the stairs. The plywood was sufficient
Cool video. This guy is right, Simpson stringer straps are code. Plywood isn’t appropriate to hold stairs securely for years. The other comments on securing stairs to where they land is also best practice. Stairs ain’t nothing to mess with. In the trades we always wanna keep improving. Forever. Thanks.
Always important to crown your 2x before laying out stringers. Also good to add a 2x4/6 kicker to the bottom of the stringer so you can attach the stairs to the floor they’re sitting on. Just notch it into the bottom of each stringer & cut it to the length you need. From the front of the rise back(it’ll be flush to the front of the stringers when done correctly)…you do good work young buck, keep it up.
Hey brother well done. Good job putting it together prior it makes installing much easier. Not sure what the requirement are where you’re at but is there no connection to the bottom of the stringers required on your stairs there? We always add a piece of 2x pt on the concrete here and attach it to the bottom of the stringers
That was my question. Where I am in Maine, we have to have a PT 2x notched into the outside edge on the bottom of the stringers, we need to isolate the PT from the concrete with sill sealer or flashing tape and that PT 2x has to be attached to the concrete. The other thing we have to do is have the intersection at the landing to the wall supported either with a ledger on the wall with joist hangers, the ledger under the joists and/or posts under the ledger to the floor again, isolating the bottom of the posts or the bottom PT plate for the wall from the concrete.
@@Coffmanconstruction maybe they're replacing them later. If they're not carpet stairs you shouldn't bother putting risers on. Let the trim guy put the risers and permanent treads on with glue. Like your videos, keep up the good work. I use a multitool to cut out the little leftovers on the triangles. I find it makes a nice flat cut and flips back and forth pretty well.
How long you been doing this type of work?? I’m 21 Just started with a framing company couple months ago with no experience at all except for building crates. I’m starting to get the hang of it more and more each day how long did it take till you were official comfortable doing the job as you are now ?? Love your vids man
Yo dude! Thanks for watching! I’ve been working for the company for 6 years now, but about 2-1/2 years ago was when I really started to pick it up, probably that one year i grew like 80% in my knowledge and confidence! My biggest advice is just talking to other people! Over Instagram, podcasts, UA-cam videos, forums, any information you can find will put you ahead! Thanks again nick!
Hallo, ich hätte im Deck Blocks hinter den Treppenwangen eingebaut und die wand darunter, hinter der Treppe geschlossen. So könnte die Treppe auch besser aufliegen und würde nicht nur am OSB hängen.
Your calculator should have the code rise & run stored & head height (if necessary) too. So all you have to do is type in your rise which would be 29-1/4 then hit your rise button followed by your conversion button & finally your stair button & your calculator with give you your tread, riser & your stringer length & you can do this on any stairs you build… you can also go one step further & calculate your riser 7-5/16 & your tread let’s say 10” (you would input 7-5/16 rise 10” run & hit the diagonal button 12-3/8) now you have 3 points to scribe your risers & treads you’ll never grow even a 1/16 using this method.
Mark the inside of the square and move the square and line up the outside side. It will be 1”1/2 or 2” different depends on which way your moving the square. Like if the run is 10 on the inside of your square it will be 11”1/2 on the outside that way you can keep accuracy by always positioning your measurement on the line
Carpentry students here in South FL checking your videos for tips during class. Thanks Coffman Construction
So awesome! Thanks for watching! Good luck to you all 🤘🏼🤘🏼 let me know what else I can help with
Professional carpenter here (30yrs), good to see young guys doing excellent work and admitting still learning. Building and remodeling is always the same yet different and we should never stop learning and improving our skills.
I agree with you it's good seeing young people in the carpentry business I've been doing it for 32 years and I absolutely love it I wouldn't have it any other way
I agree with you it's good seeing young people in the carpentry business I've been doing it for 32 years and I absolutely love it I wouldn't have it any other way
We do our stairs exactly the same in MN except we glue between the top riser and joist, and the one on the floor. Keeps it from squeaking later on, etc... Sometimes builder's want us to notch out the bottom and run treated lumber on the slab, too. Nice job! 🇺🇸👍😊 It's nice seeing the younger generation stepping up. 🇺🇸
Keep it up man. It’s hard to find younger people joining the trade nowadays. Nobody wants to get their hands dirty. It’s good to see a younger crew out there.
Yes sir! I’m proud to say we have a bunch of young recruits with us now!
Best tutorial for stairs ever
Risers! A tread and a riser. Love this video
I use the same framing square and buttons exactly haha. I also like to build my stairs as a unit and set it instead of each stringer individually if i can. All stairs come down to is math, layout, and cutting with a saw! Each veteran carpenter I worked with and was taught by all build stairs differently. Nice video man.
That’s sick man you’re very good. The way I learned was using treated 2x4 and fastening to the concrete and notching the risers to sit on it. Very cool to see a different and experienced way of doing this
They look nice but you can't use plywood or osb to hang the stairs off the landing. You need to either use hangers or post them up from the concrete floor. Also, you need some hangers for your landing floor joists and you cant just nail the joist to the studs at the exterior wall. You could post under each joist at that wall but you make drywalling it a nightmare as you will need to cover any and all wall penetrations for fire. You will also need to add a vaper barrier under any untreated wood to concrete.
You almost got it though. Keep up the hard work.
The joists are posted, Hangered, and the house is well past inspection and getting flooring done by now. Had zero issues with any of this section! Never added posts under the stairs. The plywood was sufficient
@@Coffmanconstruction Congrats on getting away with it anyway.
Cool video. This guy is right, Simpson stringer straps are code. Plywood isn’t appropriate to hold stairs securely for years. The other comments on securing stairs to where they land is also best practice. Stairs ain’t nothing to mess with. In the trades we always wanna keep improving. Forever. Thanks.
Always important to crown your 2x before laying out stringers. Also good to add a 2x4/6 kicker to the bottom of the stringer so you can attach the stairs to the floor they’re sitting on. Just notch it into the bottom of each stringer & cut it to the length you need. From the front of the rise back(it’ll be flush to the front of the stringers when done correctly)…you do good work young buck, keep it up.
You laid out the stringers the same way I learned almost 50 years ago and still do to this day.
love every video man. trying to learn and helps a lot
Hey brother well done. Good job putting it together prior it makes installing much easier. Not sure what the requirement are where you’re at but is there no connection to the bottom of the stringers required on your stairs there? We always add a piece of 2x pt on the concrete here and attach it to the bottom of the stringers
In this case it wasn’t necessary to fasten to the floor for some reason, I’m not totally sure why 🤔
That was my question. Where I am in Maine, we have to have a PT 2x notched into the outside edge on the bottom of the stringers, we need to isolate the PT from the concrete with sill sealer or flashing tape and that PT 2x has to be attached to the concrete.
The other thing we have to do is have the intersection at the landing to the wall supported either with a ledger on the wall with joist hangers, the ledger under the joists and/or posts under the ledger to the floor again, isolating the bottom of the posts or the bottom PT plate for the wall from the concrete.
@@Coffmanconstruction maybe they're replacing them later. If they're not carpet stairs you shouldn't bother putting risers on. Let the trim guy put the risers and permanent treads on with glue. Like your videos, keep up the good work. I use a multitool to cut out the little leftovers on the triangles. I find it makes a nice flat cut and flips back and forth pretty well.
Excellent.
Hi love your video’s. Could you do like a review or close up look of the badger toolbelt? I’ve been thinking about getting one.
You bet! I’ve got one coming soon! Filming on Wednesday!
Loved it dude! Also you got the GoPro attachment!!!!!
That’s right! I learned from the best!
Awesome video man keep up the good work.
Thanks so much for watching! Hoping to be more consistent from here on out!
Would you do the plywood at the top on a stringer of 8 stairs ? Or would you run the actual stringer all the way up
How long you been doing this type of work?? I’m 21 Just started with a framing company couple months ago with no experience at all except for building crates. I’m starting to get the hang of it more and more each day how long did it take till you were official comfortable doing the job as you are now ?? Love your vids man
Yo dude! Thanks for watching!
I’ve been working for the company for 6 years now, but about 2-1/2 years ago was when I really started to pick it up, probably that one year i grew like 80% in my knowledge and confidence!
My biggest advice is just talking to other people!
Over Instagram, podcasts, UA-cam videos, forums, any information you can find will put you ahead!
Thanks again nick!
Hallo, ich hätte im Deck Blocks hinter den Treppenwangen eingebaut und die wand darunter, hinter der Treppe geschlossen. So könnte die Treppe auch besser aufliegen und würde nicht nur am OSB hängen.
Love your explanation! Was your stair stringer a 2x8, 2x10 or 2x12?
2x12!
I’m starting my journey doing lunch work framing, building my knowledge base.
Awesome! That’s the way to go! Seeking knowledge will take you far above the competition
Didn’t catch the part you dropped from 32” to 29” why did you go 3” down and how did it help with slope of the concrete
His laser height off the subfloor was 3" higher, so when his line hit 32" he had to subtract 3" to get the correct rise, 29". Hope that helps.
@@loganfluegel925 thanks man
hey man could you make a video about popping lines for plates thatd be awesome
Yes sir! You’ll be glad to hear that’s one of my next videos!!
In nc we got to do a treated 2by4 kicker at the bottom of stringer . anything touching concrete has to be treated in nc.period
Your calculator should have the code rise & run stored & head height (if necessary) too.
So all you have to do is type in your rise which would be 29-1/4 then hit your rise button followed by your conversion button & finally your stair button & your calculator with give you your tread, riser & your stringer length & you can do this on any stairs you build… you can also go one step further & calculate your riser 7-5/16 & your tread let’s say 10” (you would input 7-5/16 rise 10” run & hit the diagonal button 12-3/8) now you have 3 points to scribe your risers & treads you’ll never grow even a 1/16 using this method.
Mark the inside of the square and move the square and line up the outside side. It will be 1”1/2 or 2” different depends on which way your moving the square. Like if the run is 10 on the inside of your square it will be 11”1/2 on the outside that way you can keep accuracy by always positioning your measurement on the line
Makita 40v or metabo rear handle??
Metabo every day!
The makita doesn’t even feel that good anymore compared to the Metabo!
@@Coffmanconstruction You shut your dirty mouth!
@@Coffmanconstruction blasphemy !!
Hahahah, I still love the 40v, but I only take it out of my other two Metabo saws are in use. My 36v makita though is time to retire. I never touch it
YOU FORGOT TO FASTEN THE STAIRCASE TO THE SLAB...
THE STAIR SLAYER...