Old guy here. I've acquired a stable of Ti bikes over the years. General rule, small diameter tubing means more flex. More flex equals softer ride. Older bikers know that a smooth cadence with frame flex is all day comfort. Todays pedal smashers get every inch of forward momentum with stiffer frames. Larger head tubes, down tubes, seat stays take away frame flex. My older Litespeeds, lightweight Seven Aerios, and basic R150 Lynskey are comfy bikes requiring a smooth pedal stroke. My larger tubed Seven Axiom, and tube manipulated Lynskeys ride stiffer. Much like my thinner steel Gunnar roadie flexes more than my heavy steel Soma Smoothie. Oh FYI, the Enve single bolt saddle clamp on a lynskey Ti post works much better (no expansion).
Wow.. you have an impressive stable of bikes… you should check out my latest videos on my new custom steel bike.. now that’s smooth… thanks for watching..
Nice collection... I have the Axiom XX now with just under 50K mi and it still rides like new. The Aerios was hit by car, so not so lucky. Sticking with Ti, I need a travel bike and No 22 has the best de-coupler on the market, though I think Seven has the superior tubing manufacturing.
I have a custom made titanium frame and the reason I chose the builder (here in the US) was because he had almost 30 years of experience building bikes and he specialized in titanium. The frame looked like a racing frame with no gimmicks like what Bastion and many other do. The price was also a consideration and I thought for a custom built frame to my body size there weren't any better deals out there. This guy worked with me on my selection of tubing sizes and what I wanted the bike for. The best handling bike I ever rode was my Colnago M10 so I asked him to copy that geometry only better sized to my body which was something Colnago did not offer with that frame. My bike doesn't have that comfort level of a steel bike frame, it is rather stiff because of the tubing I chose but for some reason I like the ride and can stay on the bike all day if I wanted to. The look of raw titanium isn't bad but I painted my frame because I wanted to make it mine. I have chosen all titanium or aluminum parts and components. I have some aero carbon wheels but took them off for a pair of aluminum wheels with ONYX Vesper hubs, I like those hubs because they are silent. After owning probably 20 bikes in my history of cycling I am done buying bikes and this one has contributed to making that decision. Click on my avatar to see it if you're curious. Thanks for showing and talking about your bike, I like it. You might want to ditch the ENVE seatpost and pick up a Titanium Thomson if that ENVE gives you any more problems. The titanium posts are more comfortable than carbon.
Hi Charles.. many thanks for checking out the channel and commenting on your experience in sourcing a custom Ti bike.. not sure I am done buying bikes, but if I was to pick one and be done it would be another No22 or similar boutique Ti design house… be well, Matt
Thanks for the review. I just received my first titanium bike (after 6 months waiting), a T-Lab R3 Omni - made in Montreal. I haven't even had the opportunity to test drive it yet. I just get to look at it gleaming in my hallway. Can't wait to take it for a first spin here in Berlin.
Damn!! You're going to love that bike!! There really is something very special about Ti - I hope you love it!! Thanks for checking out the channel!! Matt
@@mylifeon2wheels1 Thanks! I've enjoyed your videos (really like the music editing too). As a Canadian (and Ottawa) ex-pat in Germany, I really wanted to ride around on a Canadian bike. I was delighted to learn about T-Lab.
@@JWFloyd I have heard great things about T-Lab... No22 is kinda Canadian.. kind of... I bought mine directly from one of the founders, Mike Smith who is based in Toronto - some good CanCon right there!!
When I bought my Ti bike, a narrowed it down to No. 22, Firefly, and Sage. Ended up with the Sage and couldn't be happier. I bought just the frame and seatpost and sourced and built the bike myself. Dave at Sage was an absolute blast to work with. We spent a lot of time going over each component and geometry and we both made sure there was not going to be any toe overlap. I do get a lot of looks and people gawking at the bike. Sometimes it's cool, sometimes it makes me nervous. I cannot leave this bike out of my sight. The only other complaint I have is that it's like owning a stainless steel appliance. Every time I touch it, there are finger prints everywhere. ROJ had a video about there where he bought a spray coating for it.
Hey, thanks for watching.. yeah, finger prints are a thing with Ti bikes.. ROJ really struggled with his.. check out my vlog on my replacement bike. I went custom steel and couldn’t be happier…
I love my Ti bikes, I honestly think on balance taking everything into account Ti Frame + Carbon components is the Apex for the non competitive rider that can only justify a small "stable". The biggest enemies of Ti are the preconceived notions that "It will be super light" and the old "It's like a magic carpet ride" Neither of these things are true compared to modern carbon and even some of the later high end Aluminium. What you get with Ti is your best shot at a "forever bike" both in terms of sheer longevity, and looks. Plus the thing I love the most about Ti: 2 Hours some Scotch bright and a can of WD-40 and it looks brand new!
I recently replaced my old titanium bike frame with a new smaller one, because the old one was too big (I had to use a six or seven centimeter stem). Even though I've gone from a 56 top tube down to a 54 top tube, the new bike frame is actually about 200 grams heavier. I think the bike builders have decided that the best way to counter flex in titanium frames is to not grout them as heavily as they used to. It is more responsive, but I had thought the smaller tubes would've made it more responsive anyway. Another trend I've noticed is for frame builders to want to use steeper seat tube angles. My old one was 73 degree but the new one is 71. It helps with the toe over-lap, I suppose, but it means the seat has to go so far back it adds to the effective length of the top tube. Both were bought from Enigma, based in Hailsham, England.
Hey thanks for your feedback… I am getting a custom steel bike designed right now and will be interested to see what they say about the head tube angle as I did mention the toe overlap issue with my No22 Ti frame
Thanks for your honest review. The feel of the bike, for me, isn't a minor hair-spliltting drawback, but a major issue between buying and not buying. I've been on the fence when it comes to Ti simply because I've never ridden one before.
Similar experience. Got a Moots and yes, the ENVE seat post was more difficult to adjust than my other bikes (sworks rodies). I get toe rub. Mine got disc, so getting front disc squeal after long descent. First world problems. Love the bike. :)
I have a custom raw stainless steel rig with an OEM carbon fork and 50mm hoops. I've had guys with $15K bikes turn their heads like I was riding a Speeder Bike from Revenge of The Jedi. I also spec'd it with a gorgeous Ti seat post and a full Fizik carbon bar, seating & stem and transferred the 11 speed 105 group from my SuperSix on to it (which got a Dura-Ace 9100 groupset). A No22 was on my radar at one point. Still might be. But the stainless frame still rides like a steel bike, but with a lot more stiffness & is really stable at speed and she's at 8kg which is not bad at all especially for a steel bike with an all-gravel build kit (28c's). It felt AWESOME to be riding a modern steel bike and going over any road irregularities without worrying about it like I used to with plastic bikes. I don't know if I'll buy carbon or aluminum again. Right after this one, I got a vintage Tomassini Super Prestige with Dura-Ace 7400. I have a vintage mid-90's Trek MTB (know for their nice ride feel on the trails) and a Magnesium gravel bike coming in any day now. It's a good time to be a cyclist right now and I'm loving the return to more proven classic designs and non-proprietary options (traditional double triangle frames, non-BB30's, standard 27.2 seat tubes, rim brake options coming back, etc...).
Thanks for your comments!! I certainly have a steel bike on the cards for a future purchase.. check out Mariposa boutique steel bikes out of Toronto.. super sweet!!
Hey thanks… going to be interesting to see/feel the difference between this Ti beauty and the new custom steel bike I have coming in a few weeks.. thanks for watching!
Recently I had an Alchemy Eros which I rode in Montreal. It was almost identical to your No22. I thought the ride was brutal (especially on MTL roads, so I swapped out all the ENVE gear and replaced with Bonrager RSL. Ride was transformed. Unfortunately the frame was electronic only and I wanted to back to mechanical so I let it go. I’ve started saving for a No 22!
Thanks, Harry.. I recall one ride around Ottawa on the No22 and the roads were in brutal shape.. I felt every crack and bump in the road. And I thought it odd that the ride of the Ti frame would be similar to that of carbon.. stiff and unforgiving… but maybe backing off the tire pressure and having wider tires may help with the crap road conditions us Canadians have to endure!!
1. The Enve seatpost you don't like...I have one, but it's a set-back. Installed it w/no problems, and the increased vibration absorption is well worth the cost. The adjusting bolts on the side of the mounting apparatus makes adjusting it much easier than traditional seatposts. I think your dislikes of this seatpost are unique to you. 2. Toe overlap: as you said, 99% of the time it's not an issue, so hardly worth mentioning. Especially if you love the frame. 3. Your brake vibration issue: you got that problem fixed, so it didn't even need to be mentioned. I've had titanium frames for over 20 years and never a problem with brake vibration or noise. 4. Ride feel: my titanium frame feels more like steel than anything else (which I love), but won't corrode or need paint, so that aesthetic makes it very desirable. If your titanium frame feels a lot like carbon, it's not the titanium. Regardless of frame material, vertical compliance is the same for almost all frames. What makes the biggest difference in feel is tire width & pressure, and seatpost flexibility (which can be increased by using a set-back post, carbon fiber, and suspension). 5. If you get a custom titanium frame, you have to start with a competent bike fit (did you do that? sounds like you didn't), get the frame built to the exact dimension you need for the type of riding you do, use a set-back seatpost and as low pressure tires as is practical. I ride on 28 mm clinchers and am very comfortable.
Thanks for your review. Wow the dislikes you mentioned sound like a major issue with me. Being a high end boutique those dislikes are a no no. Now I will have to reconsider getting this brand.
Interesting that your video showed up in my suggested watches today when I just put down a down payment on a custom Ti frame from Waltly. I'm so looking forward to building it up in the spring (they've told me 2 months after design is confirmed to actually build it, so probably mid-late April before I get it done). I've been riding a fairly cheap Giant aluminum frame for the past 11 years, so I can't wait to see if Ti really is as good as everyone says it is.
Hey Luke.. ah the marvels of the UA-cam algorithm!! Excited for you!! Do you mind me asking why you decided on Titanium? Thanks for checking out the channel!! Matt
@@mylifeon2wheels1 I was planning on buying a new road bike this year as my old bike is a bit of a frankenbike (it's an aluminum Giant that I converted from hybrid to as much of a road bike as it can be and I figure given how much I've been riding in recent years I deserve to treat myself with an actual dedicated road bike). I had thought I was going to go with a Specialized Allez Sprint aluminum frame as the basis for my new build, but then I saw a video from youtuber China Cycling that talked about how you could get a custom titanium frame from Waltly for less than the Specialized frame cost. After looking into Waltly and seeing how other people had had good experiences with them, it seemed to me to be a no brainer, especially as I've always loved the look of titanium and had read many times about how wonderful titanium is to ride.
Get the No22 Titanium seat post a total game changer. I have a steel Chumba gravel bike and paired it with my No22 Titanium seat post it made my already silky smooth steel bike even better. I think it would do the same on their own frame. Great review.
@@mylifeon2wheels1 You won't regret it, but it does use the Enve bolt/bracket system which I agree with you, isn't the best, but the compliance is amazing.
I am not a professional bike mechanic, but a CNC engineer by trade. Bikes are my huge hobby, so I am constantly building all sorts of bicycles. Also at age of over 40, I still don't have a driving licence, so I'm riding a lot. To address a few things you mentioned. If you want a good, light seatpost with a good clamp, go for USE Alien, USE EVO91 or USE Sumo. All three come in carbon versions, are not overpriced and are very light (Sumo being the heaviest). All three got different clamp designs, so I'm sure you will find one that suits you. As for the vibrations while braking, sounds to me like you really "masked" the problem, not solved it. I know that the frame is a custom build, but did you check if it is properly aligned? I mean seat stays and the brake mounting bit? I had a similar problem on my "Trek District 1st" and the little "cross-section tube" between seat stays, where the brake calliper is mounted was slightly out of wack. As for the stiffness, I believe it's up to the components you chose. Stiff carbon seatpost, carbon wheels, carbon fork, probably saddle with Ti, or carbon rails. All that bits and bobs will make your ride feel stiff/harsh, but probably more responsive. And to address the last bit, which is weight. Titanium frames are usually a bit heavier than carbon ones. On top of that, I see that you are using Dura-Ace Di2 which by its nature is much heavier than let's say Dura-Ace 7800, which is strictly a mechanical groupset. Weight is a penalty you pay for electronic shifting. Add to this deep rim section wheels (again the weight is a penalty for aerodynamics) and the wider tyres at 28mm or 30mm, add it all up and suddenly your build seems to be a bit on the heavier side. I hope it helps to solve at least some of your issues with this lovely ride.
Wow... many thanks for all of those tips... I had not checked the alignment. Is there a way of checking that outside of calling No22? You're right though, the damper between the caliper and frame is a band-aid solution... I will investigate those seat-posts!!
@@mylifeon2wheels1 I'm not sure how to check the alignment without some special measuring equipment, but I did ask the Artificial Intelligence, out of curiosity, called GPT-3 (it's an online language model free to use) and this is what it came up with: "To check the alignment of the seat stays on your bicycle frame at home, you can use a string or a straight edge. First, make sure your bike is on a level surface. Next, attach one end of the string or straight edge to the dropout on one side of the rear wheel and the other end to the dropout on the other side. The string or straight edge should be tight and parallel to the ground. If the string or straight edge is not parallel to the ground, it means that the seat stays are misaligned. Another way is to look at the rear wheel and check that it is centred between the stays. It's also possible to check by putting the bike upside down and checking that the distance from the ground to the upper side of the stays is the same for both sides". If it's really bad, you would see it with the bare eye. The method that AI came up with may not be perfect, but it may help. Does the brake calliper feel like it got any torsional movement? This potentially could cause something called "torsional vibration" as well. It's hard to say without actually looking at the bike in person, what causes the vibration.
Already watched the Steel bike video, that was awesome as well. I grew up riding steel frames, even before aluminum alloy became common. Of course those steel frames were relatively heavy and certainly nothing like your modern steel bike. I think your color choice was perfect as well, almost looks like Ti.
Ride quality can be a function of the Ti alloy used in the frame build. 6Al/4V tends to be more stiff and less vibration damping than 3Al/2.5V. Not sure about the No 22 but I have a Lynskey R340 that is made with all 3Al/2.5V alloy tubes and the ride is very smooth. Of course no rigid frame is going to swallow up big bumps but the Ti will definitely smooth out the high frequency road buzz that you sometime feel on roads with a more course surface and small cracks and imperfections. The other thing that could be affecting your ride quality is the wheel choice. Deeper dish carbon wheels are way stiffer than lower profile alloy rims. There is a trade off as with all component choices. They are going to be faster (if that really is important to you) but they will not be as plush. Having a set of low profile alloy hoops for more casual, long distance fun rides, is a great option and they are generally pretty cost effective. Then you can use the carbon rims for race paced competitive club rides or races. Loved the video and the bike.
Hey Robert.. thanks for the feedback.. not sure what alloy No22 used on this build, but will ask… thanks for watching (check out my latest videos on my new steel bike… very comfy)
I just stumbled across your video and channel; really enjoyed it! I am starting a No22 build (aurora) and like you, never rode a full Ti bike. I am mainly a full carbon rider (SL7, Dogma F, etc) and also envision your initial impression of Ti. You mentioned the stiff like feeling compared to your full carbon, how about the responsiveness when out of the saddle? Any reason you chose a carbon seatpost vs the Ti offering that No22 has? Thank you for making the video and sharing your thoughts!
Hey Robert, Ahhh, the Aurora.... the bike of my dreams!!! Lucky man!!! The Ti bike is very responsive - it's not as twitchy as a superlight carbon sled - feels way more planted (if that makes sense)... Check out my other vlogs on my new steel bike, the Mariposa - now that's a comfy ride!! I would have gone with the a Ti seatpost, but bought the bike with the Enve carbon one - I have the same seat post on my new bike - just think the Ti post adds a bit more comfort - but comfort may not be what you're looking for?
@@mylifeon2wheels1 Thank you! I forgot to mention in my original post that I was laughing when you were subscribing the over engineering of the ENVE seat post. That was my exact experience and I felt it required a PhD to figure out!
@@robertdevito8928 Right??? Like why over complicate it!!! Still very frustrating and I have a mild panic attack if I feel I need to make any adjustments to the saddle position!! 🙂
I have three bike but if I bought a 4th it will be a Ti. Now how and who do trust to take the measurements? I have a small and a medium frame bikes and I honestly still dont know what is my size.
I have a TI gravel bike (Lynskey GR250) and a Trek Emonda SL5 carbon road bike. The Emonda seems to be absorbing road vibrations pretty well; running 28 mm tires, the widest that my rim brakes can handle.
@@mylifeon2wheels1 I once had 32 mm road tires on my gravel bike (with discs); that was a plush ride on pavement. Rim brakes typically cannot handle anything wider than 28mm.
Nice breakdown video for the likes and dislikes. I’m a full steel kind of guy but always have been curious of titanium. I wonder if there’s titanium builds with titanium forks instead of carbon?
New steel bike just ordered!! Should take possession in about 8 weeks.. full custom build.. that’s a good question.. seems to be mostly carbon from what I can tell… the steel bike will also have a carbon fork.. for weight savings?
Lovely bike. I have a titanium Enigma; certainly not boutique at the moment but I'm working on it. What saddle bag are you using there, it looks cool for a saddle bag!
Nice review video, I also have a Ti Bike, Serotta, made in the US, with a carbon seat stay system, and a unique suspension between the seat stays and the chain stays, using a pivot system. I've had many carbon frames over the years, but the Serotta rides best of all of my carbon frames. Is your frame made in the West, or is it a Chinese built frame? Your bike looks nice and it has a nice groupo from what I can see. By any chance are you also an audiophile? I see a lot of CDs in the background. Many bike fans also are into audio and music as another hobby. Stay safe and enjoy your new Ti bike.
Hi, I have a bit of the same problem with my steel bike, the noise and vibration in the rear break. What kind of damping did you guys use? Thanks in advance.
that junk box makes me happy i waited to upgrade. Sad/mad that shimano has no rim brake wirelss! My lynskey has toe lap and its due to being a touring frame geo.
I have had a few titanium bikes. I currently have a Seven with 44mm head tube as most have today. 44mm head tubes do not belong on any bicycle if you actually care about ride quality. 44mm head tubes are configured as such to sell you carbon forks manufactured through outsourced labor.
@@catherineseiferth259 44 mm head tubes only exist to accommodate the trend towards carbon (made in china) forks. These larger head tubes were not a solution to the non-existing problem of "flexy head tubes". Because head tubes are larger so that they can make large carbon forks with larger blades and larger steer tubes, the result is an ultra stiff fork and head tube area. When they spec a 44mm head tube, it says they don't care about ride quality. They care more about following the trend of cheap outsourced manufacturing. My next bike will be fully custom, steel and with a 1" head tube, because that's the optimal diameter based on steel's weight, strength while maintaining comfort. That or a Ritchey, who still maintains straight head tubes and forks. Some of the right flex instills more confidence as the bike will absorb more vibrations. Too stiff and the bike feels nervous over rougher terrain.
Catherine Seiferth - Exactly! Nothing is inherently wrong with a 44mm headtube and fork as that clown claims. A bicycle’s headtube has literally next to nothing to do with making a bike ride more or less comfortable and any framebuilder will tell you this. 44mm headtubes were developed to improve the handling of DH and XC MTB racing bikes. It literally had nothing to do with the goal of outsourcing stuff. It’s amazing how idiots will just post complete nonsense on the internet. Why would 44mm headtubes and their forks have to be invented if outsourcing was the purpose behind them? Loads of 1 inch and 1 1/8th inch headtubes and their forks were already outsourced long before any 44mm headtube was ever fabricated on a single bike frameset. That guy sounds like nothing more than some angry and clueless nationalist hack on a rant. 😀
Complete urban legend BS! The vertical flex in a frameset of any material including steel is so little that the claims of comfort or a magical carpet ride are beyond ridiculous. The vast majority of vertical compliance leading to comfort in a complete bike system comes far more from your wheels if they are designed to have more flex in them (lower profile and higher spike count), your tires and the PSI you run them at, your seatpost and its built in flex capabilities, your bars and their built in flex, the bar tape you use and your saddle. Unless your frameset has actual active suspension built into it like a typical non-hard tail MTB your double triangle bike frame regardless of the material it is made of provides virtually zero serious amounts of vertical compliance to produce meaningful increased rider comfort. A simple low profile rimmed wheelset with a higher spike count run with tires at a lower psi will flex and produce exponentially more movement in the vertical plane compared to any rigid steel bicycle frame ever built. That’s reality despite all the urban legend boomer BS claims of “steel is real” and “ohhhh my steel ride is soooo springy and comfy” BS! As for a 44mm headtube resulting in an uncomfortable ride more complete nonsensical BS on your part. There has literally never been a single headtube built for a bicycle that magically provided loads of additional comfort for a rider compared to other headtubes. The headtube’s purpose has nothing to do with providing vertical compliance or comfort and any even semi informed frame builder will tell you this. And FYI, there are loads of 1 inch and 1 1/8th inch forks whose production was outsourced and manufactured overseas long before any 44mm headtube was ever built into a bicycle frameset so your claim that 44mm headtubes and their forks were designed simply to enable outsourcing of them is also nonsensical BS. But I’ll admit reading your silly drivel did provide for some laughs and was good comedy. 😀
And FYI dummy, 44mm headtubes were never made to solve a “flexy headtube problem” clown. They were made to allow use of a larger diameter steerer in the fork for DH and XC MTB racers to reduce flex in the fork to improve handling under high speed and loads. 😀
Enve's seat post adjustment clamp is just plain dumb. There is NO REASON why it should be that complicated. Despite its beauty (without the two-bolt clamp) never will I have that post again.
This was really useful, but hard to watch because your music volume is about 10x louder than it needs to be (intro, transitions). Appreciate all the thought put into the video, though.
Hey... I would say steel.. having ridden carbon and Ti and steel - I would say from a pure comfort standpoint steel wins hands down... the way it just absorbs the bumps and cracks is incredible... weight is the penalty for this comfort...
@@mylifeon2wheels1 I agree with that. I've never ridden really good steel frames (I have an early '80s Raleigh), but it is steel the most comfortable. See what I did there? Ha ha Besides weight, the flex in the chain stays is what I don't like so much. Appreciate the reply.
Attention? People wave at fixies with colored rims. This? Frame isn't even painted! So, it depends. Bike nerds will notice your Ti bike but for most of people flashy painted entry level hybrid with matching handlebars and pedals will look more unusual and adorable.
I ride a custom titanium gravel bike built by Hugh black of true North Cycle out of Fergus Ontario. It's the smoothest bike I've ever owned, it does everything that I wanted to do and then some. I think the ride quality comes down to the tube selection in my opinion.
Cheap titanium bikes, let me know if I missed some I'm looking to get a sub 3000$ titanium bike: Ribble cgr ti Planet x tempest Titus road runner Motobecane le champion ti Dolan titanium adx Spa cycle elan Sonder colibri ti Triban 900 ti Chumba tengula ti Waltley custom
I’m thinking of getting a used version of this bike! Thanks for the great video. Question. How much do you weight? I’m trying to see if my higher weight will make the for a more compliant ride. Thanks again !
Too much pomp & narcissism here…” couldn’t build bike like this oday for under $15k…. Tell me what else you’re in the market for, love to sell you something. ✌️
Bikes of today are too expensive; you're literally riding a car. Did you do a test ride before you bought it? You should have gone with Seven 7, or Dean titanium.
Old guy here. I've acquired a stable of Ti bikes over the years. General rule, small diameter tubing means more flex. More flex equals softer ride. Older bikers know that a smooth cadence with frame flex is all day comfort. Todays pedal smashers get every inch of forward momentum with stiffer frames. Larger head tubes, down tubes, seat stays take away frame flex. My older Litespeeds, lightweight Seven Aerios, and basic R150 Lynskey are comfy bikes requiring a smooth pedal stroke. My larger tubed Seven Axiom, and tube manipulated Lynskeys ride stiffer. Much like my thinner steel Gunnar roadie flexes more than my heavy steel Soma Smoothie. Oh FYI, the Enve single bolt saddle clamp on a lynskey Ti post works much better (no expansion).
Wow.. you have an impressive stable of bikes… you should check out my latest videos on my new custom steel bike.. now that’s smooth… thanks for watching..
Nice collection... I have the Axiom XX now with just under 50K mi and it still rides like new. The Aerios was hit by car, so not so lucky. Sticking with Ti, I need a travel bike and No 22 has the best de-coupler on the market, though I think Seven has the superior tubing manufacturing.
I have 6 ti bikes
Seven
Seven
Moots RSL
Eriksen
Titus
Mosaic
And no car
I have a couple of custom bikes and they always garner attention. The best deal is that you get to make it yours.
I have a custom made titanium frame and the reason I chose the builder (here in the US) was because he had almost 30 years of experience building bikes and he specialized in titanium. The frame looked like a racing frame with no gimmicks like what Bastion and many other do. The price was also a consideration and I thought for a custom built frame to my body size there weren't any better deals out there. This guy worked with me on my selection of tubing sizes and what I wanted the bike for. The best handling bike I ever rode was my Colnago M10 so I asked him to copy that geometry only better sized to my body which was something Colnago did not offer with that frame. My bike doesn't have that comfort level of a steel bike frame, it is rather stiff because of the tubing I chose but for some reason I like the ride and can stay on the bike all day if I wanted to. The look of raw titanium isn't bad but I painted my frame because I wanted to make it mine. I have chosen all titanium or aluminum parts and components. I have some aero carbon wheels but took them off for a pair of aluminum wheels with ONYX Vesper hubs, I like those hubs because they are silent. After owning probably 20 bikes in my history of cycling I am done buying bikes and this one has contributed to making that decision. Click on my avatar to see it if you're curious. Thanks for showing and talking about your bike, I like it. You might want to ditch the ENVE seatpost and pick up a Titanium Thomson if that ENVE gives you any more problems. The titanium posts are more comfortable than carbon.
Hi Charles.. many thanks for checking out the channel and commenting on your experience in sourcing a custom Ti bike.. not sure I am done buying bikes, but if I was to pick one and be done it would be another No22 or similar boutique Ti design house… be well, Matt
Thanks for the review. I just received my first titanium bike (after 6 months waiting), a T-Lab R3 Omni - made in Montreal. I haven't even had the opportunity to test drive it yet. I just get to look at it gleaming in my hallway. Can't wait to take it for a first spin here in Berlin.
Damn!! You're going to love that bike!! There really is something very special about Ti - I hope you love it!! Thanks for checking out the channel!! Matt
@@mylifeon2wheels1 Thanks! I've enjoyed your videos (really like the music editing too). As a Canadian (and Ottawa) ex-pat in Germany, I really wanted to ride around on a Canadian bike. I was delighted to learn about T-Lab.
@@JWFloyd I have heard great things about T-Lab... No22 is kinda Canadian.. kind of... I bought mine directly from one of the founders, Mike Smith who is based in Toronto - some good CanCon right there!!
Serioulsy looking at this bike! Please let me know your thoughts and impressions after riding it.
When I bought my Ti bike, a narrowed it down to No. 22, Firefly, and Sage. Ended up with the Sage and couldn't be happier. I bought just the frame and seatpost and sourced and built the bike myself. Dave at Sage was an absolute blast to work with. We spent a lot of time going over each component and geometry and we both made sure there was not going to be any toe overlap.
I do get a lot of looks and people gawking at the bike. Sometimes it's cool, sometimes it makes me nervous. I cannot leave this bike out of my sight.
The only other complaint I have is that it's like owning a stainless steel appliance. Every time I touch it, there are finger prints everywhere. ROJ had a video about there where he bought a spray coating for it.
Hey, thanks for watching.. yeah, finger prints are a thing with Ti bikes.. ROJ really struggled with his.. check out my vlog on my replacement bike. I went custom steel and couldn’t be happier…
I love my Ti bikes, I honestly think on balance taking everything into account Ti Frame + Carbon components is the Apex for the non competitive rider that can only justify a small "stable". The biggest enemies of Ti are the preconceived notions that "It will be super light" and the old "It's like a magic carpet ride" Neither of these things are true compared to modern carbon and even some of the later high end Aluminium.
What you get with Ti is your best shot at a "forever bike" both in terms of sheer longevity, and looks. Plus the thing I love the most about Ti: 2 Hours some Scotch bright and a can of WD-40 and it looks brand new!
Agreed..100%.. thanks for watching.. new video coming soon on the additions of a new bike!! carbon? Ti? steel? 👍🏻
Appreciate you sharing your experience with the bike. Many thanks!
I recently replaced my old titanium bike frame with a new smaller one, because the old one was too big (I had to use a six or seven centimeter stem). Even though I've gone from a 56 top tube down to a 54 top tube, the new bike frame is actually about 200 grams heavier. I think the bike builders have decided that the best way to counter flex in titanium frames is to not grout them as heavily as they used to. It is more responsive, but I had thought the smaller tubes would've made it more responsive anyway. Another trend I've noticed is for frame builders to want to use steeper seat tube angles. My old one was 73 degree but the new one is 71. It helps with the toe over-lap, I suppose, but it means the seat has to go so far back it adds to the effective length of the top tube. Both were bought from Enigma, based in Hailsham, England.
Hey thanks for your feedback… I am getting a custom steel bike designed right now and will be interested to see what they say about the head tube angle as I did mention the toe overlap issue with my No22 Ti frame
Thanks for your honest review. The feel of the bike, for me, isn't a minor hair-spliltting drawback, but a major issue between buying and not buying. I've been on the fence when it comes to Ti simply because I've never ridden one before.
Similar experience. Got a Moots and yes, the ENVE seat post was more difficult to adjust than my other bikes (sworks rodies). I get toe rub. Mine got disc, so getting front disc squeal after long descent. First world problems. Love the bike. :)
First world problems, indeed!! Thanks for watching!!
does the squeal go away after a while? is it because of the heat generating from applying the brake on the descent? thanks
I have a custom raw stainless steel rig with an OEM carbon fork and 50mm hoops. I've had guys with $15K bikes turn their heads like I was riding a Speeder Bike from Revenge of The Jedi. I also spec'd it with a gorgeous Ti seat post and a full Fizik carbon bar, seating & stem and transferred the 11 speed 105 group from my SuperSix on to it (which got a Dura-Ace 9100 groupset). A No22 was on my radar at one point. Still might be. But the stainless frame still rides like a steel bike, but with a lot more stiffness & is really stable at speed and she's at 8kg which is not bad at all especially for a steel bike with an all-gravel build kit (28c's).
It felt AWESOME to be riding a modern steel bike and going over any road irregularities without worrying about it like I used to with plastic bikes. I don't know if I'll buy carbon or aluminum again. Right after this one, I got a vintage Tomassini Super Prestige with Dura-Ace 7400. I have a vintage mid-90's Trek MTB (know for their nice ride feel on the trails) and a Magnesium gravel bike coming in any day now. It's a good time to be a cyclist right now and I'm loving the return to more proven classic designs and non-proprietary options (traditional double triangle frames, non-BB30's, standard 27.2 seat tubes, rim brake options coming back, etc...).
Thanks for your comments!! I certainly have a steel bike on the cards for a future purchase.. check out Mariposa boutique steel bikes out of Toronto.. super sweet!!
Amazing beauty. I can imagine the looks you get on it. Interesting feedback on the ride feel...the mystique of Ti for sure.
Hey thanks… going to be interesting to see/feel the difference between this Ti beauty and the new custom steel bike I have coming in a few weeks.. thanks for watching!
Recently I had an Alchemy Eros which I rode in Montreal. It was almost identical to your No22.
I thought the ride was brutal (especially on MTL roads, so I swapped out all the ENVE gear and replaced with Bonrager RSL. Ride was transformed.
Unfortunately the frame was electronic only and I wanted to back to mechanical so I let it go. I’ve started saving for a No 22!
Thanks, Harry.. I recall one ride around Ottawa on the No22 and the roads were in brutal shape.. I felt every crack and bump in the road. And I thought it odd that the ride of the Ti frame would be similar to that of carbon.. stiff and unforgiving… but maybe backing off the tire pressure and having wider tires may help with the crap road conditions us Canadians have to endure!!
1. The Enve seatpost you don't like...I have one, but it's a set-back. Installed it w/no problems, and the increased vibration absorption is well worth the cost. The adjusting bolts on the side of the mounting apparatus makes adjusting it much easier than traditional seatposts. I think your dislikes of this seatpost are unique to you.
2. Toe overlap: as you said, 99% of the time it's not an issue, so hardly worth mentioning. Especially if you love the frame.
3. Your brake vibration issue: you got that problem fixed, so it didn't even need to be mentioned. I've had titanium frames for over 20 years and never a problem with brake vibration or noise.
4. Ride feel: my titanium frame feels more like steel than anything else (which I love), but won't corrode or need paint, so that aesthetic makes it very desirable. If your titanium frame feels a lot like carbon, it's not the titanium. Regardless of frame material, vertical compliance is the same for almost all frames. What makes the biggest difference in feel is tire width & pressure, and seatpost flexibility (which can be increased by using a set-back post, carbon fiber, and suspension).
5. If you get a custom titanium frame, you have to start with a competent bike fit (did you do that? sounds like you didn't), get the frame built to the exact dimension you need for the type of riding you do, use a set-back seatpost and as low pressure tires as is practical. I ride on 28 mm clinchers and am very comfortable.
Thanks for your review. Wow the dislikes you mentioned sound like a major issue with me. Being a high end boutique those dislikes are a no no. Now I will have to reconsider getting this brand.
Thanks for watching, Richard…
I was thinking the same thing (assuming the issues being the rear-brake vibration and toe overlap)
Surely a good custom frame design should eliminate toe overlap? Putting on 30mm tyres (taller, as well as wider) will exacerbate the problem.
Yeah, I did put 28's on and have yet to try them out for the road-feel aspect.. still have toe-overlap... thanks for watching..
Interesting that your video showed up in my suggested watches today when I just put down a down payment on a custom Ti frame from Waltly. I'm so looking forward to building it up in the spring (they've told me 2 months after design is confirmed to actually build it, so probably mid-late April before I get it done). I've been riding a fairly cheap Giant aluminum frame for the past 11 years, so I can't wait to see if Ti really is as good as everyone says it is.
Hey Luke.. ah the marvels of the UA-cam algorithm!! Excited for you!! Do you mind me asking why you decided on Titanium? Thanks for checking out the channel!! Matt
@@mylifeon2wheels1 I was planning on buying a new road bike this year as my old bike is a bit of a frankenbike (it's an aluminum Giant that I converted from hybrid to as much of a road bike as it can be and I figure given how much I've been riding in recent years I deserve to treat myself with an actual dedicated road bike). I had thought I was going to go with a Specialized Allez Sprint aluminum frame as the basis for my new build, but then I saw a video from youtuber China Cycling that talked about how you could get a custom titanium frame from Waltly for less than the Specialized frame cost. After looking into Waltly and seeing how other people had had good experiences with them, it seemed to me to be a no brainer, especially as I've always loved the look of titanium and had read many times about how wonderful titanium is to ride.
@@LukeRichardson1981 awesome.. thanks! I really hope you love the new bike… when it arrives!!
Get the No22 Titanium seat post a total game changer. I have a steel Chumba gravel bike and paired it with my No22 Titanium seat post it made my already silky smooth steel bike even better. I think it would do the same on their own frame. Great review.
Thanks Chris.. birthday is coming up and was asking for Ti cages.. might need to switch that to the Ti seat post!!
@@mylifeon2wheels1 You won't regret it, but it does use the Enve bolt/bracket system which I agree with you, isn't the best, but the compliance is amazing.
I am not a professional bike mechanic, but a CNC engineer by trade. Bikes are my huge hobby, so I am constantly building all sorts of bicycles. Also at age of over 40, I still don't have a driving licence, so I'm riding a lot. To address a few things you mentioned. If you want a good, light seatpost with a good clamp, go for USE Alien, USE EVO91 or USE Sumo. All three come in carbon versions, are not overpriced and are very light (Sumo being the heaviest). All three got different clamp designs, so I'm sure you will find one that suits you. As for the vibrations while braking, sounds to me like you really "masked" the problem, not solved it. I know that the frame is a custom build, but did you check if it is properly aligned? I mean seat stays and the brake mounting bit? I had a similar problem on my "Trek District 1st" and the little "cross-section tube" between seat stays, where the brake calliper is mounted was slightly out of wack. As for the stiffness, I believe it's up to the components you chose. Stiff carbon seatpost, carbon wheels, carbon fork, probably saddle with Ti, or carbon rails. All that bits and bobs will make your ride feel stiff/harsh, but probably more responsive. And to address the last bit, which is weight. Titanium frames are usually a bit heavier than carbon ones. On top of that, I see that you are using Dura-Ace Di2 which by its nature is much heavier than let's say Dura-Ace 7800, which is strictly a mechanical groupset. Weight is a penalty you pay for electronic shifting. Add to this deep rim section wheels (again the weight is a penalty for aerodynamics) and the wider tyres at 28mm or 30mm, add it all up and suddenly your build seems to be a bit on the heavier side. I hope it helps to solve at least some of your issues with this lovely ride.
Wow... many thanks for all of those tips... I had not checked the alignment. Is there a way of checking that outside of calling No22? You're right though, the damper between the caliper and frame is a band-aid solution... I will investigate those seat-posts!!
@@mylifeon2wheels1 I'm not sure how to check the alignment without some special measuring equipment, but I did ask the Artificial Intelligence, out of curiosity, called GPT-3 (it's an online language model free to use) and this is what it came up with:
"To check the alignment of the seat stays on your bicycle frame at home, you can use a string or a straight edge. First, make sure your bike is on a level surface. Next, attach one end of the string or straight edge to the dropout on one side of the rear wheel and the other end to the dropout on the other side. The string or straight edge should be tight and parallel to the ground. If the string or straight edge is not parallel to the ground, it means that the seat stays are misaligned. Another way is to look at the rear wheel and check that it is centred between the stays. It's also possible to check by putting the bike upside down and checking that the distance from the ground to the upper side of the stays is the same for both sides".
If it's really bad, you would see it with the bare eye. The method that AI came up with may not be perfect, but it may help. Does the brake calliper feel like it got any torsional movement? This potentially could cause something called "torsional vibration" as well. It's hard to say without actually looking at the bike in person, what causes the vibration.
@@Bear-Jew This is great... thanks. I will try measuring later this evening..
Already watched the Steel bike video, that was awesome as well. I grew up riding steel frames, even before aluminum alloy became common. Of course those steel frames were relatively heavy and certainly nothing like your modern steel bike. I think your color choice was perfect as well, almost looks like Ti.
Ride quality can be a function of the Ti alloy used in the frame build. 6Al/4V tends to be more stiff and less vibration damping than 3Al/2.5V. Not sure about the No 22 but I have a Lynskey R340 that is made with all 3Al/2.5V alloy tubes and the ride is very smooth. Of course no rigid frame is going to swallow up big bumps but the Ti will definitely smooth out the high frequency road buzz that you sometime feel on roads with a more course surface and small cracks and imperfections. The other thing that could be affecting your ride quality is the wheel choice. Deeper dish carbon wheels are way stiffer than lower profile alloy rims. There is a trade off as with all component choices. They are going to be faster (if that really is important to you) but they will not be as plush. Having a set of low profile alloy hoops for more casual, long distance fun rides, is a great option and they are generally pretty cost effective. Then you can use the carbon rims for race paced competitive club rides or races. Loved the video and the bike.
Hey Robert.. thanks for the feedback.. not sure what alloy No22 used on this build, but will ask… thanks for watching (check out my latest videos on my new steel bike… very comfy)
I just stumbled across your video and channel; really enjoyed it! I am starting a No22 build (aurora) and like you, never rode a full Ti bike. I am mainly a full carbon rider (SL7, Dogma F, etc) and also envision your initial impression of Ti. You mentioned the stiff like feeling compared to your full carbon, how about the responsiveness when out of the saddle? Any reason you chose a carbon seatpost vs the Ti offering that No22 has? Thank you for making the video and sharing your thoughts!
Hey Robert, Ahhh, the Aurora.... the bike of my dreams!!! Lucky man!!! The Ti bike is very responsive - it's not as twitchy as a superlight carbon sled - feels way more planted (if that makes sense)... Check out my other vlogs on my new steel bike, the Mariposa - now that's a comfy ride!! I would have gone with the a Ti seatpost, but bought the bike with the Enve carbon one - I have the same seat post on my new bike - just think the Ti post adds a bit more comfort - but comfort may not be what you're looking for?
@@mylifeon2wheels1 Thank you! I forgot to mention in my original post that I was laughing when you were subscribing the over engineering of the ENVE seat post. That was my exact experience and I felt it required a PhD to figure out!
@@robertdevito8928 Right??? Like why over complicate it!!! Still very frustrating and I have a mild panic attack if I feel I need to make any adjustments to the saddle position!! 🙂
I have three bike but if I bought a 4th it will be a Ti. Now how and who do trust to take the measurements? I have a small and a medium frame bikes and I honestly still dont know what is my size.
I have a TI gravel bike (Lynskey GR250) and a Trek Emonda SL5 carbon road bike. The Emonda seems to be absorbing road vibrations pretty well; running 28 mm tires, the widest that my rim brakes can handle.
Yeah.. just put 28mm tires on the Ti bike so hoping for a plusher ride in the spring…
@@mylifeon2wheels1 I once had 32 mm road tires on my gravel bike (with discs); that was a plush ride on pavement. Rim brakes typically cannot handle anything wider than 28mm.
@@hansschotterradler3772 yeah.. I think I am limited to 30’s…
@@mylifeon2wheels1 I want to try out 30s once I need new tires. It'll be tight.
Nice breakdown video for the likes and dislikes. I’m a full steel kind of guy but always have been curious of titanium. I wonder if there’s titanium builds with titanium forks instead of carbon?
New steel bike just ordered!! Should take possession in about 8 weeks.. full custom build.. that’s a good question.. seems to be mostly carbon from what I can tell… the steel bike will also have a carbon fork.. for weight savings?
Lovely bike. I have a titanium Enigma; certainly not boutique at the moment but I'm working on it. What saddle bag are you using there, it looks cool for a saddle bag!
Hey.. it’s a SciCon under saddle mount bag…
It’s the angle of attack on the brake pads
Nice review video, I also have a Ti Bike, Serotta, made in the US, with a carbon seat stay system, and a unique suspension between the seat stays and the chain stays, using a pivot system. I've had many carbon frames over the years, but the Serotta rides best of all of my carbon frames. Is your frame made in the West, or is it a Chinese built frame? Your bike looks nice and it has a nice groupo from what I can see. By any chance are you also an audiophile? I see a lot of CDs in the background. Many bike fans also are into audio and music as another hobby. Stay safe and enjoy your new Ti bike.
Hi, I have a bit of the same problem with my steel bike, the noise and vibration in the rear break. What kind of damping did you guys use? Thanks in advance.
We put a small rubber seal between the caliper and the frame and then made sure we didn’t tighten the caliper too tight.. that seemed to work…
@@mylifeon2wheels1 , thanks, will try the same.
Great video and overview of the bike! What’s the widest tire you can get on this guy?
Thanks Gene… well the website says 30mm so I will give that a shot…
What type of dampening was added to the rear brake bridge? Having similar issue with my bike! Thanks
It was a small rubber ring/gasket.. and then remember to not tighten the caliper too much against the frame mount..
that junk box makes me happy i waited to upgrade. Sad/mad that shimano has no rim brake wirelss! My lynskey has toe lap and its due to being a touring frame geo.
get some berd RD35 and some 30mm tires and welcome to cloud country. No22 is my dream but i settled for a lynskey at the moment...
Thanks for the tips!! The No22 bikes are pretty sweet…
I have had a few titanium bikes. I currently have a Seven with 44mm head tube as most have today. 44mm head tubes do not belong on any bicycle if you actually care about ride quality. 44mm head tubes are configured as such to sell you carbon forks manufactured through outsourced labor.
what specifically is wrong with 44mm? A head tube is designed to not flex, to be stable and aligned.
@@catherineseiferth259 44 mm head tubes only exist to accommodate the trend towards carbon (made in china) forks. These larger head tubes were not a solution to the non-existing problem of "flexy head tubes". Because head tubes are larger so that they can make large carbon forks with larger blades and larger steer tubes, the result is an ultra stiff fork and head tube area.
When they spec a 44mm head tube, it says they don't care about ride quality. They care more about following the trend of cheap outsourced manufacturing.
My next bike will be fully custom, steel and with a 1" head tube, because that's the optimal diameter based on steel's weight, strength while maintaining comfort. That or a Ritchey, who still maintains straight head tubes and forks.
Some of the right flex instills more confidence as the bike will absorb more vibrations. Too stiff and the bike feels nervous over rougher terrain.
Catherine Seiferth - Exactly!
Nothing is inherently wrong with a 44mm headtube and fork as that clown claims. A bicycle’s headtube has literally next to nothing to do with making a bike ride more or less comfortable and any framebuilder will tell you this. 44mm headtubes were developed to improve the handling of DH and XC MTB racing bikes. It literally had nothing to do with the goal of outsourcing stuff. It’s amazing how idiots will just post complete nonsense on the internet. Why would 44mm headtubes and their forks have to be invented if outsourcing was the purpose behind them? Loads of 1 inch and 1 1/8th inch headtubes and their forks were already outsourced long before any 44mm headtube was ever fabricated on a single bike frameset. That guy sounds like nothing more than some angry and clueless nationalist hack on a rant. 😀
Complete urban legend BS! The vertical flex in a frameset of any material including steel is so little that the claims of comfort or a magical carpet ride are beyond ridiculous. The vast majority of vertical compliance leading to comfort in a complete bike system comes far more from your wheels if they are designed to have more flex in them (lower profile and higher spike count), your tires and the PSI you run them at, your seatpost and its built in flex capabilities, your bars and their built in flex, the bar tape you use and your saddle. Unless your frameset has actual active suspension built into it like a typical non-hard tail MTB your double triangle bike frame regardless of the material it is made of provides virtually zero serious amounts of vertical compliance to produce meaningful increased rider comfort. A simple low profile rimmed wheelset with a higher spike count run with tires at a lower psi will flex and produce exponentially more movement in the vertical plane compared to any rigid steel bicycle frame ever built. That’s reality despite all the urban legend boomer BS claims of “steel is real” and “ohhhh my steel ride is soooo springy and comfy” BS!
As for a 44mm headtube resulting in an uncomfortable ride more complete nonsensical BS on your part. There has literally never been a single headtube built for a bicycle that magically provided loads of additional comfort for a rider compared to other headtubes. The headtube’s purpose has nothing to do with providing vertical compliance or comfort and any even semi informed frame builder will tell you this.
And FYI, there are loads of 1 inch and 1 1/8th inch forks whose production was outsourced and manufactured overseas long before any 44mm headtube was ever built into a bicycle frameset so your claim that 44mm headtubes and their forks were designed simply to enable outsourcing of them is also nonsensical BS.
But I’ll admit reading your silly drivel did provide for some laughs and was good comedy. 😀
And FYI dummy, 44mm headtubes were never made to solve a “flexy headtube problem” clown. They were made to allow use of a larger diameter steerer in the fork for DH and XC MTB racers to reduce flex in the fork to improve handling under high speed and loads. 😀
Enve's seat post adjustment clamp is just plain dumb. There is NO REASON why it should be that complicated. Despite its beauty (without the two-bolt clamp) never will I have that post again.
Agreed!!!
This was really useful, but hard to watch because your music volume is about 10x louder than it needs to be (intro, transitions). Appreciate all the thought put into the video, though.
I think the music is perfect. Unlike some other annoying crap that some people have in the background.
If you had to pick ONE material to ride, what would it be? And why?
Hey... I would say steel.. having ridden carbon and Ti and steel - I would say from a pure comfort standpoint steel wins hands down... the way it just absorbs the bumps and cracks is incredible... weight is the penalty for this comfort...
@@mylifeon2wheels1 I agree with that. I've never ridden really good steel frames (I have an early '80s Raleigh), but it is steel the most comfortable. See what I did there? Ha ha Besides weight, the flex in the chain stays is what I don't like so much. Appreciate the reply.
@@justanotherjackleg7073 hahaha… that’s good.. stay tuned for the next video as I have some news on a steel frame… thanks for watching!!
Attention? People wave at fixies with colored rims. This? Frame isn't even painted!
So, it depends. Bike nerds will notice your Ti bike but for most of people flashy painted entry level hybrid with matching handlebars and pedals will look more unusual and adorable.
I ride a custom titanium gravel bike built by Hugh black of true North Cycle out of Fergus Ontario. It's the smoothest bike I've ever owned, it does everything that I wanted to do and then some. I think the ride quality comes down to the tube selection in my opinion.
Thanks, Randy… hoping the wider tires/lower pressure helps a bit..
Sweet bike. And not sure if you been to the factory
Thanks.. no, I have not but I would love a tour at some point.. thanks for watching!!
@@mylifeon2wheels1 its in Johnson NY not sure if you can but be neat
@@bonn1771 yeah, it is really not that far away… just not sure if they allow drop ins… 😂
@@mylifeon2wheels1 I am tempted to ask when I buy those fenders....
Jeez! Could you go a tad lightly on those musical transitions ? Thanks !
everyone making youtube thinks they need "b roll" and they just get longer and less interesting.
15 grand for a bicycle, just smoke the money instead
A bike worth 10k…that’s a car
Cheap titanium bikes, let me know if I missed some I'm looking to get a sub 3000$ titanium bike:
Ribble cgr ti
Planet x tempest
Titus road runner
Motobecane le champion ti
Dolan titanium adx
Spa cycle elan
Sonder colibri ti
Triban 900 ti
Chumba tengula ti
Waltley custom
Just under 8lbs????
Urgh...
@@mylifeon2wheels1 oh, I was about sell all my bikes and get a titanium one!
@@bullyborg I guess... a 3.6Kgs bike would be a pretty sweet deal!! 🙂
I’m thinking of getting a used version of this bike! Thanks for the great video. Question. How much do you weight? I’m trying to see if my higher weight will make the for a more compliant ride. Thanks again !
that wall of CD's tells me a lot but anyhow - just go out and ride your bike
Too much pomp & narcissism here…” couldn’t build bike like this oday for under $15k…. Tell me what else you’re in the market for, love to sell you something. ✌️
Bikes of today are too expensive; you're literally riding a car. Did you do a test ride before you bought it? You should have gone with Seven 7, or Dean titanium.
Kevlar is better