Nice work mate, just check the fuel and especially the brake lines for internal rust. They can look perfect on the outside but moisture in brake fluid rusts them from the inside out. Easy to check, put a piece of plastic whipper snipper cord inside the pipe and see if it comes out rusty. Little brake fluid in at the same time will help show the rust or fuel in the fuel line. Ask me next time we catch up how I know about this 😬
Mate. A dark gun metal grey metallic would be a great colour. A dual 21/2 inch is plenty. I know 3 inch is great but save a heap of cash, dual 21/2 inch sound crisp. Small mufflers and high flow cats, can't go wrong. Check it out.. Dark metalic gun metal grey man. A few black highlights, maybe tail light surrounds??
Barnesy, Those flare nuts on the brake lines are butchered because people have been using ordinary open ended spanners on them. Flare nut spanners are a lot stronger and as a result don’t flex and slip. I have been there. Use a bit of anti seize on the threads and the pipe as well. Sage green is indeed a nice colour, so was the bronze colour. Jeff
Give it a go Barnesy, paint it yourself in gunmetal grey is my choice too, i know you can do this, it's just gotta be nice to your eye and what others said, prep work is the best work. Good Luck my man.
Thanks mate, yeah I agree, I'm not going to stuff it that badly that it can't be sanded back and repainted worse case. Should be right, just need a good gun and a good night's sleep before!
Greet work coming together nicely, and doing your research I see, you're much more knowledgeable with your decisions 👍 Barnesy Mate if you really want to paint your car yourself do it in a single stage solid colour, anything else pay someone who does it for a living to lay the paint on. My tip is, don't think about when it might be ready for paint, don't make plans for when you might paint it, just keep blocking and when in doubt block some more, and then when you think its ready for paint block it again😊😂. Then track down the Gunman (has a you tube channel, think he lives in Vic) pay him lots of $$$ for the day to come out and lay some metallic gun metal grey on your Ute👌👌
Thanks Mark, now why would I go and pay someone to have all the fun after all.this hard work!😂 Nah I'm seeing it through and painting it, that's all part of the challenge, i just have to make sure I have everything in place to get it right. Research and preparation usually get me there, if I stuff it then I will sand her back and go again! Thanks mate
@@BarnesysBuilds Cool, I totally understand, its a great feeling. it's like hitting a hole in1 on a golf course, f##king awesome, I have no doubts you will get the results you want👍If you're painting BC/CC do a sizable practice run testing all your theory works right down to your air extraction as that clear coat can get very cloudy quickly when spraying on thick. Look forward to it.
@@markstone5593 I have a spare bonnet im going to do a practice on which should give me an indication of how i can manage the metallic striping issues and also test the extraction. I may buy another one of the those fans and get a twin adaptor so i can double the power and just sit the other unit on top of the box. cheers
Just looking at mine, those rubber joins and the brass joiner are factory. I have never taken any notice of them and have decided to replace at least the one on the fuel suction line, 39 years service is good enough. Another nice WB colour is Rhone Green, they looked good in that. Your lines look as good as new, they should be smicko. Jeff
My mates is painted in Rohan Green, i think thast was the one i was referring to, beautifuil colour. Yes they are factory joins, i confirmed it froma couple of people which is good to know!
Hey Barnsy great job on the build so far, i know this is an old episode but what is that profram you were using looking at the rendering of different colours?
Good to see you're kicking goals mate. I haven't picked a colour yet but I also like gunmetal grey as well as aquamarine. But I'm so far off painting it's not funny. Are you going to try and get the gaps consistent and parallel around the cowl panel?
Thanks Ray, yes both those options are on the list, however green is a mates wb colour so can't go there. I have already test fit the cowl so I know it's pretty good already, I'm not going to get too fancy with the small gaps, they will be roughly around stock I reckon, I'm happy with that.
Have a walk around a few car yards, some of the new Japanese manufacturers have some nice colours. ( I know I'll cop some shit for saying that haha ) can't hurt, just to give you some idea. If you see something that you like just grab the paint code off it. I like my Axalta paint like Cromax or Standox.The dark metallic gun metal grey for sure man, put 3 coats of clear on it and wet block it flat start at 1500 then 2000, 3000 and 3500 on a good da, slowly to get the scratches out and finish on 4 or 5000, (now that's using a high solids clear). Get all the orange peel out then buff it and buff it and you will smile. Use 3m abrasives too, it sounds expensive to buy but you only use half of what you would of using another brand coz they last. Give the gunman a message he's back in Melbourne and his folks live in Bendigo. Tell him I said g'day. Haha. He'll have a colour for ya man. Cheers 👍
Thanks mate, yeah I reckon I will have to go Valspar or one of the ones you mentioned to get that specific colour, I know Valspar have a huge colour range that would definitely have a similar colour. I dropped gunman a message but no response! I assume he gets a 1000 messages but worth a try. We will see!
Go the Blue, had a mate with a WB in that blue snd it was mint. Metallics aren’t that easy to paint either mate. Check out PPG Red Orange is my choice.
Just keep your spray gun passes even, 70% overlap, your biggest problem is mottling especially with silver basecoat and maybe gunmetal. 2 coats followed with a tech or drop coat, you drop your pressure and increase your distance, get the metallics standing up. What sort of guns are you using?
The gun I was using was absolutely shite, it was split spraying so it was laying down heavier at the base and top and finer in the middle. It's lucky its high build but I am buying a new higher end gun for the basecoat. Devibliss GTI pro or any other that's good for basecoat. Do you need a separate gun for clearcoat?
@@BarnesysBuilds If your only going to be using it for this job then no you can get away with one. Jst give it a good clean before you use it for clear. A devillbis gti pro lite with a 1.3 fluid tip and a te20 air cap, tho you can get them these days with 2 air caps. A te10 and a te20. The te10 for basecoat and the te20 for clear. I've been using my 2 pro lites for years and they are great guns mate, get yourself a good cheater gauge and run it at about 1.6 bar for basecoat with the te10 cap and 1.8 to 2 bar with the te20 for clear. Use it with full fan and 3 to 4 turns out on the fluid which is almost full fluid and go for it. Have you looked at any gunman videos? For a novice you could get some great tips on his channel. Just slow down before you start and don't be in a hurry.
@@BarnesysBuilds make sure that primer is blocked smooth, no orange peel at all or the metallics will look shit on an orange peeled primer. If you rub through the primer then just lay down some more.
@@BarnesysBuilds I put in a different tank, maybe you could raise the standard one? Otherwise you’ll notice the normal pipes both run up the passenger side opposite the fuel tank.
They have lasted 30 years already without rust though? They were a bit grimey but you saw they weren't rusty at all even after being dirty for all those years.
@@BarnesysBuilds If you look at new bundy tube it has a dark greenish coating on it and I think you have removed it all, just suggesting you look into it Cheers
I actually hacked it out of Forza 7 game files I located online as they had a hq sandman barn find model in the game. I then went to work converting it all to work in my software platform so I can change all the panel colours at once. It was a very detailed model. So you can t download it unless you go through the same process. What software are you using?
@@BarnesysBuilds I was looking to use blender and I had a feeling that was the case done abit of work I see I just want to see what it'll be like with black sills and bottoms before I roll with it I'll definitely look into it
Even tho the brake lines look in good nik they still probably close to 30years old, its Way easier to replace brake and fuel lines why the body and engine is off
I may look at the fuel line replacement because of potential dirt but honestly they were in excellent condition so for the sake of 10% more quality I deemed it not worth it.
@@gixgix457 I'm not sure, I thought it was standard as it needs to fit through the chassis hole but I will check. Either way it's a solid join. Never had issues.
No they are all standard that’s how they are factory, they came up great mate and saved ya a few bucks to go towards ya engine, good job, I haven’t been painting long and have painted a few pearls now and haven’t had a problem with them, now candy might be a bit different, anyway looking good buddy.
@@carsnthingsrestos31 ok that's great! I thought it was time to put some elbow grease in and restore instead of replace! You reckon I could handle laying down a metallic?
Man I wrote my message before watching the video. Your taste in the gunmetal is spot on.👍💯
Nice work mate, just check the fuel and especially the brake lines for internal rust. They can look perfect on the outside but moisture in brake fluid rusts them from the inside out. Easy to check, put a piece of plastic whipper snipper cord inside the pipe and see if it comes out rusty. Little brake fluid in at the same time will help show the rust or fuel in the fuel line. Ask me next time we catch up how I know about this 😬
Thanks mate! I like the whipper snipper cord trick! Nice tip, thanks
Mate. A dark gun metal grey metallic would be a great colour. A dual 21/2 inch is plenty. I know 3 inch is great but save a heap of cash, dual 21/2 inch sound crisp. Small mufflers and high flow cats, can't go wrong. Check it out.. Dark metalic gun metal grey man. A few black highlights, maybe tail light surrounds??
Hey mate, yeah I reckon black tail light surrounds, maybe dark bumpers as well. Will see!
I was thinking "Sage green is nice". I am a huge fan of gun metal grey but wasn't keen on it until you said "copper". Love it!! Yes yes yes!!
Thanks I agree!
Barnesy, Those flare nuts on the brake lines are butchered because people have been using ordinary open ended spanners on them. Flare nut spanners are a lot stronger and as a result don’t flex and slip. I have been there. Use a bit of anti seize on the threads and the pipe as well. Sage green is indeed a nice colour, so was the bronze colour. Jeff
I have bought all new nutes so i will replace them all, thanks!
Give it a go Barnesy, paint it yourself in gunmetal grey is my choice too, i know you can do this, it's just gotta be nice to your eye and what others said, prep work is the best work. Good Luck my man.
Thanks mate, yeah I agree, I'm not going to stuff it that badly that it can't be sanded back and repainted worse case. Should be right, just need a good gun and a good night's sleep before!
Sik mate. Luv your color choice. Can't wait to see it. I'm painting my new torana dodge billet silver was thinking about putting some green in
Thanks mate, I've seen that colour, Chrysler platinum silver is also one on the cards. Beautiful colour
Hard choice both are really nice colours but the one that stands out is sage green. Seen it in person and i love it.
Yes it is a beautiful colour in person, only problem is my mates got the same colour and so it sort of rules it out unfortunately.
Greet work coming together nicely, and doing your research I see, you're much more knowledgeable with your decisions 👍
Barnesy Mate if you really want to paint your car yourself do it in a single stage solid colour, anything else pay someone who does it for a living to lay the paint on.
My tip is, don't think about when it might be ready for paint, don't make plans for when you might paint it, just keep blocking and when in doubt block some more, and then when you think its ready for paint block it again😊😂. Then track down the Gunman (has a you tube channel, think he lives in Vic) pay him lots of $$$ for the day to come out and lay some metallic gun metal grey on your Ute👌👌
Thanks Mark, now why would I go and pay someone to have all the fun after all.this hard work!😂 Nah I'm seeing it through and painting it, that's all part of the challenge, i just have to make sure I have everything in place to get it right. Research and preparation usually get me there, if I stuff it then I will sand her back and go again! Thanks mate
@@BarnesysBuilds Cool, I totally understand, its a great feeling. it's like hitting a hole in1 on a golf course, f##king awesome, I have no doubts you will get the results you want👍If you're painting BC/CC do a sizable practice run testing all your theory works right down to your air extraction as that clear coat can get very cloudy quickly when spraying on thick. Look forward to it.
@@markstone5593 I have a spare bonnet im going to do a practice on which should give me an indication of how i can manage the metallic striping issues and also test the extraction. I may buy another one of the those fans and get a twin adaptor so i can double the power and just sit the other unit on top of the box. cheers
@@BarnesysBuilds Perfect 👍
Just looking at mine, those rubber joins and the brass joiner are factory. I have never taken any notice of them and have decided to replace at least the one on the fuel suction line, 39 years service is good enough. Another nice WB colour is Rhone Green, they looked good in that. Your lines look as good as new, they should be smicko. Jeff
My mates is painted in Rohan Green, i think thast was the one i was referring to, beautifuil colour. Yes they are factory joins, i confirmed it froma couple of people which is good to know!
@@BarnesysBuilds Good. Sage Green was an earlier Holden colour, darker than Rhone Green.
Good job 👍🏽 once again buddy keep it coming 💪🏼👌🏼🇦🇺🍻👍🏽🔨
Thanks Greg.👍
Hey Barnsy great job on the build so far, i know this is an old episode but what is that profram you were using looking at the rendering of different colours?
Thanks mate, no it was made inside Cinema 4D and Octane render, other professional 3D software platforms.
Hey mate. If you a looking for a deeper blue, check out the Dodge Viper GTS blue. Very unique and looks great with the pearl
Cheers, will have a look
yes go with the custom DNA paint !!!!
Good to see you're kicking goals mate. I haven't picked a colour yet but I also like gunmetal grey as well as aquamarine. But I'm so far off painting it's not funny. Are you going to try and get the gaps consistent and parallel around the cowl panel?
Thanks Ray, yes both those options are on the list, however green is a mates wb colour so can't go there. I have already test fit the cowl so I know it's pretty good already, I'm not going to get too fancy with the small gaps, they will be roughly around stock I reckon, I'm happy with that.
Have a walk around a few car yards, some of the new Japanese manufacturers have some nice colours. ( I know I'll cop some shit for saying that haha ) can't hurt, just to give you some idea. If you see something that you like just grab the paint code off it. I like my Axalta paint like Cromax or Standox.The dark metallic gun metal grey for sure man, put 3 coats of clear on it and wet block it flat start at 1500 then 2000, 3000 and 3500 on a good da, slowly to get the scratches out and finish on 4 or 5000, (now that's using a high solids clear). Get all the orange peel out then buff it and buff it and you will smile. Use 3m abrasives too, it sounds expensive to buy but you only use half of what you would of using another brand coz they last. Give the gunman a message he's back in Melbourne and his folks live in Bendigo. Tell him I said g'day. Haha. He'll have a colour for ya man. Cheers 👍
Thanks mate, yeah I reckon I will have to go Valspar or one of the ones you mentioned to get that specific colour, I know Valspar have a huge colour range that would definitely have a similar colour. I dropped gunman a message but no response! I assume he gets a 1000 messages but worth a try. We will see!
Go the Blue, had a mate with a WB in that blue snd it was mint.
Metallics aren’t that easy to paint either mate.
Check out PPG Red Orange is my choice.
Yeah I love the ice blue, just not sure I love it that much. Yeah I know metallics can be tricky so I have been doing my homework on that.
Just keep your spray gun passes even, 70% overlap, your biggest problem is mottling especially with silver basecoat and maybe gunmetal. 2 coats followed with a tech or drop coat, you drop your pressure and increase your distance, get the metallics standing up. What sort of guns are you using?
The gun I was using was absolutely shite, it was split spraying so it was laying down heavier at the base and top and finer in the middle. It's lucky its high build but I am buying a new higher end gun for the basecoat. Devibliss GTI pro or any other that's good for basecoat. Do you need a separate gun for clearcoat?
@@BarnesysBuilds If your only going to be using it for this job then no you can get away with one. Jst give it a good clean before you use it for clear. A devillbis gti pro lite with a 1.3 fluid tip and a te20 air cap, tho you can get them these days with 2 air caps. A te10 and a te20. The te10 for basecoat and the te20 for clear. I've been using my 2 pro lites for years and they are great guns mate, get yourself a good cheater gauge and run it at about 1.6 bar for basecoat with the te10 cap and 1.8 to 2 bar with the te20 for clear. Use it with full fan and 3 to 4 turns out on the fluid which is almost full fluid and go for it. Have you looked at any gunman videos? For a novice you could get some great tips on his channel. Just slow down before you start and don't be in a hurry.
@@BarnesysBuilds make sure that primer is blocked smooth, no orange peel at all or the metallics will look shit on an orange peeled primer. If you rub through the primer then just lay down some more.
@@beauchamp1763 Yeah ok will do, whats the best grit to start and end on again before base caot?
@@BarnesysBuilds Mate as smooth as you can get it I would start on 320 and end on 800. How many coats of primer do you have to block into?
I bought the kuluin exhaust setup, easy fit as long as you don’t fit the original fuel tank which I’m pretty sure you were going to?
Really, dam, is there any way around that?
@@BarnesysBuilds I put in a different tank, maybe you could raise the standard one? Otherwise you’ll notice the normal pipes both run up the passenger side opposite the fuel tank.
The silver colour in the wb 84 kingswood is Mercury not aztec silver . Aztec is a statesman colour 👍
Mercury paint code:2j011 or 9678
Ok great, thanks for the info on that, I found it hard to find accurate colour charts for the standard models.
Hi just wondering what people use for sanding in the gutters an tight spots I need to use a tool as my hands cramp badly
Wire wheel will do that pretty easily. cheers
Hi Barnesy's You need to paint your brake & fuel lines other wise they will be covered in surface rust in on time.
Cheers Len
They have lasted 30 years already without rust though? They were a bit grimey but you saw they weren't rusty at all even after being dirty for all those years.
@@BarnesysBuilds If you look at new bundy tube it has a dark greenish coating on it and I think you have removed it all, just suggesting you look into it Cheers
What's the model called mate wouldn't mind playing around with it for future reference will come in handy
I actually hacked it out of Forza 7 game files I located online as they had a hq sandman barn find model in the game. I then went to work converting it all to work in my software platform so I can change all the panel colours at once. It was a very detailed model. So you can t download it unless you go through the same process. What software are you using?
@@BarnesysBuilds I was looking to use blender and I had a feeling that was the case done abit of work I see I just want to see what it'll be like with black sills and bottoms before I roll with it I'll definitely look into it
What program are you using
Cinema 4D, render engine is Octane with the HQ model from Forza 7
Even tho the brake lines look in good nik they still probably close to 30years old, its Way easier to replace brake and fuel lines why the body and engine is off
I may look at the fuel line replacement because of potential dirt but honestly they were in excellent condition so for the sake of 10% more quality I deemed it not worth it.
Get new ones. Someone has patched it I think. I saw a joiner which is never ideal. Only temporary.
Yeah I was wondering about that rubber connection, must if cut it to fit it through the chassis.
@@BarnesysBuilds think that's for the fuel. I thought the brass connector.
@@gixgix457 I'm not sure, I thought it was standard as it needs to fit through the chassis hole but I will check. Either way it's a solid join. Never had issues.
No they are all standard that’s how they are factory, they came up great mate and saved ya a few bucks to go towards ya engine, good job, I haven’t been painting long and have painted a few pearls now and haven’t had a problem with them, now candy might be a bit different, anyway looking good buddy.
@@carsnthingsrestos31 ok that's great! I thought it was time to put some elbow grease in and restore instead of replace! You reckon I could handle laying down a metallic?
What was the program used to render the colours on the utes?
I used Keyshot 7.0 for the real time rendering.