As always, your HVAC videos are the standard others try to achieve: instructive, humorous at times, extremely relaxing, and interesting. “It’s like a box of chocolates, you never know what your going to get.”
I really enjoy your videos, Ted. I enjoy the longer videos most. Thank you for taking the time to video your work. I hope you and your family had a wonderful Christmas. Have a safe and happy New Year!
Ah! There you go - this one is installed the right way round, as opposed to the wrong way round, just as you said in the last video I watched. Man speak the truth!!!
Only reason I still watch or follow residential style equipment channels like Ted's is to not forget about them....i don't come across split systems very much anymore and over time...you can forget about them and how to navigate through them....even though i was residential for quite a few years. I dont want to loose the skills and knowledge i once gained because i don't hardly work on splits anymore. Dont use it....loose it.
I aspire to one day have replacement boards in my truck! Instead of going to the supply house like a chump. Then maybe I will have time to relax & jam on the customers guitar 😂 Love your vids you have taught me so much
Hello. I've watched for a while. Never commented. This video got my attention after last year when my heater quit working. I was told they were 99% sure it was my motherboard that failed. $400 later. With there service call and ordering the board.. Labor. It still didn't work. I was told they would adjust something on the new board. It turned out to be a small round metal piece. High limit? They put new one on. Worked great ever since. I told them I don't want that new board. Since the high limit fixed the problem. Was told they still don't think my old motherboard worked. I will never call that company again. I was had!
17:43- I saw you removing the board with a pair of wire strippers and was going to suggest the bic pen idea (i work on computers, so I made one years ago) but then you mentioned it. But, you have to cut off the business end of the pen and then pop out the button on the top. The hole that's left after removing the button is the precise diameter necessary to squeeze the legs of the standoff together while pulling on the board. Well done.
Its likely that the solder points on the back of the board had small cracks, providing intermittent issues like you induced, usually it is the corner pins that crack. In a pinch, when parts are not available and heat is critical, you can place nonconductive material behind the board to slightly bend the material and force connection, it usually works until you can return.
At 19:10 the newest version has a plastic piece that just sits in the metal plate to support the area of the board where you plug in the wire harness. You could have swapped the one on the older one to the new one too.
Good tip about holding the board when pushing the molex plugs back on. VERY IMPORTANT!!! New guys... Listen to Ted. He's giving you all the good stuff you need to know. 😎👍
Watching you work and listening to your soft voice is almost hypnotic; I think it has a new name today of ASMR or something like that meaning relaxing. Always glad to see a new post from the Palmetto.
Times in a pinch, like weekend and not having board in van I have used a little screwdriver in the slot of nine or twelve point pin and opened it up so when harness plugs in its a tighter and snug fit. This happens alot on tranes. Sometimes spreading and opening male part of plug works. Good job.
I had the exact same issue last week with a trane same board. I tried to make a better connection with the molex with no evail. I replaced the board with a new revision no issues since.
So as someone who is looking to get into the hvac field. I have see you change a few boards now, and I have a question. Would it not be easier to unplug one wire at a time and place it on the new board?
Great video. I have a question and it may be a dumb one. But how well does that high temp rtv silicone hold condensation? And you are right about it being correct. It says in the trane installation manual to use that for that connection. Even though when I asked trane they had no idea what I was talking about lol
Thanks for the educational videos bud, I work on soda fountain equipment and I've found that McDonald's coffee straws are perfect for removing circuit boards from stand offs, set your straws, and the board comes right off.
Use high temperature RTV silicone sealant to attach the air intake pipe into the connector on the burner box so the air intake pipe can be removed if service is required. NOTE: Do not use cement.
Good video Ted. I'm rather sure the exhaust pipe never was fixed well enough and simply worked its way out over time or since the last service if the tech had been there and it was still connected. I guess there's a "fuse bandit" running around your neighborhood too. Its good to have a box of those on hand so there's no running out of them. I'm sure that board simply wore out due to heat and power cycles since many of them fail due to poor build quality, they self destruct due to under engineered robust printed circuits and solder joints. Would have been a good idea to use some clear packaging tape and affix that diagnosis label back on the door. Maybe you did off camera or put it someplace else that will be useful. Great job having that part on the truck too ! The surly helps the customers out, only one trip.
the biggest issue with copper for gas lines, is from idiots running it haphazardly and letting it touch other dissimilar metals, concrete and other things it can react with, also at the transition fittings. there's more galvanic corrosion at any points it touches something else, so it needs carefully routed and maintained. way back when gas was much wetter/contaminated, it did cause more corrosion issues, not really an issue anymore unless you live on hob-knob-holler and get it supplied directly from wells unfiltered.
In the UK copper is used for natural gas in I would say 99% of domestic properties. Rarely come a cross steel apart from in commercial /industrial units where it is common.
This is what happens when the manufacturer saves 25 cents on the PCB. It's actually kind of unbelievable how cheap these PCBs are. The beige material is a cheap paper phenolic substrate (instead of fiberglass FR4, like on real grown-up boards), and the board is single-sided with no plated through-holes, which means the solder joints are extremely weak (there is nothing keeping the component pin from popping through). After a few thousand heat/cool cycles the solder joints will inevitably crack and the board will stop working. The new board is a double-sided board, which is exponentially more reliable. The through-holes are actually plated on the inside, which means you have a solid plug of solder holding the pins, not just a thin fillet on one side. I would stay away from any equipment that still uses single-sided boards. Even Goodman doesn't do it anymore. It's a sign of penny pinching to the max.
Issue is that the PCB was mounted on a wobbly metal bracket (you can see it shake when he's troubleshooting). On top of that it had a heavy set of wires pulling on the plug. PCB could be better, but me mechanical tension and stresses will result in any PCB failures. Hanging wires and poor mount locations definitely played a role in this failure.
gor312 The mfrs probably want these failures because it results in service calls and people make money, and more often than not these unreputable HVAC people will just tell the customer you need a new system...
Really enjoy all your advice and years of experience. When you get a chance what do you think of the Halo Rene ultraviolet peroxide inducing air purifier to that I would like to have installed. Thank you for all your videos. Please try to answer this question.
I recently had a pain in the ass furnace at a nursing home. Found the inducer getting power but not running...no big deal. Replace the inducer.....inducer starts....now getting the 3 flash for pressure switch...verified pressure switch was closed...tried jumping it out...still 3 flashes.....bad board....replace the board.....inducer starts, pressure switch now being recognized as closed.....heat fires up.......blower never turns on....capacitor was good....windings were bad.....3rd trip to supply house for a blower motor. Install blower.....inducer starts, pressure switch is being recognized as closed, heat fires up.....blower starts.....i can finally go home. ( commercial/ industrial, we dont carry truck stock like residential companies do. We carry caps, belts, contactors and a few relays, t-stat or two and maybe a couple other smaller items ). The parts house was 1 hour round-trip. Long ass day...pain in the ass York furnace.
Copper gas line is legal up here in New Jersey. Worked for the gas company.. for many years.. it was used in. The late 80s... But you are correct..... Just a version of the new gas tigh like they use now.. it was all about saving time.. as it is now.. I remember hand therding 2 inch.. 11 threads ouch..,.
Why would you not trace the pressure switch wire to the board and look at the trace side with a loupe and at least check continuity before replacing an expensive board. Chances are (for sure) you have a cold solder on the board
Not sure if you pulled the fuse for viewers entertainment purposes to be a Cliff Hanger, but it sure got my attention when nothing fired up when you jumped it out. Greatest Hvac Tech ever ! Ted Cook
Ted can i ask your opinion on Trane quality declining? My last home i bought a trane 18+ years ago and in all that time only a compressor capacitor needed replaced. Hard to stop a Trane! Advance two years and my new to me home needs a new unit. Sorry not in your operating range. It’s Lennox 5 ton heat pump at 16 years young which means it was/is reliable as well (inside coil rusting away is reason for replacement). My first thought on replacement was Trane, but i’m reading many negative reviews on Trane’s quality … well falling off the tracks. Now i know you’re a bit impartial, but do you have any thoughts on the quality aspect of Trane as of late?
34:00 Not legal in Texas! 😁👍 Its called out copper = bad and won't pass inspection. I notice a lot of states say ok, and then a lot say nope on the whole controversy. One arm chair constructive criticism would have been to cut the zip tie so the wires aren't pulled so tight and put a new one on. Other than that great video and troubleshooting sir. 🍺
it's wise to strap the pipe and screw to the case on horizontal furnace flues. that does appear to have "the roofers were here" written all over it, as well as the problem of glue instead of silicone. wrap steel strap around the flue, bolt it tight and over screwed to side of cabinet. that's sure not the first one I've seen ripped out. even some vertical unit's were ripped out because the flue was their dog chain tie point, ""gee, why do we have headaches feel drowsy and have CO alarm going off"" 🙄
Ahh the old cracked solder on the back of the board problem. I've replaced many boards because of this. Also have broke out the soldering iron and repaired a few. Also what Japanese restaurant do you prefer in the upstate? I always preferred Mimi's in Simpsonville but they have shutdown now.
The solder points on the backs of those boards crack over time, White Rogers boards are famous for it. You wiggle the wires at the board and get trips in operation with all the plug terminals seated properly in the plug, Go get a board!
Replace the board. It could be bad solder, intermittent relay, cracked trace, etc. It’s not worth a callback and the customer will not be happy whenever the board fails again (and it will fail).
I bought a house 1.5 years ago. An inspector told me I need a new air-conditioning and heater unit. After watching your videos. I said hell no. I have replaced one door switch for the heater and had freon added for the a/c. All for less than $360. Thank you for your videos.
Center standoff on that board limits midspan board deflection and increases fatigue life of the board....big molex board mounted plug, a challenge to preheat uniformly, sometimes resulting in semi-cold solder joints during wave soldering.
I think that board wasn't stable enough and kept shaking and caused connection & disconnection and eventually burned something up. A board must be tight to the panel.
Here's a diy tip for the day , when handling system boards always use alcohol or wear gloves because the contamination is real and WILL EAT THE BOARD SURFACE
@@TedCookHVAC I totally understand then. I am just starting out myself. I have a guitar now, but I still need to get the tuning done and what not because it's used and I got it for free basically. You played well and made me want to play.
Not that you didn't fix the furnace, but my experience suggests a different root cause of the failure. The weak spot is those round pin connectors. What probably fixed this furnace was the need to rotate the 12-way connector 180° to match the new board. This placed new forces on the contacts which were better than the original position. The cure might be for you and your colleagues here on UA-cam to ask furnace makers to stop using round pin connectors and switch to small flat pin connectors like the auto industry uses.
I ONCE SAID TO A GUY LOOKING FOR A TOOL, " IF IT HAD BEEN A SNAKE IT WOULD HAVE BIT YOU AND HE REPLIED, "IF IT HAD BEEN A SNAKE I WOULDN'T HAVE BEEN LOOKING FOR IT."
What led your reasoning that the circuit board was bad when the initial board, by blinking 3 lights, was pointing to "another" issue? You replaced the circuit board--but did that address the initial issue? I would have cut that black zip tie to get your wires a bit more "freedom" on the Molex adapter plug. But, it worked the way you did it. I am not arm-chair quarterbacking you; I enjoy your videos. . .I ask out of ignorance.
not minnesota there. suppose to get -35*f windchill tonight everyday i drive to/from work in blizzards 20mph commute very bad roads daily this past sunday night visibility only a foot or 2 in front of my bumper i drive a old '91 k1500 all the way home these new pickups pull over side of the road flashers on windshield wipers big clumps ice/frozen snow then i pass them they all followed me home 2 1/2 hour drive home convoy of new trucks behind me same thing tonight. feels good to see green lawn & sunshine in a yt video
it's usually more from vibration than heat cycling that breaks the connector plug solder joints. but some do have relay contact failures which then cooks there own solder joints loose.
Hi there, I'm having almost the same situation. Keep getting a pressure switch code on a Goodman package unit. It goes thru the whole cycle for about 3 to 4 minute, then error. Any suggestions?
Could be an exhaust flow issue/restriction somewhere, or a bad board connection, since it works for a few minutes. I had that happen to me, and it turned out it was a frosted-up plastic grate on the exhaust pipe atop the roof. In hindsight, climbing onto the snowy roof in winter, was probably more dangerous than the voltage in the furnace lol. A trick to see if there is a loose connection/board solder joint issue; is to flex the wires in a different way than they've been all their life. If you've got the wire slack, turning the big plug 360 degrees and plugging it back on and see if the behavior changes, and wiggling all the wires a little during that 3-4 minutes to see if it drops out early. To note though; I'm not a professional, just a circuit board guy that knows safety around 120v.
Pull out the pressure switch hose from the cold end header box (the side that goes to the furnace) and look at the port. If you see some calcium buildup, fit a screwdriver the size of the hole and turn and push/pull to clear out. Using the same hose, pull off of pressure switch and connect to cold end header box and blow hard. Reconnect to pressure switch and retest. If that doesn't fix it it's either, vent pipe related or drain if it's a high efficiency furnace.
I do have one question. When you were disconnecting the old board, you were pulling the wires instead of the spade connectors themselves. We’re you testing for loose spade terminal wiring connections?
As always, your HVAC videos are the standard others try to achieve: instructive, humorous at times, extremely relaxing, and interesting. “It’s like a box of chocolates, you never know what your going to get.”
I really enjoy your videos, Ted. I enjoy the longer videos most. Thank you for taking the time to video your work. I hope you and your family had a wonderful Christmas. Have a safe and happy New Year!
Ah! There you go - this one is installed the right way round, as opposed to the wrong way round, just as you said in the last video I watched. Man speak the truth!!!
A man of many talents, nice work Ted!
Only reason I still watch or follow residential style equipment channels like Ted's is to not forget about them....i don't come across split systems very much anymore and over time...you can forget about them and how to navigate through them....even though i was residential for quite a few years. I dont want to loose the skills and knowledge i once gained because i don't hardly work on splits anymore. Dont use it....loose it.
I aspire to one day have replacement boards in my truck! Instead of going to the supply house like a chump. Then maybe I will have time to relax & jam on the customers guitar 😂 Love your vids you have taught me so much
Hello. I've watched for a while. Never commented. This video got my attention after last year when my heater quit working. I was told they were 99% sure it was my motherboard that failed. $400 later. With there service call and ordering the board.. Labor. It still didn't work. I was told they would adjust something on the new board. It turned out to be a small round metal piece. High limit? They put new one on. Worked great ever since. I told them I don't want that new board. Since the high limit fixed the problem. Was told they still don't think my old motherboard worked. I will never call that company again. I was had!
Well thank you very much for watching my videos, and I am very glad you commented!
17:43- I saw you removing the board with a pair of wire strippers and was going to suggest the bic pen idea (i work on computers, so I made one years ago) but then you mentioned it. But, you have to cut off the business end of the pen and then pop out the button on the top. The hole that's left after removing the button is the precise diameter necessary to squeeze the legs of the standoff together while pulling on the board. Well done.
Its likely that the solder points on the back of the board had small cracks, providing intermittent issues like you induced, usually it is the corner pins that crack. In a pinch, when parts are not available and heat is critical, you can place nonconductive material behind the board to slightly bend the material and force connection, it usually works until you can return.
It is nice that you explained the wiring more on this one!! thx
At 19:10 the newest version has a plastic piece that just sits in the metal plate to support the area of the board where you plug in the wire harness. You could have swapped the one on the older one to the new one too.
Good tip about holding the board when pushing the molex plugs back on. VERY IMPORTANT!!!
New guys... Listen to Ted. He's giving you all the good stuff you need to know. 😎👍
Watching you work and listening to your soft voice is almost hypnotic; I think it has a new name today of ASMR or something like that meaning relaxing. Always glad to see a new post from the Palmetto.
He's the Bob Ross of HVAC 🤠
Sounded like Stray Cats; good stuff.
Did you re-attach the sticker with the codes on it?
Times in a pinch, like weekend and not having board in van I have used a little screwdriver in the slot of nine or twelve point pin and opened it up so when harness plugs in its a tighter and snug fit. This happens alot on tranes. Sometimes spreading and opening male part of plug works. Good job.
Obviously a true mechanic. Keep up the good work.
That shows experience. Because i change a board only 1 wire at a time. Great job
No shame there. 1 wire at a time and zero mistakes is still a success in my book.
@@analogmoz Taking a picture also helps. But then he was filming it so, about the same.
I had the exact same issue last week with a trane same board. I tried to make a better connection with the molex with no evail. I replaced the board with a new revision no issues since.
That noose on the pull down step ladder reminded me of the one in the NASCAR garage ... 😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣 Thx for sharing ...
I think we need to get the FBI involved.
It was a finger loop. Why do you think it looks like a noose?
Call the FBI... They will send an army of investigators to figure it out. Reerreeeeerreeee reerreeeeerreeee
Bubba Wallace 😂 Jussie Smollett
why did you remove the additional fan speed wires?
So as someone who is looking to get into the hvac field. I have see you change a few boards now, and I have a question. Would it not be easier to unplug one wire at a time and place it on the new board?
Great video. I have a question and it may be a dumb one. But how well does that high temp rtv silicone hold condensation? And you are right about it being correct. It says in the trane installation manual to use that for that connection. Even though when I asked trane they had no idea what I was talking about lol
Depends on the brand you're installing. I always high temp silicone, make it easier to fix and check for blocked exhaust vents.
Thanks for the educational videos bud, I work on soda fountain equipment and I've found that McDonald's coffee straws are perfect for removing circuit boards from stand offs, set your straws, and the board comes right off.
Use high temperature RTV silicone sealant to attach the air intake pipe into the connector on the burner box so the air intake pipe can be removed if service is required. NOTE: Do not use cement.
Female plug on control. Board need cleaning. Electric clean. All power off for a hour
Good video Ted. I'm rather sure the exhaust pipe never was fixed well enough and simply worked its way out over time or since the last service if the tech had been there and it was still connected. I guess there's a "fuse bandit" running around your neighborhood too. Its good to have a box of those on hand so there's no running out of them. I'm sure that board simply wore out due to heat and power cycles since many of them fail due to poor build quality, they self destruct due to under engineered robust printed circuits and solder joints. Would have been a good idea to use some clear packaging tape and affix that diagnosis label back on the door. Maybe you did off camera or put it someplace else that will be useful. Great job having that part on the truck too ! The surly helps the customers out, only one trip.
you have to be kidding right?
Here in texas copper is allowed for propane but not natural gas. Supposedly with natural gas the copper corrodes from the inside out.
the biggest issue with copper for gas lines, is from idiots running it haphazardly and letting it touch other dissimilar metals, concrete and other things it can react with, also at the transition fittings. there's more galvanic corrosion at any points it touches something else, so it needs carefully routed and maintained.
way back when gas was much wetter/contaminated, it did cause more corrosion issues, not really an issue anymore unless you live on hob-knob-holler and get it supplied directly from wells unfiltered.
In the UK copper is used for natural gas in I would say 99% of domestic properties. Rarely come a cross steel apart from in commercial /industrial units where it is common.
Loved the musical interlude you provided👍👍👍👍😃😃😃😃 Happy New Year to you and your family.
This is what happens when the manufacturer saves 25 cents on the PCB. It's actually kind of unbelievable how cheap these PCBs are. The beige material is a cheap paper phenolic substrate (instead of fiberglass FR4, like on real grown-up boards), and the board is single-sided with no plated through-holes, which means the solder joints are extremely weak (there is nothing keeping the component pin from popping through). After a few thousand heat/cool cycles the solder joints will inevitably crack and the board will stop working. The new board is a double-sided board, which is exponentially more reliable. The through-holes are actually plated on the inside, which means you have a solid plug of solder holding the pins, not just a thin fillet on one side.
I would stay away from any equipment that still uses single-sided boards. Even Goodman doesn't do it anymore. It's a sign of penny pinching to the max.
Issue is that the PCB was mounted on a wobbly metal bracket (you can see it shake when he's troubleshooting). On top of that it had a heavy set of wires pulling on the plug. PCB could be better, but me mechanical tension and stresses will result in any PCB failures. Hanging wires and poor mount locations definitely played a role in this failure.
gor312
The mfrs probably want these failures because it results in service calls and people make money, and more often than not these unreputable HVAC people will just tell the customer you need a new system...
Really enjoy all your advice and years of experience. When you get a chance what do you think of the Halo Rene ultraviolet peroxide inducing air purifier to that I would like to have installed. Thank you for all your videos. Please try to answer this question.
What is that alligator clip you are using at 4:00? Is that a resistor?
I recently had a pain in the ass furnace at a nursing home. Found the inducer getting power but not running...no big deal. Replace the inducer.....inducer starts....now getting the 3 flash for pressure switch...verified pressure switch was closed...tried jumping it out...still 3 flashes.....bad board....replace the board.....inducer starts, pressure switch now being recognized as closed.....heat fires up.......blower never turns on....capacitor was good....windings were bad.....3rd trip to supply house for a blower motor. Install blower.....inducer starts, pressure switch is being recognized as closed, heat fires up.....blower starts.....i can finally go home.
( commercial/ industrial, we dont carry truck stock like residential companies do. We carry caps, belts, contactors and a few relays, t-stat or two and maybe a couple other smaller items ). The parts house was 1 hour round-trip. Long ass day...pain in the ass York furnace.
Copper gas line is legal up here in New Jersey. Worked for the gas company.. for many years.. it was used in. The late 80s... But you are correct..... Just a version of the new gas tigh like they use now.. it was all about saving time.. as it is now.. I remember hand therding 2 inch.. 11 threads ouch..,.
Why would you not trace the pressure switch wire to the board and look at the trace side with a loupe and at least check continuity before replacing an expensive board. Chances are (for sure) you have a cold solder on the board
May I ask what replacement board ur using? Is it a icm?
Not sure if you pulled the fuse for viewers entertainment purposes to be a Cliff Hanger, but it sure got my attention when nothing fired up when you jumped it out.
Greatest Hvac Tech ever !
Ted Cook
Did you find a cold solder joint on the control?
Ted can i ask your opinion on Trane quality declining? My last home i bought a trane 18+ years ago and in all that time only a compressor capacitor needed replaced. Hard to stop a Trane! Advance two years and my new to me home needs a new unit. Sorry not in your operating range. It’s Lennox 5 ton heat pump at 16 years young which means it was/is reliable as well (inside coil rusting away is reason for replacement). My first thought on replacement was Trane, but i’m reading many negative reviews on Trane’s quality … well falling off the tracks. Now i know you’re a bit impartial, but do you have any thoughts on the quality aspect of Trane as of late?
Blame greedy corps using cheap labor to profit more
34:00 Not legal in Texas! 😁👍 Its called out copper = bad and won't pass inspection. I notice a lot of states say ok, and then a lot say nope on the whole controversy. One arm chair constructive criticism would have been to cut the zip tie so the wires aren't pulled so tight and put a new one on. Other than that great video and troubleshooting sir. 🍺
Why are these units in the attic?
Where im from they're all first floor.
Love the ch! No bs real results!
Really like your work, god bless happy new year!!
Same to you!
I like Ted's videos,hes like a detective lol very aware of his surroundings
A beautiful home. Flue joints didn’t appear to have been primed before ‘gluing’.
Glad you turned me on to tub o towels. They are great. Buy mine at Harbor Freight in Dillon
it's wise to strap the pipe and screw to the case on horizontal furnace flues. that does appear to have "the roofers were here" written all over it, as well as the problem of glue instead of silicone.
wrap steel strap around the flue, bolt it tight and over screwed to side of cabinet. that's sure not the first one I've seen ripped out. even some vertical unit's were ripped out because the flue was their dog chain tie point, ""gee, why do we have headaches feel drowsy and have CO alarm going off"" 🙄
Good call,as usual.Happy and healthy New Year to you.
You have a bad solder connection on that Board. Toobad you dont solder pcb's
Got the Trane back on the tracks! Good job!
Broken solder joints on that molex receptacle. I have reflowed the solder in a pinch-late at night or on the weekend to get the customer some heat.
I like how you raised the air handler, must be an old house looking at the rafters
the best thing you did was getting rid of that tape,that was a close one,nice job,those trane boards seem to do that.
Ahh the old cracked solder on the back of the board problem. I've replaced many boards because of this. Also have broke out the soldering iron and repaired a few.
Also what Japanese restaurant do you prefer in the upstate? I always preferred Mimi's in Simpsonville but they have shutdown now.
Did they have roofing work done ?
Why are float switches installed with the entire wire? 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
The solder points on the backs of those boards crack over time, White Rogers boards are famous for it. You wiggle the wires at the board and get trips in operation with all the plug terminals seated properly in the plug, Go get a board!
or reflow the connections and save the homeowner a few hundred dollars.
Replace the board. It could be bad solder, intermittent relay, cracked trace, etc. It’s not worth a callback and the customer will not be happy whenever the board fails again (and it will fail).
Love you videos, although I am curious how many other Bama fans as myself watch your channel. Roll Tide Roll!
As always Ted you're a nice guy love your videos too.
I bought a house 1.5 years ago. An inspector told me I need a new air-conditioning and heater unit. After watching your videos. I said hell no. I have replaced one door switch for the heater and had freon added for the a/c. All for less than $360. Thank you for your videos.
Center standoff on that board limits midspan board deflection and increases fatigue life of the board....big molex board mounted plug, a challenge to preheat uniformly, sometimes resulting in semi-cold solder joints during wave soldering.
I think that board wasn't stable enough and kept shaking and caused connection & disconnection and eventually burned something up.
A board must be tight to the panel.
Nice guitar work !!
Cut the zip tie re do it
You are so knowledgeable
Here's a diy tip for the day , when handling system boards always use alcohol or wear gloves because the contamination is real and WILL EAT THE BOARD SURFACE
Nice job, great after work plan
7:45 😆 yeah, good idea lol. The way you said it, got me.
Whoa, touching another person's guitar. Idk about that...... especially the way my cousin was around his guitar......
Nice though
He is a friend.
@@TedCookHVAC I totally understand then.
I am just starting out myself. I have a guitar now, but I still need to get the tuning done and what not because it's used and I got it for free basically. You played well and made me want to play.
I left for a minute and came back to Keith Richards. 😂😂😂😂😂
That is why I think a Furnace should really have metal pipe with screws in them.
That replacement board is Emerson green
Man, I love seeing you pick up a guitar.
Use a piece of 1/4 inch copper to release the stand offs
Enjoyed the video Ted.
Glad to hear it !!
Not that you didn't fix the furnace, but my experience suggests a different root cause of the failure. The weak spot is those round pin connectors. What probably fixed this furnace was the need to rotate the 12-way connector 180° to match the new board. This placed new forces on the contacts which were better than the original position. The cure might be for you and your colleagues here on UA-cam to ask furnace makers to stop using round pin connectors and switch to small flat pin connectors like the auto industry uses.
I believe that was a little Stray Cat Strut riff. From B Setzer and the boys. Nice.
Oh yeh, that replacement controller board is a major upgrade in quality.
I ONCE SAID TO A GUY LOOKING FOR A TOOL, " IF IT HAD BEEN A SNAKE IT WOULD HAVE BIT YOU AND HE REPLIED, "IF IT HAD BEEN A SNAKE I WOULDN'T HAVE BEEN LOOKING FOR IT."
What led your reasoning that the circuit board was bad when the initial board, by blinking 3 lights, was pointing to "another" issue? You replaced the circuit board--but did that address the initial issue? I would have cut that black zip tie to get your wires a bit more "freedom" on the Molex adapter plug. But, it worked the way you did it. I am not arm-chair quarterbacking you; I enjoy your videos. . .I ask out of ignorance.
Ah...Nice picking Ted! Cheers man!
not minnesota there. suppose to get -35*f windchill tonight everyday i drive to/from work in blizzards 20mph commute very bad roads daily this past sunday night visibility only a foot or 2 in front of my bumper i drive a old '91 k1500 all the way home these new pickups pull over side of the road flashers on windshield wipers big clumps ice/frozen snow then i pass them they all followed me home 2 1/2 hour drive home convoy of new trucks behind me same thing tonight. feels good to see green lawn & sunshine in a yt video
great minds think alike i use a blue color tube bic pen to remove the standoffs works perfect! even have it labeled so no one tosses it ..
Cold solder joint on the board I find a lot of those lately but I may be premature haven't finished watching the whole video
Bring out the $100 bill and clean the flame rod first thing.
7:36 / Exhaust fumes ; Herbie and the Man
I have fixed a lot of those boards by taking a pocket knife blade and spreading the pins that go into the plug.
Prime example of why door switches should not be taped on a furnace like this one is. Open flue and untrustworthy non sealed blower door.
Sorry if I missed it, but what did you smear on that pipe?
It’s rtv silicone
broken pcb. hot/cold/hot/cold. that one looks pretty flimsy too. next time slide a crystal bic pen between the pcb and the case it's mounted to.
Nice fretwork on stray cat strut. :)
it's usually more from vibration than heat cycling that breaks the connector plug solder joints. but some do have relay contact failures which then cooks there own solder joints loose.
3 flashes is usually a pressure switch am I wrong?
Pretty sure that's what the sticker said.
pressure switch, exhaust/vent pipe or inducer motor.
the solder points came loose not make a good connection on the 12 pin connector it happens all the time
Where old board was hot and no components..... Internal board problem.... Traces could be in layers inside the board
Was that Stray Cats...Pretty good guitar!
Hi there, I'm having almost the same situation. Keep getting a pressure switch code on a Goodman package unit. It goes thru the whole cycle for about 3 to 4 minute, then error. Any suggestions?
Could be an exhaust flow issue/restriction somewhere, or a bad board connection, since it works for a few minutes. I had that happen to me, and it turned out it was a frosted-up plastic grate on the exhaust pipe atop the roof. In hindsight, climbing onto the snowy roof in winter, was probably more dangerous than the voltage in the furnace lol.
A trick to see if there is a loose connection/board solder joint issue; is to flex the wires in a different way than they've been all their life. If you've got the wire slack, turning the big plug 360 degrees and plugging it back on and see if the behavior changes, and wiggling all the wires a little during that 3-4 minutes to see if it drops out early.
To note though; I'm not a professional, just a circuit board guy that knows safety around 120v.
Pull out the pressure switch hose from the cold end header box (the side that goes to the furnace) and look at the port. If you see some calcium buildup, fit a screwdriver the size of the hole and turn and push/pull to clear out. Using the same hose, pull off of pressure switch and connect to cold end header box and blow hard. Reconnect to pressure switch and retest. If that doesn't fix it it's either, vent pipe related or drain if it's a high efficiency furnace.
Stray cats…
I though for a second he was going to take out his 100$ bill to wipe his finger.
Funny
Stray Cat Strut...way to go!
Obviously the board is fried and contacts are loose so change the board and get it over with
That guitar sounds like it hasn’t gotten some love in awhile.
Great job on finding a issue with the board. Do you offer the customers a whole house surge protector to protect those PCB?
Uncle Ted with some Stray Cats 🐈 😂😂😂
You got cat class and you got cat style. I haven't heard that "snake / would have bit me" since I was around Southerners in the military.
I do have one question. When you were disconnecting the old board, you were pulling the wires instead of the spade connectors themselves. We’re you testing for loose spade terminal wiring connections?