Lets be clear, the only reason I use the word HACK is because it seems to be the only way to have someone decide to click on the video. This is video is fundamentals that will help you take better photos and I want more people to get the basics. froknowsphoto.com/11days 11 Days To Better Photography FREE mini video course.
Your tutorials have been really helpful. When I got my first dslr camera I want to take full control of it and the only way is to get out of auto exposure. Your videos have been my guide on how to shoot manually. Thanks! Keep posting videos like this.
Jared, in terms of more videos about the fundamentals of photography (which I love!) can you do one all about lens filters! Like time and place, what they are, what they're for!
Great video. I've been shooting for a few years now, but would hardly call myself good, because I'm always skipping over some of the basics lol. This was a good video to review some points I've been ignoring recently.
Good video Jared. The problem I have, is when using my D500 fitted with a 200-500mm zoom, the light meter will bounce around all over the place. I get around this by taking a couple of test shots.
I mainly shoot in manual. Sometimes when I feel lazy I take a shot in center- weighted average as a starting point and than adjust my parameters to get what I need.
Jared: As a professional photographer, how do you deal adding to this basic "How Get The Right Exposure" the Zone system ? Do you follow strict technical details or is just more intuitive for you the fact that you have to considere some slight under or over exposure to not loose detail either represent a real white color? Thank you.
This might be a stupid question but what the hell. Just started using flash (600ex) here recently to take my daughters senior pics and having an issue of wrapping my head around this. METERING MODE for portraits outdoor with fill flash off camera. Is it better to shoot in evaluative or spot. Here are my thoughts if shooting in manual aperture@4.0, shutter@200 and ISO@200 the flash ETTL is the variable in properly exposing the photo correctly. The evaluative metering would meter the entire scene, if the shutter speed is to fast which is controlling the ambient light to be darker causing higher flash output causing your subject to be over exposed correct me if I'm wrong or is it better to spot meter the subject so the flash output is base on the subjects face not the entire scene. Meter modes seems to be a subject that is not explained vary much on when to use it I can't find a explanation for it. Started photography as a hobby back in 1986 in the Navy shooting aircraft on the USS Midway. I've shot with Canon 620, 650, A2, 7d and recently purchased a new 5D 4. Your help would be appreciative or from anyone in the comments. Thank You
Use shutter speed for more light if you want good bokeh, if your bokeh is already where you want it then instead use the shutter speed to create more light. Simple. But it depends on what you're shooting, for example if you want higher shutter speed because your shooting something moving quick. Then instead use aperture to let in more light. Neither of them is wrong it's about your preference. Don't overthink it.
Hi Jared I cannot get my light meter right I have Nikon D7100 I do know what it is but how do I move it and what mode in viewfinder or on top of little view
Im trying to learn off camera flash using a light meter to get settings when i get these settings do i enter the same metering into my light camera meter? Or just to the flash trigger ?
I did not even notice the word "HACK" in the description - heh. So my Nikon cameras that have a built-in light meter, I find myself most of the time, shooting for highlights, and "exposing" for shadows. This works really well with a Nikon camera with a 14bit image sensor. Or perhaps, just a camera that saves RAW files at a 14bit color depth. Period. With that said, I like to shoot a lot of landscape scenes, and sometimes, when you have a specific subject. That may not always work. The beauty of a 14bit color depth RAW file though. Is that in lightroom, you can often bring back a lot of shadows. Highlights, when blown out, are mostly, if not all of the time unrecoverable.
Hi Jared. I have learn most of my photo skills watching your videos. I was wondering if you can make one explaining, how can we get our nikon lenses focus to infinity ? In a d3200 for example... cause yeah ..that is all i can afford now. thanks .
Hi Jared, why when i put it on the center the picture is soo oover exposure?? Need to put it on left (minus) little abit left than your (1st tried) here.
I think live view is a quicker more accurate way, for most "good" cameras. My first image is always in live view. I make the adjustment take a photo. Take a few seconds to really look at it. If exposure is good. It's good. Live view is what the image is. Right after I jump into view finder shots and I drop to the ground for low angle shots because canon 5d doesn't have flippy screen [starts crying]
CG documentary Most photographers would prefer a zoom between 50-100mm for portraits, but that doesn't mean you have to follow that statement. Try that out and see how it goes!
No. You should be shooting portraits at 75mm or above. Many use 85mm , but many more pros use a 70-200mm for shooting portraits. A 35mm is a wide angle lens that will distort and unflatter the subject. Above 85mm will compress the image and will flatter the subject. Keep your 35mm though, it's good for large group shots in tight places.
CG documentary That Sigma lens is designed for APS-C cameras, using it on a full frame will create crazy vignetting. In other terms, you've got full frake and APS-C completely backwards. Full frame is the standard size of sensors, and APS-C is smaller. Using a lens designed for full frame on an APS-C will apply a crop factor. 1.6x for Canon, 1.5x for other manufacturers. So, using a 50mm 1.8, a lens designed for full frame, will yeild 85mm on your 80D.
No, it actually stands for International Organization of Standardization. Here, have a look. www.digitaltrends.com/photography/what-is-iso-camera-settings-explained/
My light meter keep on staying minus (negative) even on sunny and good lighting, making the picture dark! Please help. I shoot on manual, ISO 100 (meter starts reacting once the ISO is on HI) , Shutter 1/400 (went down to 8) , AP f4. I got D3300.
Jared Polin Thanks for the recommend, sounds like a good supplemental resource. I'm still working through the assignments of Matt's Take Control of the Light series.
I have been trying to import my RAW photos to lightroom (PC) and (sure wish I could video comment) I open lightroom, insert SD card to pc, lightroom comes up (upload screen), pictures are clear, then when all photos are on the screen (uploaded) all photos go dark (kind of like not highlighted). Now that the photos are like this (even if they are all check marked) I cannot import them. Can you please help? I am trying to "I SHOOT RAW" hehe
Sounds like you tried to import the same photos twice and Lightroom is preventing you from doing so. When you are in Library, select All Photographs in the catalog pane and check if your photos are already there.
Just looking at somethings regarding Light Meters and came across this video of yours that I have watched before and as always, I felt I came away with more knowledge for having watched.......also, the 3 Shots or Less and the Ten Minute Portraits are my favorite segments. That said, but that is not why I am writing today. The reason I am writing today is to say you looked so much happier doing this video then what I see and hear from you on YT and the daily pod cast. And I have to say it is kind of sad to see.
No. You can correct white balance in post. For exposure you have to get the correct exposure in camera because you can only somewhat correct exposure in post. If you clip the highlights or clip the shadows by being over or under exposed, you will lose that data and lose that detail.
The next video should be on the histogram as a lot of people are using the light meter for video and Landscape work, when the histogram in live view is what you want to use, ESPECIALLY for LOG footage, the light meter won't be right. You should explain 18% grey and where it should show up on the histogram, etc.
You did not use the light meter on hands-on here. I was waiting for it. You only discuss the ideal reading of the light meter. You should use the light meter on hands-on for your next video. That way newbies can learn also.
i am talking about you. Tell me, if you shoot a white wall, how are going to meter that? definitely not by zeroing the meter imo, only a hand held light meter in incident metering with the dome in can tell you the correct exposure in the above example; or by spot metering a grey card in the same light as the white wall; now, that hand held light meter should be calibrated along with your camera, because what your camera think iso 100 should be is not in fact the real mccoy. otherwise, just spot meter and overexpose by 1 or 2 stops, but that's just guessing not the correct exposure
He addressed that at the very beginning. He said that zeroing your camera's meter won't always give you the "right" exposure but that it's a good starting point.
I hate nitpick , but Fro dude , fix your White balance . Yes , it's your fault ; you spoiled us by giving us perfectly white balance videos all the time .
You know what's funny is that in 2017 we're still making videos on how to use old dslrs when in fact all the new mirrorless cameras have real time live view exposures so this video is kind of useless
DSLRs aren't going away anytime soon so your point holds no water. Not everyone can afford mirrorless cameras. Anyhow, he's showing a technique that EVERYONE can use. Many DSLRs, when you shoot in Live View Mode and Aperture Priority, also show you how dark or bright a scene is before you take the picture. Besides, he's trying to get people to learn the bones of these techniques by navigating stops and all that, not just to look at a screen and not know how anything works.
Coty Kelly I love the "what you see if what you get" viewfinder. Honestly beginners could really benefit from starting mirrorless since it makes shooting manual make much more sense. Honestly I can't shoot auto anything on my Fuji, it's such a pain
Lets be clear, the only reason I use the word HACK is because it seems to be the only way to have someone decide to click on the video. This is video is fundamentals that will help you take better photos and I want more people to get the basics.
froknowsphoto.com/11days 11 Days To Better Photography FREE mini video course.
Jared Polin that's very reasonable in this youtube-age, unfortunately. don't blame you. good video! :)
Makes sense. The word hack is now a hack. Thanks for all the videos. Good stuff.
So you're using clickbait ☹
I will do what I need to do to get the message out to help people learn.
It also doesn't hurt more experienced photographers to get back to the basics.
I love when I randomly click on a video when I’m trying to learn something and it happens to be you! Thanks for all the great content!
Your tutorials have been really helpful. When I got my first dslr camera I want to take full control of it and the only way is to get out of auto exposure. Your videos have been my guide on how to shoot manually. Thanks! Keep posting videos like this.
Jared, in terms of more videos about the fundamentals of photography (which I love!) can you do one all about lens filters! Like time and place, what they are, what they're for!
Great video. I've been shooting for a few years now, but would hardly call myself good, because I'm always skipping over some of the basics lol. This was a good video to review some points I've been ignoring recently.
Jared,
Question….. Can this method also be used for studio photography and external flashes without the need for an external light meter?
Thanks , you are the reason why i started taking photos .
Good video Jared. The problem I have, is when using my D500 fitted with a 200-500mm zoom, the light meter will bounce around all over the place. I get around this by taking a couple of test shots.
I mainly shoot in manual. Sometimes when I feel lazy I take a shot in center- weighted average as a starting point and than adjust my parameters to get what I need.
video failed to say what light metering mode to use. Matrix, Spot, other?
Jared: As a professional photographer, how do you deal adding to this basic "How Get The Right Exposure" the Zone system ? Do you follow strict technical details or is just more intuitive for you the fact that you have to considere some slight under or over exposure to not loose detail either represent a real white color? Thank you.
This might be a stupid question but what the hell. Just started using flash (600ex) here recently to take my daughters senior pics and having an issue of wrapping my head around this. METERING MODE for portraits outdoor with fill flash off camera. Is it better to shoot in evaluative or spot. Here are my thoughts if shooting in manual aperture@4.0, shutter@200 and ISO@200 the flash ETTL is the variable in properly exposing the photo correctly. The evaluative metering would meter the entire scene, if the shutter speed is to fast which is controlling the ambient light to be darker causing higher flash output causing your subject to be over exposed correct me if I'm wrong or is it better to spot meter the subject so the flash output is base on the subjects face not the entire scene. Meter modes seems to be a subject that is not explained vary much on when to use it I can't find a explanation for it. Started photography as a hobby back in 1986 in the Navy shooting aircraft on the USS Midway. I've shot with Canon 620, 650, A2, 7d and recently purchased a new 5D 4. Your help would be appreciative or from anyone in the comments. Thank You
Hey Jared, do any of your guides feature how to use strobes? If not could you make a video or videos on how to use them?
Coffee House Media I believe he has a guide on flash photography. Hope this helps.
I use the semi auto modes. Shutter and Aperture priority.
Hi sir, What if I have the options to either slow the shutter down or open the aperture more? Which one should I go for and why? Thanks :)
Use shutter speed for more light if you want good bokeh, if your bokeh is already where you want it then instead use the shutter speed to create more light. Simple. But it depends on what you're shooting, for example if you want higher shutter speed because your shooting something moving quick. Then instead use aperture to let in more light. Neither of them is wrong it's about your preference. Don't overthink it.
thank you so much! I've been wondering about it a lot.. this helps a ton, thanks again!
Hi Jared I cannot get my light meter right I have Nikon D7100 I do know what it is but how do I move it and what mode in viewfinder or on top of little view
Thanks Jared. I too am out of auto thanks to your video!!!!!
Im trying to learn off camera flash using a light meter to get settings when i get these settings do i enter the same metering into my light camera meter? Or just to the flash trigger ?
awesome. thank you. short and sweet. to the point. love it
I did not even notice the word "HACK" in the description - heh.
So my Nikon cameras that have a built-in light meter, I find myself most of the time, shooting for highlights, and "exposing" for shadows. This works really well with a Nikon camera with a 14bit image sensor. Or perhaps, just a camera that saves RAW files at a 14bit color depth. Period.
With that said, I like to shoot a lot of landscape scenes, and sometimes, when you have a specific subject. That may not always work. The beauty of a 14bit color depth RAW file though. Is that in lightroom, you can often bring back a lot of shadows. Highlights, when blown out, are mostly, if not all of the time unrecoverable.
Hello mate , Im from the UK , Will your 3 hour dvd play on my Region 2 player ?
yes it will.
Hi Jared. I have learn most of my photo skills watching your videos. I was wondering if you can make one explaining, how can we get our nikon lenses focus to infinity ? In a d3200 for example... cause yeah ..that is all i can afford now. thanks .
André Jesus
You go to a higher fstop.
Appature setting
How to activate Light metter ?
I have Nikon D5600
Uuuughhhh finally. I get it now😂❤ thankssss
I'm totally out of auto thanks to you!
+El Guapodcast awesome!!!
Also gotta pay attention to metering mode you have set on your camera
How can I send photos to the fro critque
Haha. Thanks! Hey, where can I get a FroKnows Photo bobble head?
I think its verry good information 👍👍👍👍
Hi Jared, why when i put it on the center the picture is soo oover exposure??
Need to put it on left (minus) little abit left than your (1st tried) here.
On your 3 shot u turned on a light on back wall which helped u get that shot ?
Thank you very much... Its very helpful... ♥
I think live view is a quicker more accurate way, for most "good" cameras. My first image is always in live view. I make the adjustment take a photo. Take a few seconds to really look at it. If exposure is good. It's good. Live view is what the image is. Right after I jump into view finder shots and I drop to the ground for low angle shots because canon 5d doesn't have flippy screen [starts crying]
@jared Polin how much does your hair weigh?
think about it!
Excellent video with excellent information. Thank you!!!
I just bought sigma 18-35 f1.8 my camera is canon 80d, at 35 mm will it be any good for portrait?
CG documentary Most photographers would prefer a zoom between 50-100mm for portraits, but that doesn't mean you have to follow that statement. Try that out and see how it goes!
No. You should be shooting portraits at 75mm or above. Many use 85mm , but many more pros use a 70-200mm for shooting portraits. A 35mm is a wide angle lens that will distort and unflatter the subject. Above 85mm will compress the image and will flatter the subject. Keep your 35mm though, it's good for large group shots in tight places.
But i'm using aps-c, isnt 35 mm same with approximately 50mm on full frame?
CG documentary That Sigma lens is designed for APS-C cameras, using it on a full frame will create crazy vignetting. In other terms, you've got full frake and APS-C completely backwards. Full frame is the standard size of sensors, and APS-C is smaller. Using a lens designed for full frame on an APS-C will apply a crop factor. 1.6x for Canon, 1.5x for other manufacturers. So, using a 50mm 1.8, a lens designed for full frame, will yeild 85mm on your 80D.
35mm on 80d would be approx 50 mm on full frame cameras right?
what does ISO stand for in photography
Probably image sensor optimizer
Nearibris ! Thanks. So that's part of the exposure triangle.
No, it actually stands for International Organization of Standardization. Here, have a look.
www.digitaltrends.com/photography/what-is-iso-camera-settings-explained/
My light meter keep on staying minus (negative) even on sunny and good lighting, making the picture dark! Please help. I shoot on manual, ISO 100 (meter starts reacting once the ISO is on HI) , Shutter 1/400 (went down to 8) , AP f4. I got D3300.
Have you tried putting it in rice?
If it takes more than 3 shots, well here's your sign LOL thanks for sharing and like always great video.
wasnt this videos uploaded way back?
I wish I could expand it. I'm struggling when experimenting with off camera flash and lighting.
I have a guide for that. froknowsphoto.com/flashguide/
Jared Polin Thanks for the recommend, sounds like a good supplemental resource. I'm still working through the assignments of Matt's Take Control of the Light series.
I could not see the light meters on my d5600
I have been trying to import my RAW photos to lightroom (PC) and (sure wish I could video comment) I open lightroom, insert SD card to pc, lightroom comes up (upload screen), pictures are clear, then when all photos are on the screen (uploaded) all photos go dark (kind of like not highlighted). Now that the photos are like this (even if they are all check marked) I cannot import them. Can you please help? I am trying to "I SHOOT RAW" hehe
Sounds like you tried to import the same photos twice and Lightroom is preventing you from doing so. When you are in Library, select All Photographs in the catalog pane and check if your photos are already there.
I am at a different computer now so I will try it and see if this works.
it worked where I am right now. When I get home I will not put in my SD card and see if Lightroom has my pictures somewhere
For instance I want to shoot a bird from my window what do I change
thank u so much,love u
Why don't you just line up the light meter before you shoot?
Was thinking the same thing.
Too easy
Why is the video sooooooo green... I thought you were the Hulk 💪🏽🤢
It might be the giant green light behind him, maybe.
He wanted the Matrix look.
In Sony cameras, where is the lighting meter ?
Just looking at somethings regarding Light Meters and came across this video of yours that I have watched before and as always, I felt I came away with more knowledge for having watched.......also, the 3 Shots or Less and the Ten Minute Portraits are my favorite segments.
That said, but that is not why I am writing today. The reason I am writing today is to say you looked so much happier doing this video then what I see and hear from you on YT and the daily pod cast. And I have to say it is kind of sad to see.
The light meter show the left and right. One side to bright the other to dark. You need to get the in the middle
Why was the light switching at the back..
You can obviously correct exposure in post.
High Ground Productions and this is obviously not for those that know much about post if they're looking for metering videos...
No. You can correct white balance in post.
For exposure you have to get the correct exposure in camera because you can only somewhat correct exposure in post. If you clip the highlights or clip the shadows by being over or under exposed, you will lose that data and lose that detail.
Hi
are you reading off a teleprompter? because your eyes are moving really fast. anyways, great video! well said and explained in a short mater of time!
The next video should be on the histogram as a lot of people are using the light meter for video and Landscape work, when the histogram in live view is what you want to use, ESPECIALLY for LOG footage, the light meter won't be right. You should explain 18% grey and where it should show up on the histogram, etc.
Why didn't you talk about metering mode?
You did not use the light meter on hands-on here. I was waiting for it. You only discuss the ideal reading of the light meter. You should use the light meter on hands-on for your next video. That way newbies can learn also.
Man I fuckin love your videos
Why don't we just use the TTL meter instead?
i bet he'd look like john wick rocking a pony tail
Lol you just changed my life.
Love the shirt😂😂
Trim that beard, Fro! Go to a Dominican barber shop...they will hook you up!
Newbie question what body he's using?
The Fro got to go bro !
I just want to tie his hair up 🥰
LOLLL
so, in the end he zeroed the meter and that took him 3 attempts?
+Petru B. Who's he?
i am talking about you. Tell me, if you shoot a white wall, how are going to meter that? definitely not by zeroing the meter
imo, only a hand held light meter in incident metering with the dome in can tell you the correct exposure in the above example; or by spot metering a grey card in the same light as the white wall; now, that hand held light meter should be calibrated along with your camera, because what your camera think iso 100 should be is not in fact the real mccoy. otherwise, just spot meter and overexpose by 1 or 2 stops, but that's just guessing not the correct exposure
He addressed that at the very beginning. He said that zeroing your camera's meter won't always give you the "right" exposure but that it's a good starting point.
Great, but you didn't show how to use light meter.
He meant the camera's light meter.
How is this a hack.. auto ISO is a hack
It's not a hack, read what I wrote please.
Jared Polin "exposure tip" and I still would of watched.. 🤷🏽♂️
لماذا تستغرق وقت طويل للنشر
دمت جيدا
3 shots or less got me out of auto.. 👍
nice!!!
I hate nitpick , but Fro dude , fix your White balance .
Yes , it's your fault ; you spoiled us by giving us perfectly white balance videos all the time .
+Sam Toby the white balance is right on. You are nitpicking and missing the fact that there's a green light behind my head. So stop.
Second
You know what's funny is that in 2017 we're still making videos on how to use old dslrs when in fact all the new mirrorless cameras have real time live view exposures so this video is kind of useless
real time live view exposures in mirrorless camera is useless when the photographer uses flash or strobe light
DSLRs aren't going away anytime soon so your point holds no water. Not everyone can afford mirrorless cameras. Anyhow, he's showing a technique that EVERYONE can use. Many DSLRs, when you shoot in Live View Mode and Aperture Priority, also show you how dark or bright a scene is before you take the picture. Besides, he's trying to get people to learn the bones of these techniques by navigating stops and all that, not just to look at a screen and not know how anything works.
Or just join the mirrorless master race ;p
Mirrorless cameras still need the right exposure
hugh yes, but you can see where you’re dialing your exposure into before shooting the first picture.
Coty Kelly I love the "what you see if what you get" viewfinder. Honestly beginners could really benefit from starting mirrorless since it makes shooting manual make much more sense. Honestly I can't shoot auto anything on my Fuji, it's such a pain
That's blasphemy
Or just use exposure bracketing... :P this is not a Hack!
why would you use exposure bracketing to take three photos at different exposures vs getting the exposure right?
In Sony cameras, where is the lighting meter ?