Thanks for doing a review. I didnt know about the retrofit kit as ring doesn't seem to advertise it in any way I've seen. It's exactly what I needed. I've never worked with wires and the set-up was easy, breezy, beautiful, covergirl. I was lucky that my wires were already labeled. I had 6 zones but 1 zone linked 3 bedrooms, so i split those 3 bedrooms and ended up with a perfect 8 zones. I started using a multimeter but had no idea what i was doing with it so I gave up on using it. All zones were tested in the app and worked perfectly. I kept the retrofit in the metal box and so far no negative effects (the hub is about 6 feet away and separated by a wall). I saved a few buck$ by adding the retrofit kit and the security 5 piece kit separately to the shopping cart rather than their "discount" combo.
The retrofit kit WILL, in fact, work with the wired motion detectors. It just requires that the backup battery and ac power supply be connected. It is NOT recommended by Ring. There is no selection in the setup process for prewired motion detectors, you’d have to set it up as a secondary entry and silence the chirps. This worked for me.
They must have changed policy as when I called Ring support today they recommended just that . . . instead of transferring the wires from the old control box into the Ring retrofit kit, run a wire from the Ring retrofit kit into the control box terminals where the wired sensors are.
@@timbain5597 Yes, the motion detectors are their own zones (i.e. "Zone 4- Kitchen Motion"). As mentioned above, it's set as primary door if you have to pass that zone when exiting the house after arming - or you set it as secondary if you want to to sound the alarm immediately when triggered. I didn't not bother with the siren because my Ring base and keypads are positioned well to act as the siren. Good luck w/your install.
This is amazing! Thanks for making this video, I’m glad I subscribed to you a while back. I just bought a new home and just wished ring had something for a pre existing system and then your video showed up! Haha
Appreciate your videos. Are you suggesting the resistors I have on my existing system be removed for the Ring retrofit? What is the recommended ohm reading?
Hello Lifehackster I saw almost all your cámaras review there are pretty good, thanks for those review but I haven't see the review of the kasa outdoor camara. I was wondering when you will do that review. Thanks
I don’t have any real wiring experience other than YT school of wiring. I did it myself. 🙌🏽 I was even renegade enough to skip the multimeter tool too. My front and garage doors were tied to one zone in my old alarm panel. I separated the wires so that the front and garage doors were independent. Also take a pic of what you’d wiring looked like before you start work. Some things to note: - if a wired sensor location is open (and you want to leave it open), you have to remove that area from the away/home mode settings. If you use the “by-pass” option when arming, you will by-pass the retro kit itself thereby bypassing ALL wired sensors. So, either close that zone or disable it when arming away or home modes. 2. If you label the retro kit to a room, then set up your zones, because the wired zones are “children” off the retro kit, it will keep changing room names. Ex, set retro kit to master closet, add a wired zone and set room location to living room. If you go back to the location of the retro kit, it will show living room. It will keep updating its location for every wired zone you add. If you go back to the retro kit location and change it back to master closet, ALL wired zones locations changed to master closet. They are not independent zones in room naming convention. Since you label your zone with a room name, not being able to properly set the room names won’t kill you. I called this into Ring Customer service because it was driving me bonkers.
great info thank you but i have one question can i or is there a way to tape into the vivint system I already have up it about 5 or 6 years old and use the ring system .?
Will the older alarm kit work with the newer system that Ring released (base station, keypad, and sensors)? I am hoping that Ring will come out with a glass break sensor. Thank you
Zach’s Stuff - you can if you add a power source for the motion. I didn’t add my motion sensors because I have pets - no amount of settings will stop them from noticing my dog/cats. I’ll know you got into my house when you go through windows/door. I have Alexa in each room listening for other noises (glass break).
great video. I have a question. I currently have a wired system. I did add a couple wireless motion detectors. Will this retrofit kit work with the added wireless motion detectors? Also, Ring says I need to order their base in addition.
Revisiting this video... a few questions.. 1) I have 6 zones, one of which is a door / windows. How do I add zone 7, just for the door. Question 2: Do we need to snip off the resistors on the current ADT system. Thanks!
Since it doesn't seem like they want to release window break sensors, would this work if you buy wired window break sensors and run the wires to this retrofit kit, or does it only work with contact sensors? Does it set off the alarm or is it like the Alexa where it just notifies you and you still have to manually set off the alarm?
So if you sign up for the monitoring service, does that monitoring include the retro fit kit? In other words, if the alarm goes off because a burglar broke in. Also, can you use an existing keypad with the retro fit kit?
thx for this detail video. i'm curious why you decided to drill hole on old alarm box, vs. punching out the punch hole next to the new hole you drilled.
If you wanted to add glass break detectors on the ring alarm system.... You could use wired glass break detectors and then use the retrofit kit to interface them to the ring system.
@Michael Hardwire glassbreak detectors generally run off of 12volts DC power. You would have to check the amp draw for each one along with any other wired powered devices (like motions) to determine if the retrofit kit 12 volt output has enough amps. If it doesn't, you could always power the glassbreaks and motions from a separate 12 volt power source (with sufficient amps).
i have an existing alarm system front and back door have contacts i have a motion sensor and a fire detector and a siren would i be able to use the retrofit kit
Very helpful video...clear and detailed review. Thanks! Question...your old wired alarm system probably had an outdoor siren. What are you going to use to replace it? The ring system only offers 3rd party sirens that wouldn’t scare a cat. I know, I have one. The ring alarm is great but why they haven’t developed a loud outdoor siren is annoying. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
I have 48 zones including water bugs, not counting smoke, fire, etc. old nx-8 system with a 595e expander works great. i've been with ring for 5 years and have had 7 or 8 devices replaced (lost count). I wish ring would make an expander and give me one of these to try. I was supposed to be on their beta list but never received any emails from them to test products. ring still has not fixed their motion issue, if it's not resolved by time my subscription is over then i'll have an elite with 3 chimes for sale lol.
I have 6 existing hard wired zones. Is it worth doing the retrofit kit if I pay to have it installed or even if I try to install it? If I don't do the retrofit kit, I understand you have to deal with batteries but don't you also get the replacement warranty on everything if you have ring protect plus or pro?
I am sure you have probably already set it up however will give information to others. In the ADT older systems you will see a resistor on one side of sensor wire which goes on the zone #, the other goes to "C". If you have glass break or motion sensors, they require what is referred to excitation voltage which I just used the ADT voltage. I don't use the battery backup. If the ADT power supply fails, the zone's with voltage will show open. In this case you can find a 15v power supply as noted in the ADT panel.
The Retrofit kit is only meant to connect existing wired sensors into the Ring Alarm system. If you desired to keep your existing ADT system, what would you need the Ring system for?
If you want that, then you have to break down the zones. My front and garage door were one zone - I want them to be separate so I separated them. Same with my patio door, it’s wired with all the living room windows - I don’t want to use the wired sensor for this door because it always has to be closed to arm. I’m separating that one wire from the cluster so I can use Ring’s wireless sensor so I can arm the door in open/closed position with a second magnet. I also am going to separate my dining room window from the bedrooms cluster. Just because it annoys me that it was group with them. :) each ring retro kit handles 8 zones so it you have more than 8, you have to buy another retro kit.
STEPHEN Souto - are they in one zone on your current wired system? Then, yes - you’re just moving the zones over as currently wired. If not, you can join the two wired sensors together to make a zone.
I replaced pre-existing alarm key pad with Ring Key Pad X 2. I used black & red wiring (2 of 4 lines) on pre-existing keypad to power Ring Keypads (with adaptor). New Ring keypads are charged and "online." Once the RetroFit is installed, I presume I have to include the keypad wiring from the pre-existing alarm system into the the RetroFit system? Is this correct? Or is power to new Ring keypads powered through pre-existing alarm system exclusively and independent of RetroFit? Txs. Let me & others know!
OK. After thinking about it, I'm going to answer my own question. No need to attach Ring Keypad sensors to Retrofit hub. Power required for sensors drawn from pre-existing alarm system and not (battery operated) Retrofit. Duh....
Will this retrofit kit work with the existing alarm panels? Example, if I arm the system from my phone, does the panel on my wall also show it as armed?
With the Ring sensors you can trigger Alexa routines. An Alexa routine turns on some lights (Smart things) when the front door sensor is triggered at night. Is this true for the retrofit 'zones'?
Yes it can but it will be by zones...(zones can have multiple sensors on it) unless you can isolate a sensor (front door) and add it as a separate zone.
Yes, it supports multiple Retrofit kits. Unless you want to know the status of each individual sensor, you can combine sensors to make a "zone", like 2 windows in the same room, and possibly only need one kit.
I want to install the retrofit kit but my wires are short in the panel (they were never set up) what type of cable I can use to extend the wires? Thanks
I've recently bought a house with pre installed alarm system. If my house has 15 windows (each with its own sensor), would I need to install 2 retrofit alarm kit? (Since only accept 8 zones). How does it work? Thanks
There are enough utube videos on "electricity" that anyone can "do it". A mini-lesson. It is safe to lick the 9VDC battery terminals to see if the battery is good. However, with house wiring, NEVER put the black and white on your tongue to check for voltage. It will not kill you but you probably won't forget when you did it. With 12VDC +/- don't touch the red & black wires together as you will blow a fuse or create a little smoke. The meter is called a multi- meet er :o) I hope this helps someone.
No necessarily..monthly monitoring is only if you want to have it professionally monitored...you can self monitor and you don’t have to pay any monthly fees.
@@nosirrahm if you search google for ring you will see the privacy issues with their cameras. Personally I have removed 4 cameras from my home using them. I was a huge fan of their products till I looked deeper as did the EFF. Thanks to Lifehackster, I replaced the doorbell with the eufy that he reviewed and the other cameras I hardwired cat5 to unifi.
OK, I don’t have Ring cameras. I only have Ring Alarm. So the privacy issues is the possibility of law enforcement being able to use the camera footage. I guess I read too many Police crime books where they always look for neighborhood video footage when solving a crime. If it’s to solve a crime, I’m really not going to cry too much over privacy. 🤷🏽♀️
Is the retro kit only powered by batteries? It so anyway to hard wire to power? If not, shame on Ring, taking a hardwired security system and having 12 volt DC power there but not taking advantage of it. Even USB power outlet power is fine by me.
Nope. Just the battery. Also, you are basically just using the sensor wires and Ring recommends to unplug the AC power and also remove the backup battery of the hard wire unit..so battery is the way to go on this one and it is low power that the battery will last for at least a year or probably more.
@@LifeHackster Thanks for the reply, I'd just wish the option to never have to worry about a battery was there. Having it be able to power the siren that is wired in the home would be nice too. Also my wired motion sensor needs to have 12 volt DC from the security panel, so I would have to keep that plugged in to power that. Maybe they will come out with a gen 2 like they are with all the other gear. Also I agree, please come out with a glass break detector.
You should be able to solder a 6v toy battery charger onto the Retro Fit unit's +/- battery terminals. But shame on Ring for not offering the option of using the ~18v transformed terminals from the existing panel. While we're shaming, the lack of siren, smoke, carbon dioxide, and motion options is a significant oversight for anyone wanting to make the switchover to Ring. Hopefully, Version 3 corrects those deficiencies.
Ha! :-) I love how he says multimeter (muhl-tim-i-ter) 1:40 and 2:09 as I have never heard it pronounced this way. Don't ever change Lifehackster! Edit: Mere moments after giggling like a school girl and searching the phonetic pronunciation to cut and paste, it slowly became apparent that my Electronic Engineering Technology professors have taught us that the word was pronounced (muhl·tee·mee·ter). Apparently, I am in the minority, and Google believes the American pronunciation is (muhl-tim-i-ter) with the British pronunciation being (muhl·tee·mee·ter). This can't be. How can I, a Floridian have learned such a thing? What have I taught my former students? Am I a fraud? Nothing makes any sense. My God, everything I ever known has been a lie! I'm so ashamed. :-(
Thanks for doing a review. I didnt know about the retrofit kit as ring doesn't seem to advertise it in any way I've seen. It's exactly what I needed. I've never worked with wires and the set-up was easy, breezy, beautiful, covergirl. I was lucky that my wires were already labeled. I had 6 zones but 1 zone linked 3 bedrooms, so i split those 3 bedrooms and ended up with a perfect 8 zones. I started using a multimeter but had no idea what i was doing with it so I gave up on using it. All zones were tested in the app and worked perfectly. I kept the retrofit in the metal box and so far no negative effects (the hub is about 6 feet away and separated by a wall). I saved a few buck$ by adding the retrofit kit and the security 5 piece kit separately to the shopping cart rather than their "discount" combo.
The retrofit kit WILL, in fact, work with the wired motion detectors. It just requires that the backup battery and ac power supply be connected. It is NOT recommended by Ring. There is no selection in the setup process for prewired motion detectors, you’d have to set it up as a secondary entry and silence the chirps. This worked for me.
How do you connect the backup battery and AC power supply?
They must have changed policy as when I called Ring support today they recommended just that . . . instead of transferring the wires from the old control box into the Ring retrofit kit, run a wire from the Ring retrofit kit into the control box terminals where the wired sensors are.
@@hurrific Thanks for this info. Are your wired motion detectors set up as one zone on your retrofit kit then? Also, can you do this with the siren?
@@timbain5597 Yes, the motion detectors are their own zones (i.e. "Zone 4- Kitchen Motion"). As mentioned above, it's set as primary door if you have to pass that zone when exiting the house after arming - or you set it as secondary if you want to to sound the alarm immediately when triggered. I didn't not bother with the siren because my Ring base and keypads are positioned well to act as the siren. Good luck w/your install.
@@hurrific Thank you, really appreciate the help!
Just ordered mine! Really awesome to be able to save cash using existing sensors and be able to expand with their wireless sensors.
This is amazing! Thanks for making this video, I’m glad I subscribed to you a while back. I just bought a new home and just wished ring had something for a pre existing system and then your video showed up! Haha
Thank you.
Thanks for the info!! Looking forward to installing it.
Been waiting for this review 👍
Thank you.
Great video thank you
Appreciate your videos. Are you suggesting the resistors I have on my existing system be removed for the Ring retrofit? What is the recommended ohm reading?
Excellent video as always!
Question….Do the old contacts have to be ‘normally open’ or ‘normally closed’ or will it handle both types?
Thank you.
Great video life hackster!
Thank you.
Hello Lifehackster I saw almost all your cámaras review there are pretty good, thanks for those review but I haven't see the review of the kasa outdoor camara. I was wondering when you will do that review. Thanks
I don’t have any real wiring experience other than YT school of wiring. I did it myself. 🙌🏽 I was even renegade enough to skip the multimeter tool too.
My front and garage doors were tied to one zone in my old alarm panel. I separated the wires so that the front and garage doors were independent.
Also take a pic of what you’d wiring looked like before you start work.
Some things to note:
- if a wired sensor location is open (and you want to leave it open), you have to remove that area from the away/home mode settings. If you use the “by-pass” option when arming, you will by-pass the retro kit itself thereby bypassing ALL wired sensors. So, either close that zone or disable it when arming away or home modes.
2. If you label the retro kit to a room, then set up your zones, because the wired zones are “children” off the retro kit, it will keep changing room names.
Ex, set retro kit to master closet, add a wired zone and set room location to living room. If you go back to the location of the retro kit, it will show living room. It will keep updating its location for every wired zone you add. If you go back to the retro kit location and change it back to master closet, ALL wired zones locations changed to master closet. They are not independent zones in room naming convention. Since you label your zone with a room name, not being able to properly set the room names won’t kill you. I called this into Ring Customer service because it was driving me bonkers.
Thanks for the information.
great info thank you but i have one question can i or is there a way to tape into the vivint system I already have up it about 5 or 6 years old and use the ring system .?
Great video!
Thank you.
Please review Safe by Hub6! Thanks!!
Will the older alarm kit work with the newer system that Ring released (base station, keypad, and sensors)? I am hoping that Ring will come out with a glass break sensor. Thank you
Been waiting for this vidieo
Thanks.
Well that's a fun option! Too bad it doesn't work with the motion sensors yet. Thanks for reviewing this!
Zach’s Stuff - you can if you add a power source for the motion.
I didn’t add my motion sensors because I have pets - no amount of settings will stop them from noticing my dog/cats. I’ll know you got into my house when you go through windows/door. I have Alexa in each room listening for other noises (glass break).
Thank you.
Will this work with an operational ADT wired system? Will ADT allow their wired connections to be used with this Ring retrofit alarm kit?
I love this, i had ADT, this ring set up will be compatible with ADT alarms systems?
great video. I have a question. I currently have a wired system. I did add a couple wireless motion detectors. Will this retrofit kit work with the added wireless motion detectors? Also, Ring says I need to order their base in addition.
You can use motion sensors. You just need a separate 12-18v power supply. It depends on the sensor.
well done!
Revisiting this video... a few questions.. 1) I have 6 zones, one of which is a door / windows. How do I add zone 7, just for the door. Question 2: Do we need to snip off the resistors on the current ADT system. Thanks!
Since it doesn't seem like they want to release window break sensors, would this work if you buy wired window break sensors and run the wires to this retrofit kit, or does it only work with contact sensors? Does it set off the alarm or is it like the Alexa where it just notifies you and you still have to manually set off the alarm?
So if you sign up for the monitoring service, does that monitoring include the retro fit kit? In other words, if the alarm goes off because a burglar broke in. Also, can you use an existing keypad with the retro fit kit?
Can you review the RLC-520? Please
thx for this detail video. i'm curious why you decided to drill hole on old alarm box, vs. punching out the punch hole next to the new hole you drilled.
How about your old alarm system have wired Motion sensors and wireless sensors door and window can it work?
Good stuff. Also, nice job on color coordination with your shirt and lights.
Thank you. :)
Hello there, do you have a work around for the issue with Ring and the outdoor siren?
if the existing alarm system has glass break will it also work with retrofit
will this retro fit disalbe my actual wired siren when triggered ? also how many sensors this retro fit can take ?
How do you hook up the wired Motion detector to the retrofit kit
If you wanted to add glass break detectors on the ring alarm system.... You could use wired glass break detectors and then use the retrofit kit to interface them to the ring system.
Good idea. Thanks.
@Michael Hardwire glassbreak detectors generally run off of 12volts DC power. You would have to check the amp draw for each one along with any other wired powered devices (like motions) to determine if the retrofit kit 12 volt output has enough amps. If it doesn't, you could always power the glassbreaks and motions from a separate 12 volt power source (with sufficient amps).
With the retrofit kit if somebody opens a door does it make the alarm base station go dingdong like it does with the ring wireless sensors?
i have an existing alarm system front and back door have contacts i have a motion sensor and a fire detector and a siren would i be able to use the retrofit kit
Very helpful video...clear and detailed review. Thanks!
Question...your old wired alarm system probably had an outdoor siren. What are you going to use to replace it?
The ring system only offers 3rd party sirens that wouldn’t scare a cat. I know, I have one.
The ring alarm is great but why they haven’t developed a loud outdoor siren is annoying.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again.
Ring have produced their own siren now - lights up at night too (day to dusk function)
@@speedbird737 I don't see that Ring branded siren on Amazon. Can you please provide a link?
@@bomatdaman They pulled it off the US market after a trademark dispute with ADT. No word on whether they will release a new version.
Can I use this to setup a glass break sensor?
I have 48 zones including water bugs, not counting smoke, fire, etc. old nx-8 system with a 595e expander works great. i've been with ring for 5 years and have had 7 or 8 devices replaced (lost count). I wish ring would make an expander and give me one of these to try. I was supposed to be on their beta list but never received any emails from them to test products. ring still has not fixed their motion issue, if it's not resolved by time my subscription is over then i'll have an elite with 3 chimes for sale lol.
Wow that’s a lot of zones..
You should be able to wire some of the zones to be in series in the box to reduce the total number of zones
How do you wire the wired motion sensor?
I have 6 existing hard wired zones. Is it worth doing the retrofit kit if I pay to have it installed or even if I try to install it? If I don't do the retrofit kit, I understand you have to deal with batteries but don't you also get the replacement warranty on everything if you have ring protect plus or pro?
I am sure you have probably already set it up however will give information to others. In the ADT older systems you will see a resistor on one side of sensor wire which goes on the zone #, the other goes to "C". If you have glass break or motion sensors, they require what is referred to excitation voltage which I just used the ADT voltage. I don't use the battery backup. If the ADT power supply fails, the zone's with voltage will show open. In this case you can find a 15v power supply as noted in the ADT panel.
will this work with step detectors
Can this be used for motion sensors as well?
If I have 2 windows in 1 bedroom, can I connect them together into 1 zone into the retro fit kit?
Yes you can..just connect them as 1 channel..
Will this work for pre existing ADT wireless with cellular and back up battery as well? Probably not but curious. Thanks.
The Retrofit kit is only meant to connect existing wired sensors into the Ring Alarm system. If you desired to keep your existing ADT system, what would you need the Ring system for?
Soooo are the wires from the old box completely disconnected ?
I do like the ability to know which window in a zone is being opened. That would seem to be the only downside here.
Yes, it can only be by the zones.
If you want that, then you have to break down the zones. My front and garage door were one zone - I want them to be separate so I separated them. Same with my patio door, it’s wired with all the living room windows - I don’t want to use the wired sensor for this door because it always has to be closed to arm. I’m separating that one wire from the cluster so I can use Ring’s wireless sensor so I can arm the door in open/closed position with a second magnet.
I also am going to separate my dining room window from the bedrooms cluster. Just because it annoys me that it was group with them. :) each ring retro kit handles 8 zones so it you have more than 8, you have to buy another retro kit.
@@nosirrahm If I have 2 windows in 1 bedroom, can I connect them together into 1 zone into the retro fit kit?
STEPHEN Souto - are they in one zone on your current wired system? Then, yes - you’re just moving the zones over as currently wired. If not, you can join the two wired sensors together to make a zone.
I thought I had successfully installed the Retrofit kit, but then it shows all the sensors and even the Retrofit kit as "tampered" how do I fix this?
I replaced pre-existing alarm key pad with Ring Key Pad X 2. I used black & red wiring (2 of 4 lines) on pre-existing keypad to power Ring Keypads (with adaptor). New Ring keypads are charged and "online." Once the RetroFit is installed, I presume I have to include the keypad wiring from the pre-existing alarm system into the the RetroFit system? Is this correct? Or is power to new Ring keypads powered through pre-existing alarm system exclusively and independent of RetroFit? Txs. Let me & others know!
OK. After thinking about it, I'm going to answer my own question. No need to attach Ring Keypad sensors to Retrofit hub. Power required for sensors drawn from pre-existing alarm system and not (battery operated) Retrofit. Duh....
Will this retrofit kit work with the existing alarm panels? Example, if I arm the system from my phone, does the panel on my wall also show it as armed?
No, the old alarm panels no longer get used.
With the Ring sensors you can trigger Alexa routines. An Alexa routine turns on some lights (Smart things) when the front door sensor is triggered at night. Is this true for the retrofit 'zones'?
Yes it can but it will be by zones...(zones can have multiple sensors on it) unless you can isolate a sensor (front door) and add it as a separate zone.
Ok, thank you.
Can you connect more than one Retrofit Alarm Kit to the Ring Security system? I have more than 8 wired devices that I need to connect to my system.
Yes, it supports multiple Retrofit kits. Unless you want to know the status of each individual sensor, you can combine sensors to make a "zone", like 2 windows in the same room, and possibly only need one kit.
Will it work for existing glass breaks that are wired?
It will not work for sensors that needs power..
I want to install the retrofit kit but my wires are short in the panel (they were never set up) what type of cable I can use to extend the wires? Thanks
20awg door bell cable works fine
I've recently bought a house with pre installed alarm system. If my house has 15 windows (each with its own sensor), would I need to install 2 retrofit alarm kit? (Since only accept 8 zones). How does it work? Thanks
You could combine the windows in a room or zone in series and have, for example, 2-4 windows on each zone, getting down to 8 or fewer zones overall.
@@andrewdiamond2697 thanks for the explanation. Helps a lot
There are enough utube videos on "electricity" that anyone can "do it". A mini-lesson. It is safe to lick the 9VDC battery terminals to see if the battery is good. However, with house wiring, NEVER put the black and white on your tongue to check for voltage. It will not kill you but you probably won't forget when you did it. With 12VDC +/- don't touch the red & black wires together as you will blow a fuse or create a little smoke. The meter is called a multi- meet er :o) I hope this helps someone.
Thanks for the info.
Yes, his pronunciation of multi-meter was strange, I have heard several non-engineers pronounce it mul timeter. glad somebody corrected it.
So you have to pay the monthly monitoring fee?
No necessarily..monthly monitoring is only if you want to have it professionally monitored...you can self monitor and you don’t have to pay any monthly fees.
I’ll stick to Alert360, the monthly bill isn’t too expensive.
Does anyone else have a long chirp delay when you open a sensor with the Retrofit?
0:50 - first time I heard LifeHackster say "Alexa" instead of "Alex-A" :p
He forgot
I think he does it on purpose so that it doesn't activate everyone's Alexa while watching the video.
@@edfig he forgot to this time
@@inhawaii4941 You're right! I missed that. He should always say it the "A" way!
I forgot..sorry
Can you share your desktop wallpaper @1:11
It is the hay hay hay theme..
I bought and returned this due to the privacy issues with Ring. I was really excited to install this but can’t get past the privacy nonsense.
Yesla4Tesla - what privacy issues.
Can you elaborate?
@@nosirrahm if you search google for ring you will see the privacy issues with their cameras. Personally I have removed 4 cameras from my home using them. I was a huge fan of their products till I looked deeper as did the EFF. Thanks to Lifehackster, I replaced the doorbell with the eufy that he reviewed and the other cameras I hardwired cat5 to unifi.
OK, I don’t have Ring cameras. I only have Ring Alarm. So the privacy issues is the possibility of law enforcement being able to use the camera footage. I guess I read too many Police crime books where they always look for neighborhood video footage when solving a crime. If it’s to solve a crime, I’m really not going to cry too much over privacy. 🤷🏽♀️
The alarm should not give you any issues privacy wise..
FYI When you arm your ring alarm all of your Alexa's become glass break detectors
00:50 * alex-a
Oops I forgot..
Man I need something like this but not going with Ring
There were 2 knock outs that you could have used rather than drilling a hole
Wires were too short if I do that..and I don’t want to extend the wires.
Is the retro kit only powered by batteries? It so anyway to hard wire to power? If not, shame on Ring, taking a hardwired security system and having 12 volt DC power there but not taking advantage of it. Even USB power outlet power is fine by me.
Nope. Just the battery. Also, you are basically just using the sensor wires and Ring recommends to unplug the AC power and also remove the backup battery of the hard wire unit..so battery is the way to go on this one and it is low power that the battery will last for at least a year or probably more.
@@LifeHackster Thanks for the reply, I'd just wish the option to never have to worry about a battery was there. Having it be able to power the siren that is wired in the home would be nice too. Also my wired motion sensor needs to have 12 volt DC from the security panel, so I would have to keep that plugged in to power that. Maybe they will come out with a gen 2 like they are with all the other gear. Also I agree, please come out with a glass break detector.
You should be able to solder a 6v toy battery charger onto the Retro Fit unit's +/- battery terminals. But shame on Ring for not offering the option of using the ~18v transformed terminals from the existing panel. While we're shaming, the lack of siren, smoke, carbon dioxide, and motion options is a significant oversight for anyone wanting to make the switchover to Ring. Hopefully, Version 3 corrects those deficiencies.
Ha! :-)
I love how he says multimeter (muhl-tim-i-ter) 1:40 and 2:09 as I have never heard it pronounced this way. Don't ever change Lifehackster!
Edit:
Mere moments after giggling like a school girl and searching the phonetic pronunciation to cut and paste, it slowly became apparent that my Electronic Engineering Technology professors have taught us that the word was pronounced (muhl·tee·mee·ter). Apparently, I am in the minority, and Google believes the American pronunciation is (muhl-tim-i-ter) with the British pronunciation being (muhl·tee·mee·ter). This can't be. How can I, a Floridian have learned such a thing? What have I taught my former students? Am I a fraud? Nothing makes any sense.
My God, everything I ever known has been a lie! I'm so ashamed. :-(
I know... that’s what how my father thought me and seems like google agrees with me..lol
The monotony of his delivery is driving me nuts!!!!!!!!
That ring retrofit kit is a rip off.