How To Change the Oil on Your OBS 7.3 | What Oil Should YOU Run?
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- Опубліковано 23 бер 2021
- Wondering how to change the oil in your OBS 7.3 Powerstroke Ford truck and what oil you need to run? Give this video as I walk through the whole process and discuss different oil weights and types!
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Please keep in mind that oil spec is up to your choice, and it’s always good to back it up with testing. 15w40 is ideal for hot summer temps, or anyone who wants to stick by the manual. For people in mild weather or who want to try something a little thinner, 10W30 like this video is a nice choice. Want oil for yours? Mention my name to Diesel Oil Guy and get a discount on ANYTHING Amsoil!
www.dieseloilguy.com/collections/dodge-ram-trucks/products/6-7-powerstroke-oil-change-kit?variant=32046495891554
Here’s a few links to read more about 10W30:
www.powerstrokenation.com/threads/time-to-try-some-10w30-oil.312177/page-3
bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/2000-ford-7-3l-uoa.203775/
bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/7-3l-powerstroke-uoa-delo-xle-10w30.230456/
ua-cam.com/video/eQh_HeT0xb0/v-deo.html
What is the color name of the dodge? Looks so good! Looking for the same color. It’s perfect not to dark and not to light.
A cool thing about 7.3s is that it’s almost impossible to damage the engine from low oil pressure due to the fact that it runs the fuel injectors, so if there’s no oil the truck won’t run or crank
The earlier idi’s were a mechanical injected motor of which I currently own, so staying on top of leaks, & oil level is a must. I check my stick before I start my truck cuz it burns a tad, & may leak some. Plus I keep 2 extra qts in the engine, so it’s a small “buffer” if I do find a leak. Gotta love an ole PSD, I had a PSD before my current idi.
Nice to see someone taking care of these old rigs and making content. Keep it up
Glad you’re back Andrew 👍
Great video as always! Keep em coming!
Just changed my oil yesterday, nice! I'm sure this vid will help a ton of folks.
The FL-1995 Filter (7.3L PowerStroke filter) works on the IDI engines, as well. Just throwing this out there for anyone who owns an IDI diesel and wants a little extra oil filtration.
Great video, brother! Keep 'em up!
i cannot watch your videos because i get so jealous of your trucks! i have a 97 250 4wd and i’m so jealous of the solid axle and the single cab and ugh such a pretty truck
On the larger oil filters if there is room I always took a center punch to the bottom and make a hole so it drains out the bottom before taking the filter off. Just a lil bit cleaner on the hands lol
Oil weight is determined by the bearing clearance so going against the manufacturers specification is not advised. Using 5w-40 is fine in cold climates because the W stands for “Winter” or atmospheric temp making the oil thinner when cold so it has more viscosity. You want to use a 40 weight oil when warm to provide the correct lubrication and “cushion” to the bearings. Especially since the injectors use a high oil psi to fire and any “thickness” helps. If your injectors are showing age or issues I recommend Archoil 9100 and personally have cured my injector stiction issues with it.
I’ve had good luck with shell T6 5w-40. Makes start ups an ease. Pro tip, punch a whole at the bottom of your oil filter to allow old oil to drain out prior to removing. I use a small screw driver with a mallet
Good idea, I always hated that tilted filter
@@knuttsackjones3094 glad to help. Oil just spills everywhere if you dnt find a way to drain that filter.
Just a little hint on the oil filter if you don't mind. If you take a slightly long straight edge screw drver and hammer. Jab a hole in the lower edge of the oil filter and let it drain. It will make less mess.
I'm switching from Shell Rotella to Schafffers oil (15w40 in the summer and 5w40 in the winter) and installing a FS2500 oil bypass kit.
Cool video
Beautiful truck. I’ll build one after I finish my 7.3 van.
I love the power stroke vans, what are you doing to yours?
@@TheBadSeed3094 I rebuilt the turbo and installed the wicked wheel, went through the valvetrain, did a 4 inch turbo back exhaust, and have been getting the parts together to 4wd convert it. Want a roof rack, awning, winch bumper and the whole works. For camping and carrying moto bikes
I like to thread an outside dry filter on with dry gloves entirely by hand til snug THEN give it a tiny turn with the wrench (personally I tend to overtighten if I use a wrench for 10 turns) maybe thats just me
Thank you
I have a 96er....been using Delo 15-40 for the last 250k miles...no problems....
I have been running rotella 15w40 with hot shot stiction eliminator for a couple of oil changes. The stiction eliminator works. I’m thinking of switch to amsoil with hot shot stuff.
Schaeffers 15 40 in mine year round in Oklahoma with Archoil Additives, I use a Amsoil EA099 Filter or a Donaldson 7405 filter . If it gets below 25 degrees I go ahead and plug mine in tho so the cold start wear doesn’t happen.
Im sorry but i had to cringe at oily hands putting on a nice clean new filter.... Otherwise a great video for those who haven't changed the oil in their 7.3. I second the guy who said to poke a hole in the bottom (or top, depending on how you look at it) of the old filter with a screwdriver and hammer to drain before removal. I usually punch the hole off center so I dont hit the threads, and removal on my 7.3 is clean and effortless with a strap wrench. EDIT: I realized an hour or 2 later that you did not siphon and replace the engine oil in your HPOP. Mine is always dirty and I cant fathom starting my truck knowing if I dont replace the HPOP oil that it will contaminate the fresh oil I just put in the crankcase. I recommend anyone with a 7.3 Powerstroke look into this, hope you include that if you ever revisit this topic in the future.
I’ve been told not to fill the oil filter from the center hole and fill the outside holes
A good hack, take a punch and punch a hole in the bottom of the filter it drains it pretty fast. the walls of a oil filter are super thin. helps me a lot doesn’t make a huge mess just make sure to punch at the lowest point of the filter
I run a factor Mopar filter on my 1990 dodge Cummins with 290k miles and shell rotella 15w-40
Same but I have a 02 7.3 78k miles
Rotella is dam good oil. Run in big rigs for 30 years 👍
I'm worried about the first oil change I did (97 f350 7.3) and it does not seem like it took as much oil as the specs say it is supposed to. I did fill the oil filter just like you suggested first before adding to the crankcase and I changed the HPOP oil but It just seems like I didn't put quite as many quarts in as recommended. Is it safe to say that regardless if the oil on the dipstick shows as being halfway up the filled mark on the dipstick that it should be fine? I mean it runs good and the oil pressure on the gauges says that it's working but with the amount they recommended I actually had to dump some oil out to get it to the right level.
What’s interesting is that you’re using exactly what the 2020 Powerstroke calls for...10W-30.
I run the 5w-40 full synthetic in my 2020, it's much better for it
My dad uses shell rotella 15-w40 heavy duty diesel oil
@@Blue_Flame_Raptor It's much better to run what the engineers designed the engine to run on.
@backwoodsracer0383 is the 10 /40 ok to run ? Not sure what these numbers mean ....I think the 10 mean the thickness...
@@89Aytenaccording to the Ford owners manual for the newer powerstrokes it does recommend 10w-30 in normal conditions, unless you’re running in severe duty or towing a lot the recommendation is 5w-40. The Nissan Titan with the Cummins has the same recommendations.
15w40 vs 10w30 in the summer in Cali get 110f/115f towing ?
what oil filter part number did you use?
I always just hand tightened my oil filter on Cummins and there tight coming off
I might be able to pick one of these up soon for real cheap, but will need a fair amount of work. Really wanna get into diesels and working on trucks . Can anyone recommend me a guide/repair manual to learn and troubleshoot working on one of these ? It’s a 96 , appreciate any help
Is 5/40 synthetic ok? I’ve a 99 7.3
Hey man I know this video is a little old so i understand if you don’t reply but i’m just wondering what mpg do you get in ur 7.3, really trust ur advice cause you have very well maintained ur 7.3
It really varies based on driving, but typically around the 17-19 mark with highway driving at 70 and under.
I’ve got a ‘97 F350 Dually 4 Door with exactly 76,000 miles on it. I know the mileage is correct cause I bought it new : ) Filled it up today from strictly in town driving and got 15. Hwy is upper teens driving upper 60’s.
what about fuel filter and air filter?
Just to add my 2Cents: Yes, the oil system (including the HPOP) is a recirculating system. However, the 1 Quart left in the HPOP should be Sucked out and replaced. There will still be 2 Quarts (1 in each head) that can't be replace. I always take the extra 5min to replace the HPOP. Remember, remove as much of the oil as Possible. These 7.3 (the only TRUE Power Stroke) trucks LOVE clean oil!
What do you use to remove that oil? Does it not get replaced with the new oil during engine operation?
@@317808941 I use a cheap Vac with bottle that I hook to an air compressor. I got mine at Harbour Freight for cheap. I believe they sell it as a Brake Bleeding system.
To refill I use a old empty gear oil bottle. Cut the bottom off, clip the spout end (but not to much or it won't fit in the hole) and use that as a funnel.
You definatly want to fill the resivor before start. It not only lube the gears of the HPOP, but the oil is what provides the hydraulic pressure the the injectors for start up.
Thank you!
I would just run rotella 15w40 and Arch oil every once in a while
Rotella is dam good oil. Been running it in big rigs for 30 years 👍
I know it's off topic. But I have to ask. If I could find a good 12 valve head,timing case,timing gears and injection pump. Is it possible to convert a 2000 24 valve to a 12 valve?
I ask cause i know the injector lines for a p pump 24 valve conversion aren't real great. And Id like to be able to go to the parts store to be able to get the parts. Not have to custom make or order anything
I’ve definitely seen P-pump 24vs and that’s likely the best route due to the increased efficiency with the additional valves.
Check out bill from power stroke help he's got older vids of the 7.3 that are informative. I got a 97 F-450 with 118k.
I change my oil and fuel filter every 3k period.
You're wasting time, money, and oil
Hi I just bought a 97 7.3 turbo dump truck not sure if it needs oil change but going to so should I change to synthetic oil like your using? Also if I go synthetic do I have to stay synthetic all the time? Tha k you
Synthetic oils are usually best in heui systems, I don’t see how changing between syn and conventional is harmful but I also don’t see why you need too. If you run t6 15w40 just keep using or if you use t4 just keep using it. I will be switching to t6 15w40 next oil change.
10w30 syn blend hdeo
Year round
Does the pre-powerstroke 7.3 idi (1992) use oil for opening the injectors? If not, no reason to change oil weights?
The idi does not use oil for injectors. It uses a gear driven pump
Assume all ur powerstroke vids are interchangeable with the 460?
Except the diesel oil
15w40 John Deere Oil
My ford manual calls for 10-30 diesel oil as does my ford mechanic buddy .
You didn't address changing the oil in the high pressure system that operates the fuel injectors. There are some that say it is critical to use a syringe to draw the oil out of that, then refill it with fresh oil when you do an oil change. Your view?
In my mind that isn’t necessary. These trucks have a massive oil volume, so as long as you have solid filter, a little old oil won’t hurt anything.
How do I find if my 1993 Ford F-250 XLT is a 7.3? I don’t have the owners manual
Open the hood and look! With that year you’d have the IDI diesel which is non-intercooled and different from this.
I got an obs bought a gasser tho. All the expenses in diesel aren’t worth it for me
Smart man.
15 quarts of oil is insane
Did you know there still at least about 3 quarts of oil where the H pump is? The big brass looking guy. Some guys say you should change tho oil in there as well to make the injectors live longer
Yep! Heard that as well. My thinking is that 3 quarts of dirty dilutes into the 3+ gallons of fresh so it isn’t a huge deal. I also never let my oil get that bad so it isn’t like the leftovers are 15k mile sludge or anything!
@@JustDiesels Cummins isx had a secondary drain plug that held a few quarts that wiped engines. Warranty doesn't cover lazynes.
Yep, use a hand vac or rig up a pump to evac the HPOP oil 1qt then replace with fresh oil, start truck and run 5 mins and repeat process. After repeating evac 1 last quart then add an additive for lubricity archoil is excellent. This will help tremendously
After cranking the truck at 9;51 why did the truck surge like that you can hear if you listen sounds like a hissing JUST WONDERING
That’s the VGT turbo doing it’s start up actuation.
@@JustDiesels Is this normal and I have a 96 7.3 can I unplug a plug that is just before the turbo on air intake tube ? Ive seen it done was wondering if its safe sorry dont know what its called Thanks
Easier to pop the filter with a screw driver to let it drain first. The copper washer on the pan should be replaced every changed "every" oil change, not nectary tho
good idea these are really messy
My guy, not all obs have a Huei, not all turbos are psd!!
Your forgot to mention that when you put the new filter up there with you slick oil covered gloves you want to drop the whole fucking filter in your dirty oil pan and make a huge mess
That's why I won't by a Ford diesel pricey oil change.
First
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I have a 12v cummins....ill stick with my 5w40 rotella...besides id sooner trust a canook from Canada and his opinion esp since hes a diesel guy and has cummins with over a million miles on them with nothing but rotella and Lucas oil additives and the million plus mile engines still have the cross hatches on the cylinders...to me amsoil is over rated...just my opinion..
So 5w40 is fine in the 7.3?
@@rogerl8488 of course...as long as the second number being 40 weight is the same your good... 5w meaning the winter/cold weight just means it'll get to the bearing n flow sooner then the thicker would...and 40 is the weight it flows as once engine reaches operation temperature
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