I appreciate this video, it helped me just replace my own pump. I took notes as I went, so here are some free work instructions for those interested =) 1) unplug unit 2) remove water container, drip tray, portafilter, and tamper 3) Removed hopper from top of machine 4) Removed burr grinder once hopper is off 5) Unscrewed two screws (one by hot water outlet, other inside tamper comartment) and 5 screws behind where water tank normally is to remove top plastic 6) Once the top plastic off unplug the two wires underneath at their connector to fully remove the top plastic piece 7) Remove one small screw near the water inlet under a small plastic cap that you'll have to pry off 8) Remove the entire back plastic piece of the Brville (hardest part in my opinion, it takes some committed prying. There are 4 plastic hinge/clips that need to pop off. I snapped one of the lower ones, in the end it didn't matter much) 9) The guts of the unit should be exposed now. Unplug line, nuetral wires (blue, yellow) from the pump (faston connectors) 10) removing staking compound (white goop) from thermal fuse (the thing on the side of the pump) 11) remove thermal fuse from pump. don't cut any wires. Just slide it off 12) above the pump there is a T junction of tubing. Removed the pin at top of the T to disconnect the smaller hardline tubing. Be careful to keep the orange O-ring inside the top of the T in place 13) cut the ziptie and unplug the tub connecting the left side of the "T" 14) cut the ziptie and unplug the tube at the outlet of the flow rate sensor (its the thing water flows through after the tank but before the pump) 15) unplug the red/green/white trio of wires connecting to the flow rate sensor and move them out of the way, it will help get pump out 16) Unscrew 4 screws, 2 at top and 2 at bottom, of the vibration mounts holding the pump in place. The screws are captive and will stay with bracket. The pump should now be able to be removed carefully 17) The old pump will come off with the "T" tubing still attached at the top. Unscrew it and be careful to keep orange O-ring inside the top of the T 18) slide off the top vibration mount from old pump 19) cut zip tie at inlet of old pump and removed this small, 90-degree inlet tube 20) slide off bottom vibration mount from old pump --- start of re-assembly 21) slide top vibration mount onto top of new pump 22) the replacement pump should come with two small o-rings/gaskets. Put them into the new pumps outlet tubing before screwing in the old T junction 23) screw on old "T" tubing onto outlet tube of new pump. The 2 o-rings added should help create good compression on the last ~2 turns of the T 24) slide bottom vibration mount onto new pump inlet side 25) replace the pump inlet tube on the new pump, secure with small zip tie 26) screw new pump back into place with the 4 captive screws, 2 per vibration mounting bracket 27) reconnect the inlet tube at the flow rate sensor side and secure with zip tie 28) reconnect the tube at the "left" side of the T junction at the pump outlet, secure with ziptie 29) plug the existing 2 power wires in to new pump (blue on right, yellow on left) 30) put thermal fuse back up into pump like old pump had. had to lightly pry open the opening while inserting it, very snug fit. Optionally secure with RTV 31) plugged flow sensor 3-wire cable back into flow sensor. Optionally stake down with RTV --- time to test the pump. It needs to be primed with water before use. This video and other videos on youtube miss this. 32) cut the ziptie and unplug the hose at the connection point to the water tank 32) Use a 20ml/cc syringe (avail on Amazon for cheap) and pump in water until you see it flow out of the top of the pump at the top of the T junction which should still be exposed/unconnected to anything. You will feel decent resistance before water makes it through the flow rate sensor, through the motor, and out the other side. Also a good time to check for leaks. 33) If successful, reconnect the small hardline tubing at top of the T at the pump outlet and secure with the original pin holding it in place 34) Everything should be done at this point. Reverse the housing dissassembly steps starting from step 8 and working backwards 35) Plug it in last and give it go, try the steam function and the hot water function to exercise the pump
a little daunting...should I try this? How can I be sure that the pump is the reason nothing happens on my machine? It DOES get warm but nothing comes out. struggling for a while to "pump" but I would give it a wack and it would start! That isn't working anymore.
Absolutely brilliant instructions and videos! Thank you sincerely for saving me ~$700 on a new unit! In addition to a failed pump, I also had a leak in the main water line from the pump to the heating element. I realized this after seeing residue on the rubber pump bracket and on the side of T valve. Placed an additional O-ring in the valve and sealed up well. One thing I screwed up initially was forgetting the spring (with plastic bulb) in the stem retainer. Again, thank you for your incredible assistance - your videos are awesome!
Yes, you can see one such video towards the bottom of this playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLpY2FP1a9tisyIfKjSugexoVK01xQuptv.html These are also rebuild kits available, see my photo album, link in the video description.
@The4Crawler Same machine here. Creating zero pressure to the group head. I've ran the tests with the dual wall basket and cleaning disc inserted for backflush, and still no pressure. When pulling a shot only the top of the espresso puck gets wet and no water comes through the bottom of the basket. Should I replace the Solenoid block first, or does this seem like a pump issue?
Check out this video and the pinned comment for troubleshooting ideas: ua-cam.com/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/v-deo.htmlsi=DTN6ieOZlvkHToPO If water is flowing to the hot water / steam and/or to the drip tray, pump is likely OK and the 3-port solenoid is either clogged (run multiple descaling cycles) or open it up to clean and test it (see video on this in this playlist) and/or replace it. Could also be electrical, the solenoid coil could be defective (see link to photo album with testing information in the pinned comment) or the drive circuit on the main circuit board is defective.
I have a question as I am steaming there is a louder pulsing noise in the back that you don't normally hear and when you hear it stops the steaming process I had one before this and it did the same thing and it was replaced under a warranty but 12mths on this one is doing the same thing do you think it would be a pump issue or a steam issue doesn't seem to effect the shot side of things
Not sure, I don't use my steam wand very much and never experienced that issue. It may be getting clogged inside, so a descaling cycle or two run through the steam and hot water side might help. Otherwise, see if you can pop the back cover open and peek inside (be careful as there are live, exposed electrical connections) and see if you can see where the water might be going. Perhaps it's going through the over pressure valve and into the drip tray. If so, that valve might be set too low or it might have some debris in it causing it to leak water/pressure.
my machine when I turn it on I don't hear the pump and just appears on the display the message “fill tank”, I tried to move the magnet on the back but nothing happened.
I guess this must be a newer machine or different model. Mine has no sensor for the water tank. I would look into what senses the tank water level and see if that part is working or not. Maybe try disconnecting and reconnecting the wires for that sensor (with the machine unplugged) and see if that helps.
@ R Brown thanks for posting these videos. I have a BES870XL. My original problem was no water to the group head (steam wand & water spigot still worked fine). I have now replaced the solenoid valve assembly; I have water coming through the group head again but now there is nothing from the steam wand or water spigot - it all comes out the group head. I have also replaced the pump while I was at it but still have the same results. I put the original Olab solenoid valve assembly back on just to make sure there are no obstructions & it went back to the original problem of no water to group head (but steam wand & water spigot work again). I did notice a constant buzzing noise coming from the new CEME 3 way solenoid when it is plugged in. Any ideas or suggestions?
Buzzing solenoid means it's #1 getting power to the coil and #2 it's not fully opening: ua-cam.com/video/yYJRQu3ZUik/v-deo.html Hot water flows up though the normally open top port of the 3-way valve to the manual valve. Simple check is to unplug that solenoid coil and see if hot water works. If so, there's an issue with the 3 way valve. Maybe the coil on the Ceme valve is the incorrect voltage, check the rating. You could try swapping the Olab coil onto the Ceme valve and see if it fits and if it works any different. Or try opening up the Olab valve and see if you can clean it to make it work properly, there's a video in this playlist on doing that.
@@The4Crawler I opened the Olab valve & cleaned. I thought for sure that was going to do it because it seemed stuck when I first opened it. Put everything back together & have the same issue. Also swapped the CEME & Olab coils - still no water from group head with Olab & then no water from steam wand/hot water spigot with CEME. Maybe the CEME is rated too high? Not sure what to compare on the 2 to know for sure - I have a pic of the 2 side by side but can’t seem to post that on here. Anyway, with the CEME coil on, I notice a lot more of a spark when plugging the machine back into the wall
@@petersheehan7450 Coil should be marked with the voltage and the power (watts or volt-amps "VA") rating. I found the Ceme coil was a bit higher VA rating than the Olab like 14VA vs. 10.5VA. Not a lot but makes for a stronger magnetic pull to pull the valve open better: photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59 No coils should be getting power when the machine is first plugged in or even in hot water/steam mode. Only time they should be on is in espresso mode, firs the 3-way runs then at the end of the cycle, the 2-way valve runs for 30 seconds to drain off excess pressure in the machine. One test would be to disconnect one power connection on the 3-way valve coil and then see if hot water/steam works. That will keep the 3-way valve closed and water should only flow up to the hot water / steam valve.
In my case the machine turns on, but doesn't make the buzzing noise the pump usually makes on start up, AND the grinder does not work (I have thoroughly cleaned it). All the indicator lights turn on and the machine warms up, but no grinder, brewing, steam, or hot water. Because of the grinder also not working I'm not sure if it's worth trying to replace the pump?
Make sure the grinder burr and bean hopper is fully seated and that the interlock switch is closed. That can prevent the machine from working, although it usually results in a flashing light. If you have the ability to check voltages, you can test the connections on the pump and solenoid valves (see the video in this playlist where I add indicator lights) and see if they are getting power or not. If not, it might be some bad connections to the main circuit board or that board may need replacing: photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59
@@The4Crawler thanks for the lightning fast reply! I'm pretty sure I got the grinder reassembled correctly - the issue actually started before I took it apart to clean it out. I have just a cheapo multimeter but I'll take a look at the video you mentioned and the photo gallery and give trouble-shooting this thing another go!
@@SteveUrban Here's that video: ua-cam.com/video/9cC-m3a-oXY/v-deo.htmlsi=_-nEMWQbSwF1a0ti Might also be worth re-seating all the connectors at the pump and solenoid valves, in case they've oxidized or loosened up over time.
@@The4Crawler I did remove and reseat all the connecters I could get to with just the rear panel removed (and you were right - reconnecting the gasket for the water tank was a major PITA 😅). From the video though, I'm not 100% sure which terminals to check whether or not the solenoids/pump are getting power...
Thank you for the great videos on replacing the solenoid and pump! I installed the new one and it solved my problem with the noise and water flow problems to the group head, hot water and steam wand. Upon taking it all apart, everything was clean with no corrosion or gunk. However now there appears to be a leak at the back left bottom which also drips into the storage compartment. The drip appears to come from the screw holes from the inside compartment as it pools below the tubes/pump etc. and then drips into the below compartment or onto the counter. I have tightened up all the zip tie connections as well as the solenoid assembly and the safety valve connection at the top of the pump (yes, I followed your instructions in the video about putting the seal back onto it). After drying up the slight trace of water on the bottom of the inside, I have run the group head and steam functions and cannot see any leaks/spray/drips. It only seems to leak when I reinstall the back cover. Could the back cover be pressing the safety valve assembly on top of the pump even though I have configured it at the 45 degree angle to avoid the solenoid? Is it possible to over-tighten zip ties or threaded valves? I was so excited to fix the original issue with the pump but now I'm stumped about the persistent leak. Any help would be great!
That may be the case with the back putting pressure on something when it's put on. Try making small adjustments to the oprientation of the parts so that they don't move when the cover is reinstalled. Try twisting the various hose connections back and forth and see if they'll seal up. On any of the threaded connections, you might also try adding some Teflon thread tape to see if that helps.
@@The4Crawler Awesome! Thank you so much for the advice AND the very prompt reply! I used some tape on the threads of the valve connection at the top of the pump. I’ll try wiggling the tube connections to see if that does it and ensure nothing is contacting the back cover. Thank you again!
Hi ya Rob Thanks for your awesome videos truly appreciate it they are very helpful. But I'm having issues with my machine as I have replaced the pump and solenoids and there is still no water coming out the brew component. When I push cup buttons 1 or 2 the water just goes straight into the tray and have no idea why? Is there something I'm missing or done wrong? Thanks heaps Troy
Hi, I bought this machine about 4 months ago. I pretty happy with, but I always think because it can use pressurized filter they (Factory) adjust the pressure too high. Much far above 9 bars. It's not a good thing because makes it prone to canalization. So seeing you videos I was able to figure out how to solve the problem. It's a matter of add a T connection to the pump inlet and redirect the tube that came from the outlet safety valve to the T connection. And of course seal the remain open inlet collector tank and adjust the safety valve to operate as an OVP valve instead and open when the pressure gets 9 to 10 bars let about 60ml return to pump inlet this way relief the extra pressure likewise the BES900 series machines. English is not my native language and sorry about it . Anyway tank you very much for sharing your videos. I really appreciate! Greetings from Brazil.
Hi Mr. Brown. I did a pump replacement, and now it runs all the time and empties the tank into the drip tray. I have seen forums with others having the same issue. The only solution I have come across is to replace the whole circuit board, but that's a bit expensive. Do you have any idea on how to fix it? Eik
Could be the water flow sensor got disconnected during the pump replacement. Where is it and what does that do? See this video and the pinned comment: ua-cam.com/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/v-deo.htmlsi=fJKCCaL4NjuF4_TT
Thanks so much for these informative videos. I'm hoping I can find a resolution to my problem here. I bought a slightly used BES870XL and water flow, steam wand works but I get no pressure for the 1 cup button and just a little more than nothing for the 2 cup button. I have adjusted the burr setting and the grinder on the side and that has not helped ( I'm assuming that why my friend sold it to me for cheap ). The thing is, I use the cleaning disc on either a double wall or single filter on the 2 cup button and the pressure goes up to the max, sometimes, not every time, but this is the only time I EVER see the pressure gauge move. If i use the 1 cup button with either the double wall or single wall filter and the cleaning disc, the gauge never moves. Again, I have water flow. Which part here needs to be replaced? Thanks in advance for all comments.
The dual wall filters should give some pressure regardless of the coffee grind. Does the machine produce acceptable espresso? If so, maybe don't worry about the gauge. I find the cleaning disc will some times stick down on the bottom of the filter basket and that blocks off the water flow and you get a maximum reading on the gauge. So it sounds like your pump is at least working in some manner. It might be that when blocked, it can produce full pressure, but when there's flow under pressure, like when running a shot, then that pressure drops. I noticed that on my machine and that prompted the pump replacement. The pump can also be rebuilt from what I understand. On the grinder, the ground coffee should have the consistency of regular table salt. See my video in this playlist for checking the grind setting.
@@The4Crawler Thanks for your response. I'm recognizing I may not have watched these videos in order, if they were in order, but I saw a video on the Dezcal packets to descale and I'm trying that first. I ordered the solenoid valve replacement as well and will see if either of those does the trick this weekend. Thanks for all the details in these videos man, I feel like per peoples comments on the Dezcal or the solenoid valve replacement on the ereplacement website one of these will work!
@@selectscents Yes, it could be something clogging a water line to the group head or it could be the solenoid valve not fully opening and blocking off flow to the drip tray that is causing the low pressure.
@@The4Crawler Update. So I replaced the solenoid valve after descaling with Dezcal and the replacement wasn't bad at all. Kept the pump in and everything. But I still have no pressure. Without screwing all things back in I snapped everything together just to see if I got any pressure and nothing........ The one thing I can say I forgot to mention in my first post on this video is that the steam wand works but the hot water steam feature spurts out water where as on my infuser it's a constant stream. I don't know if this is related but I'm wondering what the next step to diagnose is. Could my pump be the problem if I have water everywhere else? Ordered the pump off Amazon. Let’s see if this solves it….
@@The4Crawler Watched this video here ( ua-cam.com/video/DoO9ckyJ-rs/v-deo.html), took out my pump and dissected it. Broken spring is the culprit. It was in 3 pieces. Glad I ordered a new pump!
Dear Mr Brown, thank you for the video, have the bes870 for 5 years now, the pressure gauge stopped to move along with strong noise like you described on the solenoid video also with much slower flow of water from the group head, steam is fine but the water coming out of the tap seems to be mixed with steam.. I took apart the solenoid and cleaned it like you suggested, still no change.. Last thing I have noticed, when I run the "clean me" procedure, the amount of water coming out is maybe 10% of what used to come out when there was no problem..
Open up the back of the machine and take a peek inside while running a cycle to see if you can see where the water is going. Be careful as there are live, exposed electrical connections inside. If you see water flowing out to the diffuser and into the drip tray, it's either the 3-port solenoid not blocking flow out the top or the 2-port valve is letting water out or the over pressure valve is passing water just coming out of the pump to the diffuser.
@@The4Crawler Dear Mr. Brown, Thanks for the prompt reply, The drip tray doesn’t gets the amount of water you would expect to see, it feels like the water is not being pumped out from some odd reason.. I will check your suggestions, and let you know what have I found. Thanks again for your help, Efi Benbassa
@@ebenbassa Might be the inlet water filter between the tank and pump if plugged up or the pump output has dropped. They are re-buildable or you can pick up a new one fairly inexpensively.
@@The4Crawler Dear Mr. Brown, I'm about to give up.. This is after replacing the pump and solenoid kit.. As I wrote, the feeling is that the machine fails to push the water.. Another thing I noticed is that the hot water tap emits steam and not water.. the pressure gauge does not move at all. You wrote about the filter between the tank and the pump, can you please send a link where it is possible to buy it? Thanks, Efi
@@ebenbassa Part number listed below: www.ereplacementparts.com/water-filter-assy-pre-tank-p-629891.html Doesn't seem to be available there any more, but my trick is search for the part number and see what turns up: ua-cam.com/video/lxFlKTBczbo/v-deo.html
Thank you for the video! I replaced the pump in my breville barista pro, but now as long as the machine is plugged in to the outlet the pump is always on, any ideas on how to fix that?
Hard to say. Might want to double check the wire connections at the pump and on the main circuit board. The pump is controlled by that circuit board, so maybe something on it went bad, or perhaps the new pump might have an issue. Might try contacting Breville Support and see if they have any troubleshooting ideas.
I appreciate your videos they are so detailed and provide insight on how all the components work in conjunction. I have a question that I hope you can answer. I have the 870xl and it stopped brewing coffee, but water is still being heated and going out the port at the drip tray. I opened it up and disassembled the solenoids and they don't look gummed up or anything visual. None of the lines to and from the solenoid were clogged or torn. Do you think that this problem could still be one of the solenoids? I would rather have a much more educated and experienced decision, before I buy the solenoids and pump. Thank you for your great videos
The solenoids are electro-mechanical. Check the coils for continuity: photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59 If that's OK, it might be the coils are not getting power from the main circuit board. You can see my video in this playlist on adding indicator lights to the solenoids to check that: ua-cam.com/video/9cC-m3a-oXY/v-deo.htmlsi=YabIH-qBRD7Pohfr
I've not worked with that version machine. If it's like the 870XL I have, check out the video in the playlist on replacing the solenoid valves. I go into opening up the machine in more detail in that video. Otherwise, there's some 800-series repair information on this web page: siber-sonic.com/appliance/breville.html
my coffee machine is making squeaking noises when I press the shot button. Water does not come out of the shot opening, but out of the back. Do I replace the water pump?
Mr Brown, thank you for posting this video. My expresso machine (same model) is making the first shot fine but trips when making the second shot. If I wait for a day or two, I can make another shot. I suspect there is leakage somewhere causing grounding fault. Please advise
Likely you have water leaking inside the machine and that's dripping onto the solenoid coils. That can cause current to flow to earth/ground and trip an RCD/GFCI type breaker/receptacle: ua-cam.com/video/yYJRQu3ZUik/v-deo.html Leave the machine for a day, water dries up and you can run another shot.
Have you ever taken apart the piece behind the grinding cradle? I believe the button in my gridding cradle has stopped sending a single to the grinder when depressed. I’m trying to figure out what piece could have broken.
I've never dug that far into the machine. I suppose first see if you can find the wire/connector that comes from the switch and see if it's plugged into the controller board. All the switch does is send a signal the controller and that't what sends power to the grinder to run, so also check the connection for the grinder. If all that's OK, either talk with Breville support and see if they have any ideas and/or try to access the switch mechanism in back and see what's wrong. It might be ground coffee has gotten inside the mechanism and has jammed the switch open. Listen for the distinct click as you push in that switch. Maybe some compressed air blown in around the mechanism will free it up.
I am tripping the GFCI outlet when trying to pull a shot(yes I tried different a outlet/circuit in kitchen). But its not tripping when using steam or hot water. The pressure is fine, but there is mineral(white corrosion) build up on top of the 3 way solenoid body around the nut, like its got a small leak happening inside of of the body and its coming out the top(the tube leaving the top does not appear to be leaking). Would you suspect that ground fault is happening within the solenoid? is that possible? Thanks for your videos on the XL870 !! Been super helpful.
Yes, likely the solenoid coil on the 3-port valve. That has line/neutral/ground connections and the ground connection is to the center metal part that in turn contacts the metal of the valve body. There could be an electrical connection between the line or neutral connection and the metal of the valve. You may be able to get by with just putting a new coil on and not need to replace the entire solenoid block.
@@The4Crawler Thats what I was hoping. I will follow up once done to let you, and anyone else that hits your post(s), know if it was the solution in this case. Again, thanks for taking the time !
Hello, my pump is a EP5FM and I would like to know what's the difference between mine and EFP5 ? Can I replace it with another model since I can't find it locally ? Thanks.
Hard to say, from this page: www.ulka-ceme.co.uk/E_Models.html the EP5FM model is listed as 240V, vs. 120V for the EFP5. If your machine is a 120V model, then it's likely OK to swap. You can also purchase rebuild kits for the pump portion, assuming the solenoid (big coil of wire) is still OM.
@@The4Crawler Thanks for such a fast reply ! My model is indeed a 120V. Been searching online for what the "M" stands for. I guess it won't hurt the machine if the actual pump is a 46 watts and I will replace it with a 52 watts pump. Maybe the "M" is for a lower wattage, who knows. Thanks again !
Thank you so much for these videos, they have been extremely helpful in diagnosing and attempting repairs. Any thoughts are appreciated. When trying to pull a shot, water spurts over and out the portafilter, pulsing and spewing coffee grounds and water all over. The pressurized basket pulls mediocre (at best) shots without leakage, but the non-pressurized basket spews all over (regardless of grind, fresh beans, etc). Long story short as there were other problems as well: I’ve replaced the gasket/seal, water pump, solenoid assembly, and safety valve. Also checked the thermocoil (heats well), cleaned the inline filter, taken the flow meter apart (pump shuts off appropriately), checked o rings and connections, examined and cleaned out all tubing, checked drip tray for water diversion, descaled twice with citric acid, primed the pump, checked the PCB pullout (nothing looks fried). Thoughts on what might be causing the water to pulse and spew out of the portafilter when trying to pull shots? So much time and parts into this, hate to give up. Thanks!
Hard to say but it might be the safety/over-pressure valve that's on top of the pump, may be popping open and closed causing the pressure variations. You should be able to pop the back of the machine open and watch inside as you run a shot. Be careful as there are live, exposed electrical connections inside. Look for water flowing out of the side of that t-shaped valve and down into the drip tray.
I had this happen to me as well and it turned out that the portafilter basket had a crack in it along the bottom edge. Not sure or not is this is your case but it's worth looking at. It was just a hair line crack.
I have a very similar issue. too much pressure and it spews all over the basket. Have changed the showerhead seal few times, no luck. Were you able to resolve?
I have found that if you put the machine on the edge of a table you can turn the back over and drop it down. It then becomes very easy to access the 2 screws that hold the pipe to the water tank.
Yes, I did that earlier when I changed out the solenoids. While it does work, it's a whole lot easier to just remove the tube from the hose barb. But either way works, just like to try out alternatives.
Thanks for the helpful video. My machine started to sound ragged during the standard initial pump burst whenever the machine turns on. It quickly got worse, until the pump stopped completely. I pulled it out and checked it, and while both top and bottom hoses were off I fired the machine up with the power button. It actually pumped, squirting some residual water around. However, when i reassembled the pump all I got was a faint hum from the pump, and a slow trickle out the top hose when disconnected. Any thoughts?
I've never run into that exact problem, but 2 ideas what's going on. 1. The pump may be clogged. You can find videos on how to open up the pump to check inside. 2. The pump solenoid may not be working. Might be the thermal cutout (the little white thing on the side) may be faulty, the connections might be loose or the solenoid coil may be bad. My 120V pump coil reads about 110 ohms on a multi-meter.
R Brown Thanks for that, I’ll check those things. Mine is a 230 volt model, and at one stage the resistance across the pump terminals was a few Mega Ohms. I tried both polarities, as the pump had a diode symbol on it. I’m wondering if there is some sort of random fault in the coil windings inside the pump, similar to the frustrating similar fault often found with the ignition coil in a small engine. Although, even when it’s not doing the loud pumping action, it still hums and pumps a tiny bit of water.
@@reelMn Yes, there apparently is a diode in the pump, making it turn on and off every half cycle of the AC power waveform. If it's reading very high resistance that diode may have failed open circuit. Or if the pump just hums, that may indicate the diode is shorted and the coil is just turning on and staying on, like the coils on the 2 solenoid valves inside the machine.
As in the machine pumps out too much water for a given brew cycle (1-cup or 2-cups)? If so, that can be changed via the Program button. I think the way it works is that there is a little flow meter between the water tank and the pump. That likely counts up pulses as it spins that is proportional to the water flow. The controller board reads those pulses and uses that to pump out the programmed amount of water for the cycle. It's not terribly accurate and I find my machine varies up and down over time. Easy enough to recalibrate the pumped volume with the Program button as mentioned in the manual: "Re-Programming Shot Volume - 1 CUP Button 1. To begin programming, press the PROGRAM button once. The machine will beep once and the PROGRAM button will begin to flash. This indicates the machine is in programming mode. 2. Press 1 CUP button to start espresso extraction. Press 1 CUP button again once desired volume of espresso has been extracted. The machine will beep twice to indicate the new 1 CUP volume has been set."
R Brown Yes even after resetting the program button to the default extract volumes or trying to set new presets. For example I will select 2-shot volume and the machine will extract until I manually stop it. I’ve seen it go for up to a minute when trying to diagnose the problem.
@@Evilla00 Have heard of others having a similar issue with some mixed results on fixing the issue. A long press on the buttons will make it run a long time. Maybe try a very short press. One other thing to try is unplug machine for an hour or so to see if that resets anything. All the pump and solenoid control is done by the main controller board, so it may be there's an issue with that or possibly with the water flow sensor. If that sensor is perhaps unplugged or not reading out pulses, the controller won't know how much water is being pumped. Might be worth contacting Breville support and see if they have any ideas for troubleshooting.
R Brown makes sense. I will give these a shot! I have contacted Breville support to see if they can offer any suggestions but thought I’d check out UA-cam in the meantime. Thank you for your videos and rapid responses!
Mr.Brown, thank you so much for all you do, I have been getting a lot of good tips out of your tutorials to replace parts for the breville express. One question though..I have already replaced the solenoid valve twice but as of late, the pressure gauge keeps moving up and down during extraction. Also if my grinds are slightly fine, it would just shoot up then it would fail to maintain the pressure and it begins to decline. Do you think it's the issue with the pump ???
Hard to say. If the pressure does go up at the start, that says the pump is capable of putting out the indicated pressure. But then something is causing the pressure to fall. Could be the coffee in the filter basket is breaking up and creating a channel through it that lets water flow easier w/ less pressure drop. The pressure on the gauge is caused by the resistance to water flow in the system, not directly by the pump. I would work with the grinder setting, amount and tamping to make sure that's all dialed in. Or try the dual wall filter basket, that should maintain a steady, albeit lower, pressure the whole cycle.
@@The4Crawler problem solved ! It was the pump...just replaced it with a brand new pump, although it took a little more time than I thought, but in the end, the pressure is very consistent and it does not fluctuate anymore. In my 6-7 yrs of ownership, so far I have replaced the solenoid twice, and the pump...I dont think the barista express is a bad machine since its DIY friendly.
@@timothyj1706 Glad you got it fixed. Your pressure symptoms were different than what I had, mine was lower pressure all the time. But hold onto the old pump, they are re-buildable. Hope to be making a video on doing that shortly.
@@The4Crawler Mr. Brown, so I kept the old pump after fixing the initial pressure issue that I experienced last year. This time around, my unit started acting weird with very unstable pressure so I replaced it with the old pump ! Ha Thank God I kept the old pump because of you ! You are the man !!!
Machine was a bit over 6 yrs. at the time. I think it was a combination of the pump check valve being a bit worn along with the over pressure valve leaking a bit that led to somewhat lower output pressure.
@@alanh8101 The pump is rebuildable, I did pick up a rebuild kit for mine, just haven't had time to jump into that yet. Was easier to purchase the new pump, install it then repair the old pump as time permits. For the grinder, start in the middle of the range and adjust up or down as needed: ua-cam.com/video/06StqafhHe0/v-deo.html Best to only make one change at a time, up/down in coarseness or up/down in amount. That way you don't overshoot the ideal setting. It may also change with every batch of beans you buy.
@@The4Crawler Thanks very much for info and sure buying new pump way better than rebuilding etc.. So for grinder I shouldn’t change setting right away from factory 6 as they do I believe
I damaged one of the small silicone o-rings, hopefully can get more from McMaster Carr. Not exactly sure what size they are, kind of squishy with the calipers.
I've found your videos so useful. I bought a second hand bes870, and I am trying to replace the pressure gauge. How to achieve this seems to be a mystery. Do you have any recommendations?
Never worked on the gauge myself. You might firs check that the tubing and fitting to it isn't plugged. Here's a video on a different model that talks about replacing the gauge, might be somewhat similar to the 870 model: ua-cam.com/video/tAJ5ETGpL7Y/v-deo.html
Mr. Brown, to mirror so many other comments, I just wanted to give an immense thank you for your videos. I recently replaced the faulty solenoid block assembly in my 2019 Barista Express 870XL, which fixed the deafening buzzing and improper pre-infusion. Unfortunately, a new problem has arisen and I suspect the safety valve is the culprit, or less likely, the vibratory pump. During the brew process, the pressure will build to a peak, then stop and start over and over, needle jumping / fluctuating quickly between high pressure and no pressure. I have a new vibratory pump arriving today, but unfortunately there are no safety valves in stock anywhere, and no information whether this item will be returned to stock. I'd hate to have put all this work and around $100 in parts to have to ditch the machine over a darn safety valve! My question for you: do you think there are any methods to clean/fix my existing (likely faulty) safety valve? Obviously not ideal, but anything to keep this machine chugging along would be appreciated! Thank you so much for your time!
Not much to the safety or overpressure valve. A small ball and a spring with an adjustable preload screw. Take note of where the screw is set and try unscrewing the end (count turns) and run some clean water through, maybe something is stuck where the ball seals off the opening. Then turn the adjuster back in and if needed, try turning it in farther. Or look up videos where folks have retrofit adjustable brass overpressure valves (OVP) to allow for better pressure control.
R Brown thanks for the prompt response! I hope I’m not taking too much of your time; I have no steam coming out of my steamer wand, but the hot water nozzle works fine. Could it be clogged if so, how do I unclog it?
Hey thanks for the great video. I trie to order the safety valve from your king of Amazon and seems like it’s out of stock. Would you recommend any other site that I can order from
Yes, have heard that part is out of stock many places with the recent supply chain issues related to the lagerlurgy. Best to just keep checking around on eReplacementparts.com, ebay.com, amazon.com and even contacting Breville support (get the p/n off one of the other sites) and see if they have that part in stock.
Hello, I have a suggestion. Water pressure gauges don't cost much. Might you get one and hook it up to the pump? That would show what shape the pump would be in. I have seen the hookup to the gauge that comes with the unit, but might be hard to connect to a gauge without the Breville hookup.......just an idea.......
@@The4Crawler In the video, that is how I thought I'd do it. But then realized that a gauge is a bit better than how far the water shoots.... I would think, too, that hooking it up to a gauge, you'd be able to test/set the safety valve setting, also.....
Sure I suppose. But that's $600 for a new machine or $32 for a new pump plus a bit of time to replace it. If you sent it in for repair at Breville, you're looking at about $300 for their flat rate service including shipping both ways.
My strategy is to look up the part number here: www.ereplacementparts.com/breville-bes840-infuser-espresso-machine-parts-c-116052_116055_187836.html The plug that part number into a web search and see what turns up. If that doesn't work, try searching for the solenoid part number, likely made by Olab.
I appreciate this video, it helped me just replace my own pump. I took notes as I went, so here are some free work instructions for those interested =)
1) unplug unit
2) remove water container, drip tray, portafilter, and tamper
3) Removed hopper from top of machine
4) Removed burr grinder once hopper is off
5) Unscrewed two screws (one by hot water outlet, other inside tamper comartment) and 5 screws behind where water tank normally is to remove top plastic
6) Once the top plastic off unplug the two wires underneath at their connector to fully remove the top plastic piece
7) Remove one small screw near the water inlet under a small plastic cap that you'll have to pry off
8) Remove the entire back plastic piece of the Brville (hardest part in my opinion, it takes some committed prying. There are 4 plastic hinge/clips that need to pop off. I snapped one of the lower ones, in the end it didn't matter much)
9) The guts of the unit should be exposed now. Unplug line, nuetral wires (blue, yellow) from the pump (faston connectors)
10) removing staking compound (white goop) from thermal fuse (the thing on the side of the pump)
11) remove thermal fuse from pump. don't cut any wires. Just slide it off
12) above the pump there is a T junction of tubing. Removed the pin at top of the T to disconnect the smaller hardline tubing. Be careful to keep the orange O-ring inside the top of the T in place
13) cut the ziptie and unplug the tub connecting the left side of the "T"
14) cut the ziptie and unplug the tube at the outlet of the flow rate sensor (its the thing water flows through after the tank but before the pump)
15) unplug the red/green/white trio of wires connecting to the flow rate sensor and move them out of the way, it will help get pump out
16) Unscrew 4 screws, 2 at top and 2 at bottom, of the vibration mounts holding the pump in place. The screws are captive and will stay with bracket. The pump should now be able to be removed carefully
17) The old pump will come off with the "T" tubing still attached at the top. Unscrew it and be careful to keep orange O-ring inside the top of the T
18) slide off the top vibration mount from old pump
19) cut zip tie at inlet of old pump and removed this small, 90-degree inlet tube
20) slide off bottom vibration mount from old pump
--- start of re-assembly
21) slide top vibration mount onto top of new pump
22) the replacement pump should come with two small o-rings/gaskets. Put them into the new pumps outlet tubing before screwing in the old T junction
23) screw on old "T" tubing onto outlet tube of new pump. The 2 o-rings added should help create good compression on the last ~2 turns of the T
24) slide bottom vibration mount onto new pump inlet side
25) replace the pump inlet tube on the new pump, secure with small zip tie
26) screw new pump back into place with the 4 captive screws, 2 per vibration mounting bracket
27) reconnect the inlet tube at the flow rate sensor side and secure with zip tie
28) reconnect the tube at the "left" side of the T junction at the pump outlet, secure with ziptie
29) plug the existing 2 power wires in to new pump (blue on right, yellow on left)
30) put thermal fuse back up into pump like old pump had. had to lightly pry open the opening while inserting it, very snug fit. Optionally secure with RTV
31) plugged flow sensor 3-wire cable back into flow sensor. Optionally stake down with RTV
--- time to test the pump. It needs to be primed with water before use. This video and other videos on youtube miss this.
32) cut the ziptie and unplug the hose at the connection point to the water tank
32) Use a 20ml/cc syringe (avail on Amazon for cheap) and pump in water until you see it flow out of the top of the pump at the top of the T junction which should still be exposed/unconnected to anything. You will feel decent resistance before water makes it through the flow rate sensor, through the motor, and out the other side. Also a good time to check for leaks.
33) If successful, reconnect the small hardline tubing at top of the T at the pump outlet and secure with the original pin holding it in place
34) Everything should be done at this point. Reverse the housing dissassembly steps starting from step 8 and working backwards
35) Plug it in last and give it go, try the steam function and the hot water function to exercise the pump
a little daunting...should I try this? How can I be sure that the pump is the reason nothing happens on my machine? It DOES get warm but nothing comes out. struggling for a while to "pump" but I would give it a wack and it would start! That isn't working anymore.
Absolutely brilliant instructions and videos! Thank you sincerely for saving me ~$700 on a new unit!
In addition to a failed pump, I also had a leak in the main water line from the pump to the heating element. I realized this after seeing residue on the rubber pump bracket and on the side of T valve. Placed an additional O-ring in the valve and sealed up well. One thing I screwed up initially was forgetting the spring (with plastic bulb) in the stem retainer.
Again, thank you for your incredible assistance - your videos are awesome!
I love these mechanic videos. I can’t find part 2 & I am about to embark on replacing my water pump !
Should be a card link to that video as well in the end screen of this video, or below:
ua-cam.com/video/46UBebNJ-uo/v-deo.htmlsi=i2QEKLZ61Q9GKm-i
Great video! I followed along step by step and took my time; was about two hours give or take. Thanks for all the info
Glad it helped!
Hi! Is it possible to open and clean the pump like the valves?
Yes, you can see one such video towards the bottom of this playlist:
ua-cam.com/play/PLpY2FP1a9tisyIfKjSugexoVK01xQuptv.html
These are also rebuild kits available, see my photo album, link in the video description.
Great, thank you. Your videos help me a lot, the are so useful!
@The4Crawler Same machine here. Creating zero pressure to the group head. I've ran the tests with the dual wall basket and cleaning disc inserted for backflush, and still no pressure. When pulling a shot only the top of the espresso puck gets wet and no water comes through the bottom of the basket. Should I replace the Solenoid block first, or does this seem like a pump issue?
Check out this video and the pinned comment for troubleshooting ideas:
ua-cam.com/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/v-deo.htmlsi=DTN6ieOZlvkHToPO If water is flowing to the hot water / steam and/or to the drip tray, pump is likely OK and the 3-port solenoid is either clogged (run multiple descaling cycles) or open it up to clean and test it (see video on this in this playlist) and/or replace it. Could also be electrical, the solenoid coil could be defective (see link to photo album with testing information in the pinned comment) or the drive circuit on the main circuit board is defective.
I have a question
as I am steaming there is a louder pulsing noise in the back that you don't normally hear and when you hear it stops the steaming process I had one before this and it did the same thing and it was replaced under a warranty but 12mths on this one is doing the same thing do you think it would be a pump issue or a steam issue doesn't seem to effect the shot side of things
Not sure, I don't use my steam wand very much and never experienced that issue. It may be getting clogged inside, so a descaling cycle or two run through the steam and hot water side might help. Otherwise, see if you can pop the back cover open and peek inside (be careful as there are live, exposed electrical connections) and see if you can see where the water might be going. Perhaps it's going through the over pressure valve and into the drip tray. If so, that valve might be set too low or it might have some debris in it causing it to leak water/pressure.
Looking for a replacement water fitting (straight-through, not elbow) for an 860XL model, as I find no source for this part online. Any suggestions?
my machine when I turn it on I don't hear the pump and just appears on the display the message “fill tank”, I tried to move the magnet on the back but nothing happened.
I guess this must be a newer machine or different model. Mine has no sensor for the water tank. I would look into what senses the tank water level and see if that part is working or not. Maybe try disconnecting and reconnecting the wires for that sensor (with the machine unplugged) and see if that helps.
@ R Brown thanks for posting these videos. I have a BES870XL. My original problem was no water to the group head (steam wand & water spigot still worked fine). I have now replaced the solenoid valve assembly; I have water coming through the group head again but now there is nothing from the steam wand or water spigot - it all comes out the group head. I have also replaced the pump while I was at it but still have the same results. I put the original Olab solenoid valve assembly back on just to make sure there are no obstructions & it went back to the original problem of no water to group head (but steam wand & water spigot work again). I did notice a constant buzzing noise coming from the new CEME 3 way solenoid when it is plugged in. Any ideas or suggestions?
Buzzing solenoid means it's #1 getting power to the coil and #2 it's not fully opening:
ua-cam.com/video/yYJRQu3ZUik/v-deo.html
Hot water flows up though the normally open top port of the 3-way valve to the manual valve. Simple check is to unplug that solenoid coil and see if hot water works. If so, there's an issue with the 3 way valve. Maybe the coil on the Ceme valve is the incorrect voltage, check the rating. You could try swapping the Olab coil onto the Ceme valve and see if it fits and if it works any different. Or try opening up the Olab valve and see if you can clean it to make it work properly, there's a video in this playlist on doing that.
@@The4Crawler I opened the Olab valve & cleaned. I thought for sure that was going to do it because it seemed stuck when I first opened it. Put everything back together & have the same issue. Also swapped the CEME & Olab coils - still no water from group head with Olab & then no water from steam wand/hot water spigot with CEME. Maybe the CEME is rated too high? Not sure what to compare on the 2 to know for sure - I have a pic of the 2 side by side but can’t seem to post that on here. Anyway, with the CEME coil on, I notice a lot more of a spark when plugging the machine back into the wall
@@petersheehan7450 Coil should be marked with the voltage and the power (watts or volt-amps "VA") rating. I found the Ceme coil was a bit higher VA rating than the Olab like 14VA vs. 10.5VA. Not a lot but makes for a stronger magnetic pull to pull the valve open better:
photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59
No coils should be getting power when the machine is first plugged in or even in hot water/steam mode. Only time they should be on is in espresso mode, firs the 3-way runs then at the end of the cycle, the 2-way valve runs for 30 seconds to drain off excess pressure in the machine.
One test would be to disconnect one power connection on the 3-way valve coil and then see if hot water/steam works. That will keep the 3-way valve closed and water should only flow up to the hot water / steam valve.
@@The4Crawler that is exactly what I have: CEME coil is 14 & Olab is 10.5. I will try the disconnect power/hot water test next. Thanks
@@petersheehan7450 There is about 30mA (0,03 amps) difference in current between the 2 coils:
ua-cam.com/video/yYJRQu3ZUik/v-deo.html
In my case the machine turns on, but doesn't make the buzzing noise the pump usually makes on start up, AND the grinder does not work (I have thoroughly cleaned it). All the indicator lights turn on and the machine warms up, but no grinder, brewing, steam, or hot water. Because of the grinder also not working I'm not sure if it's worth trying to replace the pump?
Make sure the grinder burr and bean hopper is fully seated and that the interlock switch is closed. That can prevent the machine from working, although it usually results in a flashing light.
If you have the ability to check voltages, you can test the connections on the pump and solenoid valves (see the video in this playlist where I add indicator lights) and see if they are getting power or not. If not, it might be some bad connections to the main circuit board or that board may need replacing:
photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59
@@The4Crawler thanks for the lightning fast reply! I'm pretty sure I got the grinder reassembled correctly - the issue actually started before I took it apart to clean it out.
I have just a cheapo multimeter but I'll take a look at the video you mentioned and the photo gallery and give trouble-shooting this thing another go!
@@SteveUrban Here's that video:
ua-cam.com/video/9cC-m3a-oXY/v-deo.htmlsi=_-nEMWQbSwF1a0ti
Might also be worth re-seating all the connectors at the pump and solenoid valves, in case they've oxidized or loosened up over time.
@@The4Crawler I did remove and reseat all the connecters I could get to with just the rear panel removed (and you were right - reconnecting the gasket for the water tank was a major PITA 😅).
From the video though, I'm not 100% sure which terminals to check whether or not the solenoids/pump are getting power...
@@The4Crawler I replied too hastily - I see more info on how to test them in the photo album. I will go down that route now.
Thank you for the great videos on replacing the solenoid and pump! I installed the new one and it solved my problem with the noise and water flow problems to the group head, hot water and steam wand. Upon taking it all apart, everything was clean with no corrosion or gunk. However now there appears to be a leak at the back left bottom which also drips into the storage compartment. The drip appears to come from the screw holes from the inside compartment as it pools below the tubes/pump etc. and then drips into the below compartment or onto the counter. I have tightened up all the zip tie connections as well as the solenoid assembly and the safety valve connection at the top of the pump (yes, I followed your instructions in the video about putting the seal back onto it). After drying up the slight trace of water on the bottom of the inside, I have run the group head and steam functions and cannot see any leaks/spray/drips. It only seems to leak when I reinstall the back cover. Could the back cover be pressing the safety valve assembly on top of the pump even though I have configured it at the 45 degree angle to avoid the solenoid? Is it possible to over-tighten zip ties or threaded valves? I was so excited to fix the original issue with the pump but now I'm stumped about the persistent leak. Any help would be great!
That may be the case with the back putting pressure on something when it's put on. Try making small adjustments to the oprientation of the parts so that they don't move when the cover is reinstalled. Try twisting the various hose connections back and forth and see if they'll seal up. On any of the threaded connections, you might also try adding some Teflon thread tape to see if that helps.
@@The4Crawler Awesome! Thank you so much for the advice AND the very prompt reply! I used some tape on the threads of the valve connection at the top of the pump. I’ll try wiggling the tube connections to see if that does it and ensure nothing is contacting the back cover. Thank you again!
Hi ya Rob
Thanks for your awesome videos truly appreciate it they are very helpful.
But I'm having issues with my machine as I have replaced the pump and solenoids and there is still no water coming out the brew component.
When I push cup buttons 1 or 2 the water just goes straight into the tray and have no idea why?
Is there something I'm missing or done wrong?
Thanks heaps
Troy
Hi, I bought this machine about 4 months ago. I pretty happy with, but I always think because it can use pressurized filter they (Factory) adjust the pressure too high. Much far above 9 bars. It's not a good thing because makes it prone to canalization. So seeing you videos I was able to figure out how to solve the problem. It's a matter of add a T connection to the pump inlet and redirect the tube that came from the outlet safety valve to the T connection. And of course seal the remain open inlet collector tank and adjust the safety valve to operate as an OVP valve instead and open when the pressure gets 9 to 10 bars let about 60ml return to pump inlet this way relief the extra pressure likewise the BES900 series machines. English is not my native language and sorry about it . Anyway tank you very much for sharing your videos. I really appreciate! Greetings from Brazil.
Thanks for the information. I might give this a try myself.
That's a Baller move.
Hi Mr. Brown. I did a pump replacement, and now it runs all the time and empties the tank into the drip tray. I have seen forums with others having the same issue. The only solution I have come across is to replace the whole circuit board, but that's a bit expensive. Do you have any idea on how to fix it?
Eik
Could be the water flow sensor got disconnected during the pump replacement. Where is it and what does that do? See this video and the pinned comment:
ua-cam.com/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/v-deo.htmlsi=fJKCCaL4NjuF4_TT
Thanks so much for these informative videos. I'm hoping I can find a resolution to my problem here. I bought a slightly used BES870XL and water flow, steam wand works but I get no pressure for the 1 cup button and just a little more than nothing for the 2 cup button. I have adjusted the burr setting and the grinder on the side and that has not helped ( I'm assuming that why my friend sold it to me for cheap ). The thing is, I use the cleaning disc on either a double wall or single filter on the 2 cup button and the pressure goes up to the max, sometimes, not every time, but this is the only time I EVER see the pressure gauge move. If i use the 1 cup button with either the double wall or single wall filter and the cleaning disc, the gauge never moves. Again, I have water flow. Which part here needs to be replaced? Thanks in advance for all comments.
The dual wall filters should give some pressure regardless of the coffee grind. Does the machine produce acceptable espresso? If so, maybe don't worry about the gauge. I find the cleaning disc will some times stick down on the bottom of the filter basket and that blocks off the water flow and you get a maximum reading on the gauge. So it sounds like your pump is at least working in some manner. It might be that when blocked, it can produce full pressure, but when there's flow under pressure, like when running a shot, then that pressure drops. I noticed that on my machine and that prompted the pump replacement. The pump can also be rebuilt from what I understand. On the grinder, the ground coffee should have the consistency of regular table salt. See my video in this playlist for checking the grind setting.
@@The4Crawler Thanks for your response. I'm recognizing I may not have watched these videos in order, if they were in order, but I saw a video on the Dezcal packets to descale and I'm trying that first. I ordered the solenoid valve replacement as well and will see if either of those does the trick this weekend. Thanks for all the details in these videos man, I feel like per peoples comments on the Dezcal or the solenoid valve replacement on the ereplacement website one of these will work!
@@selectscents Yes, it could be something clogging a water line to the group head or it could be the solenoid valve not fully opening and blocking off flow to the drip tray that is causing the low pressure.
@@The4Crawler Update. So I replaced the solenoid valve after descaling with Dezcal and the replacement wasn't bad at all. Kept the pump in and everything. But I still have no pressure. Without screwing all things back in I snapped everything together just to see if I got any pressure and nothing........ The one thing I can say I forgot to mention in my first post on this video is that the steam wand works but the hot water steam feature spurts out water where as on my infuser it's a constant stream. I don't know if this is related but I'm wondering what the next step to diagnose is. Could my pump be the problem if I have water everywhere else? Ordered the pump off Amazon. Let’s see if this solves it….
@@The4Crawler Watched this video here ( ua-cam.com/video/DoO9ckyJ-rs/v-deo.html), took out my pump and dissected it. Broken spring is the culprit. It was in 3 pieces. Glad I ordered a new pump!
Dear Mr Brown, thank you for the video, have the bes870 for 5 years now, the pressure gauge stopped to move along with strong noise like you described on the solenoid video also with much slower flow of water from the group head, steam is fine but the water coming out of the tap seems to be mixed with steam.. I took apart the solenoid and cleaned it like you suggested, still no change..
Last thing I have noticed, when I run the "clean me" procedure, the amount of water coming out is maybe 10% of what used to come out when there was no problem..
Open up the back of the machine and take a peek inside while running a cycle to see if you can see where the water is going. Be careful as there are live, exposed electrical connections inside. If you see water flowing out to the diffuser and into the drip tray, it's either the 3-port solenoid not blocking flow out the top or the 2-port valve is letting water out or the over pressure valve is passing water just coming out of the pump to the diffuser.
@@The4Crawler
Dear Mr. Brown,
Thanks for the prompt reply,
The drip tray doesn’t gets the amount of water you would expect to see, it feels like the water is not being pumped out from some odd reason..
I will check your suggestions, and let you know what have I found.
Thanks again for your help,
Efi Benbassa
@@ebenbassa Might be the inlet water filter between the tank and pump if plugged up or the pump output has dropped. They are re-buildable or you can pick up a new one fairly inexpensively.
@@The4Crawler Dear Mr. Brown,
I'm about to give up..
This is after replacing the pump and solenoid kit..
As I wrote, the feeling is that the machine fails to push the water..
Another thing I noticed is that the hot water tap emits steam and not water..
the pressure gauge does not move at all.
You wrote about the filter between the tank and the pump, can you please send a link where it is possible to buy it?
Thanks,
Efi
@@ebenbassa Part number listed below:
www.ereplacementparts.com/water-filter-assy-pre-tank-p-629891.html
Doesn't seem to be available there any more, but my trick is search for the part number and see what turns up:
ua-cam.com/video/lxFlKTBczbo/v-deo.html
Mr. Brown, my Breville Mod. 800ESXL. On-Off Switch blink some time is ok. I need your help please.
You might check out the page below for some ideas:
siber-sonic.com/appliance/800Electrical.html
Thank you for the video! I replaced the pump in my breville barista pro, but now as long as the machine is plugged in to the outlet the pump is always on, any ideas on how to fix that?
Hard to say. Might want to double check the wire connections at the pump and on the main circuit board. The pump is controlled by that circuit board, so maybe something on it went bad, or perhaps the new pump might have an issue. Might try contacting Breville Support and see if they have any troubleshooting ideas.
I appreciate your videos they are so detailed and provide insight on how all the components work in conjunction. I have a question that I hope you can answer. I have the 870xl and it stopped brewing coffee, but water is still being heated and going out the port at the drip tray. I opened it up and disassembled the solenoids and they don't look gummed up or anything visual. None of the lines to and from the solenoid were clogged or torn. Do you think that this problem could still be one of the solenoids? I would rather have a much more educated and experienced decision, before I buy the solenoids and pump. Thank you for your great videos
The solenoids are electro-mechanical. Check the coils for continuity:
photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59
If that's OK, it might be the coils are not getting power from the main circuit board. You can see my video in this playlist on adding indicator lights to the solenoids to check that:
ua-cam.com/video/9cC-m3a-oXY/v-deo.htmlsi=YabIH-qBRD7Pohfr
If you have $600 or more yes it's easy but for me I am thankful that he showed us how to change it .
Brilliant! So clear and well paced.
Many thanks!
Hi Mr Brown, could tell me how to open a bs 830 xl. I can't open the upper side of the machine to get to the pump.
I've not worked with that version machine. If it's like the 870XL I have, check out the video in the playlist on replacing the solenoid valves. I go into opening up the machine in more detail in that video. Otherwise, there's some 800-series repair information on this web page:
siber-sonic.com/appliance/breville.html
You can find reusable spring loaded tube clamps to save issues with the cable ties
Sounds like something to look into for next time, thanks for posting!
my coffee machine is making squeaking noises when I press the shot button. Water does not come out of the shot opening, but out of the back.
Do I replace the water pump?
Likely it's one of the solenoid valves:
ua-cam.com/video/96IuKiuIB5A/v-deo.html
@@The4Crawler Thanks for your help!
Mr Brown, thank you for posting this video. My expresso machine (same model) is making the first shot fine but trips when making the second shot. If I wait for a day or two, I can make another shot. I suspect there is leakage somewhere causing grounding fault. Please advise
Likely you have water leaking inside the machine and that's dripping onto the solenoid coils. That can cause current to flow to earth/ground and trip an RCD/GFCI type breaker/receptacle:
ua-cam.com/video/yYJRQu3ZUik/v-deo.html
Leave the machine for a day, water dries up and you can run another shot.
Have you ever taken apart the piece behind the grinding cradle? I believe the button in my gridding cradle has stopped sending a single to the grinder when depressed. I’m trying to figure out what piece could have broken.
I've never dug that far into the machine. I suppose first see if you can find the wire/connector that comes from the switch and see if it's plugged into the controller board. All the switch does is send a signal the controller and that't what sends power to the grinder to run, so also check the connection for the grinder. If all that's OK, either talk with Breville support and see if they have any ideas and/or try to access the switch mechanism in back and see what's wrong. It might be ground coffee has gotten inside the mechanism and has jammed the switch open. Listen for the distinct click as you push in that switch. Maybe some compressed air blown in around the mechanism will free it up.
R Brown very helpful! Thank you!
I am tripping the GFCI outlet when trying to pull a shot(yes I tried different a outlet/circuit in kitchen). But its not tripping when using steam or hot water. The pressure is fine, but there is mineral(white corrosion) build up on top of the 3 way solenoid body around the nut, like its got a small leak happening inside of of the body and its coming out the top(the tube leaving the top does not appear to be leaking). Would you suspect that ground fault is happening within the solenoid? is that possible? Thanks for your videos on the XL870 !! Been super helpful.
Yes, likely the solenoid coil on the 3-port valve. That has line/neutral/ground connections and the ground connection is to the center metal part that in turn contacts the metal of the valve body. There could be an electrical connection between the line or neutral connection and the metal of the valve. You may be able to get by with just putting a new coil on and not need to replace the entire solenoid block.
@@The4Crawler Thats what I was hoping. I will follow up once done to let you, and anyone else that hits your post(s), know if it was the solution in this case. Again, thanks for taking the time !
Any chance you can give me the link to buy the BES870XL water pump? Not sure which one is correct
This is from the video description and was the listing I purchased my 120 volt pump from:
amzn.to/32TNB5E
Hello, my pump is a EP5FM and I would like to know what's the difference between mine and EFP5 ? Can I replace it with another model since I can't find it locally ?
Thanks.
Hard to say, from this page:
www.ulka-ceme.co.uk/E_Models.html
the EP5FM model is listed as 240V, vs. 120V for the EFP5. If your machine is a 120V model, then it's likely OK to swap.
You can also purchase rebuild kits for the pump portion, assuming the solenoid (big coil of wire) is still OM.
@@The4Crawler Thanks for such a fast reply ! My model is indeed a 120V. Been searching online for what the "M" stands for. I guess it won't hurt the machine if the actual pump is a 46 watts and I will replace it with a 52 watts pump. Maybe the "M" is for a lower wattage, who knows.
Thanks again !
@@fiodor94 Have heard of people swapping pumps, although usually a higher wattage for a lower one to possibly reduce a too-high pressure situation.
Thank you so much for these videos, they have been extremely helpful in diagnosing and attempting repairs. Any thoughts are appreciated. When trying to pull a shot, water spurts over and out the portafilter, pulsing and spewing coffee grounds and water all over. The pressurized basket pulls mediocre (at best) shots without leakage, but the non-pressurized basket spews all over (regardless of grind, fresh beans, etc). Long story short as there were other problems as well: I’ve replaced the gasket/seal, water pump, solenoid assembly, and safety valve. Also checked the thermocoil (heats well), cleaned the inline filter, taken the flow meter apart (pump shuts off appropriately), checked o rings and connections, examined and cleaned out all tubing, checked drip tray for water diversion, descaled twice with citric acid, primed the pump, checked the PCB pullout (nothing looks fried). Thoughts on what might be causing the water to pulse and spew out of the portafilter when trying to pull shots? So much time and parts into this, hate to give up. Thanks!
Hard to say but it might be the safety/over-pressure valve that's on top of the pump, may be popping open and closed causing the pressure variations. You should be able to pop the back of the machine open and watch inside as you run a shot. Be careful as there are live, exposed electrical connections inside. Look for water flowing out of the side of that t-shaped valve and down into the drip tray.
I had this happen to me as well and it turned out that the portafilter basket had a crack in it along the bottom edge. Not sure or not is this is your case but it's worth looking at. It was just a hair line crack.
@@OldFriendsandNewRoads Good tip, something to look for.
I have a very similar issue. too much pressure and it spews all over the basket. Have changed the showerhead seal few times, no luck. Were you able to resolve?
I have found that if you put the machine on the edge of a table you can turn the back over and drop it down. It then becomes very easy to access the 2 screws that hold the pipe to the water tank.
Yes, I did that earlier when I changed out the solenoids. While it does work, it's a whole lot easier to just remove the tube from the hose barb. But either way works, just like to try out alternatives.
Thanks for the helpful video. My machine started to sound ragged during the standard initial pump burst whenever the machine turns on. It quickly got worse, until the pump stopped completely.
I pulled it out and checked it, and while both top and bottom hoses were off I fired the machine up with the power button. It actually pumped, squirting some residual water around. However, when i reassembled the pump all I got was a faint hum from the pump, and a slow trickle out the top hose when disconnected. Any thoughts?
I've never run into that exact problem, but 2 ideas what's going on.
1. The pump may be clogged. You can find videos on how to open up the pump to check inside.
2. The pump solenoid may not be working. Might be the thermal cutout (the little white thing on the side) may be faulty, the connections might be loose or the solenoid coil may be bad. My 120V pump coil reads about 110 ohms on a multi-meter.
R Brown Thanks for that, I’ll check those things. Mine is a 230 volt model, and at one stage the resistance across the pump terminals was a few Mega Ohms. I tried both polarities, as the pump had a diode symbol on it.
I’m wondering if there is some sort of random fault in the coil windings inside the pump, similar to the frustrating similar fault often found with the ignition coil in a small engine. Although, even when it’s not doing the loud pumping action, it still hums and pumps a tiny bit of water.
@@reelMn Yes, there apparently is a diode in the pump, making it turn on and off every half cycle of the AC power waveform. If it's reading very high resistance that diode may have failed open circuit. Or if the pump just hums, that may indicate the diode is shorted and the coil is just turning on and staying on, like the coils on the 2 solenoid valves inside the machine.
Would you know what causes this machine to over extract? Lately I’ve been having to manually stop my pulls of espresso.
As in the machine pumps out too much water for a given brew cycle (1-cup or 2-cups)? If so, that can be changed via the Program button. I think the way it works is that there is a little flow meter between the water tank and the pump. That likely counts up pulses as it spins that is proportional to the water flow. The controller board reads those pulses and uses that to pump out the programmed amount of water for the cycle. It's not terribly accurate and I find my machine varies up and down over time. Easy enough to recalibrate the pumped volume with the Program button as mentioned in the manual:
"Re-Programming
Shot Volume - 1 CUP Button
1. To begin programming, press the PROGRAM button once. The machine will beep once and the PROGRAM button will begin to flash. This indicates the machine is in programming mode.
2. Press 1 CUP button to start espresso extraction. Press 1 CUP button again once desired volume of espresso has been extracted. The machine will beep twice to indicate the new 1 CUP volume has been set."
R Brown Yes even after resetting the program button to the default extract volumes or trying to set new presets. For example I will select 2-shot volume and the machine will extract until I manually stop it. I’ve seen it go for up to a minute when trying to diagnose the problem.
This also effects the hot water switch volume. I now have to switch it to the off position in order to make the water stop flowing.
@@Evilla00 Have heard of others having a similar issue with some mixed results on fixing the issue. A long press on the buttons will make it run a long time. Maybe try a very short press. One other thing to try is unplug machine for an hour or so to see if that resets anything. All the pump and solenoid control is done by the main controller board, so it may be there's an issue with that or possibly with the water flow sensor. If that sensor is perhaps unplugged or not reading out pulses, the controller won't know how much water is being pumped. Might be worth contacting Breville support and see if they have any ideas for troubleshooting.
R Brown makes sense. I will give these a shot! I have contacted Breville support to see if they can offer any suggestions but thought I’d check out UA-cam in the meantime. Thank you for your videos and rapid responses!
Mr.Brown, thank you so much for all you do, I have been getting a lot of good tips out of your tutorials to replace parts for the breville express. One question though..I have already replaced the solenoid valve twice but as of late, the pressure gauge keeps moving up and down during extraction. Also if my grinds are slightly fine, it would just shoot up then it would fail to maintain the pressure and it begins to decline. Do you think it's the issue with the pump ???
Hard to say. If the pressure does go up at the start, that says the pump is capable of putting out the indicated pressure. But then something is causing the pressure to fall. Could be the coffee in the filter basket is breaking up and creating a channel through it that lets water flow easier w/ less pressure drop. The pressure on the gauge is caused by the resistance to water flow in the system, not directly by the pump. I would work with the grinder setting, amount and tamping to make sure that's all dialed in. Or try the dual wall filter basket, that should maintain a steady, albeit lower, pressure the whole cycle.
@@The4Crawler thnx sir. I will give that a try again.
@@The4Crawler problem solved ! It was the pump...just replaced it with a brand new pump, although it took a little more time than I thought, but in the end, the pressure is very consistent and it does not fluctuate anymore. In my 6-7 yrs of ownership, so far I have replaced the solenoid twice, and the pump...I dont think the barista express is a bad machine since its DIY friendly.
@@timothyj1706 Glad you got it fixed. Your pressure symptoms were different than what I had, mine was lower pressure all the time. But hold onto the old pump, they are re-buildable. Hope to be making a video on doing that shortly.
@@The4Crawler Mr. Brown, so I kept the old pump after fixing the initial pressure issue that I experienced last year. This time around, my unit started acting weird with very unstable pressure so I replaced it with the old pump ! Ha Thank God I kept the old pump because of you ! You are the man !!!
How come pump went so fast and need to be replaced how old is machine?
Machine was a bit over 6 yrs. at the time. I think it was a combination of the pump check valve being a bit worn along with the over pressure valve leaking a bit that led to somewhat lower output pressure.
@@The4Crawler I’m buying my tommorow and wonder how long pump lasts?
Any tips on grinder best setting
@@The4Crawler That’s really good quality by Breville 6 yrs pretty good 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼better than some high end I seen
@@alanh8101 The pump is rebuildable, I did pick up a rebuild kit for mine, just haven't had time to jump into that yet. Was easier to purchase the new pump, install it then repair the old pump as time permits.
For the grinder, start in the middle of the range and adjust up or down as needed:
ua-cam.com/video/06StqafhHe0/v-deo.html
Best to only make one change at a time, up/down in coarseness or up/down in amount. That way you don't overshoot the ideal setting. It may also change with every batch of beans you buy.
@@The4Crawler Thanks very much for info and sure buying new pump way better than rebuilding etc..
So for grinder I shouldn’t change setting right away from factory 6 as they do I believe
I damaged one of the small silicone o-rings, hopefully can get more from McMaster Carr. Not exactly sure what size they are, kind of squishy with the calipers.
See below if you just need a few:
www.4crawler.com/UA-cam/index.shtml#Orings
I've found your videos so useful. I bought a second hand bes870, and I am trying to replace the pressure gauge. How to achieve this seems to be a mystery. Do you have any recommendations?
Never worked on the gauge myself. You might firs check that the tubing and fitting to it isn't plugged. Here's a video on a different model that talks about replacing the gauge, might be somewhat similar to the 870 model:
ua-cam.com/video/tAJ5ETGpL7Y/v-deo.html
@@The4Crawler thanks! Mine is a little different, but some of the tricks mentioned in that video might work!
Mr. Brown, to mirror so many other comments, I just wanted to give an immense thank you for your videos. I recently replaced the faulty solenoid block assembly in my 2019 Barista Express 870XL, which fixed the deafening buzzing and improper pre-infusion. Unfortunately, a new problem has arisen and I suspect the safety valve is the culprit, or less likely, the vibratory pump. During the brew process, the pressure will build to a peak, then stop and start over and over, needle jumping / fluctuating quickly between high pressure and no pressure.
I have a new vibratory pump arriving today, but unfortunately there are no safety valves in stock anywhere, and no information whether this item will be returned to stock. I'd hate to have put all this work and around $100 in parts to have to ditch the machine over a darn safety valve!
My question for you: do you think there are any methods to clean/fix my existing (likely faulty) safety valve? Obviously not ideal, but anything to keep this machine chugging along would be appreciated! Thank you so much for your time!
Not much to the safety or overpressure valve. A small ball and a spring with an adjustable preload screw. Take note of where the screw is set and try unscrewing the end (count turns) and run some clean water through, maybe something is stuck where the ball seals off the opening. Then turn the adjuster back in and if needed, try turning it in farther. Or look up videos where folks have retrofit adjustable brass overpressure valves (OVP) to allow for better pressure control.
Thanks for these great videos! What kind of lights did you attach to the solenoids?
They are some 120V LED indicator lights, link in the video description below::
ua-cam.com/video/9cC-m3a-oXY/v-deo.html
R Brown thanks for the prompt response! I hope I’m not taking too much of your time; I have no steam coming out of my steamer wand, but the hot water nozzle works fine. Could it be clogged if so, how do I unclog it?
Hey thanks for the great video. I trie to order the safety valve from your king of Amazon and seems like it’s out of stock. Would you recommend any other site that I can order from
Yes, have heard that part is out of stock many places with the recent supply chain issues related to the lagerlurgy. Best to just keep checking around on eReplacementparts.com, ebay.com, amazon.com and even contacting Breville support (get the p/n off one of the other sites) and see if they have that part in stock.
Hello, I have a suggestion. Water pressure gauges don't cost much. Might you get one and hook it up to the pump? That would show what shape the pump would be in. I have seen the hookup to the gauge that comes with the unit, but might be hard to connect to a gauge without the Breville hookup.......just an idea.......
Yes, am working on a video with a pressure gauge. I did test the pump in this video (w/o a gauge):
ua-cam.com/video/z9KGunmnLSI/v-deo.html
@@The4Crawler In the video, that is how I thought I'd do it. But then realized that a gauge is a bit better than how far the water shoots.... I would think, too, that hooking it up to a gauge, you'd be able to test/set the safety valve setting, also.....
WOW 😳 Wouldn’t it be easier to buy a new coffee machine
Sure I suppose. But that's $600 for a new machine or $32 for a new pump plus a bit of time to replace it. If you sent it in for repair at Breville, you're looking at about $300 for their flat rate service including shipping both ways.
From where can I buy the solenoid valves for the bes840?
My strategy is to look up the part number here:
www.ereplacementparts.com/breville-bes840-infuser-espresso-machine-parts-c-116052_116055_187836.html
The plug that part number into a web search and see what turns up. If that doesn't work, try searching for the solenoid part number, likely made by Olab.