Cleaning Solenoid Valves from a Breville/Sage Barista Express
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- Опубліковано 31 лип 2019
- Solenoid testing was done on an isolated bench power supply along with a fused Cliff QuickTest adapter. Extreme care should be taken with this process if you're not experienced with or equipped for this sort of testing:
Isolated bench power supply: • Tenma 72-1098 Isolated...
Cliff QuickTest: • Cliff Quicktest Review...
Be sure to document the way your valves are installed prior to taking them out of the bracket. Mine had a "1" stamped on the 3-port valve facing away from the bracket. Yours may be different, so take a picture or two before tearing things apart. These valves were removed from my Barista Express machine in an earlier video. Similar valves are used in many espresso machines, these valves are the Olab brand.
There seem to be multiple descriptions of these valves, some say 1-way and 2-way, some say 2-port and 3-port. Basically there's one valve with 2 openings or ports and those 2 ports are normally closed with power off and open when power is applied. The other valve has 3 openings or ports and the right to top path is open with power off and the right-left path is open when power is applied. I switch between the port and way nomenclature in the video, but for clarity:
2-way = 3-port
1-way = 2-port
While it seems possible to clean these valves to restore normal operation, I feel the new SP0020446 solenoid valve assembly and the Ceme solenoid valves are much better than the Olab parts. Seems the Olab valves are prone to this sort of issue, some details below:
/ what_could_be_wrong_wi...
coffeegeek.com/forums/espresso...
It seems that a very thorough cleaning is enough to get these valves operating like new. The 3 port valve had a heavy orange/red deposit in it that was causing the metal slug from moving freely. That seems to be related to the buzzing sound as well, as the slug would vibrate on the partially compressed spring. The 2 port valve seemed to have some granular deposits in it that were easily removed in the citric acid cleaner.
For the cleaning solution, I used my homemade Dezcal-like powder mixed about 3-4 times normal concentration, or about 100mL powder per liter of water. To that I added a shot of dish washing liquid detergent for better cleaning and wetting properties. I would soak the parts for a few hours at a time. Remove and rinse the parts and if needed repeat the soaking cycle.
An ultrasonic cleaner would also be useful for this task. I don't own one or I would have used it. The technique shown should be accessible to anyone as all you need is some of the descaling product you normally use in the machine and a small container to hold the solenoid valve part for cleaning.
Not sure what the root cause of this problem is, whether it's the brand or design of the solenoids or something else. I noticed the noise on and off from when the machine was new. It seems Breville has changed suppliers from Olab to Ceme as the Olab based valve assembly is listed as NLA:
spares.bigwarehouse.com.au/pr...
I found a parts manual on-line and it lists:
Part # Description Usage
SP0013665 SOLENOID VALVE - OLAB 9200H - US Pre PDC1630
SP0020446 SOLENOID VALVE - CEME V397VN1.0P(3/2) VERSION A - US/CA From PDC1630
This page mentions PDC1630 as of July 2017, so that may be the date they changed:
dokumen.tips/documents/the-ba...
All the new photos from on-line vendors show the Ceme valves. That at least points in the direction of a design issue related to the Olab parts. The Olab solenoids look like they are well designed but maybe they've been mis-applied in the Breville espresso machine designs.
You're probably looking at US$250 or more to have this repair done at a shop and that may involve shipping the machine there and back. Breville has a ~$250 flat rate repair charge for parts like this.
So it's well worth the time and effort to do this repair yourself.
Solenoid Block:
www.ereplacementparts.com/sol...
Olab 6000-9000 Magnetic Valve 110/120v Breville Bes870xl Barista Express:
www.ebay.com/i/254196181727
The 240V Ceme part number: SP0020440
Check out the next video where I add indicator lights to show how the solenoids are operated:
• Breville 870XL Solenoi...
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And as always, thanks for watching
#breville #bes870 #bes860 #solenoids - Навчання та стиль
My Breville BES870XL will not shut off the water when making the expresso in either the 1 or 2 cups. I tried resetting to the factory settings then when that didn't work I did a manual set. Neither worked. Would my problem be the solenoid?
It could be the 3 port solenoid sticking on. But my guess would be the water flow sensor:
ua-cam.com/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/v-deo.html
If that's not connected or not working properly, the control board doesn't know how much water is passing through the pump and that's what tells it when to shut off a cycle.
R Brown Thanks! I will take a look.
Hey barb, this is a very common issue. Unplug and then replug the water flow sensor (white circle on bottom left). Out of the 3 machines that had this problem, all 3 were fixed by unplugging then replugging
@@TheRedTech98 Great tip, thanks for sharing! Seems to be a common problem with these machines, although one I've not yet run into myself.
Breville is not doing enough to make parts available. They have a third party distributorand as far as getting a new solenoid no one is accountable for getting parts made available - and no one is accountable. You, sir, are the only hope to get my Barista express working properly. Your video has given me the info I wanted to to attempt this repair. THANK YOU
I bought two new valves but I don't know which way the base of them face now. They have a 1 on one end and 2 on the other. Anyone know?
Yes, spare parts could be easier to find. I usually find if I look up the part number on ereplacementparts.com then search for the p/n, you can often find sources. I've also heard that if you contact Breville support, with the specific part number, they may be able to supply it.
thank you for the level of detail and insight…and for answering questions of random strangers
Hey, just wanted to say i appreciate the video and detail you went into, was a super easy process that looked a bit difficult from the start. Ended up being a piece of cake thanks to you, gave it a good clean and now i have a happy wife again 😊
You sir are a steely eyed missile man! =) I was unable to pull a shot today, no pressure, and stalled out before any water ran through the head. Steam and hot water worked fine though. the solenoid pack is back ordered and the solenoids individually are expensive and would come from Germany. Neither was/is going to help with my morning espresso! The solenoids appeared to be working fine. So with nothing to lose I pulled the solenoids apart. I found the small orifice in the 3-way valve had an obstruction. I cleared it and soaked the parts in citric acid for a few hours. I cleaned the parts reassembled and fired it up. All appears to be working as good as new now. Thank You - for the instruction!
Great, glad you got your machine working. I already had replacement valves on hand when I took mine out. I figured I would give cleaning a try and it seemed to work, so now I have a spare set of valves.
I'm having this exact issue! How did you free the solenoid from the metal valve assembly below it? Mine doesn't want to come apart...
Excellent demonstration, thank you
You are welcome!
Thank you Mr. Brown!!!! I have done this cleaning with the valve, after the buzzing noise and that just did the trick. You saved me $200 repair bill. Thanks again.
Excellent!
Great series man! Was able to revive my solenoid/valves for the time being until the spares arrive. Don’t have a power supply but was able to knock the sealed valve around enough to dislodge it. The 3 way was very clean on mine. No orange color. Replaced the 3 way backwards causing the hot water and steam to not work. My fault for not documenting. Anyway thanks for taking the plunge for the rest of us.
Good to hear! Glad you got the machine working again.
I got a used machine that makes espresso. But it does not make hot water or steam. Also, the machine does not vent. I confirmed that the vales are working mechanically. I realized that someone tried to make a repair before me. I am curious if they have installed the valve backwards. Were you able to resolve the water/steam issue?
Yes it functioned normally once I installed it correctly. I did eventually need to replace the pump and valves though and I use it daily for over a year now.
Thanks for the video. I got the solenoid stuck on my Barista Express (well, in my country, it's branded Catler 8010; it's from 2013). I simplified the procedure a lot. I filled the water tank with water and citric acid (ensuring the citric acid crystals were perfectly dissolved), ran one cup of water through the machine, and let it stand for 12 hours. During these 12 hours, I turned the machine on several times and ran half a cup of water through. The citric acid got to the solenoid valve and dissolved the deposits. Running half a cup of water through the machine replenishes the citric acid where it has to act. The valve got unstuck in about 4 hours, the machine stopped making weird noises, and it has worked fine ever since. BTW, the machine still works perfectly after eleven years - it's unbelievable.
EDIT: At the end of the procedure, you need to remove the citric acid. Remember to wash the water tank properly, change the filter, and run lots of water through the machine (I ran two regular cleaning cycles).
Sounds like a good technique. I do something similar when I run the citric acid descaler through. I'll run one shot, then let it sit for 10 - 15 minutes, then run another shot and repeat until the tank is empty. It takes maybe an hour to run the tank through. But yes, letting that sit in the internals for some time seems to work well.
You are really a genius, very knowledgeable !
Thank you so much 😀
Thank you for the clear and extensive explanation. I took mine out to clean, and couldn’t get into the 3way solenoid... I don’t have a vice to hold it still. Anyway, I then wasn’t sure which way it goes in the assembly - you show the number 1 (on the curved bit) towards the front, but I was told I should look at the numbers OLAB1 & OLAB2, with OLAB1 being the port that let’s the water in from the thermoblock. Can you confirm which way is the right way? Thanks!
Thank you, since I couldn't find the part I tried kind of what you just did with your old solenoids. I put 4 cleaning tablets along with pure descaling solution in the water tank (about 1/4 full) and I made it circulate through the machine. Guess what?, all of a sudden the buzzing noise stopped and now both buttons are working like a charm!. They were dirty just like you said and the solution was able to free the debris I guess.
Good job, glad you got your machine working again. Yes, I think the cleaning and descaling process doesn't fully clean these valves. Over time, deposits build up and it takes a more thorough cleaning to free them up.
Great video, very helpful details! I just ordered the solenoid assembly direct from Breville, customer service needed the SP0020444 part number as they couldn't look it up directly. $44.99 with shipping to a U.S. address.
Good information, thanks for sharing that. Looks like a decent price.
It was 6 months ago when I contacted Breville for this part and they refused to answer any of my questions regarding repairing the machine. They prompted me to ship the machine to them and they will fix it for $250 (excluding shipping) without even asking what was wrong with it. I am very surprised that you convince them to ship you just a part.
Fantastic I know I can sort mine out now thank you.
No problem 👍
Hi R Brown,
Thanks for the multiple videos on the solenoids, extremely helpful! I personally spend multiple hours trying to figure out which part would need replacement, and after I heard that particular noise in your intro coming off the machine, I knew I was in the right place.
I have a Breville Infuser and in every website I looked, there was a comment saying that either the valve assembly has been discontinued, or that the machine works with only specific solenoids (part number XXX). Well, the old OLAB solenoids of my machine are exactly the same with the ones on your video, and I see you dont have an Infuser.
After many desperate moments of rethinking, I went ahead and ordered the same CEME solenoid valve assembly you had as a replacement from ereplacementparts (~$75 including shipping) just to find our that the Infuser works like a charm!
By the way, that website has a very poor photo of the old OLAB valve assembly (yes, OLAB, not CEME), but you get the CEME one if you order the part. Also misleading, are the comments below that part, due to responses that are posted from a non-technical person, so beware.
Bottom line, the CEME solenoid valve works perfectly with the Breville Infuser, and it most probably works with other Breville machines too.
Thanks for posting that useful information. Yes, all these "800" series machines seem to be fairly similar inside as far as the plumbing and other components go.
Thanks for posting this. I was wondering if the new assembly would work with my infuser which had the Olab assembly. Thanks for the confirmation that it will!!
@@KeithFolske It may, lots of common parts used in the 800 series. Check the p/n and see if it's the same:
www.ereplacementparts.com/breville-bes840-infuser-espresso-machine-parts-c-116052_116055_187836.html
Can you send me the link to the solenoid you bought? I have the infuser as well, and I am hesitant to buy the one in this video because it does not have the BES840XL model listed.
I will take your advice and try the pump first (cheapest part I think). thanks for answering my question, it is much appreciated. Thanks again
No problem 👍, post up if that fixed it.
@@The4Crawler HI again, just tried new pump , exactly the same as before change. just noticed very smalll notches out the grouphead seal. I thought I could hear very slight hissing from that area. Going to try the grouuphead seal next.
In my case, the pump was making more of a muffled sound. Was still able to froth milk, though. Anyway, I wen through the cleaning cycle using capsules twice, then again with vinegar. That time, it started making THE buzzing sound. I cleaned one last time with a capsule. And that's the end of the story. I am writing this enjoying a perfect latte. Thank you!
Nice work!
Another great video, thanks. In the UK the same machine is badged under the brand 'Sage' but still called a Barista Express, Model BES870UK. These run at 240V. I have stripped out the solenoid block and found my solenoids are, like yours, Olab units. The 3 way is labelled Serie 9000, the 2 Way is a Serie 6000. I noticed there is a date stamp on mine below the other codes - 24.04.14 (EU date format ddmmyy, 24th April, 2014) . I cant find the Ceme units rated at 240V to replace these, but Im going to have a go cleaning these valves first. Thanks again for posting this up, its been a great help.
I've also looked for the 240V Ceme solenoids but haven't had any luck finding those part numbers either.
@@The4Crawler This is the 240V Ceme part number: SP0020440
And here’s an EU supplier:
www.windhornkd.de/en/products/sage/parts-and-accessories/espresso/ses875-the-barista-express/elektrische-komponenten/165708/magnetventil-version-a
@@nickcalliari507 thank you so much, just spent hours looking for a UK/EU supplier, was about to give up and buy a new machine!
Nice info to have thanks for showing
I've seen a few of these old solenoid blocks on eBay sold as not working, so apparently a fairly common problem. These valves look to be well made so not sure what the root cause of the issue is or why Breville seems to have changed brands a few years back.
thanks man best video 2019
Thanks for the comment. This may not be the fix in all cases, some other posts I've found point to bad rubber seals on the valves that might need replacing.
I had this same noise & found out that I needed to "Decalcify" my machine with Dezcal Packets because vinegar wasn't strong enough to decalcify units now! So Breville recommended I do that procedure twice since the "buzzing sound" was heard by them and I had ZERO Pressure showing up on my gauge but the steamer wand and hot water were working fine. They also recommend that I do the "Clean Me" Tablets twice as well. Before you go and take apart your unit, TRY THIS FIRST! I was SO relieved to find this worked!!
Good point. My machine made this noise intermittently since it was fairly new. It made that same noise whether I used vinegar or Dezcal although I never did that twice in a row. Using a Dezcal solution, I was able to clean the solenoid valves by taking them apart and extended soaking of the parts.
Thank you! This saved me a lot of trouble. I had to go through four Dezcal packets, and almost gave up on the 3rd cycle, but gave it one more try and I started getting pressure again! My hot water and steam had been working perfectly fine, and all of the sudden, zero pressure for espresso - this did the trick!
I agree. R Brown’s video make this even more compelling. Plus the buzzing noise in my case started to appear sporadically until it was happening all the time. I would think that revamping the cleaning as soon as this horrible sound starts should be they way to go before the valves are completely clogged.
thanx for the video.
mine both coffee maker makers sometimes made really loud noise and didn't pour water.
i'v managed to dissemble both valves, smaller one have threaded cap on top, but with help of good calipers i'v managed to unscrew, be careful there's one little spring inside.
Before disassembly i'v checked them with magnet, sometimes they didn't open. After dissemble i'v found that they had buildups on them, so valves sometimes jamed inside. After some boiling in citric acid they come out as new.
So after treatment both coffee makers works as new, no more noises.
Sounds like a good repair!
Thank you for the excellent documentattion of your Breville espresso machine operation and disassembly. All this information is always very useful in the absence of a schematic diagram. You shouldn't need to remove nor disassemble the solenoids to clean their orifice as a periodic cleaning with 50% distilled white vinegar cycled through the lines as part of maintenace should have done the job. Alternately you can use their cleaning "pill" which probably also contains some decalcifier. I had the same problem of solenoid buzzing loudly and watched a video showing the cleaning with vinegar solution, and it solved the problem. Sometimes if I pack the grind too much, I get the buzzing and low pressure at the gauge. So I assume that there must be a flowmeter that keeps sensing the flow. Since the flow is restricted by the dirty line, or blocked orifice, or jammed coffee grind, the controller shuts the solenoid valve off and tries to turn it on again, then senses the flows again and repeats the precess, resulting in a pulsating solenoid, hence the buzzing...?
Some viewers have reported that running multiple descaling cycles can help get the solenoids working better. In my case, that didn't help, and I do the routine descaling cycles. I found that I did need to soak the valves in descaling solution for some time to free them up.
There is a flow meter in the machine, but I think that only gets used to measure the volume of water for the given shot. Maybe newer model machines might cycle the solenoids on and off. But on mine, I see no evidence of that since I added the indicator lights:
ua-cam.com/video/9cC-m3a-oXY/v-deo.html
The 3-port valve stays energized the whole brewing cycle, then shuts off at the end of the cycle. Then the 2-port valve comes on for 30 seconds to purge the steam and hot water out, then it turns off.
I do notice the pump is cycled from low to high power, such as during the cleaning cycle and especially if the filter basket is clogged. I don't think the cleaning cycle/tablet gets very far back into the machine from what I can tell. I think it only cleans the group head area.
@@The4Crawler I did not experiment with the solenoids as of yet, so i cannot confirm it's operation. it was just an assumption based on the result of descaling vs some observed symptoms. Although i had them, I did not use the tablet. I tried the vinegar solution first and it worked. Nevertheless, if I pack the coffee grind too tight, I observed the wobbling noise returns without pressure at the gauge which is perhaps due to the pump cycling instead of the solenoid cycling. But the pump cycling you described must depends on the controller sensing the change in pressure. The volume of water depends on the flow which depends itself on the line and orifices being optimally clean, to obtain a specific volume of hot water within a specific time. The timer alone cannot guarantee the volume. it must take a sensor input from either pressure or flow, or both. Pressure sensor are cheaper to implement as an analog signal, whereas flow meter are better used as digital on/off switch: flow or no flow. Now, if the descaling process had not solved my "buzzing" problem, I would have done exactly what you did using my ultrasonic cleaner. I used it to clean my car fuel injectors and it really dislodged most of the micro cruds from within, and quite well I must say. It even restored the sheen by removing the surface grime built up over time, making the parts looking almost polished. Keep the good work! Thank you.
@@francoisguyot9770 There is a flow meter down below the water pump:
ua-cam.com/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/v-deo.html
I've not been able to identify anything that looks like a pressure transducer on the machine, although I've not torn it completely apart.
Great video. Am in the process of cleaning my valves now. But I might just order new ones
That's how I did mine in the long run. Bought a new valve assembly to swap into the machine. Then I could take my time to open up and clean and test the old valves, which are now my spare set.
@@The4Crawler I think for me, it is the valve that you can open up. The metal slug (?) that should slide up when a magnet is applied, seems to be getting stuck - I could not open it yesterday, but I did manage to open it just now (the brass nut is soft, so I wasn’t going to force it last night).
I don’t have quite the same brown residue, but there is scale present in the “tube”, on the slug, and some in the valve body that appeared to block the hole that the slug covered.
Will update later after a few more hours soaking in vinegar
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
In any case, I liked your instructions. Maybe I was just lucky enough that cleaning did it. But I washed two tanks of concentrated citric acid through the system until it worked again. This magnet valve group is now so expensive that it is definitely worth cleaning the valves when they get stuck.
Yes, I didn't try multiple descaling cycles back to back. I have heard that that sometimes helps. I also started out using vinegar and only after a few years switched to citric acid, so that may have had an effect.
Thank you for the great help. I figured out you can open the second solenoid in the top third. You can see a small joining line.
Thanks for the info!
It makes it easier to put the O-Ring first onto the tube and than both together into the fitting. So the tube becomes your special tool.
Yes, I found that works most of the time. But I did have a time or two where I felt the o-ring go into the fitting crooked when inserted on the end of the tube. Maybe it was OK, but the only way to check was to pull the tube and usually the o-ring out. I found that inserting the o-ring into the fitting by itself followed by the tube worked more reliably for me.
Hey, my Barista express was tripping my breaker everytime I turned it on. I opened it up and saw straight away limescale build up where there has obviously been a leak which I assumed shorted out the electrics thus tripping the safety mech. I saw the biggest spot of limescale build up was under the Solonoid block so watched your great vid of how to remove it etc. I took it all apart and gave it a good clean. I removed and cleaned and inspected the o rings which all seemed OK. Put it all back together and hey presto, so it worked... For a day! It is no longer tripping my electric but everytime I turn it on, it beeps once, then the only light that is illuminated is the programme light. It will not allow me to do anything else.
I have to then turn the power off at the wall and try again. After several attempts it sometimes decides to fire up. However. All lights illuminated, I can get steam and hot water successfully and grinder works but... The programme, single and double shot buttons do nothing when pressed. I have tried factory reset but nothing. It actually, randomly today allowed me to do one double shot and then that was it. Back to being unresponsive. Any help here would be greatly appreciated! Sorry if I waffled!
Likely you were getting a line to ground fault at that was tripping your RCD or GFCI breaker. The hard water deposits can do that, bridging from an electrical terminal, like on a solenoid valve to the metal of the machine (that's grounded or earthed).
It also sounds like you may have a problem with the power supply on the main circuit board:
siber-sonic.com/appliance/800Electrical.html
You can try troubleshooting that per the above page (yes a different model machine but very similar) or you might try sourcing a new main PCB. Might be worth contacting Breville support and see if they can offer any assistance. They do have a flat rate repair service for issue like this.
@@The4Crawler Excellent! Thank you for such a swift response! I will be taking your advice and see what I can do. Failing that I will contact Sage/Breville. I shall report back 😊
I had a similar problem after replacing solenoid block. No lights or function of single or double shot buttons. Got them back by wiggling the ribbon cables running between grinder and solenoids. They were all connected fine but I must have moved them and upset them when replacing solenoids. Try that and let me know if you have same problem.
@@scottgaskell3635 ahhh wow thanks for the advice. I should've tried that for sure. I ended up having to sell it as spares/rapair as couldn't figure it out 🙈. I managed to get a new one half price from sage so back making enjoying coffee once again. Thank you all for your help and advice
thanks a lot
becuse of your videos i understand what is the problem with my machine.
the "close" of the valve was blocked so I did not have a steamer and hot water.
and it buildup preacher and the "safety preacher valve" did not release so the inlet tube pop out.
anyway
keep the good videos
thanks a lot
Great job, glad you got your machine working.
Help mine issue is that there's no water coming out only out in the to the drip tray.. The sound of the solenoid seems normal.. Same issue when i press for steam , i get steam but also when i close it then again water spills out in the drip tray any suggestions ???
Check this video that shows how the water is supposed to flow and how the tubing is connected:
ua-cam.com/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/v-deo.html
Might be something is not connected right inside or perhaps the 3-way solenoid, although sounding right, may be clogged inside and not allowing water to go to the brew head. When that happens, water goes instead to the drip tray.
@@The4Crawler thanks for the fast reply , yes i will do , i will keep you posted. Cheers
I think judging by the build numbers on the valves the switch from Olab to Ceme occurred in about 2018. I have ordered a replacement from Germany, €75 plus €15 shipping. I'm in the UK and they are impossible to get here. My Olab assembly needed repairs and is working fine now but I don't trust it to last forever as it's a mix of old, new and used spare parts. The elbow connection has a tendency to wear out and I had the "Olab2" connector break up too. Luckily I had a secondhand assembly spare, the elbow connector was no use but the other parts came in handy. I have ordered a new Ceme assembly so i have the ability to prolong the life of the Machine should the Olab one fail again.
My question to you is which assembly do you think looks most sturdy and built to last. The old or the new one?
Hard to say which looks better. The Olab valves are mostly made of metal, much more plastic in the Ceme valves, so Olab would appear to be better from that viewpoint. But given that Breville changed to the Ceme and that there have been lots of issues reported with the older Olab valves, that gives a nod to Ceme. Also, my Olab valves made intermittent buzzing noises almost from the start while the Ceme valves have a nice solid sound when they actuate. Not sure if that difference is from the higher current in the solenoid coil or if there's something else different in the design.
Good morning Mr. Brown. First thing I want to say is how I'm impress by all the good work you did with your video, it's so clear and descriptive. Very helpful. I still have a question. I removed my solenoid valve assembly from my Breville 840XL and started to take it apart but I can't remove the solenoid from the 3 way valve because when I tried to unscrew the nut, the shaft is turning. How have you done this please. Thank you very much. P.S Excuse my writing english is not my mother tongue
I have some photos part way down the photo album below of how I did that:
photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59
That tube threads into the top of the valve, it will come all of the way out, which is not a problem. You can pull the coil off the bottom.
Thanks, very helpful. At 1:31 , the 'open passage', which side does that go on? The right, elbow side coming in from the thermo block heater or does it go on the left, out to the group head and 2 way valve side? Appreciate it.
That's the inlet side with the elbow feeding water in from the thermo-coil. That lets water into the valve then it switches the water flow out the top or out the other side.
@@The4Crawler Thanks. That really helped me. My 870 was not putting out any water through steam or group head. Looks like the pinhole orifice was clogged with sediment. When reassembling, I couldn't be sure I had the 'open passage' on the correct elbow/inlet side.
Thank you so much for your informative, easy to follow videos. I have a Barista BES870 and I need advice on what you might think is the cause of my problem. I’ve just finished a regular clean and descale. Now when I draw a shot, the pressure builds up as normal, then…as coffee drips into the cup, clean water spits out between the group head & the top of the portafilter, then a portion of the group head gasket pops causing the pressure to drop which in turn stops the drawing. Any ideas!
It may be the silicone gasket up inside the group head has been dislodged (might have coffee grounds underneath it) or it is damaged. That could be what's letting hot water escape above the filter basket. Official name for that part is "shower head steam ring" or "seal shower head" , p/n SP002556
www.breville.com/us/en/parts-accessories/parts/sp0025526.html
Thanks, I’ll order the part and see how it goes. I’ve opened the machine and all looks ok visually. I’ve also removed and cleaned the group head filter and silicone gasket (which was dirty & didn’t appear damaged), but did not solve the issue. So hopefully the new gasket will work. I’ll keep you posted.
Thank you for the clear and extensive explanation. I took mine out to clean, and couldn’t get into the 3way solenoid... I don’t have a vice to hold it still. Anyway, I then wasn’t sure which way it goes in the assembly - you show the number 1 (on the curved bit) towards the front, but I was told I should look at the numbers OLAB1 & OLAB2, with OLAB1 being the port that let’s the water in from the thermoblock. Can you confirm which way is the right way? Thanks!
I would just go by the way the flow goes. With power off, valve closed, air or water will flow from one side port to the top port but not the other side port. So find the side port that you can blow through and that goes on the outside. My valve had a "1" stamped on the side facing away from the bracket. Yours may be marked different, but I can only comment on the way my valve was installed when I took it apart.
R Brown thank you! That makes total sense. 😊
R Brown Thanks for taking the time to reply! I’m looking forward to your video showing the lights indicating that the solenoids are working...
I have a Sage BES870UK/a and I need a solenoid assembly but all I can find is one for a Breville XL. Are they the same. Shall I try to clean them ? - mine has all plastic connectors below the solenoids - not brass/stainless steel as you have shown in your video. Any help would be appreciated.
Sounds like you have the newer Ceme (plastic) solenoids vs. the older Olab (brass) parts. The assemblies are swappable, I put a Ceme assembly in my older machine to replace the Olab parts:
ua-cam.com/video/yPZCZxlEU6Q/v-deo.html
Only variable is the voltage of the coils, 120V or 240V. I haven't tried opening up and cleaning the Ceme solenoids as mine were brand new when I installed them.
Hi R Brown! Thanks for making such an informative video. My right solenoid that leads to the seems to be pooling water at the top. I disassembled - took off the tubing and the top connector from the solenoid. Then tightened the nut on the solenoid. Then put it all back together. Unfortunately, it is still leaking. Do you happen to know if there is a fix for this?
Leads to the hot water/steamer*
@@merandaruff7798 A few possibilities. One is add some Teflon tape to the threads on the end of the solenoid before screwing on the plastic fitting. Make sure the little o-ring is properly seated when inserting the tube:
ua-cam.com/video/yPZCZxlEU6Q/v-deo.html
The o-ring may be damaged, if so, replacements are available on the channel web page. Or it may be the plastic fitting is cracked in which case you may need to try and repair it or replace it.
I have the same issue on the right solenoid (when looking at it from the front of the machine) - is that the same one as you? Seems to be leaking through the thread.
At around 2min 30 when you are playing with the top part of the selenoid you say there is a tiny hole there. Does the air pass through? On the one i have it seem to have a metal ball there and no air goes through when the plunger is removed
In mine, that upper hole is what sends heated water to the hot water/steam valve on the side of the machine:
ua-cam.com/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/v-deo.html
I found your videos very informative.. My Breville is over 10 years old, and no pressure. My question is where do I go to order the new solenoid assembly? My machine chatters and builds no pressure. I am willing to replace parts since replacing mine will be over $700.
Part numbers and purchase links in the description of the video below:
ua-cam.com/video/yPZCZxlEU6Q/v-deo.html
You can also try contacting Breville support and you can often order that part, if you provide the part number, from them.
Boss, I have followed your same cleaning and disassembly here on my BES820XL in which the solenoid was extremely noisy. I also de-scaled and cleaned it. However, when I reinstalled it, the breaker/fuse on my mains blew. I disconnected the solenoid and plugged the machine in again and the fuse did not pop, so it seems isolated to the solenoid and not some other wiring. I checked my connections based on a couple of photos I took before disassembly and all seems correct. Have I broken something or could I have connected something wrong?
Odds are you have a GFCI or RCD type breaker or receptacle? If so, likely the coil on the solenoid (the black plastic cube) is shorting to ground internally or you may have the ground terminal connected to one of the power wires. See the photo album below for how to test the coil:
photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59
Should show resistance between the 2 vertical terminals and infinite resistance (open circuit) between either one and the ground pin. Look for signs of water leaking onto the coil or any cracks or black carbon cracks on the surface. If bad, replace the coil or get a new solenoid valve with coil. The coils can swap between valves.
I have model number SES878. The pipes are crimped to the solenoids. My problem is i get hot water/steam at the group head when i am using the wand. So i can sort of make a coffee if i can see though steam. I can make an expresso fine. Its like the water connection to the group head is not turning off. Which solenoid os this?
Not familiar with that exact machine, but it's likely similar to the water flow in my machine:
ua-cam.com/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/v-deo.htmlsi=vX70m0h1uZ0hMJoh
Usually the first solenoid that the heated water gets to after the thermo-coil. There is splits to either the group head or the hot water / steam valve. If so, it's likely that first solenoid valve is clogged inside, sticking part way open and letting hot water and steam flow to both sides. One easy check is to disconnect power to that solenoid and see if that fixes the steam issue. If so, then that solenoid is being powered partially in the steam cycle (it should be off).
this valve assemble is not available anymore.. (for now)... so yeah, you definitely want to rebuild and clean this assembly.
How do you determine if you have a bad solenoid valve assembly or water pump? Water just stopped coming out of the group head, steam wand and water spout all of a sudden. I have both on order but wonder if there is a good way to narrow it down.
Good question. Both issues exhibit low/no water output. In my experience, the solenoid issue has the loud buzzing sound when you hit the 1-cup or 2-cup buttons. Pump problem would usually be just low pressure/flow output without the buzzing solenoid. Could also see if there's a difference in flow between say just running water through the group head with no filter basket, like you do during descaling (low pressure) vs. with the filter basket installed (high pressure). I think it makes sense to replace both parts at the same time, having the pump removed gives better access to the solenoid block. I had both parts on order, but my pump still hasn't arrived from that order. I ended up ordering a pump from Amazon and will give that a go as I think my pump is also going, pressure has been steadily falling and is now almost 0 on the gauge.
I had the buzzing sound too but it was caused by me not using a stronger decalcifying product. I used Vinegar which my manual told me to use. I spoke with Breville yesterday and they no longer recommend using Vinegar. They suggested I use Dezcal packets (Amazon has it). They instructed me to do the decalcifying twice and then follow up with the tablet "Clean Me" procedure TWO times. When I did this, BOTH my pressure gauge AND my buzzing sound stopped. It was magical. I would do this going forward to prevent the buzzing to come back. Which is will if you do not decalcify it properly.
Hello just wondering if you can help, my espresso machine won’t build any pressure and is purging all the water when making an espresso into the drip tray.
Likely the 3-port solenoid valve is the issue:
ua-cam.com/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/v-deo.html
That needs to open fully to pass water to the group head. Otherwise it just sends all the water to the drip tray. Check out the other videos in this playlist with removal, replacement and cleaning instructions to solve that issue.
My machine is now not pulling any water through at all - it started with low pressure, then developed low/no steam/hot water. Very little noise coming from the machine - very quiet for the usual starting noise and when trying to use steam wand can only hear a very faint pumping sound. I tried pulling a shot with the water line from the pump to the thermoblock disconnected and it pumped good high pressure water through. Then I tried taking the solenoid assembly apart and cleaned as per this video. When I put it back together and tried pulling a shot, I got 1/2 second of the buzzing noise then it went quiet again and now there is no water at all coming through any anywhere. Did I do something wrong? My guess is I need to buy new solenoid parts?
The 3 port solenoid valve is the key component that switches the water from the thermo-coil to the group head:
ua-cam.com/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/v-deo.html
If that valve doesn't open fully and block off flow to the hot water/steam valve, water takes the path of least resistance and flows down to the drip tray instead of pushing through the tightly packed coffee in the porta-filter.
Pump will only build pressure (and make noise) when there's something restricting water flow. It's like filling a water balloon by holding the neck open and trying to squirt water into it. A bit of water will end up in the balloon but most of it will end up spraying all over the place and running down the drain.
Thanks for this video. Would appreciate your input on this.
It was making a high-pitched sound which based on information online, was likely the solenoid. Before replacing/cleaning it, we ran it through with descaling liquid which actually resolved things. Then suddenly ~2 weeks later, it started making a high-pitched sound again, low pressure and water was filling the bottom drip tray. I ended up taking things apart and taking the solenoid out, but not I'm not 100% sure it is the solenoid based on the symptoms above. Unfortunately, as I took the solenoid out, the hose that required me to snip the zip tie ripped so it's not usable anymore.
I can order a new solenoid ($~120 in Canada) and install it pretty easily I think but it would be a shame if that was not the problem.
Any thoughts on what the problem might be? Your input is much appreciated!
If you have some electrical experience, you can try testing the solenoid:
ua-cam.com/video/yYJRQu3ZUik/v-deo.html
Or open it up and try cleaning it internally and see if that helps. Since you said it worked for 2 weeks after descaling, it may be that it needs some more cleaning as shown in this video. If you can't open up the solenoid, you can use the magnets like I did to hold the valve open and then soak it in descaling liquid for some hours.
i have the exact same problem! let me know if you figured out the problem..
My Breville BES870CBXL trips the GFCI outlet when pouring a coffee but not when using the wand. I disconnected the three way solenoid valve and the GFCI does not trip anymore so my guess my solenoid has an issue. I removed it and some black liquid came out from it on the left port (the outlet). I just ordered another and will see if that was the culprit. Did not have the skills or patience to repair it like you did!
Likely it's just the black plastic encased coil that's faulty. May have a crack in the case or water has penetrated it and caused an electrical connection from the coil to the metal body of the solenoid, that's grounded.
@@The4Crawler Ah that would make sense!
Hi, first of all thank you so much for your videos! Fantastic! Unfortunately I have a problem I wanted to ask your advise for. My machine in very poor shape in terms of descaling. I had to descale a lot over the course of 5 weeks. After that the steam pressure picked up and went back to normal for about 4 months. However since then and after keeping a descaling routine every two weeks the machine kept expelling very small black/metalic particles. I assume due to the very poor shape it was. No problem there but the steam selector started to get harder and harder to turn. The weirdest thing is that when the machine is cold I can turn it with no issues, but after pouring an espresso it becomes imposible to turn. If I try to turn it to hot water as soon as I switch on the machine it moves but quickly gets blocked (no water flow) and if I try steam it clearly is also blocked letting very little steam out. I took it for maintenance to some specialist but they couldn’t figure it out and they were unable to remove the selector as it was very tight. They try to lubricate the selector with no luck. Can you think of something I could try?
thank you so much in advance and I hope this question doesn’t bother you. I don’t want to abuse your good faith and time. Thanks and best wishes!
I've not worked on my steam valve, but this web page has some things to try:
siber-sonic.com/appliance/800Mech.html
@@The4Crawler thank you very much :)
Last question. I am unable to get flow out of the plastic end of my 3 way solenoid from 5:20 with and without a magnet. Does the plastic end supposed to have any flow into? I think this may be the cause of my bad machine.
On the 3 port valve, normal flow (no power or magnet applied) is in from the side and then out the top. That's what feeds the hot water/steam valve. With power applied, the center slug of the solenoid is pulled up to block off the top port and allow water to flow out the other side port, this is what feed the group head. With that valve, I was able to disassemble it, which makes it easier to check for blockage and to clean.
@@The4Crawler Thank you so much. It works now.
There is an easier way. DIssolve the scale in the valves by washing citric acid - not just the cleaning cycle, get the whole tank washed through the system.
Yes, I do that as well:
ua-cam.com/video/bJGKcatfei4/v-deo.html
However, I found it necessary to take the valves apart for a more thorough descaling (several hours of soaking) to get mine freed up.
Where you say it "goes up to the thermo block" at 7:25, actually, that goes up to the group head, where it is forced through the coffee grounds.
The solenoid manifold tubes go this way, from left: left goes to diffuser and is the drain or exhaust, the one that goes up from the T between the solenoids goes to the group head for making espresso, the one out the top of the second solenoid goes to the steam/hot water dial as you said, the right tube comes FROM the thermo block heater.
Correct, I had not yet worked out the full water flow in the machine. Made a later video to describe that:
ua-cam.com/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/v-deo.html
@@The4Crawler Thanks. Your videos helped me a lot anyways, especially seeing how the solenoids looked on their inside.
awesome vid roger! my solenoid starting making a lot of weird noise.what kind of citric acid did you use to soak it with? can i mix the descaling tablets with water and use that to descale the solenoid? or should i just use vinegar?
I just used my regular Dezcal powder, mixed it up somewhat stronger than normal solution along with a few drops of dish soap.
@@The4Crawler how did you hook up the power source to test its functionality? what's the power supply needed and how to hook it up?
@@The4Crawler Thanks Roger. i took them apart and now soaking in vinegar. the parts all look very clean inside. but while taking apart, i did notice some of the nuts were very loose. also, the 2 solenoids, they look identical. does it matter which goes to which side?
@@The4Crawler Thank you Roger. you are a lifesaver! took it apart last night and cleaned it and at least now my machine is much more quieter. i did notice some of the nuts holding the solenoids down was loose, so that might be another cause. but so far so good. i put it all back together today and ran another cleaning cycle using 50/50 vinegar with water.
Sorry to bother you. I am trying to take the coil out so I can clean the internal structure. I have a difficulty in separating the vertical plastic connector from the metal part. I turned the nuts but didn’t work. I am wondering how you did that. I am not sure if I pull it out directly. Thanks for your time!
I have some detailed photos with descriptions in the photo album below that might help:
photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59
My Breville Infuser makes a very loud grinding noise initally and then all is well, the pressure valve shows the correct pressure, etc. I clean and use only filtered water. Breville is saying its a failing solenoid but why does it work to make espresso? It's just started making this grinding noise.
If the sound is like at the beginning of this video:
ua-cam.com/video/96IuKiuIB5A/v-deo.html
then that could be one of the solenoid valves, not fully opening. Otherwise, it may just be the pump, I find mine is quiet sometimes and loud other times when the machine is first turned on.
Had a issue with my solenoid coil going bad and no water out the group head. I replaced it, but after about a week the group head had no water coming out again. This time the solenoid coil is fine, and the solenoid is able to actuate with a magnet. What should I check now? Would it be a pcb issue?
Likely the Triac on the main PCB, photos of it with p/n info below:
photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59
Hello Mr brown
Can I use citric accide to descale the machine?
Is there other off shelf solution that you reccomend?
Thanks for your videos.
Sure, citric acid works, Dezcal works:
ua-cam.com/video/bJGKcatfei4/v-deo.html
or I made my own version of Dezcal:
ua-cam.com/video/E1-DanQEJEw/v-deo.html
@@The4Crawler Any signs of corrosion ? just asking since you had a video fixing the manual HOT WATER-OFF-STEAM valve. Can this be related to the use of dezcal or Citric ACid perhaps?. Thanks a lot for your videos !!!!
@@juliobaldassarre551 Nothing that was visible as far as corrosion goes inside the solenoid valve.
@@The4Crawler WOW prompt answer !.. thx a lot !
USE Dezcal Packets (per Breville) or the Keurig little kits but both both products into the water resevoir. Vinegar (what they used to recommend) isn't strong enough to clear the tubing that needs to be decalcified too.
do you think the ceme solenoids would fit the olab valve bodies? l had ordered the new replacement solenoids but the do not fit as the yolks are plastic and not brass.
A good chance the solenoid coils (the black plastic parts) would fit, they should be the same center bore between the two different mfgs. as that center tube has the same size in both:
photos.app.goo.gl/An2mdh18BxJB3ovM7
@@The4Crawler yes I saw that but seeing as the piston is encased if it is seized it still won't work properly...if l can determine if it is just the solenoid that has failed that may be the best solution. I have written to the supplier but have not heard back yet.
@@davebl9645 Easy enough to test the solenoid coil, if you have an multi-meter:
photos.app.goo.gl/MDHkbzPUUJrRrG1W8
Hi R Brown, I've ruined my fingers trying to remove that black cube on top of the valve. How did you do it? Couldn't understand how to disassemble from watching the video over and over. Thanks!
I see the thin nut on top, as you suggested in your previous comment. But I'm spinning it anticlockwise with pliers and it seems to be going nowhere. The thread is spinning along with the nut! Haha
If I grab the base of the 3-way valve, or if I grab the black box, the nut doesn't come undone and I'm going on circles. Any tips would be appreciated!
Two photos showing how I removed the Olab solenoid coils from the valve body:
photos.app.goo.gl/fV4EVN1y1LMGakLe8
photos.app.goo.gl/jDfNy2gEdHUA18io6
In short, used an wrench to loosen the thin jam nut on top of the coil, remove that ut and the coil slides off. On the 3-port valve, you need to unscrew the plastic fitting off the top of the valve, then remove the nut and finally the coil.
@@The4Crawler the first photo is of a bicycle in the woods ... the second photo is not of the 2/3 solenoid, but for the other one. I’m also having huge issues unscrewing the 2/3 valve, that’s why I was particularly interested in this exchange. I gave up trying to open it and purchased a replacement one. I am still not the wiser as to which way that one goes! I’m not as dab a hand as Mr Brown...
@@mbaptista2454 Maybe Google photos changes links as photos are added to albums. Here's a link to the entire Barista Express photo album:
photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59
Latest uploads at the bottom.
@@The4Crawler thank you Mr Brown... I’ll check. You’re such a great tutor, and a very patient one. Very helpful. I’m interested in all interactions, as I’m still trying to sort out my machine. I’ve replaced the solenoids and the pump, but there’s no water coming out anywhere. I’m about to try the priming of the pump. I’ll keep reading!
Love your solenoid lights... I wish I could replicate it. I don’t have the equipment / tools! Maybe one day. :)
Hi, I'm really hoping you can help me.
I have a Breville BES860XL, and as of a few days ago, upon start up, the machine no longer makes that initial loud noise. As well, it doesn't make the loud noise that it did after using the steamer. It's now rather a faint noise.
I had been using the machine to only froth milk for several weeks (no pulling of espresso), when this happened.
I was told that it might be the pump. I replaced the pump and sad to say still the same issue, except that now there is no water or steam from the steam wand either (I hear the pump going, but nothing else).
I'm really hoping you can help me isolate the issue as I'm in love with my machine and really don't want to part with it.
Thank you for any help you can provide.
You machine may be a little different than mine (870XL), but my guess would be the 3-port solenoid valve is not opening fully, letting most of the water flow out the diffuser and into the drip tray, or there is a clogged tube someplace. Check out the water flow and see if you can find where the bottleneck is:
ua-cam.com/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/v-deo.html
How did you get the solenoid apart?
Seems on mine the plastic housing that the contacts are embedded in is stuck onto the cylinder
Shown in this video is the older Olab solenoid valves, all brass. Sounds like you have the newer Ceme valves with the plastic body. Check out the comments on this video:
ua-cam.com/video/96IuKiuIB5A/v-deo.html
Under the name Emma Clapperton
@@The4Crawler I have the same OLAb solenoids that were in your machine before you replaced them in the video you linked.
There is a black cube with 3 contacts.
Under that is a brass body.
In this video you show the black cube removed from the cylindrical inner portion with threads on top.
I guess maybe there is nothing to clean in between those two pieces, or nothing that would impair the function of the solenoid anyways...
@@NMEZero666 I have some close-up photos below to show how those come apart:
photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59
But it's just a tube that runs through the center of the solenoid coil, which is magnetized when power is applied. I only took the coils off so I could submerge the metal parts in some descaling solution.
@@The4Crawler thanks so much, that really helps!
I tried a wheel puller and was able to get it a little loose but not completely apart. And I cracked the plastic casing. I guess from reading the comments on the photos that's very bad...
I hVe new solenoid assembly coming from Germany. Had to pay a real premium for it.
Tried ordering the whole kit from erplacementa but it has been out of stock and I've been waiting over 6 weeks with no estimated delivery times.
I may just have to wait til the new part gets here.
Your videos have been super helpful. Much appreciated.
hello, I have Sage Touch and I cleaned the limescale after that the temperature in the boiler does not rise more than 70 degrees and all the time it shows on the screen the temperature I can't change anything from the settings what could be the cause please if you can help me thank you very much maybe read and advise me ……
You might try contacting Sage customer support and see if they have any ideas. Maybe there's a way of resetting the machine, I'm not familiar with that model as mine has no screen.
There is no water flowing from the group head of my Breville Infuser. I did some research on the internet, and there is a suggestion on purging the steam wand for 2mins, follow by turning the hot water dial, and purging the steam wand for another 2mins. I also did a descaling process prior to purging the steam wand. This resolved the problem, but the problem arose again after I left the machine on standby for about 20-30 mins. I also try by following your step by step video on dismantling the machine & cleaning solenoid, but unable to solve the problem. Please let know if there is any solution to resolve this issue. Thanks.
When there's no water at the group head, is there water flowing into the drip tray? If so, it's likely the 3-port valve not fully opening and thus closing off the port that send water to the drip tray via the hot water/steam valve. Usually that valve will make a buzzing sound heard above the pump if it's the issue. Maybe try descaling/cleaning/purging it again and see if that helps. If all else fails, consider replacing the solenoid valve or contact Breville and see if they have any ideas.
@@The4Crawler Thanks for your reply, will try this & see if it works. We don’t have the privilege to call Breville, as they don’t have a office in my country, only reseller, which is not helpful at all.
I know video is old, but it is possible to open the one way solenoid valve. The top part which you said is magnetic, actually can be screwed off ccw
Good to know, thanks for the comment!
@@The4Crawler I’m the one thanking, you have saved my life a couple of times 😅
Great video, My old breville BES870 will not get up to a decent pressue, it seem to max out just in the espresso range after the infusion , I have tightened the OPV (right in) but it doesnt make any difference to the pressure . even with the blind basket shot. Do you think the pump may be weak or the guage is not reading correctly? many thanks
Hard to say, but on my machine, I found a new pump did the trick:
ua-cam.com/video/i8GGZHKNxPo/v-deo.html
You can also rebuild the pump, although I've not tried that yet. Gauge is somewhat harder to replace and since your is at least reading something, it's likely OK, it's purely mechanical.
@@The4Crawler HI again, just tried new pump , exactly the same as before change. just noticed very smalll notches out the grouphead seal. I thought I could hear very slight hissing from that area. Going to try the grouuphead seal next.
@@martingoodbody Sounds like a plan, it's usually a process of elimination.
@@The4Crawler your right there. thanks again
@@The4Crawler @suba Hi again, tried the group head seal still no different, had the machine open whilst running a shot. At the same time as the shot was extracting, I had water running into the tray. . It wasn't coming from the OPV. It was coming from the 2way valve on the end straight into the diffuser. Should this be happening at the same time as it is trying to build pressure. Many thanks again Martin
I have the 980XL. Mine is leaking from the the hot water spigot, and then when I pull espresso the water streams out of the hot water spigot causing my pressure to the espresso go down. It still directs some water the the espresso head. Ideas?
Simple, the 3-port solenoid valve is not fully opening and thus sealing off the flow to the hot water/steam valve:
ua-cam.com/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/v-deo.html
If it partially works, likely the valve is clogged internally. Cleaning, as shown in this video, or replacing, as shown in an earlier video in this playlist, is the solution.
@@The4Crawler There were two of those solenoids in there. I took one apart and cleaned it with vinegar. I thought it was the one that went to the hot water spout and group head. I got all the parts separated and cleaned and I think it is working slightly better as it doesn't leak when it just sitting there, but it still leaks when I am pulling espresso. Maybe I should just replace the solenoid.
@@joshuacoleman276 Assuming the same setup as the 870XL model, the 3 port solenoid is the key part of the machine. One port goes to the group head. The other part to the hot water/steam valve. To work, it must seal off the port not being used. Maybe the seal is leaking or the solenoid coil is not pulling the plunger in hard enough to make the seal tight.
Hey there, have an interesting challenge. My machine has almost no water output nor steam. Replaced the pump - no pos effect; replaced the solenoid with good ones - no pos effect. Did 2 checks -> unplugged the hose which leads into the thermocoil: water pumps nicely / unplugged the hose which comes out of the thermocoil -> almost no water/steam comes out. Any idea what it could be ? Maybe an clogged thermocoil ?
Sounds likely the thermo coil is clogged up. Maybe try a couple of descaling cycles and let the solution sit in the coil for 10-15 minutes at a time before running the pump. If there's hard water buildup, that should help to open it up. But it may be something else blocking it in which case that may need to be replaced.
You might also see if you can reverse the flow in the thermo coil and see if you can back flush it and push whatever is blocking it out of the inlet.
I had the buzzing sound and 0 Gauge pressure. It was caused by me not using a stronger decalcifying product. I used Vinegar which my manual told me to use. I spoke with Breville yesterday and they no longer recommend using Vinegar. They suggested I use Dezcal packets (Amazon has it). They instructed me to do the decalcifying twice and then follow up with the tablet "Clean Me" procedure TWO times. When I did this, BOTH my pressure gauge AND my buzzing sound stopped. It was magical. I would do this going forward to prevent the buzzing to come back. Which is will if you do not decalcify it properly
Hi good sir. How did you remove the solenoid coil from the vavle? I opened my breville machine and the valves are clean no trace of residue. I suspect that my solenoid coils are the culprit. There are solenoid coils replacement but the problem is I can't remove the coil from the valve. Thanks good sir.
First push on 1 or 2 cups there's water on brew head then when the machine is hot there is no water from brew head anymore when 1/2 cups is pushed.
On the Olab solenoids, you just remove the thin jam not on top of the solenoid coil and slide it off. It's a 14mm or 9/16" hex head. A bit tricky to get to as it's recessed part way into the coil, a pair of needle nose pliers can help if you don't have a thin wall socket to get the nut loose. If you have a multi-meter, test the coil resistance first. My 120V coils read 660 ohms, suspect the 240V units would be about twice that. If you see a reading way higher than that, then the coils have probably gone open circuit. You can see details in my 870XL photo album:
photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59
Hi sir, seems like I can't open without a video. Seems so hard to do by myself. I have a multimeter but didn't thougt of testing the coils. If ever i will test. I will just put the positive and negative (from multimeter) on the left and right pin in the solenoid coil? What is the use of the lower pin in the coil?
I think i would be better off in buying the solenoid assembly but the problem is I am in the Phillipines. The only site that sells the assembly is ereplacement. Btw the coil on my breville is Ceme, it's color blue instead of the black one you have.
Left and right pins for the coil. Bottom pin is the earth/ground connection. I've not disassembled the Ceme solenoids, but they seem to have the same thin nut on top. Photo of how to remove the Olab coils in my 870XL photo album: photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59
@@The4Crawler Thanks Roger, how would I connect the multimeter to coil to test it?
@@tomcon626 See the last photo in my 870XL photo album:
photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59
I found the pump is working fine by detaching the hose that goes into the top of the heating element. Water squirts out. However, I can’t pull a shot or get water out of the steam wand or hot water dispenser. And the pressure gauge is motionless. I can hear the solenoid clicking on and off though. Could this be the solenoid?
Consider this: I got this refurbished and it’s worked great for two years. But I didn’t know about the cleaning requirements as it didn’t come with the box, instructions, or even the rubber disk with descaling tablets. It could be things are clogged. But where exactly is my first question. Since the pump works and the wand, hot water, and group head can’t get water, can you say that’s a solenoid issue? Thanks!
Follow the water:
ua-cam.com/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/v-deo.html
Look inside and see if water is flowing out of the over pressure valve, if so it may have some debris inside holding it open, that would bleed off most of the pressure and send that water to the drip tray. For hot water to get to the group head, the 3-port solenoid has to be open, which seals off the passage to the hot water valve. While the solenoid may be clicking, it may not be fully opening, which seals off the port that send water to the drip tray. Try descaling a few times and see if that helps. Owner's Manual is available on-line.
@@The4Crawler just followed the water and it turns out water isn’t even getting into the solenoid. The pump puts water into the heating coil and it’s coming out, barely, as steam through the small hose that connects the heat coil and solenoid. If descaling doesn’t work, dies this mean heat coil replacement or is there a more hands on way to clean? Thanks!
@@brianbrooks-pv2ev One of the lines could be plugged, or the inside of the thermo-coil could be plugged with hard water deposits. A few descaling cycles might help to clear that out, let the descaling solution sit inside for some time before running another shot through the machine. Or maybe the water is going out the overpressure valve that sits on top of the pump (white thing with a black adjustment piece).
@@The4Crawler I cleared out the line between the heat coil and the solenoid and it’s still spitting out steam, not water.
It’s odd: you’d think the water should be going out the over-pressure valve on top of the pump if the heat coil isn’t allowing water through, but only a little comes out, not near as much as what used to come out after a regular shot pull. As well, the pressure gauge isn’t moving at all. That makes me think the blockage is between the heat coil intake and the pressure gauge outlet and only barely enough steam is getting through to keep the pressure gauge needle from moving. Thoughts on that?
I’m also assuming two things that may need clarification:
1) that the outlet for the pressure gauge is between the heat coil intake and the outlet of the heat coil (where the steam is coming out). I guess it could be between the group head and the input hose from the solenoid.
2) that the output of the heat coil is supposed to be really hot water stream. It’s pushing out hot steam at a decent clip. Maybe that’s what is supposed to be happening? Idk. Thanks again.
Great video, hope you can help me, my machine turns on, and when I try to make a shot, or get steam I hear it pumping but nothing comes out. Its heating up really good too I can feel it when I touch it. Pressure gauge shows no movement when pumping. What should I check first?
Is there water dumping into the drain pan? If so, it may be the 2/3 way solenoid is not opening fully and that's letting water from the pump run to the drain. Does it do anything different when you turn the hot water/steam valve? It could be that valve is mucked up inside and not turning. When that happens, water will run straight to the drain. You'll likely hear the water filling the drain pan and/or you'll see steam rising up through the bottom grate. Might also be a loose or plugged hose inside, loose hose would be leaking water out. Plugged hose could be checked by pulling a hose at a time and trying to blow through it.
@@The4Crawler thanks for responding, no water in drain area, no steam escaping that I can see. Its wierd, pumping sounds normal, no wierd buzzing either like when a selinoid is dying. I opened the back and the large hoses up top on the left near the steam knob look dry. I don't see any water drops anywhere
@@david029014 Check to see if water is getting into the pump and is leaving the pump.
@@The4Crawler how do I do that?
@@david029014 Pull hose off bottom of pump, see if it's full of water or not. Pull hose off top of pump, like where the over pressure valve is located and see if it's wet of dry. Here's a video on replacing the pump so you can see the connections:
ua-cam.com/video/i8GGZHKNxPo/v-deo.html
Hi Mr Brown,
i really like your Breville/Sgae Videos!
unfortunately, my machine has also been causing problems for a few weeks.
Maybe you can help me:
On my account I have a video that shows the noise that the machine makes before pumping. please take a look at it!
But the problem does not always occur. Sometimes the machine runs normally.
I have now already replaced the 3 way solenoid valve --> problem is still there :( Do you have any idea what could trigger the malfunction? would like to repair it.... (do you think it is a hose clogged so that the pump sometimes does not get water??)
Thank you!
Best reguards Markus
That sounds like the "pre-infusion" part of the cycle, that's where the pump is putting out lower pressure/flow to wet the coffee grounds before starting the high pressure part of the cycle. Mine will vary in sound at that time, especially with the new pump I put in. Some time it is very quiet before the pump ramps up, other times it's closer to the sound level of the fully running pump.
But it's worth looking inside, check hoses for leaks and clogs, both coming into the pump and leaving the pump.
@@The4Crawler Thanks for the quick reply!
I have already had everything open, checked everything and as mentioned also already replaced the 3 way solenoid valve. Unfortunately without success. It still hums before the pre infusion and meanwhile it pumps unfortunately also nichtmehr properly.
Do you think the pump is the problem?
@@markuswunsch833 If an obvious source of the problem is not apparent, then swapping parts, like the pump, may be a logical next step. Might also try disconnecting and reconnecting the wiring between the pump and the main circuit board as perhaps that was loosened while replacing the solenoid valve. If a new pump fails to fix the problem, then it may be a problem with the main circuit board.
Where to buy all the CEME parts??
I got mine from eReplacementParts, link in a previous video:
ua-cam.com/video/96IuKiuIB5A/v-deo.html
@@The4Crawler I have contacted Breville support instead to see if I can buy from them. Do you think the magnets are needed to clean the thing?
@@TooManyPBJs Yes, Breville is another option, just give them the part number. Magnets were used to hold the valve open to allow the cleaning solution to get into that part of the valve. May or may not be required but I surmised it would be a help.
Awesome video. What was the voltage you used to test the solenoids on your testing rig?
120 volt solenoids tested at 120 volts.
@@The4Crawler Thank you very much. i got my one rated at 240 V so my test rig would be at that higher voltage. You are awesome :-)
Yes, you would want to test that solenoid at 220-240V.
Is it not thermo "coil" ?!?!?!
Very interesting video. Thx.
Thanks for the clarification. I see it listed as "thermal block", "thermoblk" and "thermocoil" in the parts manual I found. I guess there are some subtle differences:
glo-gadget.blogspot.com/2018/07/thermocoil-vs-thermoblock-whats.html
Judging by the external shape, it may indeed be a thermo-coil. Whatever it's called, it's the thing that make the water hot.
I currently have my sage barista express in bits I have replaced the water pump still no water no pressure I now have my solenoid in bits on the table but mine is different to yours I can’t seem to get it apart to the degree you have mine is more plastic along the bottom should I just soak the parts in white vinegar reassemble and try again ? I don’t have an electrical component tester so can’t say if the actual solenoid is working or not
It sounds like you have the newer Ceme solenoids instead of the older Olab like I had. I've not had a chance to take those apart as I installed a new set of those:
ua-cam.com/video/yPZCZxlEU6Q/v-deo.html
You could try soaking them in vinegar and see if that helps. If you have access to a multi-meter, you can test the coil resistance, it should be in the 600-700 ohm range typically:
photos.app.goo.gl/F2wbg7D4ZdTWEhoMA
They are currently soaking in vinegar have been for a couple of hours I’m going to leave them for a while longer then reassemble , and try again 🤞🏼 thanks
Thank you for these videos! I have a question related to a Breville Barista Pro which is leaking through the hot water spout every time I use the steam wand. I took apart the steam selector valve and it appears that the water ate through the metal on the valve (some kind aluminum?)and the hot water, under pressure found a way though to the hot water spout. Normally the water would run from the hole in the Al body through a rubber gasket, to a selector made of two flat ceramic discs, one of which rotates and creates a path to either hot water spout or to the steam wand. I hope this makes sense. I made a video here: ua-cam.com/video/djzLa_9vurk/v-deo.html
Ideally I'd like to find a way to polish that surface and make the Al surface smooth but I lack the tool, plus that surface is somewhat below the valve body, so it would have to be a small tool. I can't see this happening.
The other idea I had was to replace this valve (not available anywhere to my knowledge), with two solenoid valves that would duplicate the functionality of this selector valve. I can use the voltage from the two switches on the valve to drive each solenoid to open the path to hot water or steam, and of course, have a permanently open path to the drain tube, which is what the original valve is supposed to do.
What would you do? Thanks in advance!
You could use something like the existing bank of solenoid valves to do that. Come into the 3 port valve, top runs to the drip tray when not powered. Then power that valve and water would go to the hot water spout. Then have a 2nd 2-port valve that would send the steam to the wand.
@@The4Crawler Thank you! In the meantime I realized that the original valve body has a fault. You're not gonna believe this but there was path open inside the metal between the hot water intake and the hot water out. I plugged it with a 2mm screw. A small amount of water still leaks through there. The machine worked as intended after this repair... well, to a degree.
As I pulled a bunch of shots I noticed that the times were always extremely short and I'd get A LOT of flow through the puck no matter how fine the grind was or how hard I tamped it.
So naturally I'm thinking the root cause of these issues is too much pressure coming from the pump through the OPV. Next step - hook up a pressure gauge to see how much pressure comes out from the OPV with a blocked portafilter. I'll use a cleaning rubber disc to block the flow.
I thought this was a cleaning video??
Yes, the solenoids were cleaned in the descaling solution. I didn't show them soaking for hours at a time as that would make a rather boring video. Perhaps you were expecting hand cleaning with brushes, etc. but in this case just letting the citric acid and soap solution soak into the inner workings seemed to do the job.
You can find a description of the flow here: wiki.jmehan.com/display/KNOW/Breville+Barista+Repair
Thanks for posting that link.