Thank you for that thorough run-down of Orca Slicer supports! We just got a new Bambu A1 in our house, and your video saved countless hours (and material cost) researching all of this myself.
OMG I’m so glad I found your channel. I’ve been 3d printing for about 6 months, and for the best part I’ve managed ok but I’ve struggled with slicer setting, and I’ve listened to many UA-camrs saying different things so ditched Crealitys version of slicer because it was really slow buggy, and don’t really help with supports so I downloaded Cura and although it’s better I still found myself frustrated with supports. So I decided to look up Orca and came across your video thank the lord and your explanation and intuition is fantastic and have definitely made me decide use orca just for the option to add the support where I want them to be instead of having to use blockers. So Thank You
Thanks. Sure thing. At the top left of the screen next to the "Printer" there is a cog wheel icon. It is located directly below the "Device" menu text. Click that and scroll down to the Creality printer section. Choose the model that most closely resembles yours and it should change the bed template automatically for you.
You should do a support being too aggressive or hard to remove and how to solve that I have an AnkerMake m5 and it does perfectly, and I was trying to move support orca or actually bonding to model
I'm wondering how you are getting the advanced options for supports? I can just enable supports and pick basic options like tree (normal), tree (manual), normal (auto), and normal(manual)? Nothing like you have such as base pattern spacing, top interface? I had more options when I was using flashprint.
bed temps are related to your filament settings in Orca. Next to your filament click the "edit preset" icon. On the first tab, scroll down to the bed temp section.
You can try copy/pasting this in the end g-code box. Do a small test print and make sure you watch it at the end in case anything funky happens. I found it here, so try this at your own risk. medium.com/@drjonesy/sovol-sv07-plus-setup-7303e083f74b G91 ;Relative positioning G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z G1 Z1 ;Raise Z more G90 ;Absolute positionning G1 X0 Y200 ;Present print M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
I don't see one floating around, but they may add one in the next release. Honestly, the fastest path at this point might be to select the existing Neptune 4 profile that exists then just edit the print volume in the profile. Once an official profile is released you could add that one.
thank you for the video. I am trying to transfer my cura setting to Ocra, but the print time for the same part is 20-30min longer. I am not sure what I'm missing. any help would be great. thank you
Hi there. Happy to try and help. In Orca, make sure in the preview to switch over to the speed view. This will show you the relative speeds per layer/structure and can help identify where you might be able to make some changes. Are you printing a single part or multiple parts on the bed?
i can not stop this orca from printing brims even when its set to none. nothing i do n the brim tab changes the brim, its like its stuck at a fat brim hats attached to my parts. any idea?
@@fischer3d thanks for that, nothing would stop it until i did a reboot of the software then it was ok but i have a fresh problem that's a complete stopper for me to use the software, i guess I'm either unlucky or just a magnet to bugs, but when i print in this slicer my print layers do not line up at all, every layer is about 0.5 mm to one side. imagine a deck of cards nicely in a stack then slide them from the top to one, side that's how my prints turn out, unusable, i just wish simplyfy3d had the fuzzy print. I'm using an ender 5
That depends. What printer do you have? You likely don't want it to go home (if that's the front left corner of your machine). There's a very high likelihood that the head and/or x gantry will smash the model you just printed. Generally at the end of a print you want the hotend to raise up and the bed to move forward (assuming you have something like and ender 3 / bed-slinger type machine). Next to your printer name in Orca, click the "Edit Presets" button. Click on the Machine G-code tab and look for the "Machine end G-Code" section. This is where you can specify what the machine does at the end of the print. Let me know what machine you have and maybe i can point you in the right direction.
How do I lift an object off of the build plate (i.e. turn off plate snapping) so that I can add supports underneath? I don't want any part of the object actually touching my build plate.
You can't as Orca requires a part of your object always touching the build plate. The workaround is to add a primitive and assamble it with your print. That way, the primitive is touching the build plate, and you can move your print into a "floating" position. At least, that is what I found out.
When I slice without support the model is solid. When I add support the layers alternate. Meaning if there’s support, there’s no model. If there’s model, there’s no support. Really confused. Can't print until I figure this out.
Seems very strange. Will be hard to troubleshooting over youtube comments. let's setup some time to have a zoom and look it over. Can you pick a time on my calendar and we can set a zoom call. I have some time today if you want to dig into it. calendly.com/fischer3d/1-on-1
So here is my problem. I have an error in the bottom left of my screen that says, " Line Width Too Small" and I don't know what to change it too. This is my second day with the printer so go easy on me please.
no worries. What type of printer do you have? What nozzle size are you using? First thing to check is under the Quality Tab, scroll to the "Line Width" section. If you're printing with a 0.4 nozzle all your width settings should be in that neighborhood. You could see settings ranging from 0.4, 0.42, 0.5, etc.. If you've got something that is drastically below your nozzle width, that would be my guess is the culprit.
@@fischer3d you are exactly correct!! Hahah!!! For some reason I was thinking I was printing at 0.02..... so yeah I adjusted it to 0.4 which is what my nozzle is and bam! Works perfectly!!! Much appreciated my dude! I guess I was trying to print items for an ANT rebellion ahahaha!!
I get that but when you branch off another product typically they make the interface look a little different but this one looks identical. Like slapping a ford emblem on a Ferrari. not complaining, just saying it like I see it :) @@fischer3d
@@MrBrianwilliams1980 Orca slicer is an open source community project that adds many new features to bambu slicer (which is itself a fork of prusaslicer, which is itself a fork of slic3r). The UI in bambu is good, it would be silly to change it; prusa didn't change the UI when they forked slic3r for example. This how open source works.
Thank you for that thorough run-down of Orca Slicer supports! We just got a new Bambu A1 in our house, and your video saved countless hours (and material cost) researching all of this myself.
Great, this is one of the best explanations of support features (for any slicer) that I have viewed. Thanks for the time you spend on Orcaslicer.
OMG I’m so glad I found your channel. I’ve been 3d printing for about 6 months, and for the best part I’ve managed ok but I’ve struggled with slicer setting, and I’ve listened to many UA-camrs saying different things so ditched Crealitys version of slicer because it was really slow buggy, and don’t really help with supports so I downloaded Cura and although it’s better I still found myself frustrated with supports. So I decided to look up Orca and came across your video thank the lord and your explanation and intuition is fantastic and have definitely made me decide use orca just for the option to add the support where I want them to be instead of having to use blockers. So Thank You
Your Orca slicer content is awesome! Thank you for sharing your wisdom and time, you're a legend!
Hello from the future. I’d love to see how you tune your filament profiles in Orca Slicer. Great content 👍👍
Thank You for the help. Timely for use with Creality K1C.
Thank you great video, new to 3D printing, what other videos could you suggest for a first timer to any of this? Thanks!
Orca is the best slicer for the K1 and K1 Max.
do you have a video on support blockers?
Great video thx, can you tell me how you changed your build plate template to creality?
Thanks. Sure thing. At the top left of the screen next to the "Printer" there is a cog wheel icon. It is located directly below the "Device" menu text. Click that and scroll down to the Creality printer section. Choose the model that most closely resembles yours and it should change the bed template automatically for you.
You should do a support being too aggressive or hard to remove and how to solve that I have an AnkerMake m5 and it does perfectly, and I was trying to move support orca or actually bonding to model
I'm wondering how you are getting the advanced options for supports? I can just enable supports and pick basic options like tree (normal), tree (manual), normal (auto), and normal(manual)? Nothing like you have such as base pattern spacing, top interface? I had more options when I was using flashprint.
you have the "Advanced" Toggled on, correct? On the Process header section section.
Nice name by the way.
@ I did not. Thank you so much for your help!
would love to know how to set bed temp
bed temps are related to your filament settings in Orca. Next to your filament click the "edit preset" icon. On the first tab, scroll down to the bed temp section.
@@fischer3d brilliant thanks again
I’ve got sv07plus running klipper
You can try copy/pasting this in the end g-code box. Do a small test print and make sure you watch it at the end in case anything funky happens. I found it here, so try this at your own risk. medium.com/@drjonesy/sovol-sv07-plus-setup-7303e083f74b
G91 ;Relative positioning
G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit
G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z
G1 Z1 ;Raise Z more
G90 ;Absolute positionning
G1 X0 Y200 ;Present print
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed
M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
I just bought NEPTUNE 4 PLUS and I can't find the profile for ORCA or CURA5.6, could you help me?
I don't see one floating around, but they may add one in the next release. Honestly, the fastest path at this point might be to select the existing Neptune 4 profile that exists then just edit the print volume in the profile. Once an official profile is released you could add that one.
life saver. thank you very much
My Orca settings don’t have the regional setting, but it has remove small overhangs?
thank you for the video. I am trying to transfer my cura setting to Ocra, but the print time for the same part is 20-30min longer. I am not sure what I'm missing. any help would be great. thank you
Hi there. Happy to try and help. In Orca, make sure in the preview to switch over to the speed view. This will show you the relative speeds per layer/structure and can help identify where you might be able to make some changes.
Are you printing a single part or multiple parts on the bed?
@@fischer3d Single parts, I will take a look at speed view. thank you
Cura times are way off anyway. So if orca is close to the actual print time its not as far off as it shows
i can not stop this orca from printing brims even when its set to none. nothing i do n the brim tab changes the brim, its like its stuck at a fat brim hats attached to my parts. any idea?
click over to the Objects setting (Next to the word "Process"). Check to see that Brims aren't enable in the Object settings.
@@fischer3d thanks for that, nothing would stop it until i did a reboot of the software then it was ok but i have a fresh problem that's a complete stopper for me to use the software, i guess I'm either unlucky or just a magnet to bugs, but when i print in this slicer my print layers do not line up at all, every layer is about 0.5 mm to one side. imagine a deck of cards nicely in a stack then slide them from the top to one, side that's how my prints turn out, unusable, i just wish simplyfy3d had the fuzzy print. I'm using an ender 5
Exelent materiar Dear!!!! you have a like!!
ive one last question
how do you make your printer go home after prints finished as mine just stops on print
That depends. What printer do you have? You likely don't want it to go home (if that's the front left corner of your machine). There's a very high likelihood that the head and/or x gantry will smash the model you just printed. Generally at the end of a print you want the hotend to raise up and the bed to move forward (assuming you have something like and ender 3 / bed-slinger type machine). Next to your printer name in Orca, click the "Edit Presets" button. Click on the Machine G-code tab and look for the "Machine end G-Code" section. This is where you can specify what the machine does at the end of the print. Let me know what machine you have and maybe i can point you in the right direction.
@@fischer3d printer g-code in orca says print_end
How do I lift an object off of the build plate (i.e. turn off plate snapping) so that I can add supports underneath? I don't want any part of the object actually touching my build plate.
You can't as Orca requires a part of your object always touching the build plate. The workaround is to add a primitive and assamble it with your print. That way, the primitive is touching the build plate, and you can move your print into a "floating" position. At least, that is what I found out.
I had a problem were the supports where so strong that they were hard to remove from the part.
Nice! Thank you!
awesome thanks massive help
When I slice without support the model is solid. When I add support the layers alternate. Meaning if there’s support, there’s no model. If there’s model, there’s no support. Really confused. Can't print until I figure this out.
Seems very strange. Will be hard to troubleshooting over youtube comments. let's setup some time to have a zoom and look it over. Can you pick a time on my calendar and we can set a zoom call. I have some time today if you want to dig into it. calendly.com/fischer3d/1-on-1
Orca slicer is the new big player
How in the world can you change Orca to print Resin?
not sure it's possible at this point. Orca supports Marlin and Klipper firmware, but I believe most resins printers use alternate firmware.
So here is my problem. I have an error in the bottom left of my screen that says, " Line Width Too Small" and I don't know what to change it too. This is my second day with the printer so go easy on me please.
no worries. What type of printer do you have? What nozzle size are you using? First thing to check is under the Quality Tab, scroll to the "Line Width" section. If you're printing with a 0.4 nozzle all your width settings should be in that neighborhood. You could see settings ranging from 0.4, 0.42, 0.5, etc.. If you've got something that is drastically below your nozzle width, that would be my guess is the culprit.
@@fischer3d you are exactly correct!! Hahah!!! For some reason I was thinking I was printing at 0.02..... so yeah I adjusted it to 0.4 which is what my nozzle is and bam! Works perfectly!!! Much appreciated my dude! I guess I was trying to print items for an ANT rebellion ahahaha!!
Please cover avoid combing through walls and all the parameters should be in orca slicer I think it’s in quality
Why does this slicer look exactly like Bambu's Slicer?
It's a fork of Bambu. Bambu is a fork of Prusa
I get that but when you branch off another product typically they make the interface look a little different but this one looks identical. Like slapping a ford emblem on a Ferrari. not complaining, just saying it like I see it
:) @@fischer3d
because it is bambu slicer
@@MrBrianwilliams1980 Orca slicer is an open source community project that adds many new features to bambu slicer (which is itself a fork of prusaslicer, which is itself a fork of slic3r). The UI in bambu is good, it would be silly to change it; prusa didn't change the UI when they forked slic3r for example. This how open source works.
Thanks u so much, i really apreciate this video
Cant hear you what did you say
Audio is too low?
This was really long winded for the little explained. I expected some tips and tricks not just explaining the absolute basics.
LIKE THE VIDEO, BUT YOUR AUDIO IS TERRIBLE.