More videos in this series! * I Went to Guatemala to Learn Bootmaking, The Documentary: ua-cam.com/video/XCDwistu7jk/v-deo.html * The 10-Minute version of this documentary: ua-cam.com/video/mVrF_sn-1Us/v-deo.html * Everything Wrong With the Boots I Made ua-cam.com/video/igFov5hkC54/v-deo.html * How to make an ethical boot company: ua-cam.com/video/AMzjN2lrCwk/v-deo.html
The “handmade” thing is something you see a lot in many industries to give the impression of quality. Check out a Mercedes AMG engine placard. It will tell you the engine is “handmade” meanwhile there’s still a lot of automation even with huge bolt torquing rigs. Guitar manufacturers will tell you something is handmade when they still use CNC mills to make the bodies, necks, etc. then the craftsmen are there to just fit and glue/screw the parts together. Those are just two industries. The ironic thing is that generally less expensive examples of “handmade” items typically have the same amount of handwork in their construction.
I learned how to design sneakers when I was taking my internship years ago. And it was just a week of lectures on how to draw your own shoe into the last without the manual labor of putting in the sole and nailing the canvas or whatever into the last. Totally rushed. And I can say, you making it in 5 days, without even any knowledge of how it goes down, puts everything into perspective on how handmade shoes or boots are done. Hope you had a new appreciation of wearing your boots after the experience, because I totally did
Great video Nick! Can’t wait to see the critique of the Nick made boot. Also I had no idea of all the steps involved, I have a better understanding of why good boots are pricey.
Great job at completing the boot camp! Completely normal to be nervous and clumsy with the knife as a beginner. Delicate control and smooth cutting only comes after putting in many hours of practice. Understandably, the clumsiness comes from too much focus on your tool trying to apply too much force when cutting, hammering, and gluing. The key to good control is also intentionally managing how you hold the material. You can move the knife into the leather or you can move the leather into the knife. When you do both, you will reduce the strain on each hand, allowing for better accuracy and cleaner cuts. I noticed that sometimes you're just doing extra passes hoping for a better but random result. That's because you're trying hold the boot completely still and use maximum force with only the knife hand. It runs the risk of overcutting and injury. I used to cut myself all the time in the early days of crafting until I learn to control both hands. Just some knife tips, not trying to criticise too hard because you clearly put in a lot of effort.
The biggest benefit and aspect of handwelting vs Goodyear is that you’re able to carve the holdfast out of the insole instead of using glue to attach a linen rib. If handsewn with a linen rib/gemming, there is probably minimal upside to handsewn vs machine stitching. Handwelted with a holdfast carved insole does have a number of functional benefits and increased stability over GYW. There’s no glue involved in the main construction point, so no possibility of failure there and there are fewer layers of materials under your foot in a HW providing a closer fit and support on your foot.
Very interesting video Nick. I learned a lot. I had no idea that the Goodyear Welt stitching is not visible to the naked eye. Looking forward to seeing your video on the critique of the shoes you recently made…Hope all else is good with you…Ed
In Europe (and Asia I think) nearly all boots are leather lined. It seems to be an American preference to have unlined boots which is strange when you consider how much colder much of the States is in winter.
Very nice, at least at a distance the pair of blue boots looks great! Learned allot about boot making, I know Nicks has videos showing them making boots, maybe I'll check them out next.
ooof so many things: first of all, normally veg tan leather is actually easier to dye than chrome tan, because it gets less finishing treatment in the manufacturing and takes the dye better. that said, yes it is generally a bit less durable(takes more maintenance) at lower thicknesses and on more delicate leathers, like your goat skin. but that your leather ripps while lasting has a bit more to do with leather quality, technique and how well the upper fits on the last. also these pliers you use are actually pincers(designed for cutting things!) and absolutely not for lasting (i bet these bootmakers have learned with them so they can pull it off, but thats another reason why the leather breaks).
Lining isn't necessary but it is a nice touch. Normally dress shoes or boots have them while work boots such as Red Wing, Nick's,etc just line the vamp.
It's not that I didn't know it was extra work, it was more that I hadn't really thought about it much - also didn't realize how *much* extra work it was!
that said, if you need muscle for lasting something is wrong!! yea, if you last a double layer of heavy 3mm veg tan leather plus 4mm counter then you need some strength! but usually it just takes some endurance plus the right posture and technique and no more muscle than the average adult human can show for. that you gotta be ripped for bootmaking is a total myth, though it certainly trains your arms and shoulders!!
![Bespoke Shoemaking With Dominic Casey [ASMR] | Kirby Allison](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AOzuuBAaEZU/mqdefault.jpg)
More videos in this series!
* I Went to Guatemala to Learn Bootmaking, The Documentary: ua-cam.com/video/XCDwistu7jk/v-deo.html
* The 10-Minute version of this documentary: ua-cam.com/video/mVrF_sn-1Us/v-deo.html
* Everything Wrong With the Boots I Made ua-cam.com/video/igFov5hkC54/v-deo.html
* How to make an ethical boot company: ua-cam.com/video/AMzjN2lrCwk/v-deo.html
The “handmade” thing is something you see a lot in many industries to give the impression of quality. Check out a Mercedes AMG engine placard. It will tell you the engine is “handmade” meanwhile there’s still a lot of automation even with huge bolt torquing rigs.
Guitar manufacturers will tell you something is handmade when they still use CNC mills to make the bodies, necks, etc. then the craftsmen are there to just fit and glue/screw the parts together.
Those are just two industries. The ironic thing is that generally less expensive examples of “handmade” items typically have the same amount of handwork in their construction.
I learned how to design sneakers when I was taking my internship years ago. And it was just a week of lectures on how to draw your own shoe into the last without the manual labor of putting in the sole and nailing the canvas or whatever into the last. Totally rushed. And I can say, you making it in 5 days, without even any knowledge of how it goes down, puts everything into perspective on how handmade shoes or boots are done. Hope you had a new appreciation of wearing your boots after the experience, because I totally did
Great video Nick! Can’t wait to see the critique of the Nick made boot.
Also I had no idea of all the steps involved, I have a better understanding of why good boots are pricey.
Great job at completing the boot camp!
Completely normal to be nervous and clumsy with the knife as a beginner. Delicate control and smooth cutting only comes after putting in many hours of practice. Understandably, the clumsiness comes from too much focus on your tool trying to apply too much force when cutting, hammering, and gluing. The key to good control is also intentionally managing how you hold the material. You can move the knife into the leather or you can move the leather into the knife. When you do both, you will reduce the strain on each hand, allowing for better accuracy and cleaner cuts.
I noticed that sometimes you're just doing extra passes hoping for a better but random result. That's because you're trying hold the boot completely still and use maximum force with only the knife hand. It runs the risk of overcutting and injury. I used to cut myself all the time in the early days of crafting until I learn to control both hands.
Just some knife tips, not trying to criticise too hard because you clearly put in a lot of effort.
The biggest benefit and aspect of handwelting vs Goodyear is that you’re able to carve the holdfast out of the insole instead of using glue to attach a linen rib. If handsewn with a linen rib/gemming, there is probably minimal upside to handsewn vs machine stitching.
Handwelted with a holdfast carved insole does have a number of functional benefits and increased stability over GYW. There’s no glue involved in the main construction point, so no possibility of failure there and there are fewer layers of materials under your foot in a HW providing a closer fit and support on your foot.
Very interesting video Nick. I learned a lot. I had no idea that the Goodyear Welt stitching is not visible to the naked eye. Looking forward to seeing your video on the critique of the shoes you recently made…Hope all else is good with you…Ed
In Europe (and Asia I think) nearly all boots are leather lined. It seems to be an American preference to have unlined boots which is strange when you consider how much colder much of the States is in winter.
Very nice, at least at a distance the pair of blue boots looks great! Learned allot about boot making, I know Nicks has videos showing them making boots, maybe I'll check them out next.
I hope you show each step in the process of making the boot.
Love this video Nick, learned a lot!
Awesome Ralph, that was the goal!
How does dude not know that a lot of boots don't have lining?
yeah, I'd take a thick leathered work(style) boot over a wimpy lined leather boot any day...
I wish I had seen this video first...before watching the EPIC 4 hour full video! =p
ooof so many things: first of all, normally veg tan leather is actually easier to dye than chrome tan, because it gets less finishing treatment in the manufacturing and takes the dye better. that said, yes it is generally a bit less durable(takes more maintenance) at lower thicknesses and on more delicate leathers, like your goat skin. but that your leather ripps while lasting has a bit more to do with leather quality, technique and how well the upper fits on the last. also these pliers you use are actually pincers(designed for cutting things!) and absolutely not for lasting (i bet these bootmakers have learned with them so they can pull it off, but thats another reason why the leather breaks).
they will be my next pair of boots..
Prymrr should be invited to the factory . She high UA-cam and instagram engagement
Do all your boots have inner-linings?
Are inner-linings fundamentally necessary? Because I always rubbed throught mine quickly.
Lining isn't necessary but it is a nice touch. Normally dress shoes or boots have them while work boots such as Red Wing, Nick's,etc just line the vamp.
@@williammarshall468 Especially the linings of my vamps are affected.
It really pisses me off because you can't just fix this spot so easy
Hello from Greece
Yes gona be good my man as always !
this looks like fun
Very cool, dude!
Leather lining not being extra work?!? Come on dude!! I will gently challenge you on this. I think you knew this.
I’ve put a dislike because I think you’re being disingenuous.
It's not that I didn't know it was extra work, it was more that I hadn't really thought about it much - also didn't realize how *much* extra work it was!
Nice video!
that said, if you need muscle for lasting something is wrong!! yea, if you last a double layer of heavy 3mm veg tan leather plus 4mm counter then you need some strength! but usually it just takes some endurance plus the right posture and technique and no more muscle than the average adult human can show for. that you gotta be ripped for bootmaking is a total myth, though it certainly trains your arms and shoulders!!
For the longest time I was confused what a welt was and where the goodyear welt stitch was on a shoe/boot
Real life skills maybe something that should be taught in schools .