Probe Master vs Competitor Multimeter Test Leads
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- Опубліковано 5 лис 2020
- This video is about Probe Master vs Competitor Test Leads for your multimeter. How to find your best Multimeter Test leads. I will open 9 new probe kits including Probe Master, Fluke TL175E TwistGuard, Micosa, Handskit, Kaiweets, Wgge, Liumy and Sumnacon. I purchased these to show the comparison to Probe Master multimeter probes and I'll show some used probes to illustrate the wear that might be expected. #best test leads, #silicone test leads
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Part 1 of this video: • FLIR vs FLUKE High-End...
Links to Multimeter probes:
Handskit probe kit with silicone: amzn.to/2U0M4rZ
Micsoa probe kit with silicone: amzn.to/38kR9E6
Kaiweets probe kit with silicone: amzn.to/2I3ME69
Micsoa (low cost) probe kit with gold plating: amzn.to/352saTU
Goupchn (low cost) soft silicone like the Sumnacon: amzn.to/2Ic4Uds
WGGE probe kit with silicone: amzn.to/3n0Rrnq
Goupchn big probe kit (nicer than the one I showed): amzn.to/3mYt1Lf
UNIROI (low cost silicone like the Sumnacon that I showed); amzn.to/36fWFVT
Link to FLIR meters in Amazon:
FLIR DM92 multimeter: amzn.to/2ztKOXI
FLIR DM93 multimeter: amzn.to/3ebyASF
Amprobe AM570 multimeter link: amzn.to/3eurd8S
Fluke 117 multimeter link: amzn.to/2AhsEbA
Amazon Commercial 90DM030 multimeter: amzn.to/2Jl9yCT
Zotek multimeter: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dSJ...
AliExpress Store: bit.ly/3fkMlPb
LInk to Amazon Commercial 90DM610 multimeter. amzn.to/37VXe7E
or amzn.to/2Zdo8VU
Popular Links:
Micro-cap Tutorials playlist link: Micro-Cap • Micro-Cap
Boost Converter Introduction • Boost Converter Introd...
Power supply talk: • Power Supply Types and...
Link to Amazon for Boost Converter: amzn.to/32HOEFsY - Наука та технологія
![Probe Master 8043SK Review [2023]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IvTr10HnOV0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for mentioning the bit about cleaning with rubbing alcohol! I just got a Klein MM720 and I was disappointed with how the leads were performing (I compared them to a cheaper set of leads I have), but splashed some 99% rubbing alcohol on a microfiber cloth, polished them up, and it is performing leagues and bounds above what it was before that. You saved me some cash on getting new probes I didn't need.
You Bet! Thanks for your feedback!
Thank you!! Enjoy watching your videos. Always learn something new..
Thanks so much!
Hello sir. You asked me to give a review of the Probemasters when I got them. 8043SK. Ironically as soon as I touched them I knew I felt something different ...the silicone definitely felt different than any other probes. Very soft. The gold probes look top rate and the accessories definitely looked to be high quality. I gave all the gold contacts a quick clean. And they all worked well. What was really cool is that in the package from ProbeMaster I got a small copy of the US Constitution. So I put it in my bathroom. Good reading! :) I even thanked them for it too. :) Have a good day. When I get bored I watch some of your videos on tv. Always entertaining. Thank you..
Thanks so much for your feedback! Once you get a set of Probemasters you understand why people love them,
Retired engineer here and I live north of you in Idaho. Excellent test lead reviews. I like your long content format because I got the time now. :)
I watched several of your videos and you do a wonderful job.
Thanks so much 😊
I haven't thought much about my common test leads since my military days 50 years ago. It took a while in your video to answer my question of why so many silicon leads now -a days.
Thanks for your feedback! I do have some nice silicon leads that are also very affordable;)
I think this was the kit i was going to buy ! Good video Eddie!
Thank you!
Hi Eddie, great job and very interesting. Thanks for the video
You bet and thank you!
Wow it's very important for any power electronics engineer 😍🤩👌
Thanks - it sure is;)
@@KissAnalog welcome sir
Thanks. I love the probemaster on my cheap meter. I’m going to buy some probes from you list.
Thanks Danny - much appreciated!
Fantastic video. UA-cam can be great for conveying information that you really can’t read out of a spec sheet. Seeing these side by side to compare how the cables flex and how the accessories fit together is essential to a being able to make an informed selection. Thanks for doing this.
I did have one instance where I had leads that would not interchange between meters. I has given a half dozen of those little DMMs that come from harbor freight, and I’d take them to work or use them out in the garage. The cheap leads on those meters always break in time, so at one point I went and grabbed another set of leads from another seemingly identical meter, but the leads would not go into the meter. It turns out that the leads I grabbed had a full shroud on the banana plug and the lead that broke had a shroud that only covered about 50% of the plug. Scoring and breaking off half of the shroud allowed it to fit into the meter, and it could still be placed back on the meter it came from when I was done.
I have never had this happen on any reputable meter. Only the harbor freight giveaway meters. It was surprising because the meters were the same brand and looked almost identical.
Thanks Chris! I appreciate you!
First off really enjoying the channel. Enjoyed seeing the hot tub repair . Everybody has different ways of trouble shooting. I like seeing how you come to your solutions.
One thing I would like to see is your design process on power supplies. From sketching it out on paper. Figuring out what components to use and putting it on a bread board and testing it.
Currently using a set of 8 dollar wisefield leads. I mainly use them to calibrate 4-20 ma output signals. or check fuses and basic voltage checks. 120 Volts is the max I work with. The electricians at work all use Fluke leads.
Thanks Ton Magnum! I will do a bunch of videos on Power Supply design - from scratch. I will start a new series very soon. Thank you for the feedback on which probes are used by the electricians. I think the wise field leads are just fine;)
Another excellent video!
Thank you! Cheers!
Hey Eddie. Great video. Thanks for that. And all I can say: me too! I love the probe masters. Use them almost every single day. Have a bunch of them apart from a few from Fluke. The Flukes are really great, the PMs are even greater. I also use a set of different tips that can be mounted at the top of those Probe Masters. They are so sharp, the cables are so soft. Resistance is really small compared to many others. So, ultimately my day-to-day favourite test leads. Quality is very good and the price worth.
I'm with you - when you work often with equipment - you just want what you want;) I do think that people buying inexpensive meters should not buy probes that cost as much as their meters. They should use that money and buy better meters;) I might just do a rant on this;)
@@KissAnalog You are very right. Agree. I am not a fan of those too low budget meters mostly because for safety reasons and accuracy. If probes are more expensive than the meter - doesn't make much sense indeed. I love my Fluke and Brymen meters.Have a few of them (too passioned for meters ;) And for those the Probe Masters are excellent. Figured out even the probe coming with my Siglent SDM3065DX are surprisingly good.
The high resistance on the new leads could also be an oil coating that is applied to slow corrosion until it is opened. The gold plating is also corrosion resistant so would not need a coating.
Great point - thanks!
Thanks Eddie!!!
You bet! Thank you!
You have made some strong good points. I think a few of your videos have mention where people try to start a fire with their leads to test continuity. That started with Dave Jone's videos on how to think of the quality of multimeters. The whole idea of fast continuity is to trace two unknown points in a circuit. For example you can quickly put one lead on ground and run the other lead over the pins of a very large IC and find the ground point(s) within seconds without a schematic. You might miss the correct point if your meter has a slow continuity. I like the idea of twisting the leads; I have used that technique as well. Over the years, I have bought some horrible test leads, and yes, I have cleaned them with varies cleaning solutions. I also had some that I had to sand first. In most cases, this idea has worked. I'm glad that you have shared this to the public. Thanks for a good review.
Thank you Electron One, and I think you are correct on where this started, but I think it grew into a thing - that actually made others who are just copying the master;) but are not talking or explaining what continuity testing is really meant for and how absurd this 'fast' beep really is. I need to do a rant now;) I'll do this video - and I'll probably upset some people;) But I am here to teach and hopefully help the community become better;)
@@KissAnalog Over the years, I have watched several UA-cam channels. It seems that each one of the technicians, DIYer, hobbyists, or engineers has something great to add to the collective knowledge. When I serviced cranes, I had to use a cheap craftsman multimeter for a week--no problem; my good meter(s) was left at my house a couple hundred miles away. I never switch the meter from one setting to another without disconnecting it from the circuit. I use clamp meters to test large currents; therefore, I never blow my fuses in my meters. It's a matter of technique and experience. Gee, for years, my first meters in the field was Radio Shack type meters. And when I started there was no CAT rating. Most meters of that time didn't even have fuses on the "high" current side. How did we survive?
@@KissAnalog Did you ever make a video on this ?
Because of you I got on the Probe Master site and I ordered the 8043SK. I seriously considered the retractable but I went with the right angle.
Thanks for the feedback! Please let us know how you like them;)
Love it
Thanks so much!
Gawd, I love Eddie!
Thanks!
So I watched the entire 81 minute video. Where did you say I enter my information for the $50 Amazon gift card?
Yeah!! Finally, a video long enough to find a cup of coffee and a blanket:-) I do really like your review, great idea with the "zoom" made a big difference and helped a lot! :-) May I ask on how they do compare to standard leads you get with a dmm? Oh, and is it true that the Bryman top dmm comes with some really great leads?
LOL!!
I had no idea how to make this short, so after spending too many shots at this, I finally just did it;) I did show one standard lead set in there...or did I edit it out? ;) I think the standard leads just need a cleaning, and then they are fine.
@@KissAnalog What I like about you and your channel is among a lot of other things, the fact that we are invited down into your show where you are eager to teach us. It's kind of casual and not so self-important as some channels do make it. I think you shall just let it flow and let you slowly get your own style over time. Instead of trying to be "the right style" to fulfill some expectation should you maybe just say F it and just make the video and see how it goes. Or as you say Kiss:-)
The lack of conductivity on the new tips might be from the release agent used to mold the handles. Another thing to mention, the sleeves on the meter end of the probes add protection from high voltage arcs to the user. I got a little nibble one time when using an old analog meter. I don't recall what I was measuring, but the voltage was high enough to make the jump.
Great point! I didn't think of the release agent. That makes total sense. Thanks for the feedback - I'll have to remember to talk about high voltage.
Thanks again boss, I use a fluke meter that was given to me, I love that thing, the leads that came with it are fluke and super long which I like. But maybe time to change 😀 is there such a wide margin in scope leads?
Thank you - and great question! I have a video on scope leads I’m going to get out next week:)
Nice summary and reviews. I love my probemaster, but even the second cheapest PVC is better than the old, crusty gutta-percha rubber from pre 1960's. The shroud on hte banana is a pure safety feature, as is the plastic tip to the plug (rather than bare metal). There are a number of things, involved, including incompletely inserted plugs, which happens for a number of reasons (carelessness, accidental pulls on the lead, ports that are less deep than standard, or have crud in them, for example), leaving exposed metal. They also prevent (when non-retractable) things sliding between the meter body and the plug coming into contact with live metal, like the blade of the utility knife you just cut off the friction tape with. Then there are cases where you need to swap leads or connect leads when they are connected to the circuit under test. Many years ago, I worked on gear with big, high current, plug-in current shunts (1000A. They were plugged in to test ports while live and wedged between sprung buss bar sections) and hot gloves were required. These days, there are designs that don't require grabbing live metal to jack them in. The other reason for the shroud is CAT-III and CAT-IV rating. The shroud (non retractable) increases creep distance, which is very important at higher voltages in wet or dirty environs. I know a number of people that have been bitten with older meters on 440V gear. The worst were the old stab-pin types (older Triplett 630, for example. Great meter, terrible jacks)
Thanks for the great feedback!
I'm on a mission for multimeters. For years I've had a Simpson 260-8XPi, Fluke 87V & 179, and lately I've been stumbling around UA-cam for DMM reviews and found your channel. I'm getting used to your style finally and appreciate your efforts.
I've ordered a Bryman BM-869s from TME and a Keysight U1282 w/the IR/BT adaptor from Mouser. Tempted to buy a Flir DM93. Really want a high-end Gossen, but their website is a little confusing. Still trying to target which model to get...oh and to the point of this video, purchased the 9117 Test Lead Combo Kit (w/72" leads) from Probe Master. Looking forward to using them.
Thanx again, look forward to more videos...I'm a PSU & Audio Amp repair hobbyist in my free time.
Thank you Boyd! It looks like we have similar hobbies!! You have some great meters! I have a new meter that I am reviewing that you might find of interest. Let me know what you think;)
@@KissAnalog I received the Brymen BM869s this morning and the Probe Master test lead kit an hour or two ago. Love 'em! The Keysight DMM is scheduled to arrive tomorrow.
I have a few DMMs still on the purchase list from Gossen, Yokogawa, Hioki and Sanwa. Maybe a Fluke 289 or Uni-Trend's data logging offering if either ever update. I'm having fun researching handheld DMMs. Always just used industry standard Flukes for known reliability and electrical safety conformity, assumed they were the only decent meters out there...
Looking forward to your new review video of the mystery meter! 😀
I love my Probe Master test leads. I have the regular and the spring loaded ones. The spring loaded ones are nice with clean PCBs but as soon as there is some flux residue it's hard to penetrate through.
Thanks BeamFinder! I totally agree! I had some of the spring loaded ones at work because no one else wanted them, but I found them to be a pain at times, so I eventually stopped using them too;)
I ordered the first PM set when I realized my Fluke leads read 6 ohm and were sabotaging my work... I then measured all my leads and only the Probe Master ohm out
56.39min was awesome
Thanks!
@@KissAnalog welcome
Hi Eddie, Great review..Not sure you look at coments on older videos but on the chance you might, I have a question.. For yeras I used various alligator clips and there was no issues. Now these Asian alligator clips are difficult to steady. Maybe the cover is teflof but I just cant grab them and clamp onto something without really fighting them The metal slips inside the plastic cover to the point of annoyance. Is there a better alligator clamp out there???
Thanks !!
That's a great question! The low cost leads often seem to have this problem which it seems to be some material left on the metal or plastic. I find it helps to use alcohol to clean them. The Kaiweets seem to be made better. In the past I used Pomona (now the company that owns them is the same that owns Fluke and Amprobe). There is a brand that I will review soon but is not low cost and is German made (I believe).
Hi Eddie, great your reviews for newbie’s in electricity. Thank you! The grey overmould on the handles is either soft PVC(Polyvinylchloride) or TPE(Thermoplastic Elastomer). As mentioned by @URanInTheUglyForest the “oily” coating is probably mold release or it can be softener from PVC.
Thank you for the great feedback! I appreciate you!
After a few bad readings with a pair of newer china made fluke leads and I switched over to probemasters, that has been years ago and no problems since. The leads themselves didn’t appears bad at all, had connection issues where they plugged into the meter jacks, not one pair but 2. Hopefully they’ve taken care of it, maybe the plating was failing I don’t know.
Good info except for cleaning multimeter probes with alcohol. I just bought a set of test leads KET-12 from Kaiweets and their instructions for Cleaning and Maintenance say "Do not use alcohol, solvents or hydrocarbons"
They recommend to clean with a soft washcloth and some soapy water, then dry off quickly with a dry cloth or blow dry.
I wonder what affect alcohol has on the leads.
Thanks Larry! That's great info! I have used alcohol for a long time, but I do wipe it off well soon after applying. I wonder if the alcohol can break down the plastic if left on? I think i'll switch to a cleanser.
I prefer to use the Hirschmann PL 2600 with silicone cable.
Thanks for the video.
Thank you _ I didn’t know about them. They are super deluxe! Really expensive to buy in the states. But I might just have to get some to show everyone what top dollar pays for:)
Probemasters are great! I've got my $35 Probemasters on my $25 meter (Aneeg) and the system works great, reliable. Money well spent. When I use my fluke meter I move the promasters over to it. 👍
Thanks Sean! Probemasters are great;)
Hello there, new subscriber here. Thanks for the video. I had a quick question for you. Where can I get those Sumnocon leads from? The squishy white handle ones. I’d really like to get a pair. I ordered the ones you have a link for in the description off of Amazon. The Goupehn ones, and got them today, but they are just not the same. They are grey, not white (I thought the white was neat just because I don’t have any that color). Also they don’t feel soft on the handles or the 90 degree plugs. The tips don’t come off; the gold plated sharp tips just slip over the regular ones. The wires however, do feel like a pretty nice silicone. Anyway, not that I need any more test leads, lol, but I would really like to get a pair of the ones you have in the video. I hope you can help. Thank you.
Sorry about that, I’ll edit my list. But I think they are the same as the UNIROI at the bottom of my list.
@@KissAnalog thanks for the quick answer. Also, not a problem at all. You can never have enough test leads (if only my wife understood that, lol), and for 12 bucks, these are pretty nice. Not as soft of a silicone as my Probe Masters; but like you said: Probe Masters are probably the best, or at least at the top of the list. I’ll check out the ones you just mentioned at the bottom of your list. Thanks again, and keep the great videos coming.
@@KissAnalog just wanted to say thank you for pointing me in the direction of the UNIROI leads. I just received them about 20 minutes ago, and I have to say I am impressed. These are some pretty nice leads, and for $8, wow! I guess UNIROI thought so to, because I just went on my Amazon app to grab my younger brother a pair, and now they are $16. Lol. Anyway, thanks again.
The invisible film on the probe tips is likely to be mold release spray. I used to work in a plastics plant and they spray the mold with
it so the parts will release, but its a semi good insulator apparently, ive had to clean it off as well.
Thank you! Thats great information!
I have to say,the nicest leads I have ever used & owned are the Uni-t utl16's they are 16AWG silicone rubber & the probes are vinyl,they are amazing,I challenge ANYONE to try them,you will NOT be disappointed,just note they have straight banana plugs,not elbows.
They sound great! Did they come with a meter or purchased separately? If they come with a meter - which one?
Just a heads up! I recently purchased the Kaiweets "Silicone Kit" that you have linked in the description. The leads look just like the ones you showed, but they're cheap PVC leads and are labeled PVC. It looks like they pulled a bait and switch and are now using PVC, even though both their site and Amazon listing advertise that they're silicone. Customer service will not respond, and I'm having to file a chargeback with my credit card company.
Thanks for the feedback Corey. That’s terrible! I received another test lead kit that was perfect - but I am sorry to hear that they have swapped out the good leads:(
I would like some non self-tangling test leads. No matter how carefully I coil my leads and stow them in my lead bag, they come out tangled.
Do they get bored in there and roam around?
Look for some youtube videos on how to coil cable and long extension cords. You twist each coil in the opposite direction as the one before it. Maybe it will work for these smaller cables too.
I've always made do with the leads that came with my Flukes, but I may have to get a set of those Probe masters, they look nice. I did notice that with my newest Fluke, the leads were kinda stiff compared to my older Fluke leads (same part number, different meter). Maybe they were just broken in and more flexible as a result. One had a burnt tip (repaired, wasn't too bad), so your not the only one, lol
I’m not sure about which Flukes come with silicone now, but it seemed like most of the ones I use come with pvc.
For some time now the "standard" Fluke probes (TL-75) have the PVC insulation, very stiff even at room temperature. It's embarrassing that those probes are included with a new Fluke. Feels like something that would come with a free Harbor Freight meter. I expect better when spending "Fluke money". The Fluke "Premium" probe set (TL-71) has the nice flexible silicone insulation.
Would be interesting to know with rise of a temperature how the resistance changes of all of them
Thanks Stanely - I'll have to do a video on this;)
What kind of work are you doing with this all equipments..?
I'm a power supply engineer - but also enjoy audio projects! It also helps with this UA-cam channel;)
18:24 Probe Master 8026S
54:52 Fluke TL175 TwistGuard
Thanks so much!
@@KissAnalog Thank you! (I ended up buying a 8026S after watching your video!)
I blew the tip off a probemaster lead and had to order a new red one hahaha. Fixing the smps on the first soldering station I told ya about. I've also noticed that the 550 dollar logic probe clips are no better than a pack of 50 dollar ones.....that come with a logic analyzer haha
LOL - yes I've done that a few times;) Working with power it is bound to happen to the best of us;) I agree about the logic probe clips - and sometimes I find the lower cost ones more robust.
Probe Master are not used as much because I don't think they are well known among the wider population of technicians. I started using them once I learned of them. They are reasonably priced, cheaper than Fluke more often than not. Even their pin adapter lead set is pretty low cost compared to others. I paid under $20 for a basic set of leads, and around $50-60 for the pin adapter lead set. Prices may have gone up over the last couple years though.
They offer customization on their website, so you can get the leads how you want them for your needs and equipment. Straight or 90 degree ends, shrouded or not... And other options, very nice feature there.
But in all honesty, most people are served well enough by the leads that come with their meters. As many people are not doing high precision, tight tolerance work or working with high energy circuits.
In the military, aircraft could have something like 600v at 400hz if I remember correctly. Good leads are important for things like that. Civilian aircraft are typically no more than 115v 400hz.
Thanks for your Feedback! I think many of the guys that I've worked with and myself have your opinion, that the leads that come with the meter are just fine. Also, the probe tips are so sharp that probing a circuit can cause problems. Every dent in a solder pad would need to be reheated.
Probe master prices have basically doubled since two years ago.
@@LeviBulger Considering the issues with global supply chains, inflation, and raw materials cost, I am not surprised.
I was looking at your bench and wondering where the Pomona set was. But I'll stick with Probe Master! I can order the leads any way I want them and their quality is unmatched IMHO. Their customer service is outstanding also. When I had a problem with a set of their leads, they paid for the return shipping.
Robert, I do have a bunch of Pomona stuff. I really like their products! I have a bar that I hang my leads over. I was going to make a different video on jumper leads and the other various leads that one might want on the bench;)
Sir, about your channel name. I'm thinking ahout Digital, and this channel says, Kiss my ass, Im analog. Hahaha. 😂❤
LOL - but I did do some digital logic videos;) I'll do some more if you like? ua-cam.com/video/eeze66UsJ4Q/v-deo.html
I wonder if they use a mold release chemical when making the test probes and don't clean it off completely and that's why they need to be cleaned to make good electrical contact.
Yes, I think that is what it is. It feels slippery but not really oily, and a little cleaning seems to be all it takes.
I work in quantum transport R&D and yeah we use fluke leads for the most part.
Thank you for sharing that!
Fluke leads are junk compared to Probe Master.
One set of my probemasters the gold tips retract into the probe to protect whatever you're poling at. I'm thinking about grabbing a set of Pomonas on sale.
Thanks Joey! I'm with you and I agree;) wait...Pomonas on sale;)
@@KissAnalog on Amazon. It's over now though haha. I've got enough probes to last me a lifetime anyway.
Sure people don't do that tappy continuity thing - but it's not entirely true to say it's a bad test. It can be a useful test. It can indicate strengths in other areas, don't you think? e.g. at least just for testing the response of a multimeter?
Thank you! You are right to point out that there is a time and place for about everything. But, I don't like to show that fire stick method as a standard way to review or qualify an instrument.
What is good probe leads length for bench and carry multimeter for basic projects?
Most leads come in nearly the same length (about 1 meter) but some are longer which are good for electricians working on equipment where the meter might not be close to the measurement. Some smaller meters come with short leads as I suppose the leads would look funny and would need a larger carry package if they were normal length next to a small meter.
@@KissAnalog and if you would want to buy Probemaster 8000 what length would you choose for bench work and carry size DMM? Thanks
I think the normal length for most probes are around 32 - 40 inches. Too long and then they get in the way, and then too short - the meter has to be placed closer than you might want, but the range above is typical I think.
Hello,
With any luck I can get an answer I need. Need spring loaded tips. Similar to a Square D Wiggy or Ideal Vol-con. I emailed the nice folks over at Probemaster and inquired if any of the leads they sold had a similar feature. I need to probe into any NEMA receptacle. I made that clear. The person replying stated that they do not make leads for NEMA receptacles. I specifically stated the ordinary receptacle found in any home in the US. I find that odd. Why would they completely ignore millions and millions in sales. I am an Electrician not a Technician. If I have to pull a device out to see if it's getting power that is wasteful of time. Do you know for fact if they do make a lead set that fits that criteria? Thank you.
As long as it ALWAYS works I am OK.
Also Fluke base lead set has about right length (4 ft). Many Chinese leads are way too short (from 2.5 to 3 ft).
The good way to fix tips coating on brand new cheap leads is to clean them with a pensil eraser.
Silicon coated leads are often less reliable because it's kind of hard to make a strong bond between silicon insulation and a probe/plug strain relief. So, sometimes wire gets pulled and damaged.
Thank You for the great feedback and information! I find that these days that most of the Chinese meters I buy have similarly length leads. Just about the same length as the Standard fluke leads. Although I have found some shorter by about 5 inches, but they come with the small meters.
@@KissAnalog It would be nice if you published here a table with the length of the cables and their real resistance in mOhms. Or I guess that could be another video with a discussion about optimal cable length.
I can't find any straight banana test leads on Amazon
If you go to Kaiweets store, they have a nice kit and you can use KA15 to get a 15% discount: kaiweets.com/products/kaiweets-ket05-multimeter-test-leads-kit-23pcs
Good explanation, but I was expecting you to measure the resistance in milliohms using a Kelvin probe.
Thanks John! I was worried that I already took so much time. But I did order a meter that is taking forever to get here and I just received kelvin leads. I’ll take measurements and if interesting, I’ll post a short video with the results.
@@KissAnalog Nice, yes, I do have interest, but you can do a "kelvin measure" using e.g.: 1.0A constant current and measuring the voltage drop.
The Handskit although being a good value doesn't fare that well in user experience as seen from the reviews on Amazon. I am looking for a new set that would include the Tweezer style probe and must include grabbers (I'm a grabber kind of guy.) I've got a couple sets of Pomona grabber test leads that are PVC and they are still going strong after about 40 years (!)
I know what you mean and l also like the Pomona brand leads. There is a link at the bottom of my list for the white looking probes. But, I need to add a new one that is the same with the accessories - I just ordered it and it should be here soon;)
How do you calibrate your leads to verify they are still good?
That's a great question! First thing is to visually inspect them to see if they look good. If they are showing cracks in the insulation, or the tips or plug in ends are looking bad then throw them out. If they look good and feel like they make good contact then short them together and check the ohms between them. You can also run current through them to see if there is any voltage drop.
@@KissAnalog I remember hearing that the OHms shouldn’t be higher than 0.1. Not sure how true that is
noob question and a bit tangential .. where can you find out the ampacity wire is rated for? most give a voltage and temperature rating but not how many amps and at what temperature is considered safe.
www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html try here! and if that does'nt give you the info you're looking for just search "AWG current rating" in google or whatnot and a lot will come up, pick and choose from there! hope that helps!
@@belfieldsucks thanks. I saw that too but I'm looking for ampacity not amperage. afaik, that is the maximum allowable amperage before heat causes the insulation to become compromised. I was basically wondering where such information is listed.
@@stevenspmd www.cerrowire.com/products/resources/tables-calculators/ampacity-charts/ i think this then!
I Peter, did you get your answer? I think #Jon Steiner was on point, so I didn't join in;) One thing I'd say other than verifying with AWG tables it your temp question, and I'd say that you never want to reach 60C IMHO on a cable. The wire will give you the temp rating, so choose something at say 105 or 130 C.
@@KissAnalog sorta, for cheap Chinese wiring the answer isn't so clear to me because 1) the number of strands seems to be a big factor for max amps threw the conductor. Cheap wire seems to use a high strand count like 252 but assuming all things equal (its just copper) that should be a simple calculation ... however for the insulator, I'm not sure the same is true, there no telling what plastic/silicone mixture they might have used. I was hoping for some sort of standard data sheet from the manufacturer but I haven't found any.
Once you use a Probe Master set you won't go back... You don't have to "Prep" them for first use. (Clean off non conductive coating and sharpen)... They are sharpened perfectly to get repeatable measurements through Conformal coating... They make your job/hobby so much quicker... The basic kits are $24... The accessories are also very high quality and the 9186 tips make SMD work so much nicer... The 9000 series leads have hard handles.. If you paid the money for high quality meters, why wouldn't you want the best leads? Pomona is the only other set I will buy... They make an awesome tweezer set...
Thanks for this feedback! Many brands that sell the more expensive meters (say $150) come with nice silicone test leads. I love my Flir, Testo, and Amprobe leads. I agree, it makes the meters so much nicer to use. I think all meters especially over $300 should come with silicon leads.
@@KissAnalog Yes Sir! Happy Troubleshooting!
I love my gooey probemasters, but I do a lot of vintage gear, and sometimes I just need a decent set of leads I can get quickly, but I have so much trouble finding leads with straight banana's on them.
My probemasters, I get without the safety Shield and just the straight banana. I love that. But I'd like five or so more sex that don't need to be that expensive. I don't know maybe I'm not looking in the right spot
DANG METER TEST LEADS! Recently became the biggest pain in my patootee on account of certain quality from a certain country being passed off as 'industry standard". My experience FWIW is watch out for sudden really bad voltage drop effects that come about when some new test probes have aged for a year maybe 18 months. It comes down to the conductor strands not being real copper but coated aluminium and the internal connection to the probe tip or banana plug breaks down. The other issue is that folding the test lead through a tight arc & the so called 'silicon' outer insulation cracks open to reveal the low grade conductor internally.. Also its very easy to cut the insulation with your thumbnail !!! For test leads pay the bigger bucks & source from reputable suppliers and get something that remains nice & flexible plus reliable over years with good selection probe tips.
This is great feedback! Please if you have any specific brands that we should be aware of - let us know. I've been luck so far. I do hate the idea that they are seeking in aluminum for copper if that's the issue. grrrr
enjoyed watching your video today very good thanks so much. tried looking up the sumnacon however cannot find their test probes kit anywhere in stock. but they are pretty leathal looking so maybe that is why if they were removed from sale. then what a shame!
still am deliberating over which probe master jack style because the company doesnt give dimensional specs! so god only knows what is the plastic diameter on the safety banana plug. whether it will fit or not my dmms.
anyhow just wanted to say thanks and btw there is another eevblog member on youtube who is making his own 4 point kelvin probes. which are challenging things to machine but he is excellent and very gifted at that being also a machinist. you can find some videos under his username ROBRENZ. really cool, a bit over my head but still quite some amazing stuff
Thanks so much!
Maybe these leads are what you are looking for? amzn.to/3wyQ4nf
Standard for 10amps equivalent of 18SWG
Great feedback - thank you!
@@KissAnalog thank you dear
Thing you are removing with alcohol is rust and scratch protection oil
Thanks for your feedback! The metal on the tip of the leads should be clean from any substance. They are tin or even gold plated, so no worries about rust.
The two characteristics of the EE UA-camr: they can talk for an hour and a half about test leads; they have so much test equipment on the bench that there is no room for an actual project!
The white set look like the best, but I have to view the video again to find out which they were! Suggestion: put a text overlay with name and approx price identifying the item you are talking about at any given time.
You did not mention the other big advantage of silicone - it does not melt or worse burn when you accidentally touch with your soddering iron!
Suggestion to the makers: instead of providing four separate end protectors, mold them all as one piece. This way they are less likely to get lost and they keep the leads together. Do it right and the cable could be wrapped round the molding for super-neat storage. Anyone who does not like this could easily cut the four protector caps off.
One thing I really hate is the crocodile clips with the single flexible shroud. Guys, that just does not work! The individual plastic insulation on each jaw is better, but the jaws still always get bent out of alignment. Time for a re-think: How about a flat serrated surface on one side (like one jaw of needle-nose pliers) and a sharp needle probe on the other. That way exact alignment would matter less and you'd get a large contact area combined with good grip.
Thanks John! You have some great suggestions! I'll put the name and price as you recommend - great idea - seems obvious now that you mention it;)
I agree with the accessories and jaw designs. It seems like a redesign is way over due. I get frustrated with bent jaws and having them pop off if they are bumped the slightest. I think your serrated surface makes a lot of sense!
BTW, I did mention that silicone is good when you hit it with your soldering iron, but I know the video is long so you might have missed that part;)
I do like the white ones, but I can't find that brand in stock now on Amazon. I think these are the very same under a different name, but about the same price.
ua-cam.com/users/redirect?q=https%3A%2F%2Famzn.to%2F36fWFVT&v=i4IvB90jZxs&event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqa0xuLVhoZnBSNEtpQjV2RjUyMXlFM2FrVEF4QXxBQ3Jtc0trZHg4VVNqYXd3amdlOEdSbjItNnhfOXJ1QnBGX2hXZG9NS3M4TENscnlqbTc5VnJCZE1JVERVS0RheWdmaXVVY1oyY3h4YVFUa2lCbGVHWi1mSksxcUtlcVN3QVV4VU1WbThldU9fZG1kbmxEWXUzTQ%3D%3D
@@KissAnalog Those ones seem to be out of stock too now - the sales power of Kiss Analog! I'm in the UK and these Neoteck branded ones look to be the same:
www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07XMK97N8?pf_rd_r=7EN0B2AXKXJP1932JSNT&pf_rd_p=e632fea2-678f-4848-9a97-bcecda59cb4e
Pomona's have the stacking feature.. Check them out.. Similar to Probe Master.
Great point! Thank you!
I had to come back to this.....YES....Fluke stock leads suck! A $6-800.00 meter with shit leads! I love Probe master for most things. I also like the ones Peter over at TRX lab uses; check his out. They have a needle tip,are mostly rigid but are only sold in Germany. They have a "support" ring to push against during use. I would be interested to know your view on these.
Yes I agree - thanks for your feedback! I just posted a new video for a low cost silicone lead set that does come with pin point tips in an assortment of tips. Great leads at around $19: ua-cam.com/video/56bVFqX-Vm0/v-deo.html
I have probemasters and a set of a brand called bionso from Amazon. Other than the probemaster feel the other leads are great. I paid 70 cad after tax.
Thanks for your feedback! There are a lot of great options on Amazon;)
@@KissAnalog I sent you a discount code for probemasters on patreon. It's only 10 percent good till the end date of the month. I don't want it maybe you or someone you know will.
@@KissAnalog Eddie, you probably think I'm a pest but I just love nerding out on this stuff. I sent you a patreon message that should interest you. A gift for the channel.
I think a lot of leads (not the probemaster and fluke) in this video are made by a chinese brand named cleqee and can be found pretty cheap on aliexpress:
cleqee.nl.aliexpress.com/store/1810103
I would have liked to see how all of these testleads would have performed resistance wise.
So for example put a 10A or 20A current through them and measure the voltage drop, and maybe look with a flir camera if there are hot spots indicating bad solder or crimp joints.
I also have my doubts if those 10A leads are 18awg (especially the chinese ones).
Thank you GuidoK!! That is great info! I'm sorry, I knew the video would be long so I only took one test that would be fast;) I will do a current test and post the results in a 'short' video;) I'll also do a milliohm test. I just receive my meter a few days to late... ;) thanks for this great feedback!!
40:00 Probably the smallest wrench in the world :-)
Ps: if it looks like gold, but is very cheap, it's probably not gold, but brass.
The price of gold is seriously increased the last years and is at the highest since 2012.
LOL I totally agree! It makes me want to try it out)
i think fluke uses PVC for safety reasons.
it probably does a better job that silicone to prevent accidental fatality.
Thanks for the great chance to set the record straight. PVC is low cost and silicone is more expensive. Silicone is the choice for high voltage applications. Silicone is the preferred choice of insulation when price is not the first priority. IMHO - Fluke's standard leads are just cheap and stiff. Fluke's best and most expensive leads are silicone - so that should tell the story.
Yes, I have come to that conclusion. However, I still believe that they chose PVC for a myriad of reasons. Having a silicone insulated wire that has stiff wire with fewer strands might actually have a higher risk of developing a break in the silicon. Silicon might be a poor choice in that circumstance. I dont really know I am improvising some possible sense behind the reasoning other than just "cutting costs" as the reasoning
It is just a cost consideration. Silicon is better. Fluke's more expensive leads are silicon. Every one that sells leads will use silicone for the more expensive leads. Other brands provide silicone for their more expensive meters. Fluke used to but now they are all about saving money. People will buy Fluke no matter what. IMHO
Ill bet its some kind of mold release agent on there causing issues!
Thanks - I think you are right - but it is easy to clean off;)
Probe Master are good, but fluke is good enough. Even cheap probes can get the job done
Thanks - that is true. I did a video for my best low cost probe: ua-cam.com/video/56bVFqX-Vm0/v-deo.html
did this man say he worked in 'space'? Or 'base'?
LOL I did work in projects for Space applications. I worked on Power Supplies for the International Space Station for example.
@@KissAnalog nice man. 🤙🏻
Um, all probemasters are 100% silicone not PVC. Not sure where you got yours from. I've had several sets over the years, always silicone.
The ones that are PVC, I got from probe master many years ago;) At some point they must have just decided to go all silicone. Even their lower cost leads are silicone now. Too bad Fluke doesn't follow suit and impress the entire community.
1:10:00 those leads look like 16awg instead of 18 actually!
Thanks for your feedback and pointing that out. It is possible but 16 AWG is big, but it is hard to read, so it's possible.
To me the FLUKE test leads bundled with their "cheaper" (0-300) offerings are just plain sad.
I have seen em and i have handled em, The cable being coated with that cheapass unyielding PVC isolation is pretty much just a spit into the customers face, and what personally bothers me are those thick ass point covers or whatever you call em tho thing are just weirdly chunky.
I would have hoped that at that pricepoint fluke would have sprung for some slightly better leads.
However I find that most of those "Horrible" lead are pretty ok considering the multimeters pricepoint of those things.
I think it is supposed to be the TL-75
Also i don't have anything against PVC but it could just ne so much better.
I agree - they are the worst lead IMHO. BTW, it is not just the sub $300 meters that get these. You get the TL75 leads with the 84V, so you don't get the nice silicone TL175 leads until you go for the 87V max which is a hefty $588.99.
Sad thing is - the company that owns Fluke also owns a great test lead company Pomona Electronics, so they could provide great leads easily.
It isn't even that they are PVC, it must be the composition. I have other PVC leads that are great and almost feel like silicone.
@@KissAnalog yup friend has pomona and they are pretty good, it is truly disappointing.
It definitely has to be some sort of low quality PVC because i too have seen better leads that that and they were PVC not silicone.
Thanks!
was watching an electrician who made a fun video about tools from Wish, and he bought a multimeter that read ok but then smashed it due to it not having 'real' safety ratings, ok i can live with that it maybe didnt have any real hv protection, but he also went off on a little rant about the probe leads not being double insulated??? what was he expecting 2 different colors of pvc or something i have never in 40 yrs of the hobby seen double insulated probe leads on any meter i have bought, just a single red or black insulation..
itsh amashing how justh a little bit of alchohol makesh the differensh...
Thanks - it really is:). I think that there is a plastic mold release agent that needs to be cleaned off:)
Buuuut.. what about cables with detachables probes, so you can put crocodile clamps and other stuff on?
Some of these were in kits that had those things. Since this video I have found some more great options - at a nice price too...
@@KissAnalog Are you gonna make a video about it?
Theyre called "Micsoa" not "Micosa"
LOL thank you - I always mix that one up;)
Such a long video.
Who is the winner?
After all that work on the video - who do you think the winner was?
I don't get to see side by side comparison of resistance of all wires or even a chart.
Who was the winner in that side by side category?
Well, when you were just about to say where you've purchased the "SUMNACON" probes from,........ you studently stopped and started talking something else and never came back to the original statement.
Thank you! Sorry about that. All the probes that I have recommended are out of stock:( But these look to be very much the same and about $13 amzn.to/4aXmo5w
@@KissAnalog Well....yesterday I've had a parcel delivered from Japan containing my (second) brand new HIOKY 4282 that I absolutely love to bits. It it well beyond expectation and it came with a fantastic pair of gold tip probes so, I won't be needing a new set of probes. Thanks for the link anyway. Great video by the way. I really liked it a lot.
Probe master sucks every set I’ve bought have broke or quit working there meal nice when there new but they don’t last long.
I know lots of people think they are the best, and they do look great. I didn’t know about their long term use. I mostly use what comes on the Fluke meters (PVC) which is what they get at work with the $500 meters:( Lately I’ve been using the FLIR and testo leads and I like both of them. Oh, and the other set that gets a lot of us is the low cost silicone leads that I reviewed back a bit ago. They are amazing especially for how low cost they are.
You say "I don't know" too much.
Sorry about that. But - did you learn anything of value?
@KissAnalog not really, it kind of ran on a bit. I make my own leads from Belden or Mueller wire and mostly Mueller connectors/ends. I have Probe Master and Fluke test leads, too. I've been at this a while; some of my meters have RCA and Weston on them.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks. I used to build leads the same way - with Mueller wire and connectors or Pomona parts;)