I look forward to the new video with the new jig! Good luck with it and keep up the great work supporting beginner woodworkers like me. Although I am certain that your videos appeal to experienced woodworkers as well.
Very timely video for me, albeit one year later than you made it! Thanks for taking the time to make the video and posting it. Just today I figured out how to shave a few mm off a 3" board, but your way is better! I was using clamps and double-sided tape and a lot of set up. I have some more boards to cut so I will try out your technique. I can use the same technique to convert 2/4s into useable 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 for planter legs. Thanks again! (Liked and subscribed.)
Your comment is very timely! For some time now, I have been thinking of ways to redesign the jig. Just this past weekend, I was working on a new kind of jig to cut 1.5" x1.5" square pieces out of a 2x4. I build a prototype and it works pretty well. I will try a few tweaks to the deign and keep testing. Once I get the details nailed down, I will probably make a video. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
I can definitely appreciate that. I have found that cutting large pieces using a circular saw is really not that difficult. Cutting small pieces; pieces that are narrower than the base of the circular saw can be challenging. To cut the smaller pieces, I wind up making some kind of a jig. Admittedly, my jig making skills need improvement but improvement is made each time I make a new jig. An alternative to making a jig to use with a circular saw is to cut the smaller pieces using hand tools. Using hand tools can be very rewarding (and safer, cheaper, quieter, less dusty) so if you haven't tried them, I do recommend you give it a try. I think using hand tools well comes down to how well you can hold the piece you want to cut. I generally use clamps, a vise, sacrificial scrap pieces you can cut into, and dead weight (I often use concrete blocks) to hold pieces. I did make a 3 part video series about how I replaced my table saw using a circular saw. Here's the link to part 1: ua-cam.com/video/ujMxPkuzDYY/v-deo.html . Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Agreed. Cutting the 2x4s would probably be easier using a bandsaw (instead of a circular saw). The best way to make the cuts would probably be by using a table saw. If you watch my videos, you might remember that I got rid of my table saws a while ago in favor of using a circular saw. That's what brought me to try and make these cuts using a circular saw. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Can you install a block of wood as fence under the other side of shoe/plate making it double-sided fence? that will be much easier to rip longer 2x4 lumber? This will make it track the width of 3.5 inches with the blade right in the middle.
That's a excellent idea which I had not thought of! If I try that, I'll be sure to make a video about it. I have been thinking about trying to modify the rip fence that comes with the saw. I'm also thinking about other ways to hold the workpiece I'm cutting. I have future plans to cut many more of these sticks so that I can make a shelving unit for inside one of my closets so be on the lookout for more videos to come! Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Please advise on a hand plane jig to accurately thickness your circular saw cut stock. I need to make a sash window.looking to get 40x60mm stock, about 10 lengths at 0.5m.
Interesting question. I don't think I have ever seen anyone use a thickness jig with a hand plane. What I have seen many times is that a cut line is drawn on the stock. Then a hand saw (or circular saw or band saw or even a scroll saw) is used to cut close to the cut line removing most of the unwanted stock. Then a hand plane is used to plane down to the cut line. I have seen many examples where the hand plane is used to plane down to the cut line by watching the cut line as the planning occurs and making adjustments to where the plane is cutting. With each stroke of the hand plane and revaluating if you need to make any adjustments to where you are planning, with some practice, one can plan right up to the cut line. It does take some practice on some scrap to get good at this and develop the confidence to go for it on your project pieces. Having said that, I think most people put the practice in and learn to plan down to the cut line. If you wanted to make a jig to ensure that you hand planed to the same amount each time, I suppose you could build a jig that 1) holds the piece that needs planning and 2) restricts the hand plane from saving too much off your workpiece. To simply hold the workpiece, you could rest it against a stop(s). To keep the plane from saving off too much, the plane would have to ride along some rails which would not allow it to shave off any more material once the workpiece got to the desired thickness. This idea might work if you workpiece is narrower than the sole of your hand plane. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching and for the question; it was and interesting one.
@@ImaginethenMake thank you. I ensure hardwood jig base and guide rails are perfectly level and flat. Guide rails smooth hardwood, waxed. The body of the jig, two 4x2 s are level and these just get clamped to the hardwood based secured onto worktop. The face of the stock in contact with the hardwood base should be flat. Use a wide try plane blade eg 2 3/8 inch. Hardwood gets screwed onto table top. Will make it soon.
Yes and no. I drew the cut lines in the video so the viewer could see where I was cutting and for myself to verify that I was cutting a straight line. Funny enough, the 2nd cut line I drew was 1/16" off. In actual use, I agree with you; there is no need to draw the cut line just set the fence and go. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
I'm using a circular saw made by Chicago Electric and sold at the Harbor Freight store ( www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/power-saws/circular-saws/12-amp-7-14-in-circular-saw-with-laser-guide-system-63290.html ). The rip fence I am using is the one that came with the saw. I've had this circular saw for years and have found that it works well. I haven't used the rip fence much at all until doing this project. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
The challenge I gave myself was to figure out a way to safely cut these parts using a circular saw, not a table saw or bandsaw. (For woodworkers on a budget and short on workshop space, a circular saw is much cheaper and easier to store than a table saw or band saw.) Having said that, I am working on a simpler way to cut these parts using a circular saw - stay tuned. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
I look forward to the new video with the new jig! Good luck with it and keep up the great work supporting beginner woodworkers like me. Although I am certain that your videos appeal to experienced woodworkers as well.
Ingenious jig brilliantly demonstrated. It’s exactly what I need for a project I’m working on. Thank you!
You're welcome. I'm glad the video was helpful.
Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Very timely video for me, albeit one year later than you made it! Thanks for taking the time to make the video and posting it. Just today I figured out how to shave a few mm off a 3" board, but your way is better! I was using clamps and double-sided tape and a lot of set up. I have some more boards to cut so I will try out your technique. I can use the same technique to convert 2/4s into useable 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 for planter legs. Thanks again! (Liked and subscribed.)
Your comment is very timely! For some time now, I have been thinking of ways to redesign the jig. Just this past weekend, I was working on a new kind of jig to cut 1.5" x1.5" square pieces out of a 2x4. I build a prototype and it works pretty well. I will try a few tweaks to the deign and keep testing. Once I get the details nailed down, I will probably make a video.
Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Ingenious jig indeed.
Exactly what I needed . Thank you!
I'm glad you found the video useful. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Thanks for the info. Trying to find ways around buying a table saw due to cost and space.
I can definitely appreciate that. I have found that cutting large pieces using a circular saw is really not that difficult. Cutting small pieces; pieces that are narrower than the base of the circular saw can be challenging. To cut the smaller pieces, I wind up making some kind of a jig. Admittedly, my jig making skills need improvement but improvement is made each time I make a new jig.
An alternative to making a jig to use with a circular saw is to cut the smaller pieces using hand tools. Using hand tools can be very rewarding (and safer, cheaper, quieter, less dusty) so if you haven't tried them, I do recommend you give it a try. I think using hand tools well comes down to how well you can hold the piece you want to cut. I generally use clamps, a vise, sacrificial scrap pieces you can cut into, and dead weight (I often use concrete blocks) to hold pieces.
I did make a 3 part video series about how I replaced my table saw using a circular saw. Here's the link to part 1: ua-cam.com/video/ujMxPkuzDYY/v-deo.html .
Thanks for your comment and for watching.
I had the same issue with my circular saw from Harbor Freight, thanks for making this video!!
I just re-watched my video. I'm not sure what issue you are referring to.
Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Excellent video. I was just looking for a way to do this. Thank you very much
I'm glad the video helped you out.
Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Great idea! Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome!
Thanks for your comment and for watching.
That's very useful, thank you
You're welcome. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
this is super good.
Thank-you for your comment and for watching.
BANDsaw!
Agreed. Cutting the 2x4s would probably be easier using a bandsaw (instead of a circular saw). The best way to make the cuts would probably be by using a table saw. If you watch my videos, you might remember that I got rid of my table saws a while ago in favor of using a circular saw. That's what brought me to try and make these cuts using a circular saw.
Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Can you install a block of wood as fence under the other side of shoe/plate making it double-sided fence? that will be much easier to rip longer 2x4 lumber? This will make it track the width of 3.5 inches with the blade right in the middle.
That's a excellent idea which I had not thought of! If I try that, I'll be sure to make a video about it.
I have been thinking about trying to modify the rip fence that comes with the saw. I'm also thinking about other ways to hold the workpiece I'm cutting.
I have future plans to cut many more of these sticks so that I can make a shelving unit for inside one of my closets so be on the lookout for more videos to come!
Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Please advise on a hand plane jig to accurately thickness your circular saw cut stock. I need to make a sash window.looking to get 40x60mm stock, about 10 lengths at 0.5m.
Interesting question. I don't think I have ever seen anyone use a thickness jig with a hand plane. What I have seen many times is that a cut line is drawn on the stock. Then a hand saw (or circular saw or band saw or even a scroll saw) is used to cut close to the cut line removing most of the unwanted stock. Then a hand plane is used to plane down to the cut line.
I have seen many examples where the hand plane is used to plane down to the cut line by watching the cut line as the planning occurs and making adjustments to where the plane is cutting. With each stroke of the hand plane and revaluating if you need to make any adjustments to where you are planning, with some practice, one can plan right up to the cut line. It does take some practice on some scrap to get good at this and develop the confidence to go for it on your project pieces.
Having said that, I think most people put the practice in and learn to plan down to the cut line.
If you wanted to make a jig to ensure that you hand planed to the same amount each time, I suppose you could build a jig that 1) holds the piece that needs planning and 2) restricts the hand plane from saving too much off your workpiece. To simply hold the workpiece, you could rest it against a stop(s). To keep the plane from saving off too much, the plane would have to ride along some rails which would not allow it to shave off any more material once the workpiece got to the desired thickness. This idea might work if you workpiece is narrower than the sole of your hand plane.
I hope this helps. Thanks for watching and for the question; it was and interesting one.
@@ImaginethenMake thank you. I ensure hardwood jig base and guide rails are perfectly level and flat. Guide rails smooth hardwood, waxed. The body of the jig, two 4x2 s are level and these just get clamped to the hardwood based secured onto worktop. The face of the stock in contact with the hardwood base should be flat. Use a wide try plane blade eg 2 3/8 inch. Hardwood gets screwed onto table top. Will make it soon.
Good luck with your project.
I guess the line you drew was just for illustration. In real use we only need to set the fence and place the blocks that form a sort of jig.
Yes and no. I drew the cut lines in the video so the viewer could see where I was cutting and for myself to verify that I was cutting a straight line. Funny enough, the 2nd cut line I drew was 1/16" off. In actual use, I agree with you; there is no need to draw the cut line just set the fence and go.
Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Thanks for the video. Very simple to use. May I ask what brand rio fence you have?
I'm using a circular saw made by Chicago Electric and sold at the Harbor Freight store ( www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/power-saws/circular-saws/12-amp-7-14-in-circular-saw-with-laser-guide-system-63290.html ). The rip fence I am using is the one that came with the saw.
I've had this circular saw for years and have found that it works well. I haven't used the rip fence much at all until doing this project.
Thanks for your comment and for watching.
So complicated for nothing...
The challenge I gave myself was to figure out a way to safely cut these parts using a circular saw, not a table saw or bandsaw. (For woodworkers on a budget and short on workshop space, a circular saw is much cheaper and easier to store than a table saw or band saw.) Having said that, I am working on a simpler way to cut these parts using a circular saw - stay tuned.
Thanks for your comment and for watching.
#handyman #rip_Jig 2024.0815.1942
Thanks for your comment and for watching.