Sir do you have a video on how to adjust the throttle choke for 2001 gsxr 600cc ? When i start my gsxr in the morning and switch the choke on, mine does not work. I have to hold the throttle gas till it warms up.
Hi I got a gsxr 750 2010 when it's cold start good but when riding for a bit if I stop and go to start again it turns over like it's a dead battery but if I leave it for 5 minutes it's starts again could this be tps iv have battery checked and new starter motor put on plates help
Same took it out today and as I was riding my gsxr it bogged down and would not increase speed but if I let off a little bit, it went up by one or two mph
I wouldn't think it would cause a no-start, even being all the way to the top. Are there any FI codes? Do you have spark? Do you have fuel pressure? Did it just suddenly no-start or act up first?
The bike was idling a bit ragged, throttle response seemed a bit off and since I balanced the butterflies, I wanted to be sure the TPS was in adjustment as well for the owner.
I tried to ajust my tps on my gsr750 (basiclly the same setup) but no metter how far i move the tps my error code always remains" _C00"( always low), any idea what can cause it?
I know that this is late, but, for others reading; if your in-dash meter isn't moving, it is a hard diagnosis because if there is an issue with the TPS, you should be seeing a fault code C14. You may be moving the TPS too quickly, it is extremely sensitive to movement and re-reads the sensor at .4 second intervals. Other possibilities are that you have a TPS not moving with the throttle valves (possibly worn), a defective TPS, wiring issue or computer issue. The computer is extremely rare, but I mention it because it is a possibility after all other possibilities are eliminated. First thing to do is to sync the throttle bodies and set your idle to 1150RPM, that ensures that the TPS is starting in the correct position. Next, check for proper voltages at the TPS plug. If the voltages are 0, then check all connections for corrosion and wires for breaks. One critical note here; never use an analog voltmeter (one with a swing needle) on a computerized vehicle, you must use a digital meter. An analog can fry the computer. Voltage into the TPS is normally around 4.8 or slightly higher. Output at idle, should be 0.2V or less. At full throttle, it should be putting out around 4.8V or slightly less. As you move the throttle, the voltage should increase smoothly from the minimum to the maximum and back as you release the throttle. If it is jumpy or doesn't react immediately, you may have a bad sensor. If you are getting idle voltage but the voltage is slow to start to move with the throttle, you can also remove the TPS, and while the plug is connected and move the TPS manually to see if the line moves. This ensures that the TPS is actually moving and if you get a reaction doing this, it would seem to be an issue with the TPS not moving with the throttle valves, once again, possibly a worn connection between the throttle valve and the TPS. As I said in the beginning, this is hard to diagnose without having the bike and if you drive the bike and don't get a TPS fault code, it would seem that the TPS is working within acceptable parameters. Start with the basics; voltages, connections, wires or sensor, and work your way back to the more complicated, such as the computer or Dealer Mode not working correctly.
It has been a while, but, if I remember rightly, I used a short bit for a multi-tip screwdriver and either a 1/4" drive socket and ratchet or a wrench on the hex part of the bit. I am pretty sure it was the socket and ratchet.
First, be sure you are moving the correct unit and not the STPS. The TPS moves with the throttle, the STPS moves with the secondary butterflies controlled by the ECM. Then use a multimeter to check the resistance through the TPS as you move it. Unplug the TPS and probe the TPS. In idle position it should be about 0.8 Kohms and about 3.9 wide open. Also check the voltage coming into the TPS, which should be about 5V. With the TPS connected, the output should be between 1.07V and 4.12v as you move from idle to open. If you aren’t getting a variation, then the TPS is bad and if you do then it is probably a wiring or control unit problem.
Yes, it should be set if replaced. Any new part may not have the exact same resistance in the same position as the old. Basically, you are adjusting to compensate for wear and age in the throttle system. Bushings wear, idle screws may be off from years of throttle stops tapping them; even the individual throttle plates can be out of sync with each other for various reasons. Balancing the throttle bodies and adjusting the TPS resets the accuracy of the throttle system from idle through the throttle range.
When did it quit? (while driving, while idling, during warm-up, etc.) By "fuel is good", do you mean the injectors are firing or simply that there is fuel pressure? What is the fuel pressure? Is the spark in time? Is there proper compression? Does it try to fire at all? Hard to diagnose without being able to check things and not something common I have heard of.
I pull the fuel rail and witnessed all 4 injectors spray, after a new fuel pump was installed. It quit while i was riding. On a highway (scary situation)
I haven't checked compression. The bike ran fine before it died. No rough idle. It would rev just fine in neutral. Have the bike 3 years. Fuel relay is good. All the lights work. Only thing i can think of is timing or a bad ICU. Im leaning toward ICU because the bike ran fine before bogging to a stop and eventually wouldn't start again
@@313learch8 have you tried "Dealer mode" to check for codes? Is your secondary throttle valve working properly? If it is staying closed, it will choke the engine. It usually sets a code, but maybe your code system has issues. I would see if the injectors are firing. This can be done either by using a "node", which is an LED tool that plugs into the injector connector and flashes if there is a pulse or by pulling the injectors and placing each in a small cup or bottle and observe the spray pattern as you turn it over.
I got k6 750 and my most recent non start issue was starter motor brushes, replaced tham and now it starts with a passion :) after adjusting tps also, runs nice now.
Hey I have a 2007 gsxr 1000 new spark plugs new injectors filters and o rings new coils and my bike still running bad and don’t even sound like a true gsxr 1000 can you help me out please
My best advice is to do what I would do; a full troubleshoot, starting with the basics and working through to the more complicated. Start with compression, fuel pressure, and check all mechanical possibilities, such as a loose timing chain. Have you balanced the throttle bodies? A bad connection in the wiring harness can be a bitch to find and may only act up while running or driving. Even a bad ground connection can throw things off. Check all sensors for the correct ground, voltage and signal. Check the base ignition timing and timing curve if possible to be sure that is right. You can probably find a troubleshooting guide online that will help work through it. Be very careful, even a split-second misconnected test lead can blow a computer and don't use a test light around electronics. Troubleshooting electronics manually can be a bitch; it may be worth having the dealer scan and troubleshoot, but it can be expensive.
Sir do you have a video on how to adjust the throttle choke for 2001 gsxr 600cc ?
When i start my gsxr in the morning and switch the choke on, mine does not work. I have to hold the throttle gas till it warms up.
Sorry for dumb question but I'm new to working on my own bike. What did you turn to adjust, was it the top or bottom screw or something under that?
The retaining screws are in slots, so, once you loosen both retaining screws, you turn the housing itself.
@@lelandlewis7207 awesome thanks very much. I just got my first bike and been fixing it myself but still got a bit to learn
Is it in the same location on a 2003 gsxr? How would I know if the sensor went bad?
@@daleperkins4155 yeah 2003 is the same. I don't have the bike anymore but I read the code, you can look up how to check the code it's really easy
Hi I got a gsxr 750 2010 when it's cold start good but when riding for a bit if I stop and go to start again it turns over like it's a dead battery but if I leave it for 5 minutes it's starts again could this be tps iv have battery checked and new starter motor put on plates help
I have a 05 GSXR 750 and it bogs at like quarter throttle. Do you have any ideas?
My the same 😢
Same took it out today and as I was riding my gsxr it bogged down and would not increase speed but if I let off a little bit, it went up by one or two mph
Hi have 2002 gsxr 600 last 2 days seems to have hiccup at Idle would this be the issue?thanks
would an offset tps cause a bike not to start ? mine is at the top but my gsxr600 won't start.
I wouldn't think it would cause a no-start, even being all the way to the top. Are there any FI codes? Do you have spark? Do you have fuel pressure? Did it just suddenly no-start or act up first?
so what made you adjust your tps? were you having a problem at Wide open throttle?
The bike was idling a bit ragged, throttle response seemed a bit off and since I balanced the butterflies, I wanted to be sure the TPS was in adjustment as well for the owner.
I tried to ajust my tps on my gsr750 (basiclly the same setup) but no metter how far i move the tps my error code always remains" _C00"( always low), any idea what can cause it?
I know that this is late, but, for others reading;
if your in-dash meter isn't moving, it is a hard diagnosis because if there is an issue with the TPS, you should be seeing a fault code C14.
You may be moving the TPS too quickly, it is extremely sensitive to movement and re-reads the sensor at .4 second intervals.
Other possibilities are that you have a TPS not moving with the throttle valves (possibly worn), a defective TPS, wiring issue or computer issue. The computer is extremely rare, but I mention it because it is a possibility after all other possibilities are eliminated.
First thing to do is to sync the throttle bodies and set your idle to 1150RPM, that ensures that the TPS is starting in the correct position. Next, check for proper voltages at the TPS plug. If the voltages are 0, then check all connections for corrosion and wires for breaks.
One critical note here; never use an analog voltmeter (one with a swing needle) on a computerized vehicle, you must use a digital meter. An analog can fry the computer.
Voltage into the TPS is normally around 4.8 or slightly higher. Output at idle, should be 0.2V or less. At full throttle, it should be putting out around 4.8V or slightly less. As you move the throttle, the voltage should increase smoothly from the minimum to the maximum and back as you release the throttle. If it is jumpy or doesn't react immediately, you may have a bad sensor.
If you are getting idle voltage but the voltage is slow to start to move with the throttle, you can also remove the TPS, and while the plug is connected and move the TPS manually to see if the line moves. This ensures that the TPS is actually moving and if you get a reaction doing this, it would seem to be an issue with the TPS not moving with the throttle valves, once again, possibly a worn connection between the throttle valve and the TPS.
As I said in the beginning, this is hard to diagnose without having the bike and if you drive the bike and don't get a TPS fault code, it would seem that the TPS is working within acceptable parameters.
Start with the basics; voltages, connections, wires or sensor, and work your way back to the more complicated, such as the computer or Dealer Mode not working correctly.
how did you get to the bottom bolt to loosen in up i don't have enough room to put the tool on it ?
It has been a while, but, if I remember rightly, I used a short bit for a multi-tip screwdriver and either a 1/4" drive socket and ratchet or a wrench on the hex part of the bit. I am pretty sure it was the socket and ratchet.
What happens if it doesn't move at all. No matter what you do line will not move.
First, be sure you are moving the correct unit and not the STPS. The TPS moves with the throttle, the STPS moves with the secondary butterflies controlled by the ECM.
Then use a multimeter to check the resistance through the TPS as you move it. Unplug the TPS and probe the TPS. In idle position it should be about 0.8 Kohms and about 3.9 wide open.
Also check the voltage coming into the TPS, which should be about 5V. With the TPS connected, the output should be between 1.07V and 4.12v as you move from idle to open.
If you aren’t getting a variation, then the TPS is bad and if you do then it is probably a wiring or control unit problem.
What if you just replace it will you need to do any of this
Yes, it should be set if replaced. Any new part may not have the exact same resistance in the same position as the old.
Basically, you are adjusting to compensate for wear and age in the throttle system. Bushings wear, idle screws may be off from years of throttle stops tapping them; even the individual throttle plates can be out of sync with each other for various reasons. Balancing the throttle bodies and adjusting the TPS resets the accuracy of the throttle system from idle through the throttle range.
I have a no start issue. Fuel is good spark is good. Tps is good. Turns over but no start. Bike ran fine before it quit on me. No error codes.
When did it quit? (while driving, while idling, during warm-up, etc.)
By "fuel is good", do you mean the injectors are firing or simply that there is fuel pressure? What is the fuel pressure? Is the spark in time? Is there proper compression? Does it try to fire at all?
Hard to diagnose without being able to check things and not something common I have heard of.
I pull the fuel rail and witnessed all 4 injectors spray, after a new fuel pump was installed. It quit while i was riding. On a highway (scary situation)
I haven't checked compression. The bike ran fine before it died. No rough idle. It would rev just fine in neutral. Have the bike 3 years. Fuel relay is good. All the lights work. Only thing i can think of is timing or a bad ICU. Im leaning toward ICU because the bike ran fine before bogging to a stop and eventually wouldn't start again
@@313learch8 have you tried "Dealer mode" to check for codes?
Is your secondary throttle valve working properly? If it is staying closed, it will choke the engine. It usually sets a code, but maybe your code system has issues.
I would see if the injectors are firing. This can be done either by using a "node", which is an LED tool that plugs into the injector connector and flashes if there is a pulse or by pulling the injectors and placing each in a small cup or bottle and observe the spray pattern as you turn it over.
I got k6 750 and my most recent non start issue was starter motor brushes, replaced tham and now it starts with a passion :) after adjusting tps also, runs nice now.
at which rpm stroke need to go to upper position?
Hey I have a 2007 gsxr 1000 new spark plugs new injectors filters and o rings new coils and my bike still running bad and don’t even sound like a true gsxr 1000 can you help me out please
My best advice is to do what I would do; a full troubleshoot, starting with the basics and working through to the more complicated. Start with compression, fuel pressure, and check all mechanical possibilities, such as a loose timing chain. Have you balanced the throttle bodies? A bad connection in the wiring harness can be a bitch to find and may only act up while running or driving. Even a bad ground connection can throw things off. Check all sensors for the correct ground, voltage and signal. Check the base ignition timing and timing curve if possible to be sure that is right.
You can probably find a troubleshooting guide online that will help work through it. Be very careful, even a split-second misconnected test lead can blow a computer and don't use a test light around electronics.
Troubleshooting electronics manually can be a bitch; it may be worth having the dealer scan and troubleshoot, but it can be expensive.