For the non-contortionists among us, I can confirm that this can be done by removing the left hand vent and the 2nd vent piece attached at the back to get access to the ignition switch. See other vids on replacing the headlight switch on how to remove that vent. You need a T20. You still have to twist around to get a light and a very small flathead screwdriver in the space to unscrew those set screws holding in the ignition switch, but it is possible to reach both set screws from above. I couldn't see or feel that upper set screw trying to go up from underneath and this worked for me.
This is the method that I used on my '99 Porsche 911 C4 Convertible as well. Accessing the screws that hold the ignition switch in place by first removing the left hand vent channel becomes much easier than without doing that. Please note that there are 3 Torx T20 screws that hold the light switch in place; 2 to the side and 1 inside/behind the light switch that you have to remove as well.
This video saved me from $1500 bill at Porsche dealership! My car was acting like key was still in ignition after removing it and battery would drain. I am not mechanic, but fake it until I make it. It was a $40 part, and I had to saw my screwdriver in half to be able to access set screws. It would have been easier with a headlamp, but it took me 2.5 hrs with stretch breaks trying to contort and get job done with a flashlight. I just bought this 3 weeks ago, but I am on a Geo metro budget so thanks for this video :) New switch fixed the problem and when I take the key out now the car is no longer beeping like they key is still inserted.
Tim great video. I wached your video and did the job. The car is fixed 💯 percent. Just some tips that the video didn't mention. This job is not for a big person. Im 6ft 230 pounds. I could hardly fit under that dash. My body was hurting afterwards. Just a note. Also i wish this video explained how much of a nightmare those set screws are. Mine had red paint covering the head of the screw. Thank god you mentioned it was a regular screw because i had to scrape the paint off the screw that i really couldn't see. The one closest i really could not see and had to do it by feel. I happened to have that same exact screw driver you had and that was the right one for the job. I tried others but that one was the best. The second set screw i could not see at all. Totally did it by feel. It wasn't easy because the elbow of the vent duct is right in the way. I did it but again that was a nightmare. After the set screws the job is easy. I liked that you paid attention to how you took it out because it helped when you put the new one in. Thank you for this video. Stay well😊
Nice job! Thanks for posting. I'll be ordering one for my 2003 soon. I'd rather swap it out sooner rather than later. I've learned that a faulty switch can wreak havoc...
Note there are 2 different parts / part numbers based on the ignition lock assembly you have (I found this out when I removed the OEM switch on my 2000 986 and it was different than the part I ordered). They are slightly different in size and the yellow slot at the end seems to be oriented differently. I don't know how to tell which lock assembly or part you would need other than removing the ignition switch already in there. And yes, under the dash is a real PIA but doable. After about 4-5 times in and out I figured out which positions worked. For me it was head at the gas pedal work with right hand for the lower screw, head at clutch work with left hand for the upper screw. Thanks for the video!
The easy way to do it is to remove the driver's seat. It is just four bolts and you will be able to have a comfortable access. It is an easy job but it is a tight one....
I just did this job. Not so easy on a '97 Stuttgart build. The grub screws were Loctite'd and the light switch and trim had to come off to get enough leverage with a small ratchet to budge the screws. The #49B switch is very hard to find, only 2 available Australia wide and I got one. Porsche have an "improved" part as part of The Classic Care program at a cost of six fiddy and small change. That's AU$. It involves replacing the entire steering locking mechanism, imagine the work$hop bill!
My ignition has a few quirks: first is when I start the car it will normally spring back off the starter, but for mine I have to twist it back a centimeter to get the AC condenser started, second is I have to twist my key far to the left when I need to remove it. I’m wondering if maybe it’s just the ignition switch going bad where it can’t spring back, but not sure about the pulling out part
I believe my ignition switch is also going out as well because without turning the car on accessories mode or anything even inserting the key to turn the gauge cluster on all I have to do is turn on the headlight switch and the gauge cluster will come on like you’re turning the car on just from turning on the headlight switch I’m still kind of wondering if that’s my ignition switch going bad because it is a euro parts one Unfortunately or my headlight switch but both have been replaced a year ago today my money is on the ignition switch pelican parts as a magnetty morale ignition switch that looks to be the same even the same part number as the hero parts ignition switch and they say it will fit a 986 Boxster from 99 I wonder if that would last longer than the euro parts aftermarket switch
Mine was stiff at first. But make sure you reconnected everything. Worst case take it out and put the old one back in. The switch should turn without being installed. Also, make sure your steering wheel didn't lock it out. Good luck!
Anyone have any idea why my new switch (or the original one now) won't go all the way back in? Once I removed the original one, that cam popped out and now the new one won't go in all of the way.
The ignition switch is separate from the key/lock. It separates from the back of it. The key spins a little lever and that lever engages with the switch that was replaced.
For the non-contortionists among us, I can confirm that this can be done by removing the left hand vent and the 2nd vent piece attached at the back to get access to the ignition switch. See other vids on replacing the headlight switch on how to remove that vent. You need a T20. You still have to twist around to get a light and a very small flathead screwdriver in the space to unscrew those set screws holding in the ignition switch, but it is possible to reach both set screws from above. I couldn't see or feel that upper set screw trying to go up from underneath and this worked for me.
Awesome helpful tip! Thanks!
This is the method that I used on my '99 Porsche 911 C4 Convertible as well. Accessing the screws that hold the ignition switch in place by first removing the left hand vent channel becomes much easier than without doing that. Please note that there are 3 Torx T20 screws that hold the light switch in place; 2 to the side and 1 inside/behind the light switch that you have to remove as well.
This video saved me from $1500 bill at Porsche dealership! My car was acting like key was still in ignition after removing it and battery would drain. I am not mechanic, but fake it until I make it. It was a $40 part, and I had to saw my screwdriver in half to be able to access set screws. It would have been easier with a headlamp, but it took me 2.5 hrs with stretch breaks trying to contort and get job done with a flashlight. I just bought this 3 weeks ago, but I am on a Geo metro budget so thanks for this video :) New switch fixed the problem and when I take the key out now the car is no longer beeping like they key is still inserted.
Please send me $1500! Just kidding! Glad it was helpful! Have fun with the car!
Great video. I used a small blade nut driver insert. Worked great. Only took about 30 minutes thanks to this well done video.
Nice! Thanks for showing that. Under the dash is hard work.
thank you for uploading and sharing - those little flush screws are gnarly to work with
Those set screws were a task in itself. I never want to do that again!!
Tim great video. I wached your video and did the job. The car is fixed 💯 percent. Just some tips that the video didn't mention. This job is not for a big person. Im 6ft 230 pounds. I could hardly fit under that dash. My body was hurting afterwards. Just a note. Also i wish this video explained how much of a nightmare those set screws are. Mine had red paint covering the head of the screw. Thank god you mentioned it was a regular screw because i had to scrape the paint off the screw that i really couldn't see. The one closest i really could not see and had to do it by feel. I happened to have that same exact screw driver you had and that was the right one for the job. I tried others but that one was the best. The second set screw i could not see at all. Totally did it by feel. It wasn't easy because the elbow of the vent duct is right in the way. I did it but again that was a nightmare. After the set screws the job is easy. I liked that you paid attention to how you took it out because it helped when you put the new one in. Thank you for this video. Stay well😊
Nice job! Thanks for posting. I'll be ordering one for my 2003 soon. I'd rather swap it out sooner rather than later. I've learned that a faulty switch can wreak havoc...
Note there are 2 different parts / part numbers based on the ignition lock assembly you have (I found this out when I removed the OEM switch on my 2000 986 and it was different than the part I ordered). They are slightly different in size and the yellow slot at the end seems to be oriented differently. I don't know how to tell which lock assembly or part you would need other than removing the ignition switch already in there. And yes, under the dash is a real PIA but doable. After about 4-5 times in and out I figured out which positions worked. For me it was head at the gas pedal work with right hand for the lower screw, head at clutch work with left hand for the upper screw. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for this video. I’ve got a 996 that may need this done soon.
A small PITA but not horrible to do!
Nice work on that coin mech err ignition mech um.. switch ; )
Sweet set of wheels Tim.
Ha...next we take apart that ignition switch!
The easy way to do it is to remove the driver's seat. It is just four bolts and you will be able to have a comfortable access. It is an easy job but it is a tight one....
Thank you for your help
I just did this job. Not so easy on a '97 Stuttgart build. The grub screws were Loctite'd and the light switch and trim had to come off to get enough leverage with a small ratchet to budge the screws. The #49B switch is very hard to find, only 2 available Australia wide and I got one. Porsche have an "improved" part as part of The Classic Care program at a cost of six fiddy and small change. That's AU$. It involves replacing the entire steering locking mechanism, imagine the work$hop bill!
My ignition has a few quirks: first is when I start the car it will normally spring back off the starter, but for mine I have to twist it back a centimeter to get the AC condenser started, second is I have to twist my key far to the left when I need to remove it.
I’m wondering if maybe it’s just the ignition switch going bad where it can’t spring back, but not sure about the pulling out part
It sounds similar to mine, replacing the switch fixed it. Good luck finding one, they are used by VW, Audi and all use the part #4A0905849B.
I believe my ignition switch is also going out as well because without turning the car on accessories mode or anything even inserting the key to turn the gauge cluster on all I have to do is turn on the headlight switch and the gauge cluster will come on like you’re turning the car on just from turning on the headlight switch I’m still kind of wondering if that’s my ignition switch going bad because it is a euro parts one Unfortunately or my headlight switch but both have been replaced a year ago today my money is on the ignition switch pelican parts as a magnetty morale ignition switch that looks to be the same even the same part number as the hero parts ignition switch and they say it will fit a 986 Boxster from 99 I wonder if that would last longer than the euro parts aftermarket switch
Thanks
Changed it like you said but when I put the key in nothing append no ding ding and can't turn the Key!
Mine was stiff at first. But make sure you reconnected everything. Worst case take it out and put the old one back in. The switch should turn without being installed. Also, make sure your steering wheel didn't lock it out. Good luck!
@@ThatTimGuy my steering was lock, thanks, everyting is ok
@@lulululululu1752 good to know.
Anyone have any idea why my new switch (or the original one now) won't go all the way back in? Once I removed the original one, that cam popped out and now the new one won't go in all of the way.
Can anyone confirm if the engine can crank but not start if you have a faulty ignition switch? I have cranking, I have spark, but no fuel.
Did you have your tumblers keyed to your existing key? If not, how did YOUR key turn in the lock?
The ignition switch is separate from the key/lock. It separates from the back of it. The key spins a little lever and that lever engages with the switch that was replaced.
Thanks.
Haha yeah right , but you don’t show how you loosen those little bolts, that the almost imposible part of the job
I agree sir. Those nightmare screws are the job !
What about the key?
You retain the original key. The switch is activated by the key and sits behind the lock.
@@ThatTimGuy thank you so much