Keyhole slot holes - brilliant. Just brilliant. I used a 5/8” bit and drilled from the top. cleaned up a little with Dremel, turned out perfect. Mounted tabletop in my new Shop Fox W1888, could not be happier. Thank you SO much for posting!
I Did This Modification to my saw a couple years ago. I was worried the extra weight would make the side rails sag. I used electric conduit to make Braces that mount directly to the saws frame. Has worked out great for me no problems. I would recommend this router table add on to anyone.
I saw another set up like this but what he did was modify the router fence to attach too the saw fence. Even had the dust collection hook up. I found this tutorial great. I have the exact router table. Thank you for the help. 👍👍 and of course I subbed.
I've been scouring the web for a solution like this for my Craftsman 113 table saw. Since the Craftsman and the Rigid both have 27" tables, I'm fairly confident that this will work for the Craftsman. I also recently upgraded the fence system on my 113 to the Align-A-Rip fence, which is very similar to the fence system on the Rigid.
Im planning on buying the R4520 for my first table saw. This seems like a great way to integrate a router table into the setup to save even more space in my 2 car garage. Half of which is actually shared with a car. And the woodshop section is shared with a home gym.
Great router table top insert. I have a Rigid R-4520 with the same dimensions. I'll be on the lookout for the Bosch router table. I love it. Thanks for the video!!
Really appreciate the video. I ended up scouring (and waiting) facebook marketplace for an RA1181 router table due to this video and used the extremely detailed but concise instructions here to modify my R4512. There are a couple of videos on youtube with this same conversion but this is definitely the best one. Thanks!
I mounted mine where the fence is on the right side when you stand in front of the saw. This way I can run my material standing in front of the saw rather than behind it. It also works out better since you can use one of the existing mounting holes on the back rail
Just watched your video the day after I mounted this table in my old Craftsman table saw with the Align-A-Rip fence (also used on Ridged saws). I was pleased to find how well it fit as well as ease of converting. also decided to move switch to the left for router access. I too was thinking about making the fence easier to attach and remove. Love your simple idea, but don't have a CNC, so I think I'll just drill and file. I do like this table, but the track on the table only allows the original feather boards 3 fixed positions. So I went with 3/4, x 3/8 plastic T-Track inserts with a slot that expands when the screw is tightened ( just like using feather boards on the table saw). Now allows feather board infinite positions. I will probably use the same idea to make a miter slide for routing end grain boards. Any way, enjoyed your video.
I have the R4512. I was looking to put the router in it. I was at the point were I was going to make one. I built my other one and have used it for 6 years. When I saw conversion. I went and found a unit, and the rest is history. Hard to believe that the top and the switch components were made for this machine.
Thanks Robert... I enjoyed watching your approach to this install... I've had my eye on the RA-1181 for quite some time now. I happen to have the same Bosch router kit you have too...I have a RA-1181 coming to my local HD store as I type this. I own a Delta 36-725 hybrid table saw which is very similar to the RIGID R4512 except my F & R rails are 1.5" angle iron, so I'll simply be drilling ( 4 ) holes in each side rail. I will also drill out a key hole for ea. fence slot bolt... I like the CNC machine btw & overall you have presented an excellent presentation here... Thank you, Bill on the Hill, Vermont, USA... :~)
@@songma9617 Thanks, no I didn't as I do have a machining background, I did my keyholes freehand after the table was mounted & leveled out dead flat. I very carefully center punched my marks & slowly drilled up to the final dim. using several drill bits. ( six to be exact... )
Would it work better replacing the right wing of the table saw (providing you don't intend on moving it)? My thought is you could attach the router fence to the saw fence and cut the same way you would at the saw.
At 14:32 the router table overhangs the fence rails by about an inch, but at 14:35 the ends are flush, what did you do to make the table fit properly between those segments?
If you look at the before and the after, you can see the rails were initially lined up flush with the opposite side of the table. If you look at the opposite side (the one without the router table) after the install, you can see they are now short. I’m assuming he moved them over to fully accommodate the router table, but not sure why that would have more benefit, except maybe longer table fence extension...
A suggestion. I would think or assume that the only fence would be needed is table saw fence. It would only need some adaptable pieces to make routering operations easy.
Nope, you need a fence with a cutout for the router bit, as well as some dust collection, holding feather boards. The fences serve different purposes for sure.
Did you find the table top to be rougher than desired. I found that the edges and surface needed to be smoothed before use. I took 1000 grit and hand smoothed the surface and edges and hole rims. Then cleaned an applied Glide Cote. This made the top smooth and scratch less. Again thanks for you video.
Your comment @ 13:30 feels a little off the mark for a DIY channel. 🤷🏼♂ Love the end result though, this is very cool how almost seamlessly it fits! I wasn't sure I was gonna dig the removal of the fence stop at the end, but I think it looks good!
Planning to to just this with my router table. I wanted to ask why the key-hole opening wasn't on the back end of the fence slot? I rarely need the fence that far back from the bit, but I'm guessing you have a good reason. Thanks for sharing. Very informative!
It's just so I can remove it, that's all. I kept the original slots, but made it so I could do a "quick release" without having to completely undo the knobs.
@@RobertCowanDIY I understand your reasoning, I was referring why not the other end of the slot. I looked at my router table and now I see how the key-hole location is best where you chose. i don't have a CNC, so my method will likely involve a more "hands-on" method. Again, thanks for sharing
I just got mine installed today!! It works beautifully. What do you recommend to drill the fence slide key holes if I don't have a machine like yours? Also what diameter?
@@songma9617 Since my table was already installed on the saw, I used a step bit in a hand drill until it was the right size opening (might have been easier to use a drill press before it was installed). I also ran the step bit from underneath to square up the hole since it had a slight taper.
Since my table was already installed on the saw, I used a step bit in a hand drill until it was the right size opening (might have been easier to use a drill press before it was installed). I also ran the step bit from underneath to square up the hole since it had a slight taper.
Yes! I've seen people do this. I did like the fence that came with it though, with the dust collection, the MDF wings, etc. This was the quicker way to get to the goal, but you could certainly build up the saw's fence to do the same thing.
In combat robotics are there any rules about overly destructive bots in your typical insect classes? I've looked a fair bit but just wanted to verify with an experienced builder.
Where have you looked? There are rules available for most competitions. Check out my video, combat robot resource guide. It links to the most common rule sets, and all your questions should be answered there.
There are no rules for overly destructive robots. That being said if your robot is going to be at risk of breaching the arena, the Event Organizer might be someone to contact.
This is none of my business, ab cd, but I thought I'd jump in and answer your question anyway. :-) I used to build and fight heavyweight bots, and always found that an electrical fire was the worst thing to have to repair. Everything burnt black, drive belts and insulation gone, radio gear ruined, motors needing rewiring, batteries puffed up or exploded, ESCs melted, plastic components fused and warped... Yuk. In terms of impact damage from kinetic weapons, just hammering dents out of armour panels is easy enough. Replacing shredded wheels, tyres, drive motors and gear boxes is expensive but straightforward. I think the worst thing to fix mechanically is a twisted (steel) chassis, because EVERYTHING has to be taken to bits before you can get the body straightened out and the main drive running true again. Landing badly after being flung across the arena can cause worse damage than the initial hit. And the worst part of it is, even if you have a complete spare chassis and enough replacement bits to rebuild your robot, competition rules sometimes only give you an hour to do it! IMHO, having to forfeit because you've run out of time to fix your machine is the worst possible way to lose a fight.
I would have put the hole in the fence slot on the other end of travel instead of on the end near the bit. You might actually want the fence mounted at the end close to the cut.
Ah, not a bad idea. There was a reason why I didn't do that, and I can't remember why. I think it was just the position of the power switch and such, and maybe the feed direction?
Keyhole slot holes - brilliant. Just brilliant. I used a 5/8” bit and drilled from the top. cleaned up a little with Dremel, turned out perfect. Mounted tabletop in my new Shop Fox W1888, could not be happier. Thank you SO much for posting!
I Did This Modification to my saw a couple years ago. I was worried the extra weight would make the side rails sag. I used electric conduit to make Braces that mount directly to the saws frame. Has worked out great for me no problems. I would recommend this router table add on to anyone.
I saw another set up like this but what he did was modify the router fence to attach too the saw fence. Even had the dust collection hook up. I found this tutorial great. I have the exact router table. Thank you for the help. 👍👍 and of course I subbed.
I've been scouring the web for a solution like this for my Craftsman 113 table saw. Since the Craftsman and the Rigid both have 27" tables, I'm fairly confident that this will work for the Craftsman. I also recently upgraded the fence system on my 113 to the Align-A-Rip fence, which is very similar to the fence system on the Rigid.
Im planning on buying the R4520 for my first table saw. This seems like a great way to integrate a router table into the setup to save even more space in my 2 car garage. Half of which is actually shared with a car. And the woodshop section is shared with a home gym.
Great router table top insert. I have a Rigid R-4520 with the same dimensions. I'll be on the lookout for the Bosch router table. I love it. Thanks for the video!!
Glad you found it helpful!
I have the same saw, I bought the Ryobi router table from HD and simply trimmed it to fit the opening in the table top, works like a charm.
Really appreciate the video. I ended up scouring (and waiting) facebook marketplace for an RA1181 router table due to this video and used the extremely detailed but concise instructions here to modify my R4512. There are a couple of videos on youtube with this same conversion but this is definitely the best one. Thanks!
Thanks!
I mounted mine where the fence is on the right side when you stand in front of the saw. This way I can run my material standing in front of the saw rather than behind it. It also works out better since you can use one of the existing mounting holes on the back rail
Just watched your video the day after I mounted this table in my old Craftsman table saw with the Align-A-Rip fence (also used on Ridged saws). I was pleased to find how well it fit as well as ease of converting. also decided to move switch to the left for router access. I too was thinking about making the fence easier to attach and remove. Love your simple idea, but don't have a CNC, so I think I'll just drill and file. I do like this table, but the track on the table only allows the original feather boards 3 fixed positions. So I went with 3/4, x 3/8 plastic T-Track inserts with a slot that expands when the screw is tightened ( just like using feather boards on the table saw). Now allows feather board infinite positions. I will probably use the same idea to make a miter slide for routing end grain boards.
Any way, enjoyed your video.
I have the R4512. I was looking to put the router in it. I was at the point were I was going to make one. I built my other one and have used it for 6 years. When I saw conversion. I went and found a unit, and the rest is history. Hard to believe that the top and the switch components were made for this machine.
Right? It really does seem like it's made for it.
Thanks Robert... I enjoyed watching your approach to this install... I've had my eye on the RA-1181 for quite some time now. I happen to have the same Bosch router kit you have too...I have a RA-1181 coming to my local HD store as I type this. I own a Delta 36-725 hybrid table saw which is very similar to the RIGID R4512 except my F & R rails are 1.5" angle iron, so I'll simply be drilling ( 4 ) holes in each side rail. I will also drill out a key hole for ea. fence slot bolt... I like the CNC machine btw & overall you have presented an excellent presentation here...
Thank you,
Bill on the Hill,
Vermont, USA... :~)
Hey William--could you share how you drilled the key hole? Did you also use a CNC machines?
@@songma9617 Thanks, no I didn't as I do have a machining background, I did my keyholes freehand after the table was mounted & leveled out dead flat. I very carefully center punched my marks & slowly drilled up to the final dim. using several drill bits. ( six to be exact... )
Would it work better replacing the right wing of the table saw (providing you don't intend on moving it)? My thought is you could attach the router fence to the saw fence and cut the same way you would at the saw.
i like the keyhole slot cut, setting up something that gets that fence off fast is where im at now, in where/how to set the router table. :)
Did you screw all 3 sides into the table saw? There is no way that should flex down like that with weight applied. Please check that.
At 14:32 the router table overhangs the fence rails by about an inch, but at 14:35 the ends are flush, what did you do to make the table fit properly between those segments?
If you look at the before and the after, you can see the rails were initially lined up flush with the opposite side of the table. If you look at the opposite side (the one without the router table) after the install, you can see they are now short. I’m assuming he moved them over to fully accommodate the router table, but not sure why that would have more benefit, except maybe longer table fence extension...
I think it still has the overhang but the camera angle is just hiding it.
A suggestion. I would think or assume that the only fence would be needed is table saw fence. It would only need some adaptable pieces to make routering operations easy.
Nope, you need a fence with a cutout for the router bit, as well as some dust collection, holding feather boards. The fences serve different purposes for sure.
Did you find the table top to be rougher than desired. I found that the edges and surface needed to be smoothed before use. I took 1000 grit and hand smoothed the surface and edges and hole rims. Then cleaned an applied Glide Cote. This made the top smooth and scratch less. Again thanks for you video.
Yeah, it's fairly rough, certainly MUCH rougher than the cast iron of the table saw.
Your comment @ 13:30 feels a little off the mark for a DIY channel. 🤷🏼♂
Love the end result though, this is very cool how almost seamlessly it fits! I wasn't sure I was gonna dig the removal of the fence stop at the end, but I think it looks good!
I get your point, but it's my channel and if I don't want to explain something potentially deadly, it's my right.
I like the improvise to the detachable fence. Always a need to alter something straight out of the box.
Very nice, I have been looking at the cast iron ones but I’m not a pro so this does make more sense. Thx for the vid.
Sure thing. I'm pretty happy with it overall, there are certainly better router tables out there, but the price is good on this one.
Planning to to just this with my router table. I wanted to ask why the key-hole opening wasn't on the back end of the fence slot? I rarely need the fence that far back from the bit, but I'm guessing you have a good reason. Thanks for sharing. Very informative!
It's just so I can remove it, that's all. I kept the original slots, but made it so I could do a "quick release" without having to completely undo the knobs.
@@RobertCowanDIY I understand your reasoning, I was referring why not the other end of the slot. I looked at my router table and now I see how the key-hole location is best where you chose. i don't have a CNC, so my method will likely involve a more "hands-on" method. Again, thanks for sharing
I just got mine installed today!! It works beautifully. What do you recommend to drill the fence slide key holes if I don't have a machine like yours? Also what diameter?
Hey pmdmmarsden--did you figure out how to drill the key hold without the CNC? Any tips would be much appreciated!
@@songma9617 Since my table was already installed on the saw, I used a step bit in a hand drill until it was the right size opening (might have been easier to use a drill press before it was installed). I also ran the step bit from underneath to square up the hole since it had a slight taper.
Great video Robert! I too like the Bosch router table - I got the one that is MDF all around. This bosch aluminum table is sweet looking.
Glad this video was around i have exact same table saw, router table and router. Will be attempting same today
Can the router table be mounted on the other side of the table saw???
Any tips for making the key holes without a CNC machine?
You could just make a jig out of wood that allows you to drill a hole really close to the slot, then finish it up with a file, nice and simple.
Since my table was already installed on the saw, I used a step bit in a hand drill until it was the right size opening (might have been easier to use a drill press before it was installed). I also ran the step bit from underneath to square up the hole since it had a slight taper.
Nice and very convenient idea
Could you adapt the back side of the saw fence to be the router fence? Adding a split sacrificial fence that is quite deep should be relatively simple
Yes! I've seen people do this. I did like the fence that came with it though, with the dust collection, the MDF wings, etc. This was the quicker way to get to the goal, but you could certainly build up the saw's fence to do the same thing.
The table saw fence could also be used routing channels further from the bit than the stock Bosch fence can provide.
Maestro... increible!... como los videos que hiciste para Egauge.
In combat robotics are there any rules about overly destructive bots in your typical insect classes? I've looked a fair bit but just wanted to verify with an experienced builder.
Where have you looked? There are rules available for most competitions. Check out my video, combat robot resource guide. It links to the most common rule sets, and all your questions should be answered there.
@@RobertCowanDIY Thankyou!
There are no rules for overly destructive robots. That being said if your robot is going to be at risk of breaching the arena, the Event Organizer might be someone to contact.
In combat robotics, witch type of repairs are the worst to deal with?
This is none of my business, ab cd, but I thought I'd jump in and answer your question anyway. :-)
I used to build and fight heavyweight bots, and always found that an electrical fire was the worst thing to have to repair. Everything burnt black, drive belts and insulation gone, radio gear ruined, motors needing rewiring, batteries puffed up or exploded, ESCs melted, plastic components fused and warped... Yuk.
In terms of impact damage from kinetic weapons, just hammering dents out of armour panels is easy enough. Replacing shredded wheels, tyres, drive motors and gear boxes is expensive but straightforward. I think the worst thing to fix mechanically is a twisted (steel) chassis, because EVERYTHING has to be taken to bits before you can get the body straightened out and the main drive running true again.
Landing badly after being flung across the arena can cause worse damage than the initial hit.
And the worst part of it is, even if you have a complete spare chassis and enough replacement bits to rebuild your robot, competition rules sometimes only give you an hour to do it!
IMHO, having to forfeit because you've run out of time to fix your machine is the worst possible way to lose a fight.
I would have put the hole in the fence slot on the other end of travel instead of on the end near the bit. You might actually want the fence mounted at the end close to the cut.
Ah, not a bad idea. There was a reason why I didn't do that, and I can't remember why. I think it was just the position of the power switch and such, and maybe the feed direction?
By the way where did you get the drill guide?
I think you're referring to the tap guides. You can find them on amazon here: amzn.to/2X7Ufoy
Excellent description. Thank you.
Ridgid or Rigid? Is it Ridgid as in Ridgeville, Ohio, or Rigid as in Typo? ;-)
Nice mod!