Here is the powder coating kit I use in this video: ebay.us/r7j34e Gloss Black Powder Coat: ebay.us/diZg4J High Temp Making Tape: ebay.us/BPanm4 150L Compressor: ebay.us/A0tEco
I was a bit sceptical at first that this system would be successful using just cheap equipment, but I bought a really basic kit, much more basic than the one you have, and it has produced outstanding results, I powder coat bullets, and have subjected them to a rigorous destruction test, every time the result has been way better that expected, so I now use this system on Motorcycle parts, the next project is to coat parts for my Vincent, so you can see how confident I am that it works, the one factor you must address is the quality of powder! That is the main consideration, do not use cheap powder if you want good results, and I coat mine inside a large box so I can recover the overspray powder. All Best Wishes for Christmas! Chris B.
Sounds like a great project. It is surprising how good it works out, like you, I didn't expect too much at first. And there was a little trial and error. It is hard to judge who is actually selling quality powder, when you tend to buy in such small quantities.
@SPANNERRASH Yes ascertaining quality is a problem, my problem is actually getting the powder sent to me in France, as it comes in from foreign countries it is a bit hit or miss. I have got a large industrial oven, so I can cure quite large objects like a Vincent crankcase. Chris B.
@@markrainford1219 I do mean actual bullets,(the projectiles), powder coating gives a very durable coating which prevents leading in the barrel, so no lubrication is required, without the coating,(or lube), the lead off the bullet quickly builds up in the barrel and destroys accuracy.
I have had motorcycle parts powder coated a few times. The only problems I've had were the last time, when I sent out a set of cast rims to a guy who advertized on a motorcycle forum. Long story short: The powder coating had crept under his _professionally applied specialist tape_ forcing me to spend hours grinding away powder coating before I could fit the brake disks, the bearings and the rear wheel cush drive. The previous times, I had meticiously put sacrificial bolts and nuts on/in every thread, plugged every bore, and put plates on every mating surface.
You do have to be careful not to powder coat a part that can cause a problem. Also the media they blast with can be very fine, so if it is engine parts you need to be scrupulous to ensure that the media doesn't get into the oil and wreck bearings.
That was a nice, down to earth, educational video. Thanks, man! I came across your vapour blasting video about a week ago and I've been binge watching your playlists since then! The bikes have taken my fancy - loved the Triumph one and I'm halfway through the CB750, a particular favourite as I have a '92 F2N version! Your videos have a great amount of detail and your presentation style is very pleasant and you make what youre doing easy to follow! Keep up the great work! I hope you have a relaxing break and I wish you all the very best for the New Year!
Thanks, Andy. I hope you have a great time over the holiday season. There is still a lot for me to do with the Triumph over the Winter, but I can't wait for Spring, as I want to finish the Cafe Racer with a great paint job.
Great video. Only thing I might say. I normally use a razer blade for getting crisp tape lines on parts like that. Far quicker and easier. I feel that a hammer leaves more room for error especially on aluminum parts such as these. Just my 2 cents. Thanks.
I never done powder coating but I have loads of videos to learn. I think the power settings is if you do multiple layers of powder on top of each other.
Great video as usual. Mask off threaded holes with sacrificial bolts or silicone plugs. 150'C is enough for the Powder but as you describe the part must be fully degreased and fully heated through.
Never done it, (yet) but I have a couple of possible improvements. Tape first. Then you don't need to clean as much. You don't need to handle hot parts. (or wait for it to cool) Also you will burn of any (greasy) fingerprints. Which means, that a second cleaning is not necessary. You will also have a warmer part (I guess) so less time in the oven is needed.
Powder coating litterally takes 10 - 15psi. A 50l will be more than enough. Unlike with blasting it doesn't use a lot of air. I have used a 50l do quite a bit of spray painting, and compressor capacity was never an issue.
I am sure there is some industry standard for this, but I can only give you what I have found. Once you can see it is coated stop, there is a temptation to put more on, but if you do, you get an orange peel effect when you cure it. I suppose it is a little like spray painting, if you are tempted to put that extra coat on, it runs :)
Great informative video, never done any powder coating and fancy trying, question does it matter if the part you are going to coat is still hot from pre heating or do you have to wait for the part to cool before applying the powder.
The powder heat sets, so if the item is too hot I don't think it would coat correctly. I always let the item cool down before coating. The item can still be warm, but not mafting ;)
Hi spanner rash just subscribed to your channel what a cracking video my mate powder coated some ford focus mk3 front hubs but there came out a bit rough is that a electric oven 😊
It is an electric oven. If they came out rough maybe you didn't give them enough heat for long enough. Usually if there is too much powder it looks a little like orange peel, rather than rough. If the powder hasn't fully melted and flowed you can always try putting them in again for a little longer, can't hurt. :)
One thing I don't get [never having tried this] is; if the powder is only being attracted to the piece by electrostatic charge, then does it not rub off really easily, as soon as you remove the piece from the power supply? ie. when you laid the pieces on a tray in the oven, I was expecting the powder on the bottom to rub off on the greaseproof paper. But it didn't look like it did.
It would have rubbed off, but I put them down on the masking not the powdered parts. The charge does keep the powder on the part quite well, but you can't touch it or it will rub off. Frequently you see powder coating done with the parts suspended, and TBH I do try to do this when I can, but in a small oven you have to be inventive.
I've just looked, and it looks like they've updated it, I can't see any now that has the voltage control. TBH, I always leave it on the same setting, so I suspect it won't be an issue.
Now I will hve to look up the pumps you are talking about. It only requires 10 to 15psi, so I susepct you can use someting else instead of a compressor.
@SPANNERRASH Though I've had mine for years so the exact details are sketchy, they're sold as wattage or L/min volume. I think mine is 22w and 45l per minute. Mine clears chips from a cnc machine, gently. A compressor gun as most use, would blast them everywhere. I just keep the bit clear.
@SPANNERRASH Further thought, they are often also called 'vain pumps' and 'oil free'. I know mine would just about power an 'air brush' if I'm honest but this should be enough to move dry powder. But how far is the question?
@SPANNERRASH I've had a bit of time to research, my version runs at roughly 2PSi so a bit low, the larger ACO500 version runs at around 6.5 PSI, which I understand can work. Other brands may vary in output.
I suspect that 50% goes to waste, probably less if you are doing bigger items, but it doesn't seem to be too big an overhead for the results I have got. A reclamation system would be good.
Here is the powder coating kit I use in this video: ebay.us/r7j34e
Gloss Black Powder Coat: ebay.us/diZg4J
High Temp Making Tape: ebay.us/BPanm4
150L Compressor: ebay.us/A0tEco
I was a bit sceptical at first that this system would be successful using just cheap equipment, but I bought a really basic kit, much more basic than the one you have, and it has produced outstanding results, I powder coat bullets, and have subjected them to a rigorous destruction test, every time the result has been way better that expected, so I now use this system on Motorcycle parts, the next project is to coat parts for my Vincent, so you can see how confident I am that it works, the one factor you must address is the quality of powder! That is the main consideration, do not use cheap powder if you want good results, and I coat mine inside a large box so I can recover the overspray powder. All Best Wishes for Christmas! Chris B.
Sounds like a great project. It is surprising how good it works out, like you, I didn't expect too much at first. And there was a little trial and error. It is hard to judge who is actually selling quality powder, when you tend to buy in such small quantities.
@SPANNERRASH Yes ascertaining quality is a problem, my problem is actually getting the powder sent to me in France, as it comes in from foreign countries it is a bit hit or miss. I have got a large industrial oven, so I can cure quite large objects like a Vincent crankcase. Chris B.
For a second I thought you meant actual bullets 😂
@@markrainford1219 I do mean actual bullets,(the projectiles), powder coating gives a very durable coating which prevents leading in the barrel, so no lubrication is required, without the coating,(or lube), the lead off the bullet quickly builds up in the barrel and destroys accuracy.
I have had motorcycle parts powder coated a few times. The only problems I've had were the last time, when I sent out a set of cast rims to a guy who advertized on a motorcycle forum.
Long story short: The powder coating had crept under his _professionally applied specialist tape_ forcing me to spend hours grinding away powder coating before I could fit the brake disks, the bearings and the rear wheel cush drive.
The previous times, I had meticiously put sacrificial bolts and nuts on/in every thread, plugged every bore, and put plates on every mating surface.
You do have to be careful not to powder coat a part that can cause a problem. Also the media they blast with can be very fine, so if it is engine parts you need to be scrupulous to ensure that the media doesn't get into the oil and wreck bearings.
That was a nice, down to earth, educational video. Thanks, man!
I came across your vapour blasting video about a week ago and I've been binge watching your playlists since then! The bikes have taken my fancy - loved the Triumph one and I'm halfway through the CB750, a particular favourite as I have a '92 F2N version!
Your videos have a great amount of detail and your presentation style is very pleasant and you make what youre doing easy to follow!
Keep up the great work!
I hope you have a relaxing break and I wish you all the very best for the New Year!
Thanks, Andy.
I hope you have a great time over the holiday season.
There is still a lot for me to do with the Triumph over the Winter, but I can't wait for Spring, as I want to finish the Cafe Racer with a great paint job.
Great video. (When I come over for tea and scones don't use that oven). Very Informative
Glad it was helpful! You'd be better off at Betty's for tea and scones, my oven gives everything a bit of funny taste :)
New subscriber having watched this video and the vapour blasting video. Many thanks for sharing.
Thanks and welcome!
Great video. Only thing I might say. I normally use a razer blade for getting crisp tape lines on parts like that. Far quicker and easier. I feel that a hammer leaves more room for error especially on aluminum parts such as these. Just my 2 cents. Thanks.
Great point! Something I will consider in the future, but doing it with the hammer is just so satisfying! :)
I never done powder coating but I have loads of videos to learn. I think the power settings is if you do multiple layers of powder on top of each other.
Thanks for the tip! I have only ever done one coat, but I will have to look into multi coats. Cheers.
Great how-to, but you left out the explanation of how to tell my Yorkshire Lass wife that I need to borrow her oven to cook motorcycle parts.
Buy her a new one for Christmas, so you can have the old one. Two birds, one stone! All the best :)
i suggest telling her from a distance to give you a head start
If you just use black powder coating, she'll never know 😂
joking aside the process is actually poisonous..don't do it your kitchen oven.
Great video as usual. Mask off threaded holes with sacrificial bolts or silicone plugs. 150'C is enough for the Powder but as you describe the part must be fully degreased and fully heated through.
Thanks for the info! I didn't think of silicon plugs, great idea.
Don't forget to cover the flat mating surfaces, like where the brake rotors mount, or brackets that mount to the frame.
Very impressed 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Never done it, (yet) but I have a couple of possible improvements. Tape first. Then you don't need to clean as much. You don't need to handle hot parts. (or wait for it to cool) Also you will burn of any (greasy) fingerprints. Which means, that a second cleaning is not necessary. You will also have a warmer part (I guess) so less time in the oven is needed.
Great suggestions, thanks for this
Really good job and you seem a nice down to earth guy👍
Thank, I'm glad you found it interesting.
Another great and very useful video - thanks mate 👍😃👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Those look great!
Glad you like them!
great outcome!
Thank you!
This is super helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
Nice job they do look professional 👍
Thanks 👍
Another good one, thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
Look nice pal good job
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks for doing this video👍🏼 I had to subscribe. I have a hyundai 50ltr air compressor. Will this be suitable for powder coating.
Powder coating litterally takes 10 - 15psi. A 50l will be more than enough. Unlike with blasting it doesn't use a lot of air. I have used a 50l do quite a bit of spray painting, and compressor capacity was never an issue.
Another interesting video.😃
Thanks, we aim to please :)
Looks interesting & you look familiar, must have met your doppelgänger with an idea for paint fumes 🤔
No fumes, but the powder can make a mess! Not sure if we've met, but if we have hello again.
@ it was in the Darwen Academy that I met your doppelgänger 😉
How do you know how much powder to put on?
Great video btw
I am sure there is some industry standard for this, but I can only give you what I have found. Once you can see it is coated stop, there is a temptation to put more on, but if you do, you get an orange peel effect when you cure it. I suppose it is a little like spray painting, if you are tempted to put that extra coat on, it runs :)
Great informative video, never done any powder coating and fancy trying, question does it matter if the part you are going to coat is still hot from pre heating or do you have to wait for the part to cool before applying the powder.
The powder heat sets, so if the item is too hot I don't think it would coat correctly. I always let the item cool down before coating. The item can still be warm, but not mafting ;)
Hi spanner rash just subscribed to your channel what a cracking video my mate powder coated some ford focus mk3 front hubs but there came out a bit rough is that a electric oven 😊
It is an electric oven. If they came out rough maybe you didn't give them enough heat for long enough. Usually if there is too much powder it looks a little like orange peel, rather than rough. If the powder hasn't fully melted and flowed you can always try putting them in again for a little longer, can't hurt. :)
One thing I don't get [never having tried this] is; if the powder is only being attracted to the piece by electrostatic charge, then does it not rub off really easily, as soon as you remove the piece from the power supply? ie. when you laid the pieces on a tray in the oven, I was expecting the powder on the bottom to rub off on the greaseproof paper. But it didn't look like it did.
It would have rubbed off, but I put them down on the masking not the powdered parts. The charge does keep the powder on the part quite well, but you can't touch it or it will rub off. Frequently you see powder coating done with the parts suspended, and TBH I do try to do this when I can, but in a small oven you have to be inventive.
I was just looking for a powder coating kit you linked but it doesn’t have a voltage control on the box , is this necessary please ?
I've just looked, and it looks like they've updated it, I can't see any now that has the voltage control. TBH, I always leave it on the same setting, so I suspect it won't be an issue.
One day I'll see someone test these with a continous blower pump or vacuum pump as they are often called, rather than air compressor.
Now I will hve to look up the pumps you are talking about. It only requires 10 to 15psi, so I susepct you can use someting else instead of a compressor.
@SPANNERRASH Though I've had mine for years so the exact details are sketchy, they're sold as wattage or L/min volume. I think mine is 22w and 45l per minute. Mine clears chips from a cnc machine, gently. A compressor gun as most use, would blast them everywhere. I just keep the bit clear.
@SPANNERRASH Further thought, they are often also called 'vain pumps' and 'oil free'. I know mine would just about power an 'air brush' if I'm honest but this should be enough to move dry powder. But how far is the question?
@SPANNERRASH I've had a bit of time to research, my version runs at roughly 2PSi so a bit low, the larger ACO500 version runs at around 6.5 PSI, which I understand can work. Other brands may vary in output.
I would rather use a scaple than a hammer If you are not damaging anything have a closer look ...
I take your point, but it is suce a satisfying technique.
You should only find a way to collect the powder that is "missing" the parts.
I suspect that 50% goes to waste, probably less if you are doing bigger items, but it doesn't seem to be too big an overhead for the results I have got. A reclamation system would be good.