I have been meaning to drop a link for a great timer which can be found here - amzn.to/2SLYEZU ... runs about $17 and seems to be solid/reliable. This will allow you to leave your fan running for a preset amount of time when you leave the room. A very handy feature.
I put similar switches in my 2 bathrooms and they make a difference. In the humid summer months I'd say that 30 min isn't long enough. Our timer values are 5, 10, 30, 60, 120, 240 (minutes).
Now, just add a Leviton Humidistat sensor switch to control your new bathroom fan. This way your fan will automatically come into action when you are taking a shower.
My husband developed macular degeneration, he’s an electrician (retired) by trade. I’m going to be installing a new vent in our bathroom with instruction from him, I’ll be his eyes, this video was very helpful! As a 68 yr old woman I’ve installed a new chandelier and this is my new “project”. Thanks!
Just as a note for any do it yourselfers out there that will watch this video. Please remove the "romex clamp" from the old fan or purchase a new one to protect the romex wire as it enters the fan box. If you do not install the clamp the wire may rub against the side of the box, which is very sharp, and could eventually short out the circuit.
@@bguen1234 it's a fan assembly that vibrates, even if it's just a very small amount. If that fan runs every day for 10+ years, you could have problems.
Just a note: If there are two pieces of wiring coming into the fan housing, one of them is a switch leg going to the switch and the other one will be the hot feed and will be live unless it's shut off at the breaker. You should also never run wiring through a sharp hole in sheet metal. A screw in connector that clamps the wire and protects it from the sheet metal edges is code.
I have a Ventline V2270-50 that I need to swap out to a Panasonic FV-1115VK2. I calculated that my bathroom requires 114 CFM (current fan is only 50 CFM and around 79 dB). New Panasonic is 11 dB and 150 CFM. Given the dimensional differences, your video tutorial was EXACTLY what I needed. Thank you for taking the time to put this together.
I don't understand why anyone would give this video a thumbs down. As a woman and someone who wasn't raised being shown this stuff, I GREATLY appreciate these videos.
At12:25 I would recommend that blocking be added for the fan housing support to the non-joist side of the housing. Cut a short piece of 2 X 3, lay up above drywall flush to opening and run a couple of screws up thru the drywall to retain the blocking. The screws will not be seen. They will be covered by the fan grill when it’s installed. This blocking support will remove any housing sag and unwanted vibration of the unit. You could also use what is known as “OWC” clips. By cutting two notches about 2” from each corner and attach them, and then expand them till the housing flange comes snug to the drywall.
Nice install.. This is one of the first upgrades I make after moving - replacing the builder grade exhaust fans (along with the stove hood vent). I select the strongest motor with the quietest operation (measured in db’s). The quiet ones cost more, but for me that is important for any exhaust fans in the home. If accessible, I always go into the attic to firmly attach the vent with quality duct tape or even better, one of those 2 or 3 foot HVAC style zip ties. Also I caulk around the housing where it meets the Sheetrock and then tighten up the insulation around the base. Less air leakage from the fixture and no dust or debris from the attic. I like the timer you posted, it’s now in my Amazon cart.
The only suggestion for this type of retrofit is that, if it were a heavier unit, you could add a wooden batten to reinforce the drywall opposite the joist and a couple of screws up through those available holes in the lip of the casing would make it very rigid (the drywall ends up firmly sandwiched between the lip below, and the wooden batten above). This also minimises any air being sucked down from the joist space. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for this post and the comments....with the info we pre-purchased all the possible things we could need, and we ended up needing all of them, however, with your advice, start to finish it took us just over 2 hours to remove and replace!
Attacked my apartment bathroom vent fan last night and planned on replacement. Another video suggested that lubricating the motor might help. Low and behold, after a couple of drops of WD-40, the blower ran like new!! Old apartment so this also gave me a chance to clean the fan and the casing. Your video is excellent and most attentive to details. Will subscribe and watch for further tips. Thanks!!
This was great! I’m also adding a bigger exhaust fan to my bathroom with no attic access and you didn’t skip any of the steps that I didn’t see on other videos. Thank you for this!
I have these same exhaust fans in my house built in '99. I've been playing around with the idea of replacing them and this video was super helpful. Thanks so much!
Very good video. Especially giving how to calculate the proper vent size for the bathroom. One suggestion: The ground wires do need a wire nut on them. The purpose is to be sure there is a firm connection between the wires so if a short does occur in the fan housing there is a path to ground. Without the wire nut on the ground wires the resistance could possible become to high for the ground path to function properly or the wires could become accidently pulled apart.
Good vid. When buying new, make sure the fan can be easily removed from housing for cleaning and lubrication. Do not use powerful blower when cleaning, too much force will break the plastic fan, especially as it gets older and more brittle.
This is one of the best well-informed bathroom exhaust fan videos that I have seen thus far. Thanks for taking the time to show each step in detail. I feel more confident with doing it myself and saving money. Thanks.
This was very good. It helped me doing the job and had all the right information. - Thank You for this, you have all my gratitude. - I wanted to add what made my experience 1h longer than it should have been. My house if full of "atypical" vent conduits. Instead of flexible tubes from the vent to the fan, they used all over those rigid metallic tubes made by curling a sheet of metal and spot wielding it into a tube. The result is a very crappy and difficult to deal system. I had a 3 inches steel tube and I knew the new unit would have a 4 inches outlet. So I bought some flext 3 inch tube and a 'reducer" in light plastic (from 4 to 3 in) so that I could 1) Extend the metallic tube without disturbing it too much from the current position 2) Extend the flex tube inside the unit for an easier attachment to the reduction and outlet. - The result was that a) The 3 inch flex tube created an excessively long tube.. so I had to first try and cut it, then remove it altogether. b) The now direct connection between the metallic tube and the reduction... they were exactly 3 inch in diameter with no flexibility to go one inside the other.. discovered that the same was true for the 4 inches side to the outlet .. they were exactly the same diameter.. no way to insert one in the other. I had to make cuts in the both sided of the reduction in order to squeeze one side into the metal tube and the other in the unit's vent. - Then taped the heck out of the junctions that were created. - I agree that duct tape, with time, fails and eventually starts leaking.. . The first two attempts to connect with the flex tube I used duct tape and foil tape on top.. the third and last one.. I was too tired to do the double taping and went with the duct tape only.
I see others mentioned the two items I saw regarding the need to put a mechanical fastener (either zip tie or hose clamp) on the inside sleeve of the duct to fasten it to fan housing outlet and also to put a plastic or metal sleeve on the electrical wire as it enters the box housing. I also think it would be beneficial to mention that you may have blown insulation around the housing (and most likely will), or have fiberglass insulation around the existing housing). That could fall through as you remove the existing housing and when you cut the whole larger. Could become a real pain/mess (surprised you had no insulation unless you have a second level and therefore were cutting into the dead space between your first and second floors). Dealing with falling insulation makes this job much more difficult and does suggest that 'if' you can get to the housing from above to at least move the insulation away from the existing housing, that should be done first (even if you don't want to work from up above). The last thing I thought of is that you put two screws into the stud closest to the side of the new housing, but I assume the stud was not close enough on the other side. Putting screws into the new housing to attach to existing studs can be problematic if they are not in the right position and you may need to jerry-rig something in that regard (worth mentioning as a possibility). I understand you can't account for EVERY possible scenario, but these are a few common things that could have been mentioned. Overall a very good and informative video. Thanks.
Should have use a clamp for the duct as tape is not a mechanical but a sealer for air flow being fans vibrate. I saw the box had rolled edge where the wire came in so may be ok, but agree a clamp on the wire is better. Thanks for the video, you did a good job overall. I think these fans need a humidity sensor that runs the fan till the humidity drops to normal level.
I took my exhaust fan out. Saves a lot of money and it's much more comfortable. I just use a squeegee after the shower. I do the walls and shower curtain in the tub area and it works like a charm. No fan noise, Nothing to ware out. No heat loss in winter.
@@RealWorld As long as you don't leave the door closed, and you squeegee the tub walls and curtain every time, there hasn't been a problem in my bathroom for some 20 years so far.
You are a fantastic instructionalist. Thanks for the installation guide. After watching your video, I feel confident that I can choose an adequate new fan and safely install it correctly on the first try!
I installed one in my bathroom and it works great. I have a 1-inch door clearance. However, the Broan InVent 110 should use a 4in duct to operate as designed. Only use the 4 to 3 reducer if you don't have access to the attic. The Broan Invent bathfan is the best fan to retrofit your bathroom.
You are going to have a fire in that unit later on down the road because you didn't use a romex connector. The unit will eventually cut through the romex and possibly cause a fire. You need to pull that unit down and correct that mistake.
LOL - 1) this is NOT a high vibration unit 2) i pinned a comment to place to romex connector in the box for anyone with concerns as i feel it is prudent to include it
Very nicely explained, step by step. My biggest concern was going to be taking down the old housing since I couldn't see how it was attached, and I have the same as yours. Time to get the pry-bar!!! Thanks!
Nice video. Just a few tips I might pass along. First, as others have said, a romex connector should be used or at least a plastic bushing. Second, Duck tape doesn't last forever, especially if it is the cheap stuff. Where I live in Wisconsin, the current code recommends a mechanical fastener AND HVAC metal foil tape which lasts much longer. So for a mechanical fastener you could use a high quality zip tie, some sheet metal screws where the head catches the wire in the hose, or a metallic hose clamp. I recently had new shingles installed and took the opportunity to install roof mounted 4" vents above all three fart fans in my home. About 8 feet directly above the fans. The existing fart fans exited over 20 feet away through the vertical face of the gables and used uninsulated 3" aluminum flex dryer hose. Two of the three runs have holes in them and also water in the low spots. Now I have 4" insulted vent hose that is only 8 feet long. Even with the existing fans, ventilation is much better and the noise is less as well. We also have eliminated our ice dam problems which we still had even with the new shingles. Most of the hot, damp air from the fart fans was exiting into the attic space. Interestingly enough, the 2 stovetop hood fans, (our place is a two family duplex), were directly vented vertically though the roof with insulated tin HVAC ducting. I don't know why they skimped on the fart fans.
Appreciate your post/feedback!:) This is great information and making me wish I could pin two comments to the top:). I pinned the romex connector early on but you have more to offer in your post. TY.
Again, thank you for your time and effort! You have great production skills and much empathy for those of us who are two of five stars when it comes to home repairs like myself! I tell people all the time, I am so lacking in skills that if the project is a four- star it means, someone will get injured if it is a five-star project, it could result in a hospital stay or death!!! LOL!!! One thing you really do well is explaining in advance, the problems one could fall into when doing a home project. Many a hole in the wall I have lacking this forsight! Many folks explain how to do things on the internet, but few tell you what problems and how to overcome them as part of the planning! Keep teaching and I will keep learning! Thanks againRich
Thanks for the post/feedback Rich and glad to be of help!:) I believe in people helping people when possible and the internet/youtube is a great method to share knowledge ... sharing knowledge and experiences is how we grow/learn:).
excellent video. this is exactly what i was looking for many months as my existing exaust housing is small and i did not know how to put a big housing exaust. thanks so much again.
thanks for the post and glad to be of help!:) I was in a similar situation ... my fan was too small for the room in my opinion. After replacing the fan, I see little to no moisture issues from the shower ... moisture to some extent is expected immediately following a hot shower, but removing the moisture quickly after is the goal:).
I had the exact same (actually probably slightly older) fan as in this video, You can take the cover off, figure out what model your fan is and they sell new fan kits that can replace within the same housing. I did that since my house is older and I have a lot of blown in insulation above which would've gotten messy. But for $45, I was able to get an upgrade fan that fit in the same housing, installed it in 15 minutes, it had 1.5x CFM output and 2x as quiet (half as loud? 2 sones vs 4 sones). It also came with an updated cover, so the fan looks, sounds, and feels like a brand new installation!
WILoveTrains Would you mind sharing a link? I have a Broan 50 CFM and it doesn't wick the moisture much at all. I would like to upgrade just the motor and fan not the entire thing but wasn't able to find an exact replacement with higher CFM. Please let me know where you purchased your replacement and what CFM does it have? Thank you!
@@Lesikaification if you need something with more CFMS, aka a larger fan you’ll likely have to buy a new fan and cut a larger hole in the ceiling etc. but for a quick upgrade this is easy and worked for me
I appreciate your methodical breakdown on replacing the bathroom exhaust fan. Your research on what type of fan to get and why was very helpful. Also, The how to portion on replacing an existing fan was extremely helpful. thank you
I am upgrading my bathroom fan, and I am installing the same one you used. I thought I would check my venting tube which runs horizontally about 20 feet to the side of my house. I removed my outside vent, and I found bird nests in there. I cleaned it out, and it filled up a bucket. So I would suggest you check that venting to be sure it is clear of debris.
Firstly, Fantastic video. Unlike another gentleman, who said it's beyond his ability to follow this, I'm very handy, and I will 100% be upgrading my fan myself using the training I received from your video. One question that always stumps me on electrical jobs: Where do I connect the green ground wire? You just said "coil it" ... but where do I screw it onto? I usually screw it onto the metal casing with the ground-screw attached to the casing. But I didn't see you attach it anywhere. Thanks for the response.
Thanks for the post/feedback and glad to be of help!:) The green is used for ground and should attached to the bare copper wire coming from the wire group (white, black, copper). Sometimes you may see a green screw the housing or casing, and this can be used as well.
I put 2 exhaust fans in my shower room, on a timer, when I built my house in 1983. Turn it on after showering. Does the job fast, but gotta crack the bathroom door to let in enough air. Clears the mirror fog fast too.
I think code requires the use of a Romex clamp where the wires enter the box. I’d annotate the video and add that point in there, it’s very unsafe to go without one.
Great point and thank you for the post!:) I will post an add note in the description and see if I can overlay that part of the video with a notation on the clamp as well.
Just discovered that UA-cam removed the free form annotation feature - ouch:). I will pin a related comment to the top and add a note in the description:).
@@bguen1234 Years of vibration can cause the wire to get a cut in it from the sharp sheet metal fan box. The clamp acts as a grommet to protect the wire's insulation.
Great video, thank you very much. I need to do exactly the same thing in my bathroom, and the attic space is so remote and tight, there's no practical way for me to get in there to do it the standard way. My old one never really worked well, and I took it apart to realize that the fan motor either runs backward, or the impeller is made for the opposite direction. It actually moves very little air, because of this. So, I'm going to get one of the same ones you installed, and get it done. Thank you again, this video was extremely helpful, especially your detailed explanations and up close video.
Thanks for the post/feedback and glad to be of help!:) No fun when the bathroom walls are wet and start to streak, etc. When I saw this happen in my bathroom, it was time to take action:).
RealWorld well, I got it done yesterday afternoon. I had to wrestle with the exhaust port and hose adaptor, but it was a lot easier after watching your step by step directions. Thanks again.
Great to hear and glad to be of help!:) Remember to leave the fan on a bit after each shower in order to clear the room ... the larger fan should handle the job:).
Reducing your exhaust diameter I have found will make the unit work harder so I'm glad you had a 4-inch exhaust. I would not recommend anyone tapering down if the fan is requiring a certain diameter You're only going to make the unit work that much harder. If you wanted to be extremely safe while you worked also you could pull out the switch off the wall and disconnect it there and cap that so that you could turn the lights back on and definitely not worried that you have any power up at the exhaust fan and then just reattach the switch when you're done. Why wouldn't you secure it with the holes on the flashing?? Also never use duct tape in an area like that when that duct tape dry rots as it will it's going to let loose I would have used metal tape, that stuff will never degrade. Also some covers are larger and you sometimes need to make sure that you're going to have clearance you are pretty close there to that corner I would have measured how much overlap that was going to take and mention that in the video but you got lucky.
Good point Chad and thx for the post. The fan will work a bit harder but will still work. It's like exhaling with your mouth open and doing the same with your lips place together forming a small hole (like whistling). the same amount of air will flow out, but you will need to push a bit more when whistling.
Thank you for this video, you've given me the courage to replace my bathroom fan! I'm buying a slightly different one, but I think the basics should still be close enough!
Good job, right up to the electrical work. You need a need a romex connector and a wire nut on the ground. Please do not tell your viewers, that you don't need one on the ground.
Thank you this was fantastic, I’m confident the power was off at the switch and wouldn’t be doing that in the dark was the only thing I noticed. Otherwise this is what I’ll be doing. Hoping mine is easier as it’s changing a Broan for another brown but more powerful
The real question is where the end of the fan duct terminated since your old fan was actually working. I found out my bathroom fan ducts all went to vented soffit and simply dangled on top by lazy builder/contractors, and not actually vented to the outside correctly through the side walls nor the roof. Check your outdoor vent if you can find it.
@@kathryndegraaf7115 You'll need the access to the attic or the opposite side of the wall where the fan is installed to find where the connected duct leads out to.
One 'rule of thumb' is that the minimum CFM required is = to the square footage of the room, so a bathroom of 60 sqft, would need a 60 cfm fan. Also, you can buy fans that are almost silent today, and still have the CFM needed, but you pay more for quietness.
Thanks for the post and good point Paul:). I would stress the word 'minimum' as more might be desired to really move the air. I also thought about the quiet factor but realized most people may want a louder fan to mask ... uhhhhh ... various sounds:).
When buying paint for bathroom let the paint department what you are painting.At Home Depot you can add a additive for about five bucks that when mixed with the paint it will greatly reduce those black spots due to moisture,but adding the fan with more cfm is a necessity .
thanks for the post/question:). yes, this worked for me as the air flow has improved. i will also add that we leave the door over and the fan on after the shower for 5-10 mins.
If moisture on walls appeared after the reno, even after leaving the fan on for 20 minutes means he didn't use bathroom rated paint. Seems silly BUT bathroom-rated paint exists for a reason, it has chemicals that help avoid moisture from being absorbed. You can also paint the bathroom with semi-gloss or glossy paint, just keep in mind these paints require more attention when applying them because the overlaying of the roll is more pronounced if you are not applying the same amount of paint all over the surface.
#1. Until you clean the lint that is blocking screen out at the vent exit, the fan airflow will not be great. Every bathroom fan in the USA has a outlet with louvers and a wire screen that can't be easily removed. I had to snake 12 feet of shop vac hose to reach the screen in my duct outlet. Then the fan worked great for the first time since I owned the house. Next time I will try blowing the lint back down the duct to see if that is easier. #2. Use a squeegee to get most of the water off the shower walls into the drain and the place dries out much faster.
Thanks for the post/feedback Dana!:) Great tip on the vent exit! I had the same on my dryer vent but not certain about the shower vent ... time to take a closer look:).
thanks for the video, I've been trying to wrap my head around how to make this remodel fan without destroying the old housing. it seems more beneficial to completely redo the whole thing.
Very good video. Because it is detailed it shows all aspects of the job. I did not have to remove the housing but if I have to, I can do it with help from this video.
What I can't figure out is people that refuse to turn the fan on when they crap, do they like the smell?? I think I'm going to wire the lights and fan together on a timer so there's no way around it.
Had the same problem. I just wired the toilet seat so that when a toilet user sits down the 110 volts gets switched from the toilet seat to the fan. Only had a couple of bugs to work out but my attorney says he's taking care of that.
Excellent. Very detailed. Thank you! A Sawzall with a short hacksaw blade would have made quick work of that staple. Or a simple "frameless" hacksaw designed for tight spaces.
At 25:39 he needs to install a type NM cable connector in the wire entry hole per NEC code. This to prevent any chafing of the conductor insulation that will over time cause a ground fault, short circuit or potential electrical fire hazard.
What a great vid. Having the same problems with my small bathroom & the exhaust fan is only 50cfm. I'm gonna go ahead & upgrade to a higher cfm & use your video as a guide. Thank you much brother.
Typically electrical wiring should have 3 wires (black, white, and copper). The copper is used for ground. The fan will run without a copper ground but this creates a safety issue if a ground is needed for any reason (i.e. lightening strike, etc.).
Whenever you join two indifferent wire metals together, such be copper w/aluminum 'you should need squirt oxide corrosive paste into the wire nut.& securely tighten it as otherwise it will have but a short life span. So many contractors/handyman & homeowners discard doing this & then blame the manufacturer. Just as if you install outside wires exposed to rain is a good idea to likewise squirt a shot of 100% silicone calk in the wire nut as you first twist the wires together & then tighten the wire nut onto the wires w/the silicone, It makes for good protection from electrocution.. I am a good man on hand, Dave the Handyman.
I can do many DYI. But for the middle of the road person, up on a ladder doing this job is on the difficult side. What is it worth in YOUR time. If you have the experience, go for it. Most of us this is not an easy project. Thanks.Rick
Exactly what I needed! Thanks for the details for amateurs like me. Mine was built in 1999 too and the motor sounded seized, which woke the dead up every time anyone used it. LOL
Best thing I ever did was replace my fan switches with timer switches. Press the 30 minute button, take a shower, leave...fan keeps running long after I'm gone and I don't have to worry about going back to turn it off. Same thing with dropping a deuce. Press the 10 minute button and let it air out! If I've been out having beers and taco bell...maybe need to run that bad boy for 60 minutes!
Hi. Thanks for video and helpful instructions. Please do yourself and everyone else a favor and wear eye protection, particularly looking up into sheetrock work and fiberglass. As a doctor, I'm tired of taking chunks and stuff out of people's eyes, only to hear them say, "Well, I guess I shudda." True story: I had one guy come in for his second eye injury, exactly like the first, a year later to the week. Hit by a chip of fresh cedar that I had to remove; had abrasion of the eye and chemical conjunctivitis from the cedar oils. Never came back, and I'm not sure if it was because of the crap I gave him or he started using safety goggles. Keep up the good work.
LOL - absolutely and THANK YOU for the post/tip!:) I know a few people who trapped various particles in their eyes. You make a great point which is much appreciated.
Regarding the suggested timer - it's very tempting but it requires a "neutral" (4th wire) which does not exist in older houses wiring. - Maybe there is a 3 wires model out there that I could use.
Excessive CFM is nullified by the 4" to 3* reducer. (Bad idea). Go to the manufacturers website for proper installation. Also dimmable lights ,humidity sensors, variable fan speeds all require special switches on the wall. Upgrades may require more than you think.
Best to get ones with an over run timer. That way you can conect it to your light switch and it comes on with the light and when you turn the light off it off the fan runs for 20 minutes
Definitely need to use a screw in wire connector that will protect the wiring from being damaged by the sharp sheet metal edges if there is any vibration or shifting of wires in the attic.
I have the same problem but worse. I have a son that spends an hour taking a shower I repainted and the mold came back. I am going to install larger fan and uses kilz primer and use semigloss paint
lol - you are on the right path ... i did the same - although i believe i used primer and satin instead of semi-gloss (i believe satin is one step down from semi-gloss regarding sheen):).
My question is how much good does it do to try push more cfms thru a 3" vent ? The Fan is designed for 4" and you're reducing/restricting the flow. That's defeeting the purpose of the replacement ! In my 40+years of working in New home construction as a plumber, I've never seen an electrical use a reducer. I realize it's more of a job to do it right, but thats my plan, even if I have to convert to a roof vent or pull a 4"thru with the old 3" Also if the wall switch or timer is off, there's no need to work in the dark ! Also replacing a switch with a timer is much better. It allows you to crank the timer to the max as you leave to maximize run time to vent even more humidity. We keep our master suite cooler which causes more condensation so it's time for an upgrade.
Very clear tutorial. Not to be picky, but I didn’t see a connector or wire clamp when the power supply entered the housing through the feed hole. Did I miss it. Thank you
You are a good communicator. However, the installation of the fan could have been better. You only secured the fan housing box on one side; Not good for noise and vibration. A pro would have added some framing to screw the other side of the box to.
If you have a bathroom without an exterior window (I assume that is what this is), then just wire the fan up to the light so it always comes on. Bathrooms setup like this usualy automatically run the fan for a number of minutes after the light is switched off. That would get rid of your, people not turning the fan on problem. Installing a bigger fan which people still dont turn on wont achieve much
You are on the right path but the fan should stay on when the lights go off (when you leave the bathroom/shower) for a given duration of time (10-20 mins). I like the timers for this purpose:).
I'm necroing this thing but heres info to help installers. Mark your drywall and remove the appropriate amount prior to removing the housing. Then you can easily remove it as the sheetrock will be out of your way.
Excellent and timely video for me...as I actually am refreshing two bathrooms in my house and both will need new fans! Got to say though, you made it look easy. I would have sliced my fingers to shreds pulling out that old housing, and would have invented new combinations of four-letter words when taping that ducting to the housing :-))) Thanks again for a very informative and well produced video!
If you remove wiring in the order black, white, green and connect it in the order green, white, black you will be even safer (even if there's a current when there shouldn't be).
No, he actually does a lot of things wrong, starting by using the wrong sized fan. UA-cam is the biggest spreader of misinformation and most of you idiots are too clueless to realize it.
I have been meaning to drop a link for a great timer which can be found here - amzn.to/2SLYEZU ... runs about $17 and seems to be solid/reliable. This will allow you to leave your fan running for a preset amount of time when you leave the room. A very handy feature.
Squirrel cage unit was a good choice, it'll make a ton of difference I put these in all my rent houses =)
I put similar switches in my 2 bathrooms and they make a difference. In the humid summer months I'd say that 30 min isn't long enough. Our timer values are 5, 10, 30, 60, 120, 240 (minutes).
Now, just add a Leviton Humidistat sensor switch to control your new bathroom fan. This way your fan will automatically come into action when you are taking a shower.
@@TejasToolMan . . @
My husband developed macular degeneration, he’s an electrician (retired) by trade. I’m going to be installing a new vent in our bathroom with instruction from him, I’ll be his eyes, this video was very helpful! As a 68 yr old woman I’ve installed a new chandelier and this is my new “project”. Thanks!
Glad to be of help and God bless:).
without a single cuss word. amazing how you're so calm. I've got a lot to learn. well done, sir.
LOL - thanks for the post:).
Just as a note for any do it yourselfers out there that will watch this video. Please remove the "romex clamp" from the old fan or purchase a new one to protect the romex wire as it enters the fan box. If you do not install the clamp the wire may rub against the side of the box, which is very sharp, and could eventually short out the circuit.
thank you for the post and great point!:) I went without the clamp but better to be safe than sorry.
If the wire in your attic is moving on it's own you have a bigger problem.
@@bguen1234 it's a fan assembly that vibrates, even if it's just a very small amount. If that fan runs every day for 10+ years, you could have problems.
I was so surprised when no romex clamp was used. I don't think people come to these sites for wrong information.
Just a note: If there are two pieces of wiring coming into the fan housing, one of them is a switch leg going to the switch and the other one will be the hot feed and will be live unless it's shut off at the breaker. You should also never run wiring through a sharp hole in sheet metal. A screw in connector that clamps the wire and protects it from the sheet metal edges is code.
Agreed and thanks for the feedback:).
I have a Ventline V2270-50 that I need to swap out to a Panasonic FV-1115VK2. I calculated that my bathroom requires 114 CFM (current fan is only 50 CFM and around 79 dB). New Panasonic is 11 dB and 150 CFM. Given the dimensional differences, your video tutorial was EXACTLY what I needed. Thank you for taking the time to put this together.
glad to be of help and good luck with your project! :) my bathroom is much better since replacing the fan.
I don't understand why anyone would give this video a thumbs down. As a woman and someone who wasn't raised being shown this stuff, I GREATLY appreciate these videos.
Thanks for the post/feedback Barb and glad to be of help!:)
At12:25 I would recommend that blocking be added for the fan housing support to the non-joist side of the housing.
Cut a short piece of 2 X 3, lay up above drywall flush to opening and run a couple of screws up thru the drywall to retain the blocking.
The screws will not be seen. They will be covered by the fan grill when it’s installed.
This blocking support will remove any housing sag and unwanted vibration of the unit.
You could also use what is known as “OWC” clips. By cutting two notches about 2” from each corner and attach them, and then expand them till the housing flange comes snug to the drywall.
I was wondering how to do screw it on the side with no joist and this helps! thanks for the tip.
Great idea..I was wondering how he was going to support the other non-stud side-thanks for the tip as I am faced with the same stud/no stud situation.
Nice install.. This is one of the first upgrades I make after moving - replacing the builder grade exhaust fans (along with the stove hood vent). I select the strongest motor with the quietest operation (measured in db’s). The quiet ones cost more, but for me that is important for any exhaust fans in the home.
If accessible, I always go into the attic to firmly attach the vent with quality duct tape or even better, one of those 2 or 3 foot HVAC style zip ties. Also I caulk around the housing where it meets the Sheetrock and then tighten up the insulation around the base. Less air leakage from the fixture and no dust or debris from the attic. I like the timer you posted, it’s now in my Amazon cart.
Thanks for the post/feedback/tips:).
The only suggestion for this type of retrofit is that, if it were a heavier unit, you could add a wooden batten to reinforce the drywall opposite the joist and a couple of screws up through those available holes in the lip of the casing would make it very rigid (the drywall ends up firmly sandwiched between the lip below, and the wooden batten above). This also minimises any air being sucked down from the joist space. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for this post and the comments....with the info we pre-purchased all the possible things we could need, and we ended up needing all of them, however, with your advice, start to finish it took us just over 2 hours to remove and replace!
Glad to be of help Misty!:)
Attacked my apartment bathroom vent fan last night and planned on replacement. Another video suggested that lubricating the motor might help. Low and behold, after a couple of drops of WD-40, the blower ran like new!! Old apartment so this also gave me a chance to clean the fan and the casing. Your video is excellent and most attentive to details. Will subscribe and watch for further tips. Thanks!!
This was great! I’m also adding a bigger exhaust fan to my bathroom with no attic access and you didn’t skip any of the steps that I didn’t see on other videos. Thank you for this!
I have these same exhaust fans in my house built in '99. I've been playing around with the idea of replacing them and this video was super helpful. Thanks so much!
Thanks for the post Ben and glad to be of help!:)
Very good video. Especially giving how to calculate the proper vent size for the bathroom. One suggestion: The ground wires do need a wire nut on them. The purpose is to be sure there is a firm connection between the wires so if a short does occur in the fan housing there is a path to ground. Without the wire nut on the ground wires the resistance could possible become to high for the ground path to function properly or the wires could become accidently pulled apart.
Good vid. When buying new, make sure the fan can be easily removed from housing for cleaning and lubrication. Do not use powerful blower when cleaning, too much force will break the plastic fan, especially as it gets older and more brittle.
Thanks for the tips John ... good points to note:).
This is one of the best well-informed bathroom exhaust fan videos that I have seen thus far. Thanks for taking the time to show each step in detail. I feel more confident with doing it myself and saving money. Thanks.
glad to be of help!:) if i can do it, so can you!:) years later and the fan is running great!:)
I'm four years late, but your post encouraged me to change out my 20 year old exhaust fan. Great job and thanks much!
LOL - never too late:). Glad to be of help and good luck!:)
This was very good. It helped me doing the job and had all the right information. - Thank You for this, you have all my gratitude. - I wanted to add what made my experience 1h longer than it should have been. My house if full of "atypical" vent conduits. Instead of flexible tubes from the vent to the fan, they used all over those rigid metallic tubes made by curling a sheet of metal and spot wielding it into a tube. The result is a very crappy and difficult to deal system. I had a 3 inches steel tube and I knew the new unit would have a 4 inches outlet. So I bought some flext 3 inch tube and a 'reducer" in light plastic (from 4 to 3 in) so that I could 1) Extend the metallic tube without disturbing it too much from the current position 2) Extend the flex tube inside the unit for an easier attachment to the reduction and outlet. - The result was that a) The 3 inch flex tube created an excessively long tube.. so I had to first try and cut it, then remove it altogether. b) The now direct connection between the metallic tube and the reduction... they were exactly 3 inch in diameter with no flexibility to go one inside the other.. discovered that the same was true for the 4 inches side to the outlet .. they were exactly the same diameter.. no way to insert one in the other. I had to make cuts in the both sided of the reduction in order to squeeze one side into the metal tube and the other in the unit's vent. - Then taped the heck out of the junctions that were created. - I agree that duct tape, with time, fails and eventually starts leaking.. . The first two attempts to connect with the flex tube I used duct tape and foil tape on top.. the third and last one.. I was too tired to do the double taping and went with the duct tape only.
Glad to be of help and thanks for the additional info!:)
I see others mentioned the two items I saw regarding the need to put a mechanical fastener (either zip tie or hose clamp) on the inside sleeve of the duct to fasten it to fan housing outlet and also to put a plastic or metal sleeve on the electrical wire as it enters the box housing. I also think it would be beneficial to mention that you may have blown insulation around the housing (and most likely will), or have fiberglass insulation around the existing housing). That could fall through as you remove the existing housing and when you cut the whole larger. Could become a real pain/mess (surprised you had no insulation unless you have a second level and therefore were cutting into the dead space between your first and second floors).
Dealing with falling insulation makes this job much more difficult and does suggest that 'if' you can get to the housing from above to at least move the insulation away from the existing housing, that should be done first (even if you don't want to work from up above).
The last thing I thought of is that you put two screws into the stud closest to the side of the new housing, but I assume the stud was not close enough on the other side. Putting screws into the new housing to attach to existing studs can be problematic if they are not in the right position and you may need to jerry-rig something in that regard (worth mentioning as a possibility).
I understand you can't account for EVERY possible scenario, but these are a few common things that could have been mentioned.
Overall a very good and informative video. Thanks.
thx for the post and good points:). i had a second level and did not have insulation to deal with.
Excellent video. Was facing similar dilemma of underpowered fan for square footage needed. Best step by step I have seen. Thanks
Should have use a clamp for the duct as tape is not a mechanical but a sealer for air flow being fans vibrate. I saw the box had rolled edge where the wire came in so may be ok, but agree a clamp on the wire is better. Thanks for the video, you did a good job overall. I think these fans need a humidity sensor that runs the fan till the humidity drops to normal level.
Thanks for your post/feedback and agreed ... a clamp would be a good idea:).
I took my exhaust fan out. Saves a lot of money and it's much more comfortable.
I just use a squeegee after the shower. I do the walls and shower curtain in the tub area and it works like a charm.
No fan noise, Nothing to ware out. No heat loss in winter.
interesting though although continuous moisture might cause mold and various other unwanted effects:)
@@RealWorld As long as you don't leave the door closed, and you squeegee the tub walls and curtain every time, there hasn't been a problem in my bathroom for some 20 years so far.
I wonder how Google knew that I had a noisy exhaust fan to be replaced! I'm glad they did because this is an awesome DIY video. Thank you for posting.
LOL - I know what you mean - the power of AI (artificial intelligence):).
You are a fantastic instructionalist. Thanks for the installation guide. After watching your video, I feel confident that I can choose an adequate new fan and safely install it correctly on the first try!
Glad to be of help Melissa and good luck!:)
I installed one in my bathroom and it works great. I have a 1-inch door clearance. However, the Broan InVent 110 should use a 4in duct to operate as designed. Only use the 4 to 3 reducer if you don't have access to the attic. The Broan Invent bathfan is the best fan to retrofit your bathroom.
Youre good
You are going to have a fire in that unit later on down the road because you didn't use a romex connector. The unit will eventually cut through the romex and possibly cause a fire. You need to pull that unit down and correct that mistake.
LOL - 1) this is NOT a high vibration unit 2) i pinned a comment to place to romex connector in the box for anyone with concerns as i feel it is prudent to include it
Very nicely explained, step by step. My biggest concern was going to be taking down the old housing since I couldn't see how it was attached, and I have the same as yours. Time to get the pry-bar!!! Thanks!
Nice video. Just a few tips I might pass along. First, as others have said, a romex connector should be used or at least a plastic bushing. Second, Duck tape doesn't last forever, especially if it is the cheap stuff. Where I live in Wisconsin, the current code recommends a mechanical fastener AND HVAC metal foil tape which lasts much longer. So for a mechanical fastener you could use a high quality zip tie, some sheet metal screws where the head catches the wire in the hose, or a metallic hose clamp. I recently had new shingles installed and took the opportunity to install roof mounted 4" vents above all three fart fans in my home. About 8 feet directly above the fans. The existing fart fans exited over 20 feet away through the vertical face of the gables and used uninsulated 3" aluminum flex dryer hose. Two of the three runs have holes in them and also water in the low spots. Now I have 4" insulted vent hose that is only 8 feet long. Even with the existing fans, ventilation is much better and the noise is less as well. We also have eliminated our ice dam problems which we still had even with the new shingles. Most of the hot, damp air from the fart fans was exiting into the attic space. Interestingly enough, the 2 stovetop hood fans, (our place is a two family duplex), were directly vented vertically though the roof with insulated tin HVAC ducting. I don't know why they skimped on the fart fans.
Appreciate your post/feedback!:) This is great information and making me wish I could pin two comments to the top:). I pinned the romex connector early on but you have more to offer in your post. TY.
It's so helpful video instruction for installation of Bathroom Fan.
Thank you!
I thought I knew what I was doing, but kept chickening out. This video gave me the confidence to proceed. Thanks for the explanations.
if i can do it, so can you! :)
Again, thank you for your time and effort! You have great production skills and much empathy for those of us who are two of five stars when it comes to home repairs like myself! I tell people all the time, I am so lacking in skills that if the project is a four- star it means, someone will get injured if it is a five-star project, it could result in a hospital stay or death!!! LOL!!! One thing you really do well is explaining in advance, the problems one could fall into when doing a home project. Many a hole in the wall I have lacking this forsight! Many folks explain how to do things on the internet, but few tell you what problems and how to overcome them as part of the planning! Keep teaching and I will keep learning!
Thanks againRich
Thanks for the post/feedback Rich and glad to be of help!:) I believe in people helping people when possible and the internet/youtube is a great method to share knowledge ... sharing knowledge and experiences is how we grow/learn:).
This was an excellent vid. I needed to remove my fan housing but I couldn't see any screws. It's probably stapled in as yours was. Thank you.
Glad to be of help!:) My new(er) fan is running strong and working well!
excellent video. this is exactly what i was looking for many months as my existing exaust housing is small and i did not know how to put a big housing exaust. thanks so much again.
thanks for the post and glad to be of help!:) I was in a similar situation ... my fan was too small for the room in my opinion. After replacing the fan, I see little to no moisture issues from the shower ... moisture to some extent is expected immediately following a hot shower, but removing the moisture quickly after is the goal:).
I had the exact same (actually probably slightly older) fan as in this video, You can take the cover off, figure out what model your fan is and they sell new fan kits that can replace within the same housing. I did that since my house is older and I have a lot of blown in insulation above which would've gotten messy. But for $45, I was able to get an upgrade fan that fit in the same housing, installed it in 15 minutes, it had 1.5x CFM output and 2x as quiet (half as loud? 2 sones vs 4 sones). It also came with an updated cover, so the fan looks, sounds, and feels like a brand new installation!
WILoveTrains Would you mind sharing a link? I have a Broan 50 CFM and it doesn't wick the moisture much at all. I would like to upgrade just the motor and fan not the entire thing but wasn't able to find an exact replacement with higher CFM. Please let me know where you purchased your replacement and what CFM does it have? Thank you!
@@Lesikaification do you know the model number of your fan? If so you can search on Home Depot for Broan Xxxx upgrade kit
@@starrywarz yes it's a Broan 688-k but all I could find so far was the same 50 CFM replacement.
@@Lesikaification search for 205964212 on Home Depot website. That should take you to the upgrade kit which is listed for 688 in description!
@@Lesikaification if you need something with more CFMS, aka a larger fan you’ll likely have to buy a new fan and cut a larger hole in the ceiling etc. but for a quick upgrade this is easy and worked for me
I appreciate your methodical breakdown on replacing the bathroom exhaust fan. Your research on what type of fan to get and why was very helpful. Also, The how to portion on replacing an existing fan was extremely helpful. thank you
Thank you for the post/feedback and glad to be of help!:)
By far the best video for someone who needs to replace their bathroom fan, thanks a lot!
I am upgrading my bathroom fan, and I am installing the same one you used. I thought I would check my venting tube which runs horizontally about 20 feet to the side of my house. I removed my outside vent, and I found bird nests in there. I cleaned it out, and it filled up a bucket. So I would suggest you check that venting to be sure it is clear of debris.
That is AWESOME!:) Great find/tip:). Birds will nest in the oddest place.
Indeed according to the size of the bathroom that's where you need the space underneath the door He's advanced in the room
Are you John Cena's brother?
Hahaah 1st thing I thought when the video started.
@@michaelleddy3701 me too, brother
Don't insult the guy. Come on.
@@JonO387 John Cena has done more the Make-a-Wish foundation than any other celebrity.
@@phrebh OK?
This is a problem we have had in our bathroom for quite some time. Thanks to your video, I am now able to fix the problem.
Glad to be of help and best of luck!:)
Thanks for showing the removal and retrofit of new fan. Appreciate it!
glad to be of help!:)
Good gravy, bless this man's heart !!!!
Firstly, Fantastic video. Unlike another gentleman, who said it's beyond his ability to follow this, I'm very handy, and I will 100% be upgrading my fan myself using the training I received from your video. One question that always stumps me on electrical jobs: Where do I connect the green ground wire? You just said "coil it" ... but where do I screw it onto? I usually screw it onto the metal casing with the ground-screw attached to the casing. But I didn't see you attach it anywhere. Thanks for the response.
Thanks for the post/feedback and glad to be of help!:) The green is used for ground and should attached to the bare copper wire coming from the wire group (white, black, copper). Sometimes you may see a green screw the housing or casing, and this can be used as well.
Ok Thanks !! I will definitely be commenting this week as to how my installation goes. Thank you so much again !!
I put 2 exhaust fans in my shower room, on a timer, when I built my house in 1983. Turn it on after showering. Does the job fast, but gotta crack the bathroom door to let in enough air. Clears the mirror fog fast too.
Thanks for the post/feedback:).
I think code requires the use of a Romex clamp where the wires enter the box. I’d annotate the video and add that point in there, it’s very unsafe to go without one.
Great point and thank you for the post!:) I will post an add note in the description and see if I can overlay that part of the video with a notation on the clamp as well.
Just discovered that UA-cam removed the free form annotation feature - ouch:). I will pin a related comment to the top and add a note in the description:).
How is it "very unsafe"?
@@bguen1234 Years of vibration can cause the wire to get a cut in it from the sharp sheet metal fan box. The clamp acts as a grommet to protect the wire's insulation.
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists Yeah, so not "very unsafe" or even very likely. But a simple plastic grommet is probably a good idea.
Great video, thank you very much. I need to do exactly the same thing in my bathroom, and the attic space is so remote and tight, there's no practical way for me to get in there to do it the standard way. My old one never really worked well, and I took it apart to realize that the fan motor either runs backward, or the impeller is made for the opposite direction. It actually moves very little air, because of this. So, I'm going to get one of the same ones you installed, and get it done. Thank you again, this video was extremely helpful, especially your detailed explanations and up close video.
Thanks for the post/feedback and glad to be of help!:) No fun when the bathroom walls are wet and start to streak, etc. When I saw this happen in my bathroom, it was time to take action:).
RealWorld well, I got it done yesterday afternoon. I had to wrestle with the exhaust port and hose adaptor, but it was a lot easier after watching your step by step directions. Thanks again.
Great to hear and glad to be of help!:) Remember to leave the fan on a bit after each shower in order to clear the room ... the larger fan should handle the job:).
Reducing your exhaust diameter I have found will make the unit work harder so I'm glad you had a 4-inch exhaust. I would not recommend anyone tapering down if the fan is requiring a certain diameter You're only going to make the unit work that much harder. If you wanted to be extremely safe while you worked also you could pull out the switch off the wall and disconnect it there and cap that so that you could turn the lights back on and definitely not worried that you have any power up at the exhaust fan and then just reattach the switch when you're done. Why wouldn't you secure it with the holes on the flashing?? Also never use duct tape in an area like that when that duct tape dry rots as it will it's going to let loose I would have used metal tape, that stuff will never degrade. Also some covers are larger and you sometimes need to make sure that you're going to have clearance you are pretty close there to that corner I would have measured how much overlap that was going to take and mention that in the video but you got lucky.
Good point Chad and thx for the post. The fan will work a bit harder but will still work. It's like exhaling with your mouth open and doing the same with your lips place together forming a small hole (like whistling). the same amount of air will flow out, but you will need to push a bit more when whistling.
Thank you for this video, you've given me the courage to replace my bathroom fan! I'm buying a slightly different one, but I think the basics should still be close enough!
Glad to be of help!:) If I can do it, you can to!:)
Good job, right up to the electrical work. You need a need a romex connector and a wire nut on the ground. Please do not tell your viewers, that you don't need one on the ground.
Agreed and thank you for the post. I pinned a comment to the top of all comments to let others know the same:).
Great video ,I currently have the same problem you had, the calculation you provided will be a huge help!
Glad to be of help Kevin!:) Still working strong today!:)
Thank you this was fantastic, I’m confident the power was off at the switch and wouldn’t be doing that in the dark was the only thing I noticed. Otherwise this is what I’ll be doing. Hoping mine is easier as it’s changing a Broan for another brown but more powerful
thanks for the post gary and hopefully your project went/goes well! :)
Thank you for the great video. You have really explained some of the smaller details I had questions about.
The real question is where the end of the fan duct terminated since your old fan was actually working. I found out my bathroom fan ducts all went to vented soffit and simply dangled on top by lazy builder/contractors, and not actually vented to the outside correctly through the side walls nor the roof. Check your outdoor vent if you can find it.
You make a good point ... check the route of air flow to ensure nothing is off or blocked as this might be the root cause.
Any suggestions as to how to find it? Is there a way to trace venting??
@@kathryndegraaf7115 You'll need the access to the attic or the opposite side of the wall where the fan is installed to find where the connected duct leads out to.
One 'rule of thumb' is that the minimum CFM required is = to the square footage of the room, so a bathroom of 60 sqft, would need a 60 cfm fan. Also, you can buy fans that are almost silent today, and still have the CFM needed, but you pay more for quietness.
Thanks for the post and good point Paul:). I would stress the word 'minimum' as more might be desired to really move the air. I also thought about the quiet factor but realized most people may want a louder fan to mask ... uhhhhh ... various sounds:).
ahaha i'm guilty of the fan mask myself. works like a charm
When buying paint for bathroom let the paint department what you are painting.At Home Depot you can add a additive for about five bucks that when mixed with the paint it will greatly
reduce those black spots due to moisture,but adding the fan with more cfm is a necessity .
Great idea regarding the paint:).
Thank you for the video, maybe something I need to look at in my bathroom, that needs replacing, get wet spots above my shower
I can't find video that is bad or uninteresting. Real role model. Can we get update on this, did new vent help moisture situation ?
thanks for the post/question:). yes, this worked for me as the air flow has improved. i will also add that we leave the door over and the fan on after the shower for 5-10 mins.
@@RealWorld Thanks for answer. I just moved to new apartment and seems like we have same problem so I might give it a go :)
If moisture on walls appeared after the reno, even after leaving the fan on for 20 minutes means he didn't use bathroom rated paint. Seems silly BUT bathroom-rated paint exists for a reason, it has chemicals that help avoid moisture from being absorbed.
You can also paint the bathroom with semi-gloss or glossy paint, just keep in mind these paints require more attention when applying them because the overlaying of the roll is more pronounced if you are not applying the same amount of paint all over the surface.
Thanks for the post/feedback and you make a good point:). Consider bathroom rated paint which will help.
#1. Until you clean the lint that is blocking screen out at the vent exit, the fan airflow will not be great. Every bathroom fan in the USA has a outlet with louvers and a wire screen that can't be easily removed. I had to snake 12 feet of shop vac hose to reach the screen in my duct outlet. Then the fan worked great for the first time since I owned the house. Next time I will try blowing the lint back down the duct to see if that is easier. #2. Use a squeegee to get most of the water off the shower walls into the drain and the place dries out much faster.
Thanks for the post/feedback Dana!:) Great tip on the vent exit! I had the same on my dryer vent but not certain about the shower vent ... time to take a closer look:).
thanks for the video, I've been trying to wrap my head around how to make this remodel fan without destroying the old housing. it seems more beneficial to completely redo the whole thing.
Thanks for the post ... hang in there:).
Very good video. Because it is detailed it shows all aspects of the job. I did not have to remove the housing but if I have to, I can do it with help from this video.
Thanks for the post Barry and glad to be of help!:)
What I can't figure out is people that refuse to turn the fan on when they crap, do they like the smell?? I think I'm going to wire the lights and fan together on a timer so there's no way around it.
lol - good point and i like the idea!:)
i like the noise too. privacy. :)
Flush the toilet as soon as the crap hits it. Problem solved!
LOL - yes, that is another solution!:)
Had the same problem. I just wired the toilet seat so that when a toilet user sits down the 110 volts gets switched from the toilet seat to the fan. Only had a couple of bugs to work out but my attorney says he's taking care of that.
Excellent. Very detailed. Thank you! A Sawzall with a short hacksaw blade would have made quick work of that staple. Or a simple "frameless" hacksaw designed for tight spaces.
Thanks for the post and agreed - a sawzall would have been nice:).
At 25:39 he needs to install a type NM cable connector in the wire entry hole per NEC code.
This to prevent any chafing of the conductor insulation that will over time cause a ground fault, short circuit or potential electrical fire hazard.
Thanks for the feedback Mike!:) Agreed.
Very thorough walk through, and clear and concise narration. Thank you! and Subscribed.
ty and welcome to the channel! :)
I'm super late to this video, but this was superb instruction! Calm, Cool, and Collected - Well Done 👍
thank you! :)
Looking forward to an update. Thanks for all you do.
What a great vid. Having the same problems with my small bathroom & the exhaust fan is only 50cfm. I'm gonna go ahead & upgrade to a higher cfm & use your video as a guide. Thank you much brother.
Thanks for the post/feedback and glad to be of help!:) The moisture control in my bathroom is much better since installing the new fan:).
Installing my exhaust fan... as I get to the wires, there is a black & white in ceiling, but no copper for the ground wire.... is that a problem????
Typically electrical wiring should have 3 wires (black, white, and copper). The copper is used for ground. The fan will run without a copper ground but this creates a safety issue if a ground is needed for any reason (i.e. lightening strike, etc.).
RealWorld thank you much for your response & knowledge.
God Bless you brother.
Glad to be of help and may God bless you and your family!:)
Whenever you join two indifferent wire metals together, such be copper w/aluminum 'you should need squirt oxide corrosive paste into the wire nut.& securely tighten it as otherwise it will have but a short life span. So many contractors/handyman & homeowners discard doing this & then blame the manufacturer. Just as if you install outside wires exposed to rain is a good idea to likewise squirt a shot of 100% silicone calk in the wire nut as you first twist the wires together & then tighten the wire nut onto the wires w/the silicone, It makes for good protection from electrocution.. I am a good man on hand, Dave the Handyman.
Thanks for the post/suggestions Dave - great idea re the silicone plug!:)
why not dielectric grease?
Thanks for video - gonna be upgrading my 50cfm to the same model you used. 🤙🏽
I can do many DYI. But for the middle of the road person, up on a ladder doing this job is on the difficult side. What is it worth in YOUR time. If you have the experience, go for it. Most of us this is not an easy project. Thanks.Rick
Hi Rick and thanks for the post/feedback:). The task can be a bit daunting but doable depending on the situation.
This is perfect. I have the same contractor fan and need to replace it. This is better than a manufacturer video.
Thanks for the post/feedback:). If I can do it, so can you:). This solved my issue.
Exactly what I needed! Thanks for the details for amateurs like me. Mine was built in 1999 too and the motor sounded seized, which woke the dead up every time anyone used it. LOL
LOL - glad to be of help and I know the sound!:)
Best thing I ever did was replace my fan switches with timer switches. Press the 30 minute button, take a shower, leave...fan keeps running long after I'm gone and I don't have to worry about going back to turn it off. Same thing with dropping a deuce. Press the 10 minute button and let it air out! If I've been out having beers and taco bell...maybe need to run that bad boy for 60 minutes!
LMAO - nice!:) Seriously though, I like the timer!:)
You made it look easy. Thanks for posting a detailed and easy to follow video
Glad to be of help!:)
Hi. Thanks for video and helpful instructions.
Please do yourself and everyone else a favor and wear eye protection, particularly looking up into sheetrock work and fiberglass. As a doctor, I'm tired of taking chunks and stuff out of people's eyes, only to hear them say, "Well, I guess I shudda." True story: I had one guy come in for his second eye injury, exactly like the first, a year later to the week. Hit by a chip of fresh cedar that I had to remove; had abrasion of the eye and chemical conjunctivitis from the cedar oils. Never came back, and I'm not sure if it was because of the crap I gave him or he started using safety goggles.
Keep up the good work.
LOL - absolutely and THANK YOU for the post/tip!:) I know a few people who trapped various particles in their eyes. You make a great point which is much appreciated.
thank you, very clear and shot well so I could see what to do
glad to be of help!:)
A bit of rattling noise coming from the base, put a bead of silicone between the drywall and the steel base and you should hear no noise
Thanks for the post/tip!:)
Or throw another screw into the housing. It was loose. You can see when he pushes on it the housing moves. Not secure enough.
@@jerodtier3269 it's a bit loose but no problems as of today:) good tip though
Regarding the suggested timer - it's very tempting but it requires a "neutral" (4th wire) which does not exist in older houses wiring. - Maybe there is a 3 wires model out there that I could use.
Good point and I would need to check into this further (3 vs 4 wire).
Awesome video! Thank you! I feel confident to do this to my bathroom now!
Glad to be of help ... If I can do it, so can you!:)
Just use a Rome clamp to do it right.
Excessive CFM is nullified by the 4" to 3* reducer. (Bad idea). Go to the manufacturers website for proper installation. Also dimmable lights ,humidity sensors, variable fan speeds all require special switches on the wall. Upgrades may require more than you think.
reducers are fine depending on the volume
Best to get ones with an over run timer. That way you can conect it to your light switch and it comes on with the light and when you turn the light off it off the fan runs for 20 minutes
Thanks for the post/tip Kelly and agreed:). Timers are a big help to ensure the fan runs over for a set amount of time.
Thank you for getting back to me . Enjoyed your Video
Glad to be of help Steven:). I typically post videos about photography but also conduct a good amount of everyday repairs:).
Super Useful Video. Thank you for taking time.
I had exact same problem and replaced my fan and it immediately took care of the problem.
Definitely need to use a screw in wire connector that will protect the wiring from being damaged by the sharp sheet metal edges if there is any vibration or shifting of wires in the attic.
thanks for post and agreed:).
I have the same problem but worse. I have a son that spends an hour taking a shower I repainted and the mold came back. I am going to install larger fan and uses kilz primer and use semigloss paint
lol - you are on the right path ... i did the same - although i believe i used primer and satin instead of semi-gloss (i believe satin is one step down from semi-gloss regarding sheen):).
I just leave a small tower fan in the bathroom on, that usually does the trick, I don't have a vent in the bathroom.
My question is how much good does it do to try push more cfms thru a 3" vent ? The Fan is designed for 4" and you're reducing/restricting the flow. That's defeeting the purpose of the replacement ! In my 40+years of working in New home construction as a plumber, I've never seen an electrical use a reducer.
I realize it's more of a job to do it right, but thats my plan, even if I have to convert to a roof vent or pull a 4"thru with the old 3"
Also if the wall switch or timer is off, there's no need to work in the dark ! Also replacing a switch with a timer is much better. It allows you to crank the timer to the max as you leave to maximize run time to vent even more humidity.
We keep our master suite cooler which causes more condensation so it's time for an upgrade.
Very clear tutorial. Not to be picky, but I didn’t see a connector or wire clamp when the power supply entered the housing through the feed hole. Did I miss it. Thank you
Glad to be of help:). I did not show in the video but you should use a wire clamp where the wires enter the housing.
You are a good communicator. However, the installation of the fan could have been better. You only secured the fan housing box on one side; Not good for noise and vibration. A pro would have added some framing to screw the other side of the box to.
Appreciate the feedback:). Fortunately, the fan is not heavy and the RPMs are relatively low, so attaching to one joist did the trick:).
If you have a bathroom without an exterior window (I assume that is what this is), then just wire the fan up to the light so it always comes on. Bathrooms setup like this usualy automatically run the fan for a number of minutes after the light is switched off. That would get rid of your, people not turning the fan on problem. Installing a bigger fan which people still dont turn on wont achieve much
You are on the right path but the fan should stay on when the lights go off (when you leave the bathroom/shower) for a given duration of time (10-20 mins). I like the timers for this purpose:).
I'm necroing this thing but heres info to help installers. Mark your drywall and remove the appropriate amount prior to removing the housing. Then you can easily remove it as the sheetrock will be out of your way.
I appreciate your clear and thorough explanations.
Glad to be of help!:)
Excellent and timely video for me...as I actually am refreshing two bathrooms in my house and both will need new fans! Got to say though, you made it look easy. I would have sliced my fingers to shreds pulling out that old housing, and would have invented new combinations of four-letter words when taping that ducting to the housing :-))) Thanks again for a very informative and well produced video!
LOL - thanks for the post/feedback and glad to be of help!:) If I can do it so can you!:)
If you remove wiring in the order black, white, green and connect it in the order green, white, black you will be even safer (even if there's a current when there shouldn't be).
Hopefully power is off:).
the best fan replacement tutorial!
No, he actually does a lot of things wrong, starting by using the wrong sized fan.
UA-cam is the biggest spreader of misinformation and most of you idiots are too clueless to realize it.
great video, thanks for detailed information, am confident now to re-do the renovation. Thanks
Thanks for explaining how a shower works!
i was equally impressed.