It seems UA-cam has yet again messed up the processing of a video. It happens a couple of times a year. Hopefully, HD/4K will be available in a few hours. It has nothing to do with the file I upload it's 100% a screwup on UA-cam's end.
Oh no, now you've given my wife ideas about replacing the sound insulation in our engine compartment. I think I will have to watch your videos when she's not around. Seriously though, we love what you've done in the engine compartment, it is beautiful to look at. Cheers.
You are gradually transforming your yacht from a water worn stone back to a beautiful gem. Pursuant to that I offer an observation regarding your new day tank in the engine bay. I suggest that a combination of large flat surfaces combined with a significant volume of diesel contained within it might cause your tank to resonate and act like an amplifier comparable to the resonating organ employed by whales to amplify sound. Other safety considerations notwithstanding some kind of sound deadening bulkhead between the engine bay and the day tank might at least be a good idea from that perspective alone.
One of the things that has amazed me about your progress with Athena is that you appear to have done it without drinking a single cup of tea. For an Englishman like me that would be a quite impossible feat (watch the Binky videos for a great example of the fundamental role tea has in British engineering) but you Danish clearly have a different constitution. Good job.
Mads. Try Keypart in Watford, England for your volvo parts. Exhaust elbow is a known fault on the 2020, 2030, D1 & D2 non turbo engines. The issue other than clogging the exhaust outlet is the fact the water injection point from the heat exchanger and the injection point inside the elbow both clog reducing the water flow and in some cases putting some sea water back in the exhaust manifold. This then affects the exhaust outlet valve in the head which no longer seats, lowers compression and eventually fails. Keypart do a SS manifold to replace the original. It's about £240.00 The good thing about this is it can be removed every other year and dipped in brick acid to remove the build-up where-as the cast iron one just rots away regardless. PM or mail us we have a lot of info we can give you on the Volvo's that may be of use. Sail safe Ant & Cid xx
That engine space is looking good Mads. Just reading these viewer comments I don't think I'll be going anywhere near Volvo when the time comes. I'm sure you'll find a sensible solution.
New viewer here who is looking for and finding inspiration after binge-watching over the last couple of weeks. We've just bought a 32 footer for restoration, our first project, and your videos really do help. O-rings aren't all the same, but most are neoprene (ish) and should be cheap (no need to buy expensive Kalrez from DuPont for this application). Go to a hydraulic supplier and be shocked how cheap they are.
I suggest going to a bearing and seal distributor and take one of those o'rings and get them to match them up in their book and give you a quote. Just don't get mad and go back to the marine parts house and start throwing things through the window. You should get the old elbow repaired and save it for an emergency. Just be sure and coat it in corrosion prevention and seal it in a ziploc bag.
The mechanical fasteners are a good idea, mostly because the method we employ to remove adhesive is with heat guns. I'm pretty sure that heat guns won't be necessary to remove the adhesive in an operating engine compartment. I'm also impressed with your method of applying the insulation. That is the exact same technique I teach my crew. Props on figuring it out without any instruction.
Mads - you should find yourself some DEVCON - a pretty clever epoxy - we use it on exhaust manifolds and heads. - Recommendation - prepare the surface a little similar to the way you would repair fibre glass with massive clean up and taper / batter to allow a good bonding area - - over fill the indentartion then sand back to desired shape / contour. this will give you a reliable fix for the medium term - then have your hearts delight in chasing up a work around with threaded sleeve. The DEVCON is commercial grade and really good at doing its job. With respect to cleaning out the hear exchanger again - I would use a really decent descaler - inlieu of disassembly - ever 24 months. We use Rydlyme MILSPEC and really good at what it does + properly biodegrade able - some will suggest a crude acid wash - not recommended - very hard to get the concentrations right with your particular engine. there is bound to be a distributor somewhere in Nth Europe - have a look at www.apexengineeringproducts.com/products/rydlyme-chemical-descaler/
Blistering cold lol. Here's a better substitute. An old sailor would say " cold enough to freeze the balls off a brass monkey" some might think the saying is somehow off color. Is not it refers to in the old days they kept the Canon balls on a bronze rack that when it got super cold would shrink enough to drop the balls on the deck causing mayhem. when out to sea your ammo might just roll off the deck and out the scuppers or perhaps down the steps ruining someone's day. Love the videos keep them coming.
I have been bingeing on your channel for the last few weeks now. I first saw one of your newer videos and was surprised to see that you have almost 300 episodes. That’s amazing. What’s more amazing is the transformation of your skills and abilities as a performer. Kudos. I don’t know what is more dramatic, the changes in Obelix and Athena, or in you. I have recorded video series for computer training before and know how hard it is. You do a great job and pass along some wonderful information. I am also refitting a sailboat, a Columbia 10.7 in Waukegan, IL. Unfortunately, it’s much harder to live aboard such a boat in the Great Lakes. The water often freezes hard. Boats come out of the water every year. My plan is to get my boat fully refitted for living aboard, and then sailing over to Europe. The ideal scenario would be to spend the summer up in and around your area and then sail down to the Med for the winter. But that will be several years from now. Keep up the good work!
Try rescue the exhaust elbow by sandblasting it and have a good welder weld the weakend areas, I did that with an old Volvo once and it worked a treat. And, nice engine compartmant!
Hi Mads. The optimum material for the exhaust bend would be super duplex also known as SAF2507 or German Werkstoff nummer 1.4410. However it will be very expensive, so you could settle for the standard Volvo solution, and accept to change it when worn out. Regarding your hightech diesel tank, you should get some copper grease for the treads on all the bolts for the lids sticking out the top of the tank in order to prevent coldwelding between the nuts and bolts. If that happens, and it happens really easy, you will never get the nuts of the bolt again without having to cut the bolt of. However being a sailer you may allready know that. Super project and great videos, I love your perfectionism and high standards. Br. Tom
I feel your engine pain my friend. Unable to take it anymore I finally made the leap of faith and switched to an electric motor. No more smell, no more noise, no more diesel fuel, no more oil filters, no transmission, no more $80 O-rings and only a small fraction of the maintenance. The difference is unbelievable. And unfortunately that beautiful engine compartment you created won’t stay that way for long. My only regret is not doing it sooner.
My last comment did not post, so this might seam out of order. I was saying you can see if you can find a welding shop in your area that is able to fix your exhaust pipe so you won’t have to spend that much money on a new one. I know in the US there are welding shops that can fix it, since a lot of exhaust manifolds on cars and trucks are cast iron. Good luck and keep up the great work you are doing.
Hi Mads I would be suspect of that exhaust elbow. On the top ,or outside of the bend there seams to be an epoxy patch, rite at the place where turbulence would wash and Carole the medal away causing a week point or pinhole. I would definitely replace it with oem or a diy solution. DIY often turns out to be a better solution. Great watching your progression thru this refit. It's going to be beautiful and solid when it's all complete. Cheers
Hi Mess I have been following your UA-cam channel for a few years and would love to own an Albin Ballad one day. I am an Aircraft Engineer and was interested in the Exhaust Pipe from the Heat Exchanger problems you have. The O ring seals that you have bought you could of sourced from else where they are very expensive and the Exhaust hole you could get it welded and then low pressure test it by blanking the ends and having one adapted with a bicycle wheel valve and pump it up with a bicycle hand pump to see if it is still leaking. I really enjoy the whole UA-cam adventure and watch each episode Craig
Gawd, I wish my engine was sitting outside the engine compartment when I had to clean the heat exchanger! BTW, a slightly acidic solution cleans the tubes nicely. When I bought the boat, mine were 90% plugged. A little vinegar worked amazing!
Mads, seal the edges of the sound insulation with aluminum tape. Dont leave any exposed foam, as it will absorb dieseĺ fumes etc, and over time break down
Removable panel between engine and fuel tank = Good idea. As for the engine bay, you're into Spinal Tap territory! Your Spiffy-ness meter just went up to 11!
That compartment is lookin great. Good job. take that elbow to a machinist and get them to build you a better version than what you have now. Peace and be safe out there.
Hi Mads, have you thought of having someone make you a set of metal end caps for the heat exchanger? I think those plastic caps are causing the leak. I would clean off the corrosion where is was leaking beneath the aft end of the heat exchanger with a wire bush and paint. With a fresh surface, you will be able to watch it to see if the leak/corrosion comes back. Regards, Ken.
Came here after scratching my head about the o-rings in the diagram. As well about them being, now $25 each! Are you freaking kidding me? And I have two engines to do
athena is looking nice. have been watching since last spring and it looks like alot of progress has been made on her. well done and can't wait to see her in the water again.
Hi Mads, great video as usual. I don’t normally comment, but on your tank mounts I’m concerned that you are pulling outwards on the tank tabs and stressing the tank corner unnecessarily - and risking a fatigue crack. A better approach would be to use a sleeve on the bolt which will take the clamp load and a pair of mount rubbers between the sleeve and the tank to hold the tank in position without unduly stressing it. If this method is not clear I can send you a sketch..
Great job on the engine compartment. Don't forget to put a light over the fuel tank also. Rather then a dimmer, you might want separate switches for the lights (port and stbd) and then you can have one, the other or both. Get your solid gold o-ring sizes and go to the local car part or hardware store and buy spares. The suggestion to paint parts different color based on what year it was worked on is a really good idea. Also, when they were going to sell the boat they probably painted all the hoses, so it isn't an alarm bell. But never paint a flexible hose. Painting it will hide possible problems. around the access to the compartment just take strips of the left over material and tape it on. If you are worried about it being bumped out, use the thinner material.
Mads--just a couple of $$$-saving points: 1. Get an 'O'-ring kit (NAPA or other), and you'll have all the o-rings (all sizes) you'll ever need for the rest of your life, for just a few bucks, presupposing you have a good tube of super-glue. I've tested mine to 3,000 psi for over 30 years without a failure. 2. On 'Sailing Emerald Steel', Jules shows how to make an exhaust elbow for a small fraction of the new one you bought. I think total cost for the parts was less than $50--perhaps as little as $30. Best of luck,,,
After you get you a new elbow..... Take the old one and get it grazed or welded in the weak area(s) and keep it for an emergency replacement in case of breakdown in some remote place. Maybe it can be repaired and then ceramic coated(no idea if it can be done or if it would work) Just a thought to save some money later on.peace and fair winds buddy.
Just a suggestion. I recommend when you replace fix parts which require removal to fix, you paint the new parts a different color based on the year replace/repaired (e.g. this year red, next year yellow, the year after blue etc). After a few years you will instantly recognize the amount of work you've performed on the engine and also know in advance what really needs the maintenance. It is a sure fire way to being able to predict future failures and it does make an interesting topic of discussion when giving a tour or sundowners... Just sayin it would be very 'Spiffy'! p.s. I've done this for the last 30 years on all the engines I've owned (including aircraft engines) and it really is amazing what you can start predicting after a few years. ;)
I have no experience with engine repair at all, but I was thinking that as he was doing his heat exchanger repair. Just clean and repaint whatever you just serviced or replaced, yes your engine would look patchwork but you'd have a good picture of what means maintain to replace the most.
Engine room needs a log book for maintenance, checklists and time schedule for replacements and cleaning. The big boat engine rooms do it, but yachts should too. Now I have given you 3 cents for what it's worth.
I've never thought about your suggestion, but that's a perfect idea! Your engine may look like the Partridge Family bus, but it'll make maintenance easier. Good job!
Great video Mads. Penta roughly translates to "5 or more time price". Add marine and there you have it. I agree with what many have said. Lubricate O rings, torque cover, spec replacements, and tape exposed wires and edge of insulation.
Exhaust elbow. Maybe a heliarc weld with a 309 or 316 stainless cover which will delay further corrosion and add long life on the part. Of course multi passes required but an easy solution . After many years in the business maybe a smart less expensive repair.
Hey mads, thanks for the stickers! When ya do engine work it will pay off if you use anti seize on all your fasteners and use a torque wrench when you can to get an idea of proper torque if your not used to it. Leaks love improper torque. Also... a normal dimmer may not work with the LEDs. Bias needs a specific voltage and most leds are on or off. Ya may need a PWM, i posted about it last week.
Mas, I see when you removed the hose on the exhaust hose that someone painted over it. Although it's nice to have what looks like a nice new engine to show off to all your friends, I'd rather know just what's going on. I would assume that someone has painted your engine to hide age or issues. I would check it out very very carefully. Volvo parts aren't always the easiest to get in some corners of the world I hear. I took my heat exchanger to a radiator shop where they boiled it out for me in a chemical bath for 5 dollars. It came out like brand new!! NICE!
I've occasioned the high cost of OEM parts before and discovered that "O" rings are pretty standard in the industry. Those parts would have probably cost you less than $2 for all four had you bought them from an industrial gasket supplier. The last time I needed one the sales agent just gave it to me and told me to look him up when I had a larger order. For proper size you only need bring the housing with you to the gasket supplier.
I totally agree these companies are so good at making us believe you must only buy their replacement parts,and as they also know many people would not know where else to go or how to find parts, they charge any price they want, know most will say omg but pay, service and re-furb kits can be the same!!! a total rip off, they come with a few washers and o rings and cost nearly as much as replacing the whole part!l
Indeed -- look in the yellow pages for "Seal Suppliers" or "Hydraulic Spares". Most bearing supply houses also sell O-rings. And bearing (eg ball, roller, needle, taper roller etc) are also generic standard and cost cents on the dollar when you buy them from industrial wholesalers. Don't go for cheap Chinese ones, though ... at least, not yet.
Hi If is cast iron you can use special rod to weld it. Any engineer shop who work with engine should be able to fix it for a fraction of the money, old cast iron manifold used to crack. When you change your o ring, always is good practice wet them with some washing liquid, in UK (fairy liquid). Some people use oil. But personally I prefer this. Good luck, everything is looking amazing.
Take the cast elbow to a competent welding shop. Drill out the hole to make sure it is not a stress crack. Have them braze it up and it should last a very long time. Never did cast brazing for a marine environment but there is no reason that it wont last. Consider vibration pads for the motor feet and the engine room will be silent but deadly...or spiffy!
Great work, as usual. Do yourself a favor and use high temp antisieze (copper base) on every threaded moment on that engine (can get it at an automotive supply). Future you will be thankful. Also anytime there are mineral or rust build up I use CLR, wonderful stuff. Would make that part you were washing, or any other look like new (environmentally safe, won't hurt your part). Have a beautiful week.
Mads, I didn't catch what else is holding the fuel tank in? The standard for seaworthiness, is whatever it takes to keep big heavy important things in their place when the boat rolls upside down. A seaworthy boat must be able to roll upside down, right itself, and remain functional afterwards. Two strong bolts are enough, but located off center will allow the tank to rotate.
Mads, find a Hydraulic Supply and make a list of any seals and parts you may need. Then go to a good helpful auto supply and get several pairs of o rings that you may need to store away for those sure to need future repairs and some rolls or sheets of gasket material to be able to make your own gaskets of any type. If you ever have to replace a motor, Yanmar!!! Oh ya, You're the Mad Man!!!
Stainless 316L is the preferred material for exhaust elbows. Also, more importantly, unless the water lift muffler is well below the engine, which is almost impossible on sailboats of this size, some kind of exhaust loop is needed before the water injection into the exhaust. Otherwise, in rough seas, salt water will slosh backward/forward and into the engine, eventually doing damage. Suggest you refer to Nigel Calder book for the details.
Mads, I have binge watched all of your Athena videos, and two things strike me: 1) your commitment to producing an excellent refit is commendable and truly impressive, and 2) I have been really disappointed with the build quality of the boat, especially the disastrous drainage issues you have found under the sole. I can see how you fell in love with Warrior 38, because the boat really does have beautiful lines, but do you ever regretyour choice in light of the build quality issues you have uncovered?
Hi Mads! Tef Gel is great to prevent corrosion between aluminium and stainless steel in wet environment. I think you don't need it on your stainless steel tank, fastened with stainless steel bolts/nuts. Spare Tef Gel for places like your rig (mast/boom) where it works a treat. Keep up the good work!
Good idea to use those plastic discs for securing isolation sheets, even the the glue feels gripping really well, sheets starts falling sooner or later (i have 11 years experiense of building and maintaining ventilation units and we used the same type material).
Seems the way you have mounted the engine lights, velcro would have been an optimal choice then you have option of easily moving around a bit if ever needed. Two sided sticky tape would be another avenue, either way would be secure and keep from having to puncture the integrity of insulation sheeting. Just my though from a viewer standpoint, regardless nice job mate. I so appreciate the quality and extra effort you apply throughout! Good day sir
Joe, Velcro glued on with contact cement or two sided sticky tape won't hold up in that environment. I installed similar lights in my cabins in the Florida heat. They fell off in about a month. The temp in his engine bay will be much higher.
@@gking5522 Touché, I agree with your reply. Let me say first that my comment was in no way meant to insult or imply Mads was doing anything wrong as said I appreciate his desire to over-do so many applications. I believe that in itself is what surprised me in just screwing into the insulation mat. My first thought was it seemed substandard based on his general ways of going about doing things. After commenting, I further realized that the foil backing on the insulation may in fact not be strong enough to hold sticky tape over time regardless just due to gravity and bouncing around at sea. I personally wouldve epoxied thin layer of wood (1/4") between mat and underside of cockpit floor so as to have something to attach screws into and cut small hole under light to run and hide wire wire. But again, what he is not doing is not wrong and certainly his to do with as he pleases. I'm certain he has a plan and will be very nice once completed. Like u, I live along the gulf coast and very much agree in hindsight with the heat factor. Thank you for responding and clearing up my hasty suggestion. That said, I definitely like the amount of light he has installed. Fair winds my friend ...
Before installing the tank, did you shorten those two large drain hoses? The originals were shorter. The current ones hang down with a low point in them that will hold water & potentially freeze & crack. The original hoses were shorter without that low point. The engine bay is looking GREAT btw!!!
Hello. Nice work. Just so you know the engine is in fact not a volvo engine it's a Perkins 400 series/CAT. What makes it volvo is the marine parts. The heat exchanger/pump etc. If you need any parts for the engine itself try Perkins or CAT as they will possibly be cheaper. looks like a 404/22 to me.
Ian C carefull Volvo does manufacture there own enigines though they make look almost the same, do the research d2 is a Volvo engine if I am not mistaken
@@tylerharris3907 . Hi. The Volvo Penta D'series below 2.2 litre is a Perkins/CAT engine. They add the marine parts and paint it green. The core engine is the same.originally a Japanese design from ISM JV with Perkins. I know this becasue I am working on the Perkins 400 series engine Stage 5 and I see them going down the production line . Good engines . Robust and simple.
I hope that you measured those O-rings made out of unobtainium so when you need a spare set you can just go to a place that sells hydraulic parts and buy another 4 of them for a couple of dollars. Also I hope you used some silicone grease (also called plumbers grease) on them when you put everything back together.
Hello! Great work again! one suggestion though: the frames around the engine compartment windows would be really useful to cover. You can do it separately - than put aluminium tape to cover the surface unevenness between the frame insulation and the wall insulation surface.
I have to chuckle, because often times I have that "sneaky suspicion" that I've ordered the wrong parts too. Concerning Volvo engines, cruising friends always advised me to steer clear of them simply because of the expense for repairs and replacement parts compared to other options. For my budget anyway. Not bad engines, just wicked expensive.
Mads, I say this with the authority of someone who has never mounted an LED lamp to sound insulation. With the spirit of hindsight, I would have suggested to poke a hole in the insulation, and pass the wires behind the insulation to have it look neater. You can still use the aluminum tape to cover up the wires, though.
Find your calipers and see the sizes of those O rings. Order some spares from stock sizes. Probably just a few dollars not 20 Euro each. That elbow doesn't look that far gone. A shop should be able o tig braze it no problem. Even if you have a new one a spare isn't a bad idea.
True, but ultimately, ditching the shi**y Volvo tick priced boutique shop item is the best solution. An oversized (in terms of thickness) replacement made from random and custom made parts would result in a more cost effective solution down the road. The engine itself isn't even worth the effort, it appears to be another engine, Perkins, that's been sprinkled with Volvo parts.
Hi Mads... Great vid as usual... I missed the danish cursing on the o-rings... Its hilarious... About the frame on the side windows on the engine compartment, try overlaping two thin stripes of the thinner isolation... Might just work! Keep up with the good work!!!
Hi! I recently came across your channel and have been binge watching. Loving what you are going! Spiffy! :) I know this is a year or more to late to be of any use, but My touch of OCD would have made me use the thinner insulation on the access hole frames and then use the metal tape to seal from foam to the frame. I will wait until I see what you have done. on to the next video..
Hi Mads: I recommend buying a new elbow from OEM manufacturer and a spare as well. It's hard to replace parts in far away ports. Also, put buttons on insulation all over as the adhesive will fail eventually. Cheers.
Great job with the engine compatment! 'got a VolvoPenta MD2040 and the exhaust elbow was clogged at the seawater inlet (which caused a seawater overpressure and a leak to the primary coolant). From the outside it looked like yours (partly rusted). I redrilled the seawater inlet, cleaned and repainted the thing and it works fine. Maybe get a quote for a spiffy rebuilt from duplex steel (1.4462) or alloy 625 (which should last forever). You can get EPDM O-rings from the shelf in any size for cents...
At 11:11 you talk about making the exhaust elbow out of stainless. One of the reasons the elbow is made out of lower class material is that it needs to be sacrificial, the cylinder head part is an alloy , stainless would eat away your engine head... hence stick to original parts...unless you want to sacrifice your wallet ;)
Hi. Great work again geez. Just a thought on the divider for the engine bay, can I suggest you make a template of the area before you get the engine in. I agree with your original idea, but you may find that having a template might make the divider fit better once you work out how you can install it with the engine in place. I just think you'll struggle to get decent dimensions for the divider with the engine in place. Any who "as you would say", your doing an amazing job so keep doing what your doing. On another note, your missus is doing well also. I received my stickers with a thank you note very promptly after ordering them. See you! Oh dear, I seem to be turning into you.
Yes. Compared with all the exotic woodworking and finishing gadgets, a real set of tools is a small expense. I keep hearing on all the sailing channels how much work is required to keep things operational, and then see they often don't have much more than a screwdriver and crescent wrench to work with.
I can fab up a new exhaust elbow for that engine in solid 316 stainless. Sadly, it'll cost ~$400 for one. Luckily, due to material costs and sizes, you get at least one free one at that price - maybe two free ones depending on the size of that flange. The best bet, both money-wise and convenience-wise would still be to cut off the flange and have it threaded to accept cheap Schedule 80 thick wall pipe from the home store.
That is a great looking engine compartment. With all that light reflecting foil working on the engine should be sweet. I have a Volvo Penta "The Red Engine" (Gasoline). Anytime I need parts for it, I try to find the automotive application that will work for me. Marine parts are 4 or 5 times more expensive. I'm not sure if you have that ability, when looking for parts for yours.
It seems UA-cam has yet again messed up the processing of a video. It happens a couple of times a year. Hopefully, HD/4K will be available in a few hours. It has nothing to do with the file I upload it's 100% a screwup on UA-cam's end.
Then I wait. I want to see the "spiffy" engine in all its 4k glory! ;)
its okay you will get more views from everyone checking back in for HD :)
Happy to wait.
FYI (as you were uncertain) bitumen is usually pronounced "bit-choo-men"
Godt, så behøver jeg ikke lede efter fejlen i min ende :D
Oh no, now you've given my wife ideas about replacing the sound insulation in our engine compartment. I think I will have to watch your videos when she's not around. Seriously though, we love what you've done in the engine compartment, it is beautiful to look at. Cheers.
You are gradually transforming your yacht from a water worn stone back to a beautiful gem.
Pursuant to that I offer an observation regarding your new day tank in the engine bay.
I suggest that a combination of large flat surfaces combined with a significant volume of diesel contained within it might cause your tank to resonate and act like an amplifier comparable to the resonating organ employed by whales to amplify sound.
Other safety considerations notwithstanding some kind of sound deadening bulkhead between the engine bay and the day tank might at least be a good idea from that perspective alone.
One of the things that has amazed me about your progress with Athena is that you appear to have done it without drinking a single cup of tea. For an Englishman like me that would be a quite impossible feat (watch the Binky videos for a great example of the fundamental role tea has in British engineering) but you Danish clearly have a different constitution. Good job.
Mads. Try Keypart in Watford, England for your volvo parts. Exhaust elbow is a known fault on the 2020, 2030, D1 & D2 non turbo engines. The issue other than clogging the exhaust outlet is the fact the water injection point from the heat exchanger and the injection point inside the elbow both clog reducing the water flow and in some cases putting some sea water back in the exhaust manifold. This then affects the exhaust outlet valve in the head which no longer seats, lowers compression and eventually fails. Keypart do a SS manifold to replace the original. It's about £240.00 The good thing about this is it can be removed every other year and dipped in brick acid to remove the build-up where-as the cast iron one just rots away regardless. PM or mail us we have a lot of info we can give you on the Volvo's that may be of use. Sail safe Ant & Cid xx
Yeah. That's one heck of a bright engine compartment. Two enthusiastic (and sunburnt) thumbs up! And Bitumen pronunciation is just fine.
That engine space is looking good Mads. Just reading these viewer comments I don't think I'll be going anywhere near Volvo when the time comes. I'm sure you'll find a sensible solution.
New viewer here who is looking for and finding inspiration after binge-watching over the last couple of weeks. We've just bought a 32 footer for restoration, our first project, and your videos really do help.
O-rings aren't all the same, but most are neoprene (ish) and should be cheap (no need to buy expensive Kalrez from DuPont for this application). Go to a hydraulic supplier and be shocked how cheap they are.
I suggest going to a bearing and seal distributor and take one of those o'rings and get them to match them up in their book and give you a quote. Just don't get mad and go back to the marine parts house and start throwing things through the window. You should get the old elbow repaired and save it for an emergency. Just be sure and coat it in corrosion prevention and seal it in a ziploc bag.
You’re in custom yacht super spiffiness with that engine compartment. Athena is going to rock the boatyard when she’s done. Congrats
The mechanical fasteners are a good idea, mostly because the method we employ to remove adhesive is with heat guns. I'm pretty sure that heat guns won't be necessary to remove the adhesive in an operating engine compartment.
I'm also impressed with your method of applying the insulation. That is the exact same technique I teach my crew. Props on figuring it out without any instruction.
Mads - you should find yourself some DEVCON - a pretty clever epoxy - we use it on exhaust manifolds and heads. - Recommendation - prepare the surface a little similar to the way you would repair fibre glass with massive clean up and taper / batter to allow a good bonding area - - over fill the indentartion then sand back to desired shape / contour. this will give you a reliable fix for the medium term - then have your hearts delight in chasing up a work around with threaded sleeve. The DEVCON is commercial grade and really good at doing its job. With respect to cleaning out the hear exchanger again - I would use a really decent descaler - inlieu of disassembly - ever 24 months. We use Rydlyme MILSPEC and really good at what it does + properly biodegrade able - some will suggest a crude acid wash - not recommended - very hard to get the concentrations right with your particular engine. there is bound to be a distributor somewhere in Nth Europe - have a look at www.apexengineeringproducts.com/products/rydlyme-chemical-descaler/
Blistering cold lol. Here's a better substitute. An old sailor would say " cold enough to freeze the balls off a brass monkey" some might think the saying is somehow off color. Is not it refers to in the old days they kept the Canon balls on a bronze rack that when it got super cold would shrink enough to drop the balls on the deck causing mayhem. when out to sea your ammo might just roll off the deck and out the scuppers or perhaps down the steps ruining someone's day. Love the videos keep them coming.
I have been bingeing on your channel for the last few weeks now. I first saw one of your newer videos and was surprised to see that you have almost 300 episodes. That’s amazing. What’s more amazing is the transformation of your skills and abilities as a performer. Kudos. I don’t know what is more dramatic, the changes in Obelix and Athena, or in you. I have recorded video series for computer training before and know how hard it is. You do a great job and pass along some wonderful information. I am also refitting a sailboat, a Columbia 10.7 in Waukegan, IL. Unfortunately, it’s much harder to live aboard such a boat in the Great Lakes. The water often freezes hard. Boats come out of the water every year. My plan is to get my boat fully refitted for living aboard, and then sailing over to Europe. The ideal scenario would be to spend the summer up in and around your area and then sail down to the Med for the winter. But that will be several years from now. Keep up the good work!
Try rescue the exhaust elbow by sandblasting it and have a good welder weld the weakend areas, I did that with an old Volvo once and it worked a treat. And, nice engine compartmant!
Hi Mads. The optimum material for the exhaust bend would be super duplex also known as SAF2507 or German Werkstoff nummer 1.4410. However it will be very expensive, so you could settle for the standard Volvo solution, and accept to change it when worn out. Regarding your hightech diesel tank, you should get some copper grease for the treads on all the bolts for the lids sticking out the top of the tank in order to prevent coldwelding between the nuts and bolts. If that happens, and it happens really easy, you will never get the nuts of the bolt again without having to cut the bolt of. However being a sailer you may allready know that. Super project and great videos, I love your perfectionism and high standards. Br. Tom
Tef Gel.
I feel your engine pain my friend. Unable to take it anymore I finally made the leap of faith and switched to an electric motor. No more smell, no more noise, no more diesel fuel, no more oil filters, no transmission, no more $80 O-rings and only a small fraction of the maintenance. The difference is unbelievable. And unfortunately that beautiful engine compartment you created won’t stay that way for long. My only regret is not doing it sooner.
My last comment did not post, so this might seam out of order. I was saying you can see if you can find a welding shop in your area that is able to fix your exhaust pipe so you won’t have to spend that much money on a new one. I know in the US there are welding shops that can fix it, since a lot of exhaust manifolds on cars and trucks are cast iron. Good luck and keep up the great work you are doing.
Hi Mads I would be suspect of that exhaust elbow. On the top ,or outside of the bend there seams to be an epoxy patch, rite at the place where turbulence would wash and Carole the medal away causing a week point or pinhole. I would definitely replace it with oem or a diy solution. DIY often turns out to be a better solution.
Great watching your progression thru this refit. It's going to be beautiful and solid when it's all complete.
Cheers
Pushing Max Spiffy on the engine compartment Mads. Never seen one so nice.
Soak the heat exchanger core in vinegar overnight to dissolve any build up inside. Great video. Thanks
Hi Mess I have been following your UA-cam channel for a few years and would love to own an Albin Ballad one day. I am an Aircraft Engineer and was interested in the Exhaust Pipe from the Heat Exchanger problems you have. The O ring seals that you have bought you could of sourced from else where they are very expensive and the Exhaust hole you could get it welded and then low pressure test it by blanking the ends and having one adapted with a bicycle wheel valve and pump it up with a bicycle hand pump to see if it is still leaking. I really enjoy the whole UA-cam adventure and watch each episode Craig
Gawd, I wish my engine was sitting outside the engine compartment when I had to clean the heat exchanger! BTW, a slightly acidic solution cleans the tubes nicely. When I bought the boat, mine were 90% plugged. A little vinegar worked amazing!
Mads, seal the edges of the sound insulation with aluminum tape. Dont leave any exposed foam, as it will absorb dieseĺ fumes etc, and over time break down
That Engine Room reminds me of Star Wars. 🤣 And it will definately win in a beautycontest of Engine Rooms. 🏆
I wouldn't care if the video was in black and white, I just love all of them. Great job.
Removable panel between engine and fuel tank = Good idea.
As for the engine bay, you're into Spinal Tap territory!
Your Spiffy-ness meter just went up to 11!
That compartment is lookin great. Good job. take that elbow to a machinist and get them to build you a better version than what you have now. Peace and be safe out there.
Hi Mads, have you thought of having someone make you a set of metal end caps for the heat exchanger? I think those plastic caps are causing the leak. I would clean off the corrosion where is was leaking beneath the aft end of the heat exchanger with a wire bush and paint. With a fresh surface, you will be able to watch it to see if the leak/corrosion comes back. Regards, Ken.
Came here after scratching my head about the o-rings in the diagram. As well about them being, now $25 each! Are you freaking kidding me? And I have two engines to do
athena is looking nice. have been watching since last spring and it looks like alot of progress has been made on her. well done and can't wait to see her in the water again.
Hi Mads, great video as usual. I don’t normally comment, but on your tank mounts I’m concerned that you are pulling outwards on the tank tabs and stressing the tank corner unnecessarily - and risking a fatigue crack. A better approach would be to use a sleeve on the bolt which will take the clamp load and a pair of mount rubbers between the sleeve and the tank to hold the tank in position without unduly stressing it. If this method is not clear I can send you a sketch..
Great job on the engine compartment. Don't forget to put a light over the fuel tank also. Rather then a dimmer, you might want separate switches for the lights (port and stbd) and then you can have one, the other or both. Get your solid gold o-ring sizes and go to the local car part or hardware store and buy spares. The suggestion to paint parts different color based on what year it was worked on is a really good idea. Also, when they were going to sell the boat they probably painted all the hoses, so it isn't an alarm bell. But never paint a flexible hose. Painting it will hide possible problems. around the access to the compartment just take strips of the left over material and tape it on. If you are worried about it being bumped out, use the thinner material.
Mads--just a couple of $$$-saving points:
1. Get an 'O'-ring kit (NAPA or other), and you'll have all the o-rings (all sizes) you'll ever need for the rest of your life, for just a few bucks, presupposing you have a good tube of super-glue. I've tested mine to 3,000 psi for over 30 years without a failure.
2. On 'Sailing Emerald Steel', Jules shows how to make an exhaust elbow for a small fraction of the new one you bought. I think total cost for the parts was less than $50--perhaps as little as $30.
Best of luck,,,
Which video on Emerald Steel?
John Rice , I would like to know which video as well , thanks
"Damn. That looks spiffy as heck" ... the highest compliment possible.
After you get you a new elbow..... Take the old one and get it grazed or welded in the weak area(s) and keep it for an emergency replacement in case of breakdown in some remote place. Maybe it can be repaired and then ceramic coated(no idea if it can be done or if it would work) Just a thought to save some money later on.peace and fair winds buddy.
Brazed or welded....dang auto-correct.
Love the tanning bed! 🐬
Just a suggestion. I recommend when you replace fix parts which require removal to fix, you paint the new parts a different color based on the year replace/repaired (e.g. this year red, next year yellow, the year after blue etc). After a few years you will instantly recognize the amount of work you've performed on the engine and also know in advance what really needs the maintenance. It is a sure fire way to being able to predict future failures and it does make an interesting topic of discussion when giving a tour or sundowners... Just sayin it would be very 'Spiffy'!
p.s. I've done this for the last 30 years on all the engines I've owned (including aircraft engines) and it really is amazing what you can start predicting after a few years. ;)
Md Wills Nice Idea!!
I have no experience with engine repair at all, but I was thinking that as he was doing his heat exchanger repair. Just clean and repaint whatever you just serviced or replaced, yes your engine would look patchwork but you'd have a good picture of what means maintain to replace the most.
Engine room needs a log book for maintenance, checklists and time schedule for replacements and cleaning. The big boat engine rooms do it, but yachts should too. Now I have given you 3 cents for what it's worth.
I've never thought about your suggestion, but that's a perfect idea! Your engine may look like the Partridge Family bus, but it'll make maintenance easier. Good job!
I am ecstatic that you took my advice of using removable divider in the engine compartment.
Loving the tanning bed.
that's awesome ! ....gotta love an engine compartment that looks like an operating theatre 😁
Great video Mads. Penta roughly translates to "5 or more time price". Add marine and there you have it.
I agree with what many have said. Lubricate O rings, torque cover, spec replacements, and tape exposed wires and edge of insulation.
Very good work! I can officially inform you that I have watched all 107 videos! And I look forward to further work from you! big thumbs up!
Use a roller that you can lean on to help add more pressure to your blocks of foam. I use it for weatherstripping also. Anyway, looks great.
Your engine is only using single Jubilee clips / hose clamps. I believe using dual clamps each is good practice. Thanks for the videos.
Great progress! Tanning booth, here we come!
Exhaust elbow. Maybe a heliarc weld with a 309 or 316 stainless cover which will delay further corrosion and add long life on the part. Of course multi passes required but an easy solution . After many years in the business maybe a smart less expensive repair.
The "tanning bed"... Nice!
Use the alu tape to cover up the black edges of sound proofing
Great video! Very helpful, I'm about to rip into our 2 D2-40's, I appreciate you putting this together! Well done.
I was happy with the light situation in my engine compartment, thanks for yet another item on my to do list!
Hey mads, thanks for the stickers! When ya do engine work it will pay off if you use anti seize on all your fasteners and use a torque wrench when you can to get an idea of proper torque if your not used to it. Leaks love improper torque.
Also... a normal dimmer may not work with the LEDs. Bias needs a specific voltage and most leds are on or off. Ya may need a PWM, i posted about it last week.
Mas, I see when you removed the hose on the exhaust hose that someone painted over it. Although it's nice to have what looks like a nice new engine to show off to all your friends, I'd rather know just what's going on. I would assume that someone has painted your engine to hide age or issues. I would check it out very very carefully. Volvo parts aren't always the easiest to get in some corners of the world I hear. I took my heat exchanger to a radiator shop where they boiled it out for me in a chemical bath for 5 dollars. It came out like brand new!! NICE!
I've occasioned the high cost of OEM parts before and discovered that "O" rings are pretty standard in the industry. Those parts would have probably cost you less than $2 for all four had you bought them from an industrial gasket supplier. The last time I needed one the sales agent just gave it to me and told me to look him up when I had a larger order. For proper size you only need bring the housing with you to the gasket supplier.
That what I thought. The exchange unit itself is disgustingly priced. Walde sailing had to get one . $3000.... It's a bloody tea strainer
Thou shalt not keep an engine coming from Volvo Marine if there's a good reason to get rid of it (like a heat exchanger failure ...)
I totally agree these companies are so good at making us believe you must only buy their replacement parts,and as they also know many people would not know where else to go or how to find parts, they charge any price they want, know most will say omg but pay, service and re-furb kits can be the same!!! a total rip off, they come with a few washers and o rings and cost nearly as much as replacing the whole part!l
Indeed -- look in the yellow pages for "Seal Suppliers" or "Hydraulic Spares". Most bearing supply houses also sell O-rings. And bearing (eg ball, roller, needle, taper roller etc) are also generic standard and cost cents on the dollar when you buy them from industrial wholesalers. Don't go for cheap Chinese ones, though ... at least, not yet.
Hi If is cast iron you can use special rod to weld it. Any engineer shop who work with engine should be able to fix it for a fraction of the money, old cast iron manifold used to crack. When you change your o ring, always is good practice wet them with some washing liquid, in UK (fairy liquid). Some people use oil. But personally I prefer this. Good luck, everything is looking amazing.
Take the cast elbow to a competent welding shop. Drill out the hole to make sure it is not a stress crack. Have them braze it up and it should last a very long time. Never did cast brazing for a marine environment but there is no reason that it wont last. Consider vibration pads for the motor feet and the engine room will be silent but deadly...or spiffy!
Great work, as usual. Do yourself a favor and use high temp antisieze (copper base) on every threaded moment on that engine (can get it at an automotive supply). Future you will be thankful. Also anytime there are mineral or rust build up I use CLR, wonderful stuff. Would make that part you were washing, or any other look like new (environmentally safe, won't hurt your part). Have a beautiful week.
Mads, I didn't catch what else is holding the fuel tank in? The standard for seaworthiness, is whatever it takes to keep big heavy important things in their place when the boat rolls upside down. A seaworthy boat must be able to roll upside down, right itself, and remain functional afterwards. Two strong bolts are enough, but located off center will allow the tank to rotate.
Mads, find a Hydraulic Supply and make a list of any seals and parts you may need. Then go to a good helpful auto supply and get several pairs of o rings that you may need to store away for those sure to need future repairs and some rolls or sheets of gasket material to be able to make your own gaskets of any type. If you ever have to replace a motor, Yanmar!!! Oh ya, You're the Mad Man!!!
Stainless 316L is the preferred material for exhaust elbows. Also, more importantly, unless the water lift muffler is well below the engine, which is almost impossible on sailboats of this size, some kind of exhaust loop is needed before the water injection into the exhaust. Otherwise, in rough seas, salt water will slosh backward/forward and into the engine, eventually doing damage. Suggest you refer to Nigel Calder book for the details.
Mads, I have binge watched all of your Athena videos, and two things strike me: 1) your commitment to producing an excellent refit is commendable and truly impressive, and 2) I have been really disappointed with the build quality of the boat, especially the disastrous drainage issues you have found under the sole.
I can see how you fell in love with Warrior 38, because the boat really does have beautiful lines, but do you ever regretyour choice in light of the build quality issues you have uncovered?
Hi Mads!
Tef Gel is great to prevent corrosion between aluminium and stainless steel in wet environment.
I think you don't need it on your stainless steel tank, fastened with stainless steel bolts/nuts.
Spare Tef Gel for places like your rig (mast/boom) where it works a treat.
Keep up the good work!
wow Mads, that's one impressive engine compartment.
Good idea to use those plastic discs for securing isolation sheets, even the the glue feels gripping really well, sheets starts falling sooner or later (i have 11 years experiense of building
and maintaining ventilation units and
we used the same type material).
Seems the way you have mounted the engine lights, velcro would have been an optimal choice then you have option of easily moving around a bit if ever needed. Two sided sticky tape would be another avenue, either way would be secure and keep from having to puncture the integrity of insulation sheeting. Just my though from a viewer standpoint, regardless nice job mate. I so appreciate the quality and extra effort you apply throughout! Good day sir
Joe, Velcro glued on with contact cement or two sided sticky tape won't hold up in that environment. I installed similar lights in my cabins in the Florida heat.
They fell off in about a month. The temp in his engine bay will be much higher.
@@gking5522 Touché, I agree with your reply. Let me say first that my comment was in no way meant to insult or imply Mads was doing anything wrong as said I appreciate his desire to over-do so many applications. I believe that in itself is what surprised me in just screwing into the insulation mat. My first thought was it seemed substandard based on his general ways of going about doing things. After commenting, I further realized that the foil backing on the insulation may in fact not be strong enough to hold sticky tape over time regardless just due to gravity and bouncing around at sea. I personally wouldve epoxied thin layer of wood (1/4") between mat and underside of cockpit floor so as to have something to attach screws into and cut small hole under light to run and hide wire wire. But again, what he is not doing is not wrong and certainly his to do with as he pleases. I'm certain he has a plan and will be very nice once completed. Like u, I live along the gulf coast and very much agree in hindsight with the heat factor. Thank you for responding and clearing up my hasty suggestion. That said, I definitely like the amount of light he has installed. Fair winds my friend ...
Company called Osco makes replacement exhaust manifolds for marine applications.
Before installing the tank, did you shorten those two large drain hoses? The originals were shorter. The current ones hang down with a low point in them that will hold water & potentially freeze & crack. The original hoses were shorter without that low point.
The engine bay is looking GREAT btw!!!
Absolutely first rate work! Brilliant...
Hello. Nice work. Just so you know the engine is in fact not a volvo engine it's a Perkins 400 series/CAT. What makes it volvo is the marine parts. The heat exchanger/pump etc. If you need any parts for the engine itself try Perkins or CAT as they will possibly be cheaper. looks like a 404/22 to me.
Ian C carefull Volvo does manufacture there own enigines though they make look almost the same, do the research d2 is a Volvo engine if I am not mistaken
@@tylerharris3907 . Hi. The Volvo Penta D'series below 2.2 litre is a Perkins/CAT engine. They add the marine parts and paint it green. The core engine is the same.originally a Japanese design from ISM JV with Perkins. I know this becasue I am working on the Perkins 400 series engine Stage 5 and I see them going down the production line . Good engines . Robust and simple.
engine compartment is looking up Mads , nice work you may need a night job for motor parts …
I hope that you measured those O-rings made out of unobtainium so when you need a spare set you can just go to a place that sells hydraulic parts and buy another 4 of them for a couple of dollars. Also I hope you used some silicone grease (also called plumbers grease) on them when you put everything back together.
Hello! Great work again! one suggestion though: the frames around the engine compartment windows would be really useful to cover. You can do it separately - than put aluminium tape to cover the surface unevenness between the frame insulation and the wall insulation surface.
Great video, learned so many things. Thank you. And I agree the price of the o-rings is outrageous.
For the exhaust elbow consider the por15 engine enamel. Amazing stuff!
I have to chuckle, because often times I have that "sneaky suspicion" that I've ordered the wrong parts too. Concerning Volvo engines, cruising friends always advised me to steer clear of them simply because of the expense for repairs and replacement parts compared to other options. For my budget anyway. Not bad engines, just wicked expensive.
Mads, I say this with the authority of someone who has never mounted an LED lamp to sound insulation.
With the spirit of hindsight, I would have suggested to poke a hole in the insulation, and pass the wires behind the insulation to have it look neater. You can still use the aluminum tape to cover up the wires, though.
Nice tanning room!
I would recommend using the thinner foam to cut pieces that can go ontop of the trim of the access hatches
great episode Mads. The engine compartment is truly spiftacular :) Cheers from PEI Canada, Bryan
Find your calipers and see the sizes of those O rings. Order some spares from stock sizes. Probably just a few dollars not 20 Euro each. That elbow doesn't look that far gone. A shop should be able o tig braze it no problem. Even if you have a new one a spare isn't a bad idea.
True, but ultimately, ditching the shi**y Volvo tick priced boutique shop item is the best solution. An oversized (in terms of thickness) replacement made from random and custom made parts would result in a more cost effective solution down the road.
The engine itself isn't even worth the effort, it appears to be another engine, Perkins, that's been sprinkled with Volvo parts.
Hi Mads... Great vid as usual... I missed the danish cursing on the o-rings... Its hilarious... About the frame on the side windows on the engine compartment, try overlaping two thin stripes of the thinner isolation... Might just work! Keep up with the good work!!!
Love the ER, clean and bright!!!!
I would cover the exposed, foam core edge of the soundproofing with the foil tape. I believe it would give a cleaner look.
If you go with a threaded connection, you can also get an aluminum elbow from westerbeke or universal.
Damn Spiffy Engine Bay! Congrats!
Hi! I recently came across your channel and have been binge watching. Loving what you are going! Spiffy! :) I know this is a year or more to late to be of any use, but My touch of OCD would have made me use the thinner insulation on the access hole frames and then use the metal tape to seal from foam to the frame. I will wait until I see what you have done. on to the next video..
barnacle buster! it takes of care all the "white crumply stuff" inside heat exchanger
Hi Mads: I recommend buying a new elbow from OEM manufacturer and a spare as well. It's hard to replace parts in far away ports. Also, put buttons on insulation all over as the adhesive will fail eventually. Cheers.
Great job with the engine compatment! 'got a VolvoPenta MD2040 and the exhaust elbow was clogged at the seawater inlet (which caused a seawater overpressure and a leak to the primary coolant). From the outside it looked like yours (partly rusted). I redrilled the seawater inlet, cleaned and repainted the thing and it works fine. Maybe get a quote for a spiffy rebuilt from duplex steel (1.4462) or alloy 625 (which should last forever). You can get EPDM O-rings from the shelf in any size for cents...
For aftermarket try OSCO marine and Barr.
you need to put led Glow Lights in the Engine compartment for Effect at least 4 colors
At 11:11 you talk about making the exhaust elbow out of stainless. One of the reasons the elbow is made out of lower class material is that it needs to be sacrificial, the cylinder head part is an alloy , stainless would eat away your engine head... hence stick to original parts...unless you want to sacrifice your wallet ;)
You could make the divider for engine compartment out of plexi-glass so you could still see your beautiful diesel tank. ;)
Hi. Great work again geez. Just a thought on the divider for the engine bay, can I suggest you make a template of the area before you get the engine in. I agree with your original idea, but you may find that having a template might make the divider fit better once you work out how you can install it with the engine in place. I just think you'll struggle to get decent dimensions for the divider with the engine in place. Any who "as you would say", your doing an amazing job so keep doing what your doing. On another note, your missus is doing well also. I received my stickers with a thank you note very promptly after ordering them. See you! Oh dear, I seem to be turning into you.
I dare say before doing any amount of offshore sailing a good set off mechanics tools would be a must.
Yes. Compared with all the exotic woodworking and finishing gadgets, a real set of tools is a small expense. I keep hearing on all the sailing channels how much work is required to keep things operational, and then see they often don't have much more than a screwdriver and crescent wrench to work with.
Projects I cringe when I see the tool boxes kept aboard some boats. Make the investment.
This video may provide some inspiration for you. I'd probably go for the stainless option if it's the same price as the cast iron Volvo part.
Great video Mads once again love the new sun tan box 😂😂😂
I can fab up a new exhaust elbow for that engine in solid 316 stainless. Sadly, it'll cost ~$400 for one. Luckily, due to material costs and sizes, you get at least one free one at that price - maybe two free ones depending on the size of that flange. The best bet, both money-wise and convenience-wise would still be to cut off the flange and have it threaded to accept cheap Schedule 80 thick wall pipe from the home store.
Have the pin holes in the exhaust elbow brazed up, then get the inside of the pipe coated with something like ceramic.
That is a great looking engine compartment. With all that light reflecting foil working on the engine should be sweet. I have a Volvo Penta "The Red Engine" (Gasoline). Anytime I need parts for it, I try to find the automotive application that will work for me. Marine parts are 4 or 5 times more expensive. I'm not sure if you have that ability, when looking for parts for yours.