Hi Nick. Great series. I swore that I'd never build another kayak, but you are rapidly changing my mind. S&G looks like a much less labor-intensive process than strip building. I particularly like that you show the potential issues and the mindset you should adopt when dealing with them. Thanks.
I notice that you don’t worry about filling the puzzle joint completely with epoxy. Does the epoxy naturally fill the joint when fiberglassing? (Wish I’d known to do this on a prior boat!)
On the bottom panels of the hull I went with simpler puzzle shapes. I thought these puzzles looked cool, so I went with the cool factor over the better/easier/more practical.
Lots of good tips in this episode and too many cliches too (school of hard knocks). In the end as you said, this is the experience you gain to rise from a beginner to novice and eventually an expert then to master craftsman. So happy you are doing this series to educate us viewers. Thanks for sharing.
I see you are using the cigar type foam rollers. Do you recommend a source or type of these. I also notice you didn't squeegee. Have you used these rollers for Wet out ? Another great educational video !
Is there an option for scarfs rather than puzzles? I'm not sure which is harder to align. Ideally I'd scarf it before cutting out the panels, but you didn't have to cut out the panels.
The kit comes with pre-cut puzzle joints, but the plans suggest cutting scarfs. You would pre-scarf together the long panels needed, then cut out the full-length parts.
Hi Nick. Great series. I swore that I'd never build another kayak, but you are rapidly changing my mind. S&G looks like a much less labor-intensive process than strip building. I particularly like that you show the potential issues and the mindset you should adopt when dealing with them. Thanks.
I figure a S&G is less than half the labor of a stripper.
Showing how to deal with issues is always helpful to the novice
Makes you want to align and check before gluing…
A quick check can save a lot of effort
I notice that you don’t worry about filling the puzzle joint completely with epoxy. Does the epoxy naturally fill the joint when fiberglassing? (Wish I’d known to do this on a prior boat!)
Yes, epoxy will soak into the puzzle joint and make it very strong
Hi! What do you think about makin a simpler shape puzzle joints, e.g. T-shaped. Simpler to cut , simpler to fit
On the bottom panels of the hull I went with simpler puzzle shapes. I thought these puzzles looked cool, so I went with the cool factor over the better/easier/more practical.
Lots of good tips in this episode and too many cliches too (school of hard knocks). In the end as you said, this is the experience you gain to rise from a beginner to novice and eventually an expert then to master craftsman. So happy you are doing this series to educate us viewers. Thanks for sharing.
I never really thought of doing this but….😊
I see you are using the cigar type foam rollers. Do you recommend a source or type of these. I also notice you didn't squeegee. Have you used these rollers for Wet out ? Another great educational video !
I just get them at the big box store. I am not squeegeeing this because I am not trying to make a smooth surface.
Seems like that radial type puzzle joint is ripe for errors? Might be good opportunity to improve the kit for newbies...
Really great to see the approach for correcting errors though. I had no idea there was a debonder! 😅
I agree it is not the most foolproof shape for a puzzle joint. Hopefully, this video will help folks avoid the error.
Is there an option for scarfs rather than puzzles? I'm not sure which is harder to align. Ideally I'd scarf it before cutting out the panels, but you didn't have to cut out the panels.
The kit comes with pre-cut puzzle joints, but the plans suggest cutting scarfs. You would pre-scarf together the long panels needed, then cut out the full-length parts.