This channel is great for DIY inspiration. If you drink water from the cold tap it may have a plastic taste due to all the plastic plumbing, so an inline activated carbon filter could be an idea. My taste buds are sensitive to this kind of thing :) My friend's apartment building uses a plastic water tank and it does taint the taste of the water compared to my home that has direct-feed metal pipes. Adding ice cubes to the glass nulls the taste buds in the former case.
Loving watching your videos Teal. Thank you so much to you and your family for giving us a window into your adventure. I’ve had an idea (and please forgive me if you’re way ahead of me here), if you used a GoPro hero 4 or later, I think you could connect it to your mobile so that not only would you be able to film the other side of a bulkhead, but you could see (on your phone) what was going on the other side [of a thing] without having to ask Emma or Linh. Don’t misunderstand me, I love the way you all work together, but it might - sometimes - be helpful to have an extra pair of eyes, without having an extra pair of people!
Hi Teal ! Since your first video, I saw a lot of hatches topside. When you made your visit to the underside of the boat, I did not see an escape hatch there. I hope there is at least ONE in your plans when you will get the boat out of the water.
Great work again! Just had to comment on the plastic fittings which seal by the rubber/neoprene gasket only - the use of silicone spray lubricant works wonders for getting a good seal and preventing distortion of the gasket. I get you intention with the ptfe to act as a thread lock though, particularly where hot water is involved - it does stretch the plastic caps and can cause cracking if too much is applied-be careful!. Use silicone spray lubricant on all plastics (and metals) it's completely inert, adds a waterproof layer and makes life easy - it's cheap too, and "clean". Most boats are isolated on the internal and shore supply so leakage to ground should not be a problem - we're hammered by regs here with 200/240v supplies although basins have very few restrictions. RCDs abound where earthing arrangements permit - does not apply to "plastic" boats though! A thorny subject as you rightly pointed out. Comments below about through hull fittings and sealing - many boats have balsa cores - a nightmare if not looked after carefully. In this instance sealing is advisable with particular attention to screw fixings through one of the skims. Certain older (sailing) boats have teak decking screwed into a balsa cored substrate. I've heard of many failures where decks get spongy due to rotten balsa arising from water penetration down the screw threads. Your foam core in s god send in this respect. Well, done again, a pleasure to watch.
This is a big reason I enjoy UA-cam so much. It is a great platform for people to share their knowledge on an endless array of subjects. Thanks for the insight and thanks for watching!
Yet another great video =D Half of me really wants you to finish the boat and enjoy the fruits of your labour . . . but the other half of me doesn't want you to stop making these really well made, entertaining and educational DIY videos. Absolutely brilliant UA-cam channel. I hope you enjoy making them as much as we do watching them. Great work Teal.
Really enjoyed the video, it’s always good to see the progress of your home on the sea. It’s great to see everyone pitch in and help, even Compass threw in a bark to let you know he saw the light thru the hull.
Not even close! Jesse is one scary pretender. He sounds great to clueless folks but if he were off the hard he would have sunk many times, or burnt, or exploded.
Can’t get enough Father/Daughter projects. It makes them both better for an awesome new world dynamic. Great fun to watch and always interesting. Thx guys.
What a perfectionist. I mean that in a good way. You know, when I did the head and intake on the engine for the Jag you see in my avatar, I took all the nuts up to the proper torque value and the added whatever extra twist was necessary to have the flats on all the nuts line up longitudinally with the engine. It's a double overhead cam inline six with a shitload of chrome acorn nuts for the cam covers and head bolts. Did the same on the intake and exhaust. A subtle touch and maybe overkill but it pleased me. Take a look at an image of a 4.2 liter Jaguar engine and imagine all those nuts lining up.
Onboard Lifestyle We (the viewers) can’t wait either!!! SV basik will be showtime ready when you permanently slip the dock lines! Your refit is legendary! Thank-you for sharing.
Another excellent job and interesting video thanks. I always had cork bungs an assortment of for my various through Hull fittings if you ever get a leak in one of them for any reason or you lose it some how whatever , you can put the bung In.
The work is top notch and on par with the best built boats in the world. My only concern in this though is the sink drains will have standing water in them due to that loop at the bottom. Might get a bit smelly if left for any time. I had the same issue on mine due to the sinks hose fitting being too low. I only have 2 sinks, one for galley & one for heads. They both drain forward to a whale gulper 220 pump. These can pump water & air as well as debris so it clears the lines of every drop everytime.
Hey, you probably already know, I spotted your boat on the Netflix show, "Stay Here" S1E1. I noticed they shopped at your local marine store too. Crazy!
Very flexible setup with the manifold. Never seen that on a boat - not even my house has that :) Always freaks me out when a drill has to go through a hull - even above the waterline :)
I get too comfortable drilling into the hull sometimes....I am glad that I slowed down and triple checked my measurement on this project because my first calculation was just inches above the waterline.
While I don't disagree that silicone is fine for onboard plumbing uses I still look for 'the right kind', something that has impressive elongation similar to DOW 795. What are you using Teal? I don't think 795 comes in clear, so you must have a particular brand you like. I'd still use butyl tape on the outboard end of the thru-hull, but thats only because its less likely to interfere with future paint touch ups than silicone residue.
Just curious, did you fill the cutout with epoxy before fitting the thru hull?? Leaving the core exposed to water seems risky when it is so easy to put a bit of filler in before installing the thru hull.
Thanks for the comment Bruce, I have pulled 10 twenty-five year old thru hull fittings off and not one had an epoxy barrier and all the holes looked like the day they were drilled (3 of them had even failed with water sitting in the core). The beauty of NidaCore is that each individual cell is sealed so even if an exposed edge is underwater the moisture will not migrate past the first cell. I agree that filling would be nice but not necessary. NIDA-CORE STRUCTURAL HONEYCOMB PANEL - The Nida-Core honeycombs are cellular structures with an 8 mm mesh made of polypropylene, which are used to form the core of structural sandwich panels. Their surface coating (non-woven polyester) can be laminated or glued to practically any type of material, for applications in many domains: construction, transport, yachting, industrial equipment, sports, recreation, etc. Specially made for contact and spray lamination. The polyester non-woven material present on the Nida-Core has a surface that is perfectly suited to impregnation with thermosetting resins (polyester, epoxy, etc.) The heat sealing method used to stick this non-woven material to the cellular structure provides a perfect bond. Finally, the plastic film placed under the non-woven material seals the cells and reduces resin consumption.
@@OnboardLifestyle Just going to play devil's advocate here: so by this logic, there was no reason to epoxy the holes for the faucets, ones that never will be in contact with water, it doesn't sound right, somehow. Other than that, great job Teal, you are a pleasure to watch work, your meticulousness and precision blow my mind every time, another job well done, you're getting closer to the big day. Cheers!
That has been bugging me for a long time to. It is true that NidaCore cells should be sealed from each other but I would not bet my life onit. There are different types of Nida Core. The one that "should" be sealed is made of core itself, thin film bonded to open sides (top, bottom) of the hexagonal cells to provide the sealing. But the main purpose is to seal against resin filling the void of cells. A layer of glass fibers is adhered over this film to ensure bond with laminate.Somebody once tested NidaCore against water ingress and cells filled with water. But once again, not all NidaCore is the same. While PP is resistant against rot it is not advisable to have water in core. Weight, frost, hydraulic effects and such come to mind. Sealing the through hulls takes just a bit of effort and epoxy for the piece of mind. One more thing… many episodes ago Mr. O. Lifestyle once comented how mesmerized he was at the sight of sun rays reflecting of the water surface through translucent hull. NidaCore is not UV resistant. Actually, it is quite sensitive. Docs for NidaCore do mention the need to cover the laminate with thick enough layer of paint. Glass fibre and resin do not offer enough protection.
@@Thomas..Anderson You make solid points and I am no expert by any means. I am just speaking from my own experience with this substrate. Our boat is over 25 years old and everytime I cut a hole in the original core I inspect it thoroughly. Over the past 8 years I have easily produced 50 core samples from various parts of our boat with no signs of degradation. To learn more about our hull material I placed a piece of core sample underwater(with a weight) 7 years ago and I checked it periodically over the years to see the effect. Once I wipe the lake slime off it looks a bit discolored from algae but in solid condition and will float at the same rate it did originally. Not scientific, but enough to satisfy my own curiosities. The mesmerizing light that telegraphs though the hull was on the underside of the boat on the bridgedeck which has never seen the direct sunlight. I do admit that in that area of the boat the paint is too thin but we will be addressing that issue this next spring when we haul her out. Thanks for the conversation.
Your work is always of superior quality. I do not comment as any form of critic. I ask to learn. Why a large outboard to inboard loop instead of a smaller vertically elongated corkscrew secured to the forward bulkhead and back down to the through hole? Such a corkscrew might offer more adjustment capabilities both below the sink and above the through hole. Did Emma make any of her bracelets?
Jack, the beauty of working on your own boat is that you can modify or tweek anything that does not work perfectly. So far the drains are working as designed and I will not change them until I have a bit more history with them. With that said, I am going to file your idea and revisit it if the drains fail me in any way. BTW, Emma loves her bracelets and are mostly gifts from her friends.
Another great video! It seems like every hole or raw edge of the nidacore has been treated with epoxy. I'M curious as to your decision to not treat the through hulls?
Thanks for the comment jimffpm, I have pulled 10 twenty-five year old thru hull fittings off and not one had an epoxy barrier and all the holes looked like the day they were drilled (3 of them had even failed with water sitting in the core). The beauty of NidaCore is that each individual cell is sealed so even if an exposed edge is underwater the moisture will not migrate past the first cell. I agree that filling would be nice but not necessary. NIDA-CORE STRUCTURAL HONEYCOMB PANEL - The Nida-Core honeycombs are cellular structures with an 8 mm mesh made of polypropylene, which are used to form the core of structural sandwich panels. Their surface coating (non-woven polyester) can be laminated or glued to practically any type of material, for applications in many domains: construction, transport, yachting, industrial equipment, sports, recreation, etc. Specially made for contact and spray lamination. The polyester non-woven material present on the Nida-Core has a surface that is perfectly suited to impregnation with thermosetting resins (polyester, epoxy, etc.) The heat sealing method used to stick this non-woven material to the cellular structure provides a perfect bond. Finally, the plastic film placed under the non-woven material seals the cells and reduces resin consumption
I love how involved Emma is in all your projects. Watching her reminds me of following my dad around in his woodshop when I was her age. The confidence I have from my DIY skills is the greatest gift my father has given me. (Although paying for college was nice, too.) I don't know if you've seen the dust shrouds that Bosch has come out with, but I am in love with mine. (www.amazon.com/dp/B00JNA193K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_rffJBbMDJRWC0) We bought a money pit house built in 1945. It has plaster walls, lead paint, and asbestos siding. This shroud lets me cut into the wall with my oscillating saw and hawg out electrical box openings with a 4 inch hole saw *while not being covered by a cloud of extra fine, extra poisonous dust.* I don't know how badly fiberglass dust kicks up, but it might be a nice accessory for your vacuum.
I know better than to ask the man that is so meticulous and detail oriented as you but when you were outside measuring the waterline to the thru hulls, did you allow for the extra weight the boat will take on with supplies and fuel, etc.? And thank you for clearing up the GFI sink outlets for me. I had concerns.
@@OnboardLifestyle As the waves crash through underneath I'm pretty sure the outlets will sometimes be under water. Shouldn't be a problem on a cat though. On a monohull the leaning of the boat can sometimes backfill the galley with seawater. As such they normally have seacocks on all skin fittings.
Hi there again does the waste go straight into the lake? I always thought boats had holding tanks which was pumped out periodically. Enjoying all the videos and looking forward to seeing a tup go on the rear seating area. Best wishes from the uk
Black water has to be pumped out from the holding tank by pump-out service in the marina. One of their earlier videos shows that process. I believe most marinas allow grey water to go over the side.
Parts of northern europe are now not allowing grey water over the side either now. All has to be held & pumped. Very few boats have grey water tanks fitted though.
@@englishrose1122 The unfortunate reality is the whole worlds boats pollution is miniscule compared to what is actually being pumped into the sea. Man is a disgusting & dirty creature!
Thanks for these videos. I'm more confident now I can take on the patch jobs. BTW are the scuppers in the cockpit large enough to handle a rogue wave from astern?
Did you install a water pressure regulation valve on the dock? too much town pressure can blow your pipes of the fittings, filling the boat with water.
I totally agree with you Frank. I have measured the water pressure from the dock and it has ranged from 25 to 75 PSI. That's why I installed the Shurflo # 183-029-18 bulkhead mount 65 PSI regulator.
Good eye John! I have a dedicated lines to each fixture onboard with the exception of the master head sinks. I wish my manifold had one more port because I was forced to "T" the water supply under one of the sinks (which I was desperately trying to avoid). The last port will be dedicated to the master head shower.
Onboard Lifestyle Thank you, that was my question also, just wanted to see if anyone else had asked that first. Just started watching your channel and I love everything you are doing.
Beautiful. But why a countertop? That's just added weight, thickness and complexity? Couldn't you have applied your countertop finish to the existing structure? Add a lip if you want it to look like it's a slab of something?
Yes you are correct , it would be lighter, but not by much (2.6 lbs). I built it unattached for the ease of applying the granite topcoat. It would be very difficult to create a crisp clean edge of the countertop topcoat if it was blended into the surrounding walls.
I notice you used silicone to seal the through holes rather than butyl tape, is this just a personal preference or does silicone do a better job for longer sealing the join? Once again a very informative video, so keep them coming. A belated Happy Halloween from Australia!!!
Talking sealants on UA-cam is like talking politics or religion. I did use silicone in this case because it is above the waterline and is UV shaded by the bridgedeck. Nothing against butyl tape, I just don't use it often.
The faux wheatgrass is a bit tough to chew and is only used for a privacy shade while in the marina. We have experimented with growing herbs onboard and will try to become better horticulturists as we travel.
To bad you couldn't insulate the hot water lines better. Boat, RV, or home it really improves the efficiency of any hot water system and the delivery of the warmer hot water to it's end point. Given the space constraints I'm not sure there's room.
@@OnboardLifestyle Cold water lines don't really need insulation unless there's freeze threat. How hot do your really need it to be at a sink? Not very really. However, finding or keeping your eyes open for some way to insulate your shower hot water line might just be enough. Something for your like to do list perhaps? If you find something suitable. It certainly would make cleaning up after a strenuous day much nicer.
You are completely correct. After installing the fittings I thought that in heavy seas we may get water forced backwards into the sinks so I will be adding seacocks in the near future.
That's exactly what I was thinking the whole time.. Some rough seas could lead to back up. Was searching comments for someone else to say it first.. lol.
As it's a cat that doesn't lean you might be OK. How high above the waterline are the tops of the sinks? Backfilling the hose isn't an issue as the flushing action would help clean them.
I try to avoid elbows on drains because they tend to be a clogging point and, yes, water stays in the loop just like a P-trap. Thanks for watching Peter!
Teal. Master of all boat projects . F . A. B. U. L. O. U. S. Workmanship. ‼️‼️‼️‼️ There is no doubt your bride will be pleased.
Tanks Richard, Linh is very happy that her master head is finally taking shape!
This channel is great for DIY inspiration. If you drink water from the cold tap it may have a plastic taste due to all the plastic plumbing, so an inline activated carbon filter could be an idea. My taste buds are sensitive to this kind of thing :) My friend's apartment building uses a plastic water tank and it does taint the taste of the water compared to my home that has direct-feed metal pipes. Adding ice cubes to the glass nulls the taste buds in the former case.
Loving watching your videos Teal. Thank you so much to you and your family for giving us a window into your adventure. I’ve had an idea (and please forgive me if you’re way ahead of me here), if you used a GoPro hero 4 or later, I think you could connect it to your mobile so that not only would you be able to film the other side of a bulkhead, but you could see (on your phone) what was going on the other side [of a thing] without having to ask Emma or Linh. Don’t misunderstand me, I love the way you all work together, but it might - sometimes - be helpful to have an extra pair of eyes, without having an extra pair of people!
Hi Teal ! Since your first video, I saw a lot of hatches topside. When you made your visit to the underside of the boat, I did not see an escape hatch there. I hope there is at least ONE in your plans when you will get the boat out of the water.
Great work again!
Just had to comment on the plastic fittings which seal by the rubber/neoprene gasket only - the use of silicone spray lubricant works wonders for getting a good seal and preventing distortion of the gasket. I get you intention with the ptfe to act as a thread lock though, particularly where hot water is involved - it does stretch the plastic caps and can cause cracking if too much is applied-be careful!. Use silicone spray lubricant on all plastics (and metals) it's completely inert, adds a waterproof layer and makes life easy - it's cheap too, and "clean".
Most boats are isolated on the internal and shore supply so leakage to ground should not be a problem - we're hammered by regs here with 200/240v supplies although basins have very few restrictions. RCDs abound where earthing arrangements permit - does not apply to "plastic" boats though! A thorny subject as you rightly pointed out.
Comments below about through hull fittings and sealing - many boats have balsa cores - a nightmare if not looked after carefully. In this instance sealing is advisable with particular attention to screw fixings through one of the skims. Certain older (sailing) boats have teak decking screwed into a balsa cored substrate. I've heard of many failures where decks get spongy due to rotten balsa arising from water penetration down the screw threads. Your foam core in s god send in this respect.
Well, done again, a pleasure to watch.
This is a big reason I enjoy UA-cam so much. It is a great platform for people to share their knowledge on an endless array of subjects. Thanks for the insight and thanks for watching!
Let's check this bead.. Perfect.. My wife looks at me and says, yep perfect just like mine. I look at her and say, stop showing off.
Quality installation, as usual !!!👌
34 minutes of plumbing and no plumbers crack visible. Another great job Teal.
Too funny...LMAO!
Always nice to have the cutest helper.
Emma is the best!
Yet another great video =D
Half of me really wants you to finish the boat and enjoy the fruits of your labour . . . but the other half of me doesn't want you to stop making these really well made, entertaining and educational DIY videos. Absolutely brilliant UA-cam channel. I hope you enjoy making them as much as we do watching them.
Great work Teal.
Thanks Dennis! If you keep watching our videos then we will keep making them, besides, we are having too much fun to stop.
Really enjoyed the video, it’s always good to see the progress of your home on the sea. It’s great to see everyone pitch in and help, even Compass threw in a bark to let you know he saw the light thru the hull.
This channel is the ASMR version of Pure Living for Life for boat people with neurotic perfectionism. :)
Love you all!
Not even close! Jesse is one scary pretender. He sounds great to clueless folks but if he were off the hard he would have sunk many times, or burnt, or exploded.
Great job Emma & Teal - great teamwork and Emma I love your armbands..(can never have too many :-))
If it were up to her she would have full sleeves of bands. :p
Love watching other people work. Great Job/Joy!
Can't wait to see you all off dock and sailing.
Us either!
Can’t get enough Father/Daughter projects. It makes them both better for an awesome new world dynamic. Great fun to watch and always interesting. Thx guys.
This is the girls project...they just let me work on it!
Your methodological dedication is admirable. What wonderful work. Great little helper too.
Thanks Wynn...Emma is always an eager assistant.
The seasons may change but somethings don’t.......’off to the marine store’ lol
Love the workmanship, and the editing. Skipping a lot of the details that everyone knows is there, allowing us to see so much in one vid. :}
Thanks for noticing Charley. It takes a lot of work to tell a story with the minimal amount of video and still trying to keep it interesting.
You is the best, inspires me and my wife on our projects. cheers from Brazil. :)
Thank you Cristian from Brazil...good luck on your projects!
Another job well done, awesome work
Thanks!
Another job very well done ! Your attention to detail is excellent .🤗👍👍
Thanks Allen!
awesome job guys
What a perfectionist. I mean that in a good way. You know, when I did the head and intake on the engine for the Jag you see in my avatar, I took all the nuts up to the proper torque value and the added whatever extra twist was necessary to have the flats on all the nuts line up longitudinally with the engine. It's a double overhead cam inline six with a shitload of chrome acorn nuts for the cam covers and head bolts. Did the same on the intake and exhaust. A subtle touch and maybe overkill but it pleased me. Take a look at an image of a 4.2 liter Jaguar engine and imagine all those nuts lining up.
Love your design concepts!
Thank you!
Truly the king of Curves I'll try a couple not as good as yours I like how you used your hose has the P-trap as well smart
Great as always, thanks for sharing!
Thanks Michael!
Fantastic as always! Your work inspires me to spend more time to get things right on my own projects. 👍👍 Cheers
wow nice and clean job......well organize boat.......awesome
A late scary Halloween show of the undersides! Sweet job! Emma is a great help and hope Linh did her happy dance!
I know! We can't wait to pull her out next spring to prep and paint her bottom side.
Onboard Lifestyle We (the viewers) can’t wait either!!! SV basik will be showtime ready when you permanently slip the dock lines! Your refit is legendary! Thank-you for sharing.
Mike, I do a happy dance everytime a project is completed. 💃🏻💃🏻💃🏻
Absolutely true, you’re right. Take care
Good tip's that one with the flash light for making holes in the hull :))
Laser pointer.
Well done Teal! GOD bless. JC
very impressive....from texas with awe......
Thanks Arthur...from Seattle with gratitude!
I just figured it out!
These videos are a cleverly disguised advertisements for Fisheries Supply stores!
Only taken me 36 episodes.... 🤔
Another excellent job and interesting video thanks. I always had cork bungs an assortment of for my various through Hull fittings if you ever get a leak in one of them for any reason or you lose it some how whatever , you can put the bung In.
I keep a few toilet wax rings onboard. If you have an emergency just ball it up and jam in the hole.
The work is top notch and on par with the best built boats in the world. My only concern in this though is the sink drains will have standing water in them due to that loop at the bottom. Might get a bit smelly if left for any time. I had the same issue on mine due to the sinks hose fitting being too low. I only have 2 sinks, one for galley & one for heads. They both drain forward to a whale gulper 220 pump. These can pump water & air as well as debris so it clears the lines of every drop everytime.
In northern Ohio near Lake Erie, we call May Flies, Canadian Soldiers.
Another great video! Now to see if that cats still sails. Regards, Solomon
We are doing everything possible to keep her light and efficient and can't wait to spread her wings next spring!
Hey, you probably already know, I spotted your boat on the Netflix show, "Stay Here" S1E1.
I noticed they shopped at your local marine store too. Crazy!
They took over the marina for about 3 days during filming with camera crews and drones everywhere.
Hi mate. Probably a very good idea to add a seacock or a valve. Just in case something happens.
Nic
Very flexible setup with the manifold. Never seen that on a boat - not even my house has that :)
Always freaks me out when a drill has to go through a hull - even above the waterline :)
I get too comfortable drilling into the hull sometimes....I am glad that I slowed down and triple checked my measurement on this project because my first calculation was just inches above the waterline.
While I don't disagree that silicone is fine for onboard plumbing uses I still look for 'the right kind', something that has impressive elongation similar to DOW 795. What are you using Teal? I don't think 795 comes in clear, so you must have a particular brand you like. I'd still use butyl tape on the outboard end of the thru-hull, but thats only because its less likely to interfere with future paint touch ups than silicone residue.
Just curious, did you fill the cutout with epoxy before fitting the thru hull?? Leaving the core exposed to water seems risky when it is so easy to put a bit of filler in before installing the thru hull.
Thanks for the comment Bruce, I have pulled 10 twenty-five year old thru hull fittings off and not one had an epoxy barrier and all the holes looked like the day they were drilled (3 of them had even failed with water sitting in the core). The beauty of NidaCore is that each individual cell is sealed so even if an exposed edge is underwater the moisture will not migrate past the first cell. I agree that filling would be nice but not necessary.
NIDA-CORE STRUCTURAL HONEYCOMB PANEL - The Nida-Core honeycombs are cellular structures with an 8 mm mesh made of polypropylene, which are used to form the core of structural sandwich panels. Their surface coating (non-woven polyester) can be laminated or glued to practically any type of material, for applications in many domains: construction, transport, yachting, industrial equipment, sports, recreation, etc. Specially made for contact and spray lamination. The polyester non-woven material present on the Nida-Core has a surface that is perfectly suited to impregnation with thermosetting resins (polyester, epoxy, etc.) The heat sealing method used to stick this non-woven material to the cellular structure provides a perfect bond. Finally, the plastic film placed under the non-woven material seals the cells and reduces resin consumption.
@@OnboardLifestyle Just going to play devil's advocate here: so by this logic, there was no reason to epoxy the holes for the faucets, ones that never will be in contact with water, it doesn't sound right, somehow.
Other than that, great job Teal, you are a pleasure to watch work, your meticulousness and precision blow my mind every time, another job well done, you're getting closer to the big day. Cheers!
The big difference is that the hull is polypropylene and the countertop core is wood.
That has been bugging me for a long time to.
It is true that NidaCore cells should be sealed from each other but I would not bet my life onit. There are different types of Nida Core. The one that "should" be sealed is made of core itself, thin film bonded to open sides (top, bottom) of the hexagonal cells to provide the sealing. But the main purpose is to seal against resin filling the void of cells. A layer of glass fibers is adhered over this
film to ensure bond with laminate.Somebody once tested NidaCore against water ingress and cells filled with water. But once again, not all NidaCore is the same. While PP is resistant against rot it is not advisable to have water in core. Weight, frost, hydraulic effects and such come to mind. Sealing the through hulls takes just a
bit of effort and epoxy for the piece of mind.
One more thing… many episodes ago Mr. O. Lifestyle once comented how mesmerized he was at the sight of sun rays reflecting of the water surface through translucent hull. NidaCore is not UV resistant. Actually, it is quite sensitive. Docs for NidaCore do mention the need to cover the laminate with thick enough layer of paint. Glass fibre and resin do not offer enough protection.
@@Thomas..Anderson You make solid points and I am no expert by any means. I am just speaking from my own experience with this substrate. Our boat is over 25 years old and everytime I cut a hole in the original core I inspect it thoroughly. Over the past 8 years I have easily produced 50 core samples from various parts of our boat with no signs of degradation. To learn more about our hull material I placed a piece of core sample underwater(with a weight) 7 years ago and I checked it periodically over the years to see the effect. Once I wipe the lake slime off it looks a bit discolored from algae but in solid condition and will float at the same rate it did originally. Not scientific, but enough to satisfy my own curiosities. The mesmerizing light that telegraphs though the hull was on the underside of the boat on the bridgedeck which has never seen the direct sunlight. I do admit that in that area of the boat the paint is too thin but we will be addressing that issue this next spring when we haul her out. Thanks for the conversation.
no need for shut off valve on drains? at rough passages they cant leak, i mean overpass your loop there? absolute jaw dropping work mate , thanks
Clean job as usual !! is it posible that you show how you installed the flooring ? i would love to install it on my boat , cheers !!
Will do!
Your work is always of superior quality. I do not comment as any form of critic. I ask to learn. Why a large outboard to inboard loop instead of a smaller vertically elongated corkscrew secured to the forward bulkhead and back down to the through hole? Such a corkscrew might offer more adjustment capabilities both below the sink and above the through hole. Did Emma make any of her bracelets?
Jack, the beauty of working on your own boat is that you can modify or tweek anything that does not work perfectly. So far the drains are working as designed and I will not change them until I have a bit more history with them. With that said, I am going to file your idea and revisit it if the drains fail me in any way. BTW, Emma loves her bracelets and are mostly gifts from her friends.
Another great video!
It seems like every hole or raw edge of the nidacore has been treated with epoxy. I'M curious as to your decision to not treat the through hulls?
Thanks for the comment jimffpm, I have pulled 10 twenty-five year old thru hull fittings off and not one had an epoxy barrier and all the holes looked like the day they were drilled (3 of them had even failed with water sitting in the core). The beauty of NidaCore is that each individual cell is sealed so even if an exposed edge is underwater the moisture will not migrate past the first cell. I agree that filling would be nice but not necessary.
NIDA-CORE STRUCTURAL HONEYCOMB PANEL - The Nida-Core honeycombs are cellular structures with an 8 mm mesh made of polypropylene, which are used to form the core of structural sandwich panels. Their surface coating (non-woven polyester) can be laminated or glued to practically any type of material, for applications in many domains: construction, transport, yachting, industrial equipment, sports, recreation, etc. Specially made for contact and spray lamination. The polyester non-woven material present on the Nida-Core has a surface that is perfectly suited to impregnation with thermosetting resins (polyester, epoxy, etc.) The heat sealing method used to stick this non-woven material to the cellular structure provides a perfect bond. Finally, the plastic film placed under the non-woven material seals the cells and reduces resin consumption
I love how involved Emma is in all your projects. Watching her reminds me of following my dad around in his woodshop when I was her age. The confidence I have from my DIY skills is the greatest gift my father has given me. (Although paying for college was nice, too.)
I don't know if you've seen the dust shrouds that Bosch has come out with, but I am in love with mine. (www.amazon.com/dp/B00JNA193K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_rffJBbMDJRWC0)
We bought a money pit house built in 1945. It has plaster walls, lead paint, and asbestos siding. This shroud lets me cut into the wall with my oscillating saw and hawg out electrical box openings with a 4 inch hole saw *while not being covered by a cloud of extra fine, extra poisonous dust.* I don't know how badly fiberglass dust kicks up, but it might be a nice accessory for your vacuum.
Thanks for the tip!
I guess the stopper in the sink would work
I know better than to ask the man that is so meticulous and detail oriented as you but when you were outside measuring the waterline to the thru hulls, did you allow for the extra weight the boat will take on with supplies and fuel, etc.? And thank you for clearing up the GFI sink outlets for me. I had concerns.
We live aboard and are overloaded now. We will be lightening the load before we leave and get into full cruising mode.
@@OnboardLifestyle As the waves crash through underneath I'm pretty sure the outlets will sometimes be under water. Shouldn't be a problem on a cat though. On a monohull the leaning of the boat can sometimes backfill the galley with seawater. As such they normally have seacocks on all skin fittings.
Im following you since a few days. From Argentina. Beautiful boat. What kind or model is the cat? Thanks!
Hi there again does the waste go straight into the lake? I always thought boats had holding tanks which was pumped out periodically. Enjoying all the videos and looking forward to seeing a tup go on the rear seating area. Best wishes from the uk
Annette Bates I believe gray water can be dumped overboard directly. Black water is held and dumped when x miles from shore.
Black water has to be pumped out from the holding tank by pump-out service in the marina. One of their earlier videos shows that process. I believe most marinas allow grey water to go over the side.
Parts of northern europe are now not allowing grey water over the side either now. All has to be held & pumped. Very few boats have grey water tanks fitted though.
S/V Harley Quinn that sounds better otherwise pollution in the oceans will get worse for it. Glad to hear and hope this is required all over soon.
@@englishrose1122 The unfortunate reality is the whole worlds boats pollution is miniscule compared to what is actually being pumped into the sea. Man is a disgusting & dirty creature!
Love that manifold! Did you make that? I'm heading down to get a label maker for sure after seeing how well marked your stuff is.
I purchased the manifold online a few years back. I just checked to get a link for you but it is no longer available, plenty other are though!
Thanks for these videos. I'm more confident now I can take on the patch jobs. BTW are the scuppers in the cockpit large enough to handle a rogue wave from astern?
We have eight scuppers in the cockpit now and I want more for sure. When we haul out I am adding three more along with a large emergency scupper.
Did you install a water pressure regulation valve on the dock? too much town pressure can blow your pipes of the fittings, filling the boat with water.
I totally agree with you Frank. I have measured the water pressure from the dock and it has ranged from 25 to 75 PSI. That's why I installed the Shurflo # 183-029-18 bulkhead mount 65 PSI regulator.
All thru hulls must be double hose clamped per ABYC. Any surveyor will ding single clamps and no seacock.
Teal, with one water line off of each hot and cold, where did you split the lines for both sinks?
Good eye John! I have a dedicated lines to each fixture onboard with the exception of the master head sinks. I wish my manifold had one more port because I was forced to "T" the water supply under one of the sinks (which I was desperately trying to avoid). The last port will be dedicated to the master head shower.
Onboard Lifestyle Thank you, that was my question also, just wanted to see if anyone else had asked that first. Just started watching your channel and I love everything you are doing.
Off the subject question, will you be putting a hardtop on her or run a Bimini style top when you set sail??? Boat looks great!
Thanks for watching Derek! Check out episode 27 were we talk about this subject.ua-cam.com/video/dy4Jzx3KCP4/v-deo.html
Double clamp anything hooked to a through hull
Beautiful. But why a countertop? That's just added weight, thickness and complexity?
Couldn't you have applied your countertop finish to the existing structure? Add a lip if you want it to look like it's a slab of something?
Yes you are correct , it would be lighter, but not by much (2.6 lbs). I built it unattached for the ease of applying the granite topcoat. It would be very difficult to create a crisp clean edge of the countertop topcoat if it was blended into the surrounding walls.
I notice you used silicone to seal the through holes rather than butyl tape, is this just a personal preference or does silicone do a better job for longer sealing the join? Once again a very informative video, so keep them coming. A belated Happy Halloween from Australia!!!
Talking sealants on UA-cam is like talking politics or religion. I did use silicone in this case because it is above the waterline and is UV shaded by the bridgedeck. Nothing against butyl tape, I just don't use it often.
Is that green stuff in the background edible? :) Would be great to have herbs while sailing on the open ocean. Love your videos.
The faux wheatgrass is a bit tough to chew and is only used for a privacy shade while in the marina. We have experimented with growing herbs onboard and will try to become better horticulturists as we travel.
To bad you couldn't insulate the hot water lines better. Boat, RV, or home it really improves the efficiency of any hot water system and the delivery of the warmer hot water to it's end point. Given the space constraints I'm not sure there's room.
Space is key...I have minimal room to insulate the water lines inside the boat but have insulated both the hot and cold lines exterior.
@@OnboardLifestyle Cold water lines don't really need insulation unless there's freeze threat. How hot do your really need it to be at a sink? Not very really. However, finding or keeping your eyes open for some way to insulate your shower hot water line might just be enough. Something for your like to do list perhaps? If you find something suitable. It certainly would make cleaning up after a strenuous day much nicer.
I had to learn the hard way double tap everything
Oooops!
Mmh. think I'd want a seacock on those through hulls even though they are above the water line.
You are completely correct. After installing the fittings I thought that in heavy seas we may get water forced backwards into the sinks so I will be adding seacocks in the near future.
Or a check valve.
I thought of a check valve as well but decided against because Linh's and Emma's hair would be constantly fouling it.
That's exactly what I was thinking the whole time.. Some rough seas could lead to back up. Was searching comments for someone else to say it first.. lol.
As it's a cat that doesn't lean you might be OK. How high above the waterline are the tops of the sinks? Backfilling the hose isn't an issue as the flushing action would help clean them.
wont sink water collect in the loop, why noy put an elbow on bottom of sink go straight to the outlet
I try to avoid elbows on drains because they tend to be a clogging point and, yes, water stays in the loop just like a P-trap. Thanks for watching Peter!
Put a check valve on those thru hulls or at least a sea cock. Personally, I would have used 5200 on the thru hulls, but that's just me.
I agree with you and will be installing seacocks. I have a tough time with fouling check valves on drains with all of the hair the ladies have.
I didn't see a valve on the sea cock hmm.