24:30 - No, Jay, you're not crazy. If you're going to charge your customers 4000$ beyond what the parts are worth when put in a normal configuration, the damn setup shouldn't even be "above average". It should be, at the very least, within the top 1% of all configurations. They're effectively overcharging people 4000$ for better performance via cooling solutions which people with a 300$ budget for fans, AIO and cases can do much better to begin with.
Agreed. When I built a $4k pc 9 years ago, it tested in top 3% on Firestrike. It had a boot drive (back when that was a thing), 4 other drives in raid, 2 gpus, and a fully custom water cooling setup.
It's good to see a company respond with actual changes, however... It's a HUGE red flag that nobody caught choked-off fans and fans cooling nothing... AFTER the revision. Just wow.
But they haven't ACTUALLY changed anything yet - they've SAID these changes are coming, but given the issues the company has demonstrated already, I'm not entirely confident they WILL come to pass.
It's been years, they've known for years. They don't care because people are buying them because they don't know any better. That's their target audience. And when the issue pops up, they just buy another one.
these companies are banking on dumb-dumbs not understanding computers and airflow. they make money on people who essentially buy premade dell and apple computers for daily tasks. this is why its important to take an hour to watch a build video before you purchase your own parts and build your own.
It's pretty insane that these obvious design mistakes were made in the first place by a company like this. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to see how bad the airflow was. Offering a "fix" is fine and all but this shouldn't have happened in the first place.
What's worse is that the computer costs 8k, at that price, I expect vent holes EVERYWHERE, we're talking about a 4090, not a 1050. Surely you don't want to cook a 2500/3000+$ card (before the warranty, if you are the company that designs and builds the system).
@eddyh252 I wouldnt be surprised if Linus had made it unstable. He is a piss poor techtuber, people should never watch him to make opinions of products.
Cut-outs in tempered glass require the glass to have the cut-out before tempering. That is very uncommon because the glass structure is compromised (it breaks easier). A metal frame around a glass side-panel with cut-outs would be a good compromise. ALL of that would add significantly to cost/lower profit. People with $8K to spend on a gaming PC have unlimited funds. Those people would go with a total custom build by a talented case modder. That product at that price point is marketing to increase sales of their lower priced products. It was never intended to sell in any meaningful quantity on it's own.
@@1nicube yes, and those holes were made in the sheet of glass *BEFORE* it was tempered. ...and they're now stress points where applied force can overwhelm the internal tension the tempered glass has and result in fracture.
This is the kind of stuff that made me fall in love with Jay's content. No matter who you are a sponsor or not he will crucify you if you are doing something wrong for the good of his viewers. He's like bros before sponsors kinda guy and am really glad that aventum took the criticisms positively and made some changes needed for the betterment of the customers.
@@Xerou well you sacrificing a virgin to the blood gods makes them very very happy and they give you the best when you find and give them a virgin just make sure your victim is a virgin because if they aren't you'll get screwed big time by the blood gods they do not like fake virgin sacrifices so do your home work when selecting the target sacrifice to the blood gods💀💀
Sending the side panels with sharp edges instead of rounding them is pretty shitty. If you can take the time to cut holes into the panel you can round the edges with a router.
I was thinking the same. I didn't know this company before, but if anyone would ask me, I would suggest against that brand. Like if the rads and power-supply choking off due to the glass panel was not bad enough, if you ask for their freaking acrylic replacement they are not able to have the holes at the right places, nor rounding the edge, when they freaking know that this panel goes to a reviewer. Well, at least there was one thing right with that build, the original look. This is basically the only reason to pay that 4000$, since you get no gain at all, you pay for a piece of arts.
If you think about the Air Flow Engineering that went into Falcon Northwest to do what they do with their form factor type set ups... there is absolutely no excuse as to why an 8000 dollar set up can't have premium air flow out of the box. So I'm with you, Jay.
So fun fact from a random person on the internet. I almost worked for digital storm, I went in for an interview to get the position of computer assembly tech. I was told later they never intended hiring me in that position (they also had me build a computer for them to "test" me) and instead wanted me in customer service. I immediately told them no thank you as that seemed pretty scummy to me, and left.
"Acrylic scratches like crazy" - yes.... Also - protective film used on car windshields can also be applied to acrylic panes.... and they will mitigate most of the problems....
What kind of film? As a window tinter who installs all sorts of different applied adhesives, you would have to use a specific blister free film on any kind of acrylic/plexiglass before you can apply film made for glass. The film will just roll off in a month or two if not. The blister free film is super thin and has no durability to withstand even the slightest scratch. Edit: you could try using a clear shield PPF, but I don’t know how well it would stay without adding an extra adhesive to the acrylic side.
Any shape you can cut in acrylic, you can cut on glass. The problem with tempered glass is that you must cut the holes before tempering the glass. After the glass is tempered, you will shatter it if you try to do any modifications to it.
@@sumdude4 I suspect that it'll cut the hole normally but it'd be so fragile that it'd break easily under very light loads which makes it impractical. I might be wrong, I don't have a ton of experience with glass but I've worked with tempered glass before, but not like this. I think the problem is that if it is tempered before the cut then when you do cut the shape out the edges are not tempered the same as they would have been if the cuts had been done before hand. Don't take this as Gospel, I'm just theorizing.
@@sumdude4I walked around this exact problem, so I can chime in, and relay what I heard from machinists. WJ will shatter tempered glass, if it hits resonant frequency in it, and it does so pretty frequently, as it's basically hard molecules rubbing against straight edge, it's like a bow on a violin string. When making tool paths for WJ you have to take into account whole shape of the glass at every stage of the process. It's difficult, very, very few people know how to do it correctly, and in general you will hear "no". To add insult to injury, In most cases it breaks right at the end of cutting process, close to separation.
Not entirely trued. Tight corners in glass can cause stress fractures so generally warerjet, drilling and cnc machines use minimum radius in internal corners to reduce stress breakage during toughening. Size and location is a limitation in glass holes/cutouts.
My brother ordered a pc from them two years ago for $2200. I assumed at that price point even during the gpu apocalypse that the 1660 would atleast have two fan shroud. Nope it was a stock single fan shroud... and the r5 5600x had a stock cooler and would peak 90c often. We've modded plenty since then with a new asus 3070 and a hyper 212 cpu cooler. My complaint is that at the time we didn't know much about pc and we definitely paid $1200 over what we should have for the quality of the build.
@@turambar304 The design has changed over the years, but they kept the name and even release variants. Main selling point is it can cool around 120 watts more or less and for a very cheap price.
Almost like that company doesn’t know anything about building a pc like how do they just ship put these Pcs with all these mistakes like nothing was tested at all
The moral of the story is that just because something very expensive doesn’t mean it’s going to be a very good system to the price going to something like a falcon Northwest which without looking at the website is going to give you a better experience for I’m assuming again, I haven’t checked the prices. I write this a cheaper price, or get a good system from a local company thanks for the information guys
For that markup, they really should have cut, smoothed, and bevelled circular holes in the glass above the fans. Why doesn't anyone do that? It's really expensive. But if your mark-up is 4k, and you're "looks first", then that's the kind of thing I'd expect to see.
I love it when PCs are works of art but never over performance. I paid around 3K for all of the parts for my latest system and assembled it myself. It’s not perfect but it looks good and I’m happy with it. I wouldn’t be happy if I paid 8K and it was pretty but the parts don’t reach their full potential.
A year ago I spent about $3k for the parts to build a system with a 7800x3d and a 4090. Put an aio on the cpu and 3 fans on the front. GN had a video that showed another fan in the rear of the case I chose made basically no difference in temps. To be clear, if I run the fans at high speeds, I barely leave 40°C on my gpu and stay in the 60's on the cpu. This whole build from digital storm is a joke.
Your parting words were exactly my thoughts. There is no doubt that you and your crew can greatly improve on this set up. I look forward to seeing that.
You're completely right in your criticizing of the small details. There's a growing trend in this industry where they treat extremely high-priced items like they are budget tier from a startup company *cut to linus saying a 600 dollar card was a budget card*
To remove the paper from the acrylic, warm it up with a hair dryer or heat gun. Just don't linger too long on any one spot. It will weaken the bonds in the glue. I usually follow up with hot soapy water to remove any residue.
@@SnuggleLabes What do you mean?? The acrylic sheets ALWAYS come with protective paper to prevent scratches, they come like that directly from the factory. You're supposed to only remove the protective backing paper just before use.
You can cut holes in tempered glass. It is not recommened however, because it compromises the rigidity of the glass, and most real world applications of tempered glass do not require a hole in it. You would also need to laser cut it, which is super expensive, any mechanical tool would just ruin the glass. Pretty much, you would need to form the glass in that shape in the first place, rather than try to cut holes in it. And there aren't many glass producers making anything other than flat panels. But in the same way that they can shape glass for a particular application for example a Quarter Panel window, vs a Windshield, they can produce the glass in that way as well. They could produce a mold for it and form the glass that way, with holes in it, but again, super expensive, would actually probably be cheaper to laser the holes out.
Literally placed an order for one of these a few years ago, and ended up having to call and cancel cause they couldn't even give me a timely update that my machine was delayed due to back ordered parts. It was absolutely infuriating, but saved myself a ton of money building my own air cooled system with all the same parts two weeks later 😂
14:38 protective paper/film or stickers not coming off the glass (acrylic is even worse) are a complete dealbreaker 🤦♂ how hard is it in 2024 to get sticker/paper/film where the glue is not dyring out leaving you rage quitting (and scratching acrylic for sure) while trying to remove it ??? 😡
The process of tempering glass is both it's strength and weakness, I forget the exact science behind it but it's under constant pressure from the tempering process so when you cut into it it'll more than likely pop (shatter) I don't know if you can temper glass AFTER creating the holes or not though. An afterthought, you should loan this to Gamers nexus for a full range of testing, I would LOVE to see steve tear these guys apart hehe I can just picture him taking one look and going "really?"
You CAN temper odd shapes, but the more holes or irregularities you make in the glass, the more difficult it becomes to successfully temper it (i.e. you're gonna have a % of failures; more wastage which starts to increase the price beyond just the custom cuts). Also, as interesting as that would be, Steve's not getting any younger - I don't want us to be a contributing factor to him getting an ulcer or something! :D
Of course, you can cut holes in tempered glass. Think about custom shower doors. Holes for the handles. It may have to be thicker than the current side panels to stay safe?
OK. So I've googled the difference between dynamic and static QR code now and I'm still clueless about the difference. Static contains either static data or it links you to a landing site, which you can change whenever you want, to whatever you want. A dynamic one does the same? What's the difference and use-case? Or is it simply the classic of "solving a problem that wasn't there to begin with and some marketing diarrhea"? I'm honestly confused here.
@@maskharat a dynamic QR code is essentially a URL that redirects to another URL, and you can change where it gets redirected to on the fly. static QR code points to a specific webpage, and yes, you are correct that they could change the content of that webpage, but the URL would stay the same and could be confusing if the URL says something different than what's shown on the page.
@@maskharat Dynamic QR is a bad marketing wording for what you just describe. Its not about the QR code itself (which will always point to something precise) but the content behind (you can adjust the content of the link after such change). Googling "Dynamic QR Code" makes me afraid how little is needed to make a company in this world. You just need better marketing than the competitor xD
Jay showing his passion for an enthusiast level build and REALLY wants it to be good! Much respect for not pulling any punches on how it should have been built!
You can put holes in a tempered glass pane, I have a deepcool case that has a tempered glass side panel that has 4 screw holes. I'm not a glass expert, but I assume it's going to cost loads of money, acrylic is way cheaper to buy and laser-cut. Also, a quick search on google, says that you CAN UV print on acrylic. I see the vent holes issue on the back side panel, they just cut 2 sheets at once and called it the day, the paper wrapping on the Plexiglas tearing and/or not coming off, in my experience, is usually a sign of cheap acrylic.
It can be done, you'd just have to cut the holes BEFORE the pane of glass gets tempered; given that they probably don't do that in-house, it'd probably increase their costs and hassle to custom order panes from the supplier than just getting simple panes in volume.
As a Glazier, you can cut hole in toughened/tempered glass before it is heat treated (which makes it toughened). You cannot cut or drill holes after the toughening process. So to answer your question, yes you could have a vent in the side of the panel.
To help get old paper protectors off acrylic, there's a couple of tricks. 1. Apply steam _carefully._ - you really don't want the acrylic over 190°f (87.7C) where it begins to soften (and get even easier to scratch) though it won't actually melt until 320°f (160C) so you can't actually damage it though steam alone. The heat will help release the glue, and it'll peel off a lot more easily. 2. -Let rubbing alcohol (isopropyl) soak through the paper to attack the glue. Won't harm the acrylic, but more likely to leave a sticky residue that technique 1 above. Can remove that with some goo gone, or more isopropyl and a paper towel to "pick up" the residue when it's softened again.- Edit: As @Taurickk pointed out below, Isopropyl will damage acrylic. Kerosene is probably the solvent most likely to attack the glue without damaging the acrylic, but of course is a potential fire hazard, and I'm not sure it would be that effective on the glue anyways. Go with method 1.
@@Taurickk you are entirely correct. Must have been thinking of another plastic. Isopropyl will make acrylic look cloudy due to micro fractures! Same with methyl and ethyl alcohols as well as acetone, which are other good glue solvents normally. Thank you for pointing out my mistake.
non-acetone nail polish remover is what you are looking for. It's usually the pink stuff. It will remove the glue with no residue, discoloration, or damage to the acrylic. It's also very good for removing paint from acrylic. Best used in a spray bottle.
The beauty of QR codes (or simply hyperlinks in general), assuming you handle URL destinations/redirects/landing page campaigns correctly… is that you can easily fix it after the fact on the fly for QR codes/URLs that have already been published, printed, and distributed.
If I remember correctly, you can technically cut holes in the glass first before the tempering process, but after it's tempered you no longer can cut holes in the glass or it'll shatter.
Exactly - I'm willing to wager that they don't temper the panes themselves, so this would result in making more complicated (and expensive) custom orders from their supplier. It probably would be doable, but it would depend on how much they would be willing to go through for that.
@@ItsVoidion Heck, maybe they have plans to do that with the 'revised' case they're working on now? (which makes it LESS likely they'd start to offer it as a support option to current models)
The more of these videos I see the more I love my Fractal Torrent. It stays cool, it is reliable, it is cheaper, and if a fain fails on any component the system won't overheat and I can just order a new one. I also can't have an air spill if something goes wrong.
You can UV print on acrylic. It was my job for a number of years. Look up EFI EFIPRO16H. That is what I used. Can handle 10ft 1inch thick Acrylic. Total pain to cut on CNC machine though. The weight alone requires 3-4 people to pick up and move.
Very true.... Yeah but who wants to do that after paying 8 grand, the type of person buying a PC for that kinda dollar...aint gonna be getting his hands wet or scraping off soggy csardboard infused glue for an hour... I dunno, if that was mine, i would not be happy. Ya wanna charge 8 grand, then make it be worth an 8 grand experience...Must do better.... 🤡
Jay, one solution to the acrylic scrathing, going back to the Chieftec cases day... Clear window security film. Remove the protective film and immediately apply the clear film.
Small Info: Yes, you can UV-print on acrylic, and basically any other surface, including leather etc. Best wishes P.S.: Yes, you can have holes in tempered glass. They have to be cut during manufacturing, before tempering, though. So each glass would be a special order at the plant, making things fairly expensive.
My first PC was from digital Storm I did have to deal with their customer service twice both times they were very helpful and quick my GPU died and they replaced it no issues
The easiest solution would be to make a shortened side panel that exposes the fans. Place mounting holes and grommits on the top 3/4ths of the case and mesh out the radiator 1/4th.
They could water jet holes into the tempered glass. Or, as others have stated in other comments, cut the holes first, then temper. Although, I'm not sure how the stresses of the heat-temper cycle would work with the holes in place.
Why holes in tempered glass? Wouldn’t you want a filter? Which would ruin your fancy holes anyway? Just have tempered glass in the viewing area and mesh with filters in the fan area. Don’t over complicate.
@@Christopher_S I'm guessing you din't know how water jets work? They use a high pressure water stream with an abrasive in it. Cuts through almost anything like butter.
@@mikeford963 I'm guessing you don't know how tempered glass works? Once completed, the sheet is under constant internal tension; makes it resilient to occasional knocks and bumps, but sufficient force that overloads that internal tension results in fracture. You're proposing to blast what is, essentially, a pressure-sensitive fragmentation bomb with HIGH-PRESSURE WATER; hope you're wearing full-body PPE...or have plenty of antiseptic on hand.
I'm aware how tempered glass works. And I should have asked the wonderful woman that Google is before I posted that. Tempered glass is the exception to the rule of "anything" can be cut with a waterjet.
I work in a large shower glass enclosure manufacturing company. Yes very different than pc glass but really the same concept. You can have holes in tempered glass but you have to create the holes BEFORE you temper. This is hard because you have to have the equipment to not only temper glass (you should see the oven we have, it’s connected to it’s own transformer it pulls so much power and is so big) but also a way to cut the interior of the annealed (not tempered) glass. We use a waterjet CNC that uses high pressure and sand. Recently we’ve upgraded to a vertical milling cnc machine! This uses diamond bits to smooth and make the edges pretty and to do any cut outs inside the glass or outside. Also when you do this there’s alot of weird stresses from the holes in the glass that can happen when tempering that can just make it go pop when it’s cooling in the quench, when you pick it up off the oven, it can even just explode after sitting in the rack for hours. TL;DR you can absolutely have holes in tempered glass it’s just VERY involved especially mass produced. Love your stuff Jay!
24:50 ...It´s totally reasonable to expect excellence after dropping 8K for a system, and your expectations are nothing but fair when you think that something like this would have better "Everything" compared to a air-cooled potato... what actually doesn´t!!! ...and that´s not acceptable.
Tempered glass, starts out as a sheet of glass. The sheet of glass then goes through heat treatment, with the result being tempered glass. You can design the glass sheet, with holes, engraving, etc before hand. This also increases the price, which is why most panels are just 2 to 4 holes in each corner or have metal plates chemically bonded to them. This is for all case manufacturers in general, offer case with metal (5-25mm hole size. Panel with 10mm hole size or panel with 20mm hole size) mesh side panels, instead of the glass/plastic. I have quite a few glass and plastic side panels lying around, because of how restrictive they are on air flow.
TEMPERED / TOUGHENED GLASS. Tempered / Toughened glass starts as regular "float" glass, the same glass you all see break in to massive sharp chunks. Heating it and rapidly cooling gets it tempered / toughened, which is around 3x stronger than float glass, and highly heat resistant. It is also considered as safety glass due to the fact that it shatters in to tiny pieces of glass. For that reason it is used in automotive applications, and high heat environments. While regular glass is common in home windows, etc. Since Tempered / Toughened glass starts its life as regular float glass, you can do whatever you want with it during manufacturing. Cutting to shape, drilling holes, making cut outs, polishing external and internal edges, etc... But, once its "toughened", you are unable to do any modifications to the glass which would change the structure of it. This is because toughening process creates surface tension in the glass itself. This surface tension is what gives it 3x strength. And it is also the reason why it explodes if chipped - tension makes it collapse on itself and go poof! Only small shape alterations can be made to tempered glass, and even then its at a risk of self destruction. You can polish down 1mm or so on the edges. Beyond that - danger zone! Be aware, handle toughened glass with care, if you bump it on the corner (provided it has no CNC radius) in to something tough like concrete, it will not chip, it will rapidly self-destruct in your hands. Float glass would chip instead. Tempered / Toughened glass can be laminated, painted, printed via UV inks, sandblasted. NOTE. Ceramic print is done before toughening process, unlike UV print. This is because the ceramic ink is cooked and becomes one with the molecular structure of the surface of the glass. That is what you see in ovens, windscreen black surrounds, stoves, etc. Highly temp and wear resistant, but limited in colour gamut.
I get the idea that there are two tiers of premium brands. We're talking about Lamborghini or Mansuri level of premiums. Some brands don't want you to worry about anything - they not only value you as their customer, but they also want you to buy their next, often limited, product. Then we have Digital Storm, who know they are "unique" in this segment, their other competitors practice the same services. They know that you can't go anywhere else for this stuff, so they bully you into all sorts of extra costs.
i used to work on a tempering line at a window pane manufacturer in the USA. We had a different section of the factory that cut glass to unusual shapes and with holes in them. We never saw their panes come through the tempering line. I was told that the holes and unusual shapes increased the chance of breaking during the quenching stage substantially so we just didnt offer it as an option. So while i do think it is possible, it would likely be much, much more expensive as they would have to make like 10 or 12 panels so that one would survive the process.
Cutting holes in the glass, while increasing airflow, would also increase tooling costs. Anything more than straight lines is much harder to do without shattering.
They should have gone "old school" with the acrylic panels still having the fancy see-through top half, while painting/imprinting the "cyber" graphics over the lower vents, which would have gone well with a fancy hex pattern. Or just showcase a fully painted steel or acrylic panel with integrated vents (which also was old school case design).
In order to get a hole, design or pattern on tempered glass, you would would have to do the work first and *then* temper the glass. By its nature, tempered glass is extremely strong but brittle on the surface due to it being placed under an immense amount of stress. So if there were to be any cuts or defects on the glass after it was tempered, it would shatter.
Hi Jay. You can get tempered glass with holes in it. You can't cut holes into tempered glass so they have to be cut/drilled prior to tempering. Once drilled/cut then the glass can be tempered so yes in response to your question it is entirely possible
It is nice that they listened to some parts, but it is concerning that they did the somewhat vented acrylic panel as an afterthought. That's what it seems like, anyways. I do appreciate that they are working on some other stuff.
You don’t need to justify your criticism by the way. You are a reviewer, review without apology. You aren’t a “this sucks” without reason guy. You’ve earned the privilege to just give your honest opinion and let it be.
Made the mistake of buying a high end DS water cooled system and not long after I noticed the plastic tubing leaking due to the fittings overheating and shrinking/molding them to their internal shape. I had to replace the tubing multiple times and the MB fried but at least they fixed it under warranty replacing the board and upgrading the fittings. However due to lack of efficient cooling the problem occurred again. Finally I bought Pyrex tubing that matched the ID and OD of the plastic tubing, cut them to length using a glass cutter and to my surprise, they fit and worked well! Long story short, I ended up getting into DIY custom water loops myself! Rebuilt the whole system custom.
i normally binge watch you when im building a pc then after its built i dont watch much. but seen u have been sick and decided to restart the binge. hope ur getting better big guy my love from scotland
I've been looking at the Aventum X for a couple months now and was fully prepared to purchase once new intel and 50 series came out. But watching these last couple of videos I can definitely say I'm out until there is a drastic redesign of the case style. I'm fully aware of the markup and all, but I'm in a position where that didn't bother me and I LOVE the aesthetic. But like you, Jay, I can't sacrifice performance at the cost of aesthetic. Form. Follows. Function.
I just want to say thank you for being so critical with this setup. You said it best with the comment 8k you tend to expect to be above avg. I have no doubt many people have sent the same concern you have into DS and they just blew them off. So again ty for speaking on our behalf❤ 🍻
Since you mentioned dialing in your testing strategies: I''ve seen der8auer setting fans to a fixed speed based on decibels, saturating the system and then checking for the power draw. To me, that made a lot of sense if you aim for the same DB value for different systems. That way, you could compare which system is able to vent more thermal energy.
In my water cooling setups, I made sure they have plenty of air. I can run my fans at low rpm's and get the temperature differentiation to 3C from low rpm's to full speed. This way, my system runs cool and very quiet. I also use full tower cases (Lian Li PC-V2120's) as I hate cases where you have to cram everything into tiny spaces.
Does the brown paper protective layer on the acrylic have glue which is water soluble? 🙂🤷♂️ The whole design especially the cooling is just wrong. For that system cost it should be far better at cooling the GPU (and CPU) than it is. They share your passion Jay but their top priority is making money for their business owners and shareholders not building PC's. Build an $8000 PC and lets DS see how it should be done! 🙂
From what I've learned working with tempered glass for furniture applications is that you can cut holes through the glass, though it needs to be at a minimum twice as wide/twice the diameter of the glass' thickness. Any cut-out should not exceed 1/3 of the overall width of the panel. You'll also need to leave 2x the glass' thickness gap away from the edge to the start of any cut-out. Anything outside of these limits will cause too much internal stress and will eventually (if not immediately) fail. These were the rules used for 8mm thick back painted tempered glass. YMMV for thinner glass, but the principles should be the same.
I had a full glass side panel for my pre-built computer with a 2070 super. Was hitting 83°C while gaming and not boosting as high. I custom made a fiberglass mesh side panel and now it boosts over 1980Mhz and Temps are in the 60°Cs!
I custom watercool my rigs because they become a piece of artwork and focal point in the room and not something u want to hide. Any decrease in temps or sound is just a bonus. My new white and purple build is beautiful looking. The same build using air cooling would not look anywhere as good. Also, with the number of radiators, I can set my fans to a much lower rpm, making the system much quieter than an air-cooled rig when the fans ramp up as the system gets hotter.
Haha there is a technique to pull the paper off without it tearing even when the paper is older! we do a lot of acrylic cutting at work, and you get good at removing paper and plastic coverings.
The best case design thermally is double exhaust radiators(front&top) 1 rad for gpu 1 rad for cpu, 100% hot air out, lots of intake mesh on bottom/side/back. Interior temp is then simply ambient.
A couple of things I noticed in the video. ?Their response for filling did not say to allow it to suck in air. I know your knowledge tells you that is an issue but these kinds of documents are not written for each configuration, they are written for general application. They need to have something specific for this pump combo due to the high fluid pumping capacity. Also the person writting you the response may not be water cooling or even computer type. That would be the only reason I could think of for why thy wouldnt know about the jumper. Finally the acrillic panels are from atleast the open side of the work station. If you look at the demo model on their site you will see the lower holes are for the fans and the higher ones are from the gpu stack. I do not see a photo of the back site. I think they just sent 2 of the open side panels as they would work. Enjoy the videos keep it up.
You can get holes in tempered glass, the glass panels you got originally have holes in them for the mounting hardware. The holes have to be cut in the glass before it’s tempered though
I really appreciate these videos your team does Mr. 2cents. In my opinion, if you're a company that creates computer cases and you ship a product that has no airflow for a good portion of the cooling rads; that is disqualifying and I can't buy any of your products because I've seen the proof that you do not have the knowledge to do the basics or you don't care. Digital storm has been around a long time so there is no excuse for not knowing that airflow is important. So I'm glad they are changing the design but for this potential customer the damage is done. P.S. the Aventum looks great visually
10:03 i have literally just spent the last few minutes thinking you should make a video with this exact point. Re-run your standard cooling test with the original panels on, then remove the bottom 2 rads and run the test with only the top 420 (with original panels on) and compare. is your gut accurate and would you actually get better cooling with only the 420 than with everything?
Hey, Jay, I run a UV printing business. Acrylic can absolutely be printed on. Maybe if they did a 1/2 upper glass door and did a lower UV printed acrylic panel with drilled out vent holes?
It's not just that you are paying for parts you don't need, it's that you are also paying for needlessly greater complexity in the system which in turn increases the risk of failure. I like the metal frame idea. Back panel fan cut outs be like 🤔. Thanks Jay!
Ooooooooo! If you could set up a time lapse of system running, starting off fully cool, let whole case be in frame and let run to see the heat build!!!! That would be awesome to watch heat up! Am glad for all the good and bad going on here! Very down to earth and not so 'smart' ppl won't get what you are saying! Thank you guys for being you!!!!!!
Tempered glass is processed through controlled thermal or chemical treatments to increase its strength. This process makes it much harder than regular glass. You can cut regular glass but use scotch tape as the barrier to stop any shattering, i am a stained glass artist and there are circular tools for cutting glass circles out.
Yes, you can etch (don't remember what the technical term is) holes in tempered glass. The issue would be shipping it, it would be more fragile (especially around the thinner areas ofc). I used to purchase glass for slot machines and we would purchase tempered glass from our vendors with beveled windows etched into them. There's probably significantly better equipment for it these days (this was 20ish years ago); they would submerge a piece of pre-cut tempered glass and use a CAD program to essentially sand blast the windows out and that process also etched the edges to make them safe from cut hazards.
Suffocation, No Breathing, Can't run Cinebench cuz my CPU is Bleeding!
i see what you did there. i came to comment something similar lol
Lol
This is my Digital Stormmmmmmmm
wait
why it's sounds familiar!!
Cut my frames in-to pieces, This is my Digital Storm, Suffocation, Radiator Choking, Ruining my glass with all the holes I'm now poking!
Instead of $50 shipping for the acrylic panels, maybe they should just include them in the box with the $8k computer.
That would be tooooo reasonable, can't run a company like that nowadays 😂
Oh snap
NOW that makes too much sense!
24:30 - No, Jay, you're not crazy. If you're going to charge your customers 4000$ beyond what the parts are worth when put in a normal configuration, the damn setup shouldn't even be "above average". It should be, at the very least, within the top 1% of all configurations.
They're effectively overcharging people 4000$ for better performance via cooling solutions which people with a 300$ budget for fans, AIO and cases can do much better to begin with.
A 300$ fan aio and case budget is still what i'd call "extreme enthusiast". $4000 better be plated with gold for that price.
$4000* $300*
Agreed. When I built a $4k pc 9 years ago, it tested in top 3% on Firestrike. It had a boot drive (back when that was a thing), 4 other drives in raid, 2 gpus, and a fully custom water cooling setup.
@@Policepigeon A $300 fan, aio, and case budget is entry tier now my dude.
That price is more than fair. They figured out what the fair price was, and then they charged more...
It's good to see a company respond with actual changes, however...
It's a HUGE red flag that nobody caught choked-off fans and fans cooling nothing... AFTER the revision.
Just wow.
But they haven't ACTUALLY changed anything yet - they've SAID these changes are coming, but given the issues the company has demonstrated already, I'm not entirely confident they WILL come to pass.
It's been years, they've known for years. They don't care because people are buying them because they don't know any better. That's their target audience. And when the issue pops up, they just buy another one.
these companies are banking on dumb-dumbs not understanding computers and airflow. they make money on people who essentially buy premade dell and apple computers for daily tasks. this is why its important to take an hour to watch a build video before you purchase your own parts and build your own.
😂
Engineers being engineers. I'm an engineer and I would say 75% of Engineers are blatantly stupid with massive Egos. 😊
It's pretty insane that these obvious design mistakes were made in the first place by a company like this. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to see how bad the airflow was. Offering a "fix" is fine and all but this shouldn't have happened in the first place.
It's extremely concerning. I noticed this years ago when Linus unboxed one. It was unstable out of the box due to a ram oc.
What's worse is that the computer costs 8k, at that price, I expect vent holes EVERYWHERE, we're talking about a 4090, not a 1050.
Surely you don't want to cook a 2500/3000+$ card (before the warranty, if you are the company that designs and builds the system).
This entire Digital Storm business feels like one big ad for learning how to build PCs yourself to avoid dealing with stuff like this.
Yea, but when they send you products and pay you for it, you can let them off until they start to not pay you...
@eddyh252 I wouldnt be surprised if Linus had made it unstable. He is a piss poor techtuber, people should never watch him to make opinions of products.
Cut-outs in tempered glass require the glass to have the cut-out before tempering. That is very uncommon because the glass structure is compromised (it breaks easier). A metal frame around a glass side-panel with cut-outs would be a good compromise. ALL of that would add significantly to cost/lower profit.
People with $8K to spend on a gaming PC have unlimited funds. Those people would go with a total custom build by a talented case modder. That product at that price point is marketing to increase sales of their lower priced products. It was never intended to sell in any meaningful quantity on it's own.
shower use tempered glass and have holes for handles and glass holder
@@1nicube yes, and those holes were made in the sheet of glass *BEFORE* it was tempered.
...and they're now stress points where applied force can overwhelm the internal tension the tempered glass has and result in fracture.
@@empath69 yes. Didnt said how they are made.
Just that it is possible!
@@empath69 What stress do you incur on side panels vs shower doors... very little comparatively.
@@vi683a the screw holes - don't overtighten...
The Fans Cooling a solid back panel 💀
But those fans are RGB...so even if you can't see them it's GAYMUR
Those are just there for looks... Oh wait... You can't see them.
The coolest back panel money can buy!
You Just have to love it.
I can buy some nice Amateur Radio Equipment for 8-Killobucks.
I mean, they probably lower the temp of that panel and thus the temp inside the case. But how much? And how much effect does it have on anything?
This is the kind of stuff that made me fall in love with Jay's content. No matter who you are a sponsor or not he will crucify you if you are doing something wrong for the good of his viewers. He's like bros before sponsors kinda guy and am really glad that aventum took the criticisms positively and made some changes needed for the betterment of the customers.
it cut Jay
Eh, he's had Norton as a sponsor...
@@raven4k998 There is no pc work without subconscious blood sacrifice to the computer gods. This Is The Way.
@@Xerou well you sacrificing a virgin to the blood gods makes them very very happy and they give you the best when you find and give them a virgin just make sure your victim is a virgin because if they aren't you'll get screwed big time by the blood gods they do not like fake virgin sacrifices so do your home work when selecting the target sacrifice to the blood gods💀💀
@@jameslawrence8734at one point yes but not anymore tho
Sending the side panels with sharp edges instead of rounding them is pretty shitty.
If you can take the time to cut holes into the panel you can round the edges with a router.
I was thinking the same. I didn't know this company before, but if anyone would ask me, I would suggest against that brand. Like if the rads and power-supply choking off due to the glass panel was not bad enough, if you ask for their freaking acrylic replacement they are not able to have the holes at the right places, nor rounding the edge, when they freaking know that this panel goes to a reviewer.
Well, at least there was one thing right with that build, the original look. This is basically the only reason to pay that 4000$, since you get no gain at all, you pay for a piece of arts.
They can't even cut the holes in the right spot. Bold of you to expect them to round the edges. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂
If you think about the Air Flow Engineering that went into Falcon Northwest to do what they do with their form factor type set ups... there is absolutely no excuse as to why an 8000 dollar set up can't have premium air flow out of the box. So I'm with you, Jay.
There is a video on this channel from 5 years ago with an Aventum X fans shoved against a solid glass panel. Digital Storm ain't changing this.
That is my main complaint, Jayz’s complaints about the system were simply the latest in a several year long streak of the exact same issues
So fun fact from a random person on the internet. I almost worked for digital storm, I went in for an interview to get the position of computer assembly tech. I was told later they never intended hiring me in that position (they also had me build a computer for them to "test" me) and instead wanted me in customer service. I immediately told them no thank you as that seemed pretty scummy to me, and left.
The owners only want "familiar faces" to do benchwork.
Dogshit company. You got lucky. After my experience I never want to deal with them again.
@@poitiers2853just say what you mean by familiar faces
@@DaveBotDesign please do tell
Oopsie doopsie 😅 .
I would love to see what GN Steve would say about this case, my god.
oh I guarantee that Steve would be having a nuclear meltdown on camera.
High key I wanna see this too. Especially after how damning the Corsair build vid was XD
@@RibombeeTeacher Ikr? Steve absolutely should review one of these.
@@SovietsniperYT I would feel bad for Steve and the team to spend their money on this though XD especially given how particular GN is
If Jay inflicted a mortal wound, Steve probably gonna bury it.
"Acrylic scratches like crazy" - yes....
Also - protective film used on car windshields can also be applied to acrylic panes.... and they will mitigate most of the problems....
What kind of film? As a window tinter who installs all sorts of different applied adhesives, you would have to use a specific blister free film on any kind of acrylic/plexiglass before you can apply film made for glass. The film will just roll off in a month or two if not. The blister free film is super thin and has no durability to withstand even the slightest scratch.
Edit: you could try using a clear shield PPF, but I don’t know how well it would stay without adding an extra adhesive to the acrylic side.
You mean like PPF? That could work, but it would be expensive.
I'm convinced at this point, that Digital Storm are entirely incompetent, or are just trolling you with those panels.
it's free real estate
Incompetent and pretentious. 100%
Any shape you can cut in acrylic, you can cut on glass. The problem with tempered glass is that you must cut the holes before tempering the glass. After the glass is tempered, you will shatter it if you try to do any modifications to it.
What about waterjet?
@@sumdude4 I suspect that it'll cut the hole normally but it'd be so fragile that it'd break easily under very light loads which makes it impractical. I might be wrong, I don't have a ton of experience with glass but I've worked with tempered glass before, but not like this. I think the problem is that if it is tempered before the cut then when you do cut the shape out the edges are not tempered the same as they would have been if the cuts had been done before hand. Don't take this as Gospel, I'm just theorizing.
@sumdude4 even water jet would be an issue. Tempered glass is under internal tension and any alteration to it can cause it to just shatter.
@@sumdude4I walked around this exact problem, so I can chime in, and relay what I heard from machinists. WJ will shatter tempered glass, if it hits resonant frequency in it, and it does so pretty frequently, as it's basically hard molecules rubbing against straight edge, it's like a bow on a violin string. When making tool paths for WJ you have to take into account whole shape of the glass at every stage of the process. It's difficult, very, very few people know how to do it correctly, and in general you will hear "no". To add insult to injury, In most cases it breaks right at the end of cutting process, close to separation.
Not entirely trued. Tight corners in glass can cause stress fractures so generally warerjet, drilling and cnc machines use minimum radius in internal corners to reduce stress breakage during toughening.
Size and location is a limitation in glass holes/cutouts.
My brother ordered a pc from them two years ago for $2200. I assumed at that price point even during the gpu apocalypse that the 1660 would atleast have two fan shroud. Nope it was a stock single fan shroud... and the r5 5600x had a stock cooler and would peak 90c often. We've modded plenty since then with a new asus 3070 and a hyper 212 cpu cooler. My complaint is that at the time we didn't know much about pc and we definitely paid $1200 over what we should have for the quality of the build.
yea that's insane, considering you could build that PC for like 300 bucks.
lmao Cooler Master going to drag that Hyper 212 name into the next century!
@@XenonGshe's a beast tho lol
@@turambar304 The design has changed over the years, but they kept the name and even release variants. Main selling point is it can cool around 120 watts more or less and for a very cheap price.
@@XenonG Holy fuck I remember when a quad core processor with a Hyper 212 was in every gaming PC lmao
Ackshually, the lifespan of a capacitor is directly tied to temperature. 60°C inside the PSU over an extended period of time is pretty bad.
How to prevent psu from overheating and how to measure its temp?
Almost like that company doesn’t know anything about building a pc like how do they just ship put these Pcs with all these mistakes like nothing was tested at all
The life of electrolytic caps is directly dependent on the temperature they run at. A psu running hotter will die sooner
10C lower will double the life span IIRC for electrolytic caps
For the price, the chassis better run as a fridge allowing for mind blowing performance. This PC is a disaster.
3:15 That cavitation is also going to erode the impeller blades.
Running air through a water pump is a recipe for disaster.
Every fish tank person knows that xD .
The moral of the story is that just because something very expensive doesn’t mean it’s going to be a very good system to the price going to something like a falcon Northwest which without looking at the website is going to give you a better experience for I’m assuming again, I haven’t checked the prices. I write this a cheaper price, or get a good system from a local company thanks for the information guys
For that markup, they really should have cut, smoothed, and bevelled circular holes in the glass above the fans. Why doesn't anyone do that? It's really expensive. But if your mark-up is 4k, and you're "looks first", then that's the kind of thing I'd expect to see.
they should have never made the side panels the way they did ever. makes no sense. their computers look cool, but have never made sense to me.
25:05 if Jay is crazy here, then 99% of the world is crazy too.
I love it when PCs are works of art but never over performance. I paid around 3K for all of the parts for my latest system and assembled it myself. It’s not perfect but it looks good and I’m happy with it. I wouldn’t be happy if I paid 8K and it was pretty but the parts don’t reach their full potential.
A year ago I spent about $3k for the parts to build a system with a 7800x3d and a 4090. Put an aio on the cpu and 3 fans on the front. GN had a video that showed another fan in the rear of the case I chose made basically no difference in temps. To be clear, if I run the fans at high speeds, I barely leave 40°C on my gpu and stay in the 60's on the cpu. This whole build from digital storm is a joke.
Your parting words were exactly my thoughts. There is no doubt that you and your crew can greatly improve on this set up. I look forward to seeing that.
You can use another piece of acrylic to remove the paper. Acrylic won’t scratch acrylic. I saw that on the five star car audio guys.
You're completely right in your criticizing of the small details. There's a growing trend in this industry where they treat extremely high-priced items like they are budget tier from a startup company *cut to linus saying a 600 dollar card was a budget card*
To sum up...sometimes products are just junk. Always do your research just because something is expensive does not mean it is good.
Jay is one of the few pc reviewers who gives an unbiased opinion ,not one that is paid for or negative to create click bait.
To remove the paper from the acrylic, warm it up with a hair dryer or heat gun. Just don't linger too long on any one spot. It will weaken the bonds in the glue. I usually follow up with hot soapy water to remove any residue.
or just dont add it in the first place?????
@@SnuggleLabes What do you mean?? The acrylic sheets ALWAYS come with protective paper to prevent scratches, they come like that directly from the factory. You're supposed to only remove the protective backing paper just before use.
You can cut holes in tempered glass. It is not recommened however, because it compromises the rigidity of the glass, and most real world applications of tempered glass do not require a hole in it. You would also need to laser cut it, which is super expensive, any mechanical tool would just ruin the glass. Pretty much, you would need to form the glass in that shape in the first place, rather than try to cut holes in it. And there aren't many glass producers making anything other than flat panels. But in the same way that they can shape glass for a particular application for example a Quarter Panel window, vs a Windshield, they can produce the glass in that way as well. They could produce a mold for it and form the glass that way, with holes in it, but again, super expensive, would actually probably be cheaper to laser the holes out.
Literally placed an order for one of these a few years ago, and ended up having to call and cancel cause they couldn't even give me a timely update that my machine was delayed due to back ordered parts.
It was absolutely infuriating, but saved myself a ton of money building my own air cooled system with all the same parts two weeks later 😂
JAY, LET'S KEEP IT A 💯 THOUGH, LET'S FACE IT BROTHER, YOU'RE WAY SMARTER & KNOW YOUR STUFF BETTER THAN DIGITAL STORM.
14:38 protective paper/film or stickers not coming off the glass (acrylic is even worse) are a complete dealbreaker 🤦♂ how hard is it in 2024 to get sticker/paper/film where the glue is not dyring out leaving you rage quitting (and scratching acrylic for sure) while trying to remove it ??? 😡
The process of tempering glass is both it's strength and weakness, I forget the exact science behind it but it's under constant pressure from the tempering process so when you cut into it it'll more than likely pop (shatter) I don't know if you can temper glass AFTER creating the holes or not though.
An afterthought, you should loan this to Gamers nexus for a full range of testing, I would LOVE to see steve tear these guys apart hehe I can just picture him taking one look and going "really?"
You CAN temper odd shapes, but the more holes or irregularities you make in the glass, the more difficult it becomes to successfully temper it (i.e. you're gonna have a % of failures; more wastage which starts to increase the price beyond just the custom cuts).
Also, as interesting as that would be, Steve's not getting any younger - I don't want us to be a contributing factor to him getting an ulcer or something! :D
😂😂good strategy on their side. they're using you as a free consultant.
Free is about all he is worth tbf.
@@jamesbyrd3740Yet you watched it, you sheep
@@nadeatoms I actually just skipped through it. Maybe watched 30 seconds.
@@jamesbyrd3740 Then how did you figure out that the review is bad?
@@Vladislav888 I am just that good.
Of course, you can cut holes in tempered glass. Think about custom shower doors. Holes for the handles. It may have to be thicker than the current side panels to stay safe?
With a dynamic QR code they won’t even need to change the box or add a paper, just change the link to point to the correct video for f#@ks sake!!
OK. So I've googled the difference between dynamic and static QR code now and I'm still clueless about the difference. Static contains either static data or it links you to a landing site, which you can change whenever you want, to whatever you want. A dynamic one does the same? What's the difference and use-case? Or is it simply the classic of "solving a problem that wasn't there to begin with and some marketing diarrhea"?
I'm honestly confused here.
@@maskharat a dynamic QR code is essentially a URL that redirects to another URL, and you can change where it gets redirected to on the fly. static QR code points to a specific webpage, and yes, you are correct that they could change the content of that webpage, but the URL would stay the same and could be confusing if the URL says something different than what's shown on the page.
@@maskharat Dynamic QR is a bad marketing wording for what you just describe. Its not about the QR code itself (which will always point to something precise) but the content behind (you can adjust the content of the link after such change).
Googling "Dynamic QR Code" makes me afraid how little is needed to make a company in this world. You just need better marketing than the competitor xD
how? You'd retroactively change all the links for the right cases as well if it was a matter of printing the wrong code...
@@blackbird42use one landing page where you can choose the option you want to look at
Jay showing his passion for an enthusiast level build and REALLY wants it to be good! Much respect for not pulling any punches on how it should have been built!
You can put holes in a tempered glass pane, I have a deepcool case that has a tempered glass side panel that has 4 screw holes.
I'm not a glass expert, but I assume it's going to cost loads of money, acrylic is way cheaper to buy and laser-cut.
Also, a quick search on google, says that you CAN UV print on acrylic.
I see the vent holes issue on the back side panel, they just cut 2 sheets at once and called it the day, the paper wrapping on the Plexiglas tearing and/or not coming off, in my experience, is usually a sign of cheap acrylic.
It can be done, you'd just have to cut the holes BEFORE the pane of glass gets tempered; given that they probably don't do that in-house, it'd probably increase their costs and hassle to custom order panes from the supplier than just getting simple panes in volume.
As a Glazier, you can cut hole in toughened/tempered glass before it is heat treated (which makes it toughened). You cannot cut or drill holes after the toughening process. So to answer your question, yes you could have a vent in the side of the panel.
To help get old paper protectors off acrylic, there's a couple of tricks.
1. Apply steam _carefully._ - you really don't want the acrylic over 190°f (87.7C) where it begins to soften (and get even easier to scratch) though it won't actually melt until 320°f (160C) so you can't actually damage it though steam alone. The heat will help release the glue, and it'll peel off a lot more easily.
2. -Let rubbing alcohol (isopropyl) soak through the paper to attack the glue. Won't harm the acrylic, but more likely to leave a sticky residue that technique 1 above. Can remove that with some goo gone, or more isopropyl and a paper towel to "pick up" the residue when it's softened again.-
Edit: As @Taurickk pointed out below, Isopropyl will damage acrylic. Kerosene is probably the solvent most likely to attack the glue without damaging the acrylic, but of course is a potential fire hazard, and I'm not sure it would be that effective on the glue anyways. Go with method 1.
Are you sure on that second method? Isopropyl alcohol aggressively attacks acrylic and causes spiderweb cracking and microfractures throughout.
@@Taurickk you are entirely correct. Must have been thinking of another plastic. Isopropyl will make acrylic look cloudy due to micro fractures! Same with methyl and ethyl alcohols as well as acetone, which are other good glue solvents normally. Thank you for pointing out my mistake.
non-acetone nail polish remover is what you are looking for. It's usually the pink stuff. It will remove the glue with no residue, discoloration, or damage to the acrylic. It's also very good for removing paint from acrylic. Best used in a spray bottle.
The beauty of QR codes (or simply hyperlinks in general), assuming you handle URL destinations/redirects/landing page campaigns correctly… is that you can easily fix it after the fact on the fly for QR codes/URLs that have already been published, printed, and distributed.
If I remember correctly, you can technically cut holes in the glass first before the tempering process, but after it's tempered you no longer can cut holes in the glass or it'll shatter.
Exactly - I'm willing to wager that they don't temper the panes themselves, so this would result in making more complicated (and expensive) custom orders from their supplier. It probably would be doable, but it would depend on how much they would be willing to go through for that.
@@empath69 for sure, plus that's more cost on them and the consumer. But who knows
@@ItsVoidion Heck, maybe they have plans to do that with the 'revised' case they're working on now? (which makes it LESS likely they'd start to offer it as a support option to current models)
The more of these videos I see the more I love my Fractal Torrent. It stays cool, it is reliable, it is cheaper, and if a fain fails on any component the system won't overheat and I can just order a new one. I also can't have an air spill if something goes wrong.
10:45 hey, tempered glass expert here. I can confirm that glass is glass and glass breaks.
I understood that reference.
You can UV print on acrylic. It was my job for a number of years. Look up EFI EFIPRO16H. That is what I used. Can handle 10ft 1inch thick Acrylic. Total pain to cut on CNC machine though. The weight alone requires 3-4 people to pick up and move.
14:19 Jay, if you submerge the panel in warm water for about 20 mins that should make it much easier to remove the paper.
Very true.... Yeah but who wants to do that after paying 8 grand, the type of person buying a PC for that kinda dollar...aint gonna be getting his hands wet or scraping off soggy csardboard infused glue for an hour... I dunno, if that was mine, i would not be happy. Ya wanna charge 8 grand, then make it be worth an 8 grand experience...Must do better.... 🤡
Jay, one solution to the acrylic scrathing, going back to the Chieftec cases day... Clear window security film.
Remove the protective film and immediately apply the clear film.
I want to see a video where you bypass the bottom rads and just use the top/front rads. Hits equilibrium faster but ends up cooling the same/better?
I want to see this too
Small Info:
Yes, you can UV-print on acrylic, and basically any other surface, including leather etc.
Best wishes
P.S.: Yes, you can have holes in tempered glass. They have to be cut during manufacturing, before tempering, though. So each glass would be a special order at the plant, making things fairly expensive.
Thermal dynamics in a pc is as important as it is in an I.C.E.
My first PC was from digital Storm I did have to deal with their customer service twice both times they were very helpful and quick my GPU died and they replaced it no issues
Hehehe 8:09 he said “sloppy seconds” tehehe
The easiest solution would be to make a shortened side panel that exposes the fans. Place mounting holes and grommits on the top 3/4ths of the case and mesh out the radiator 1/4th.
They could water jet holes into the tempered glass. Or, as others have stated in other comments, cut the holes first, then temper. Although, I'm not sure how the stresses of the heat-temper cycle would work with the holes in place.
You're right, it would instantly shatter tempered glass. You would have to modify the glass before you temper it.
Why holes in tempered glass? Wouldn’t you want a filter? Which would ruin your fancy holes anyway? Just have tempered glass in the viewing area and mesh with filters in the fan area. Don’t over complicate.
@@Christopher_S I'm guessing you din't know how water jets work? They use a high pressure water stream with an abrasive in it. Cuts through almost anything like butter.
@@mikeford963 I'm guessing you don't know how tempered glass works? Once completed, the sheet is under constant internal tension; makes it resilient to occasional knocks and bumps, but sufficient force that overloads that internal tension results in fracture.
You're proposing to blast what is, essentially, a pressure-sensitive fragmentation bomb with HIGH-PRESSURE WATER; hope you're wearing full-body PPE...or have plenty of antiseptic on hand.
I'm aware how tempered glass works. And I should have asked the wonderful woman that Google is before I posted that. Tempered glass is the exception to the rule of "anything" can be cut with a waterjet.
I work in a large shower glass enclosure manufacturing company. Yes very different than pc glass but really the same concept. You can have holes in tempered glass but you have to create the holes BEFORE you temper. This is hard because you have to have the equipment to not only temper glass (you should see the oven we have, it’s connected to it’s own transformer it pulls so much power and is so big) but also a way to cut the interior of the annealed (not tempered) glass. We use a waterjet CNC that uses high pressure and sand. Recently we’ve upgraded to a vertical milling cnc machine! This uses diamond bits to smooth and make the edges pretty and to do any cut outs inside the glass or outside. Also when you do this there’s alot of weird stresses from the holes in the glass that can happen when tempering that can just make it go pop when it’s cooling in the quench, when you pick it up off the oven, it can even just explode after sitting in the rack for hours.
TL;DR you can absolutely have holes in tempered glass it’s just VERY involved especially mass produced.
Love your stuff Jay!
And Fil, Lol, make a video of the D5 pump
24:50 ...It´s totally reasonable to expect excellence after dropping 8K for a system, and your expectations are nothing but fair when you think that something like this would have better "Everything" compared to a air-cooled potato... what actually doesn´t!!! ...and that´s not acceptable.
Tempered glass, starts out as a sheet of glass. The sheet of glass then goes through heat treatment, with the result being tempered glass. You can design the glass sheet, with holes, engraving, etc before hand. This also increases the price, which is why most panels are just 2 to 4 holes in each corner or have metal plates chemically bonded to them.
This is for all case manufacturers in general, offer case with metal (5-25mm hole size. Panel with 10mm hole size or panel with 20mm hole size) mesh side panels, instead of the glass/plastic. I have quite a few glass and plastic side panels lying around, because of how restrictive they are on air flow.
TEMPERED / TOUGHENED GLASS.
Tempered / Toughened glass starts as regular "float" glass, the same glass you all see break in to massive sharp chunks.
Heating it and rapidly cooling gets it tempered / toughened, which is around 3x stronger than float glass, and highly heat resistant. It is also considered as safety glass due to the fact that it shatters in to tiny pieces of glass. For that reason it is used in automotive applications, and high heat environments. While regular glass is common in home windows, etc.
Since Tempered / Toughened glass starts its life as regular float glass, you can do whatever you want with it during manufacturing. Cutting to shape, drilling holes, making cut outs, polishing external and internal edges, etc... But, once its "toughened", you are unable to do any modifications to the glass which would change the structure of it. This is because toughening process creates surface tension in the glass itself. This surface tension is what gives it 3x strength. And it is also the reason why it explodes if chipped - tension makes it collapse on itself and go poof!
Only small shape alterations can be made to tempered glass, and even then its at a risk of self destruction. You can polish down 1mm or so on the edges. Beyond that - danger zone!
Be aware, handle toughened glass with care, if you bump it on the corner (provided it has no CNC radius) in to something tough like concrete, it will not chip, it will rapidly self-destruct in your hands. Float glass would chip instead.
Tempered / Toughened glass can be laminated, painted, printed via UV inks, sandblasted.
NOTE. Ceramic print is done before toughening process, unlike UV print. This is because the ceramic ink is cooked and becomes one with the molecular structure of the surface of the glass. That is what you see in ovens, windscreen black surrounds, stoves, etc. Highly temp and wear resistant, but limited in colour gamut.
I get the idea that there are two tiers of premium brands. We're talking about Lamborghini or Mansuri level of premiums. Some brands don't want you to worry about anything - they not only value you as their customer, but they also want you to buy their next, often limited, product. Then we have Digital Storm, who know they are "unique" in this segment, their other competitors practice the same services. They know that you can't go anywhere else for this stuff, so they bully you into all sorts of extra costs.
i used to work on a tempering line at a window pane manufacturer in the USA. We had a different section of the factory that cut glass to unusual shapes and with holes in them. We never saw their panes come through the tempering line. I was told that the holes and unusual shapes increased the chance of breaking during the quenching stage substantially so we just didnt offer it as an option. So while i do think it is possible, it would likely be much, much more expensive as they would have to make like 10 or 12 panels so that one would survive the process.
You can’t cut tempered glass, but you can cut glass and THEN temper it.
Cutting holes in the glass, while increasing airflow, would also increase tooling costs.
Anything more than straight lines is much harder to do without shattering.
They should have gone "old school" with the acrylic panels still having the fancy see-through top half, while painting/imprinting the "cyber" graphics over the lower vents, which would have gone well with a fancy hex pattern. Or just showcase a fully painted steel or acrylic panel with integrated vents (which also was old school case design).
In order to get a hole, design or pattern on tempered glass, you would would have to do the work first and *then* temper the glass. By its nature, tempered glass is extremely strong but brittle on the surface due to it being placed under an immense amount of stress. So if there were to be any cuts or defects on the glass after it was tempered, it would shatter.
Yeah, it's like a spring being held under constant tension; if you overcome that...hope you've got full-body covering clothing.
Hi Jay. You can get tempered glass with holes in it. You can't cut holes into tempered glass so they have to be cut/drilled prior to tempering. Once drilled/cut then the glass can be tempered so yes in response to your question it is entirely possible
You need to add water temperature in these tests, because it could come near to 60 C in this system that is close to fittings max temperature
Jay, learned from Steve Builds. The paper on acrylic run a heat gun at a low temp over the paper and it will peel off without ripping.
It is nice that they listened to some parts, but it is concerning that they did the somewhat vented acrylic panel as an afterthought. That's what it seems like, anyways. I do appreciate that they are working on some other stuff.
You don’t need to justify your criticism by the way. You are a reviewer, review without apology. You aren’t a “this sucks” without reason guy. You’ve earned the privilege to just give your honest opinion and let it be.
Made the mistake of buying a high end DS water cooled system and not long after I noticed the plastic tubing leaking due to the fittings overheating and shrinking/molding them to their internal shape. I had to replace the tubing multiple times and the MB fried but at least they fixed it under warranty replacing the board and upgrading the fittings. However due to lack of efficient cooling the problem occurred again. Finally I bought Pyrex tubing that matched the ID and OD of the plastic tubing, cut them to length using a glass cutter and to my surprise, they fit and worked well! Long story short, I ended up getting into DIY custom water loops myself! Rebuilt the whole system custom.
i normally binge watch you when im building a pc then after its built i dont watch much. but seen u have been sick and decided to restart the binge. hope ur getting better big guy my love from scotland
I've been looking at the Aventum X for a couple months now and was fully prepared to purchase once new intel and 50 series came out. But watching these last couple of videos I can definitely say I'm out until there is a drastic redesign of the case style. I'm fully aware of the markup and all, but I'm in a position where that didn't bother me and I LOVE the aesthetic. But like you, Jay, I can't sacrifice performance at the cost of aesthetic. Form. Follows. Function.
I just want to say thank you for being so critical with this setup. You said it best with the comment 8k you tend to expect to be above avg. I have no doubt many people have sent the same concern you have into DS and they just blew them off. So again ty for speaking on our behalf❤ 🍻
Since you mentioned dialing in your testing strategies: I''ve seen der8auer setting fans to a fixed speed based on decibels, saturating the system and then checking for the power draw. To me, that made a lot of sense if you aim for the same DB value for different systems. That way, you could compare which system is able to vent more thermal energy.
In my water cooling setups, I made sure they have plenty of air. I can run my fans at low rpm's and get the temperature differentiation to 3C from low rpm's to full speed. This way, my system runs cool and very quiet. I also use full tower cases (Lian Li PC-V2120's) as I hate cases where you have to cram everything into tiny spaces.
Does the brown paper protective layer on the acrylic have glue which is water soluble? 🙂🤷♂️
The whole design especially the cooling is just wrong. For that system cost it should be far better at cooling the GPU (and CPU) than it is.
They share your passion Jay but their top priority is making money for their business owners and shareholders not building PC's.
Build an $8000 PC and lets DS see how it should be done! 🙂
From what I've learned working with tempered glass for furniture applications is that you can cut holes through the glass, though it needs to be at a minimum twice as wide/twice the diameter of the glass' thickness. Any cut-out should not exceed 1/3 of the overall width of the panel. You'll also need to leave 2x the glass' thickness gap away from the edge to the start of any cut-out. Anything outside of these limits will cause too much internal stress and will eventually (if not immediately) fail. These were the rules used for 8mm thick back painted tempered glass. YMMV for thinner glass, but the principles should be the same.
I had a full glass side panel for my pre-built computer with a 2070 super. Was hitting 83°C while gaming and not boosting as high. I custom made a fiberglass mesh side panel and now it boosts over 1980Mhz and Temps are in the 60°Cs!
A case like this never made any sense to me, a fan should never be up against a solid material. That defeats the entire purpose of the fan!
I custom watercool my rigs because they become a piece of artwork and focal point in the room and not something u want to hide. Any decrease in temps or sound is just a bonus. My new white and purple build is beautiful looking. The same build using air cooling would not look anywhere as good. Also, with the number of radiators, I can set my fans to a much lower rpm, making the system much quieter than an air-cooled rig when the fans ramp up as the system gets hotter.
Haha there is a technique to pull the paper off without it tearing even when the paper is older! we do a lot of acrylic cutting at work, and you get good at removing paper and plastic coverings.
The best case design thermally is double exhaust radiators(front&top) 1 rad for gpu 1 rad for cpu, 100% hot air out, lots of intake mesh on bottom/side/back. Interior temp is then simply ambient.
yes you can cut holes in tempered glass, they may have to make it thicker if what it comes in is to thin to support the holes.
A couple of things I noticed in the video. ?Their response for filling did not say to allow it to suck in air. I know your knowledge tells you that is an issue but these kinds of documents are not written for each configuration, they are written for general application. They need to have something specific for this pump combo due to the high fluid pumping capacity. Also the person writting you the response may not be water cooling or even computer type. That would be the only reason I could think of for why thy wouldnt know about the jumper. Finally the acrillic panels are from atleast the open side of the work station. If you look at the demo model on their site you will see the lower holes are for the fans and the higher ones are from the gpu stack. I do not see a photo of the back site. I think they just sent 2 of the open side panels as they would work.
Enjoy the videos keep it up.
You can get holes in tempered glass, the glass panels you got originally have holes in them for the mounting hardware. The holes have to be cut in the glass before it’s tempered though
I really appreciate these videos your team does Mr. 2cents.
In my opinion, if you're a company that creates computer cases and you ship a product that has no airflow for a good portion of the cooling rads; that is disqualifying and I can't buy any of your products because I've seen the proof that you do not have the knowledge to do the basics or you don't care.
Digital storm has been around a long time so there is no excuse for not knowing that airflow is important. So I'm glad they are changing the design but for this potential customer the damage is done.
P.S. the Aventum looks great visually
10:03 i have literally just spent the last few minutes thinking you should make a video with this exact point. Re-run your standard cooling test with the original panels on, then remove the bottom 2 rads and run the test with only the top 420 (with original panels on) and compare. is your gut accurate and would you actually get better cooling with only the 420 than with everything?
Hey, Jay, I run a UV printing business. Acrylic can absolutely be printed on. Maybe if they did a 1/2 upper glass door and did a lower UV printed acrylic panel with drilled out vent holes?
It's not just that you are paying for parts you don't need, it's that you are also paying for needlessly greater complexity in the system which in turn increases the risk of failure. I like the metal frame idea. Back panel fan cut outs be like 🤔. Thanks Jay!
Ooooooooo! If you could set up a time lapse of system running, starting off fully cool, let whole case be in frame and let run to see the heat build!!!! That would be awesome to watch heat up! Am glad for all the good and bad going on here! Very down to earth and not so 'smart' ppl won't get what you are saying! Thank you guys for being you!!!!!!
with a thermal camera, I assume?
Great vid follow-up and thanks for mentioning the iCue gpu temp fan curve option vs Aura Sync. Gtk!
Tempered glass is processed through controlled thermal or chemical treatments to increase its strength. This process makes it much harder than regular glass.
You can cut regular glass but use scotch tape as the barrier to stop any shattering, i am a stained glass artist and there are circular tools for cutting glass circles out.
Just for the fun of it screen mesh for a window or a sliding door would probably be cheaper for a roll versus what they're charging just for shipping
Also $8,000 For A PC Woo...
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Yes, you can etch (don't remember what the technical term is) holes in tempered glass. The issue would be shipping it, it would be more fragile (especially around the thinner areas ofc). I used to purchase glass for slot machines and we would purchase tempered glass from our vendors with beveled windows etched into them.
There's probably significantly better equipment for it these days (this was 20ish years ago); they would submerge a piece of pre-cut tempered glass and use a CAD program to essentially sand blast the windows out and that process also etched the edges to make them safe from cut hazards.