Now that your shop is no longer at your house, it's time to order up TWO complete setups; points, condenser, cap and rotor, and keep one setup at each place. Or, buy just one set and keep it in the rpu, in a zip lock bag under the seat. I get that you want to run points....but don't let yourself be caught without spare parts. Another plan would be to build up a spare distributer, complete with all new parts, and carry that in the truck as a spare....
Get an empty paint can from Home Depot and fill it 1/3 of the way with lacquer thinner. Pop the lid off, stick the mixer in and spin it. Cover it back up when you're done. I'll use that can for general cleaning and refill it as needed so it never gets too old/dirty. Wouldn't work for a full time painter, but my gun only comes out a handful of times a year.
You can check the condenser ( capacitor) with a Volt Ohm Meter . Put the meter on Resistance and put on lead on the wire and the other on the case . If it deflectors he the meter and stays it is good.
So turn the motor to open the points, connect a voltmeter across the wired contact to ground, you should see battery voltage, if no then disconnect the condenser and re check, if you see volts then, that tells you the condenser is shorted
Now, you know that you need to have any "twist" across the door adjusted so it lands nice and flat BEFORE YOU WELD any of that hem to the interior. Welding the hem "finishes" the box so it,, in effect "locks" the shape/twist of the door for keeps. Why not correct the bottom of that "B" pillar so that any "correct" door will provide the correct gap down that side and close properly ?? Those look GORGEOUS !!!! 👍👍👍👍
...hey Jacob good to see you youngman....the doors look nice, nice....shoot epoxy into the wood and draw in with screws or clamps....you can remove the screws later.... I'd reset the b pillar an eighth inch....
Probably the rotor wasn't all the way pressed on. It happens. Be sure to check the cap inside that it didn't get cracked. I always keep spare parts under the seat in my Model A. You never know when they will take a spell.
It was obvious in the last episode , that the car was not firing on all cylinders. Seems perverse to run points when you have an electronic ignition, which is maintenance free.
Make yourself flat upper and lower dies out of Delron for your pullmax. Hem your edges with them. Waaaay Easier way faster and very clean doesn’t get all tooled up like the door skin hammer can tend to.
Meat u need to get some paint sticks for the outside door skin when u clamp it on 2 stop the little dents and dins, you forgot to straighten the windows channels looks good.
I'm 64 years old and just for your information I grew up with cars that had points and condenser most people that drove their cars every day tune them up once a year and replace points and condensers and clean or replaced spark plugs be sure those cars got them to work
It could be the rotor grounding (now i see that it broke, it must have been cracked and that carried the spark to ground) out or the pigtail wire is broken.
Check the distributor cap for carbon tracing inside the cover. If so, ya got a cracked cap. The carbon tracing allows the current flow to ground and not the spark plug. General cause of misfiring when all other troubleshooting fails.
Hate to be a copycat, but you should carry spares,(points, condenser, cap and rotor) . I carry the above in my 72 Olds, also have a coil. Back when I drove my 57 Chevy wgn I carried a complete dist and generator. Gen needed slot in rear for P.S. pump, not an easy find when broke down.
You’ve said in the past that knowledge of the V/8 engine is not your strong suit ……Your cars as well as your customer car all are being built with that same thought process……! SO why not try to move into the 20th century with maybe a rebuilt Chevy 265 or 283 and still retain the look as nostalgia but have the realiable nostalgia look that your not getting from those flathead DOORSTOPS..!
Great work on the doors! Incredible amount of work! Go RAC Garage, keep moving forward!
Travis- your channel has become my go-to channel. When you post, I’m there! Glad you post most every day.
Now that your shop is no longer at your house, it's time to order up TWO complete setups; points, condenser, cap and rotor, and keep one setup at each place. Or, buy just one set and keep it in the rpu, in a zip lock bag under the seat. I get that you want to run points....but don't let yourself be caught without spare parts.
Another plan would be to build up a spare distributer, complete with all new parts, and carry that in the truck as a spare....
Practice makes perfect and you nailed it awesome work 👏👏👍🏼
Love your content, wish you the best Travis, you're so fortunate to have a wife that has the same passion as you... keep up the great c work
Get an empty paint can from Home Depot and fill it 1/3 of the way with lacquer thinner. Pop the lid off, stick the mixer in and spin it. Cover it back up when you're done. I'll use that can for general cleaning and refill it as needed so it never gets too old/dirty.
Wouldn't work for a full time painter, but my gun only comes out a handful of times a year.
bent coat hanger works great with a drill
That dent in the tailpan is clearance for the gas filler neck on a stock ‘32 gas tank.
Doors are looking very good Travis and good saving the floor Nice work
You can check the condenser ( capacitor) with a Volt Ohm Meter . Put the meter on Resistance and put on lead on the wire and the other on the case . If it deflectors he the meter and stays it is good.
Jacob in the house !! Perfect fit ! Was there any doubt !?
So turn the motor to open the points, connect a voltmeter across the wired contact to ground, you should see battery voltage, if no then disconnect the condenser and re check, if you see volts then, that tells you the condenser is shorted
Now, you know that you need to have any "twist" across the door adjusted so it lands nice and flat BEFORE YOU WELD any of that hem to the interior. Welding the hem "finishes" the box so it,, in effect "locks" the shape/twist of the door for keeps.
Why not correct the bottom of that "B" pillar so that any "correct" door will provide the correct gap down that side and close properly ?? Those look GORGEOUS !!!! 👍👍👍👍
...hey Jacob good to see you youngman....the doors look nice, nice....shoot epoxy into the wood and draw in with screws or clamps....you can remove the screws later.... I'd reset the b pillar an eighth inch....
Man those doors look nice Travis 👍 fantastic job as always
Probably the rotor wasn't all the way pressed on. It happens. Be sure to check the cap inside that it didn't get cracked. I always keep spare parts under the seat in my Model A. You never know when they will take a spell.
It was obvious in the last episode , that the car was not firing on all cylinders. Seems perverse to run points when you have an electronic ignition, which is maintenance free.
Thanks for another , Brother !
Make yourself flat upper and lower dies out of Delron for your pullmax. Hem your edges with them. Waaaay Easier way faster and very clean doesn’t get all tooled up like the door skin hammer can tend to.
Meat u need to get some paint sticks for the outside door skin when u clamp it on 2 stop the little dents and dins, you forgot to straighten the windows channels looks good.
I'm 64 years old and just for your information I grew up with cars that had points and condenser most people that drove their cars every day tune them up once a year and replace points and condensers and clean or replaced spark plugs be sure those cars got them to work
It could be the rotor grounding (now i see that it broke, it must have been cracked and that carried the spark to ground) out or the pigtail wire is broken.
Check the distributor cap for carbon tracing inside the cover. If so, ya got a cracked cap. The carbon tracing allows the current flow to ground and not the spark plug. General cause of misfiring when all other troubleshooting fails.
doors look great thanks
Knock on wood, my stromberg e fire has been flawless for 2,000 miles with noble speed wires and the same coil
Nice score on the floor
Hate to be a copycat, but you should carry spares,(points, condenser, cap and rotor) . I carry the above in my 72 Olds, also have a coil. Back when I drove my 57 Chevy wgn I carried a complete dist and generator. Gen needed slot in rear for P.S. pump, not an easy find when broke down.
Good work 😅
Is that grill shell clear coated?
Nice-NICE!
Hemmings
.....super glue....maybe you got poor gear shaft alignment....😮....get a shop fan to help ventilation put at door
You’ve said in the past that knowledge of the V/8 engine is not your strong suit ……Your cars as well as your customer car all are being built with that same thought process……! SO why not try to move into the 20th century with maybe a rebuilt Chevy 265 or 283 and still retain the look as nostalgia but have the realiable nostalgia look that your not getting from those flathead DOORSTOPS..!