Just re shafted my clubs this video help out a lot. Couple things that worked great for me, use a candle in glass jar and set the hosel over flame to heat epoxy if you don't have torch (mine ran out of fuel half way through) the other is place ferrule in hot water, and shaft tip in ice water if you have trouble getting ferrule on
very nice shop, i noticed that, my career was over 45 years in the elevator trade , instructor also, for apprenticeship young mens, step by step is very importnant, thank you sir
Thanks for the thorough explanation; planning to re-shaft my irons over the winter. Your clubs look great, good choice to go without the shaft labels imo. Great job!
Absolute Guns strong 💪 at 17²¹...😂 Great video(all your videos), I'm taking on this project as we speak... brand new to the club building game!! You the man!!
Thanks you for this. Following your instructions I put new shafts on my irons super easy and fun. Using the calculator they all came out D2-D3. I know the calculations aren't perfect but for at home DIY I am super happy! Thanks again
I made a mock grip with 4 wraps of tape. Had to add brass tip weights to every shaft (they got really head light) to dial in the swing weights. I found it difficult to get the exact swing weight for each club. There all right around a D2ish. First time ever building my own clubs. It was a long process for me. Your video was definitely helpful.
Cool video. If you take a piece of fishing line and run it over the end of the tip then slide the head on It will be a nice tight friction fit so the head won’t fall off while swing weighing. If that makes sense.
I've seen that trick from a Mizuno video I believe. I think McGolf also uses it for frequency matching. For me in the time it takes to get the fishing line cut and lined up, I can have already weighed out 3 clubs, but if you're worried about dropping a pristine new head on the ground, I can see the appeal.
Thank you. This was very useful. I’m thinking of doing my own club building and this really helped my understanding of what is involved. I look forward to watching some of your other videos.
this helps me a lot because I am designing my own golf irons and I wanted to know what the process was like so i can get the dimensions for the hozel to line up with assembling the ferrule and shaft
Wow awesome, i can only hope all club builders are as meticulous as you. I dropped my clubs off to pga superstore to get reshafted and I hope they follow all your steps!
I just reshafted a friend’s new Bettinardi wedges. That glue was tough to break. I started with my heat gun but gave up and used the torch. And I always use my shaft puller.
Depending on what heads you are using, you might want to watch this video also. Some Callaway hosels require a bit more work to get a good fit. ua-cam.com/video/eSdutT5NU40/v-deo.html
@@EFGMC it was fun! I reshafted two 6-irons to try the graphite shafts, and I have to say- it was much more straight forward than I thought it would be. I really enjoyed doing the work on my own clubs. Thanks!
This is a great video, really informative! definitely feel more confident taking on a project like this. the only question I have, is if you want to have the grips aligned with the club face, what is the best way to make sure they are aligned?
Hello AJ, i just put new grips on my irons this week. These ole irons had some mild surface rust so I've cleaned them properly but i did leave the old titlest stickers on them should i remove those old stickers off for the cleaner look You mentioned this at the end of your tuterial here now the little light is going off should i take them off they are peeling a bit
Greetings, should all irons have the same swing weight? And which would be the most recommended for the Mizuno MP52 with a shaft of approximately 60g? Thanks. If I lived near your workshop, I'm sure you would work on my clubs only you 💪💪💪
Nice job, great video and well explained. If I wanted to do this myself what tools are must haves and what ones are nice to have but not absolutely necessary? Thank you!
great work! i like the shaft label for looks and identification for future owners. i prefer to have the label where you can see it, rather than hiding on the bottom. personally i don't want a swing weight more than d2, but with a 120 gram shaft, probably could not tell. i wonder about orientation of shaft seam, since you have the ability to go a little beyond standard manufacturing techniques.
Thanks for watching. I don't believe that aligning the shaft in specific orientations is of any discernible benefit so I don't do it. But if you have the means to identify and feel it's a benefit, then I say go for it. I just would never pay for it.
Damn KBS and their higher balance points. Those are some decent tips you're inserting. Had the same issue with mine. I also had to deal with going 1/4 in shorter. Great video
Yeah, I feel your pain. Those were 10g weights I used in about half the heads. I like the KBS Tour shaft but it's a PIA when it comes to swing weight. Just went with Nippon with my new build b/c I knew they are tip heavy by comparison.
Great Video; I like the part where you say you get restless and bored. I see why you are so good at what you do. I love trying new things, but I try not to overdo it. I have a few very complacent friends; their game never changes; they get excited when they have a fair game, low mid 90's lol; they wonder why I don't play with them anymore.
very nice job and thanks for the easy explanation ,I am thinking to switch my from steel to graphite ,one question how I know the size of the tip most of the shafts I see said .370 size I want the weight 70 grams , can you recomend a website to buy them by the way my iron are cobra F max .Thank for you time
I would look at Golfworks. Lots of shafts, also have a table that tells you the recommended replacement shafts for most any irons. This includes giving you the specs including whether the heads are .370 or .355 Pretty sure yours are .370
Great Job I tend to use an old grip which is slit all the way down to put on the shaft when checking the swing weight. Also some of your tip weights looked large what swing weight did they end up at when finished? thanks
I use the slit grip method sometimes, just have to be careful that the shaft doesn't start cutting into the grip cap and throw off the weight. SW on these came out to D3. These heads were all quite light to start with. Thanks for watching. Sorry for the slow reply. These youtube comments don't always alert me when they show up.
I don't have a full list of what I use though I do cover it in some videos. Might try this one where I did the build with only basic everyday tools. ua-cam.com/video/rwKquntylmM/v-deo.html
Graphite tip weights have narrow stems to fit inside the graphite vent hole. However some shafts have very narrow vent holes and will need to be drilled a bit more.
Those shafts look awesome! Nice work. I'm changing parallel to taper tip shafts. First time switching shafts. So, if I've got this correct I need to use a shim? Do I always need a tip weight? -I don't have a swing weight scale.
Yes to the shims. If you are concerned about the swing weight, you can dry fit the club together before epoxying and use an online SW calculator or app to get a very good idea what the SW will be. Just make sure you measure accurately and the calculator will be very good.
Thanks for all your videos! Awesome! Just a quick question from your expertise, I have just re shafted my son ( he is 16, +1 hdcp), we have gone from the Nippon Pro Modus 105 (s) to the Dynamic Gold Tour issue (120 gram S400), to keep the flight down a little lower. When pulling out the shafts we notice a brass weight on the bottom, the manufacture said keep them in however now the swing weight has gone from D2 to D5/6. What are you thoughts? I thought maybe Iet him hit a few and see what he says and then maybe have to take all the heads off again and take out the weight, but before I do that I thought I would ask the expert. Thanks!
That heavier shaft will add swing weight so the brass weights are likely not necessary. You might need different weights to ensure all the irons SW out similar but will need smaller weight ones for that.
Thanks AJ, I think I will let him hit one first and then if need be, I will have to take the heads all off again :-(. Although I think SW is a matter of feel, definitely the overall mass has increased with the heavier shaft. Cheers@@EFGMC
Hi, just a tip from me, instead of putting shaft together with rubber band, have a few grips (used, cheaper, in different models/weight ) which are cut open. Then you just put it on the shaft and sits perfectly when meassuering swingweight! When assembling clubs i like to spine shafts and afterwards put head on using a fishing line to find where it needs to sit to go straight trought the ball. I tried a trackman test before and after spining shafts and it does affect dispersion. The longer the club the more impact it has. Otherwise great videos, thanks.
I used cut grips for a long time but then was told it can lead to inconsistent shaft depth and length since the steel shafts start to cut into the rubber over time. Also it just gives an approximation of the weight, which can be off spec by a gram or more besides just stock weights all being slightly different. My way, at least I know the weight is right on. Though honestly, either method probably gets the same result within 1 SWP so I say do whatever you prefer. Won't get into the spining.😁 If it works for you and as long as you aren't paying someone $30 per shaft to do it, I have no problems with it. Thanks for watching!
Amazing! Thank you! Question, the small brass looking dowels that you slid into the end of the shafts right after applying the epoxy, just before you slid the new shaft into the club head, are those weights? Did they come with your new shafts? The black nickeled finish looks so good!
Hi, A great, easy to follow video. Searching all over the web for this question and no luck.... Have you or anyone you know reshafted the TM Sim irons? I’m asking as I’m trying not to run into any surprises along the way. That happened with the Ping G700’s. Pings used to be soooo easy. Not so much anymore. Actually had to send back to Ping... $$$ Thanks and glad I came across your site
I haven't done any Sims. M5 is the most recent I've done. No issues there. Have not heard of any weirdness with the Sim. Would recommend just pulling one iron head for inspection before getting into the whole set. If you see anything odd, let me know.
Thank you so much for not only the reply, but a fast one!! Some of the online bigger golf stores should take notice of excellent customer service like this.
Sometimes but it takes a lot of extra care to not damage them during the breakdown phase. Also if they are on graphite shafts, then no. Personally it's almost never worth the effort to save them unless you have no other option.
If you are removing the grips with compressed air, remove the grips before removing the heads. If you remove the heads first the air will blow through the open shaft tip and not push the grip off.
Can you do a video replacing old Big Bertha bore through graphite shafts with new ones? I may have bitten off more than I can chew with this project. Need some help.
Those just have a couple extra steps. I don't have a set available to do a demo on. The main differences are you will need to sand down the shaft tips a bit because the hosels taper in at the bottom a little. Hand sand them until they just pass though the hole in the sole. Obviously one side of the shaft will be sticking further through because of the angle. Just make sure that the shaft is at least even with the sole on the short side. Epoxy as with any club remembering to wipe off the sole in addition to the hosel. Once dry, sand down the graphite tip until it's flush with the sole. Next you need to buy some graphite shaft pins. You will need to epoxy these into the hole in the shaft as a separate step. Once dry you can cut off the excess with clippers or a hack saw. Again sand it down and then some light finishing sand paper and acetone wipe like you would with a ferrule. That's it.
Great video, love the level of detail and pacing. I'm in the planning stage of reworking a set of MP-18 MMCs but I don't have them in hand. Do you happen to know the BBGM (bottom bore to ground measurement) on these? It's the difference between the cut shaft length and the assembled playing length. Thanks!
@@EFGMC Thanks! I'll probably keep the same shafts (C-Taper Lite S) but at the moment I'm just playing with a couple swing weight and MOI calculators to see how they flow into my wedges (Glide Forged with KBS Tour S). I've got the wedges taken apart here but the irons are in FL. Using your head weights as placeholders, but I know I'll have to actually take them apart eventually to get them accurate. Thanks again.
Yeah, I always default to simple when it comes to aesthetics. Logos down, plain black ferrules, single sight line putters. Boring stuff but less distracting for me.
For steel, coarse to medium grit sand paper works great, just takes a bit of time. For graphite, again you can use medium grit, or use a utility knife blade as a scraper, angle the blade towards you and scrape away from you so you aren't cutting into the shaft, just scraping off paint.
You are brave to do the video un a nice Polo. I've ruined many shirts when putting on grips and the solvent squirts back on my shirt and seems almost always to happen when I forget to put on the apron. Well done video keep em coming.
I always do a side step when installing grips for just that reason. Also try and go smooth with it to lower the pressure so it doesn't spray out like a fire hose.
Thank you for the video. My only question I have.. I noticed you did not perform a shaft spine alignment. Is spine alignment recommended or is a hoax? I appreciate your comment.
I think that if a shaft needed alignment you probably shouldn't be using that shaft. I've done a number of videos testing between PURE or Spine or FLO vs not and have yet to see any results that proves it's value.
Aj, great video. Straight forward layman approach instead of the usual engineering talk that lulls you asleep halfway through. How did you know your heads were light? Is there a book that lists the club weight from manufacturers?
It can be hard to find exact specs and the OEM websites will not have them but you can usually find some different charts online or look at some component club brands (like Maltby who shows the head weights) to get an idea where the weight should be for a blade style or GI iron.
great video, thanks, going to build my sons Apex 19s this week. You didnt go into detail about tip weighting however, or it wasn't shown. Where does the label go traditionally when rotating the shaft once its been glued in? thanks
Tip weighting basic rule is 2 grams per 1 swing weight point change. I like to weigh all the heads first and check if they have a constant 7g change. That gives a good indication of how much weight I might need to add to get everything in line. If you are talking about the graphics on the shaft, you can align them however you choose. I always default to logo down. If you are talking about shaft band stickers, they usually go an inch or so below the grip.
I like this video very much, just one question: you had to use very large tip weights to balance the clubs. Is a weight at this size not affecting the feel at impact? I am asking because I should do the same, and I am thinking about let the lead tape behind the middle of the club like I did try out for the real feel.
Hi AJ, I really like my G425 irons, but as age has crept up with me so has my swing speed slowed down. Question here, it possible to re shaft my irons with a senior flex graphite shafts? I made a mistake many many years ago and sold my Wilson Staff (stiff) blades and bought Ping Zing 2 irons with Reg shafts instead of re shafting and I don’t want to make the same mistake again.
Great videos. I like the way you simplify the process. And here's my question. I'm thinking about taking a set of irons and making a one length set out of them. I see lots of videos about finding the spine of the shaft and F.L.O. checking. Do I really need to find the spine if I line the head up correctly oriented to oscilation?
Thanks for watching. There are various viewpoints on Spine, FLO, PURE etc. My take (and I am planning some videos on the subject) is it does not matter if a shaft is oriented or not. Two main reasons. First, the shaft is bending not in a single plane, but in countless planes as it rotates during the swing so trying to align a shaft in any one orientation disregards all the other ways it bends during the swing. Second, if a shaft is "round" and bends the same around it's circumference, alignment is not going to benefit you. If a shaft is out of round to a point where say logo up produces a stiff equivalent flex but logo 90 degrees from there produces an R flex, that shaft is junk and should never have made it out of the factory. All that being said, if you are doing it yourself and not paying for it, then I say go for it if it gives you more confidence. As far as which direction to install if you do, some people will say with spine pointing on target line and some will say at 12 o clock position. I think more people lean towards the 12 o clock method but again I don't believe in it myself so don't have a dog in that fight.
@@EFGMC Thank you very much for the response. So, I guess I'll go for it. I'll try to match swing weights and see how well, or not so well, it works. Again, thank you. I look forward to seeing more of your videos on this subject.
To answer your question about Spine and FLO aligning the shaft, I would have to say after 17 years of doing both on ALL of my clubs and any I build for customers, I would NEVER think to play a club that I did not do the Spine and FLO alignment work on the shafts. Does it make a difference? YES IT DOES. To prove my statement, let me tell you a story of when I was looking to buy a used driver to re-build for myself. I found two drivers, exact same make and model, same factory shaft, same flex. Only difference was one driver the head looked like new, the other the head had a number of clips broken off the paint on the crown of the head. Well used to say the least. I decided to hit both on a launch monitor to see how they felt and performed. The driver with the like new head was terrible. EVERY ball I hit I hit a big fat SLICE with it. The driver with the well worn head, I hit it DEAD STRAIGHT and long. Same drivers remember. The worn driver was $20 cheaper that the like new one, but the worn one performed well and the pretty one was terrible. Maybe that's why the pretty one was still pretty, it never to use because it didn't perform. So I decided to buy both to see what I could do with the pretty one to get it to perform like the ugly one. I pulled the shaft from the pretty one, did a Spine and FLO alignment job on it and then re-installed it in the head and put the grip back on. Went back to the store and re-tested the pretty one on the monitor and this time I could hit it just fine. NO SLICE this time, just nice straight and long drives like the ugly one I tested. Bottom line here. SAME shaft, Spine and FLO aligned, it the same head, same grip, went from a nasty SLICE to a nice straight and long drive. Does Spine and FLO alignment make a difference. I'LL LET YOU DECIDE. IF you would like more prove, I can give you lots of cases where doing the Spine and FLO alignment work did wonders for the performance of the clubs.
@@donfisher6659 I'm definitely interested in learning more about this before I start this build. I'd like to speak with you about it, if possible. If you're on FB, my profile is under my name and the profile pic is of my business Reaper Arsenal-South. I look forward to hearing from you.
@@jasoncampbell501 I'd be happy to talk to you about how important Spine and FLO alignment of the shaft is to how the club will perform when it is assembled. I looked on FB and found LOTS of Jason Campbells but not you as far as I could tell. I do have a FB account and you can find me under Don Fisher. I'm in Aurora, Colorado. I'm NOT a big user of FB and have only used it once or twice since I signed up to make a friend happy. Maybe YOU can find me on FB and get it touch with me so we can talk.
It seemed you used, Acetone & then Grip Solvent in the end for polish? Is that correct? Also seemed you used Grip Solvent when wiping down shaft after installation, is that also correct? Thanks!
I haven't done shafts in 20 years but the process still looks the same. The bead additiive to the epoxy does looke different and I always used double sided tape for grips. Is that not the case anymore?
Yes, the correct size shaft should touch the bottom of the hosel. Usually it's around an inch to 1 1/4 deep. If the shaft is getting stuck and not bottoming out, you might have the wrong diameter shaft, need to further clean out the hosel to remove debris, or ream out the hosel to enlarge the opening (last resort).
I'm hitting Taylormade burner clubs that are stiff shafts. I am considering re-stafting them. My question is, since they are several years old are they worth re-shafting? My age is becoming a factor also. Your opinion would be welcomed.
Hi After weighing my iron heads, i have noticed the 4 iron at 251g and the 5 iron head at 254g. Is a 3g difference normal in the long irons? as the 5 iron to pw are 7g increments..Or would you ad 4g weight to the 5 to pw so the 4 to pw would have 7g difference throughout the set? Recoil ESX 480 F4 shafts to be fitted.. Thanks...Nick..
Always easier to add weight than take it away. I think some long irons will be lighter because the manufacturer builds them on longer shafts than the standard 1/2 inch progression.
I forgot to mention that the 4 iron is a Callaway UT Apex CB model and appears to have a much thicker sole than the 5 iron..Do I need a 7g weight difference between these irons or shall I just make do with the 3 grams difference and build the clubs? Thanks....@@EFGMC
They are supposed to be installed so the PURE mark sits in 12 o'clock position though some people will say it should be at 3 o'clock. If it's me, I'd tell you it doesn't matter and not worth the money on future builds.
I recently ordered some steelfiber shafts for my set of ZX5's and am super excited. I contacted my local big box golf retailer and seems pretty affordable to do a reshaft for my irons. I'm afraid if I go with them, they will not be as detailed, particularly with the weighting, and that I'll end up with some mismatched weighting (PW-D1, 9i-D4, 5i-C7... you catch my drift). Do you or anyone else have any input on this?
Any big box store will be a roll of the dice as to what you will get. Might get someone good, might not. I can tell you that they don't pay attention to SW. They are only going to just glue and go. If you want it done right you need to find an independent club builder or you can ship them to me! If you are interested in that, just email me. aj@smartstake.com
I have a set of Ping G430 irons with Nippon Pro Modus 105 stiff shafts and a set of Srixon ZX5 MKII with KBS Tour Lite regular shafts. Would it be possible to swap these shafts over?
Yes, you could swap those two setups. Everything would fit without issue. The Pings are tricky to deal with compared to the Srixon heads, but other than that.
38.5 is the playing length so you would measure from the base of the club head hosel up the back of the shaft to 38.25 inches. The grip will give you the final .25 inches.
Question about a build for a competitive Jr golfer (59 inches tall) transitioning into adult clubs. Looking to put some used recoil ES 460 F2 into my old TM PSI irons. Your video here shows most of the basics of removing my steel shaft and other videos on prepping you use shaft. Any thoughts on adjusting the swing weight since I'm going to have to cut the length of the shaft down a bit as well. Thanks!
I would probably suggest putting one club together first (6,7, or 8 iron). Guessing you are planning on cutting an inch or so for that 5ft size. Let them swing and hit with that one club at whatever SW it sits at. Don't think it will be too heavy and I personally like a heavier head with junior clubs. As far as being too light, see how it feels for them and how consistent the strike pattern is. Play around with a bit of lead tape need be until you hit that point that feels right and is most consistent for them. Then you can pre weight the rest of the club if they are too light for a cleaner look or just go with the lead tape for the rest.
@@EFGMC I've heard mixed reviews regarding the use of shims but again for a JR golfer that has a 75 mph swing speed I don't think it'd be that big of a deal.
New to golfing. Was gifted some older model Golden bears. One happens to have a iron head separating from shaft so I need to get that fixed. Also started the process of put new grips… the old ones ( originals) are in really bad shape. Your videos gave me lots of hope to get that # 4 iron fixed. Thanks for the video 👍
Hello. Nice video. I'm more and more interested to build my own set. But I wonder : swingweight is a static measurement, while MOI is a dynamic one. So, I start to think that it's better to have the same MOI on every club than the same weight.
Some people agree with you. I have done sets using MOI matching and personally never found a benefit from it for myself but I know others who like that feel. The simple way to do it is progressively SW the set going .6 SWP (swing weight points) per iron going heavier from long iron to short.
Thanks for the question. If you want to find the spine of a shaft yourself and orient it a certain way, I won't try and stop you. I don't believe there is value is doing so and I would certainly never pay someone else to do it for my clubs. People have differing views on this topic but I will always be against it. I've done a few different videos about SST PURE and why I don't think it works. Might check those out if you want more detailed reason why I don't agree with it.
@@EFGMCim not really good in english, so if i understand you say is not neccesary to no the spine on the shaft? Do you think you can make video about it , to explain your position ?
I don't recommend use a drill with sandpaper, the best way is a bottoming ream to the exact size of the hole. If you know the size of the hole then purchase a bottom ream that size. It will clean it out without any problems.
I recall from some of your vidz you like a 7g difference between clubs in total weight. Does that hold true for AMT shafts too or should i just focus on the swing weight? I’m planning on installing AMT White S300 shafts in a set of T200 iron heads to play around…my gamers are T100S irons with Project X LZ 6.0 shafts…
The 7g rule is based off the assumption you are stepping in 1/2 inch intervals through the set. I think the balance point is pretty consistent in the AMT even with the weight changes.
Hi AJ. Question about the amount of glue; When I try to use that small amount of glue the head will sometimes fly off at impact (driver). Not always but it happens. Generally learned to over glue the shaft part so that it oozes out around the ferrule. I do coat the inside but to excess. Is there an issue with using too much glue and have you had many issues of the glue braking? Thanks
I always say to use just enough epoxy to coat all the bonding surfaces. If you do this, you will have a small amount squeeze out of the space between the hosel and ferrule. That is normal. What you don't want or need is to essentially fill the hosel with epoxy. This is not really an issue with steel shafts however the reduced inside diameter of graphite shafts means the epoxy can squeeze far up inside the shaft which isn't good in my book.
@@EFGMCYeah, I learned a long time ago not to put too much in the hozel. Makes reusing the shaft Very Very difficult since the tip will be full of apoxy and really hard to open back up. Awesome videos, great source of information and tips.
I'm getting my MP18 MMC irons reshafted with DG 120 X100's from DG R300's myself! I'm excited. I also am reshafting my MP20 HMB 3 iron while I'm at it. I noticed the MP20 HMB has a recessed bit for a collared ferrule. I was going to use the same ferrules I got for my MP18's, but it doesn't look like I'll be able to do that. Would it really affect it that much? Or should I go ahead and get some collared .355 ferrules like the golfworks or billy bob's ones? Cheers.
Never think you need a collared ferrule. Get whatever design you want regardless of collar. Epoxy will fill in that gap during assembly and perform the same task as a plastic collar.
Those are some awesome shafts, if you've got the game for them. Low spins, medium ball fight. If you don't, you'll be reshafting those irons and selling them on eBay. You lost me on the propane torch. Just get a heat gun. You drill out that hosel anymore and you're going to turn those .355 heads into .370's. Why would you use graphite shafts when they've perfected steel (lite now)? They're a pain to replace. Nice video. Nice little plastic cups too ;-)
I have one of each. Torch is always faster but don't love to use it on painted finishes. KBS Tours are working great. Only issue is the high balance point requiring extra head weight during assembly but other than that. Probably picked up half a club worth of distance with them.
Question, say I buy clubs second hand, along with some shaft pulls in my preferred brand/flex. Should I still measure for swingweight? Ex. T100S irons with the PX LZ 6, getting AMT White X100.
The most important thing in regards to swing weight is ensuring all the irons have a similar feel to them. The actual number isn't as important. Really just making sure your 6 iron isn't drastically heavier than your 7 iron etc. Weighing all your component pieces before you begin is an easy way to ensure more consistent SW. 7-8g between each head will give you a good uniform SW progression. This assumes you are building with a standard length progression (1/2 inch per club).
love the content. I have a few questions. 1. you appear to be using the taper tip shafts which are iron specific. how do you determine which shaft goes in which iron? does the 5 iron shaft always go in a 5 iron? What if you have stronger lofted clubs (6 iron at traditional 5 iron loft). would you pair the shaft to the iron based on loft, desired playing length, weight? 2. do you bother taking into account the weight of the tape and epoxy for swing weighting? 2 layers of tape could easily reduce the sw by a point. 3. how do you balance grip preference with the overall weight and swingweight of a club? I like the MCC+4 align midsize but they are 67g. I would have to put a significant amount of tip weight to balance it out, but then I may make the overall weight too heavy. Thanks again!
Good Questions. If you put a 5I shaft into a 6I it will play stronger or a 6I shaft into a 5I will play softer. I install the grip on to the shaft prior to swing weighting the head to account for grip and tape weight. Epoxy is about point 1 SW.
When I popped the shaft into the head after glueing it felt quite lose and looked like it wanted to move around. Is there something I would have missed or not used enough Epoxy ?
Depending on the heads, some will have a very loose hosel. Callaway, Ping, PXG all have this. You ideally need to fill that gap either with brass shims or drywall mesh tape in order to center the shaft.
When the shafts come are they all the same size? Are you cutting each shaft to a different length to match the iron standard length or do they already per iron? Do you already have video on shaft lengths for irons?
Because these are .355 tip shafts to go into the Mizuno's, the manufacturer has constructed the shaft to bend appropriately for the give iron head it matches with. If you were using .370 shafts in something like Callaway Big Bertha irons, you would usually need to cut the tip amount a certain length to play correctly in the iron head. After that, you would just be butt cutting to the final desired length and that would be the same regardless of tip size (.355 or .370).
Question? Were the Mizuno heads what they refer to as B heads? It appeared the tip weight you used was heavy. My heads are B heads and I wasn't sure I could use that much weight in the shaft. I enjoyed watching you work.
I'm not sure. Got them used, however they were standard length to start with which makes me think they were just the standard weight heads, not the over length light ones. They had the Modus3 120s in them and I switched into KBS Tour so that is where the main weight "issue" came from. Modus being tip heavy and KBS being more counter balanced. You can add as much weight as you want to the heads. I have 10g in some of the heads and the shafts don't feel loose in the slightest to me at least. Thanks for your support!
If you are removing the grips with an air compressor you need to leave the heads on until the grips are removed. Otherwise the air will blow straight out the tip of the shaft where the head had been and will not remove the grip. After removing the grips you could then lock the shaft in a vice with a rubber shaft clamp and twist the heads off with heat.
You could also just pull the heads and not clean out the shaft tips so you still have the air tight seal for air removal. Then go back and clean the tips out.
What solvent did you use to clean any epoxy from head or shaft after epoxying new shaft to head? Was it grip solvent? Also what solvent was used to shine the ferrule after wiping ferrule with acetone? Was that also grip solvent?
Yes, grip solvent for both. I however no longer use grip solvent with the ferrule turning. Just use texture free rag or paper towel and extremely light strokes and the results are better and faster than what I show in this video.
I used the SW scale to measure the clubs dry fit (cut to length and just rubber banded the grip on). Then just add 2g per 1 SWP increase desired. I also weighed all the heads before I started so I had an idea already what weight they would probably need.
@@rubenc4465 This set was all different. It will just depend on the set of heads you have and what the raw weights were. I have had sets where one club required 6g of weight and the next required none. That example is more extreme but happens all the time.
Just re shafted my clubs this video help out a lot. Couple things that worked great for me, use a candle in glass jar and set the hosel over flame to heat epoxy if you don't have torch (mine ran out of fuel half way through) the other is place ferrule in hot water, and shaft tip in ice water if you have trouble getting ferrule on
I have never replaced a shaft before and I found your video very informative and feel confident to give it a go, thank you.
pro tip: put head in vice, then heat shaft while pulling. Uses least amount of heat - even works with graphite.
Absolutely love the red KBS labels with the black shafts!
very nice shop, i noticed that, my career was over 45 years in the elevator trade , instructor also, for apprenticeship young mens, step by step is very importnant, thank you sir
Thank you for taking the time to show us how to do this. I know how to epoxy the head but had no idea how much went into this! Thank you again!
Curt
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the thorough explanation; planning to re-shaft my irons over the winter.
Your clubs look great, good choice to go without the shaft labels imo. Great job!
Absolute Guns strong 💪 at 17²¹...😂
Great video(all your videos), I'm taking on this project as we speak... brand new to the club building game!! You the man!!
Thanks for this! I just successfully reshafted my 4 iron with your instructions.
The best video for reshaft irons, thank you
Thanks you for this. Following your instructions I put new shafts on my irons super easy and fun. Using the calculator they all came out D2-D3. I know the calculations aren't perfect but for at home DIY I am super happy! Thanks again
Congrats. Glad to hear the videos were helpful.
I made a mock grip with 4 wraps of tape. Had to add brass tip weights to every shaft (they got really head light) to dial in the swing weights. I found it difficult to get the exact swing weight for each club. There all right around a D2ish. First time ever building my own clubs. It was a long process for me. Your video was definitely helpful.
Love hearing that. It gets easier and faster as you get more used to the process and any little variations that can come up with different brands.
only thing i would say is make sure to put ferrules on when weighing for swing weight.
Cool video. If you take a piece of fishing line and run it over the end of the tip then slide the head on It will be a nice tight friction fit so the head won’t fall off while swing weighing. If that makes sense.
I've seen that trick from a Mizuno video I believe. I think McGolf also uses it for frequency matching. For me in the time it takes to get the fishing line cut and lined up, I can have already weighed out 3 clubs, but if you're worried about dropping a pristine new head on the ground, I can see the appeal.
Really good demonstration of how to re-shaft your own clubs. Thank you so much.👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you. This was very useful. I’m thinking of doing my own club building and this really helped my understanding of what is involved. I look forward to watching some of your other videos.
this helps me a lot because I am designing my own golf irons and I wanted to know what the process was like so i can get the dimensions for the hozel to line up with assembling the ferrule and shaft
Wow awesome, i can only hope all club builders are as meticulous as you. I dropped my clubs off to pga superstore to get reshafted and I hope they follow all your steps!
Ummm. I hope so too.
I just reshafted a friend’s new Bettinardi wedges. That glue was tough to break. I started with my heat gun but gave up and used the torch. And I always use my shaft puller.
If they are steel shafts, usually easier to torch it, then twist the head to break the epoxy bond.
@6:03 pulling shaft with no grip. You can also just place the shaft in a vice with a shaft protector and twist the head.
Thanks for the refresher about to build a set from some Callaway heads though I am using Callaway Diablo Shafts.
Depending on what heads you are using, you might want to watch this video also. Some Callaway hosels require a bit more work to get a good fit.
ua-cam.com/video/eSdutT5NU40/v-deo.html
@@EFGMC Thanks for the link appreciate it. A few years ago I built a set of Callaway X and your correct the shafts can be a little fiddley.
Loved the video. I've been half-scared to try to take on a reshafting project, but after watching, I think I can handle that! Thanks!
Great! If you have any questions, post it here. I try to respond asap.
@@EFGMC it was fun! I reshafted two 6-irons to try the graphite shafts, and I have to say- it was much more straight forward than I thought it would be. I really enjoyed doing the work on my own clubs. Thanks!
@@joebeagle1009 Fantastic. Of course you realize now no club in your bag is safe! The tinkering flood gates are open.
This is a great video, really informative! definitely feel more confident taking on a project like this. the only question I have, is if you want to have the grips aligned with the club face, what is the best way to make sure they are aligned?
I would use the level on your phone to make sure the face is perfectly up and down before putting the grip on.
Nice work, I really learned a lot
Hello AJ, i just put new grips on my irons this week. These ole irons had some mild surface rust so I've cleaned them properly but i did leave the old titlest stickers on them should i remove those old stickers off for the cleaner look
You mentioned this at the end of your tuterial here now the little
light is going off should i take them off they are peeling a bit
I get rid of them if they are peeling.
Brilliant tutorial AJ… I learnt a lot there…. Thank you.. 👍
Greetings, should all irons have the same swing weight? And which would be the most recommended for the Mizuno MP52 with a shaft of approximately 60g? Thanks. If I lived near your workshop, I'm sure you would work on my clubs only you 💪💪💪
They should all be close, but not necessarily exactly the same. You can have a progression where the shorter clubs feel heavier.
Precise and methodical, well done. Best instructional vid for reshaft. Thank you.
That tilting vice when installing grips would drive me crazy.
Nice job, great video and well explained. If I wanted to do this myself what tools are must haves and what ones are nice to have but not absolutely necessary? Thank you!
Start with this video. I do the entire build using very basic tools.
ua-cam.com/video/rwKquntylmM/v-deo.html
great work! i like the shaft label for looks and identification for future owners. i prefer to have the label where you can see it, rather than hiding on the bottom. personally i don't want a swing weight more than d2, but with a 120 gram shaft, probably could not tell. i wonder about orientation of shaft seam, since you have the ability to go a little beyond standard manufacturing techniques.
Thanks for watching. I don't believe that aligning the shaft in specific orientations is of any discernible benefit so I don't do it. But if you have the means to identify and feel it's a benefit, then I say go for it. I just would never pay for it.
Really enjoyed your video. Very detailed and simple content.
Damn KBS and their higher balance points. Those are some decent tips you're inserting. Had the same issue with mine. I also had to deal with going 1/4 in shorter. Great video
Yeah, I feel your pain. Those were 10g weights I used in about half the heads. I like the KBS Tour shaft but it's a PIA when it comes to swing weight. Just went with Nippon with my new build b/c I knew they are tip heavy by comparison.
@@EFGMC modus?
@@dcloder Sorry, yes Modus3 115 though the 120 and 125 are also more neutral. Stay away from the older NS Pro as they are more butt weighted again.
Great Video; I like the part where you say you get restless and bored. I see why you are so good at what you do. I love trying new things, but I try not to overdo it. I have a few very complacent friends; their game never changes; they get excited when they have a fair game, low mid 90's lol; they wonder why I don't play with them anymore.
Sometimes I just need something different to look at in the golf bag. Also a convenient excuse for bad play!
very nice job and thanks for the easy explanation ,I am thinking to switch my from steel to graphite ,one question how I know the size of the tip most of the shafts I see said .370 size I want the weight 70 grams ,
can you recomend a website to buy them by the way my iron are cobra F max .Thank for you time
I would look at Golfworks. Lots of shafts, also have a table that tells you the recommended replacement shafts for most any irons. This includes giving you the specs including whether the heads are .370 or .355
Pretty sure yours are .370
@@EFGMC thanks 🙏 a lot for taking the time to respond to my questions and for the great tips
Great Job I tend to use an old grip which is slit all the way down to put on the shaft when checking the swing weight.
Also some of your tip weights looked large what swing weight did they end up at when finished?
thanks
I use the slit grip method sometimes, just have to be careful that the shaft doesn't start cutting into the grip cap and throw off the weight.
SW on these came out to D3. These heads were all quite light to start with. Thanks for watching. Sorry for the slow reply. These youtube comments don't always alert me when they show up.
Do you have links for the tools and solvents you used or a list that could be used? Thanks, I really enjoyed it.
I don't have a full list of what I use though I do cover it in some videos. Might try this one where I did the build with only basic everyday tools.
ua-cam.com/video/rwKquntylmM/v-deo.html
Great video!
Fantastic video but please could you tell me what liquid is in the plastic bottle when attaching the grip?
Grip solvent, which is a mineral spirits based product.
Hello. If fitting Graphite shafts, do you drill the tips to make the weights fit inside the shaft? Great vid thanks..
Graphite tip weights have narrow stems to fit inside the graphite vent hole. However some shafts have very narrow vent holes and will need to be drilled a bit more.
Those shafts look awesome! Nice work. I'm changing parallel to taper tip shafts. First time switching shafts. So, if I've got this correct I need to use a shim? Do I always need a tip weight? -I don't have a swing weight scale.
Yes to the shims. If you are concerned about the swing weight, you can dry fit the club together before epoxying and use an online SW calculator or app to get a very good idea what the SW will be. Just make sure you measure accurately and the calculator will be very good.
@@EFGMC Thank you!
Thanks for all your videos! Awesome! Just a quick question from your expertise, I have just re shafted my son ( he is 16, +1 hdcp), we have gone from the Nippon Pro Modus 105 (s) to the Dynamic Gold Tour issue (120 gram S400), to keep the flight down a little lower. When pulling out the shafts we notice a brass weight on the bottom, the manufacture said keep them in however now the swing weight has gone from D2 to D5/6. What are you thoughts? I thought maybe Iet him hit a few and see what he says and then maybe have to take all the heads off again and take out the weight, but before I do that I thought I would ask the expert. Thanks!
That heavier shaft will add swing weight so the brass weights are likely not necessary. You might need different weights to ensure all the irons SW out similar but will need smaller weight ones for that.
Thanks AJ, I think I will let him hit one first and then if need be, I will have to take the heads all off again :-(. Although I think SW is a matter of feel, definitely the overall mass has increased with the heavier shaft. Cheers@@EFGMC
Hi, just a tip from me, instead of putting shaft together with rubber band, have a few grips (used, cheaper, in different models/weight ) which are cut open. Then you just put it on the shaft and sits perfectly when meassuering swingweight! When assembling clubs i like to spine shafts and afterwards put head on using a fishing line to find where it needs to sit to go straight trought the ball. I tried a trackman test before and after spining shafts and it does affect dispersion. The longer the club the more impact it has. Otherwise great videos, thanks.
I used cut grips for a long time but then was told it can lead to inconsistent shaft depth and length since the steel shafts start to cut into the rubber over time. Also it just gives an approximation of the weight, which can be off spec by a gram or more besides just stock weights all being slightly different. My way, at least I know the weight is right on. Though honestly, either method probably gets the same result within 1 SWP so I say do whatever you prefer.
Won't get into the spining.😁 If it works for you and as long as you aren't paying someone $30 per shaft to do it, I have no problems with it.
Thanks for watching!
@@EFGMC I do the spining myself :) so its cheap.
Amazing! Thank you! Question, the small brass looking dowels that you slid into the end of the shafts right after applying the epoxy, just before you slid the new shaft into the club head, are those weights? Did they come with your new shafts? The black nickeled finish looks so good!
Those are tip weights you buy separately. They come in different sizes, weights, and versions for steel and graphite shafts.
Hi, A great, easy to follow video. Searching all over the web for this question and no luck.... Have you or anyone you know reshafted the TM Sim irons? I’m asking as I’m trying not to run into any surprises along the way. That happened with the Ping G700’s. Pings used to be soooo easy. Not so much anymore. Actually had to send back to Ping... $$$ Thanks and glad I came across your site
I haven't done any Sims. M5 is the most recent I've done. No issues there. Have not heard of any weirdness with the Sim. Would recommend just pulling one iron head for inspection before getting into the whole set. If you see anything odd, let me know.
Thank you so much for not only the reply, but a fast one!! Some of the online bigger golf stores should take notice of excellent customer service like this.
Sorry, A ps.... love your work setup and very envious!!
Another great video....well done sir.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi like your videos very much was wondering can you re use ferrells
Sometimes but it takes a lot of extra care to not damage them during the breakdown phase. Also if they are on graphite shafts, then no.
Personally it's almost never worth the effort to save them unless you have no other option.
If you are removing the grips with compressed air, remove the grips before removing the heads. If you remove the heads first the air will blow through the open shaft tip and not push the grip off.
Can you do a video replacing old Big Bertha bore through graphite shafts with new ones? I may have bitten off more than I can chew with this project. Need some help.
Those just have a couple extra steps. I don't have a set available to do a demo on. The main differences are you will need to sand down the shaft tips a bit because the hosels taper in at the bottom a little. Hand sand them until they just pass though the hole in the sole. Obviously one side of the shaft will be sticking further through because of the angle. Just make sure that the shaft is at least even with the sole on the short side.
Epoxy as with any club remembering to wipe off the sole in addition to the hosel.
Once dry, sand down the graphite tip until it's flush with the sole.
Next you need to buy some graphite shaft pins. You will need to epoxy these into the hole in the shaft as a separate step. Once dry you can cut off the excess with clippers or a hack saw.
Again sand it down and then some light finishing sand paper and acetone wipe like you would with a ferrule.
That's it.
Great video, love the level of detail and pacing. I'm in the planning stage of reworking a set of MP-18 MMCs but I don't have them in hand. Do you happen to know the BBGM (bottom bore to ground measurement) on these? It's the difference between the cut shaft length and the assembled playing length. Thanks!
I do. It's just over 1 inch, call it 1 and 1/16 to 1 and 1/8. Are you trying to figure out final length with some used shafts?
@@EFGMC Thanks! I'll probably keep the same shafts (C-Taper Lite S) but at the moment I'm just playing with a couple swing weight and MOI calculators to see how they flow into my wedges (Glide Forged with KBS Tour S). I've got the wedges taken apart here but the irons are in FL. Using your head weights as placeholders, but I know I'll have to actually take them apart eventually to get them accurate. Thanks again.
I would have used the labels I think kbs has one of the coolest shaft bands. Good video though I’m about to do/have my 4 iron done.
Yeah, I always default to simple when it comes to aesthetics. Logos down, plain black ferrules, single sight line putters. Boring stuff but less distracting for me.
what brand shirt are you wearing? Also nice shafting video, very helpful!
What else can you use to take the finish off the shaft and to roughen them up ? If you haven’t got a 2 in one machine ??
For steel, coarse to medium grit sand paper works great, just takes a bit of time. For graphite, again you can use medium grit, or use a utility knife blade as a scraper, angle the blade towards you and scrape away from you so you aren't cutting into the shaft, just scraping off paint.
Does a grinder work for metal shafts or not really ?
@@nathanalexander4290 Yes, just use a gentle touch.
You are brave to do the video un a nice Polo. I've ruined many shirts when putting on grips and the solvent squirts back on my shirt and seems almost always to happen when I forget to put on the apron. Well done video keep em coming.
I always do a side step when installing grips for just that reason. Also try and go smooth with it to lower the pressure so it doesn't spray out like a fire hose.
great video, it would be even better if you listed all of the brands of materials you used... just a suggestion
Does it matter which way the shaft faces as you install into the head. The look great without the labels.. M
Do you have a video on the channel going through all the tools you needed here? Maybe with some affiliate links?
Thank you for the video. My only question I have.. I noticed you did not perform a shaft spine alignment. Is spine alignment recommended or is a hoax? I appreciate your comment.
I think that if a shaft needed alignment you probably shouldn't be using that shaft. I've done a number of videos testing between PURE or Spine or FLO vs not and have yet to see any results that proves it's value.
Very nice. Would they be weights you put in the hosel. ?
Yes they are.
@@EFGMC would they be of different weight for each club.
@@michaelbritton9778 Usually they are all about the same depending on the QC of the heads and the lengths you chose.
@@EFGMC Thank you very much.
Aj, great video. Straight forward layman approach instead of the usual engineering talk that lulls you asleep halfway through. How did you know your heads were light? Is there a book that lists the club weight from manufacturers?
It can be hard to find exact specs and the OEM websites will not have them but you can usually find some different charts online or look at some component club brands (like Maltby who shows the head weights) to get an idea where the weight should be for a blade style or GI iron.
@@EFGMC Thanks. It can be overwhelming searching the net for club specs, only to find yourself chasing your tail. Thanks for the info, Jon
Nice work..good instruction..
great video, thanks, going to build my sons Apex 19s this week. You didnt go into detail about tip weighting however, or it wasn't shown. Where does the label go traditionally when rotating the shaft once its been glued in? thanks
Tip weighting basic rule is 2 grams per 1 swing weight point change. I like to weigh all the heads first and check if they have a constant 7g change. That gives a good indication of how much weight I might need to add to get everything in line.
If you are talking about the graphics on the shaft, you can align them however you choose. I always default to logo down. If you are talking about shaft band stickers, they usually go an inch or so below the grip.
I like this video very much, just one question: you had to use very large tip weights to balance the clubs. Is a weight at this size not affecting the feel at impact? I am asking because I should do the same, and I am thinking about let the lead tape behind the middle of the club like I did try out for the real feel.
Great video! What vice are you using when you're installing the gips?
Came from Golfworks. They have a few different versions.
This might be a silly question but does the shaft need to be turned to any specific direction?
Hi AJ, I really like my G425 irons, but as age has crept up with me so has my swing speed slowed down. Question here, it possible to re shaft my irons with a senior flex graphite shafts? I made a mistake many many years ago and sold my Wilson Staff (stiff) blades and bought Ping Zing 2 irons with Reg shafts instead of re shafting and I don’t want to make the same mistake again.
Yes they can be reshafted. You can send me a message if you want a price quote.
Hello. That’s from 3 years ago. Have you changed clubs since then. Did your dispersion changed? Did you use and swing optimizer? Thanks.
I change clubs every year at least because I get bored and I need new content!! About to build a new set in a week or two.
what grit is the shafting beads? found glass beads selling locally at our place here with a lot of grit options
I do not know. You might try contacting Golfworks for example and asking them if they know??
Great videos. I like the way you simplify the process. And here's my question. I'm thinking about taking a set of irons and making a one length set out of them. I see lots of videos about finding the spine of the shaft and F.L.O. checking. Do I really need to find the spine if I line the head up correctly oriented to oscilation?
Thanks for watching. There are various viewpoints on Spine, FLO, PURE etc. My take (and I am planning some videos on the subject) is it does not matter if a shaft is oriented or not. Two main reasons. First, the shaft is bending not in a single plane, but in countless planes as it rotates during the swing so trying to align a shaft in any one orientation disregards all the other ways it bends during the swing. Second, if a shaft is "round" and bends the same around it's circumference, alignment is not going to benefit you. If a shaft is out of round to a point where say logo up produces a stiff equivalent flex but logo 90 degrees from there produces an R flex, that shaft is junk and should never have made it out of the factory.
All that being said, if you are doing it yourself and not paying for it, then I say go for it if it gives you more confidence. As far as which direction to install if you do, some people will say with spine pointing on target line and some will say at 12 o clock position. I think more people lean towards the 12 o clock method but again I don't believe in it myself so don't have a dog in that fight.
@@EFGMC Thank you very much for the response. So, I guess I'll go for it. I'll try to match swing weights and see how well, or not so well, it works. Again, thank you. I look forward to seeing more of your videos on this subject.
To answer your question about Spine and FLO aligning the shaft, I would have to say after 17 years of doing both on ALL of my clubs and any I build for customers, I would NEVER think to play a club that I did not do the Spine and FLO alignment work on the shafts. Does it make a difference? YES IT DOES. To prove my statement, let me tell you a story of when I was looking to buy a used driver to re-build for myself. I found two drivers, exact same make and model, same factory shaft, same flex. Only difference was one driver the head looked like new, the other the head had a number of clips broken off the paint on the crown of the head. Well used to say the least. I decided to hit both on a launch monitor to see how they felt and performed. The driver with the like new head was terrible. EVERY ball I hit I hit a big fat SLICE with it. The driver with the well worn head, I hit it DEAD STRAIGHT and long. Same drivers remember. The worn driver was $20 cheaper that the like new one, but the worn one performed well and the pretty one was terrible. Maybe that's why the pretty one was still pretty, it never to use because it didn't perform. So I decided to buy both to see what I could do with the pretty one to get it to perform like the ugly one. I pulled the shaft from the pretty one, did a Spine and FLO alignment job on it and then re-installed it in the head and put the grip back on. Went back to the store and re-tested the pretty one on the monitor and this time I could hit it just fine. NO SLICE this time, just nice straight and long drives like the ugly one I tested. Bottom line here. SAME shaft, Spine and FLO aligned, it the same head, same grip, went from a nasty SLICE to a nice straight and long drive. Does Spine and FLO alignment make a difference. I'LL LET YOU DECIDE.
IF you would like more prove, I can give you lots of cases where doing the Spine and FLO alignment work did wonders for the performance of the clubs.
@@donfisher6659 I'm definitely interested in learning more about this before I start this build. I'd like to speak with you about it, if possible. If you're on FB, my profile is under my name and the profile pic is of my business Reaper Arsenal-South. I look forward to hearing from you.
@@jasoncampbell501 I'd be happy to talk to you about how important Spine and FLO alignment of the shaft is to how the club will perform when it is assembled. I looked on FB and found LOTS of Jason Campbells but not you as far as I could tell. I do have a FB account and you can find me under Don Fisher. I'm in Aurora, Colorado. I'm NOT a big user of FB and have only used it once or twice since I signed up to make a friend happy. Maybe YOU can find me on FB and get it touch with me so we can talk.
Hello,
what solvent do you use to shine the ferrules ?
Thanks from France.
Acetone on a texture free cloth, brushed on very gently.
@@EFGMC Thank you
It seemed you used, Acetone & then Grip Solvent in the end for polish? Is that correct?
Also seemed you used Grip Solvent when wiping down shaft after installation, is that also correct?
Thanks!
@@richshallcross Skip the solvent polish step. If you brush the acetone very gently, you won't need it.
I haven't done shafts in 20 years but the process still looks the same. The bead additiive to the epoxy does looke different and I always used double sided tape for grips. Is that not the case anymore?
Still use double sided tape. The dispenser pulls the backing off.
Sorry for the basic question but how far does the shaft extend into the head? does it go all the way down into the available space?
Yes, the correct size shaft should touch the bottom of the hosel. Usually it's around an inch to 1 1/4 deep. If the shaft is getting stuck and not bottoming out, you might have the wrong diameter shaft, need to further clean out the hosel to remove debris, or ream out the hosel to enlarge the opening (last resort).
I'm hitting Taylormade burner clubs that are stiff shafts. I am considering re-stafting them. My question is, since they are several years old are they worth re-shafting? My age is becoming a factor also. Your opinion would be welcomed.
Will come down to the condition of the heads and if you are happy with the lofts on them. Also are you doing the work vs having the work done?
Hi After weighing my iron heads, i have noticed the 4 iron at 251g and the 5 iron head at 254g. Is a 3g difference normal in the long irons? as the 5 iron to pw are 7g increments..Or would you ad 4g weight to the 5 to pw so the 4 to pw would have 7g difference throughout the set? Recoil ESX 480 F4 shafts to be fitted.. Thanks...Nick..
Always easier to add weight than take it away. I think some long irons will be lighter because the manufacturer builds them on longer shafts than the standard 1/2 inch progression.
I forgot to mention that the 4 iron is a Callaway UT Apex CB model and appears to have a much thicker sole than the 5 iron..Do I need a 7g weight difference between these irons or shall I just make do with the 3 grams difference and build the clubs? Thanks....@@EFGMC
@@nickpritchard7130 Easier to build lighter and then add lead tape if it feels too light.
I had my new shafts "PURED". Do they have to be aligned to the club face in any way?
They are supposed to be installed so the PURE mark sits in 12 o'clock position though some people will say it should be at 3 o'clock. If it's me, I'd tell you it doesn't matter and not worth the money on future builds.
Love to have the video link to remove grips and reinstall as you did.
Here is the link
ua-cam.com/video/wpVbsmVshyw/v-deo.html
I recently ordered some steelfiber shafts for my set of ZX5's and am super excited. I contacted my local big box golf retailer and seems pretty affordable to do a reshaft for my irons. I'm afraid if I go with them, they will not be as detailed, particularly with the weighting, and that I'll end up with some mismatched weighting (PW-D1, 9i-D4, 5i-C7... you catch my drift). Do you or anyone else have any input on this?
Any big box store will be a roll of the dice as to what you will get. Might get someone good, might not. I can tell you that they don't pay attention to SW. They are only going to just glue and go. If you want it done right you need to find an independent club builder or you can ship them to me!
If you are interested in that, just email me.
aj@smartstake.com
@@EFGMC sent email!
I have a set of Ping G430 irons with Nippon Pro Modus 105 stiff shafts and a set of Srixon ZX5 MKII with KBS Tour Lite regular shafts.
Would it be possible to swap these shafts over?
Yes, you could swap those two setups. Everything would fit without issue. The Pings are tricky to deal with compared to the Srixon heads, but other than that.
I’m looking to replace ferrules on my irons, is shaft beads essential when applying epoxy?
Beads are never necessary with a good fit.
@@EFGMC thanks for getting back to me, loving the videos!! They are definitely giving me confidence to do a home build.
Rookie question. If I need to cut a shaft for a TM M4 5i which is 38.50 per the TM website do I measure from shaft tip to butt without the head?
38.5 is the playing length so you would measure from the base of the club head hosel up the back of the shaft to 38.25 inches. The grip will give you the final .25 inches.
Question about a build for a competitive Jr golfer (59 inches tall) transitioning into adult clubs. Looking to put some used recoil ES 460 F2 into my old TM PSI irons. Your video here shows most of the basics of removing my steel shaft and other videos on prepping you use shaft. Any thoughts on adjusting the swing weight since I'm going to have to cut the length of the shaft down a bit as well. Thanks!
I would probably suggest putting one club together first (6,7, or 8 iron). Guessing you are planning on cutting an inch or so for that 5ft size. Let them swing and hit with that one club at whatever SW it sits at. Don't think it will be too heavy and I personally like a heavier head with junior clubs. As far as being too light, see how it feels for them and how consistent the strike pattern is. Play around with a bit of lead tape need be until you hit that point that feels right and is most consistent for them. Then you can pre weight the rest of the club if they are too light for a cleaner look or just go with the lead tape for the rest.
@@EFGMC Thank you and Merry Christmas 🎄.
@@kgil35 No problem. Let me know how they work out. Merry Christmas!
@@EFGMC Will do and also you don't think the shims will cause a problem? I think my PSIs are a ..37 in the recoil shafts I have are 0.355.
@@EFGMC I've heard mixed reviews regarding the use of shims but again for a JR golfer that has a 75 mph swing speed I don't think it'd be that big of a deal.
New to golfing. Was gifted some older model Golden bears. One happens to have a iron head separating from shaft so I need to get that fixed. Also started the process of put new grips… the old ones ( originals) are in really bad shape. Your videos gave me lots of hope to get that # 4 iron fixed. Thanks for the video 👍
Hello.
Nice video. I'm more and more interested to build my own set.
But I wonder : swingweight is a static measurement, while MOI is a dynamic one.
So, I start to think that it's better to have the same MOI on every club than the same weight.
Some people agree with you. I have done sets using MOI matching and personally never found a benefit from it for myself but I know others who like that feel. The simple way to do it is progressively SW the set going .6 SWP (swing weight points) per iron going heavier from long iron to short.
Salutation, im french so im gonna do my best for my question. Why you dont fine the spinal on your shaft?
Thanks for the question. If you want to find the spine of a shaft yourself and orient it a certain way, I won't try and stop you. I don't believe there is value is doing so and I would certainly never pay someone else to do it for my clubs. People have differing views on this topic but I will always be against it. I've done a few different videos about SST PURE and why I don't think it works. Might check those out if you want more detailed reason why I don't agree with it.
@@EFGMCim not really good in english, so if i understand you say is not neccesary to no the spine on the shaft? Do you think you can make video about it , to explain your position ?
@@loupatcarriere5515
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I don't recommend use a drill with sandpaper, the best way is a bottoming ream to the exact size of the hole. If you know the size of the hole then purchase a bottom ream that size. It will clean it out without any problems.
I recall from some of your vidz you like a 7g difference between clubs in total weight. Does that hold true for AMT shafts too or should i just focus on the swing weight? I’m planning on installing AMT White S300 shafts in a set of T200 iron heads to play around…my gamers are T100S irons with Project X LZ 6.0 shafts…
The 7g rule is based off the assumption you are stepping in 1/2 inch intervals through the set. I think the balance point is pretty consistent in the AMT even with the weight changes.
Are Mizuno irons and wedges all tapered i.e. .355 in the hosel size？
What about Srixon, Bridgestone, and Titleist？ Thanks！
All Mizuno are .355
All Srixon are .355
All Titleist are .355
Bridgestone are usually .355 but there are some random .370s.
@@EFGMC Much appreciated, thank you very much for the information and, more importantly, knowledge!
Hi AJ. Question about the amount of glue; When I try to use that small amount of glue the head will sometimes fly off at impact (driver). Not always but it happens. Generally learned to over glue the shaft part so that it oozes out around the ferrule. I do coat the inside but to excess. Is there an issue with using too much glue and have you had many issues of the glue braking? Thanks
I always say to use just enough epoxy to coat all the bonding surfaces. If you do this, you will have a small amount squeeze out of the space between the hosel and ferrule. That is normal. What you don't want or need is to essentially fill the hosel with epoxy. This is not really an issue with steel shafts however the reduced inside diameter of graphite shafts means the epoxy can squeeze far up inside the shaft which isn't good in my book.
@@EFGMCYeah, I learned a long time ago not to put too much in the hozel. Makes reusing the shaft Very Very difficult since the tip will be full of apoxy and really hard to open back up. Awesome videos, great source of information and tips.
I'm getting my MP18 MMC irons reshafted with DG 120 X100's from DG R300's myself! I'm excited. I also am reshafting my MP20 HMB 3 iron while I'm at it. I noticed the MP20 HMB has a recessed bit for a collared ferrule. I was going to use the same ferrules I got for my MP18's, but it doesn't look like I'll be able to do that. Would it really affect it that much? Or should I go ahead and get some collared .355 ferrules like the golfworks or billy bob's ones? Cheers.
Never think you need a collared ferrule. Get whatever design you want regardless of collar. Epoxy will fill in that gap during assembly and perform the same task as a plastic collar.
@@EFGMC thanks a lot for the quick reply! Love the channel. Really informative stuff.
Those are some awesome shafts, if you've got the game for them. Low spins, medium ball fight. If you don't, you'll be reshafting those irons and selling them on eBay. You lost me on the propane torch. Just get a heat gun. You drill out that hosel anymore and you're going to turn those .355 heads into .370's. Why would you use graphite shafts when they've perfected steel (lite now)? They're a pain to replace. Nice video. Nice little plastic cups too ;-)
I have one of each. Torch is always faster but don't love to use it on painted finishes. KBS Tours are working great. Only issue is the high balance point requiring extra head weight during assembly but other than that. Probably picked up half a club worth of distance with them.
Question, say I buy clubs second hand, along with some shaft pulls in my preferred brand/flex. Should I still measure for swingweight? Ex. T100S irons with the PX LZ 6, getting AMT White X100.
The most important thing in regards to swing weight is ensuring all the irons have a similar feel to them. The actual number isn't as important. Really just making sure your 6 iron isn't drastically heavier than your 7 iron etc. Weighing all your component pieces before you begin is an easy way to ensure more consistent SW. 7-8g between each head will give you a good uniform SW progression. This assumes you are building with a standard length progression (1/2 inch per club).
Great videos, really enjoying them 👍👍
Thanks for the support!
love the content. I have a few questions. 1. you appear to be using the taper tip shafts which are iron specific. how do you determine which shaft goes in which iron? does the 5 iron shaft always go in a 5 iron? What if you have stronger lofted clubs (6 iron at traditional 5 iron loft). would you pair the shaft to the iron based on loft, desired playing length, weight? 2. do you bother taking into account the weight of the tape and epoxy for swing weighting? 2 layers of tape could easily reduce the sw by a point. 3. how do you balance grip preference with the overall weight and swingweight of a club? I like the MCC+4 align midsize but they are 67g. I would have to put a significant amount of tip weight to balance it out, but then I may make the overall weight too heavy. Thanks again!
Good Questions. If you put a 5I shaft into a 6I it will play stronger or a 6I shaft into a 5I will play softer. I install the grip on to the shaft prior to swing weighting the head to account for grip and tape weight. Epoxy is about point 1 SW.
When I popped the shaft into the head after glueing it felt quite lose and looked like it wanted to move around.
Is there something I would have missed or not used enough Epoxy ?
Depending on the heads, some will have a very loose hosel. Callaway, Ping, PXG all have this. You ideally need to fill that gap either with brass shims or drywall mesh tape in order to center the shaft.
When the shafts come are they all the same size? Are you cutting each shaft to a different length to match the iron standard length or do they already per iron? Do you already have video on shaft lengths for irons?
Because these are .355 tip shafts to go into the Mizuno's, the manufacturer has constructed the shaft to bend appropriately for the give iron head it matches with. If you were using .370 shafts in something like Callaway Big Bertha irons, you would usually need to cut the tip amount a certain length to play correctly in the iron head.
After that, you would just be butt cutting to the final desired length and that would be the same regardless of tip size (.355 or .370).
Question? Were the Mizuno heads what they refer to as B heads? It appeared the tip weight you used was heavy. My heads are B heads and I wasn't sure I could use that much weight in the shaft. I enjoyed watching you work.
I'm not sure. Got them used, however they were standard length to start with which makes me think they were just the standard weight heads, not the over length light ones. They had the Modus3 120s in them and I switched into KBS Tour so that is where the main weight "issue" came from. Modus being tip heavy and KBS being more counter balanced.
You can add as much weight as you want to the heads. I have 10g in some of the heads and the shafts don't feel loose in the slightest to me at least.
Thanks for your support!
If you are removing the grips with an air compressor you need to leave the heads on until the grips are removed. Otherwise the air will blow straight out the tip of the shaft where the head had been and will not remove the grip. After removing the grips you could then lock the shaft in a vice with a rubber shaft clamp and twist the heads off with heat.
You could also just pull the heads and not clean out the shaft tips so you still have the air tight seal for air removal. Then go back and clean the tips out.
@@EFGMC - Sometimes that works. Sometimes, after removing the head, there is no epoxy plug to block the flow of air. I have had both happen.
What solvent did you use to clean any epoxy from head or shaft after epoxying new shaft to head? Was it grip solvent? Also what solvent was used to shine the ferrule after wiping ferrule with acetone? Was that also grip solvent?
Yes, grip solvent for both. I however no longer use grip solvent with the ferrule turning. Just use texture free rag or paper towel and extremely light strokes and the results are better and faster than what I show in this video.
what was the brand of the epoxy and what is the solvent that you are using?
Can you explain how you found out what tip weight to use. You didn't explain that part. They all looked the same but just wanted to make sure. Thanks
I used the SW scale to measure the clubs dry fit (cut to length and just rubber banded the grip on). Then just add 2g per 1 SWP increase desired. I also weighed all the heads before I started so I had an idea already what weight they would probably need.
@@EFGMC My main question is this: Do they all have the same amount added to them or do they vary from club to club? Did you add 4gm to all of them?
@@rubenc4465 This set was all different. It will just depend on the set of heads you have and what the raw weights were.
I have had sets where one club required 6g of weight and the next required none. That example is more extreme but happens all the time.
@@EFGMC Thanks for the info