Thank you. I especially liked how you showed how to fine tune the travel, etc. I had my gunsmith put in my lighter spring but now that I see how easy it is I am pissed that I didn't do it myself. My pull weight is at 15 lbs so I am going to adjust based on your video. Touche.
Thanks for the video. I did the exact same procedure a few weeks ago, but using the YoDave spring. The original spring allowed me a pound of pull weight, and the YoDave spring brought it down to 10oz, safely (lateral movement and hitting the action will not fire). It could go down to 8oz but was unsafe (lateral and hitting will fire). One thing though, is that I installed a YoDave firing pin +10 spring and it made the trigger weight twice as heavy, cancelling the benefits of the new trigger spring, so I reverted to the original firing pin spring. I do not know why your lightest pull weight with the YoDave spring is over a pound, it should be around 10oz maybe less, that's the general consensus on the forums among CZ shooters, as well as my results. Keep up the good work!
Interesting. I couldn't get either of my stock triggers under 2lbs. The YoDave brought it to 1lb which I'm happy with. With mass produced factory triggers it can sometimes be luck of the draw. Maybe I could get it lower by polishing the internals, but I'm happy with where it is at currently.
@@CopperStarPrecision Didn't you put in a PP Metal Cocking Indicator and YoDave +10% Striking Spring? Was this video made with OEM parts? Edit: I watched your bolt upgrade video again. At the end you said the Metal Cocking Indicator doesn't work well for you with the YoDave +10% Striking Spring. I'm guessing because the Metal Cocking Indicator compresses the striking spring slightly.
Good stuff man! I’m surprised that I see this. I’ve been in “shoot tube jail” for a few months… I’d be surprised if they don’t delete this comment. Keep up the great work!!
I’ve got 2 YoDave springs. One will take the trigger down to 13oz safely. Wanted it lighter, so I bought the 8oz YD spring and still can’t get below 13oz consistently without losing safety. I’ve adjusted every screw several ways with no luck. Maybe I need to polish the internals? Any advice other that what I’m thinking already? This is for my 457 MTR.
As far as I know YoDave only offers one spring for ~50% reduction in pull weight. I've seen Pete's Pillars offer a 5.2lb/in and a 9.6lb/in spring so maybe those are the two you're referring to. The adjustments I show in this video are for the crispest brake of the trigger, but it might not be the lightest. To get lighter you may need to give more "take up" by moving the trigger outwards or allow for more overtravel. Try making all of your adjustments with the trigger pull weight screw removed (the one with the nut on it). That will probably give you the theoretical lower limit of pull weight. Then replace the screw but just until it is touching the spring. Are you using a stronger firing pin spring? Some people report that you get a heavier pull with the stronger spring as it is increasing the contact force/friction between the sear and the firing pin. If you are, take it out and it should lower your pull weight. Other than that, polishing the internals is probably the only other choice. make sure there are no burs on the inside of the trigger housing and when you polish make sure you're not removing material where the geometry of the trigger components is changing. Seeing as it is a mass-produced part, you're kind of playing the trigger lottery. I've been able to get some down to 13-15 oz and others won't go lower than 19-20 oz. I have not polished any of my triggers though. Good luck, let me know how it goes.
@ Yes, Pete’s is what I have. 🤦🏻♂️ I’ve tried with the “pull weight” screw just barely threaded. I haven’t put a stiffer firing pin spring in the bolt, although I do have the cocking indicator from Pete’s. I’ll mess with the travel screws and se if that makes any difference. I really don’t want what I’d consider a “sloppy” trigger with there being a lot of pre or over travel. I’ll also try polishing internals. Might have to resort to a Timney if all else fails. Thx
The firing pin is much stronger than in the previous models (452/455) so it shouldn't get damaged, but you can still run the risk of the firing pin hitting the barrel and peening the chamber area. I have a modified firing pin that lessens that risk so I don't mind dry firing. Best practice is to probably use a snap cap. I use the yellow drywall anchors.
What size punch would you recommend to remove the trigger pin? The 1/16” looks good for size of the pin, but marginal on durability. The 3/32” starter punch is tapered, but looks like a good starting option and then switching to the 1/16” or 3/32” (if I can find a 3/32” straight punch).
Since this rifle is manufactured in Europe the exact proper tool is probably a 3mm roll pin punch, but the 3/32" is close enough. This is the set I use: amzn.to/3DgG6gx For this specific task you're going to want a roll pin punch (the tips have a little dome on them). For other jobs like removing slotted spring pins, straight punches that are flat on the top are better.
Is this considered a “trigger adjustment” with respect to the NRL22 Base class rules, or does this push this rifle into Open class? And if this is within the realm of adjustments for Base, just have far can you go? For instance, if I had a 10/22 with a stock trigger, could I rebuild that trigger assembly using BX trigger parts, but not actually replace the assembly itself? I personally find it ridiculous that I can’t replace one type of a Ruger 10/22 factory trigger with another type of a Ruger 10/22 factory trigger, especially since Ruger sells multiple versions of their 10/22 with the BX trigger.
It's kind of a grey area. My interpretation is that this is legal adjustment (spring weight) to the factory trigger. The rule states that "Safe adjustments to the factory trigger are allowed but aftermarket triggers are prohibited". This isn't an aftermarket trigger and the trigger is still safe. However, the spring isn't a factory part, so I could see the argument going the other way as well. I agree that for Ruger you should be allowed to use their BX trigger since it is a factory offering. At the end of the day this only really matters if you have a very strict match director or if you are competing at nationals where there is a technical inspection. If you make internal modifications that aren't visual then you are probably fine, but a different trigger shoe might raise some flags. What they should do is clarify the rule to include modifications but then stipulate a minimum pull weight like other NRA matches do for specific competitions/classes. For example, in smallbore silhouette hunter class there is a minimum pull weight of 2lbs, but no banning of aftermarket triggers. I think the banning of aftermarket triggers (which only came into effect this year for base class) was a big misstep and a large reason that I am not using my Ruger this year. I will ask for clarification on the rules since I most likely will attend nationals and will want to make sure I'm in compliance. I will make a video about my findings.
Thank you. I especially liked how you showed how to fine tune the travel, etc. I had my gunsmith put in my lighter spring but now that I see how easy it is I am pissed that I didn't do it myself. My pull weight is at 15 lbs so I am going to adjust based on your video. Touche.
You're welcome. Yeah, it isn't too bad, and now you know for next time!
@@CopperStarPrecision Thanks. It also looks like you upgraded your bottom metal, mag holder?
@@CopperStarPrecision Adjusted the trigger yesterday and got it down to 1 lb. even measured with my Lyman gauge. Thanks again.
Thanks for the video. I did the exact same procedure a few weeks ago, but using the YoDave spring. The original spring allowed me a pound of pull weight, and the YoDave spring brought it down to 10oz, safely (lateral movement and hitting the action will not fire). It could go down to 8oz but was unsafe (lateral and hitting will fire). One thing though, is that I installed a YoDave firing pin +10 spring and it made the trigger weight twice as heavy, cancelling the benefits of the new trigger spring, so I reverted to the original firing pin spring.
I do not know why your lightest pull weight with the YoDave spring is over a pound, it should be around 10oz maybe less, that's the general consensus on the forums among CZ shooters, as well as my results.
Keep up the good work!
Interesting. I couldn't get either of my stock triggers under 2lbs. The YoDave brought it to 1lb which I'm happy with. With mass produced factory triggers it can sometimes be luck of the draw. Maybe I could get it lower by polishing the internals, but I'm happy with where it is at currently.
@@CopperStarPrecision Didn't you put in a PP Metal Cocking Indicator and YoDave +10% Striking Spring?
Was this video made with OEM parts?
Edit: I watched your bolt upgrade video again. At the end you said the Metal Cocking Indicator doesn't work well for you with the YoDave +10% Striking Spring. I'm guessing because the Metal Cocking Indicator compresses the striking spring slightly.
@@Toimu13 Correct. I'm just using the metal cocking indicator, but not the +10% spring since the bolt close was too stiff with it installed.
Im John
Well done and much needed video . Thanks for showing that to us.
Lighting is way better this time around!
Keep em coming
Thanks, will do!
Good stuff man! I’m surprised that I see this. I’ve been in “shoot tube jail” for a few months… I’d be surprised if they don’t delete this comment. Keep up the great work!!
Thanks! I hope the hand/wrist is all better.
Great video! The most frustrating part of this process is getting the pin back in the trigger without boogering up the hole with the punch.
Very true
The screw in the triggerblade is the sear engagement screw!
Thanks for the info
Any time!
I bought 10 springs from McMaster for the same price as the YoDave single spring. I suspect that is where he buys his springs. Mine is sitting at 6oz.
McMaster Carr has a couple of springs that can work. If I ever use a base class rifle I will probably just go yo dave.
Agreed. YoDave is a simple solution.
YoDave’s kit is nice, but as you mentioned there’s other places to get a spring.
Yeah, YoDave is just a convenient option for something that you know will do the job.
I’ve got 2 YoDave springs. One will take the trigger down to 13oz safely. Wanted it lighter, so I bought the 8oz YD spring and still can’t get below 13oz consistently without losing safety. I’ve adjusted every screw several ways with no luck. Maybe I need to polish the internals? Any advice other that what I’m thinking already? This is for my 457 MTR.
As far as I know YoDave only offers one spring for ~50% reduction in pull weight. I've seen Pete's Pillars offer a 5.2lb/in and a 9.6lb/in spring so maybe those are the two you're referring to.
The adjustments I show in this video are for the crispest brake of the trigger, but it might not be the lightest. To get lighter you may need to give more "take up" by moving the trigger outwards or allow for more overtravel.
Try making all of your adjustments with the trigger pull weight screw removed (the one with the nut on it). That will probably give you the theoretical lower limit of pull weight. Then replace the screw but just until it is touching the spring.
Are you using a stronger firing pin spring? Some people report that you get a heavier pull with the stronger spring as it is increasing the contact force/friction between the sear and the firing pin. If you are, take it out and it should lower your pull weight.
Other than that, polishing the internals is probably the only other choice. make sure there are no burs on the inside of the trigger housing and when you polish make sure you're not removing material where the geometry of the trigger components is changing.
Seeing as it is a mass-produced part, you're kind of playing the trigger lottery. I've been able to get some down to 13-15 oz and others won't go lower than 19-20 oz. I have not polished any of my triggers though.
Good luck, let me know how it goes.
@ Yes, Pete’s is what I have. 🤦🏻♂️ I’ve tried with the “pull weight” screw just barely threaded. I haven’t put a stiffer firing pin spring in the bolt, although I do have the cocking indicator from Pete’s. I’ll mess with the travel screws and se if that makes any difference. I really don’t want what I’d consider a “sloppy” trigger with there being a lot of pre or over travel. I’ll also try polishing internals. Might have to resort to a Timney if all else fails. Thx
is it safe to dry fire these 457s without a plastic snap cap in there? i always grew up not dry firing rim fired actions.
The firing pin is much stronger than in the previous models (452/455) so it shouldn't get damaged, but you can still run the risk of the firing pin hitting the barrel and peening the chamber area. I have a modified firing pin that lessens that risk so I don't mind dry firing. Best practice is to probably use a snap cap. I use the yellow drywall anchors.
What size punch would you recommend to remove the trigger pin? The 1/16” looks good for size of the pin, but marginal on durability. The 3/32” starter punch is tapered, but looks like a good starting option and then switching to the 1/16” or 3/32” (if I can find a 3/32” straight punch).
Since this rifle is manufactured in Europe the exact proper tool is probably a 3mm roll pin punch, but the 3/32" is close enough. This is the set I use: amzn.to/3DgG6gx
For this specific task you're going to want a roll pin punch (the tips have a little dome on them). For other jobs like removing slotted spring pins, straight punches that are flat on the top are better.
@@CopperStarPrecision Thank you for the video and the reply.
Is this considered a “trigger adjustment” with respect to the NRL22 Base class rules, or does this push this rifle into Open class? And if this is within the realm of adjustments for Base, just have far can you go? For instance, if I had a 10/22 with a stock trigger, could I rebuild that trigger assembly using BX trigger parts, but not actually replace the assembly itself? I personally find it ridiculous that I can’t replace one type of a Ruger 10/22 factory trigger with another type of a Ruger 10/22 factory trigger, especially since Ruger sells multiple versions of their 10/22 with the BX trigger.
It's kind of a grey area. My interpretation is that this is legal adjustment (spring weight) to the factory trigger. The rule states that "Safe adjustments to the factory trigger are allowed but aftermarket triggers are prohibited". This isn't an aftermarket trigger and the trigger is still safe. However, the spring isn't a factory part, so I could see the argument going the other way as well.
I agree that for Ruger you should be allowed to use their BX trigger since it is a factory offering. At the end of the day this only really matters if you have a very strict match director or if you are competing at nationals where there is a technical inspection. If you make internal modifications that aren't visual then you are probably fine, but a different trigger shoe might raise some flags.
What they should do is clarify the rule to include modifications but then stipulate a minimum pull weight like other NRA matches do for specific competitions/classes. For example, in smallbore silhouette hunter class there is a minimum pull weight of 2lbs, but no banning of aftermarket triggers.
I think the banning of aftermarket triggers (which only came into effect this year for base class) was a big misstep and a large reason that I am not using my Ruger this year.
I will ask for clarification on the rules since I most likely will attend nationals and will want to make sure I'm in compliance. I will make a video about my findings.