To see the cars in action, check out my video here: ua-cam.com/video/t-9eqOMr_cc/v-deo.html If you are interested in the PCB I used, you can purchase them from OSHPark here: oshpark.com/shared_projects/nhkZ6OzP
I changed out all the incandescent lighting on all my coaches to LED strip lighting. Strip LED's come on a roll of 300 and are easier to work with than what you're doing. I use the tiny square full wave bridge rectifier, LED strip lights and a 3300uF capacitor for the keep alive circuit. I ordered the wrong LED's and got the bright white which is too bright for my application. So I painted each LED (about 12 per car) with yellow acrylic paint and now it looks more typical for the period I model, the Central of Georgia. I used the 12 volt LED strip lighting which can be cut apart at every 3rd LED and they already have the ballast (current limiting) resistors built in. LED strips have adhesive backing so they stick to the roofs very nicely. I also illuminated an old REA (Railway Express Agency) coach and made my own pickups out of some old copper strips I salvaged from an old computer. I just recently found a good product to assist in lighting my old Riverossi Southern Crescent Limited coaches. They're from Litchfield Station, ESU current collectors, part #50707. The trick is to cut them apart and use one for each wheel, ensuring that each one goes on the axle with the non insulated wheel and opposite for the other. One picks up the power, goes to the LED strip and returns via the other wheel, so only 2 are required per coach. You get enough to do 8 axles for $8.95 + $4.00 shipping. That's not a bad deal to illuminate a coach. Now if I can just find some interiors to go in them as I don't do the 3D printing. Cheers from eastern TN
3d printing. great for someone who is a computer code genius. and has thousands of USD to blow on testing. but for everyone of us 99% that do not have such knowledge or equipment.we get to build such the better way out of many parts. over weeks. .
Putting some white paint on the LEDs will soften the lights if they're too intense. Those LEDs look like the spotlight kind and the paint will diffuse the light.
Your trucks are plastic so that you can place the insulated wheels opposite each other in the same truck with separate wipers thereby maximiszng pickup. The next best thing i to install wipers for all wheels. Also, ditch the sheetmetal weights and install birdshot in the lower center cavity using white glue as a binder.
Very nice. I got this car too, but I am afraid top remove the upper shell. IT fits so tight... Ist there a trick to remove it without any damage? Thanks and greetings from Germany
Try holding the ends of the car and twisting opposite directions. Great to hear from Deutschland, I spent half a year there in the 80s and always wanted to return.
@@kurtstrains Thanks very much. Stay better overseas, Germany changed very badly. If you visit Hamburg, Berlin or Frankfurt, you may think you are somewhere in middle east...
I am afraid they are the same as all of mine from Athearn. I have removed and added wheel weights in their place according to NMRA weighting. however if you are using the plates for conductivity you need to rewire for that.
To see the cars in action, check out my video here:
ua-cam.com/video/t-9eqOMr_cc/v-deo.html
If you are interested in the PCB I used, you can purchase them from OSHPark here:
oshpark.com/shared_projects/nhkZ6OzP
I changed out all the incandescent lighting on all my coaches to LED strip lighting. Strip LED's come on a roll of 300 and are easier to work with than what you're doing. I use the tiny square full wave bridge rectifier, LED strip lights and a 3300uF capacitor for the keep alive circuit. I ordered the wrong LED's and got the bright white which is too bright for my application. So I painted each LED (about 12 per car) with yellow acrylic paint and now it looks more typical for the period I model, the Central of Georgia. I used the 12 volt LED strip lighting which can be cut apart at every 3rd LED and they already have the ballast (current limiting) resistors built in. LED strips have adhesive backing so they stick to the roofs very nicely.
I also illuminated an old REA (Railway Express Agency) coach and made my own pickups out of some old copper strips I salvaged from an old computer. I just recently found a good product to assist in lighting my old Riverossi Southern Crescent Limited coaches. They're from Litchfield Station, ESU current collectors, part #50707. The trick is to cut them apart and use one for each wheel, ensuring that each one goes on the axle with the non insulated wheel and opposite for the other. One picks up the power, goes to the LED strip and returns via the other wheel, so only 2 are required per coach. You get enough to do 8 axles for $8.95 + $4.00 shipping. That's not a bad deal to illuminate a coach. Now if I can just find some interiors to go in them as I don't do the 3D printing. Cheers from eastern TN
I miss the days of AFFORDABLE hobby. The industry killed itself. Great job y'all. Thanks! No wonder the youth of today plays video games.
Agree 1000%. I'm trying to help by designing 3d printable buildings and putting them free on Thingiverse:www.thingiverse.com/klakin/designs
Adding the interior is a great improvement-thanks for showing everything.
3d printing. great for someone who is a computer code genius. and has thousands of USD to blow on testing.
but for everyone of us 99% that do not have such knowledge or equipment.we get to build such the better way out of many parts. over weeks.
.
There is an electrically conductive grease that's available. It would work good around the axles. Ensure conductivity and easier rolling.
Putting some white paint on the LEDs will soften the lights if they're too intense. Those LEDs look like the spotlight kind and the paint will diffuse the light.
Your trucks are plastic so that you can place the insulated wheels opposite each other in the same truck with separate wipers thereby maximiszng pickup. The next best thing i to install wipers for all wheels. Also, ditch the sheetmetal weights and install birdshot in the lower center cavity using white glue as a binder.
I add weight to the well (shot gun pellts and glue and replace the weights for a single 50 foot car weight.
That's a good idea, you want the weight as low in the car as you can get it.
another great video
Nice video, but how do you get the shell off?
What's the link To buy the capacitors And also I hit the sub button
Looks good. Your passengers would look even better if you cut their feet off so they weren't sitting at an angle, with their knees elevated.
Any chance you could make some lights for me?
Very nice.
I got this car too, but I am afraid top remove the upper shell. IT fits so tight... Ist there a trick to remove it without any damage?
Thanks and greetings from Germany
Try holding the ends of the car and twisting opposite directions.
Great to hear from Deutschland, I spent half a year there in the 80s and always wanted to return.
@@kurtstrains Thanks very much. Stay better overseas, Germany changed very badly. If you visit Hamburg, Berlin or Frankfurt, you may think you are somewhere in middle east...
Nice♐️👍
Is it possible the one weight is upside down
I am afraid they are the same as all of mine from Athearn. I have removed and added wheel weights in their place according to NMRA weighting. however if you are using the plates for conductivity you need to rewire for that.