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How To Set Ignition Timing On Your Classic Car
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- Опубліковано 6 лип 2019
- In todays video we take you through the fitting of the m spec distributor, the basic timing setting procedure and then the use of a timing light to fine tune.
If you enjoyed todays video and want to see more of our work then you can find us on instagram @resto_nation or on facebook
#ignitiontiming #classiccar #austinhealey
nice work, I know absolutely nothing about that process, do now ,thanks
Thanks very much. This and the follow up have been so helpful on Austin Atlantic. Yep bad new jet which destroyed new seals! Drip drip...
Personally with points I prefer to run 12v light across and set that way. Thanks a million. Just setting up brand new engine I have built.
BITD, i set the timing on my MGA statically. used the hand crank (in the trunk) to set the crank to the proper (6 degrees?) degree mark on the pulley, removed the distributor cap and low-tension lead, connected a continuity light from the low-tension lead on the distributor to a 12V power source (i usually used the 12V power source coming into the coil), loosened the distributor fixing clamp and turned the distributor back and forth until the light just went out, tightened the clamp and put the cap back on. the car need not run.
i suspect a similar procedure would work on the 100/4.
Another excellent video. Question. I have a 1980’s Rover V8. I understand that old engines sometimes need different timing to the specification. How do you know when it’s right?
Thanks. They are all different. Some like standard settings and some like a little more advance. They were set up on the safe side for longevity from factory and for the fuel of the time. When you add more static advance then you also add more total advance which won’t always net you more power. It’s worth doing your research on your specific engine and set up before you start making changes.
As a minimum then get a good timing light so you can not only set static timing but monitor the advance curve as revs increase.
Very good indeed, thank you. Essential to orientate the distributor dog onto the camshaft gear, as I know to my cost.
Good helpful
Of course this only works on cars with aftermarket parts, as the original engines didn't have timing marks. You would set the timing with aTest light on the points in the distributor and then adjust it by ear after it was running.
What if you can’t get the car started to time it with the timing gun in the first place and it’s an eight cylinder?
I would be interested in how low can you get it revving? Slightly retard the ignition to 4 degrees (temporarily) with no vacuum advance. Then slowly reduce the tickover until the engine stalls. Once this happens, increase the idle screw a fraction to just before it stalls Then manually make an adjustment to the mixture until the revs raise slightly and further til the drop and set the mixture until you get pea revs while the ticker screw is where it is. Then slightly reduce the idle screw again until it conks. Yep doing this until it runs as slow as possible without stalling, Once achieved, you will have peak performance from your mixture. See how low you can get it turning over. Then go back to 6 degrees before top dead on th ignition. If it is slightly over retarded this will allow the revs to get lower and lower because as the revs slow down peak combustion needs to be later not earlier so it comes after top dead and not on or before top dead. Can you get get tickover down to 100 rpm. when you do, the silence is golden.
Impressive 😎❤️
Why does my timing mark on my 1967 Austin Healey 3000 appear to be running in counter clock wise when I Rev the engine with the timing light?
That is the strobe effect.
Is the 6 degree BTDC a static timing............
From memory it was when running. Sorry I can’t be more helpful. P.s are you THE phantom motors? As in Simon and Stuart??
@@Resto.Nation Hi, Yes Phantom Motors Bentley Specialists and its Stuart. I am very new to Austin Healey in respect of my 100/4 BN1 and thought the 6 degrees was a static timing, but please feel free to correct me. Bill Rawles recommended 16 degrees at idle.
ALL videos are made with 4 pistons engines. Why you do not show the same on an 8 PISTONS ENGINE? Please
This is the 2nd video of yours I'm watching but you keep skipping the important parts like when you rotate the dissy to close the points. You skipped the balancing SU part last video too. I'm a beginner with SU carbs so it would have been helpful to see it done. Great videos otherwise, cheers.
Thanks, have you seen my video on setting up and balancing su carbs?
Yes but I would have liked to have seen how you listen through a hose. And set/balanced the relating mixture/flow.
@@mattyb1624 I ended up buying a £40 carb synchroniser after to check my work. That would have made the job easier from the start. Might be worth investing 👍🏻
So many misunderstandings. FFS, switch the ignition on and turn the distributor until the point click. No guesswork and 9 times out of ten a timing light at idle will show you are spot on. You missed another important part, adjusting the points. This is so basic.
As usual, amateur video shots - all out of focus and great pictures of your forearm, very poor positioning of camera!
Thanks for the feedback 😎
Your hand is To big! It is not very pédagogique....
Far too coplicated.